Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:15 AM - Re: Insurance for first flight (Russell Daves)
2. 03:37 AM - Re: Lubricating UHMW Blocks (Rob Kermanj)
3. 03:47 AM - Re: Door seal adhesive (Rob Kermanj)
4. 04:28 AM - please remove me from the list (Tom Ganster)
5. 04:38 AM - Re: Lubricating UHMW Blocks (Tim Olson)
6. 04:44 AM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (Tim Olson)
7. 04:57 AM - Re: Door seal adhesive (Tim Olson)
8. 05:51 AM - Re: Door seal adhesive (Jesse Saint)
9. 06:27 AM - Re: Door seal adhesive (Rob Kermanj)
10. 07:18 AM - Air Vent Recommendation (John N. Strain II)
11. 09:45 AM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (SteinAir, Inc.)
12. 09:53 AM - Re: Insurance for first flight (Pascal)
13. 09:59 AM - Cleaveland Tool Sale (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
14. 12:14 PM - Re: please remove me from the list- resolution (Pascal)
15. 12:41 PM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
16. 12:46 PM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
17. 01:41 PM - Re: Insurance for first flight (Tim Olson)
18. 03:15 PM - Re: Insurance for first flight (John Hasbrouck)
19. 03:40 PM - Overhead Console - Lighting (Byron Gillespie)
20. 03:55 PM - Insurance for building (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 04:03 PM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (John N. Strain II)
22. 04:12 PM - Re: Overhead Console (Belue, Kevin)
23. 04:27 PM - Re: Air Vent Recommendation (SteinAir, Inc.)
24. 04:59 PM - Re: Overhead Console (John Testement)
25. 05:17 PM - Re: Overhead Console - Lighting (David McNeill)
26. 05:19 PM - Re: Insurance for building (David McNeill)
27. 07:50 PM - Re: Insurance for building (Marcus Cooper)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance for first flight |
Lubricating UHMW BlocksI also went with AIG, through NationAir and they
waived make and model time in an RV-10 for both me and my buddy who I
added as a named pilot. We both have in excess of 1400 hours. I have
almost 300 TT in an RV-6A but my buddy doesn't have any RV time.
Insured for $200,000.00 for less than $3800.00 premium.
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying - going to paint shop tomorrow
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
I had a near anxiety attack causing lesson yesterday over my
insurance. My machine is all signed off and ready to go for Saturday,
so I called the insurance folks I had spoken to during Sun-n-Fun
prepared to bind the insurance. While at Sun-n-Fun, I had been told
that my 5,500+ hours, extensive RV-6 and other low wing time (Cherokee,
etc) would count as close enough to the RV-10 so no -10 time was
required. Well, things have changed and I was told from several
insurers that between 2-5 hours Dual was required and one company said
they wouldn't insure during the test period no matter what. I was heart
broken over possibly not being able to fly this weekend.
Fortunately, after many calls to every agent I could think of, the
folks at Falcon Insurance hooked me up with AIG and approved no
experience requirements but with an increased deductible and reduced
liability during the test phase - WHEW! I am certainly a firm believer
in experience in make and model and don't want to downplay the benefits,
but I survived my Q-2 and Skybolt with no make/model time and have
enough experience in enough types that I'm confident all will go well,
and apparently so does Falcon. This is certainly not the right answer
for everyone, but I wanted to stress that the industry has become more
conservative regarding the RV-10 (one broker told me they were leaning
toward 250 hrs TT and an instrument rating!) so I'd recommend folks plan
ahead and get the training if required.
Marcus
40286
Do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Lubricating UHMW Blocks |
I believe using white grease on them is OK.
Do not archive.
On Aug 15, 2006, at 10:04 PM, McGANN, Ron wrote:
> Question for today . . .
>
> I was finishing off the control activation and flaps last night and
> noticed a significant amount of friction between the UHMW blocks
> and flap torque tubes. Given that there are four such tube/block
> interfaces, the total amount of friction may create significant
> startup torque on the flap motor. I understand that the UHMW
> blocks are teflon based and therefore self lubricating, but is
> there a recommended way of reducing the surface friction with the
> torques tubes? Is lightly sanding or polishing the paint from the
> torque tubes or inside of the bushing, or using an additional
> lubricant preferred??
>
> thanks in advance (yet again)
> Ron
> #187
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal adhesive |
I used a rubber door seal that I purchased from Brown Aircraft Supply
in Jacksonville, FL along with 3M 1300L glue. The seal only comes in
black and it has the identical profile with Van's seal supplied with
the kit.
