Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:00 AM - Re: Fuel Pump Cooling Shroud (Werner Schneider)
2. 03:36 AM - Re: loading the roof (Rob Kermanj)
3. 04:25 AM - Re: Fuel Pump Cooling Shroud (Tim Olson)
4. 05:21 AM - Re: Riveting forward side skins? (John Hasbrouck)
5. 06:53 AM - Re: loading the roof (Evan and Megan Johnson)
6. 10:36 AM - Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy (Kent Jones)
7. 10:47 AM - Re: loading the roof (Bill DeRouchey)
8. 11:20 AM - Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy (David Hertner)
9. 01:57 PM - Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy ()
10. 02:16 PM - door seal (Wayne Edgerton)
11. 02:30 PM - Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy (PJ Seipel)
12. 02:55 PM - Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy (Sean Stephens)
13. 03:44 PM - AN Clocking (again) (McGANN, Ron)
14. 04:27 PM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (ddddsp1@juno.com)
15. 06:04 PM - Fuel Sender and Pro Seal (Jeff Carpenter)
16. 06:22 PM - Re: Pitch trim servo (Robert G. Wright)
17. 06:40 PM - Re: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal (Evan and Megan Johnson)
18. 06:47 PM - Re: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal (Robert G. Wright)
19. 07:39 PM - Re: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal (ddddsp1@juno.com)
20. 08:14 PM - Re: Pitch trim servo (Tim Olson)
21. 09:02 PM - Re: loading the roof (Dave)
22. 09:33 PM - Re: 'Y' for SCAT ducting (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
23. 10:10 PM - Re: Alternative turbine, anyone? (KiloPapa)
24. 10:12 PM - Re: Re: 'Y' for SCAT ducting (Tim Olson)
25. 10:18 PM - Air Vent Recommendation (Tim Olson)
26. 10:19 PM - Re: loading the roof (Tim Olson)
27. 11:27 PM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (NYTerminat@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Cooling Shroud |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
Hi Tim,
NewGlasair offers one too:
<http://www.glasairaviation.com/options/glasairoptfire.html#fuelpump>
br Werner
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I'm thinking that I may add a fuel pump cooling shroud
> some time, just because it seems like a prudent thing to do
> given the heat of the engine compartment.
> I found one at:
> http://showplanes.com/index_800.htm
>
> Does anyone know of any alternate suppliers?
>
> I just added about 4" extensions to my exhaust last night.
> Haven't flown with them yet. As many of you found at OSH,
> the older exhaust systems are shorter than the new. I figured
> I'd see if it made any noise difference, or if I can notice
> any heat difference. I don't have enough heat that
> it will be easy to tell, but if suddenly things are cooler
> then it'll be a plus. If it's quieter, that would be nice
> too, although it isn't super loud. Just more little
> things to tweak the bird closer to perfection.
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: loading the roof |
My fiberglass lip, at the outboard edges was just about completely
sanded away before it slit into the fuselage frame. Also, be sure
that you bend the tab on the forward vertical member of the fuselage
(don't know the part number) so it does not hang on the fiberglass part.
do not archive
On Aug 14, 2006, at 12:10 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> Evan,
> I just checked my canopy/cover/roof, and I'm down to close to 1/8"
> fiberglass thickness at the door jams, where the canopy fits
> between, the aluminum uprights. I believe that other builders have
> also reported that they also had to take off may more than they
> expected and more than indicated in the plans. I don't think that
> what you're describing is a significant problem.
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse/Finish/Panel
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>> OK guys...I've run into a problem. I finally committed to doing
>> the fiberglass roof and the D*@&! thing does not seem to fit. The
>> door openings in the aluminum fuselage are just a bit narrow
>> (about 3/16" tight). I have sanded the glass down to about 3/16"
>> thick at the door jams and it is still an extremely tight fit. I
>> think if I really force it I can get it in there but I will likely
>> fracture the door frame. That frame is going to get mighty flimsy
>> if I keep cutting....I have already exposed the glass laminations
>> and intend to put new epoxy in. Any suggestions?
