Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:29 AM - Re: Re: 'Y' for SCAT ducting (Russell Daves)
2. 12:37 AM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (Russell Daves)
3. 01:33 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (John Dunne)
4. 01:34 AM - Re: loading the roof (RAS)
5. 03:32 AM - Re: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal (Rob Kermanj)
6. 03:35 AM - Re: Re: 'Y' for SCAT ducting (Rob Kermanj)
7. 03:41 AM - Re: Re: 'Y' for SCAT ducting (Rob Kermanj)
8. 05:42 AM - Re: door seal (was Overhead Console) (Larry Rosen)
9. 06:26 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (Jesse Saint)
10. 06:34 AM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (Jesse Saint)
11. 06:36 AM - Re: loading the roof (Jesse Saint)
12. 06:39 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (NYTerminat@aol.com)
13. 06:41 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (Tim Olson)
14. 06:48 AM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (ddddsp1@juno.com)
15. 06:56 AM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (Belue, Kevin)
16. 07:18 AM - Re: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal (Evan and Megan Johnson)
17. 07:25 AM - fuel lube (David McNeill)
18. 07:27 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (Jesse Saint)
19. 07:35 AM - Re: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal (Robert G. Wright)
20. 07:42 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (Phillips, Jack)
21. 07:46 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (Rick)
22. 08:00 AM - Re: Alternative turbine, anyone? (John Gonzalez)
23. 08:47 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (Jerry Grimmonpre)
24. 09:14 AM - Re: fuel lube (NYTerminat@aol.com)
25. 09:17 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (NYTerminat@AOL.COM)
26. 09:24 AM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (SteinAir, Inc.)
27. 09:27 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (linn Walters)
28. 09:57 AM - Re: fuel lube (Phillips, Jack)
29. 10:39 AM - Re: fuel lube (David McNeill)
30. 10:47 AM - Re: Serious Front Axle Maintenance Issue on the RV-10 (KiloPapa)
31. 10:51 AM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
32. 10:55 AM - Re: Re: 'Y' for SCAT ducting (Russell Daves)
33. 10:59 AM - Door seal adhesive (John Testement)
34. 11:11 AM - New to the list (L Aune)
35. 11:11 AM - Re: Serious Front Axle Maintenance Issue on the RV-10 (KiloPapa)
36. 11:49 AM - Re: Door seal adhesive (Tim Olson)
37. 11:58 AM - Re: Re: 'Y' for SCAT ducting (Mark Ritter)
38. 12:02 PM - Re: Door seal adhesive (Jesse Saint)
39. 12:28 PM - Re: Re: 'Y' for SCAT ducting (Mark Ritter)
40. 01:32 PM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
41. 02:11 PM - Re: fuel lube (NYTerminat@aol.com)
42. 02:27 PM - Re: Door seal adhesive (David McNeill)
43. 03:33 PM - Re: Re: 'Y' for SCAT ducting (Russell Daves)
44. 03:46 PM - spray ceramic heat barrier (Chris Johnston)
45. 03:59 PM - Re: Door seal adhesive (John Testement)
46. 04:03 PM - Re: AN Clocking (again) (McGANN, Ron)
47. 04:47 PM - Re: spray ceramic heat barrier (Pascal)
48. 04:56 PM - Onesixright (RV10Aviator)
49. 07:05 PM - Lubricating UHMW Blocks (McGANN, Ron)
50. 07:09 PM - Re: Nose Wheel Valve Clearance Solution (KiloPapa)
51. 07:40 PM - Re: Lubricating UHMW Blocks (Jesse Saint)
52. 07:44 PM - Re: Door seal adhesive (Jesse Saint)
53. 07:48 PM - Re: Lubricating UHMW Blocks (Marcus Cooper)
54. 07:48 PM - Re: Window overspray (KiloPapa)
55. 08:03 PM - Insurance for first flight (Marcus Cooper)
56. 09:42 PM - Re: Lubricating UHMW Blocks (John Dunne)
57. 10:11 PM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (Sam Marlow)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
I obtained mine from Van's. Item number VENT DL-Y at $19.00. I attached it
directly to the riveted on scat tube flange at the back of the baffle
directing the Y down towards the heater boxes and the primary run down to
the right side heat muff.
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 11:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
Where was a source for a ducting 'Y' splitter for use to split airflow from
the engine baffles to direct towards the heater boxes (reference tunnel
temps)
Can't seem to find it at Spruce, but you never know what they are going to
call some stuff . . .
TDT
40025
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Air Vent Recommendation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
I second Tim's recommendation. I got mine from Affordable Panels for
$117.50 each plus $8.45 shipping. I got the black ones and painted the
screws black and they look and work great.
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> For people who are flying or almost flying, and still have a budget
> left, I have a suggestion...
> Vic tipped me off at OSH that the large aluminum eyeball vents
> provide much more air and leak less than the cheap plastic ones.
> I originally used the $17ea Van's black plastic vents. They worked
> OK. They didn't stay open when you wanted them open, and they didn't
> close as tightly. Adjusting the flow was tough at best. The flow
> seemed OK.
>
> This weekend I put on the aluminum vents, VENT SV-6 BLACK from
> Vans. $145ea. These work very nicely, provide more air, far better
> air control, and a better seal. Surprising, but they were worth it,
> especially in the summer. The deal was sold for me to buy them when
> on a high-speed descent last week, you could hear the sound of
> air rushing in, and all of a sudden my vent popped shut. The
> sudden noise change startled me for a millisecond. It was then that
> I decided to invest in better vents.
>
> I found these sites on the net..and from what I've been told, Van's
> is selling the "airkit" vents, which are supposed to be much nicer
> than the affordablepanels vents...but this is just what I was told.
>
> http://www.airkitllc.com/products.php
> http://www.affordablepanels.com/Airvents.html
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1154458795-156-660&browse=heatvent&product=sv-6
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | AN Clocking (again) |
No-ones really had a shot at answering Ron's question in full.
I for one, guilty of not seeking expert advice, reached a "tight" position
with my elbow connections and then pushed on until the correct clock angle
was reached. In my mind this was less than satisfactory (first clue) but I
then went with an Andair valve which has re-locatable ports and so this
problem didn't come up again.
I suspect there are certain situations (such as in questions like this)
where it feels like it will pay to keep quiet, hoping some more
knowledgeable types chime in.
A lot of us lurking on this list have reached or passed this point. Surely
not all builders have magically had their AN elbow fittings, end up in the
correct spot? What did we all do? Whose advice did we seek? Is there a
torque figure for elbow pipe threads? Is it acceptable to push on past the
"damn tight" position?
Come on guys, the best part of this list is the "nuts and bolts" questions
and answers.
One of the best benefits of this list is LOTS of opinions. It makes for a
huge technical advice pool and makes us part of a fantastic educational
experience worldwide.
I hate to think Ron is sitting there in front of his -10, waiting for this
vital piece of information and being forced to drink beer after beer until
someone answers his question directly!