I was looking for a door seal with smaller diameter bulb so the door
could be closed easier. I also did not want to get silicone glue
(the only glue you can use with the door seal that comes with the
kit) near my plane before painting the plane for the fear of
contamination.
I seem to have a good seal and am able to close latch the door with
less force on the handle.
Do not archive.
On Aug 15, 2006, at 10:43 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> Not sure what that means, but it seemed to work the way we did it.
> We tried everything else we could think of before just going ahead
> and doing it the way Van=92s recommends. By the way, those that saw
> N256H at Osh with the screws holding it on, that didn=92t hold up and
> we replaced it just using silicone and it worked fine. I don=92t
> know the make or part number for sure, but I think it was a caulk
> gun tube size and I think it was GE. I just know that it said
> Silicone on it.
>
>
> I would be very interested in another style of door seal, like the
> one Debbie had. I think the design of the doors, latches and seals
> are by far the weakest feature of this plane, although I understand
> the RV-10 isn=92t the only plane out there with door problems.
>
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:08 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
>
>
> Just remember that silicone sticks to paint but paint will not
> adhere to silicone.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Jesse Saint
>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:01 PM
>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
>
>
> Plain old Silicone is the only thing that we could get to work.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:59 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
>
>
> I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door
> seal. What are others having success with?
>
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
>
> Richmond, VA
> Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
>
>
> --
> 8/15/2006
>
>
> --
> 8/14/2006
>
>
> ========================
===========
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ========================
===========
> ========================
===========
> ========================
===========
> www.matronics.com/contribution
> ========================
===========
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
> --
> 8/14/2006
>
List
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> ========================
> ========================
the
> ========================
> ========================
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | please remove me from the list |
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Lubricating UHMW Blocks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Mine were pretty tight too, but I just left them. Spraying them
with something may attract dust and stuff. 110 hours later
they're still fine. I think the friction is pretty minor
compared to the aerodynamic forces they'll be working against.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> Question for today . . .
>
> I was finishing off the control activation and flaps last night and
> noticed a significant amount of friction between the UHMW blocks and
> flap torque tubes. Given that there are four such tube/block
> interfaces, the total amount of friction may create significant startup
> torque on the flap motor. I understand that the UHMW blocks are teflon
> based and therefore self lubricating, but is there a recommended way of
> reducing the surface friction with the torques tubes? Is lightly
> sanding or polishing the paint from the torque tubes or inside of the
> bushing, or using an additional lubricant preferred??
>
> thanks in advance (yet again)
> Ron
> #187
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Air Vent Recommendation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
The vents Stein has are probably the best available, but none that
he has *today* are a drop-in replacement that works with the
4-hole thing sent with the kit. What he's saying is if you want
a better, cheaper valve, do a little creative engineering and
don't attach that 4-hole thing, but attach a hose, mount the
valve differently, and use his valve.
Jesse was right that the doors are one of the weak design areas
of the plane, but the ventilation is another. I'm all for
trying to figure out something better for the front vents, but
in the end I gave up. The newer kits with the lower cutouts
may have better luck.
At any rate, the 4-hole ones are what I used, so I couldn't
get them from him right now. I believe he may be able to get
them eventually, but I'm not sure. After seeing the ones on
his site, I wanted to go down that path, but just couldn't do
it today. Stein, work on those guys to get you a supply and
you'll sell a bunch.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Sam Marlow wrote:
> Well I'm confused, which one's work on the RV10?
>
> SteinAir, Inc. wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein@steinair.com>
>>
>> This is true. For quite awhile I drained many of the the salvage houses of
>> all their vents for half of new (I've gone through literally hundreds of
>> them over the past couple years). That being said, the quality of used ones
>> and quantity just has just started to run out as other people (like Kevin)
>> encroached on my supply :)
>>
>> So....I spent many months doing reasearch with all my old airline buddies
>> and found the supplier that makes the Vents for the military and
>> Boeing/Airbus which are a LOT cheaper than what is out there currently.
>> They are literally mil spec vents that I now have for sale on my site in
>> both Black and Clear Anodized Aluminum at $90 or $100. They are quite
>> superior in construction to the other ones out there in the large size, and
>> instead of a large square mounting plate you simply cut a hole (either 2" or
>> 2.75" and screw on the plenum from the back). The small ones work
>> beautifully as well as the larger ones (I have the smaller ones in my RV and
>> they work great). I know they won't work too well as a retrofit for the 4
>> hole flange mounting pattern, but if you haven't done that yet don't waste
>> the space! These vents also include the mounting plenums as well. The
>> larger ones I have only take a 2.75" hole instead of a nearly 4" square hole
>> pattern for the flanges which are currently offered from Van's.
