Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:56 AM - Re: Forest of Tabs (Richard Sipp)
2. 08:51 AM - Re: Aircraft Door Seal sample (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
3. 09:00 AM - Re: Aircraft Door Seal sample (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
4. 10:46 AM - PIREP on XRX PCAS (David McNeill)
5. 11:05 AM - Hugo-tip for home depot shoppers ()
6. 01:12 PM - Re: PIREP on XRX PCAS (Marcus Cooper)
7. 01:17 PM - Avionics cooling (Marcus Cooper)
8. 01:19 PM - Re: PIREP on XRX PCAS (Werner Schneider)
9. 01:20 PM - NAV Reception (Marcus Cooper)
10. 02:00 PM - Re: Avionics cooling (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
11. 02:19 PM - Another Fuse Gotcha - step 29 (Chris Johnston)
12. 02:22 PM - Re: PIREP on XRX PCAS (David McNeill)
13. 02:46 PM - Re: NAV Reception (LessDragProd@aol.com)
14. 03:10 PM - Re: Servicing air in the tires (Wayne Edgerton)
15. 03:23 PM - Rudder cable fairings (Ben Westfall)
16. 03:29 PM - Re: Aircraft Door Seal sample (Kelly McMullen)
17. 03:38 PM - Re: Rudder cable fairings (PJ Seipel)
18. 03:41 PM - Re: Hugo-tip for home depot shoppers (David Maib)
19. 05:52 PM - Re: Rudder cable fairings (Chris Johnston)
20. 06:15 PM - Re: Servicing air in the tires (Roger Standley)
21. 06:47 PM - Re: NAV Reception (Marcus Cooper)
22. 06:47 PM - Re: Avionics cooling (Jesse Saint)
23. 07:09 PM - Re: Avionics cooling (Marcus Cooper)
24. 07:28 PM - Nose wheel problem (Wayne Edgerton)
25. 07:33 PM - Fuselage covers (Marcus Cooper)
26. 07:34 PM - Access to tries for air (Wayne Edgerton)
27. 07:37 PM - Re: Avionics cooling (Tim Olson)
28. 07:55 PM - Re: Fuselage covers (Rob Kermanj)
29. 08:39 PM - Re: Van's Homecoming (Bill DeRouchey)
30. 08:57 PM - Re: Van's Homecoming (PILOTDDS@AOL.COM)
31. 09:21 PM - Re: NAV Reception (LessDragProd@AOL.COM)
32. 11:24 PM - Re: Nose wheel problem (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Forest of Tabs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 8:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Forest of Tabs
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
>
> Where did you find those connectors?
> steve
They were supplied with the panel by Aerotronics. Sorry I don't have the
source, I am sure Aerotronics would be glad to help.
Dick
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>>
>> Where have people mounted their forest of grounding tabs?
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Fuse/Finishing/Panel
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> Here is one option. There are two similar ground connectors mounted above
> and below the triangular reinforcement where the firewall and top longeron
> meet. There are at least thirty ground pins available in each connector.
> The paint was removed under the mounting. I am planning to also terminate
> the large ground lead from the engine on the same triangular
> reinforcement.
>
> Dick Sipp #65
> Finishing
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Door Seal sample |
It's memory foam...and for a Piper they have an STC...Lowe's or HomeDepot do
not carry STC's...LOL
Patrick
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Door Seal sample |
In a message dated 8/27/2006 12:32:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kellym@aviating.com writes:
Contrary to Patrick's experience, I have it on my plane, no problem, but
I rarely carry anyone but my SO..so maybe we are more careful than the
average passenger. It isn't a big deal to splice in a replacement piece
if it does get damaged.
Kelly for the most part the damage was caused by the rivet heads that pulled
the tapped side away from the inside door...the damage/crap part was mainly
on the inside door jam and not on the opening as Dick likes to discuss and
tell us that is our going in and out of the door. The product from the guy in
Washington State is placed on the door...the STC was written for the wrong
location...
Patrick
Message 4
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| Subject: | PIREP on XRX PCAS |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
installed an XRX traffic unit in the Glastar. Having a unit to provide both
distance and altitude to the traffic is quite helpful. We set the unit to
check for transponder replies +- 2000 ft. The traffic is more easily spotted
when the altitude is about our level. The previous unit the MRX simply gave
distance which could have been far above or below. Also helpful to know
whether the conflicting traffic is climbing into our altitude or descending
into it.
