Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:14 AM - Re: Matco Parking Brake (Break) Installation (Larry Rosen)
2. 06:00 AM - Re: Airflow Performance Purge Line (Mike Kraus)
3. 06:17 AM - Re: Birthday boy (Rick)
4. 07:09 AM - Converting fixed pitch to constant speed (pilotdds@aol.com)
5. 07:10 AM - Re: Static port question (Tim Olson)
6. 07:25 AM - Re: Since there is no one here can we talk about alternative engines, primer, and painting? (John Jessen)
7. 07:25 AM - ATG goes w/ Op Tech (Deems Davis)
8. 07:28 AM - Re: intake alternate air (pilotdds@aol.com)
9. 09:14 AM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (John Jessen)
10. 09:49 AM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (Kelly McMullen)
11. 09:59 AM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (Phillips, Jack)
12. 10:20 AM - Re: Static port question (John W. Cox)
13. 11:07 AM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (Pascal)
14. 11:11 AM - Tunnel Temp w/rear heat (Tim Olson)
15. 11:17 AM - Re: Static port question (Tim Olson)
16. 11:20 AM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (Kelly McMullen)
17. 11:37 AM - Re: ATG goes w/ Op Tech (Patrick Thyssen)
18. 11:47 AM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (Javier Henderson)
19. 12:08 PM - Re: ATG goes w/ Op Tech (John Cram)
20. 12:44 PM - Re: Static port question (Rick)
21. 01:42 PM - Re: Static port question (John Gonzalez)
22. 02:03 PM - Re: Static port question (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
23. 02:29 PM - Re: Static port question (Tim Olson)
24. 02:51 PM - Re: Static port question (David McNeill)
25. 02:54 PM - Re: Static port question (David McNeill)
26. 03:00 PM - Re: Static port question (David McNeill)
27. 03:32 PM - Re: Build times - time to get restarted? (John Jessen)
28. 04:11 PM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (John Jessen)
29. 04:14 PM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (Jack Sargeant)
30. 05:20 PM - Re: Converting fixed pitch to constant speed (Marcus Cooper)
31. 05:31 PM - spinner fitting (David McNeill)
32. 05:38 PM - Re: ATG goes w/ Op Tech (Deems Davis)
33. 05:56 PM - Re: spinner fitting (elhershb@comcast.net)
34. 06:11 PM - Re: spinner fitting (David McNeill)
35. 06:46 PM - Required tools (John Hasbrouck)
36. 07:01 PM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (EFDsteve@aol.com)
37. 08:04 PM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (Kelly McMullen)
38. 08:47 PM - Re: Since there is no one here can we talk about alternative engines, primer, and painting? (Rob Wright)
39. 08:57 PM - Re: spinner fitting (Rob Wright)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking Brake (Break) Installation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Thanks Albert.
For you old timers sorry about the James McClow.
Albert Gardner wrote:
> Here is one way. The kit included a bracket for the TruTrak pitch servo that
> didn't work as well as the one TruTrak provided with the pitch servo they
> sent me so I used it to make the bracket that holds the push/pull cable that
> those excellent guys at Spruce sent me.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 #422
> Yuma, AZ
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
> Many have installed the Matco parking break valve on the inside of the
> firewall Has anyone routed / connected up the control cable yet?
> How did you do it? Any pictures?
> Larry Rosen
> RV-10 #356
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Airflow Performance Purge Line |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>Why did you not just use a "T" with flared ends instead of pipe
threads and pipe-to-flare fittings?<<
Same reason I didn't - because the return line is #4 line and the fuel
tank lines are #6.... So you have to use an AN6 tee with a pipe end,
then a reducer to a AN4 fitting. I have the exact same set up in my
-10, but I tapped into the left tank line instead of the right tank
line.
Mike Kraus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airflow Performance Purge Line
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Beautiful layout. With the selector on the right tank and the purged
fuel into the left line between the tank and the selector, you force the
fuel back into the tank without running a complete return line. Why did
you not just use a "T" with flared ends instead of pipe threads and
pipe-to-flare fittings?
Do not archive?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airflow Performance Purge Line
--> RV10-List message posted by: rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net>
Here is how I routed mine...