>>
>> Sorry for the plug....but there is another option out there and unlike the
>> AirKit/Van's/Affordable Vents which are all copies of each other I don't
>> know of anyone else selling the vents I found other than Boeing and a few
>> defense contractors.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Stein.
>>
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Belue, Kevin
>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 8:56 AM
>>> To: 'rv10-list@matronics.com'
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
>>>
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Belue, Kevin" <KBelue@DRS-TEM.com>
>>>
>>> Yes, the metal vents are much better. If you look around, sometimes you can
>>> find the metal vents "like new" for a lot less. I paid $20 each for the
>>> vents on my first plane. I found some for the RV10 that were $40
>>> each in new
>>> condition.
>>>
>>> Kevin D. Belue
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal adhesive |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I installed the seal after the door was painted. The door does need
a good pull though to close, so it would be nice to have your
seal, but in the standard silicone. The silicone should last
longer and hold up better. Both should be fine.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
> I was looking for a door seal with smaller diameter bulb so the door
> could be closed easier. I also did not want to get silicone glue (the
> only glue you can use with the door seal that comes with the kit) near
> my plane before painting the plane for the fear of contamination.
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Door seal adhesive |
Rob,
Which actual part number did you buy? They have a number of them that
look
the same as the Van=92s gray seal.
Thanks and do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
I used a rubber door seal that I purchased from Brown Aircraft Supply in
Jacksonville, FL along with 3M 1300L glue. The seal only comes in black
and
it has the identical profile with Van's seal supplied with the kit.
I was looking for a door seal with smaller diameter bulb so the door
could
be closed easier. I also did not want to get silicone glue (the only
glue
you can use with the door seal that comes with the kit) near my plane
before
painting the plane for the fear of contamination.
I seem to have a good seal and am able to close latch the door with less
force on the handle.
Do not archive.
On Aug 15, 2006, at 10:43 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
Not sure what that means, but it seemed to work the way we did it. We
tried
everything else we could think of before just going ahead and doing it
the
way Van=92s recommends. By the way, those that saw N256H at Osh with
the
screws holding it on, that didn=92t hold up and we replaced it just
using
silicone and it worked fine. I don=92t know the make or part number for
sure,
but I think it was a caulk gun tube size and I think it was GE. I just
know
that it said Silicone on it.
I would be very interested in another style of door seal, like the one
Debbie had. I think the design of the doors, latches and seals are by
far
the weakest feature of this plane, although I understand the RV-10
isn=92t the
only plane out there with door problems.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [HYPERLINK
"mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com"mailto:owner-rv10-list-serve
r@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
Just remember that silicone sticks to paint but paint will not adhere to
silicone.
----- Original Message -----
From: HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
Plain old Silicone is the only thing that we could get to work.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: HYPERLINK
"mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com"owner-rv10-list-server@matro
nic
s.com [HYPERLINK
"mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com"mailto:owner-rv10-list-serve
r@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal.
What
are others having success with?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
--
8/15/2006
--
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href="">
href="
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href="">
- The RV10-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space">
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"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
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Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Re: Door seal adhesive |
It is BA1900010. It has a smaller bulb and a shorter leg. Just make
sure that you mask the door before applying the 3M glue. Once there
and cured, it will not come off.
Do not archive.
On Aug 16, 2006, at 8:49 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> Rob,
>
>
> Which actual part number did you buy? They have a number of them
> that look the same as the Van=92s gray seal.
>
>
> Thanks and do not archive.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 6:45 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
>
>
> I used a rubber door seal that I purchased from Brown Aircraft
> Supply in Jacksonville, FL along with 3M 1300L glue. The seal only
> comes in black and it has the identical profile with Van's seal
> supplied with the kit.
>
>
> I was looking for a door seal with smaller diameter bulb so the
> door could be closed easier. I also did not want to get silicone
> glue (the only glue you can use with the door seal that comes with
> the kit) near my plane before painting the plane for the fear of
> contamination.
>
>
> I seem to have a good seal and am able to close latch the door with
> less force on the handle.
>
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> On Aug 15, 2006, at 10:43 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>
> Not sure what that means, but it seemed to work the way we did it.
> We tried everything else we could think of before just going ahead
> and doing it the way Van=92s recommends. By the way, those that saw
> N256H at Osh with the screws holding it on, that didn=92t hold up and
> we replaced it just using silicone and it worked fine. I don=92t
> know the make or part number for sure, but I think it was a caulk
> gun tube size and I think it was GE. I just know that it said
> Silicone on it.