:-)
John 40315
Do not archive (not worth archiving because it still doesn't answer Ron's
question)
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, 15 August 2006 8:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
All,
Rick Sked indicated that the body of my post may not have been received by
everyone, so here's another try. (BTW has anyone else had problems posting
to the list recently??)
A number of sections require AN fluid fittings (eg elbows) to be installed
(clocked) at a particular angle (eg the fuel line connections at the fuel
valve). When the AN fitting is installed, it naturally 'bottoms out' into
the part (eg fuel valve) and has a natural clocked position when it is
tight.
To achieve a particular clocking, the fitting can't always be 'bottomed out'
and hence tight. How do you achieve both correct clocking and a fit tight
enough to prevent leaks? Does fuel lube etc provide a useful seal??
TIA
Ron
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: loading the roof |
Hi Evan,
I found that position of the threstles(saw horses) can make quite a
difference to the gap between the aluminum posts. I have no horses
further forward than the mainspar, have another under the rearspar and
one under the tailpost. The roof fit has to be done before the fuse goes
on the gear.
m
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal |
That's right! Throw the gasket in the garbage and just use the
sealant. Use proseal everywhere! On the screw threads, over the
screw heads and any other place you might suspect a leak. No kidding.
On Aug 14, 2006, at 9:42 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> throw the gasket in the garbage and just use the sealant....I know
> this one
> :)
> Evan Johnson
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
> (530)247-0375
> (530)351-1776 cell
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff@westcottpress.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 6:03 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
>> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>
>> Is Pro Seal used between the tank sender gasket and outside flange of
>> the tank... or only on the inside side of the tank flange and sender
>> pass through?
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>> Finishing up the tanks and unpacking the fuse...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting |
At Vans. I am expecting mine today.
Do not archive.
On Aug 15, 2006, at 12:28 AM, Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
> Where was a source for a ducting 'Y' splitter for use to split
> airflow from the engine baffles to direct towards the heater boxes
> (reference tunnel temps)
>
> Can't seem to find it at Spruce, but you never know what they are
> going to call some stuff . . .
>
> TDT
> 40025
> <winmail.dat>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting |
Did you do this on both vents? What is the result and how hot is it
where you normally fly?
Do not archive
On Aug 15, 2006, at 3:28 AM, Russell Daves wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>
> I obtained mine from Van's. Item number VENT DL-Y at $19.00. I
> attached it directly to the riveted on scat tube flange at the back
> of the baffle directing the Y down towards the heater boxes and the
> primary run down to the right side heat muff.
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV Flying
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 11:28 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>
>
> Where was a source for a ducting 'Y' splitter for use to split
> airflow from the engine baffles to direct towards the heater boxes
> (reference tunnel temps)
>
> Can't seem to find it at Spruce, but you never know what they are
> going to call some stuff . . .
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: door seal (was Overhead Console) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Wayne,
Is this what you are looking for. If you get additional information
pass it along to the group
Larry Rosen
W. Curtis wrote:
>
> http://aircraftdoorseals.com
>
>
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net
> <mailto:deemsdavis@cox.net>>
> >Here's a couple of pics.
> >
> >http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202006/slides/DSC03085.html
> >
> >I recall listening to Jim Erskin talking to Mike Sausen, Jim said he
> >paid $85 for the door seal, but I didn't catch where he got it. Mike do
> >you recall?
> >
> >Deems Davis # 406
> >Fuse/Finishing/Panel
> >http://deemsrv10.com/
> >
> >Jesse Saint wrote:
> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org
> <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>>
> >>
> >>Does anybody have any good detailed pictures of what Debbie did with her
> >>door seals?
> >
>
>
> William Curtis
> http://nerv10.com/
Message 9
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| Subject: | AN Clocking (again) |
I will try to answer in a way that has been recommended and has worked.
When we first started, we would take the fittings to the torque value,
then
clock them from there. Yes, this takes a TON of pressure sometimes,
which
is not good. In fact, we had some leak when this happened. It was
recommended by a very experience A&P that we use some kind of thread
sealer,
Fuel/Seal Lube works great, then just run them on as tight as we can get
them by hand, then clock them from there. We did this on two oil cooler
leaks where we had followed the original method and had gotten leaks,
and no
more leaks. If there is no clocking, he said to get it as tight as you
can
by hand, then take it one or two flats (1/6 or 2/6 turn) and leave it.
It
should not =93naturally bottom out=94 in normal conditions, because the
pipe
threads are tapered so the further you go in, the tighter it should get,
unlike a bolt. You should start the lube back at least one thread from
the
end to make sure you don=92t get any in the opening, and thus into your
system. Also, don=92t use any lube on the flare fittings, just the pipe
threads.
Hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 6:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
All,
Rick Sked indicated that the body of my post may not have been received
by
everyone, so here's another try. (BTW has anyone else had problems
posting
to the list recently??)
A number of sections require AN fluid fittings (eg elbows) to be
installed
(clocked) at a particular angle (eg the fuel line connections at the
fuel
valve). When the AN fitting is installed, it naturally 'bottoms out'
into
the part (eg fuel valve) and has a natural clocked position when it is
tight.
To achieve a particular clocking, the fitting can't always be 'bottomed
out'
and hence tight. How do you achieve both correct clocking and a fit
tight
enough to prevent leaks? Does fuel lube etc provide a useful seal??
TIA
Ron
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8/14/2006
--
8/14/2006
Message 10
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| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
I third this nomination. The cheap ones are terrible. They don't stay
where you put them, and when it is cold outside, you really want it to seal,
which the cheap ones don't. We got the black ones and they are part plastic
and part aluminum, but they seal great and work great. This is definitely
worth the investment.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 3:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
I second Tim's recommendation. I got mine from Affordable Panels for
$117.50 each plus $8.45 shipping. I got the black ones and painted the
screws black and they look and work great.
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> For people who are flying or almost flying, and still have a budget
> left, I have a suggestion...
> Vic tipped me off at OSH that the large aluminum eyeball vents
> provide much more air and leak less than the cheap plastic ones.
> I originally used the $17ea Van's black plastic vents. They worked
> OK. They didn't stay open when you wanted them open, and they didn't
> close as tightly. Adjusting the flow was tough at best. The flow
> seemed OK.
>
> This weekend I put on the aluminum vents, VENT SV-6 BLACK from
> Vans. $145ea. These work very nicely, provide more air, far better
> air control, and a better seal. Surprising, but they were worth it,
> especially in the summer. The deal was sold for me to buy them when
> on a high-speed descent last week, you could hear the sound of
> air rushing in, and all of a sudden my vent popped shut. The
> sudden noise change startled me for a millisecond. It was then that
> I decided to invest in better vents.
>
> I found these sites on the net..and from what I've been told, Van's
> is selling the "airkit" vents, which are supposed to be much nicer
> than the affordablepanels vents...but this is just what I was told.