More useful than mode S because it identifies traffic that is interrogated
by ATC, military aircraft and TCAS (airlines and corporate) equipped
airplanes.
At $500 it is far more cost effective than Mode S transponder ($3000) and
TCAD at about $5000.
In addition it provides an internal altimeter showing pressure altitude
or/and your Mode A or Mode C data.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Hugo-tip for home depot shoppers |
Here is my tip of the day for the builders who like to shop at home depot aviaton
dep.
show also some of the useful uses ,
if you allready assy the top fowd. fuselage , disregard.
Hugo ,40456
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | PIREP on XRX PCAS |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Sounds pretty good, especially since I couldn't find some potentially factor
traffic to day until after they had passed. I went to the Zaon Flight
Systems website and it shows the XRX model listing for $1795 and the less
capable MRX for $499. Where did you get the XRX for $500?
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: PIREP on XRX PCAS
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
installed an XRX traffic unit in the Glastar. Having a unit to provide both
distance and altitude to the traffic is quite helpful. We set the unit to
check for transponder replies +- 2000 ft. The traffic is more easily spotted
when the altitude is about our level. The previous unit the MRX simply gave
distance which could have been far above or below. Also helpful to know
whether the conflicting traffic is climbing into our altitude or descending
into it.
More useful than mode S because it identifies traffic that is interrogated
by ATC, military aircraft and TCAS (airlines and corporate) equipped
airplanes.
At $500 it is far more cost effective than Mode S transponder ($3000) and
TCAD at about $5000.
In addition it provides an internal altimeter showing pressure altitude
or/and your Mode A or Mode C data.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Avionics cooling |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I have 12 hours on the RV-10 and for the most part all is going well. I
have a fairly warm tunnel that I'll apply the techniques offered here to
fix. I have two other issues I'll address in separate messages.
My avionics are getting REALLY warm, in fact the DYNON is running really
slow (hit the timer function and it counts up at about 30% normal speed).
What sort of methods are you guys using to keep things under control. I
remember several comments about computer fans and that seems like a good
idea. I also considered running a blast tube off the ventilation scoop and
direct fresh, cool air behind the panel at a slight loss to passenger
comfort.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: PIREP on XRX PCAS |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
Hi David,
interesting indeed, but I found it for 1795$ the MRX is 499$, if I can
get it somewhere for 500$ it's a done deal, however the aircraft which
are not flying with the transponder on are the most dangerouse one, I
had more then one near in the last 3 weeks with such traffic.
br
Werner
David McNeill wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> installed an XRX traffic unit in the Glastar. Having a unit to provide
> both distance and altitude to the traffic is quite helpful. We set the
> unit to check for transponder replies +- 2000 ft. The traffic is more
> easily spotted when the altitude is about our level. The previous unit
> the MRX simply gave distance which could have been far above or
> below. Also helpful to know whether the conflicting traffic is
> climbing into our altitude or descending into it.
>
> More useful than mode S because it identifies traffic that is
> interrogated by ATC, military aircraft and TCAS (airlines and
> corporate) equipped airplanes.
>
> At $500 it is far more cost effective than Mode S transponder ($3000)
> and TCAD at about $5000.
>
> In addition it provides an internal altimeter showing pressure
> altitude or/and your Mode A or Mode C data.
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Second question: I am not getting any NAV signal to my Garmin 480 and the
SL-30 is very weak, usually non-existent as I cruise around trying different
stations. They are on separate antennas, one Bob Archer antenna in each
wingtip. Any suggestions to improve the reception would be deeply
appreciated.
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics cooling |
Marcus,
I have a transponder that is overheating. As a temporary fix, I did exactly
what you mentioned. I connected a piece of scat tubing to the passenger vent
with a hose clamp and pointed it up toward the stack under the panel.
Incidentally, I have been able to keep passengers happy in hot weather by pointing
the left side vent across the cockpit.
As a more permanent fix I plan on installing some strategically mounted
computer fans.
Jim
In a message dated 8/27/2006 4:19:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
coop85@bellsouth.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I have 12 hours on the RV-10 and for the most part all is going well. I
have a fairly warm tunnel that I'll apply the techniques offered here to
fix. I have two other issues I'll address in separate messages.
My avionics are getting REALLY warm, in fact the DYNON is running really
slow (hit the timer function and it counts up at about 30% normal speed).