>
>
> I would be very interested in another style of door seal, like the
> one Debbie had. I think the design of the doors, latches and seals
> are by far the weakest feature of this plane, although I understand
> the RV-10 isn=92t the only plane out there with door problems.
>
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:08 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
>
>
> Just remember that silicone sticks to paint but paint will not
> adhere to silicone.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Jesse Saint
>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:01 PM
>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
>
>
> Plain old Silicone is the only thing that we could get to work.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:59 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
>
>
> I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door
> seal. What are others having success with?
>
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
>
> Richmond, VA
> Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
>
>
> --
> 8/15/2006
>
>
> --
> 8/14/2006
>
>
> ==========
> href="">
> ==========
> href="
> ==========
> href="
> ==========
> href="">
> ==========
>
>
> - The RV10-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-
> space"> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-
> List - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - class="Apple-
> converted-space"> --> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
> --
> 8/15/2006
>
>
> --
> 8/15/2006
>
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> ========================
> ========================
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> ========================
> ========================
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
From: "John N. Strain II" <aircarepros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
I am attatching a photo of even another option for vents. These vents are the
most highly styled available and provide more air movement than any of the others
that have been mentioned. They were displayed in the Flightline AC booth
as an upgrade option to our ac systems. They mount thru a skin (overhead or
panel) by drilling a 2.5" hole and are held in place by a threaded fitting that
can accept a 2.5" hose, or they are trimmed to allow for use in an overhead
panel. They fully close off, partially open, and fully open via a telescoping
mechanism and rotate 360' to be able to focus air movement. They are a machined
aluminum part. They sell for $125.00 each.
Flightline AC # is 541-330-5466
John S.
---------------------------------
Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
---------------------------------
Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
Well....both types of vents will work. It just depends on what you do with
those "dumbo/elephant ears" on the lower corners of the panel. The standard
Van's vents use a pretty large flange with 4 screw holes in them. The vents
I chose to procure do not have the flange on them and as a result the size
of that ear can be nearly 1" smaller overall than the flanged ones. We
looked at getting those, but I figured as replacements we wouldn't sell many
because people probably already had the higher buck aluminum ones from
Van's, and new builders would like the smaller area required by the
"flangeless" vents. While they still have a flange on them it's only about
1/8" around the circumferance and the vent is held in place by screwing on
the plenum from the back. At least that's what I prefer, and so that's what
we ended up with! I've been flying behind the smaller ones for years in
my -6 and they work great, but the larger ones will inevitably allow for
more airflow.
If there's any lesson to be learned out of this it's to file those worthless
plastic ones in the garbage the minute you get them (us old little RV
builders learned that lesson long ago) - but that's just my opinion!
Cheers,
Stein.
do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 12:11 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
Well I'm confused, which one's work on the RV10?
SteinAir, Inc. wrote
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance for first flight |
Lubricating UHMW BlocksOther than wanting the insurance, well for
insurance in case of an unwanted event, Does the DAR or other require
that the builder show insurance for the inspection? Is insurance even a
requirement- like it is for a car?
Not saying I don't want insurance just trying to understand if one is
"required" to have it versus chosing to have it.
Some people, for example, with no or little flight time may be limited
to finding insurance, does that mean they can't take their chances until
meeting the requirement?
So other than comments about whether it's right or wrong for not having
it- just want to know is it required?
Thanks!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Russell Daves
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 3:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
I also went with AIG, through NationAir and they waived make and model
time in an RV-10 for both me and my buddy who I added as a named pilot.
We both have in excess of 1400 hours. I have almost 300 TT in an RV-6A
but my buddy doesn't have any RV time.
Insured for $200,000.00 for less than $3800.00 premium.
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying - going to paint shop tomorrow
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
I had a near anxiety attack causing lesson yesterday over my
insurance. My machine is all signed off and ready to go for Saturday,
so I called the insurance folks I had spoken to during Sun-n-Fun
prepared to bind the insurance. While at Sun-n-Fun, I had been told
that my 5,500+ hours, extensive RV-6 and other low wing time (Cherokee,
etc) would count as close enough to the RV-10 so no -10 time was
required. Well, things have changed and I was told from several
insurers that between 2-5 hours Dual was required and one company said
they wouldn't insure during the test period no matter what. I was heart
broken over possibly not being able to fly this weekend.
Fortunately, after many calls to every agent I could think of, the
folks at Falcon Insurance hooked me up with AIG and approved no
experience requirements but with an increased deductible and reduced
liability during the test phase - WHEW! I am certainly a firm believer
in experience in make and model and don't want to downplay the benefits,
but I survived my Q-2 and Skybolt with no make/model time and have
enough experience in enough types that I'm confident all will go well,
and apparently so does Falcon. This is certainly not the right answer
for everyone, but I wanted to stress that the industry has become more
conservative regarding the RV-10 (one broker told me they were leaning
toward 250 hrs TT and an instrument rating!) so I'd recommend folks plan
ahead and get the training if required.