>
> http://www.airkitllc.com/products.php
> http://www.affordablepanels.com/Airvents.html
>
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1154458795-156-660&bro
wse=heatvent&product=sv-6
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
--
Message 11
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| Subject: | loading the roof |
I disagree with the gear comment, because it worked great for us after
it
was on the gear (gearlegs, at least, with no weight on the nose gear),
but I
wouldn=92t be surprised if the position of your support makes a
difference.
There is more flex in the frame before the cabin top goes on than after.
This would be worth a try, I think.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RAS
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 4:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: loading the roof
Hi Evan,
I found that position of the threstles(saw horses) can make quite a
difference to the gap between the aluminum posts. I have no horses
further
forward than the mainspar, have another under the rearspar and one under
the
tailpost. The roof fit has to be done before the fuse goes on the gear.
m
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==========
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ator?RV10-List
=========================
==========
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=========================
==========
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=========================
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==========
8/14/2006
--
8/14/2006
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: AN Clocking (again) |
Jessie
Where did you get the Fuel/Seal lube?
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 9:30:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jesse@itecusa.org writes:
will try to answer in a way that has been recommended and has worked. When
we first started, we would take the fittings to the torque value, then clock
them from there. Yes, this takes a TON of pressure sometimes, which is not
good. In fact, we had some leak when this happened. It was recommended by a
very experience A&P that we use some kind of thread sealer, Fuel/Seal Lube
works great, then just run them on as tight as we can get them by hand, then
clock them from there. We did this on two oil cooler
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: AN Clocking (again) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'm sorry, I chickened out on this one because I didn't want to
give incorrect info. I'll give my take on it, but for those
who want to argue one way or the other, I'm not going to
get into that.
On all the fasteners, there are acceptable torque figures.
I used them all over the place, and constantly referred to
the charts for the proper torque. On the AN fittings, I did
not. I know (*think*) that there exists a proper torque spec,
or perhaps something simple like "3/4 turn past finger tight"
or something of that nature. To be honest, I didn't bother
to check. I've seen it debated in the past, and seen people
like Dan Checkoway just use the "Guttentight" method. My
background experience includes fairly extensive past in
fittings of all sorts, from fluids to low and high pressure
gasses, including extreme toxics and flammables used in the
semiconductor industry. Never have I found a completely
reliable way to get things perfect that you can read on paper.
I've wrecked a couple of fittings (not on the plane) in the past
by over torquing, and I've had a couple leak from under torquing.
99.9% of the time though, it just isn't that tough....you
snug until you know it isn't going to loosen or leak. It's
just something you get the feel for...and doing HP air lines,
you get a feel quickly because you hear it leak if you're wrong.
So on all of mine, I just snugged them up real good. So no,
I have no precise answer. My personal opinion is that I'd
have a hard time trusting a real spec anyway, but I know
there are those who will differ on that opinion.
As for fuel lube, I never used it. I don't know perhaps what
I am missing, but I never saw the need. I used liquid teflon
tape on the NPT (pipe thread, Threaded, NOT the flared connection)
of the fittings, but absolutely nothing on the flared end
or the nut associated with it. Here again, I know there will
be people who will disagree or think something like fuel
lube is good.
For what it's worth, I have had only 2 leaks on my RV-10.
One was the large NPT end of the fitting that goes into
the oil cooler. It was the very tiniest amount of seepage,
probably only 10 drops in 10 hours. I took it out and
resealed it and torqued it down one more turn...this
was tough because those huge fittings that need to be
clocked at a certain angle don't give you much opportunity
for only slightly tightening things. The other leak
was cause by myself, before the first flight. I had
played with that main fuel hose orientation to the fuel
servo (you have to flip the hose backwards from plans for
the new exhaust systems), and never managed to go even
fully finger-tight on one end. That's what assistants
are for though, as I had people watch the first time
that I hit the boost pump, and it was caught before the
engine ever turned over. Do yourself a favor and check
for leaks before starting.
So sorry if I didn't post any answer...but as you can tell,
it's not really a torque spec that I can give.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Dunne wrote:
> No-ones really had a shot at answering Rons question in full.
>
> I for one, guilty of not seeking expert advice, reached a tight
> position with my elbow connections and then pushed on until the correct
> clock angle was reached. In my mind this was less than satisfactory
> (first clue) but I then went with an Andair valve which has re-locatable
> ports and so this problem didnt come up again.
>
> I suspect there are certain situations (such as in questions like this)
> where it feels like it will pay to keep quiet, hoping some more
> knowledgeable types chime in.
>
> A lot of us lurking on this list have reached or passed this point.
> Surely not all builders have magically had their AN elbow fittings, end
> up in the correct spot? What did we all do? Whose advice did we seek? Is
> there a torque figure for elbow pipe threads? Is it acceptable to push
> on past the damn tight position?
>
> Come on guys, the best part of this list is the nuts and bolts
> questions and answers.
>
> One of the best benefits of this list is LOTS of opinions. It makes for
> a huge technical advice pool and makes us part of a fantastic
> educational experience worldwide.
>
> I hate to think Ron is sitting there in front of his -10, waiting for
> this vital piece of information and being forced to drink beer after
> beer until someone answers his question directly!
>
> :-)
>
> John 40315
>
> Do not archive (not worth archiving because it still doesnt answer
> Rons question)
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *McGANN, Ron
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 15 August 2006 8:43 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
>
>
>
> All,
>
> Rick Sked indicated that the body of my post may not have been received
> by everyone, so here's another try. (BTW has anyone else had problems
> posting to the list recently??)
>
> A number of sections require AN fluid fittings (eg elbows) to be
> installed (clocked) at a particular angle (eg the fuel line connections
> at the fuel valve). When the AN fitting is installed, it naturally
> 'bottoms out' into the part (eg fuel valve) and has a natural clocked
> position when it is tight.
>
>
> To achieve a particular clocking, the fitting can't always be 'bottomed
> out' and hence tight. How do you achieve both correct clocking and a
> fit tight enough to prevent leaks? Does fuel lube etc provide a useful
> seal??
>
> TIA
> Ron
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * - The RV10-List Email Forum -*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> * - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -*
>
> *--> http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -*
>
> *--> http://wiki.matronics.com*
>
> * - List Contribution Web Site -*
>
> * -Matt Dralle, List Admin.*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Air Vent Recommendation |
Another idea.............We bought the smaller aluminum vents from ACS t
hat come in grey or black ($56). Made a Y out of fiberglass and attache
d it to the NACA Duct so we have 2 vents per side and more air control i
n more directions. If you do not want LEAKY vents..........plan to pay
more than what the plastic ones sell for. I know one person left the ch
eap vents off.........uses a big CORK to plug the hole and takes the cor
k out when he wants air........it is an "all or nothing vent" system.
Go YUGO EFIS!!!
Dean 40449
________________________________________________________________________
<html><P>Another idea.............We bought the smaller aluminum vents f
rom ACS that come in grey or black ($56). Made a Y out of fibergla
ss and attached it to the NACA Duct so we have 2 vents per side and more
air control in more directions. If you do not want LEAKY vents...