>> Evan Johnson
>> www.evansaviationproducts.com <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com>
>> (530)247-0375
>> (530)351-1776 cell
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Cooling Shroud |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Perfect, just what I was looking for. Nicely anodized and
cheaper too. Thanks Werner!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Werner Schneider wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> NewGlasair offers one too:
>
> <http://www.glasairaviation.com/options/glasairoptfire.html#fuelpump>
>
> br Werner
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> I'm thinking that I may add a fuel pump cooling shroud
>> some time, just because it seems like a prudent thing to do
>> given the heat of the engine compartment.
>> I found one at:
>> http://showplanes.com/index_800.htm
>>
>> Does anyone know of any alternate suppliers?
>>
>> I just added about 4" extensions to my exhaust last night.
>> Haven't flown with them yet. As many of you found at OSH,
>> the older exhaust systems are shorter than the new. I figured
>> I'd see if it made any noise difference, or if I can notice
>> any heat difference. I don't have enough heat that
>> it will be easy to tell, but if suddenly things are cooler
>> then it'll be a plus. If it's quieter, that would be nice
>> too, although it isn't super loud. Just more little
>> things to tweak the bird closer to perfection.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting forward side skins? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Thanks Deems, a picture's worth a thousand words!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: loading the roof |
Ok guys, thanks for the info. I will just keep sanding on it. I sure
wont be able to do it by myself now though, its getting too thin
already. If I try to pick it up and drop it in place it will probably
break up. Those aluminum upright bits are already interfering....I will
have to grind some material off of both the alum. and the fiberglass to
get them clear of each other. Man I hate the fiberglass part.
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Kermanj
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 3:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: loading the roof
My fiberglass lip, at the outboard edges was just about completely
sanded away before it slit into the fuselage frame. Also, be sure that
you bend the tab on the forward vertical member of the fuselage (don't
know the part number) so it does not hang on the fiberglass part.
do not archive
On Aug 14, 2006, at 12:10 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Evan,
I just checked my canopy/cover/roof, and I'm down to close to 1/8"
fiberglass thickness at the door jams, where the canopy fits between,
the aluminum uprights. I believe that other builders have also reported
that they also had to take off may more than they expected and more than
indicated in the plans. I don't think that what you're describing is a
significant problem.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Finish/Panel
http://deemsrv10.com/
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
OK guys...I've run into a problem. I finally committed to doing
the fiberglass roof and the D*@&! thing does not seem to fit. The door
openings in the aluminum fuselage are just a bit narrow (about 3/16"
tight). I have sanded the glass down to about 3/16" thick at the door
jams and it is still an extremely tight fit. I think if I really force
it I can get it in there but I will likely fracture the door frame. That
frame is going to get mighty flimsy if I keep cutting....I have already
exposed the glass laminations and intend to put new epoxy in. Any
suggestions?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
<http://www.evansaviationproducts.com>
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
- The RV10-List Email Forum -
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NOTE: Msg Size Limit Now At: 1MB - 08/08/06 (was 2MB)
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Jones <kjones@bost.org>
Curtis,
Sorry the late response; I also would be interested in your proposed
hose group buy.
Thanks,
Kent C. Jones
Fort Smith, Arkansas
RV-10 # 296
(479) 478-5550
W. Curtis wrote:
> RV-10 builders nearing Firewall Forward or engine planning stage.
> Having not ordered the Firewall Forward kit yet and just planning
> ahead, I've looked at the plans and determined the following hoses are
> required for the IO-540 installation:
>
> VA-119 IE VMP HOSE (AN4, 21.5, AIR) $ 34.60
> VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE (AN4, 15.5, FUEL) $ 58.20
> VA-133 OIL PRESS HOSE (AN4, 27.25, OIL) $ 69.00
> VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE (AN6, 14.0, FUEL) $ 69.65
> VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 (AN6, 25.5, FUEL) $153.45
> VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE (AN8, 16.5, OIL) $ 66.85
> VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE (AN8, 27.0, OIL) $ 95.65
>
> I'm not sure but I think the only Van's hose that is Teflon with the
> integral firesleeve are the VA-138 and VA-189 hoses. I requested a
> quote from Aircraft Hose (http://www.aircrafthose.com) for the above
> hoses ALL Teflon with integral firesleeve except the (VA-119) MAP
> Hose. They came back with and initial price of $491 for the set. The
> Van's price for the set of hoses (not all Teflon with integral
> firesleeve) is about $545. I've asked them if they could offer a
> greater discount if we could arrange a group buy. I haven't heard back
> from them yet but wanted to get you thinking.
