Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:04 AM - Re: tech counselor (Mark Ritter)
2. 04:11 AM - Re: ADI Pilot II (DejaVu)
3. 04:32 AM - Re: ADI Pilot II (Tim Olson)
4. 04:40 AM - Re: tech counselor (Tim Olson)
5. 04:52 AM - Re: ADI Pilot II (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
6. 05:33 AM - Wiring Diagram and Software (Eric Parlow)
7. 05:40 AM - Re: tech counselor (Mark Ritter)
8. 06:06 AM - Re: ADI Pilot II (Tim Olson)
9. 06:09 AM - Re: tech counselor (linn Walters)
10. 06:18 AM - Re: tech counselor (Tim Olson)
11. 06:22 AM - Re: tech counselor (DAVE LEIKAM)
12. 06:27 AM - Re: Wiring Diagram and Software (Rick)
13. 06:42 AM - gretz (Rob Wright)
14. 06:43 AM - Re: ADI Pilot II (Jesse Saint)
15. 07:17 AM - Re: gretz (Ralph E. Capen)
16. 07:18 AM - Re: tech counselor - repairman's certificate (Belue, Kevin)
17. 07:32 AM - Re: Avionics coolingAvionics cooling (Lockamy, Jack L)
18. 07:38 AM - Re: tech counselor (Mark Ritter)
19. 07:54 AM - Re: gretz (Tim Olson)
20. 07:55 AM - Re: tech counselor - repairman's certificate (Tim Olson)
21. 07:59 AM - Re: ADI Pilot II (David McNeill)
22. 08:23 AM - Re: tech counselor (Tim Olson)
23. 08:34 AM - Re: tech counselor - repairman's certificate (Phillips, Jack)
24. 08:56 AM - Re: tech counselor (Vern W. Smith)
25. 09:11 AM - Re: gretz (Larry Rosen)
26. 09:40 AM - Re: tech counselor (jdalton77)
27. 12:08 PM - Re: Nose wheel problem (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
28. 12:26 PM - Re: Nose wheel problem (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
29. 12:49 PM - Re: Nose wheel problem (Tim Olson)
30. 01:54 PM - Re: Nose wheel problem (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
31. 01:57 PM - Re: gretz (Marcus Cooper)
32. 02:15 PM - Re: Nose wheel problem (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
33. 02:25 PM - Re: Nose wheel problem (Tim Olson)
34. 03:10 PM - Re: Fuselage covers (Randy DeBauw)
35. 03:45 PM - Re: ADI Pilot II (McGANN, Ron)
36. 03:55 PM - Re: tech counselor (Jack Sargeant)
37. 04:03 PM - Re: ADI Pilot II (McGANN, Ron)
38. 04:59 PM - Re: ADI Pilot II (SteinAir, Inc.)
39. 05:58 PM - Re: ADI Pilot II (David McNeill)
40. 06:04 PM - Re: ADI Pilot II (McGANN, Ron)
41. 08:11 PM - Re: LOE Flyin (Russell Daves)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
Dave - My DAR came by only two or three times while I was building the plane
(two and one half years). You might want to check with your DAR to see if
he is interested in looking at the plane during the building process. As
for my logbook all I did was initial and date each step in the plans as I
completed the step. I took maybe 50 pictures with me posing with a tool of
some sort in my hand.
Mark (N410MR)
>From: "DAVE LEIKAM" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
>To: "matronics" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: tech counselor
>Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 00:41:05 -0500
>
>How often must I have a tech counselor check my work if at all? How
>elaborate should my log (picture) book be? I may be a little late asking
>these questions.
>
>Dave Leikam
>Muskego, WI
>N89DA
>#40496 - elevators
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: ADI Pilot II |
ADI Pilot IIYou can temporarily put a TT 2.25" Turn&Bank in place of the
ADI while waiting. When the ADI becomes available return the T&B and
pay the difference for the ADI.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 1:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
I spoke to TT yesterday on that subject. they assured me that the
2.25" ADI would be available by December.I have a hole in the panel for
the ADI as the third way to keep the wings level.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 9:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
All
Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to replace
them in the near future.
cheers,
Ron
187 finishing
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: ADI Pilot II |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Last week they told me by the "end of the year". For what it's
worth, I had heard "after OSH" last year, so this one's getting
dragged out pretty far. I'm not sure that I'd trust timelines
from aviation vendors. But, if you're using it for backup,
you could use a 2.25" Turn and Bank indicator in place for a
while and they'd upgrade you when it comes out. That instrument
works pretty well. If it weren't for the ADI giving track
information in addition, I may not have even bothered to upgrade.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> All
>
> Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
> really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to replace
> them in the near future.
>
> cheers,
>
> Ron
>
> 187 finishing
>
> *
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: tech counselor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Dave, you don't *have* to have them come at all, but your DAR/FAA
Inspector will look more favorably on you if you have 3 Tech Counselor
inspections throughout the process. If I were doing it all over
as a new builder, I would get one during the tailcone, so they
could inspect my overall building skills, one around the time of
the canopy/doors/windows so they could inspect my fiberglass skills,
and one just before final inspection, so they can check my wiring/engine
stuff and give me a final checkover.
In actuality for me, I had one at the end of my wings, 1 just after
hanging the engine, and one at the end. That was still enough to make
the DAR happy, but I didn't have any good feedback on my construction
that I did on the initial steps. If you have other builders around
you checking your work, just get the 3 anytime you can, but try to
have one right before the DAR comes.
As for photos, just try to take some from each section, and make sure
you're in them, or at least your hands are. It may be necessary down
the road to prove you did the building yourself. As you know,
I shot lots of photos. My log was a spreadsheet. At the end,
I printed the spreadsheet, and put pages of selected photos into
a binder, and gave that to the DAR. He looked at it briefly. Where it
REALLY came in handy was when applying for the Repairman's certificate,
done in person at the FSDO. That guy really looked at it closely,
and asked a lot of questions about photos, and what was being done
in the photos. It was very clear that he wanted to ensure that
I not only understood the process, but that I was personally involved
in doing them. Just make sure you have enough that you could prove
it.
Some inspectors will be more or less interested, but just go with your
gut. I'm not a TC, but if I get down there this fall I'd be happy
to swing by.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
DAVE LEIKAM wrote:
> How often must I have a tech counselor check my work if at all? How
> elaborate should my log (picture) book be? I may be a little late
> asking these questions.
>
> Dave Leikam
> Muskego, WI
> N89DA
> #40496 - elevators
>
>=========================
>
> *
Message 5
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I think Ron is asking about a 2 1/4 inch ADI Pilot with autopilot
functions. I think you should check with TruTrak on that, since I don't
think they planned on making a 2 1/4 inch ADI PILOT. The 2 1/4 inch
straight ADI, yes, but putting all the guts in that small package for
autopilot functions, too, might be tough, so I think that will be only
in the 3 1/8 inch one, at least for the time being.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Sent: Wed 8/30/2006 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Last week they told me by the "end of the year". For what it's
worth, I had heard "after OSH" last year, so this one's getting
dragged out pretty far. I'm not sure that I'd trust timelines
from aviation vendors. But, if you're using it for backup,
you could use a 2.25" Turn and Bank indicator in place for a
while and they'd upgrade you when it comes out. That instrument
works pretty well. If it weren't for the ADI giving track
information in addition, I may not have even bothered to upgrade.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> All
>
> Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
> really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to replace
> them in the near future.
>
> cheers,
>
> Ron
>
> 187 finishing
>
> *
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wiring Diagram and Software |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
Two questions:
1.) Does anyone have a detailed wiring diagram available for reference and
to use as a template based on the Aeroelectric recommendations?
2.) What software is available to make detailed wiring diagrams at a
reasonable cost?