What sort of methods are you guys using to keep things under control. I
remember several comments about computer fans and that seems like a good
idea. I also considered running a blast tube off the ventilation scoop and
direct fresh, cool air behind the panel at a slight loss to passenger
comfort.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Another Fuse Gotcha - step 29 |
hey all -
i'm merrily riveting along towards the end of step 29, and as i'm
riveting F-1040 (upper fuse channel), i notice that there are nutplate
holes on the upper flange that have no nutplates. furthermore, after
you rivet it to the bulkhead, you won't be able to get at one of the
noles needed for one of the nutplates. I noticed many steps later that
there's an access cover that screws into these nonexistant nutplates. i
found a little reference to this in the archives and i'll be drilling
out a couple rivets to install these nutplates now. NOTE - IT WOULD BE
MUCH MORE DIFFICULT AFTER THE FORWARD FUSE SIDE SKIN IS RIVETED ON.
this is yet another shortcoming in the (now becoming infamous around
here) step 29.
fyi
cj
#40410
fuse
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: PIREP on XRX PCAS |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
My confusion ; I got the $499 version apparently confused the letters.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 1:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: PIREP on XRX PCAS
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> Sounds pretty good, especially since I couldn't find some potentially
> factor
> traffic to day until after they had passed. I went to the Zaon Flight
> Systems website and it shows the XRX model listing for $1795 and the less
> capable MRX for $499. Where did you get the XRX for $500?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
> Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 1:45 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: PIREP on XRX PCAS
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> installed an XRX traffic unit in the Glastar. Having a unit to provide
> both
> distance and altitude to the traffic is quite helpful. We set the unit to
> check for transponder replies +- 2000 ft. The traffic is more easily
> spotted
>
> when the altitude is about our level. The previous unit the MRX simply
> gave
> distance which could have been far above or below. Also helpful to know
> whether the conflicting traffic is climbing into our altitude or
> descending
> into it.
>
> More useful than mode S because it identifies traffic that is interrogated
> by ATC, military aircraft and TCAS (airlines and corporate) equipped
> airplanes.
>
> At $500 it is far more cost effective than Mode S transponder ($3000) and
> TCAD at about $5000.
>
> In addition it provides an internal altimeter showing pressure altitude
> or/and your Mode A or Mode C data.
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: NAV Reception |
Make certain that the base of the Archer antenna is grounded to the wing
skin aluminum along the full length of the antenna base.
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 08/27/2006 1:25:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
coop85@bellsouth.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Second question: I am not getting any NAV signal to my Garmin 480 and the
SL-30 is very weak, usually non-existent as I cruise around trying different
stations. They are on separate antennas, one Bob Archer antenna in each
wingtip. Any suggestions to improve the reception would be deeply
appreciated.
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Servicing air in the tires |
Roger,
I don't know why you are a little low on air, maybe your wife is letting
the air out so you wont fly, but in my case sometimes it is necessary
to add some air to ones tires and having to take off the wheels pants
just to add a little air seems like there must be an easier way.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Rudder cable fairings |
I am in the middle of riveting the tailcone and wondering if anyone fitted
the rudder cable fairings (from avery) at this time? Thought it would be a
ton easier w/o the back deck in place. How are people attaching them? Also
how far forward or back from the center of the hole do you have to install
them to leave adequate room for the cable? I was planning to rivet and
proseal them in place covering all but the last 1/3 of the hole or so.
Anyone got any pictures or web links covering the installation? I know they
are probably pretty simple but I thought I would ask.
-Ben
#40579 riveting the tailcone
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Door Seal sample |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
Well, I guess the shop heads on Piper rivets are sharper than those on
the Mooney door. Don't know why that would be the case. He does NOT have
an STC. His seal is FAA/PMA approved for Piper, Mooney and Cessna
aircraft. The difference is log book entry vs filing a 337.
GRANSCOTT@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/27/2006 12:32:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> kellym@aviating.com writes:
>
> Contrary to Patrick's experience, I have it on my plane, no problem,
> but
> I rarely carry anyone but my SO..so maybe we are more careful than the
> average passenger. It isn't a big deal to splice in a replacement piece
> if it does get damaged.
>
> Kelly for the most part the damage was caused by the rivet heads that
> pulled the tapped side away from the inside door...the damage/crap part
> was mainly on the inside door jam and not on the opening as Dick likes
> to discuss and tell us that is our going in and out of the door. The
> product from the guy in Washington State is placed on the door...the STC
> was written for the wrong location...
>
> Patrick
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder cable fairings |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
My recommendation would be to wait until you've got the cable. If you
don't leave enough room to get the ends of the cable through, then
you'll end up taking it back off to run the cable.