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rv10builder&project=7
&cat
egory=501&log=15056&row=19
Brian
40308
Tom Gesele wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
>
> Can anyone with an airflow performance fuel injection system installed
> on the -10 tell me where they penetrated the firewall for the purge
> line. I'm planning on installing a 45 deg bulkhead fitting in the same
> location (opposite side) as the fitting for the fuel line and want to
> ensure there are no interference issues with running the purge line
> from there. Also,
if
> anyone has a picture of the setup from the engine side that they could
> forward, I'd appreciate it.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Gesele #473
>
>
>
> .
>
>
--
--
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Birthday boy |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Thanks Deem's!!
Yup I did.
Rick S.
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Converting fixed pitch to constant speed |
Could any of you folks knowledgable about the conversion advise me if external
oil lines are necesary when making this conversion.My understanding is that the
outside plug must be removed a 1/8 plug must be placed inside the crankshaft
and external oil lines are necesary for rear mounte governors but not front
mounted type. Is this correct? 728dd-flying
________________________________________________________________________
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Static port question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
New news from me on Static ports.
Note: I know nothing about the SafeAir ones.
I have the original cleaveland ones. They are supposed to sit
out about .010" from the skin, and you're supposed to paint
them so they do stick out. (Just found that out yesterday).
I've been doing some test flights to check my airspeed accuracy,
and I found that I was about 6.5-7.5kts TAS low in cruise.
My static ports are absolutely flush, unpainted, and even with the
skin.
Last night, I did a test, I took some .050 material, and cut 2
small discs and drilled a small hole. I stuck those over the
static ports and taped them down with plain old scotch tape.
I test-flew it again and found that I am now only 4 kts off
in my TAS. So there is definitely some importance to the static
port design on an RV-10.
Yesterday I got on the way from Cleaveland a pair of their newer
static ports. I saw them on an RV-10 at Van's Homecoming. They
stick out a ways and are domed in shape. My guess is that these
will be much better than the original flat ones, based on the
quick and dirty test from last night.
My main point is, make sure you don't have flush static ports,
and that you have at least some part of them sticking out past
the skin. Again, I don't know what the SafeAir's are like,
and I've never really heard anyone provide any data on playing
around with their airspeed to see if it was accurate. If you have
the original flush ones or yours don't stick out, perhaps some
machining or filing of the backside of them where they hit the
skin would be in order. Just make sure they stick out a little.
Also, I encourage you builders to go out once you're flying
and actually gather and provide some data on your planes.
It's pretty rare that we see any true specs beyond the
minimum amount of info, but it's the only way to get good data.
In my case, I want the airspeed as accurate as possible. The
Chelton's calculate TAS, and from the heading offset from
ground track and TAS and Groundspeed, they calculate winds.
This can be pretty accurate, but imagine this:
Groundspeed is 160kts, TAS shows as 157kts, but the TAS is
reading 6kts low. So the system *thinks* you have a tail wind,
cruising over ground faster than through the air. In reality,
you have a light headwind. The lower the winds, and the
larger the error in airspeed, the more incorrect these
values can become. I'm going to keep playing and hopefully
get my error down to at most a couple KTS. I have 3 separate
instruments all reading the same airspeed, so it's not instrument
error.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
jdalton77 wrote:
> Since we're on the static port question, and for those of you in the
> know, is there any significant reason, other than appearance, to go with
> the SafeAir vs. the Vans "pop rivet?" For those who have installed the
> Cleveland, how about that one. It sure looks nice and it's a lot
> cheaper than the SafeAir.
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Bill DeRouchey <mailto:billderou@yahoo.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 05, 2006 3:11 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Static port question
>
> Sorry no pictures - but -
> I believe the only critical item is routing both ports up to the
> highest point on the nearest bulkhead and then tee off for a single
> run to the panel. This will drain the water back out the port and
> not into the instrumentation.
>
> It would also be a good idea to perform a leak test and a flying
> test. Without a correct static port no instrumentation on your panel
> can be be accurate.
>
> A simple flying test, derived from a very few observations, is
> to open your static line inside the cockpit during a flight. The
> altitude should increase 200 feet (or so). If it decreases then your
> static port is drawing a vacuum and your airspeeds will be
> incorrectly low and your altitudes high.