.......plan to pay more than what the plastic ones sell for. I kno
w one person left the cheap vents off.........uses a big CORK to plug th
e hole and takes the cork out when he wants air........it is an "all or
nothing vent" system.</P>
<P>Go YUGO EFIS!!!</P>
<P>Dean 40449</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Belue, Kevin" <KBelue@DRS-TEM.com>
Yes, the metal vents are much better. If you look around, sometimes you can
find the metal vents "like new" for a lot less. I paid $20 each for the
vents on my first plane. I found some for the RV10 that were $40 each in new
condition.
Kevin D. Belue
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 8:33 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> I third this nomination. The cheap ones are terrible. They don't stay
> where you put them, and when it is cold outside, you really want it to
seal,
> which the cheap ones don't. We got the black ones and they are part
plastic
> and part aluminum, but they seal great and work great. This is definitely
> worth the investment.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal |
The sender is easy to get loose...heavy material and not so much surface
area for the sealant to hold onto. Do not however do the same to the
cork gasket that goes between the inspection plate and the tank rib.
That can be a bear to get loose when prosealed on.
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: ddddsp1@juno.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal
If you proseal the sender in ....HOW will you remove it to replace it
or repair it someday? Might consider making a gasket out of cork
material and put Fuel Lube on it. That would be a better fix.
IMHO
Dean 40449
________________________________________________________________________
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=========================
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Message 17
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A lifetime supply is available in a can from Aircraft Spruce. One pound
will last you through all the aircraft you will ever build.
Message 18
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| Subject: | AN Clocking (again) |
Don=92t remember, but the auto parts store probably has it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
NYTerminat@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
Jessie
Where did you get the Fuel/Seal lube?
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 9:30:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jesse@itecusa.org writes:
will try to answer in a way that has been recommended and has worked.
When
we first started, we would take the fittings to the torque value, then
clock
them from there. Yes, this takes a TON of pressure sometimes, which is
not
good. In fact, we had some leak when this happened. It was recommended
by
a very experience A&P that we use some kind of thread sealer, Fuel/Seal
Lube
works great, then just run them on as tight as we can get them by hand,
then
clock them from there. We did this on two oil cooler
=========================
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vig
ator?RV10-List
=========================
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=========================
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ion
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8/14/2006
--
8/14/2006
Message 19
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| Subject: | Fuel Sender and Pro Seal |
When I sent my recommendation I thought we all had the same gasket sent,
apparently we didn't. My gasket was a large rubber donut that I prosealed
liberally against the tank side. I probably would have thrown a cork gasket
away as well.
Rob Wright
#392
Wings
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal
The sender is easy to get loose...heavy material and not so much surface
area for the sealant to hold onto. Do not however do the same to the cork
gasket that goes between the inspection plate and the tank rib. That can be
a bear to get loose when prosealed on.
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Sender and Pro Seal
If you proseal the sender in ....HOW will you remove it to replace it or
repair it someday? Might consider making a gasket out of cork material and
put Fuel Lube on it. That would be a better fix.
IMHO
Dean 40449
________________________________________________________________________
===================================
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===================================
http://forums.matronics.com
===================================
http://wiki.matronics.com
===================================
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===================================
Message 20
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| Subject: | AN Clocking (again) |
ACS has it. Page 355 of their new catalog, under "Lubricants".
Sealube. Good stuff. Don't know why they don't list it with fuel
system supplies.
Jack Phillips
#40610
VS done - Now on to the Rudder!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:08 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
Don't remember, but the auto parts store probably has it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
NYTerminat@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
Jessie
Where did you get the Fuel/Seal lube?
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 9:30:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jesse@itecusa.org writes:
will try to answer in a way that has been recommended and has
worked. When we first started, we would take the fittings to the torque
value, then clock them from there. Yes, this takes a TON of pressure
sometimes, which is not good. In fact, we had some leak when this
happened. It was recommended by a very experience A&P that we use some
kind of thread sealer, Fuel/Seal Lube works great, then just run them on
as tight as we can get them by hand, then clock them from there. We did
this on two oil cooler
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: AN Clocking (again) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Go here for everything you want to know about AN fittings and hoses.
Rick S.
40185
http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/performance_lit.html
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative turbine, anyone? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Someone tell me why this is funny!
Being open minded and flexible is an important trait. Once WMDs weren't
found, the correct belief was that they never existed. GET IT!
Do Not Archive
JG 409
>From: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alternative turbine, anyone?
>Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 20:10:11 -0700
>
>And you talk about wasting bandwidth?
>
>Kevin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 8:04 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Alternative turbine, anyone?
>
>
> Hey, I've got a bridge for sale, too! Any takers?
>
>
> NY-Brooklyn-Bridge
>
>
> TDT
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: AN Clocking (again) |
There has been a lot of emailing on the rvlist@matronics.com about
TiteSeal. Everyone who has used it raves about how easy it is to use
WITH the cork gasket. It's use produces an excellent seal when used
with the cork gasket. Having said that, the cork comes off easily when
you want to open it back up later. I'm not speaking from experience,
only repeating what others, on the rv list, have proclaimed with their
experience. It's in the archives and I don't know anymore about the
subject nor where one can buy it ... sorry. From what others say I will
use it when the time comes to seal the tanks.
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV4 Flying
RV8A Wires
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
Don=92t remember, but the auto parts store probably has it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
NYTerminat@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:39 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
Jessie
Where did you get the Fuel/Seal lube?
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 9:30:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jesse@itecusa.org writes:
will try to answer in a way that has been recommended and has
worked. When we first started, we would take the fittings to the torque
value, then clock them from there. Yes, this takes a TON of pressure
sometimes, which is not good. In fact, we had some leak when this
happened. It was recommended by a very experience A&P that we use some
kind of thread sealer, Fuel/Seal Lube works great, then just run them on
as tight as we can get them by hand, then clock them from there. We did
this on two oil cooler
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://www.matronics.com/cont
ribution -- No virus found in this incoming message. Release Date:
8/14/2006
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Message 24
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|
I didn't see it in their catalogue, do you have a part number? I had used
some that I borrowed from an A&P to seal the fuel sender in another plane and
I
wanted to get some for myself.
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 10:33:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dlm46007@cox.net writes:
A lifetime supply is available in a can from Aircraft Spruce. One pound will
last you through all the aircraft you will ever build.
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: AN Clocking (again) |
Jack,
Thanks, That is what I was looking for!
Bob
do not archive
In a message dated 8/15/2006 10:56:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com writes:
ACS has it. Page 355 of their new catalog, under =9CLubricants
=9D. Sealube.