>
> Here are the specifics.
> Stratoflex Integral Firesleeve Hoses for RV-10
> 111-4 hose with a 300-4D fitting 21.50" Long (111001-4CR0214) (IO-540
> Man Press.)
> 124-4J hose with a 524-4CR fitting 15.50" Long (124J001-4CR0154)
> (IO-540 Fuel Press.)
> 124-4J hose with a 524-4CR fitting 27.25" Long (124J001-4CR0272)
> (IO-540 Oil Press.)
> 124-6J hose with a 524-6CR fitting 14.00" Long (124J001-6CR0140)
> (IO-540 Fuel Supply)
> 124-6J hose with a 524-6CR fitting 25.50" Long (124J001-6CR0254)
> (IO-540 Fuel Line)
> 124-8J hose with a 524-8CR fitting 16.50" Long (124J001-8CR0164) (Oil
> cooler)
> 124-8J hose with a 524-8CR fitting 27.00" Long (124J001-8CR0270) (Oil
> cooler)
>
> Hose with Integral firesleeve
> http://www.aircrafthose.com/images/pic1248j.jpg
>
> Hose with external firesleeve
> http://www.aircrafthose.com/images/pic2650c.jpg
>
> William Curtis
> http://nerv10.com/
--
Kent C. Jones
Bost, Inc./Westark Diversified
Fort Smith, Arkansas
kjones@bost.org
www.bost.org
(479) 478-5550
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: loading the roof |
I had the same problem. Some tips:
1. Grind down and taper the edges of the alum tab in the lower door corners.
2. Sand the fiberglass vertical edges to a snug fit. (may be scary thin)
3. When you do the final seating of the cabin coat the alum surfaces around the
door with a layer of T-88 or flox to provide a good "bed" for the 3 fiberglass
door edges and provide support for the thin areas. Tighten the screws just
enough to seat the cabin and let it dry. Later torque down the screws a bit more.
4. Option: Use soft rivets in place of the pop rivets. AN426A3-6 Back the pressure
on your rivet gun to about 70psi and be gentle.
Good Luck.
Bill DeRouchey
billderou@yahoo.com
flying with 11 hours
Evan and Megan Johnson <evmeg@snowcrest.net> wrote:
Ok guys, thanks for the info. I will just keep sanding on it. I sure
wont be able to do it by myself now though, its getting too thin already. If I
try to pick it up and drop it in place it will probably break up. Those aluminum
upright bits are already interfering....I will have to grind some material
off of both the alum. and the fiberglass to get them clear of each other. Man
I hate the fiberglass part.
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Kermanj
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 3:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: loading the roof
My fiberglass lip, at the outboard edges was just about completely sanded away
before it slit into the fuselage frame. Also, be sure that you bend the tab on
the forward vertical member of the fuselage (don't know the part number) so
it does not hang on the fiberglass part.
do not archive
On Aug 14, 2006, at 12:10 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Evan,
I just checked my canopy/cover/roof, and I'm down to close to 1/8" fiberglass
thickness at the door jams, where the canopy fits between, the aluminum uprights.
I believe that other builders have also reported that they also had to take
off may more than they expected and more than indicated in the plans. I don't
think that what you're describing is a significant problem.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Finish/Panel
http://deemsrv10.com/
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
OK guys...I've run into a problem. I finally committed to doing the fiberglass
roof and the D*@&! thing does not seem to fit. The door openings in the aluminum
fuselage are just a bit narrow (about 3/16" tight). I have sanded the glass
down to about 3/16" thick at the door jams and it is still an extremely tight
fit. I think if I really force it I can get it in there but I will likely
fracture the door frame. That frame is going to get mighty flimsy if I keep cutting....I
have already exposed the glass laminations and intend to put new
epoxy in. Any suggestions?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com>
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
- The RV10-List Email Forum -
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NOTE: Msg Size Limit Now At: 1MB - 08/08/06 (was 2MB)
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- List Contribution Web Site -
Thank you for your generous support!