>
> Bill DeRouchey
> N939SB, Flying
> billderou@yahoo.com <mailto:billderou@yahoo.com>
>
>
> */Ben Westfall <rv10@sinkrate.com>/* wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any pictures of how they ran their static port
> tubing? Did you drill out holes for bushings in the ribs and
> what size did you use? I went with the Vans pop-rivet kit
> because I never got around to researching anything else and the
> time has come to install.
>
> Any pointers would be appreciated.
>
> -Ben Westfall
> via the Web List Wiki! ontribution ==========
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Since there is no one here can we talk about alternative |
engines, primer, and painting?
Got more specifics? Who overhauled it, etc?
John J
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Since there is no one here can we talk about
alternative engines, primer, and painting?
How about $32K for a first run IO-540 with new cylinders, EIS ignition, and
overhaul?
Rob Wright
#392
Closed up Left Wing tonight...
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jdalton77
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 4:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Since there is no one here can we talk about alternative
engines, primer, and painting?
H aha ha.
Seriously, any way to not spend 40k on an engine?
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | ATG goes w/ Op Tech |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
FYI, Another vendor just made Op Tech their EFIS. Here's a link from
Aero News announcing ATG's decision to make Op Tech their Glass panel
vendor:
http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=98e9caf0-593b-4468-9030-528ee62b8329&#d
Deems Davis # 406
Wiring Op Tech Panel
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: intake alternate air |
Make sure you are aware of vans servce bulletin to replace the hinge on the alternate
air.My engine ingested the magnet.No damage but scary.
-----Original Message-----
From: dlm46007@cox.net
Sent: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 10:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: intake alternate air
For those operating the IO540 D4A5, are you installing both hinged alternate door
on the front of the box and the emergency air door on the bottom of the box?
________________________________________________________________________
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Required tools for toolbox kit |
All good suggestions, but one overall strategy would be to go to Cleveland
or Avery, buy their tool kit, then turn to the wife and say you need an
empennage to go with it. After all, what use are all those tools without
something to build?
Hope she has a sense of humor!
John J
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Required tools for toolbox kit
John;
I know the feeling!
Check out Van's site http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rqd-tool.htm this
will tell you what is needed for the tool kit. someone recommended you get
the starter kit from cleveland-
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EMPKITW that would be
the easiest solution. I have the same kit and am slowly finding good tools
on e-bay but eventually will buy everything from different vendors. I would
recommend you take the sportair course. $300 or so dollars and you'll
basically build the toolkit in a teaching environment, certainly less than
buying tools before their time.
If you're experienced and don't need the course, have an air compressor and
plan to start the kit within the year buy the tools.
I have spent numerous hours planning, so feel free to contact me with any
further questions.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: John R. Lewis <mailto:john@aspzone.com>
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 11:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Required tools for toolbox kit
I spent a few hours bumming around Vans today, and came home with a stupid
grin on my face because I got to ride in the RV-10. All I've ever flown in
is a Cessna 172. I was absolutely amazed at how the RV-10 performed.
I also came home with the toolbox kit. It seems that I am going to need
quite a few tools. As I am not going to be building my RV-10 right away, I
am going to have trouble convincing my wife that I need to order several
hundred dollars worth of tools from Cleveland or Avery for this little
toolbox project.
What is the minimum list of tools I will need?
Where is a good source for finding what I need used or otherwise discounted?
---
John R. Lewis
john@aspzone.com
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Required tools for toolbox kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
In a slightly more serious light, what tools would you suggest purchasing
in the Sears Craftsman line, given that I already know my current
compressor is too light duty, too noisey, don't have any shop power tools
like grinder, band saw, drill press etc. and just happen to have a nice
credit balance there to play with. I anticipate getting the majority of
riveting/sheet metal tools from Cleaveland, Avery & other aircraft
sources. So I'm just looking at non-aviation specific stuff to buy at
Sears.
> All good suggestions, but one overall strategy would be to go to Cleveland
> or Avery, buy their tool kit, then turn to the wife and say you need an
> empennage to go with it. After all, what use are all those tools without
> something to build?