ERic--
40014
N104EP
RV-10 Avionics
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
Dave - I had an FAA guy from FSDO follow the DAR around during the
inspection. He did not seem interested in my logbook (signed off plans) or
pictures. He let me apply for my repairman certificate by mail which I now
have. That was nice since the closest FSDO office is an 80 mile trip to San
Antonio.
Mark (N410MR)
>From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: tech counselor
>Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 05:02:56 -0500
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
>
>Dave - My DAR came by only two or three times while I was building the
>plane (two and one half years). You might want to check with your DAR to
>see if he is interested in looking at the plane during the building
>process. As for my logbook all I did was initial and date each step in the
>plans as I completed the step. I took maybe 50 pictures with me posing
>with a tool of some sort in my hand.
>
>Mark (N410MR)
>
>
>>From: "DAVE LEIKAM" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
>>To: "matronics" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV10-List: tech counselor
>>Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 00:41:05 -0500
>>
>>How often must I have a tech counselor check my work if at all? How
>>elaborate should my log (picture) book be? I may be a little late asking
>>these questions.
>>
>>Dave Leikam
>>Muskego, WI
>>N89DA
>>#40496 - elevators
>>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: ADI Pilot II |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ah, yeah if he's asking about the Pilot, I know nothing.
I'm only speaking of the ADI. FWIW, I think I'd still
go with a Digiflight II or better AP.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
> I think Ron is asking about a 2 1/4 inch ADI Pilot with autopilot
> functions. I think you should check with TruTrak on that, since I don't
> think they planned on making a 2 1/4 inch ADI PILOT. The 2 1/4 inch
> straight ADI, yes, but putting all the guts in that small package for
> autopilot functions, too, might be tough, so I think that will be only
> in the 3 1/8 inch one, at least for the time being.
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wed 8/30/2006 7:31 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Last week they told me by the "end of the year". For what it's
> worth, I had heard "after OSH" last year, so this one's getting
> dragged out pretty far. I'm not sure that I'd trust timelines
> from aviation vendors. But, if you're using it for backup,
> you could use a 2.25" Turn and Bank indicator in place for a
> while and they'd upgrade you when it comes out. That instrument
> works pretty well. If it weren't for the ADI giving track
> information in addition, I may not have even bothered to upgrade.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> McGANN, Ron wrote:
> > All
> >
> > Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
> > really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to replace
> > them in the near future.
> >
> > cheers,
> >
> > Ron
> >
> > 187 finishing
> >
> > *
> >
>
> ==========
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> bsp; - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> ==========
> bsp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> ==========
> bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ontribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: tech counselor |
DAVE LEIKAM wrote:
> How often must I have a tech counselor check my work if at all?
There is no requirement, but he'll look at it as often as you like.
Having the tech counselor inspection sheets may (read that again ....
may) make it easier come DAR inspection.
> How elaborate should my log (picture) book be?
Take lots of pictures. Be sure to take lots of pictures with you
working. Posing is OK, but pictures taken while you're engrossed in
something is better. You'll be surprised how many times you'll go back
to those pictures to see what you were doing and when. Take pictures of
your goofs too!
> I may be a little late asking these questions.
Never too late ..... unless the bird is flying!!! :-D
Linn
do not archive
>
> Dave Leikam
> Muskego, WI
> N89DA
> #40496 - elevators
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: tech counselor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think the reason you got to apply by mail was that you had an
FAA guy from the FSDO there during the inspection. If you had
only a DAR, I think they need to have you show in person. The
DAR I had explained that if I'd have my inspection by
the FSDO, that would be one of the benefits. All in all, I
think the DAR way to go was best, due to timelines and red tape,
but it will probably mean you'll apply at the FSDO for the
Repairman's cert.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Mark Ritter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
>
> Dave - I had an FAA guy from FSDO follow the DAR around during the
> inspection. He did not seem interested in my logbook (signed off plans)
> or pictures. He let me apply for my repairman certificate by mail which
> I now have. That was nice since the closest FSDO office is an 80 mile
> trip to San Antonio.
>
> Mark (N410MR)
>
>
>
>
>> From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: tech counselor
>> Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 05:02:56 -0500
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
>>
>> Dave - My DAR came by only two or three times while I was building the
>> plane (two and one half years). You might want to check with your DAR
>> to see if he is interested in looking at the plane during the building
>> process. As for my logbook all I did was initial and date each step
>> in the plans as I completed the step. I took maybe 50 pictures with
>> me posing with a tool of some sort in my hand.
>>
>> Mark (N410MR)
>>
>>
>>
>>> From: "DAVE LEIKAM" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
>>> To: "matronics" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: RV10-List: tech counselor
>>> Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 00:41:05 -0500
>>>
>>> How often must I have a tech counselor check my work if at all? How
>>> elaborate should my log (picture) book be? I may be a little late
>>> asking these questions.
>>>
>>> Dave Leikam
>>> Muskego, WI
>>> N89DA
>>> #40496 - elevators
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: tech counselor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DAVE LEIKAM" <DAVELEIKAM@WI.RR.COM>
If your ever in town Tim, or anyone else building an RV, please give me a
call and stop by. I would love the visit. Thanks for the offer.
Dave Leikam
Muskego, WI (Southeast - Milwaukee area)
414-807-5499
#40496
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 6:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tech counselor
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Dave, you don't *have* to have them come at all, but your DAR/FAA
> Inspector will look more favorably on you if you have 3 Tech Counselor
> inspections throughout the process. If I were doing it all over
> as a new builder, I would get one during the tailcone, so they
> could inspect my overall building skills, one around the time of
> the canopy/doors/windows so they could inspect my fiberglass skills,
> and one just before final inspection, so they can check my wiring/engine
> stuff and give me a final checkover.
>
> In actuality for me, I had one at the end of my wings, 1 just after
> hanging the engine, and one at the end. That was still enough to make
> the DAR happy, but I didn't have any good feedback on my construction
> that I did on the initial steps. If you have other builders around
> you checking your work, just get the 3 anytime you can, but try to
> have one right before the DAR comes.
>
> As for photos, just try to take some from each section, and make sure
> you're in them, or at least your hands are. It may be necessary down
> the road to prove you did the building yourself. As you know,
> I shot lots of photos. My log was a spreadsheet. At the end,
> I printed the spreadsheet, and put pages of selected photos into
> a binder, and gave that to the DAR. He looked at it briefly. Where it
> REALLY came in handy was when applying for the Repairman's certificate,
> done in person at the FSDO. That guy really looked at it closely,
> and asked a lot of questions about photos, and what was being done
> in the photos. It was very clear that he wanted to ensure that
> I not only understood the process, but that I was personally involved
> in doing them. Just make sure you have enough that you could prove
> it.
>
> Some inspectors will be more or less interested, but just go with your
> gut. I'm not a TC, but if I get down there this fall I'd be happy
> to swing by.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> DAVE LEIKAM wrote:
>> How often must I have a tech counselor check my work if at all? How
>> elaborate should my log (picture) book be? I may be a little late asking
>> these questions.
>> Dave Leikam
>> Muskego, WI
>> N89DA
>> #40496 - elevators
>> =========================
>>
>> *
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagram and Software |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Eric,
Just in case you only have the book, got to the attached link and check out these
diagrams. Especially Z-14 and Z-19 under DC power. Short of giving you the
wiring diagrams for your avionics harnesses you should be able to wire the entire
aircraft with the info in these pages.
If it seems greek to you seek help from your local builder or ESS chapter. Bob's
book is great on theory and short on actual "how to's".
Many of the RV-10 and other RV builder sites have their own diagrams and power
distribution for you to "borrow" for ideas ;)
Tim has a Z diagram and William Curtis has a good schematic as well.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS
Rick S.
40185
Message 13
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Wondering if anyone has pictures of how you plumbed your gretz pitot tube.