Good stuff. Don=99t know why they don=99t list it with fuel sy
stem supplies.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Message 26
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| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein@steinair.com>
This is true. For quite awhile I drained many of the the salvage houses of
all their vents for half of new (I've gone through literally hundreds of
them over the past couple years). That being said, the quality of used ones
and quantity just has just started to run out as other people (like Kevin)
encroached on my supply :)
So....I spent many months doing reasearch with all my old airline buddies
and found the supplier that makes the Vents for the military and
Boeing/Airbus which are a LOT cheaper than what is out there currently.
They are literally mil spec vents that I now have for sale on my site in
both Black and Clear Anodized Aluminum at $90 or $100. They are quite
superior in construction to the other ones out there in the large size, and
instead of a large square mounting plate you simply cut a hole (either 2" or
2.75" and screw on the plenum from the back). The small ones work
beautifully as well as the larger ones (I have the smaller ones in my RV and
they work great). I know they won't work too well as a retrofit for the 4
hole flange mounting pattern, but if you haven't done that yet don't waste
the space! These vents also include the mounting plenums as well. The
larger ones I have only take a 2.75" hole instead of a nearly 4" square hole
pattern for the flanges which are currently offered from Van's.
Sorry for the plug....but there is another option out there and unlike the
AirKit/Van's/Affordable Vents which are all copies of each other I don't
know of anyone else selling the vents I found other than Boeing and a few
defense contractors.
Cheers,
Stein.
Do Not Archive
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Belue, Kevin
>Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 8:56 AM
>To: 'rv10-list@matronics.com'
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Belue, Kevin" <KBelue@DRS-TEM.com>
>
>Yes, the metal vents are much better. If you look around, sometimes you can
>find the metal vents "like new" for a lot less. I paid $20 each for the
>vents on my first plane. I found some for the RV10 that were $40
>each in new
>condition.
>
>Kevin D. Belue
>
>>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: AN Clocking (again) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I'm sorry, I chickened out on this one because I didn't want to
> give incorrect info. I'll give my take on it, but for those
> who want to argue one way or the other, I'm not going to
> get into that.
snip
> As for fuel lube, I never used it. I don't know perhaps what
> I am missing, but I never saw the need. I used liquid teflon
> tape on the NPT (pipe thread, Threaded, NOT the flared connection)
> of the fittings, but absolutely nothing on the flared end
> or the nut associated with it. Here again, I know there will
> be people who will disagree or think something like fuel
> lube is good.
snip
Such blasphemy! Liquid teflon on fittings??? Sheesh!!!
Just kidding. I use the liquid teflon on my pipe threads too. Just
keep the first one or two threads clean and you'll never have any
problems. As for fuel lube, it's great also. However, it will, over
time, wash away and may have to be redone way down the road. That's the
only reason I use the liquid teflon ..... it'll stay where it's put and
seals really well. I have seen a lot of fittings that have the liquid
teflon ..... and it's squeezed out in gobs. Use it sparingly ..... it's
not like glue!!! The teflon tape will also work .... just remember to
start a couple of threads back so none can get into your system.
Linn
do not archive
Message 28
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Aircraft Spruce part number 09-25200. Sealube. $20.80 for a 1 lb can,
which as someone said will be a lifetime supply. I used it liberally on
the last airplane I built and maybe used a couple of tablespoons.
Jack Phillips
#40610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
NYTerminat@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel lube
I didn't see it in their catalogue, do you have a part number? I had
used some that I borrowed from an A&P to seal the fuel sender in another
plane and I wanted to get some for myself.
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 10:33:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dlm46007@cox.net writes:
A lifetime supply is available in a can from Aircraft Spruce.
One pound will last you through all the aircraft you will ever build.
=========================
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_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
Message 29
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check
http://aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php
----- Original Message -----
From: NYTerminat@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel lube
I didn't see it in their catalogue, do you have a part number? I had
used some that I borrowed from an A&P to seal the fuel sender in another
plane and I wanted to get some for myself.
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 10:33:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dlm46007@cox.net writes:
A lifetime supply is available in a can from Aircraft Spruce. One
pound will last you through all the aircraft you will ever build.
=========================
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Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Serious Front Axle Maintenance Issue on the RV-10 |
Message 31
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| Subject: | AN Clocking (again) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
With the thread sealing pastes, try to get one that will set up firm
but soft. This adds a little bit of additional sealing capability where
Teflon tape really just lets you crank down an NPT fitting tighter.
Places like Lowes Depot all carry descent quality thread pastes
nowadays. I get mine from a buddy that's a pipefitter though because he
gets the really good stuff.
If you have Teflon tape, throw it in the trash and switch to a paste.
Also you really must use some sort of sealant/lube on NPT threads in
order to get a good seal.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters
--> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I'm sorry, I chickened out on this one because I didn't want to give
> incorrect info. I'll give my take on it, but for those who want to
> argue one way or the other, I'm not going to get into that.
snip
> As for fuel lube, I never used it. I don't know perhaps what I am
> missing, but I never saw the need. I used liquid teflon tape on the
> NPT (pipe thread, Threaded, NOT the flared connection) of the
> fittings, but absolutely nothing on the flared end or the nut
> associated with it. Here again, I know there will be people who will
> disagree or think something like fuel lube is good.
snip
Such blasphemy! Liquid teflon on fittings??? Sheesh!!!
Just kidding. I use the liquid teflon on my pipe threads too. Just
keep the first one or two threads clean and you'll never have any
problems. As for fuel lube, it's great also. However, it will, over
time, wash away and may have to be redone way down the road. That's the
only reason I use the liquid teflon ..... it'll stay where it's put and
seals really well. I have seen a lot of fittings that have the liquid
teflon ..... and it's squeezed out in gobs. Use it sparingly ..... it's
not like glue!!! The teflon tape will also work .... just remember to
start a couple of threads back so none can get into your system.
Linn
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting |
I did one Y vent off the back baffle scat tube flange. I didn't run a
hose down to the heater boxes, only aimed the open Y of the Y Vent
towards the firewall right above the heater boxes.
I am in Lubbock, Texas 3200 msl and daytime temps have been 95-100.
Best regards,
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Kermanj
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
Did you do this on both vents? What is the result and how hot is it
where you normally fly?
Do not archive
On Aug 15, 2006, at 3:28 AM, Russell Daves wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
I obtained mine from Van's. Item number VENT DL-Y at $19.00. I
attached it directly to the riveted on scat tube flange at the back of
the baffle directing the Y down towards the heater boxes and the primary
run down to the right side heat muff.
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@avidyne.com>
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 11:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
Where was a source for a ducting 'Y' splitter for use to split
airflow from the engine baffles to direct towards the heater boxes
(reference tunnel temps)
Can't seem to find it at Spruce, but you never know what they are
going to call some stuff . . .
TDT
40025
- The RV10-List Email Forum -
--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
- NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
--> http://forums.matronics.com
- NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
--> http://wiki.matronics.com
- List Contribution Web Site -
Thank you for your generous support!