>
> Hope she has a sense of humor!
>
> John J
>
> do not archive
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Required tools for toolbox kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
My rule of thumb is "Don't buy anything from Sears that requires
gasoline or electricity." Their hand tools are ok.
Seriously, I've got a Sears 12" bandsaw and with a metal cutting balde,
it is fine for most of the aluminum cutting you will be doing.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Horizontal Stabilizer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Required tools for toolbox kit
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
In a slightly more serious light, what tools would you suggest
purchasing
in the Sears Craftsman line, given that I already know my current
compressor is too light duty, too noisey, don't have any shop power
tools
like grinder, band saw, drill press etc. and just happen to have a nice
credit balance there to play with. I anticipate getting the majority of
riveting/sheet metal tools from Cleaveland, Avery & other aircraft
sources. So I'm just looking at non-aviation specific stuff to buy at
Sears.
_________________________________________________
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Static port question |
Here is a shot of the solution Dr. Carl Cadwell used on his Lancair IVP.
Sorry to the string and can folks. That was before he started such a
stir with his Epic LT which has led to the 51% Rule rewrite.
These static ports are critical in their exact location and design for
accurate pressure indication. Horseshoes and hand grenades are not
going to do it. You should see what is necessary for RSVM mapping.
John Cox
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static port question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
New news from me on Static ports.
Note: I know nothing about the SafeAir ones.
I have the original cleaveland ones. They are supposed to sit
out about .010" from the skin, and you're supposed to paint
them so they do stick out. (Just found that out yesterday).
I've been doing some test flights to check my airspeed accuracy,
and I found that I was about 6.5-7.5kts TAS low in cruise.
My static ports are absolutely flush, unpainted, and even with the
skin.
Last night, I did a test, I took some .050 material, and cut 2
small discs and drilled a small hole. I stuck those over the
static ports and taped them down with plain old scotch tape.
I test-flew it again and found that I am now only 4 kts off
in my TAS. So there is definitely some importance to the static
port design on an RV-10.
Yesterday I got on the way from Cleaveland a pair of their newer
static ports. I saw them on an RV-10 at Van's Homecoming. They
stick out a ways and are domed in shape. My guess is that these
will be much better than the original flat ones, based on the
quick and dirty test from last night.
My main point is, make sure you don't have flush static ports,
and that you have at least some part of them sticking out past
the skin. Again, I don't know what the SafeAir's are like,
and I've never really heard anyone provide any data on playing
around with their airspeed to see if it was accurate. If you have
the original flush ones or yours don't stick out, perhaps some
machining or filing of the backside of them where they hit the
skin would be in order. Just make sure they stick out a little.
Also, I encourage you builders to go out once you're flying
and actually gather and provide some data on your planes.
It's pretty rare that we see any true specs beyond the
minimum amount of info, but it's the only way to get good data.
In my case, I want the airspeed as accurate as possible. The
Chelton's calculate TAS, and from the heading offset from
ground track and TAS and Groundspeed, they calculate winds.
This can be pretty accurate, but imagine this:
Groundspeed is 160kts, TAS shows as 157kts, but the TAS is
reading 6kts low. So the system *thinks* you have a tail wind,
cruising over ground faster than through the air. In reality,
you have a light headwind. The lower the winds, and the
larger the error in airspeed, the more incorrect these
values can become. I'm going to keep playing and hopefully
get my error down to at most a couple KTS. I have 3 separate
instruments all reading the same airspeed, so it's not instrument
error.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Required tools for toolbox kit |
if you want a good 110v compressor?- less noisey and can do most of the
plane - short of painting Craftsman 25Gallon
if the link fails
www.sears.com
search for item # 00919541000
That should clear up that credit quick!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Required tools for toolbox kit
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen"
<kellym@aviating.com>
>
> In a slightly more serious light, what tools would you suggest
purchasing
> in the Sears Craftsman line, given that I already know my current
> compressor is too light duty, too noisey, don't have any shop power
tools
> like grinder, band saw, drill press etc. and just happen to have a
nice
> credit balance there to play with. I anticipate getting the majority
of
> riveting/sheet metal tools from Cleaveland, Avery & other aircraft
> sources. So I'm just looking at non-aviation specific stuff to buy at
> Sears.