Specifically, did you bend your copper tubing or connect your other line to
it with a bend or with an elbow fitting? I'm also using the SafeAir tubing
so any help on that would be great too.
Rob Wright
#392
Wings
Message 14
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
The 2.25" ADI is getting pushed back because of their EFIS development, I
was told. As far as the ADI Pilot, that would certainly be a question for
them, but if they do come out with it, it won't be for at least several
months after the ADI itself comes out, I would think. Also, I agree with
Tim and for the -10, at least a Digiflight II is the way to go. Hey, that
fills that 2.25" hole itself. It doesn't show wings-level, but it will keep
them there for you.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Last week they told me by the "end of the year". For what it's
worth, I had heard "after OSH" last year, so this one's getting
dragged out pretty far. I'm not sure that I'd trust timelines
from aviation vendors. But, if you're using it for backup,
you could use a 2.25" Turn and Bank indicator in place for a
while and they'd upgrade you when it comes out. That instrument
works pretty well. If it weren't for the ADI giving track
information in addition, I may not have even bothered to upgrade.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> All
>
> Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
> really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to replace
> them in the near future.
>
> cheers,
>
> Ron
>
> 187 finishing
>
> *
>
--
--
Message 15
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I used aluminum formed with a bender to bulkhead fittings on the next wing rib
- then poly tubing to the wing root.
I got pictures at home - I'll try to get them to you soon,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Rob Wright <armywrights@adelphia.net>
>Sent: Aug 30, 2006 9:41 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: gretz
>
>Wondering if anyone has pictures of how you plumbed your gretz pitot tube.
>Specifically, did you bend your copper tubing or connect your other line to
>it with a bend or with an elbow fitting? I'm also using the SafeAir tubing
>so any help on that would be great too.
>
>
>
>Rob Wright
>
>#392
>
>Wings
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | tech counselor - repairman's certificate |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Belue, Kevin" <KBelue@DRS-TEM.com>
I wonder if this process has changed: after my RV-6A was inspected by a DAR
in 2002, I mailed the paperwork and got a Repairman's certificate about 5
weeks later. No FSDO involved on my end.
Kevin D. Belue
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 8:18 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tech counselor
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I think the reason you got to apply by mail was that you had an
> FAA guy from the FSDO there during the inspection. If you had
> only a DAR, I think they need to have you show in person. The
> DAR I had explained that if I'd have my inspection by
> the FSDO, that would be one of the benefits. All in all, I
> think the DAR way to go was best, due to timelines and red tape,
> but it will probably mean you'll apply at the FSDO for the
> Repairman's cert.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics coolingAvionics cooling |
I purchased and installed an inexpensive ($18) 12-volt fan from Radio
Shack. Here is a link:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102826&cp=&ori
gkw=fan&kw=fan&parentPage=search
Built a small bracket and mounted it on a rib behind the avionics stack.
It is powered on automatically when I turn the Avionics Master switch
on. It's quiet, small, lightweight, and seems to be doing the job.
Just another suggestion...
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A N174JL 220 hrs
RV-10... maybe
www.jacklockamy.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: tech counselor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
Tim,
You are absolutely right. The FAA guy was convinced I had built the plane
and qualified for a repairman certificate so he let me apply by mail.
Having the FAA guy and a DAR at the inspection saved me an 80 mile (160 mile
round trip) trip to S.A. At first I was a little apprehensive when the DAR
told me the FAA guy was going to be looking over his shoulder (I sure didn't
request his presence) but it all worked out OK.
Starting wheel and gear leg fairings tomorrow. Pray for me. Hope to finish
in time to make it to LOE flyin. Are you going?
Mark
Do not archive
>From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: tech counselor
>Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 08:17:57 -0500
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>I think the reason you got to apply by mail was that you had an
>FAA guy from the FSDO there during the inspection. If you had
>only a DAR, I think they need to have you show in person. The
>DAR I had explained that if I'd have my inspection by
>the FSDO, that would be one of the benefits. All in all, I
>think the DAR way to go was best, due to timelines and red tape,
>but it will probably mean you'll apply at the FSDO for the
>Repairman's cert.
>
>Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>do not archive
>
>
>Mark Ritter wrote:
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
>>
>>Dave - I had an FAA guy from FSDO follow the DAR around during the
>>inspection. He did not seem interested in my logbook (signed off plans) or
>>pictures. He let me apply for my repairman certificate by mail which I
>>now have. That was nice since the closest FSDO office is an 80 mile trip
>>to San Antonio.
>>
>>Mark (N410MR)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: tech counselor
>>>Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 05:02:56 -0500
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
>>>
>>>Dave - My DAR came by only two or three times while I was building the
>>>plane (two and one half years). You might want to check with your DAR to
>>>see if he is interested in looking at the plane during the building
>>>process. As for my logbook all I did was initial and date each step in
>>>the plans as I completed the step. I took maybe 50 pictures with me
>>>posing with a tool of some sort in my hand.
>>>
>>>Mark (N410MR)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: "DAVE LEIKAM" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
>>>>To: "matronics" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>>Subject: RV10-List: tech counselor
>>>>Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 00:41:05 -0500
>>>>
>>>>How often must I have a tech counselor check my work if at all? How
>>>>elaborate should my log (picture) book be? I may be a little late
>>>>asking these questions.
>>>>
>>>>Dave Leikam
>>>>Muskego, WI
>>>>N89DA
>>>>#40496 - elevators
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I don't know if I have any photos, but I used the aluminum tubing
through the wing, poly from wing root to panel. I put a big
strain relief loop in the aluminum next to the pitot, and
connected it, leaving the copper as straight as I could so it
could later be easier to remove the pitot. Strain relief
loops are a good idea with metal tubing.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rob Wright wrote:
> Wondering if anyone has pictures of how you plumbed your gretz pitot
> tube. Specifically, did you bend your copper tubing or connect your
> other line to it with a bend or with an elbow fitting? Im also using
> the SafeAir tubing so any help on that would be great too.
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392
>
> Wings
>
> *
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: tech counselor - repairman's certificate |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Not sure if it's new FAA policy, or just the MSP FSDO policy.
Anyone else have any data points to add...that would help.
Recent ones especially.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Belue, Kevin wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Belue, Kevin" <KBelue@DRS-TEM.com>
>
>
> I wonder if this process has changed: after my RV-6A was inspected by a DAR
> in 2002, I mailed the paperwork and got a Repairman's certificate about 5
> weeks later. No FSDO involved on my end.
>
> Kevin D. Belue
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com]
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 8:18 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tech counselor
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> I think the reason you got to apply by mail was that you had an
>> FAA guy from the FSDO there during the inspection. If you had
>> only a DAR, I think they need to have you show in person. The
>> DAR I had explained that if I'd have my inspection by
>> the FSDO, that would be one of the benefits. All in all, I
>> think the DAR way to go was best, due to timelines and red tape,
>> but it will probably mean you'll apply at the FSDO for the
>> Repairman's cert.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: ADI Pilot II |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
I already have a rectangular Digiflite II VSGV; looking for the ultimate
backup (ADI only) if the Cheltons fail and the Digiflite won't digi. I did
comment at OSH that I thought the idea of putting round gauges on a computer
screen would not sell enough to justify the software development costs and
it would be far below the other offerings in capability.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 6:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> The 2.25" ADI is getting pushed back because of their EFIS development, I
> was told. As far as the ADI Pilot, that would certainly be a question for
> them, but if they do come out with it, it won't be for at least several
> months after the ADI itself comes out, I would think. Also, I agree with
> Tim and for the -10, at least a Digiflight II is the way to go. Hey, that
> fills that 2.25" hole itself. It doesn't show wings-level, but it will
> keep
> them there for you.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:32 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Last week they told me by the "end of the year". For what it's
> worth, I had heard "after OSH" last year, so this one's getting
> dragged out pretty far. I'm not sure that I'd trust timelines
> from aviation vendors. But, if you're using it for backup,
> you could use a 2.25" Turn and Bank indicator in place for a
> while and they'd upgrade you when it comes out. That instrument
> works pretty well. If it weren't for the ADI giving track
> information in addition, I may not have even bothered to upgrade.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> McGANN, Ron wrote:
>> All
>>
>> Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
>> really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to replace
>> them in the near future.