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =========================via the Web href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com =========================List Wiki! href="http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com ========================= href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ====================================
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy |
I am interested as well.
Dave Hertner
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <seanblair@adelphia.net>
Add me to the list too, please.
Sean Blair
#40225
do not archive
---- David Hertner <effectus@rogers.com> wrote:
> I am interested as well.
>
> Dave Hertner
>
> do not archive
Message 10
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|
Someone recently made a posting that said there was a new door seal out
and Alex D was going to carry them. I've tried to find this post but to
no avail. Could who ever made that post tell me about it again please?
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Engine hung - jumping around a lot
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
Add me to the list.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
> *
> *
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com>
Add me to the list of people wishing they were at the point of needing
them. :)
-Sean #40303 (kit in Illinois, me in Arizona, bummer)
no not archive
PJ Seipel wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
>
> Add me to the list.
>
> PJ Seipel
> RV-10 #40032
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | AN Clocking (again) |
All,
Rick Sked indicated that the body of my post may not have been received
by everyone, so here's another try. (BTW has anyone else had problems
posting to the list recently??)
A number of sections require AN fluid fittings (eg elbows) to be
installed (clocked) at a particular angle (eg the fuel line connections
at the fuel valve). When the AN fitting is installed, it naturally
'bottoms out' into the part (eg fuel valve) and has a natural clocked
position when it is tight.
To achieve a particular clocking, the fitting can't always be 'bottomed
out' and hence tight. How do you achieve both correct clocking and a
fit tight enough to prevent leaks? Does fuel lube etc provide a useful
seal??
TIA
Ron
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: AN Clocking (again) |
Fuel Lube works great..........only Duck tape is used more often...:)
Just a dap of fuel lube on those fittings and you will sleep easy.
Dean
40449
Motor waiting to be mounted
________________________________________________________________________
Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!
<html><P>Fuel Lube works great..........only Duck tape is used more ofte
n...:) Just a dap of fuel lube
on those fittings and you will sleep easy.</P>
<P>Dean</P>
<P>40449</P>
<P>Motor waiting to be mounted</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!<br>
Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Fuel Sender and Pro Seal |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Is Pro Seal used between the tank sender gasket and outside flange of
the tank... or only on the inside side of the tank flange and sender
pass through?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Finishing up the tanks and unpacking the fuse...
Message 16
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| Subject: | Pitch trim servo |
Looking back through the archives:
I also have one of the newer Pitch servos. I'm wondering if anyone's seen
how far to screw in the rod end before tightening the jamnut (i.e. length
from center of bearing to end of 'arm'). Tru-track's online servo install
doc's don't have any of this info for the newer servo. It probably doesn't
matter but usually there are dimensions for these silly control surface
actuation things!
Rob Wright
#392 Wings & misc.
Vacation this week working on the plane!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Sipp
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pitch trim servo
John,
I just installed mine the other night. The TruTrak web site has the
dimensions to locate the bellcrank arm attach hole. They said to look at
the 7 or 9 installation document as they are the same on all the airplanes.
Oh and when replacing the servo arm with the torque enhancer don't remove
the little screw on the servo that is off set from the center one that is a
shear screw and will break if removed. I have already tested this feature.
Dick Sipp
40065
----- Original Message -----
From: John <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> Testement
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 10:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitch trim servo
Anyone have instructions or photos of the new TruTrak pitch trim servo
installation (with the roller arm thingy)? I only got a couple of photos and
no info on where to drill the bellcrank arm, etc.
Take care,
John
_________________________________
John Testement
Human Potential Project
Phone: 804-303-1927
Email: john.testement@humanpotentialproject.com
3204 Long Meadow Cir.
Glen Allen, VA 23059
--
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
throw the gasket in the garbage and just use the sealant....I know this one
:)
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 6:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> Is Pro Seal used between the tank sender gasket and outside flange of
> the tank... or only on the inside side of the tank flange and sender
> pass through?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Finishing up the tanks and unpacking the fuse...
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Fuel Sender and Pro Seal |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
I coated the mating surfaces of the gasket/aluminum. I saw that as where
gaps would happen. Don't tighten your screws too tight after you smear the
sealant and install it, you might snap a screw off in the nutplate....