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=========================
=========================
--> http://forums.matronics.com
=========================
http://wiki.matronics.com
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Message 33
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| Subject: | Door seal adhesive |
I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal. What
are others having success with?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
--
Message 34
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--> RV10-List message posted by: L Aune <lcaune@cablelan.net>
Les
I am a builder from Kelowna working on the doors at present. I am an
AME-M and an AME-S teaching aircraft structures for BCIT. If you
ever get out this way I'll give you a mini start-up course which will
safely get you started on this great project. Drop by or call Len
250-766-5456.
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Serious Front Axle Maintenance Issue on the RV-10 |
I have attached a pic from the parts manual of the nose wheel and axle of a
C-182 for reference.
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 10:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Serious Front Axle Maintenance Issue on the RV-10
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> There are thousands of production planes with front forks, obviously.
> What
> do these look like relative to the problem? This cannot be a unique
> issue
> that hasn't been solved years, decades ago.
>
> John J
> Tailcone
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal adhesive |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
3M Super silicone sealant. NAPA and auto parts stores
carry it, or can order a caulking tube of it. From what
I can tell, it's almost or exactly like regualar GE clear
silicone sealant you could by at the hardware store.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
John Testement wrote:
> I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal.
> What are others having success with?
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
>
> --
> 8/15/2006
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
Pardon this, but I need to test my hotmail settings.
Mark
>From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:08:06 -0500
>
>I did one Y vent off the back baffle scat tube flange. I didn't run a hose
>down to the heater boxes, only aimed the open Y of the Y Vent towards the
>firewall right above the heater boxes.
>
>I am in Lubbock, Texas 3200 msl and daytime temps have been 95-100.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Russ Daves
>N710RV Flying
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rob Kermanj
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:40 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>
>
> Did you do this on both vents? What is the result and how hot is it
>where you normally fly?
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> On Aug 15, 2006, at 3:28 AM, Russell Daves wrote:
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>
>
> I obtained mine from Van's. Item number VENT DL-Y at $19.00. I
>attached it directly to the riveted on scat tube flange at the back of the
>baffle directing the Y down towards the heater boxes and the primary run
>down to the right side heat muff.
>
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV Flying
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
><Tdawson@avidyne.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 11:28 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>
>
> Where was a source for a ducting 'Y' splitter for use to split airflow
>from the engine baffles to direct towards the heater boxes (reference
>tunnel temps)
>
>
> Can't seem to find it at Spruce, but you never know what they are
>going to call some stuff . . .
>
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
> - The RV10-List Email Forum -
> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> --> http://forums.matronics.com
> - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> --> http://wiki.matronics.com
> - List Contribution Web Site -
> Thank you for your generous support!
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==================================================-->
>http://forums.matronics.com
>=========================http://wiki.matronics.com
>============================================================
Message 38
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| Subject: | Door seal adhesive |
Plain old Silicone is the only thing that we could get to work.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal. What
are others having success with?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
--
8/15/2006
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
Russ,
Did you put a scat tube on the outlet side of the heat muff to dump the heat
overbroad?
Mark
>From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:08:06 -0500
>
>I did one Y vent off the back baffle scat tube flange. I didn't run a hose
>down to the heater boxes, only aimed the open Y of the Y Vent towards the
>firewall right above the heater boxes.
>
>I am in Lubbock, Texas 3200 msl and daytime temps have been 95-100.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Russ Daves
>N710RV Flying
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rob Kermanj
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:40 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>
>
> Did you do this on both vents? What is the result and how hot is it
>where you normally fly?
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> On Aug 15, 2006, at 3:28 AM, Russell Daves wrote:
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>
>
> I obtained mine from Van's. Item number VENT DL-Y at $19.00. I
>attached it directly to the riveted on scat tube flange at the back of the
>baffle directing the Y down towards the heater boxes and the primary run
>down to the right side heat muff.
>
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV Flying
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
><Tdawson@avidyne.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 11:28 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>
>
> Where was a source for a ducting 'Y' splitter for use to split airflow
>from the engine baffles to direct towards the heater boxes (reference
>tunnel temps)
>
>
> Can't seem to find it at Spruce, but you never know what they are
>going to call some stuff . . .
>
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
> - The RV10-List Email Forum -
> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> --> http://forums.matronics.com
> - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> --> http://wiki.matronics.com
> - List Contribution Web Site -
> Thank you for your generous support!
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==================================================-->
>http://forums.matronics.com
>=========================http://wiki.matronics.com
>============================================================
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | AN Clocking (again) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I also used Teflon paste, it was Locktite 565. It works great
on all fuel and brake line pipe threads. I have used fuel lube in the
past and it works fine on fuel line connections, but I had one hell of
time with leaks on the pipe fittings of brake lines. I've since
switched to locktite 565 on the brake line fitting and haven't had any
issues since.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I'm sorry, I chickened out on this one because I didn't want to
> give incorrect info. I'll give my take on it, but for those
> who want to argue one way or the other, I'm not going to
> get into that.
snip
> As for fuel lube, I never used it. I don't know perhaps what
> I am missing, but I never saw the need. I used liquid teflon
> tape on the NPT (pipe thread, Threaded, NOT the flared connection)
> of the fittings, but absolutely nothing on the flared end
> or the nut associated with it. Here again, I know there will
> be people who will disagree or think something like fuel
> lube is good.
snip
Such blasphemy! Liquid teflon on fittings??? Sheesh!!!
Just kidding. I use the liquid teflon on my pipe threads too. Just
keep the first one or two threads clean and you'll never have any
problems. As for fuel lube, it's great also. However, it will, over
time, wash away and may have to be redone way down the road. That's the
only reason I use the liquid teflon ..... it'll stay where it's put and
seals really well. I have seen a lot of fittings that have the liquid
teflon ..... and it's squeezed out in gobs. Use it sparingly ..... it's
not like glue!!! The teflon tape will also work .... just remember to
start a couple of threads back so none can get into your system.
Linn
do not archive
Message 41
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|
Thanks Jack, the confusion is there are other products that sound like the
same thing such as EZ turn lubricant"EZ Turn is the functional equivalent of
fuel lube" P/N 09-00306
In a message dated 8/15/2006 1:12:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com writes:
Aircraft Spruce part number 09-25200. Sealube. $20.80 for a 1 lb can,
which as someone said will be a lifetime supply. I used it liberally on the last
airplane I built and maybe used a couple of tablespoons.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal adhesive |
Just remember that silicone sticks to paint but paint will not adhere to
silicone.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
Plain old Silicone is the only thing that we could get to work.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:59 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal.
What are others having success with?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
--
8/15/2006
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://www.matronics.com/cont
ribution -- No virus found in this incoming message. Release Date:
8/14/2006
--
8/14/2006
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
Dear Mark & all the RV-10 crowd:
I added the Y vent off the back baffle scat tube flange. I ran scat tube
from the straight exit of the Y vent down to the heat muff and then from the
heat muff to one of the heater vents. I aimed the open Y of the Y Vent
towards the firewall right above the heater boxes. On the left side forward
baffle scat tube flange I ran scat tube from it back to the other heat muff
and then from the heat muff to the other heater vent.