>>
>> cheers,
>>
>> Ron
>>
>> 187 finishing
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: tech counselor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Not sure on the LOE Fly-in. That is one of the very few vacation
weekend possibilites for me that doesn't conflict with my on-call
and kids school schedule. So, if the Family says go, we could
easily be there.
We're currently trying to figure out where the good weather will
be for this weekend. Van's Homecoming would be OK, but I've only
got from Friday 5pm until Monday 9pm. So it's a bit tight for 20
hours of round-trip enroute and still have fun with the kids.
If anyone has some great tips for fantastic kid destination
with 1200 nm of OSH, send the ideas to me off-line. If the
weather won't be good though, I'll be heading elsewhere.
Mark, good luck on the wheel and leg fairings. They're no fun,
but you'll love the speed in the end. I just did a 2nd
Airspeed cal flight last night and found that yes, I'm
actually 6.5-7.5 kts slower indicated than actual TAS. So
the performance with fairings is very good.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
> Starting wheel and gear leg fairings tomorrow. Pray for me. Hope to
> finish in time to make it to LOE flyin. Are you going?
>
> Mark
>
> Do not archive
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | tech counselor - repairman's certificate |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
Not exactly the data point you were looking for, but when I had my
Pietenpol inspected in 2004, I had a guy from the Greensboro FSDO do the
inspection, and he wrote out my Repairman's Certificate on the spot. I
had to wait 4 days for the FSDO to inspect it, whereas a DAR could have
done it on one day's notice. But the FSDO was FREE, with the added
benefit that I could get my repairman's certificate. The DAR was going
to charge me $500 for the privilege.
Not every FSDO is as "Experimental Friendly", but it is worth a call
before shelling out bucks for a DAR.
Jack Phillips
#610
Tail kit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tech counselor - repairman's certificate
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Not sure if it's new FAA policy, or just the MSP FSDO policy.
Anyone else have any data points to add...that would help.
Recent ones especially.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Belue, Kevin wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Belue, Kevin" <KBelue@DRS-TEM.com>
>
>
> I wonder if this process has changed: after my RV-6A was inspected by
a DAR
> in 2002, I mailed the paperwork and got a Repairman's certificate
about 5
> weeks later. No FSDO involved on my end.
>
> Kevin D. Belue
_________________________________________________
Message 24
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|
Dave,
Keep in mind the building log is for your use long after the sign off.
So if there is anything you might like a picture of in 10 years, for
maintenance, take a picture of it. Also if there is any thing you do a
little different from the plans or that isn't clear in the plans (that
comes later in the fuel tank section), document it for future reference.
I think tech counselor visits vary. Mine asked to see the skeleton of
the rudder before skinning, the wings before closing them and during
system installation. Talk to your counselor and see what he recommends.
Again this is for your benefit. There is a lot to building an airplane
and having extra eyes on a project is a good thing. If something's not
quite right it's better to find out during the building process than
during the FAA inspection or worse yet in the air.
For what it's worth,
Vern Smith (#40324 wings)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVE LEIKAM
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 10:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tech counselor
How often must I have a tech counselor check my work if at all? How
elaborate should my log (picture) book be? I may be a little late
asking these questions.
Dave Leikam
Muskego, WI
N89DA
#40496 - elevators
Message 25
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
You can see how William Curtis ran the pitot tube here
<http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/index7.html>
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: tech counselor |
I've had my tech counselor out twice during the construction of the
tailcone, and I'll have him out at least once more before this sub-kit
is done.
I ask him to come out whenever I reach a major milestone or when I have
enough questions to make it worth our time for him to come out.
----- Original Message -----
From: Vern W. Smith
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:55 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: tech counselor
Dave,
Keep in mind the building log is for your use long after the sign off.
So if there is anything you might like a picture of in 10 years, for
maintenance, take a picture of it. Also if there is any thing you do a
little different from the plans or that isn't clear in the plans (that
comes later in the fuel tank section), document it for future reference.
I think tech counselor visits vary. Mine asked to see the skeleton of
the rudder before skinning, the wings before closing them and during
system installation. Talk to your counselor and see what he recommends.
Again this is for your benefit. There is a lot to building an airplane
and having extra eyes on a project is a good thing. If something's not
quite right it's better to find out during the building process than
during the FAA inspection or worse yet in the air.
For what it's worth,
Vern Smith (#40324 wings)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVE LEIKAM
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 10:41 PM
To: matronics
Subject: RV10-List: tech counselor
How often must I have a tech counselor check my work if at all? How
elaborate should my log (picture) book be? I may be a little late
asking these questions.
Dave Leikam
Muskego, WI
N89DA
#40496 - elevators
Message 27
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| Subject: | Nose wheel problem |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
FYI
I just got off the phone with Ken K. the Engineer at Van's and he
enlightened me on how the new parts are to be installed on this nose wheel.
This may have been covered, but I didn't notice it.
First the axle is supposed to be "floating" in between the fork not at such
a length that it is compressed by the fork. I was under the impression that
it was supposed to be just the right length so that when the spacers were
tight against the bearing (causing the bearing to remain stationary) that
the axle would then be tight. I saw something about using a feeler gauge
and sanding the end of the axle. According to Ken the axle is used to
support the bolt and keep the bearings centered, and it's length should be
about 1/16" shorter than the sum of the other parts when torqued.
Second the entire assembly should be torqued to the torque spec for the bolt
that goes through the fork and axle. He says this seems like a lot of
torque, but Matco says that it is fine for that bearing and it gives enough
pressure for the new spacers to lock on to the bearing. He says the wheel
will be draggy, but that is the way it is supposed to be. Again at this
point the axle will be floating inside the assembly. The assembly can also
be checked simply by re-torqueing during inspection. This method of
adjustment skirts the 'this feels about right' method of adjustment.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's basically what I had said was an excellent solution. I'd
do it myself, but with the deep grove worn in my fork, I'm not
sure how much I want to drill mine until I get a new fork.
But, one thing about that solution is that as it wears in,
you'll still have to worry about the bearing spinning against
the inner edge of that spacer if you don't have lots of tension
on it. The seal is draggy on that bearing, and you may end up
having the bearing not turn, but turn on the axle shaft instead.
If that happens, you're going to need to shave a little off your
axle shaft to get the tension back.
So you've got a great solution. Randy did about the same thing
a couple weeks ago. Just make sure the preload is good on
the bearings.
Tim
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> A good friend of mine was down from Iowa this weekend, I'm in the Dallas
> area, to help me on my plane. He is a very good A&P and I'm very lucky
> to have his help.
>
> Anyway we discussed the front wheel bushing problems the 10 is having
> and here is the solution he suggested to fix the problem and I think
> it's a really a good idea. What we did was to take off the nose wheel
> fork and we drilled a 1/8inch hole into each side of the fork. We then
> inserted roll pins in each of the holes allowing them to protrude
> through into the inside by a small amount. We then took the newly
> supplied bushings and milled a small grove into the edge of the bushing
> which will allow the roll pin on the interior part of the fork to slide
> into. This method will definitely stop the bushing from turning.
>
> I've attached some photos, which I hope will make it easier to
> understand. The focus on the pictures wasn't as good as I would have
> liked but you will get the idea. If you can't retrieve the photos
> because they aren't on the summary distribution just e-mail me if you
> would like to see them I will forward them directly to you.