Marcus
40286
Do not archive
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 13
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| Subject: | Cleaveland Tool Sale |
I wanted to announce a rare sale that we are having at Cleaveland
Aircraft
Tool. We try and keep prices reasonable all the time rather than
running
specials, however our inventory level is just too high after the summer
show
season has come to an end. As a result we have decided to have an
"inventory reduction sale" or a give-away sale as I like to call it as
all
of the items are at, near, or below our cost.
Some of the items are:
Clekos (you will never see Wedgeloc brand clekos at this price)
3M wheels
Air Drills
Wire Twisters
Unibits and hole cutter sets
Dimple dies
Many others.
Check out the whole list at
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/specials.asp
be sure to click into the "special pricing" on each item to see the sale
price.
The items will drop off as inventory levels come down so act fast.
Retroactive discounts will not be given for previous orders.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: please remove me from the list- resolution |
Although we are always willing to help with the buildiong, this is one
you'll have to do for yourself.
****************************************
*** How to Subscribe and Unsubscribe ***
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Simply go to the Web Page shown below and enter your email
address and
select the List(s) that you wish to subscribe or unsubscribed
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may also use the handy "Find" function to determine the exact
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The Subscribe/Unsubscribe web page is:
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----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Ganster
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 4:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: please remove me from the list
Message 15
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| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
Looks like the vent from an old Camaro.
Your post got truncated at the most important part - the price! Don't
leave us in suspense!
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John N.
Strain II
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:03:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John N. Strain II" <aircarepros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
I am attatching a photo of even another option for vents. These
vents are the most highly styled available and provide more air movement
than any of the others that have been mentioned. They were displayed in
the Flightline AC booth as an upgrade option to our ac systems. They
mount thru a skin (overhead or panel) by drilling a 2.5" hole and are
held in place by a threaded fitting that can accept a 2.5" hose, or they
are trimmed to allow for use in an overhead panel. They fully close
off, partially open, and fully open via a telescoping mechanism and
rotate 360' to be able to focus air movement. They are a machined
aluminum part. They sell for
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
So, Stein, you need about 2 inches of panel space for the 1.25" vent and
3 inches of space for the 2" vent?
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SteinAir,
Inc.
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 12:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
Well....both types of vents will work. It just depends on what you do
with those "dumbo/elephant ears" on the lower corners of the panel. The
standard Van's vents use a pretty large flange with 4 screw holes in
them. The vents I chose to procure do not have the flange on them and
as a result the size of that ear can be nearly 1" smaller overall than
the flanged ones. We looked at getting those, but I figured as
replacements we wouldn't sell many because people probably already had
the higher buck aluminum ones from Van's, and new builders would like
the smaller area required by the "flangeless" vents. While they still
have a flange on them it's only about 1/8" around the circumferance and
the vent is held in place by screwing on the plenum from the back. At
least that's what I prefer, and so that's what we ended up with! I've
been flying behind the smaller ones for years in my -6 and they work
great, but the larger ones will inevitably allow for more airflow.
If there's any lesson to be learned out of this it's to file those
worthless plastic ones in the garbage the minute you get them (us old
little RV builders learned that lesson long ago) - but that's just my
opinion!
Cheers,
Stein.
do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 12:11 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
Well I'm confused, which one's work on the RV10?
SteinAir, Inc. wrote
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance for first flight |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Pascal wrote:
> Other than wanting the insurance, well for insurance in case of an
> unwanted event, Does the DAR or other require that the builder show
> insurance for the inspection? Is insurance even a requirement- like it
> is for a car?
No, unless perhaps there's a state-by-state rule, I've never heard
of such a thing. You could probably go without insurance if you
choose to accept all the risks.
> Not saying I don't want insurance just trying to understand if one is
> "required" to have it versus chosing to have it.
> Some people, for example, with no or little flight time may be limited
> to finding insurance, does that mean they can't take their chances until
> meeting the requirement?