PJ
RV-10 #40032
do not archive
Ben Westfall wrote:
> I am in the middle of riveting the tailcone and wondering if anyone fitted
> the rudder cable fairings (from avery) at this time? Thought it would be a
> ton easier w/o the back deck in place. How are people attaching them? Also
> how far forward or back from the center of the hole do you have to install
> them to leave adequate room for the cable? I was planning to rivet and
> proseal them in place covering all but the last 1/3 of the hole or so.
>
>
>
> Anyone got any pictures or web links covering the installation? I know they
> are probably pretty simple but I thought I would ask.
>
>
>
> -Ben
>
> #40579 riveting the tailcone
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Hugo-tip for home depot shoppers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: David Maib <dmaib@mac.com>
Sorry, I don't have a clue what this post means.
David Maib
RV-10 QB
40559
On Aug 27, 2006, at 1:04 PM, gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
Here is my tip of the day for the builders who like to shop at home
depot aviaton dep.
show also some of the useful uses ,
if you allready assy the top fowd. fuselage , disregard.
Hugo ,40456
do not archive
<switch aternative.jpg>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Rudder cable fairings |
i actually didn't like the way they looked if you put them far enough
forward to be able to remove the rudder cable, and i also didn't like
the idea of not being able to remove the rudder cable, so i put in 3
nutplates, and i positioned the fairing so that it captures the rudder
cable sleeve nice and snug. also, if you do it before you put the skin
on the tailcone you'll be happier. Much easier.
here's a link to mine...
http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Tailcone/tailcone8.htm
cj
#40410
fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of PJ Seipel
Sent: Sun 8/27/2006 3:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder cable fairings
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
My recommendation would be to wait until you've got the cable. If you
don't leave enough room to get the ends of the cable through, then
you'll end up taking it back off to run the cable.
PJ
RV-10 #40032
do not archive
Ben Westfall wrote:
> I am in the middle of riveting the tailcone and wondering if anyone
fitted
> the rudder cable fairings (from avery) at this time? Thought it would
be a
> ton easier w/o the back deck in place. How are people attaching them?
Also
> how far forward or back from the center of the hole do you have to
install
> them to leave adequate room for the cable? I was planning to rivet
and
> proseal them in place covering all but the last 1/3 of the hole or so.
>
>
>
> Anyone got any pictures or web links covering the installation? I
know they
> are probably pretty simple but I thought I would ask.
>
>
>
> -Ben
>
> #40579 riveting the tailcone
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Servicing air in the tires |
Hi Wayne,
Not totally beyond possibility, but you my be giving my wife a little
more "mechanical" credit than she deserves. I guess that I am really
concerned about is our approach to maintenance. Most of us probably
learned to fly at a flight school or FBO where the goal was "keep them
airplanes in the air". We did our preflight and found a tire low or an
oil smear under the cowl or a screw missing or the battery needed a jump
to start or fuel stains on top of the wings and were told by the 18 year
old office gal that "Oh, it's safe to fly. We are keeping an eye on it".
Then you went flying and had the radio quit because the voltage
regulator was shot or all the fuel transferred to the right tank because
the left fuel cap wouldn't pressure seal or have a jarring landing or
worse, ground looping, because the tail wheel went flat. As holder of a
Repairman's Certificate, we have to ensure that the plane stays safe and
no one will be looking over our shoulder to catch us if we get sloppy.
You go to the hangar and the left main tire is low on your brand new
RV-10. You have just installed the wheel pants after the initial engine
break-in. You have been real good about taking the cowl off for a
complete inspection after those initial flights. So you pump a little
air into the low tire and go fly. Would you have gone flying if you had
known a big old fat metal screw was in that tire? Or a cut was on the
side of the tire? We have spent a lot of time building these wonderful
machines, not to mention the $$$$s. How far do you let things go before
you make sure of the cause an take pre-emptive action? Our flight
training probably hasn't prepared us very well for plane ownership and
maintenance and developing a good and safe maintenance approach. That
said, I will probably install quick access on the wheel pants and
external battery plug but not now, later after the plane has some hours
on it. Don't want to be tempted to taking the easy way out on the new
plane.
Roger #40291
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton<mailto:wayne.e@grandecom.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Servicing air in the tires
Roger,
I don't know why you are a little low on air, maybe your wife is
letting the air out so you wont fly, but in my case sometimes it is
necessary to add some air to ones tires and having to take off the
wheels pants just to add a little air seems like there must be an easier
way.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
do not archive
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
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Message 21
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I attached the nutplates through the antenna base that hold the wingtips on
per the instructions. Is anyone going beyond this?