>
> Wayne Edgerton # 40336
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Nose wheel problem |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Sort of matches what I was told by Tom Green. Big difference is that I
had the old axle and they shipped me new spacers without mentioning that
the new axle was 1/16" shorter than the old! I had been making the bolt
torque per standard spec for that size bolt but without the knowledge of
the shortened axle you would never achieve proper fit of all parts. I
haven't gotten around to pulling things apart again to trim the axle but
have written with red Sharpie on the fork that it has to be done.
Thanks for the diligence!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Lauritsen - Work
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 2:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work"
<mike@cleavelandtool.com>
FYI
I just got off the phone with Ken K. the Engineer at Van's and he
enlightened me on how the new parts are to be installed on this nose
wheel.
This may have been covered, but I didn't notice it.
First the axle is supposed to be "floating" in between the fork not at
such
a length that it is compressed by the fork. I was under the impression
that
it was supposed to be just the right length so that when the spacers
were
tight against the bearing (causing the bearing to remain stationary)
that
the axle would then be tight. I saw something about using a feeler
gauge
and sanding the end of the axle. According to Ken the axle is used to
support the bolt and keep the bearings centered, and it's length should
be
about 1/16" shorter than the sum of the other parts when torqued.
Second the entire assembly should be torqued to the torque spec for the
bolt
that goes through the fork and axle. He says this seems like a lot of
torque, but Matco says that it is fine for that bearing and it gives
enough
pressure for the new spacers to lock on to the bearing. He says the
wheel
will be draggy, but that is the way it is supposed to be. Again at this
point the axle will be floating inside the assembly. The assembly can
also
be checked simply by re-torqueing during inspection. This method of
adjustment skirts the 'this feels about right' method of adjustment.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's basically what I had said was an excellent solution. I'd
do it myself, but with the deep grove worn in my fork, I'm not
sure how much I want to drill mine until I get a new fork.
But, one thing about that solution is that as it wears in,
you'll still have to worry about the bearing spinning against
the inner edge of that spacer if you don't have lots of tension
on it. The seal is draggy on that bearing, and you may end up
having the bearing not turn, but turn on the axle shaft instead.
If that happens, you're going to need to shave a little off your
axle shaft to get the tension back.
So you've got a great solution. Randy did about the same thing
a couple weeks ago. Just make sure the preload is good on
the bearings.
Tim
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> A good friend of mine was down from Iowa this weekend, I'm in the
Dallas
> area, to help me on my plane. He is a very good A&P and I'm very lucky
> to have his help.
>
> Anyway we discussed the front wheel bushing problems the 10 is having
> and here is the solution he suggested to fix the problem and I think
> it's a really a good idea. What we did was to take off the nose wheel
> fork and we drilled a 1/8inch hole into each side of the fork. We then
> inserted roll pins in each of the holes allowing them to protrude
> through into the inside by a small amount. We then took the newly
> supplied bushings and milled a small grove into the edge of the
bushing
> which will allow the roll pin on the interior part of the fork to
slide
> into. This method will definitely stop the bushing from turning.
>
> I've attached some photos, which I hope will make it easier to
> understand. The focus on the pictures wasn't as good as I would have
> liked but you will get the idea. If you can't retrieve the photos
> because they aren't on the summary distribution just e-mail me if you
> would like to see them I will forward them directly to you.
>
> Wayne Edgerton # 40336
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel problem |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks Mike, this is very good info. I can tell you that the
parts as supplied seem to really not work this way in real
life, because that axle definitely is bottoming out on the
forks, but this tells me that I should probably shave my axle
down a bit so it does float. This might really help alleviate
some of the issues with the spinning spacers too, since now
they and the bearings/wheel are the sole items that keep the
forks separated from eachother...not the axle. It does
drastically change the viewpoint though of those who said
the axle bolts should just be snugged up....if that were the
case, the spacers wouldn't carry through much force.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
>
> FYI
>
> I just got off the phone with Ken K. the Engineer at Van's and he
> enlightened me on how the new parts are to be installed on this nose wheel.
> This may have been covered, but I didn't notice it.
>
> First the axle is supposed to be "floating" in between the fork not at such
> a length that it is compressed by the fork. I was under the impression that
> it was supposed to be just the right length so that when the spacers were
> tight against the bearing (causing the bearing to remain stationary) that
> the axle would then be tight. I saw something about using a feeler gauge
> and sanding the end of the axle. According to Ken the axle is used to
> support the bolt and keep the bearings centered, and it's length should be
> about 1/16" shorter than the sum of the other parts when torqued.
>
> Second the entire assembly should be torqued to the torque spec for the bolt
> that goes through the fork and axle. He says this seems like a lot of
> torque, but Matco says that it is fine for that bearing and it gives enough
> pressure for the new spacers to lock on to the bearing. He says the wheel
> will be draggy, but that is the way it is supposed to be. Again at this
> point the axle will be floating inside the assembly. The assembly can also
> be checked simply by re-torqueing during inspection. This method of
> adjustment skirts the 'this feels about right' method of adjustment.
>
>
>
> Mike Lauritsen
> Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
> 2225 First St.
> Boone, Iowa 50036
> 515-432-6794
> mike@cleavelandtool.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> That's basically what I had said was an excellent solution. I'd
> do it myself, but with the deep grove worn in my fork, I'm not
> sure how much I want to drill mine until I get a new fork.
>
> But, one thing about that solution is that as it wears in,
> you'll still have to worry about the bearing spinning against
> the inner edge of that spacer if you don't have lots of tension
> on it. The seal is draggy on that bearing, and you may end up
> having the bearing not turn, but turn on the axle shaft instead.
> If that happens, you're going to need to shave a little off your
> axle shaft to get the tension back.
>
> So you've got a great solution. Randy did about the same thing
> a couple weeks ago. Just make sure the preload is good on
> the bearings.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Wayne Edgerton wrote:
>> A good friend of mine was down from Iowa this weekend, I'm in the Dallas
>> area, to help me on my plane. He is a very good A&P and I'm very lucky
>> to have his help.
>>
>> Anyway we discussed the front wheel bushing problems the 10 is having
>> and here is the solution he suggested to fix the problem and I think
>> it's a really a good idea. What we did was to take off the nose wheel
>> fork and we drilled a 1/8inch hole into each side of the fork. We then
>> inserted roll pins in each of the holes allowing them to protrude
>> through into the inside by a small amount. We then took the newly
>> supplied bushings and milled a small grove into the edge of the bushing
>> which will allow the roll pin on the interior part of the fork to slide
>> into. This method will definitely stop the bushing from turning.
>>
>> I've attached some photos, which I hope will make it easier to
>> understand. The focus on the pictures wasn't as good as I would have
>> liked but you will get the idea. If you can't retrieve the photos
>> because they aren't on the summary distribution just e-mail me if you
>> would like to see them I will forward them directly to you.
>>
>> Wayne Edgerton # 40336
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Nose wheel problem |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
If the axle is shorter, then it is likely going to spin inside the spacer, just
like when it was the other way the axle was pinned and the spacers rotated.
I would think you would want the axle pinned by tightening the axle bolt till
it was up against the fork and then have the proper length spacers to provide
enough force on the bearing so the spacers don't spin and that way the bearing
would be the only parts rotating.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks Mike, this is very good info. I can tell you that the
parts as supplied seem to really not work this way in real
life, because that axle definitely is bottoming out on the
forks, but this tells me that I should probably shave my axle
down a bit so it does float. This might really help alleviate
some of the issues with the spinning spacers too, since now
they and the bearings/wheel are the sole items that keep the
forks separated from eachother...not the axle. It does
drastically change the viewpoint though of those who said
the axle bolts should just be snugged up....if that were the
case, the spacers wouldn't carry through much force.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
>
> FYI
>
> I just got off the phone with Ken K. the Engineer at Van's and he
> enlightened me on how the new parts are to be installed on this nose wheel.