>
I was told that I could choose to not bind coverage and do my flyoff
without insurance, and that the time would still count toward the
total time in make/model. What they DON'T want is someone to start
the insurance process, but not finish it, and fly without it. They
figure that it would then be possible for an uninsured person to
crash and have the spouse still claim they should have been insured,
just because there was some preliminary work done to get coverage
going in the future. So they really want to stay away from you until
you are ready to bind insurance. I did get AIG too, and they did have
decreased coverage during the flyoff, and I believe a 10% deductible
during that time. They required 5 hours of Transition Training from
me, with me having just a hair under 500 Total Time and an instrument
rating. I was told that if I did do the flyoff period and THEN
applied for insurance, I would probably get a better rate right
off the bat because of having a bunch of time in type. Not that
this would be a good idea, but just to show that it is possible.
I figured if all else failed, and I couldn't get transition training
and the whole process fell apart, that's what I'd do...but I didn't
end up having to. Transition training is worthwhile, but a current
and experience pilot would really not need more than a couple hours.
So no, I don't think it's required, but again, it may be
a state law or something in some state...I've just never
heard of such a thing.
Tim
> So other than comments about whether it's right or wrong for not having
> it- just want to know is it required?
> Thanks!
> Pascal
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Russell Daves <mailto:dav1111@cox.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 16, 2006 3:12 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
>
> I also went with AIG, through NationAir and they waived make and
> model time in an RV-10 for both me and my buddy who I added as a
> named pilot. We both have in excess of 1400 hours. I have almost
> 300 TT in an RV-6A but my buddy doesn't have any RV time.
>
> Insured for $200,000.00 for less than $3800.00 premium.
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV Flying - going to paint shop tomorrow
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Marcus Cooper <mailto:coop85@bellsouth.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:03 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
>
> I had a near anxiety attack causing lesson yesterday over my
> insurance. My machine is all signed off and ready to go for
> Saturday, so I called the insurance folks I had spoken to during
> Sun-n-Fun prepared to bind the insurance. While at Sun-n-Fun, I
> had been told that my 5,500+ hours, extensive RV-6 and other low
> wing time (Cherokee, etc) would count as close enough to the
> RV-10 so no -10 time was required. Well, things have changed
> and I was told from several insurers that between 2-5 hours Dual
> was required and one company said they wouldnt insure during
> the test period no matter what. I was heart broken over
> possibly not being able to fly this weekend.
>
>
>
> Fortunately, after many calls to every agent I could think of,
> the folks at Falcon Insurance hooked me up with AIG and approved
> no experience requirements but with an increased deductible and
> reduced liability during the test phase WHEW! I am certainly
> a firm believer in experience in make and model and dont want
> to downplay the benefits, but I survived my Q-2 and Skybolt with
> no make/model time and have enough experience in enough types
> that Im confident all will go well, and apparently so does
> Falcon. This is certainly not the right answer for everyone,
> but I wanted to stress that the industry has become more
> conservative regarding the RV-10 (one broker told me they were
> leaning toward 250 hrs TT and an instrument rating!) so Id
> recommend folks plan ahead and get the training if required.
>
>
>
> Marcus
>
> 40286
>
>
>
>
>
> Do not archive
>
> *
>
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
> *
>
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance for first flight |
The only instance that comes to mind for " required " insurance would be
a lender requiring hull insurance if the plane was collateral for a
loan. Other than that, you're on your own. ( at least here in Ohio ).
The wisdom of "going naked" is different issue though.
John Hasbrouck
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Overhead Console - Lighting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
For some others that are utilizing the Chevrolet overhead console, I
have found some decent LED lights that are a perfect retrofit. I wanted
to ditch the factory white ones so began playing around fabricating some
bulbs - they worked great but were time consuming to fabricate. I
checked at my favorite store and found some options to investigate. I
bought 4 Red LED bulbs for the map lights and a blue for the dome light.
I bought several others to try out but these are the best I found. All
look great. The seller on eBay that I used was "velocityled_1" there are
likely others but he was super fast and very professional to deal with.
They are set for 12V automotive application so are already set with
resistors and diode for current protection.
The power draw is 0.05A each - all 5 lights lit up .25A
Eyeball - "VELOCITY LEDS SUPER RED HIGH POWER LED BULB 194 168 158"
- 2 for 8.99+S&H
Console - "SUPER BLUE HIGH POWER LED BULB 211-2 212-2 214-2"
- 1 for 6.99 + S&H (can combine)
Just another custom option.
Byron - #40253 - N253RV assigned - more finishing, wiring, and firewall
forward
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Insurance for building |
With all the talk about flying insurance I thought I would ask who
everyone is using for builders insurance, if they are. I have reached
the point where I have enough invested that I don't want the risk
hanging out there anymore.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Buildus Interuptus due to moving
Do Not Archive
Recent RV-10 Build Activity
<http://www.mykitlog.com/display_project.php?project_id=22>
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 5:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
I also went with AIG, through NationAir and they waived make and model
time in an RV-10 for both me and my buddy who I added as a named pilot.