In case somebody hasn't read my other postings about the heater vent
corrective actions they were as follows:
I installed a gasket between the firewall and the heater vents. I installed
RTV around the heater vent opening and door (put wax paper between the RTV
and door) and using the door opening vent cables on the panel closed the
door openings on the heater vents fully closed. After setup of the RTV I
removed the wax paper which now allows the door to seal real good. I then
put RTV all around the outside of the heater boxes and the firewall.
I insulated the inside firewall with foil backed insulation and installed
foil backed insulation on the bottom of the tunnel floor, and 1/2"
soundproofing between the floor panels and the bottom skin.
To date the forward part of the tunnel gets warm but not to hot to lean my
bare leg up against the tunnel (no carpet or covering on either the floor of
the tunnel yet, just bare metal).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
>
> Russ,
>
> Did you put a scat tube on the outlet side of the heat muff to dump the
> heat overbroad?
>
> Mark
>
>
>>From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>>Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:08:06 -0500
>>
>>I did one Y vent off the back baffle scat tube flange. I didn't run a
>>hose down to the heater boxes, only aimed the open Y of the Y Vent towards
>>the firewall right above the heater boxes.
>>
>>I am in Lubbock, Texas 3200 msl and daytime temps have been 95-100.
>>
>>Best regards,
>>
>>Russ Daves
>>N710RV Flying
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Rob Kermanj
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:40 AM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>>
>>
>> Did you do this on both vents? What is the result and how hot is it
>> where you normally fly?
>>
>>
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | spray ceramic heat barrier |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey all -
Just thought I'd pass along a bit of info... I'm at the point in the
fuse that I'm trying to head off any heat issues (you all know what I
mean) and I ran across this stuff.
http://www.lizardskin.com
I just got off the phone with the guy, and it seems like this stuff will
be helpful. It's not cheap though...$189 a gallon. Heat rejection,
moderate fire protection, insulation. Sounds pretty good. Also,
according to the guy, the weight of the product after drying is 3lbs per
gallon. Pretty good. Also, he says that it will stick fine to epoxy
primer, and stays pliable, no cracking etc. I've ordered a gallon, and
I'm going to test it out a bit and see if it lives up to all the hype.
Oh - don't go ordering the sound control formula - I think the guy said
that stuff weighs somewhere around 13lbs per gallon!
cj
#40401
fuse
finished rolling my fuse skins!! Only had to reorder one :)
Message 45
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| Subject: | Door seal adhesive |
I tried GE Silicon II and it did not stick. Also tried 3M super trim
adhesive, and Goop. Maybe I need to scuff the rubber some more.
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 3:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
Plain old Silicone is the only thing that we could get to work.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal. What
are others having success with?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
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Message 46
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| Subject: | re: AN Clocking (again) |
Thanks to all for the responses - particularly John for stirring the pot
on my behalf.
I spent a fair bit of time researching the matronics archives last night
and the very useful link that Rick provided. Clocking the fittings
while achieving an acceptable torque really does seem to be a bit of
black magic.
One of the more telling pieces of info came from Rick's link to
aeroquip:
"Q: How many times can I reuse my fittings and adapters?
A: Inspect sealing surfaces and threaded connections for signs of
damage. If they appear to be in good condition, they may be reused.
Tapered pipe thread connections are distorted each time they are
reinstalled. Often after 3 or 4 tightening sequences the threads are
stretched or distorted beyond practical reuse. "
If the NPT type threads are distorted after 3-4 tightening cycles, this
suggests to me that you really do need to tighten them a fair bit.
At this stage, I will 'wing it' - as tight as possible while achieving
the required clocking. I was going to use fuel lube, but based on list
feedback, I will give the teflon paste (locktite 565) a try.
cheers,
Ron
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: spray ceramic heat barrier |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Pascal" <pascalreid@verizon.net>
let us know when the day comes that you test this. Looks like a nice
solution.
Thx
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 3:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: spray ceramic heat barrier
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Hey all -
>
> Just thought I'd pass along a bit of info... I'm at the point in the
> fuse that I'm trying to head off any heat issues (you all know what I
> mean) and I ran across this stuff.
>
> http://www.lizardskin.com
>
> I just got off the phone with the guy, and it seems like this stuff will
> be helpful. It's not cheap though...$189 a gallon. Heat rejection,
> moderate fire protection, insulation. Sounds pretty good. Also,
> according to the guy, the weight of the product after drying is 3lbs per
> gallon. Pretty good. Also, he says that it will stick fine to epoxy
> primer, and stays pliable, no cracking etc. I've ordered a gallon, and
> I'm going to test it out a bit and see if it lives up to all the hype.
>
> Oh - don't go ordering the sound control formula - I think the guy said
> that stuff weighs somewhere around 13lbs per gallon!
>
> cj
> #40401
> fuse
> finished rolling my fuse skins!! Only had to reorder one :)
>
>
>
Message 48
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV10Aviator" <mani.ravee@us.army.mil>
Guys, its me, Mani. Lost my ID and had to make a new one. Oh well.
One six right is coming live to a selected cities around the place. In digital
Sony 4x projection. Tickets are available online at the link. Go to tours and
you can buy it online from there. Aviators need to see it. My whole family is
going.
http://www.onesixright.com/
Also enjoy the videos and reading about it.
Mani Ravee
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55065#55065
Message 49
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| Subject: | Lubricating UHMW Blocks |
Question for today . . .
I was finishing off the control activation and flaps last night and
noticed a significant amount of friction between the UHMW blocks and
flap torque tubes. Given that there are four such tube/block
interfaces, the total amount of friction may create significant startup
torque on the flap motor. I understand that the UHMW blocks are teflon
based and therefore self lubricating, but is there a recommended way of
reducing the surface friction with the torques tubes? Is lightly
sanding or polishing the paint from the torque tubes or inside of the
bushing, or using an additional lubricant preferred??
thanks in advance (yet again)
Ron
#187
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Valve Clearance Solution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
I had copied a previous thread on this subject and saved it as a .pdf file.
I have attached it for those interested.
Kevin
40494
empennage
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55088#55088
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/matronics__nose_wheel_rma_info_valve_stem_clearance_issue_154.pdf
Message 51
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| Subject: | Lubricating UHMW Blocks |
They do go in pretty tight, but that doesn=92t seem to make any
difference on
the functionality of the flaps. I am sure, with the torque on the flap
motor, it is probably better to have them tight and add a little bit of
torque than to have them loose and add the possibility of
vibration/movement
in the system. I would think that the amount of torque in the plastic
blocks would be substantially less than the torque of dropping the flaps
from 0 to 15 or 15 to 30 degrees at 100kts/mph, whichever the max flap
speed
is. We haven=92t used any lubrication or modified the parts at all.
Anybody
else out there with different experiences?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lubricating UHMW Blocks
Question for today . . .