Marcus
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LessDragProd@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NAV Reception
Make certain that the base of the Archer antenna is grounded to the wing
skin aluminum along the full length of the antenna base.
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 08/27/2006 1:25:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
coop85@bellsouth.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Second question: I am not getting any NAV signal to my Garmin 480 and the
SL-30 is very weak, usually non-existent as I cruise around trying different
stations. They are on separate antennas, one Bob Archer antenna in each
wingtip. Any suggestions to improve the reception would be deeply
appreciated.
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Avionics cooling |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We have installed an AmeriKing cooling fan 3 or 5 ports with lines running
to the back of the radio stack, but nothing for the Dynons. Haven't had any
problems. Do you have a way of checking the temp at specific places behind
the instrument panel to make sure it is heat that is causing the problem in
the Dynon? I would agree that running a decent sized hose from the right
side air vent to somewhere behind the panel for a flight might narrow down
the possible problems.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Avionics cooling
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I have 12 hours on the RV-10 and for the most part all is going well. I
have a fairly warm tunnel that I'll apply the techniques offered here to
fix. I have two other issues I'll address in separate messages.
My avionics are getting REALLY warm, in fact the DYNON is running really
slow (hit the timer function and it counts up at about 30% normal speed).
What sort of methods are you guys using to keep things under control. I
remember several comments about computer fans and that seems like a good
idea. I also considered running a blast tube off the ventilation scoop and
direct fresh, cool air behind the panel at a slight loss to passenger
comfort.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Avionics cooling |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I think I'll order the cooling fan as well, probably should have done that
from the start but it didn't even occur to me.
One detail I didn't include on the Dynon, it actually did it's "I'm really
getting hot here" trick where it turns grayscale and says the temp is too
hot. I'll try ducting some air short term while the various fans show up.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 9:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Avionics cooling
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We have installed an AmeriKing cooling fan 3 or 5 ports with lines running
to the back of the radio stack, but nothing for the Dynons. Haven't had any
problems. Do you have a way of checking the temp at specific places behind
the instrument panel to make sure it is heat that is causing the problem in
the Dynon? I would agree that running a decent sized hose from the right
side air vent to somewhere behind the panel for a flight might narrow down
the possible problems.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Avionics cooling
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I have 12 hours on the RV-10 and for the most part all is going well. I
have a fairly warm tunnel that I'll apply the techniques offered here to
fix. I have two other issues I'll address in separate messages.
My avionics are getting REALLY warm, in fact the DYNON is running really
slow (hit the timer function and it counts up at about 30% normal speed).
What sort of methods are you guys using to keep things under control. I
remember several comments about computer fans and that seems like a good
idea. I also considered running a blast tube off the ventilation scoop and
direct fresh, cool air behind the panel at a slight loss to passenger
comfort.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
--
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Message 24
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| Subject: | Nose wheel problem |
A good friend of mine was down from Iowa this weekend, I'm in the Dallas
area, to help me on my plane. He is a very good A&P and I'm very lucky
to have his help.
Anyway we discussed the front wheel bushing problems the 10 is having
and here is the solution he suggested to fix the problem and I think
it's a really a good idea. What we did was to take off the nose wheel
fork and we drilled a 1/8inch hole into each side of the fork. We then
inserted roll pins in each of the holes allowing them to protrude
through into the inside by a small amount. We then took the newly
supplied bushings and milled a small grove into the edge of the bushing
which will allow the roll pin on the interior part of the fork to slide
into. This method will definitely stop the bushing from turning.
I've attached some photos, which I hope will make it easier to
understand. The focus on the pictures wasn't as good as I would have
liked but you will get the idea. If you can't retrieve the photos
because they aren't on the summary distribution just e-mail me if you
would like to see them I will forward them directly to you.
Wayne Edgerton # 40336
Message 25
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Now that I'm about halfway through the flyoff, I'm looking forward to some
serious traveling, which means I probably will have to park her out in the
open. I know there are several canopy/fuselage covers on the market, does
anyone have any experience with them or recommendations.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 26
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| Subject: | Access to tries for air |
There has been discussions about our ability to pump air into the tires
without removing the wheel fairings. I am researching the possibilty of
getting access doors the same as some production planes have that allows
you to open a small door to service the tire. If I have any luck I will
pass it along. But someone gave me a suggestion that might eliminate the
need for this. He said to fill the tires with nitrogen and the tires
wont go down hardly ever. I think I'll probably give that a try also.