> This may have been covered, but I didn't notice it.
>
> First the axle is supposed to be "floating" in between the fork not at such
> a length that it is compressed by the fork. I was under the impression that
> it was supposed to be just the right length so that when the spacers were
> tight against the bearing (causing the bearing to remain stationary) that
> the axle would then be tight. I saw something about using a feeler gauge
> and sanding the end of the axle. According to Ken the axle is used to
> support the bolt and keep the bearings centered, and it's length should be
> about 1/16" shorter than the sum of the other parts when torqued.
>
> Second the entire assembly should be torqued to the torque spec for the bolt
> that goes through the fork and axle. He says this seems like a lot of
> torque, but Matco says that it is fine for that bearing and it gives enough
> pressure for the new spacers to lock on to the bearing. He says the wheel
> will be draggy, but that is the way it is supposed to be. Again at this
> point the axle will be floating inside the assembly. The assembly can also
> be checked simply by re-torqueing during inspection. This method of
> adjustment skirts the 'this feels about right' method of adjustment.
>
>
>
> Mike Lauritsen
> Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
> 2225 First St.
> Boone, Iowa 50036
> 515-432-6794
> mike@cleavelandtool.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> That's basically what I had said was an excellent solution. I'd
> do it myself, but with the deep grove worn in my fork, I'm not
> sure how much I want to drill mine until I get a new fork.
>
> But, one thing about that solution is that as it wears in,
> you'll still have to worry about the bearing spinning against
> the inner edge of that spacer if you don't have lots of tension
> on it. The seal is draggy on that bearing, and you may end up
> having the bearing not turn, but turn on the axle shaft instead.
> If that happens, you're going to need to shave a little off your
> axle shaft to get the tension back.
>
> So you've got a great solution. Randy did about the same thing
> a couple weeks ago. Just make sure the preload is good on
> the bearings.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Wayne Edgerton wrote:
>> A good friend of mine was down from Iowa this weekend, I'm in the Dallas
>> area, to help me on my plane. He is a very good A&P and I'm very lucky
>> to have his help.
>>
>> Anyway we discussed the front wheel bushing problems the 10 is having
>> and here is the solution he suggested to fix the problem and I think
>> it's a really a good idea. What we did was to take off the nose wheel
>> fork and we drilled a 1/8inch hole into each side of the fork. We then
>> inserted roll pins in each of the holes allowing them to protrude
>> through into the inside by a small amount. We then took the newly
>> supplied bushings and milled a small grove into the edge of the bushing
>> which will allow the roll pin on the interior part of the fork to slide
>> into. This method will definitely stop the bushing from turning.
>>
>> I've attached some photos, which I hope will make it easier to
>> understand. The focus on the pictures wasn't as good as I would have
>> liked but you will get the idea. If you can't retrieve the photos
>> because they aren't on the summary distribution just e-mail me if you
>> would like to see them I will forward them directly to you.
>>
>> Wayne Edgerton # 40336
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
I put an elbow fitting on mine, I was concerned that if I bent it much it
might not pass through the mount very well. The tube is just the right
length to put an elbow on the end and have the hose pass through the
lightening hole.
Marcus
40286 flying, and the pitot heat works.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: gretz
Wondering if anyone has pictures of how you plumbed your gretz pitot tube.
Specifically, did you bend your copper tubing or connect your other line to
it with a bend or with an elbow fitting? I'm also using the SafeAir tubing
so any help on that would be great too.
Rob Wright
#392
Wings
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Nose wheel problem |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
I asked about the axle spinning, the answer was: 'What will make the axle
spin? If the spacers are torqued down tight on the bearing, the inner race
of the bearing is not going to turn, thus the axle will not turn'. Matco
said that if you got both the axle and the spacer just right then the spacer
would loosen with wear and either the spacer or the bearing would spin.
With this setup the pressure always carries from fork to spacer to bearing
to wheel to bearing to spacer to fork and if anything gets loose it is
because it is not torqued correctly.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
<Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
If the axle is shorter, then it is likely going to spin inside the
spacer, just like when it was the other way the axle was pinned and the
spacers rotated. I would think you would want the axle pinned by tightening
the axle bolt till it was up against the fork and then have the proper
length spacers to provide enough force on the bearing so the spacers don't
spin and that way the bearing would be the only parts rotating.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks Mike, this is very good info. I can tell you that the
parts as supplied seem to really not work this way in real
life, because that axle definitely is bottoming out on the
forks, but this tells me that I should probably shave my axle
down a bit so it does float. This might really help alleviate
some of the issues with the spinning spacers too, since now
they and the bearings/wheel are the sole items that keep the
forks separated from eachother...not the axle. It does
drastically change the viewpoint though of those who said
the axle bolts should just be snugged up....if that were the
case, the spacers wouldn't carry through much force.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work"
<mike@cleavelandtool.com>
>
> FYI
>
> I just got off the phone with Ken K. the Engineer at Van's and he
> enlightened me on how the new parts are to be installed on this nose
wheel.
> This may have been covered, but I didn't notice it.
>
> First the axle is supposed to be "floating" in between the fork not at
such
> a length that it is compressed by the fork. I was under the impression
that
> it was supposed to be just the right length so that when the spacers were
> tight against the bearing (causing the bearing to remain stationary) that
> the axle would then be tight. I saw something about using a feeler gauge
> and sanding the end of the axle. According to Ken the axle is used to
> support the bolt and keep the bearings centered, and it's length should be
> about 1/16" shorter than the sum of the other parts when torqued.
>
> Second the entire assembly should be torqued to the torque spec for the
bolt
> that goes through the fork and axle. He says this seems like a lot of
> torque, but Matco says that it is fine for that bearing and it gives
enough
> pressure for the new spacers to lock on to the bearing. He says the wheel
> will be draggy, but that is the way it is supposed to be. Again at this
> point the axle will be floating inside the assembly. The assembly can
also
> be checked simply by re-torqueing during inspection. This method of
> adjustment skirts the 'this feels about right' method of adjustment.
>
>
>
> Mike Lauritsen
> Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
> 2225 First St.
> Boone, Iowa 50036
> 515-432-6794
> mike@cleavelandtool.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> That's basically what I had said was an excellent solution. I'd
> do it myself, but with the deep grove worn in my fork, I'm not
> sure how much I want to drill mine until I get a new fork.
>
> But, one thing about that solution is that as it wears in,
> you'll still have to worry about the bearing spinning against
> the inner edge of that spacer if you don't have lots of tension
> on it. The seal is draggy on that bearing, and you may end up
> having the bearing not turn, but turn on the axle shaft instead.
> If that happens, you're going to need to shave a little off your
> axle shaft to get the tension back.
>
> So you've got a great solution. Randy did about the same thing
> a couple weeks ago. Just make sure the preload is good on
> the bearings.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Wayne Edgerton wrote:
>> A good friend of mine was down from Iowa this weekend, I'm in the Dallas
>> area, to help me on my plane. He is a very good A&P and I'm very lucky
>> to have his help.
>>
>> Anyway we discussed the front wheel bushing problems the 10 is having
>> and here is the solution he suggested to fix the problem and I think
>> it's a really a good idea. What we did was to take off the nose wheel
>> fork and we drilled a 1/8inch hole into each side of the fork. We then
>> inserted roll pins in each of the holes allowing them to protrude
>> through into the inside by a small amount. We then took the newly
>> supplied bushings and milled a small grove into the edge of the bushing
>> which will allow the roll pin on the interior part of the fork to slide
>> into. This method will definitely stop the bushing from turning.
>>
>> I've attached some photos, which I hope will make it easier to
>> understand. The focus on the pictures wasn't as good as I would have
>> liked but you will get the idea. If you can't retrieve the photos
>> because they aren't on the summary distribution just e-mail me if you
>> would like to see them I will forward them directly to you.