We both have in excess of 1400 hours. I have almost 300 TT in an RV-6A
but my buddy doesn't have any RV time.
Insured for $200,000.00 for less than $3800.00 premium.
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying - going to paint shop tomorrow
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper <mailto:coop85@bellsouth.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
I had a near anxiety attack causing lesson yesterday over my
insurance. My machine is all signed off and ready to go for Saturday,
so I called the insurance folks I had spoken to during Sun-n-Fun
prepared to bind the insurance. While at Sun-n-Fun, I had been told
that my 5,500+ hours, extensive RV-6 and other low wing time (Cherokee,
etc) would count as close enough to the RV-10 so no -10 time was
required. Well, things have changed and I was told from several
insurers that between 2-5 hours Dual was required and one company said
they wouldn't insure during the test period no matter what. I was heart
broken over possibly not being able to fly this weekend.
Fortunately, after many calls to every agent I could think of,
the folks at Falcon Insurance hooked me up with AIG and approved no
experience requirements but with an increased deductible and reduced
liability during the test phase - WHEW! I am certainly a firm believer
in experience in make and model and don't want to downplay the benefits,
but I survived my Q-2 and Skybolt with no make/model time and have
enough experience in enough types that I'm confident all will go well,
and apparently so does Falcon. This is certainly not the right answer
for everyone, but I wanted to stress that the industry has become more
conservative regarding the RV-10 (one broker told me they were leaning
toward 250 hrs TT and an instrument rating!) so I'd recommend folks plan
ahead and get the training if required.
Marcus
40286
Do not archive
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
$125.00 each
Tim Dawson-Townsend <Tdawson@avidyne.com> wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Looks like the vent from
an old Camaro.
Your post got truncated at the most important part the price! Dont leave us
in suspense!
TDT
40025
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John N. Strain II
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:03:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John N. Strain II" <aircarepros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
I am attatching a photo of even another option for vents. These vents are
the most highly styled available and provide more air movement than any of the
others that have been mentioned. They were displayed in the Flightline AC booth
as an upgrade option to our ac systems. They mount thru a skin (overhead
or panel) by drilling a 2.5" hole and are held in place by a threaded fitting
that can accept a 2.5" hose, or they are trimmed to allow for use in an overhead
panel. They fully close off, partially open, and fully open via a telescoping
mechanism and rotate 360' to be able to focus air movement. They are a machined
aluminum part. They sell for
---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Overhead Console |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Belue, Kevin" <KBelue@DRS-TEM.com>
I have an overhead console from a '95 Chevy Blazer that I've decided not to
use. It is in used condition and looks good, except for a slight cut in the
fabric on one side. I'd like to sell it - $37 including shipping in the US
only, which is what I paid.
Kevin D. Belue
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
You are correct. The small ones need a hole (OD) or 2", the large ones need
a hole (OD) of 2.8" or nearly 3".
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 2:46 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
So, Stein, you need about 2 inches of panel space for the 1.25 vent and 3
inches of space for the 2 vent?
TDT
40025
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Overhead Console |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Kevin
I will take your console. I will be out of town until Monday. We can
discuss details then.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Belue, Kevin
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead Console
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Belue, Kevin" <KBelue@DRS-TEM.com>
I have an overhead console from a '95 Chevy Blazer that I've decided not to
use. It is in used condition and looks good, except for a slight cut in the
fabric on one side. I'd like to sell it - $37 including shipping in the US
only, which is what I paid.
Kevin D. Belue
--
--
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console - Lighting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
another link to LEDs. http://www.superbrightleds.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 3:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Console - Lighting
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
>
> For some others that are utilizing the Chevrolet overhead console, I
> have found some decent LED lights that are a perfect retrofit. I wanted
> to ditch the factory white ones so began playing around fabricating some
> bulbs - they worked great but were time consuming to fabricate. I
> checked at my favorite store and found some options to investigate. I
> bought 4 Red LED bulbs for the map lights and a blue for the dome light.
> I bought several others to try out but these are the best I found. All
> look great. The seller on eBay that I used was "velocityled_1" there are
> likely others but he was super fast and very professional to deal with.
> They are set for 12V automotive application so are already set with
> resistors and diode for current protection.
>
> The power draw is 0.05A each - all 5 lights lit up .25A
>
> Eyeball - "VELOCITY LEDS SUPER RED HIGH POWER LED BULB 194 168 158"
> - 2 for 8.99+S&H
> Console - "SUPER BLUE HIGH POWER LED BULB 211-2 212-2 214-2"
> - 1 for 6.99 + S&H (can combine)
>
> Just another custom option.