>
>> All good suggestions, but one overall strategy would be to go to
Cleveland
>> or Avery, buy their tool kit, then turn to the wife and say you need
an
>> empennage to go with it. After all, what use are all those tools
without
>> something to build?
>>
>> Hope she has a sense of humor!
>>
>> John J
>>
>> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tunnel Temp w/rear heat |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
On my recent trip, I noticed that when the rear heat is on, the
entire tunnel temp gets pretty warm too. So it may be nice to
wrap insulation around the SCAT tubing to help keep the heat
out of the tunnel that way too. Also, don't go barefoot with
the heat on....those rudder pedals get mighty warm with the
heat blowing on them. With the front heat off though, it's
very nice.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Static port question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wow, that's the first time I've ever seen such a thing as that.
Very interesting. Maybe tonight or tomorrow I'll stick something
thick on the plane in front of the port like that just to see
what happens. I've never used a hand grenade, but M-80's and
firecrackers can be fun. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 138 hrs
do not archive
John W. Cox wrote:
> Here is a shot of the solution Dr. Carl Cadwell used on his Lancair IVP.
> Sorry to the string and can folks. That was before he started such a
> stir with his Epic LT which has led to the 51% Rule rewrite.
>
> These static ports are critical in their exact location and design for
> accurate pressure indication. Horseshoes and hand grenades are not
> going to do it. You should see what is necessary for RSVM mapping.
>
> John Cox
> Do not Archive
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Required tools for toolbox kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
Thank you for the recommendation. Any issues with oil lubed pump to be
concerned with? I was aware they tend to run quieter than the oiless
pumps.
That would be a big plus.
> if you want a good 110v compressor?- less noisey and can do most of the
> plane - short of painting Craftsman 25Gallon
>
> if the link fails
> www.sears.com
> search for item # 00919541000
>
> That should clear up that credit quick!
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ATG goes w/ Op Tech |
Deems, I got OP Tech efis intergrated system at Sun n Fun and having my panel
cut this week. At Oshkosh We bought a Pcas system XRX by Zaon, Using it in my
C310,and got OP( DEXTER) and them to talk. Dexter is suppose to see if we can
get it talking and diplay on the screeen FYI. It has a 232 port.
I finally bought a power supply and fired up both displays, They look pretty
good if I say so myself.
Pat Thyssen
Houston area #257
Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis
FYI, Another vendor just made Op Tech their EFIS. Here's a link from
Aero News announcing ATG's decision to make Op Tech their Glass panel
vendor:
http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=98e9caf0-593b-4468-9030-528ee62b8329&#d
Deems Davis # 406
Wiring Op Tech Panel
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Required tools for toolbox kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Javier Henderson <javier@kjsl.com>
On Sep 6, 2006, at 2:20 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Thank you for the recommendation. Any issues with oil lubed pump to be
> concerned with? I was aware they tend to run quieter than the oiless
> pumps.
They are quieter, and they last longer than the dry pumps, indeed.
-jav
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ATG goes w/ Op Tech |
Pat, what part of the Houston area are you. We are going to be building
there also.
John Cram
40569 Emp.
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Thyssen<mailto:jump2@sbcglobal.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ATG goes w/ Op Tech
Deems, I got OP Tech efis intergrated system at Sun n Fun and having
my panel cut this week. At Oshkosh We bought a Pcas system XRX by
Zaon, Using it in my C310,and got OP( DEXTER) and them to talk. Dexter
is suppose to see if we can get it talking and diplay on the screeen
FYI. It has a 232 port.
I finally bought a power supply and fired up both displays, They look
pretty good if I say so myself.
Pat Thyssen
Houston area #257
Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis
FYI, Another vendor just made Op Tech their EFIS. Here's a link from
Aero News announcing ATG's decision to make Op Tech their Glass
panel
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Static port question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
That's not all that unusual, it seems a bit extreme but it does allow the air to
breakup over the actual port. If I recall the oply problems folks have had with
the Cleaveland ports (I'm using those) is making them flush with the skin.