Rob Wright
#392
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
throw the gasket in the garbage and just use the sealant....I know this one
:)
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 6:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> Is Pro Seal used between the tank sender gasket and outside flange of
> the tank... or only on the inside side of the tank flange and sender
> pass through?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Finishing up the tanks and unpacking the fuse...
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal |
If you proseal the sender in ....HOW will you remove it to replace it or
repair it someday? Might consider making a gasket out of cork material
and put Fuel Lube on it. That would be a better fix.
IMHO
Dean 40449
________________________________________________________________________
Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!
<html><P>If you proseal the sender in ....HOW will you remove it to repl
ace it or repair it someday? Might consider making a gasket out of
cork material and put Fuel Lube on it. That would be a better fix
.</P>
<P>IMHO</P>
<P>Dean 40449</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
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Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List</a>
http://forums.matronics.com</a>
http://wiki.matronics.com</a>
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Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch trim servo |
Here's the short answer for that question....
Get the new torque enhancer from Trutrak. I can't say that the
original servo was awful on torque, but I did experience something
that felt like slipping. I just got the newest torque enhancer
design last week. It seemed to do better than the first one.
It's a funky design, but I can see why it would give more torque.
Photos attached (these aren't mine but from TruTrak that I used
to install).
If you get one, doublecheck that the allen setscrews are tight
before you install it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> Looking back through the archives:
>
>
>
> I also have one of the newer Pitch servos. Im wondering if anyones
> seen how far to screw in the rod end before tightening the jamnut (i.e.
> length from center of bearing to end of arm). Tru-tracks online
> servo install docs dont have any of this info for the newer servo. It
> probably doesnt matter but usually there are dimensions for these silly
> control surface actuation things!
>
>
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392 Wings & misc.
>
> Vacation this week working on the plane!
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Richard Sipp
> *Sent:* Monday, May 01, 2006 8:54 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Pitch trim servo
>
>
>
> John,
>
>
>
> I just installed mine the other night. The TruTrak web site has the
> dimensions to locate the bellcrank arm attach hole. They said to look
> at the 7 or 9 installation document as they are the same on all the
> airplanes. Oh and when replacing the servo arm with the torque enhancer
> don't remove the little screw on the servo that is off set from the
> center one that is a shear screw and will break if removed. I have
> already tested this feature.
>
>
>
> Dick Sipp
>
> 40065
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* John Testement <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 30, 2006 10:48 PM
>
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Pitch trim servo
>
>
>
> Anyone have instructions or photos of the new TruTrak pitch trim
> servo installation (with the roller arm thingy)? I only got a couple
> of photos and no info on where to drill the bellcrank arm, etc.
>
>
>
> Take care,
> John
> _________________________________
> John Testement
> Human Potential Project
>
> Phone: 804-303-1927
> Email: john.testement@humanpotentialproject.com
> <mailto:john.testement@humanpotentialproject.com>
> 3204 Long Meadow Cir.
> Glen Allen, VA 23059
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> 4/28/2006
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 21
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| Subject: | loading the roof |
Evan,
I know a RV-10 builder that cut the cabin top in the middle of the bars at
the bottom of the door opening. I think he just took out about an 1/8", a
saw blade thickness. That allowed the uprights to flex into the door
opening. The seems to be a good solution as long as it doesn't affect the
fit of the door. You could splice the cut with fiberglass but since it is
screwed down anyway, I doubt it would make much difference. The cut is also
in an area that is least needed for structure. That area of the cabin top
primarily serves the purpose of a molding for the door. I haven't gotten
that far. When I do that may be my approach.
Best regards,
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 2:53 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: loading the roof
OK guys...I've run into a problem. I finally committed to doing the
fiberglass roof and the D*@&! thing does not seem to fit. The door openings
in the aluminum fuselage are just a bit narrow (about 3/16" tight). I have
sanded the glass down to about 3/16" thick at the door jams and it is still
an extremely tight fit. I think if I really force it I can get it in there
but I will likely fracture the door frame. That frame is going to get mighty
flimsy if I keep cutting....I have already exposed the glass laminations
and intend to put new epoxy in. Any suggestions?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
Message 22
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| Subject: | RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting |
Where was a source for a ducting 'Y' splitter for use to split airflow
from the engine baffles to direct towards the heater boxes (reference
tunnel temps)
Can't seem to find it at Spruce, but you never know what they are going
to call some stuff . . .