>>
>> Wayne Edgerton # 40336
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel problem |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I agree with that too. In this scenario, you'd have to still
pin it like you say, in some manner.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
>
> If the axle is shorter, then it is likely going to spin inside the
> spacer, just like when it was the other way the axle was pinned and
> the spacers rotated. I would think you would want the axle pinned by
> tightening the axle bolt till it was up against the fork and then
> have the proper length spacers to provide enough force on the bearing
> so the spacers don't spin and that way the bearing would be the only
> parts rotating.
>
>
>
> Thank You Ray Doerr
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 2:49 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Thanks Mike, this is very good info. I can tell you that the parts
> as supplied seem to really not work this way in real life, because
> that axle definitely is bottoming out on the forks, but this tells me
> that I should probably shave my axle down a bit so it does float.
> This might really help alleviate some of the issues with the spinning
> spacers too, since now they and the bearings/wheel are the sole items
> that keep the forks separated from eachother...not the axle. It does
> drastically change the viewpoint though of those who said the axle
> bolts should just be snugged up....if that were the case, the spacers
> wouldn't carry through much force.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive
>
>
> Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work"
>> <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
>>
>> FYI
>>
>> I just got off the phone with Ken K. the Engineer at Van's and he
>> enlightened me on how the new parts are to be installed on this
>> nose wheel. This may have been covered, but I didn't notice it.
>>
>> First the axle is supposed to be "floating" in between the fork not
>> at such a length that it is compressed by the fork. I was under
>> the impression that it was supposed to be just the right length so
>> that when the spacers were tight against the bearing (causing the
>> bearing to remain stationary) that the axle would then be tight. I
>> saw something about using a feeler gauge and sanding the end of the
>> axle. According to Ken the axle is used to support the bolt and
>> keep the bearings centered, and it's length should be about 1/16"
>> shorter than the sum of the other parts when torqued.
>>
>> Second the entire assembly should be torqued to the torque spec for
>> the bolt that goes through the fork and axle. He says this seems
>> like a lot of torque, but Matco says that it is fine for that
>> bearing and it gives enough pressure for the new spacers to lock on
>> to the bearing. He says the wheel will be draggy, but that is the
>> way it is supposed to be. Again at this point the axle will be
>> floating inside the assembly. The assembly can also be checked
>> simply by re-torqueing during inspection. This method of
>> adjustment skirts the 'this feels about right' method of
>> adjustment.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa
>> 50036 515-432-6794 mike@cleavelandtool.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From:
>> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>> Olson Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:23 AM To:
>> rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel problem
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> That's basically what I had said was an excellent solution. I'd do
>> it myself, but with the deep grove worn in my fork, I'm not sure
>> how much I want to drill mine until I get a new fork.
>>
>> But, one thing about that solution is that as it wears in, you'll
>> still have to worry about the bearing spinning against the inner
>> edge of that spacer if you don't have lots of tension on it. The
>> seal is draggy on that bearing, and you may end up having the
>> bearing not turn, but turn on the axle shaft instead. If that
>> happens, you're going to need to shave a little off your axle shaft
>> to get the tension back.
>>
>> So you've got a great solution. Randy did about the same thing a
>> couple weeks ago. Just make sure the preload is good on the
>> bearings.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> Wayne Edgerton wrote:
>>> A good friend of mine was down from Iowa this weekend, I'm in the
>>> Dallas area, to help me on my plane. He is a very good A&P and
>>> I'm very lucky to have his help.
>>>
>>> Anyway we discussed the front wheel bushing problems the 10 is
>>> having and here is the solution he suggested to fix the problem
>>> and I think it's a really a good idea. What we did was to take
>>> off the nose wheel fork and we drilled a 1/8inch hole into each
>>> side of the fork. We then inserted roll pins in each of the holes
>>> allowing them to protrude through into the inside by a small
>>> amount. We then took the newly supplied bushings and milled a
>>> small grove into the edge of the bushing which will allow the
>>> roll pin on the interior part of the fork to slide into. This
>>> method will definitely stop the bushing from turning.
>>>
>>> I've attached some photos, which I hope will make it easier to
>>> understand. The focus on the pictures wasn't as good as I would
>>> have liked but you will get the idea. If you can't retrieve the
>>> photos because they aren't on the summary distribution just
>>> e-mail me if you would like to see them I will forward them
>>> directly to you.
>>>
>>> Wayne Edgerton # 40336
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 34
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I have one that I bought from Bruce's covers. Excellent cover. Highly
recommended. Randy DeBauw 40006
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 7:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage covers
Now that I'm about halfway through the flyoff, I'm looking forward to
some serious traveling, which means I probably will have to park her out
in the open. I know there are several canopy/fuselage covers on the
market, does anyone have any experience with them or recommendations.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 35
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TDT is correct. I want the ADI Pilot II as 2 axis autopilot and backup
AI for the GRT EFIS. My panel has been designed for 2.25" backup
instruments with the ADI Pilot in the centre. A 3.5" instrument would
look ugly (and may not even fit). I thought the ADI Pilot II would be
available in 2.25" form factor - perhaps I was wrong. Given David
McNeill is using it as a wing leveller, I expect he is also assuming at
least single axis AP capability (ie ADI Pilot I).
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, 30 August 2006 9:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
I think Ron is asking about a 2 1/4 inch ADI Pilot with autopilot
functions. I think you should check with TruTrak on that, since I don't
think they planned on making a 2 1/4 inch ADI PILOT. The 2 1/4 inch
straight ADI, yes, but putting all the guts in that small package for
autopilot functions, too, might be tough, so I think that will be only
in the 3 1/8 inch one, at least for the time being.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Sent: Wed 8/30/2006 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Last week they told me by the "end of the year". For what it's
worth, I had heard "after OSH" last year, so this one's getting
dragged out pretty far. I'm not sure that I'd trust timelines
from aviation vendors. But, if you're using it for backup,
you could use a 2.25" Turn and Bank indicator in place for a
while and they'd upgrade you when it comes out. That instrument
works pretty well. If it weren't for the ADI giving track
information in addition, I may not have even bothered to upgrade.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> All
>
> Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
> really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to replace
> them in the near future.
>
> cheers,
>
> Ron
>
> 187 finishing
>
> *
>
RV10-List Email Forum -
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
bsp; - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
bsp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
ontribution
Message 36
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack Sargeant" <k5wiv@amsat.org>
Based on the photos of your work and what you have done on this list, I
think that you should be!
Jack & Cecilia Sargeant
1127 Patricia St.
Wichita, KS 67208-2642
316/683-5268
I'm not a TC,
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 37
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I had originally planned to only install a single axis AP (probably
Digitrak) and have installed the roll servo in the right wing. If I now
go Digiflight II, is this roll servo acceptable? Does anyone know the
individual prices for the pitch servo and AP controller for the
Digiflight II and II/VS.
cheers,
Ron
- reconsidering AP (again)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, 31 August 2006 8:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
TDT is correct. I want the ADI Pilot II as 2 axis autopilot and backup
AI for the GRT EFIS. My panel has been designed for 2.25" backup
instruments with the ADI Pilot in the centre. A 3.5" instrument would
look ugly (and may not even fit). I thought the ADI Pilot II would be
available in 2.25" form factor - perhaps I was wrong. Given David
McNeill is using it as a wing leveller, I expect he is also assuming at
least single axis AP capability (ie ADI Pilot I).