I was finishing off the control activation and flaps last night and
noticed
a significant amount of friction between the UHMW blocks and flap torque
tubes. Given that there are four such tube/block interfaces, the total
amount of friction may create significant startup torque on the flap
motor.
I understand that the UHMW blocks are teflon based and therefore self
lubricating, but is there a recommended way of reducing the surface
friction
with the torques tubes? Is lightly sanding or polishing the paint from
the
torque tubes or inside of the bushing, or using an additional lubricant
preferred??
thanks in advance (yet again)
Ron
#187
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| Subject: | Door seal adhesive |
Not sure what that means, but it seemed to work the way we did it. We
tried
everything else we could think of before just going ahead and doing it
the
way Van=92s recommends. By the way, those that saw N256H at Osh with
the
screws holding it on, that didn=92t hold up and we replaced it just
using
silicone and it worked fine. I don=92t know the make or part number for
sure,
but I think it was a caulk gun tube size and I think it was GE. I just
know
that it said Silicone on it.
I would be very interested in another style of door seal, like the one
Debbie had. I think the design of the doors, latches and seals are by
far
the weakest feature of this plane, although I understand the RV-10
isn=92t the
only plane out there with door problems.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
Just remember that silicone sticks to paint but paint will not adhere to
silicone.
----- Original Message -----
From: HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
Plain old Silicone is the only thing that we could get to work.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: HYPERLINK
"mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com"owner-rv10-list-server@matro
nic
s.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal.
What
are others having success with?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
--
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http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 53
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| Subject: | Lubricating UHMW Blocks |
Ron,
I opted for the light sanding and it seemed to help a lot.
Marcus
40286
First flight (attempt) this Saturday!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lubricating UHMW Blocks
Question for today . . .
I was finishing off the control activation and flaps last night and noticed
a significant amount of friction between the UHMW blocks and flap torque
tubes. Given that there are four such tube/block interfaces, the total
amount of friction may create significant startup torque on the flap motor.
I understand that the UHMW blocks are teflon based and therefore self
lubricating, but is there a recommended way of reducing the surface friction
with the torques tubes? Is lightly sanding or polishing the paint from the
torque tubes or inside of the bushing, or using an additional lubricant
preferred??
thanks in advance (yet again)
Ron
#187
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Window overspray |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
Marcus,
Read the reply from John Cox in this thread before you use any solvents:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=5024
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 4:12 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window overspray
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> I have it on fairly good authority that acetone can remove overspray from
> the windows without leaving any marks or damaging the plexi. Other than
> that, MicroMesh from Spruce for PolyCarb should do the trick, but is very
> labor-intensive.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
> Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 6:39 PM
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> Some time ago there were some great responses on how to remove overspray
> from the windows. At the time I was scoffing the idea and didn't save
> what
> would now be some extremely valuable information. Any reposting, or at
> least the proper search words (no luck on my part), would be deeply
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
> 40286 - engine running, dangerously close to inspection time! If I can
> just
> get all the Gucci panels programmed I'll be in business.
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
>
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 55
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| Subject: | Insurance for first flight |
I had a near anxiety attack causing lesson yesterday over my insurance. My
machine is all signed off and ready to go for Saturday, so I called the
insurance folks I had spoken to during Sun-n-Fun prepared to bind the
insurance. While at Sun-n-Fun, I had been told that my 5,500+ hours,
extensive RV-6 and other low wing time (Cherokee, etc) would count as close
enough to the RV-10 so no -10 time was required. Well, things have changed
and I was told from several insurers that between 2-5 hours Dual was
required and one company said they wouldn't insure during the test period no
matter what. I was heart broken over possibly not being able to fly this
weekend.
Fortunately, after many calls to every agent I could think of, the folks at
Falcon Insurance hooked me up with AIG and approved no experience
requirements but with an increased deductible and reduced liability during
the test phase - WHEW! I am certainly a firm believer in experience in make
and model and don't want to downplay the benefits, but I survived my Q-2 and
Skybolt with no make/model time and have enough experience in enough types
that I'm confident all will go well, and apparently so does Falcon. This is
certainly not the right answer for everyone, but I wanted to stress that the
industry has become more conservative regarding the RV-10 (one broker told
me they were leaning toward 250 hrs TT and an instrument rating!) so I'd
recommend folks plan ahead and get the training if required.
Marcus
40286
Do not archive
Message 56
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| Subject: | Lubricating UHMW Blocks |
Ron, I used a scotchbrite pad on the tube...checked the flap motor with a
12V supply..minimum friction.
John 40315
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, 16 August 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lubricating UHMW Blocks
Question for today . . .
I was finishing off the control activation and flaps last night and noticed
a significant amount of friction between the UHMW blocks and flap torque
tubes. Given that there are four such tube/block interfaces, the total
amount of friction may create significant startup torque on the flap motor.
I understand that the UHMW blocks are teflon based and therefore self
lubricating, but is there a recommended way of reducing the surface friction
with the torques tubes? Is lightly sanding or polishing the paint from the
torque tubes or inside of the bushing, or using an additional lubricant
preferred??
thanks in advance (yet again)
Ron
#187
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | Re: Air Vent Recommendation |
Well I'm confused, which one's work on the RV10?
SteinAir, Inc. wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein@steinair.com>
>
>This is true. For quite awhile I drained many of the the salvage houses of
>all their vents for half of new (I've gone through literally hundreds of
>them over the past couple years). That being said, the quality of used ones
>and quantity just has just started to run out as other people (like Kevin)
>encroached on my supply :)
>
>So....I spent many months doing reasearch with all my old airline buddies
>and found the supplier that makes the Vents for the military and
>Boeing/Airbus which are a LOT cheaper than what is out there currently.
>They are literally mil spec vents that I now have for sale on my site in
>both Black and Clear Anodized Aluminum at $90 or $100. They are quite
>superior in construction to the other ones out there in the large size, and
>instead of a large square mounting plate you simply cut a hole (either 2" or
>2.75" and screw on the plenum from the back). The small ones work
>beautifully as well as the larger ones (I have the smaller ones in my RV and
>they work great). I know they won't work too well as a retrofit for the 4
>hole flange mounting pattern, but if you haven't done that yet don't waste
>the space! These vents also include the mounting plenums as well. The
>larger ones I have only take a 2.75" hole instead of a nearly 4" square hole
>pattern for the flanges which are currently offered from Van's.
>
>Sorry for the plug....but there is another option out there and unlike the
>AirKit/Van's/Affordable Vents which are all copies of each other I don't
>know of anyone else selling the vents I found other than Boeing and a few
>defense contractors.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein.
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Belue, Kevin
>>Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 8:56 AM
>>To: 'rv10-list@matronics.com'
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
>>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Belue, Kevin" <KBelue@DRS-TEM.com>
>>
>>Yes, the metal vents are much better. If you look around, sometimes you can
>>find the metal vents "like new" for a lot less. I paid $20 each for the
>>vents on my first plane. I found some for the RV10 that were $40
>>each in new
>>condition.
>>
>>Kevin D. Belue
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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