TDT
40025
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative turbine, anyone? |
And you talk about wasting bandwidth?
Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 8:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternative turbine, anyone?
Hey, I've got a bridge for sale, too! Any takers?
NY-Brooklyn-Bridge
TDT
Do not archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think the 2" Y tube is: 08-04100
I think I myself will try to find a way to get a 2" tube with a
1" or 1.25" branch off it instead. I hate to think that I'd be
bypassing a huge percentage of the air, because I don't want
the heat muff to get too hot. If anyone knows a place that welds
aluminum things like the Y tube, pass the info on...I'd like
to get a custom pair of Y's done. One to feed a fuel pump
cooling shroud, and one to do additional blast cooling.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> Where was a source for a ducting 'Y' splitter for use to split airflow from the
engine baffles to direct towards the heater boxes (reference tunnel temps)
>
> Can't seem to find it at Spruce, but you never know what they are going to call
some stuff . . .
>
> TDT
> 40025
Message 25
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| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
For people who are flying or almost flying, and still have a budget
left, I have a suggestion...
Vic tipped me off at OSH that the large aluminum eyeball vents
provide much more air and leak less than the cheap plastic ones.
I originally used the $17ea Van's black plastic vents. They worked
OK. They didn't stay open when you wanted them open, and they didn't
close as tightly. Adjusting the flow was tough at best. The flow
seemed OK.
This weekend I put on the aluminum vents, VENT SV-6 BLACK from
Vans. $145ea. These work very nicely, provide more air, far better
air control, and a better seal. Surprising, but they were worth it,
especially in the summer. The deal was sold for me to buy them when
on a high-speed descent last week, you could hear the sound of
air rushing in, and all of a sudden my vent popped shut. The
sudden noise change startled me for a millisecond. It was then that
I decided to invest in better vents.
I found these sites on the net..and from what I've been told, Van's
is selling the "airkit" vents, which are supposed to be much nicer
than the affordablepanels vents...but this is just what I was told.
http://www.airkitllc.com/products.php
http://www.affordablepanels.com/Airvents.html
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1154458795-156-660&browse=heatvent&product=sv-6
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: loading the roof |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Just to verify what Dave said, I remember hearing from someone at Van's
that the fiberglass below the screws is non-structural, so that
should be fine on the door bottom area.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Dave wrote:
> Evan,
> I know a RV-10 builder that cut the cabin top in the middle of the bars
> at the bottom of the door opening. I think he just took out about an
> 1/8", a saw blade thickness. That allowed the uprights to flex into the
> door opening. The seems to be a good solution as long as it doesn't
> affect the fit of the door. You could splice the cut with fiberglass
> but since it is screwed down anyway, I doubt it would make much
> difference. The cut is also in an area that is least needed for
> structure. That area of the cabin top primarily serves the purpose of a
> molding for the door. I haven't gotten that far. When I do that may be
> my approach.
> Best regards,
> Dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Evan and
> Megan Johnson
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 13, 2006 2:53 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: loading the roof
>
> OK guys...I've run into a problem. I finally committed to doing the
> fiberglass roof and the D*@&! thing does not seem to fit. The door
> openings in the aluminum fuselage are just a bit narrow (about 3/16"
> tight). I have sanded the glass down to about 3/16" thick at the
> door jams and it is still an extremely tight fit. I think if I
> really force it I can get it in there but I will likely fracture the
> door frame. That frame is going to get mighty flimsy if I keep
> cutting....I have already exposed the glass laminations and intend
> to put new epoxy in. Any suggestions?
> Evan Johnson
> www.evansaviationproducts.com <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com>
> (530)247-0375
> (530)351-1776 cell
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: AN Clocking (again) |
Where can you get "fuel lube?
In a message dated 8/14/2006 9:35:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ddddsp1@juno.com writes:
Fuel Lube works great..........only Duck tape is used more often...:)
Just a dap of fuel lube on those fittings and you will sleep easy.
Dean
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