Apparently this is done often. I'd never heard of it before.
Wayne Edgerton # 40336
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics cooling |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Marcus,
I got a 3 output avionics cooling fan too. It's probably a
worthwhile investment.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I think I'll order the cooling fan as well, probably should have done that
> from the start but it didn't even occur to me.
>
> One detail I didn't include on the Dynon, it actually did it's "I'm really
> getting hot here" trick where it turns grayscale and says the temp is too
> hot. I'll try ducting some air short term while the various fans show up.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 9:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Avionics cooling
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> We have installed an AmeriKing cooling fan 3 or 5 ports with lines running
> to the back of the radio stack, but nothing for the Dynons. Haven't had any
> problems. Do you have a way of checking the temp at specific places behind
> the instrument panel to make sure it is heat that is causing the problem in
> the Dynon? I would agree that running a decent sized hose from the right
> side air vent to somewhere behind the panel for a flight might narrow down
> the possible problems.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
> Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:17 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Avionics cooling
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I have 12 hours on the RV-10 and for the most part all is going well. I
> have a fairly warm tunnel that I'll apply the techniques offered here to
> fix. I have two other issues I'll address in separate messages.
>
> My avionics are getting REALLY warm, in fact the DYNON is running really
> slow (hit the timer function and it counts up at about 30% normal speed).
> What sort of methods are you guys using to keep things under control. I
> remember several comments about computer fans and that seems like a good
> idea. I also considered running a blast tube off the ventilation scoop and
> direct fresh, cool air behind the panel at a slight loss to passenger
> comfort.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage covers |
I bought one from Cleveland. Light weight, good buckles and good
fit. Better than my RV6 cover.
Do not archive
On Aug 27, 2006, at 10:32 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
> Now that I=92m about halfway through the flyoff, I=92m looking forward
> to some serious traveling, which means I probably will have to park
> her out in the open. I know there are several canopy/fuselage
> covers on the market, does anyone have any experience with them or
> recommendations.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Marcus
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
List
> ========================
> ========================
the
> ========================
> ========================
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Homecoming |
I'll be at Vans Homecoming. Currently have 18.5 hours and need 6.5 more before
9AM Friday when we depart for Aurora.
Bill DeRouchey
billderou@yahoo.com
N939SB or #40029
bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge@gmail.com> wrote:
Any "homecomers"? Looks like decent weather out here on the west coast for
Van's Homecoming.
Bruce
40018
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Homecoming |
728dd will be there
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: NAV Reception |
Clean the paint out of the dimple in the skin for the flush screw.
Jim
In a message dated 08/27/2006 6:49:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
coop85@bellsouth.net writes:
I attached the nutplates through the antenna base that hold the wingtips on
per the instructions. Is anyone going beyond this?
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel problem |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's basically what I had said was an excellent solution. I'd
do it myself, but with the deep grove worn in my fork, I'm not
sure how much I want to drill mine until I get a new fork.
But, one thing about that solution is that as it wears in,
you'll still have to worry about the bearing spinning against
the inner edge of that spacer if you don't have lots of tension
on it. The seal is draggy on that bearing, and you may end up
having the bearing not turn, but turn on the axle shaft instead.
If that happens, you're going to need to shave a little off your
axle shaft to get the tension back.
So you've got a great solution. Randy did about the same thing
a couple weeks ago. Just make sure the preload is good on
the bearings.
Tim
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> A good friend of mine was down from Iowa this weekend, I'm in the Dallas
> area, to help me on my plane. He is a very good A&P and I'm very lucky
> to have his help.
>
> Anyway we discussed the front wheel bushing problems the 10 is having
> and here is the solution he suggested to fix the problem and I think
> it's a really a good idea. What we did was to take off the nose wheel
> fork and we drilled a 1/8inch hole into each side of the fork. We then
> inserted roll pins in each of the holes allowing them to protrude
> through into the inside by a small amount. We then took the newly
> supplied bushings and milled a small grove into the edge of the bushing
> which will allow the roll pin on the interior part of the fork to slide
> into. This method will definitely stop the bushing from turning.
>
> I've attached some photos, which I hope will make it easier to
> understand. The focus on the pictures wasn't as good as I would have
> liked but you will get the idea. If you can't retrieve the photos
> because they aren't on the summary distribution just e-mail me if you
> would like to see them I will forward them directly to you.
>
> Wayne Edgerton # 40336
>
>
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