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, 30 August 2006 9:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
I think Ron is asking about a 2 1/4 inch ADI Pilot with autopilot
functions. I think you should check with TruTrak on that, since I don't
think they planned on making a 2 1/4 inch ADI PILOT. The 2 1/4 inch
straight ADI, yes, but putting all the guts in that small package for
autopilot functions, too, might be tough, so I think that will be only
in the 3 1/8 inch one, at least for the time being.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Sent: Wed 8/30/2006 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Last week they told me by the "end of the year". For what it's
worth, I had heard "after OSH" last year, so this one's getting
dragged out pretty far. I'm not sure that I'd trust timelines
from aviation vendors. But, if you're using it for backup,
you could use a 2.25" Turn and Bank indicator in place for a
while and they'd upgrade you when it comes out. That instrument
works pretty well. If it weren't for the ADI giving track
information in addition, I may not have even bothered to upgrade.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> All
>
> Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
> really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to replace
> them in the near future.
>
> cheers,
>
> Ron
>
> 187 finishing
>
> *
>
RV10-List Email Forum -
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
bsp; - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
bsp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
ontribution
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 38
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RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot IIHi Ron,
There is currently no huge plans that I know of for a 2.25" ADI-II. It had
been discussed at TTAP, but it was determined that to fit all the "stuff" in
the package the instrument would be far too long/deep for most panel. That
being said, the Digiflight II series, digitraks and pictorial pilots all are
available in 2.25". The all use the exact same servo for the roll...so no
worries on which servo you have. It's a or DSB-C, either way, whichever
servo you already purchased for roll will work fine with all the TruTrak
controllers up to the Sorcerer so the answer is YES your current servo will
work just fine. Prices for the controller on the Digiflight II servie
change based on what version you want, but contact me off list (I don't want
to be accused of doing any stumping here) and I'll help you out - whether
you buy it from me or not.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 6:04 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
I had originally planned to only install a single axis AP (probably
Digitrak) and have installed the roll servo in the right wing. If I now go
Digiflight II, is this roll servo acceptable? Does anyone know the
individual prices for the pitch servo and AP controller for the Digiflight
II and II/VS.
cheers,
Ron
- reconsidering AP (again)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, 31 August 2006 8:15 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
TDT is correct. I want the ADI Pilot II as 2 axis autopilot and backup
AI for the GRT EFIS. My panel has been designed for 2.25" backup
instruments with the ADI Pilot in the centre. A 3.5" instrument would look
ugly (and may not even fit). I thought the ADI Pilot II would be available
in 2.25" form factor - perhaps I was wrong. Given David McNeill is using it
as a wing leveller, I expect he is also assuming at least single axis AP
capability (ie ADI Pilot I).
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, 30 August 2006 9:20 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com; rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
I think Ron is asking about a 2 1/4 inch ADI Pilot with autopilot
functions. I think you should check with TruTrak on that, since I don't
think they planned on making a 2 1/4 inch ADI PILOT. The 2 1/4 inch
straight ADI, yes, but putting all the guts in that small package for
autopilot functions, too, might be tough, so I think that will be only in
the 3 1/8 inch one, at least for the time being.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Sent: Wed 8/30/2006 7:31 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Last week they told me by the "end of the year". For what it's
worth, I had heard "after OSH" last year, so this one's getting
dragged out pretty far. I'm not sure that I'd trust timelines
from aviation vendors. But, if you're using it for backup,
you could use a 2.25" Turn and Bank indicator in place for a
while and they'd upgrade you when it comes out. That instrument
works pretty well. If it weren't for the ADI giving track
information in addition, I may not have even bothered to upgrade.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> All
>
> Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
> really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to replace
> them in the near future.
>
> cheers,
>
> Ron
>
> 187 finishing
>
> *
>
==========
RV10-List Email Forum -
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
bsp; - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
==========
bsp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
==========
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
ontribution
==========
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: ADI Pilot II |
RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot IIThe 2.25" ADI is not the autopilot; it is a
backup instrument for me to fly the aircraft if the Cheltons and the
Digiflite fail... My autopilot is the Digiflite II VSGV.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 3:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
TDT is correct. I want the ADI Pilot II as 2 axis autopilot and
backup AI for the GRT EFIS. My panel has been designed for 2.25" backup
instruments with the ADI Pilot in the centre. A 3.5" instrument would
look ugly (and may not even fit). I thought the ADI Pilot II would be
available in 2.25" form factor - perhaps I was wrong. Given David
McNeill is using it as a wing leveller, I expect he is also assuming at
least single axis AP capability (ie ADI Pilot I).
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, 30 August 2006 9:20 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com; rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
I think Ron is asking about a 2 1/4 inch ADI Pilot with autopilot
functions. I think you should check with TruTrak on that, since I don't
think they planned on making a 2 1/4 inch ADI PILOT. The 2 1/4 inch
straight ADI, yes, but putting all the guts in that small package for
autopilot functions, too, might be tough, so I think that will be only
in the 3 1/8 inch one, at least for the time being.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Sent: Wed 8/30/2006 7:31 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Last week they told me by the "end of the year". For what it's
worth, I had heard "after OSH" last year, so this one's getting
dragged out pretty far. I'm not sure that I'd trust timelines
from aviation vendors. But, if you're using it for backup,
you could use a 2.25" Turn and Bank indicator in place for a
while and they'd upgrade you when it comes out. That instrument
works pretty well. If it weren't for the ADI giving track
information in addition, I may not have even bothered to upgrade.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> All
>
> Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
> really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to
replace
> them in the near future.
>
> cheers,
>
> Ron
>
> 187 finishing
>
> *
>
==========
RV10-List Email Forum -
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
bsp; - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
==========
bsp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
==========
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
ontribution
==========
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 40
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Sorry David, I thought you were talking about an automatic wing
leveller.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, 31 August 2006 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
The 2.25" ADI is not the autopilot; it is a backup instrument for me to
fly the aircraft if the Cheltons and the Digiflite fail... My autopilot
is the Digiflite II VSGV.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 3:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
TDT is correct. I want the ADI Pilot II as 2 axis autopilot and backup
AI for the GRT EFIS. My panel has been designed for 2.25" backup
instruments with the ADI Pilot in the centre. A 3.5" instrument would
look ugly (and may not even fit). I thought the ADI Pilot II would be
available in 2.25" form factor - perhaps I was wrong. Given David
McNeill is using it as a wing leveller, I expect he is also assuming at
least single axis AP capability (ie ADI Pilot I).
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, 30 August 2006 9:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
I think Ron is asking about a 2 1/4 inch ADI Pilot with autopilot
functions. I think you should check with TruTrak on that, since I don't
think they planned on making a 2 1/4 inch ADI PILOT. The 2 1/4 inch
straight ADI, yes, but putting all the guts in that small package for
autopilot functions, too, might be tough, so I think that will be only
in the 3 1/8 inch one, at least for the time being.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Sent: Wed 8/30/2006 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ADI Pilot II
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Last week they told me by the "end of the year". For what it's
worth, I had heard "after OSH" last year, so this one's getting
dragged out pretty far. I'm not sure that I'd trust timelines
from aviation vendors. But, if you're using it for backup,
you could use a 2.25" Turn and Bank indicator in place for a
while and they'd upgrade you when it comes out. That instrument
works pretty well. If it weren't for the ADI giving track
information in addition, I may not have even bothered to upgrade.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> All
>
> Anyone know when the 2 1/4" ADI Pilots will be available? I don't
> really want to install a Pictorial Pilot and Altrak, only to replace
> them in the near future.
>
> cheers,
>
> Ron
>
> 187 finishing
>
> *
>
RV10-List Email Forum -
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
bsp; - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
bsp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
ontribution
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 41
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
You have your work cut out for you, the gear leg fairings and wheel pants
are a lot of work. I spent two full weeks of hard hours doing mine. I
wished I had done them before I put on my wings. They would have been a lot
easier.
Hope to see you at LOE 2006 along with the rest of the Texas crowd. I will
be showing off N710RV newly painted.
Russ Daves
>> Starting wheel and gear leg fairings tomorrow. Pray for me. Hope to
>> finish in time to make it to LOE flyin. Are you going?
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>
>
>
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