>
> Byron - #40253 - N253RV assigned - more finishing, wiring, and firewall
> forward
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance for building |
Lubricating UHMW BlocksFalcon Insurance Agency got me builders insurance
through AIG? for 1% of stated value. Must be able to prove stated value
with invoices
----- Original Message -----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance for building
With all the talk about flying insurance I thought I would ask who
everyone is using for builders insurance, if they are. I have reached
the point where I have enough invested that I don't want the risk
hanging out there anymore.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Buildus Interuptus due to moving
Do Not Archive
Recent RV-10 Build Activity
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 5:13 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
I also went with AIG, through NationAir and they waived make and model
time in an RV-10 for both me and my buddy who I added as a named pilot.
We both have in excess of 1400 hours. I have almost 300 TT in an RV-6A
but my buddy doesn't have any RV time.
Insured for $200,000.00 for less than $3800.00 premium.
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying - going to paint shop tomorrow
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
I had a near anxiety attack causing lesson yesterday over my
insurance. My machine is all signed off and ready to go for Saturday,
so I called the insurance folks I had spoken to during Sun-n-Fun
prepared to bind the insurance. While at Sun-n-Fun, I had been told
that my 5,500+ hours, extensive RV-6 and other low wing time (Cherokee,
etc) would count as close enough to the RV-10 so no -10 time was
required. Well, things have changed and I was told from several
insurers that between 2-5 hours Dual was required and one company said
they wouldn't insure during the test period no matter what. I was heart
broken over possibly not being able to fly this weekend.
Fortunately, after many calls to every agent I could think of, the
folks at Falcon Insurance hooked me up with AIG and approved no
experience requirements but with an increased deductible and reduced
liability during the test phase - WHEW! I am certainly a firm believer
in experience in make and model and don't want to downplay the benefits,
but I survived my Q-2 and Skybolt with no make/model time and have
enough experience in enough types that I'm confident all will go well,
and apparently so does Falcon. This is certainly not the right answer
for everyone, but I wanted to stress that the industry has become more
conservative regarding the RV-10 (one broker told me they were leaning
toward 250 hrs TT and an instrument rating!) so I'd recommend folks plan
ahead and get the training if required.
Marcus
40286
Do not archive
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 27
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| Subject: | Insurance for building |
I've had good luck with Avemco on builder's insurance, however I wouldn't
use them for the flying insurance due to their rates.
Marcus
40286
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 6:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance for building
With all the talk about flying insurance I thought I would ask who everyone
is using for builders insurance, if they are. I have reached the point
where I have enough invested that I don't want the risk hanging out there
anymore.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Buildus Interuptus due to moving
Do Not Archive
<http://www.mykitlog.com/display_project.php?project_id=22> Recent RV-10
Build Activity
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 5:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
I also went with AIG, through NationAir and they waived make and model time
in an RV-10 for both me and my buddy who I added as a named pilot. We both
have in excess of 1400 hours. I have almost 300 TT in an RV-6A but my buddy
doesn't have any RV time.
Insured for $200,000.00 for less than $3800.00 premium.
Russ Daves
N710RV Flying - going to paint shop tomorrow
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper <mailto:coop85@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance for first flight
I had a near anxiety attack causing lesson yesterday over my insurance. My
machine is all signed off and ready to go for Saturday, so I called the
insurance folks I had spoken to during Sun-n-Fun prepared to bind the
insurance. While at Sun-n-Fun, I had been told that my 5,500+ hours,
extensive RV-6 and other low wing time (Cherokee, etc) would count as close
enough to the RV-10 so no -10 time was required. Well, things have changed
and I was told from several insurers that between 2-5 hours Dual was
required and one company said they wouldn't insure during the test period no
matter what. I was heart broken over possibly not being able to fly this
weekend.
Fortunately, after many calls to every agent I could think of, the folks at
Falcon Insurance hooked me up with AIG and approved no experience
requirements but with an increased deductible and reduced liability during
the test phase - WHEW! I am certainly a firm believer in experience in make
and model and don't want to downplay the benefits, but I survived my Q-2 and
Skybolt with no make/model time and have enough experience in enough types
that I'm confident all will go well, and apparently so does Falcon. This is
certainly not the right answer for everyone, but I wanted to stress that the
industry has become more conservative regarding the RV-10 (one broker told
me they were leaning toward 250 hrs TT and an instrument rating!) so I'd
recommend folks plan ahead and get the training if required.
Marcus
40286
Do not archive
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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