I think Mike piped in about the face of the port needs to be a thousandth or
so above the actual aircraft skin otherwise the hole will act like a venturi and
create a negative static pressure as the airflow passes over the static port.
Rick S.
40185
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Static port question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Not that I really know, but doesn't this venturi happen anyway and isn't
that why there is a port on both sides of the fuselage to cancel out the
negatives and positives of the other port?
My sailplane has a total of six in the tail boom located 120 degrees apart
and they are as flush as they can be.
John G.
>From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static port question
>Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 12:43:31 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
>That's not all that unusual, it seems a bit extreme but it does allow the
>air to breakup over the actual port. If I recall the oply problems folks
>have had with the Cleaveland ports (I'm using those) is making them flush
>with the skin. I think Mike piped in about the face of the port needs to be
>a thousandth or so above the actual aircraft skin otherwise the hole will
>act like a venturi and create a negative static pressure as the airflow
>passes over the static port.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Static port question |
No kidding. I'm in Cali for a few days with the Air Force Reserve, and
we had to plow out here at FL280 because, even though our RVSM
modification has been done, the FAA is taking it's time with the
paperwork! And plowing along at that altitude meant we had to make a
fuel stop because we can't take off from our home base with a full load
. . .
TDT
40025
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Sent: Wed 9/6/2006 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static port question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wow, that's the first time I've ever seen such a thing as that.
Very interesting. Maybe tonight or tomorrow I'll stick something
thick on the plane in front of the port like that just to see
what happens. I've never used a hand grenade, but M-80's and
firecrackers can be fun. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 138 hrs
do not archive
John W. Cox wrote:
> Here is a shot of the solution Dr. Carl Cadwell used on his Lancair
IVP.
> Sorry to the string and can folks. That was before he started such a
> stir with his Epic LT which has led to the 51% Rule rewrite.
>
> These static ports are critical in their exact location and design for
> accurate pressure indication. Horseshoes and hand grenades are not
> going to do it. You should see what is necessary for RSVM mapping.
>
> John Cox
> Do not Archive
>
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Static port question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think it would depend on the plane and the location for how it
all works in the end. I'm not sure I agree with what Rick said
below though exactly the way he said it. It would seem to me
that if you had a venturi effect giving a little negative
pressure to the static system that you could end up with an
airspeed reading that would be HIGH, since the differential pressure
would be greater....not low. Mine is 6.5-7.5kts low with the
flush ports, and with them sticking out it's more like 4
so far. I'm hoping to figure out exactly what dynamics make it
perfect.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> Not that I really know, but doesn't this venturi happen anyway and isn't
> that why there is a port on both sides of the fuselage to cancel out the
> negatives and positives of the other port?
>
> My sailplane has a total of six in the tail boom located 120 degrees
> apart and they are as flush as they can be.
>
> John G.
>
>
>> From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static port question
>> Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 12:43:31 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>
>> That's not all that unusual, it seems a bit extreme but it does allow
>> the air to breakup over the actual port. If I recall the oply problems
>> folks have had with the Cleaveland ports (I'm using those) is making
>> them flush with the skin. I think Mike piped in about the face of the
>> port needs to be a thousandth or so above the actual aircraft skin
>> otherwise the hole will act like a venturi and create a negative
>> static pressure as the airflow passes over the static port.
>>
>> Rick S.
>> 40185
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Static port question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
I believe the static port each side plumbed together is intended to help
cancel out slips and skids which might cause higher or lower pressures than
normal. Now about the yaw damper.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static port question
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I think it would depend on the plane and the location for how it
> all works in the end. I'm not sure I agree with what Rick said
> below though exactly the way he said it. It would seem to me
> that if you had a venturi effect giving a little negative
> pressure to the static system that you could end up with an
> airspeed reading that would be HIGH, since the differential pressure
> would be greater....not low. Mine is 6.5-7.5kts low with the
> flush ports, and with them sticking out it's more like 4
> so far. I'm hoping to figure out exactly what dynamics make it
> perfect.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>
>> Not that I really know, but doesn't this venturi happen anyway and isn't
>> that why there is a port on both sides of the fuselage to cancel out the
>> negatives and positives of the other port?
>>
>> My sailplane has a total of six in the tail boom located 120 degrees
>> apart and they are as flush as they can be.
>>
>> John G.
>>
>>
>>> From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static port question
>>> Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 12:43:31 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>> That's not all that unusual, it seems a bit extreme but it does allow
>>> the air to breakup over the actual port. If I recall the oply problems
>>> folks have had with the Cleaveland ports (I'm using those) is making
>>> them flush with the skin. I think Mike piped in about the face of the
>>> port needs to be a thousandth or so above the actual aircraft skin
>>> otherwise the hole will act like a venturi and create a negative static
>>> pressure as the airflow passes over the static port.
>>>
>>> Rick S.
>>> 40185
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Static port question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
BTW the static ports on my certified Cardinal RG were each side of the
fuselage just forward of the doors and were a 40 hole in the skin.
completely flush.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static port question
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I think it would depend on the plane and the location for how it
> all works in the end. I'm not sure I agree with what Rick said
> below though exactly the way he said it. It would seem to me
> that if you had a venturi effect giving a little negative
> pressure to the static system that you could end up with an
> airspeed reading that would be HIGH, since the differential pressure
> would be greater....not low. Mine is 6.5-7.5kts low with the
> flush ports, and with them sticking out it's more like 4
> so far. I'm hoping to figure out exactly what dynamics make it
> perfect.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>
>> Not that I really know, but doesn't this venturi happen anyway and isn't
>> that why there is a port on both sides of the fuselage to cancel out the
>> negatives and positives of the other port?
>>
>> My sailplane has a total of six in the tail boom located 120 degrees
>> apart and they are as flush as they can be.
>>
>> John G.
>>
>>
>>> From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static port question
>>> Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 12:43:31 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>> That's not all that unusual, it seems a bit extreme but it does allow
>>> the air to breakup over the actual port. If I recall the oply problems
>>> folks have had with the Cleaveland ports (I'm using those) is making
>>> them flush with the skin. I think Mike piped in about the face of the
>>> port needs to be a thousandth or so above the actual aircraft skin
>>> otherwise the hole will act like a venturi and create a negative static
>>> pressure as the airflow passes over the static port.
>>>
>>> Rick S.
>>> 40185
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Static port question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
One other thought; My certified pitot tube on the Glastar has the static
ports in the pitot tube and flush to the side of the pitot tube . They are
four holes in a line on the bottom (parallel to the wing) and four holes on
a line on the top. probable reason to compensate for the angle of attack of
the wing at any given moment.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static port question
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I think it would depend on the plane and the location for how it
> all works in the end. I'm not sure I agree with what Rick said
> below though exactly the way he said it. It would seem to me
> that if you had a venturi effect giving a little negative
> pressure to the static system that you could end up with an
> airspeed reading that would be HIGH, since the differential pressure
> would be greater....not low. Mine is 6.5-7.5kts low with the
> flush ports, and with them sticking out it's more like 4
> so far. I'm hoping to figure out exactly what dynamics make it
> perfect.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>
>> Not that I really know, but doesn't this venturi happen anyway and isn't
>> that why there is a port on both sides of the fuselage to cancel out the
>> negatives and positives of the other port?
>>
>> My sailplane has a total of six in the tail boom located 120 degrees
>> apart and they are as flush as they can be.
>>
>> John G.
>>
>>
>>> From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static port question
>>> Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 12:43:31 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>> That's not all that unusual, it seems a bit extreme but it does allow
>>> the air to breakup over the actual port. If I recall the oply problems
>>> folks have had with the Cleaveland ports (I'm using those) is making
>>> them flush with the skin. I think Mike piped in about the face of the
>>> port needs to be a thousandth or so above the actual aircraft skin
>>> otherwise the hole will act like a venturi and create a negative static
>>> pressure as the airflow passes over the static port.
>>>
>>> Rick S.
>>> 40185
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Build times - time to get restarted? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Larry:
Others have given replies to this that are on target, but I want to share a
thought or two since I have come very close to selling my project a couple
of times and found I could not let it go. I almost didn't bite on this
topic because of the personal nature that encompasses why each of us builds.
We all love flying and to a degree building, but beyond that I'm sure we
each have our reasons to take on such large a project, and thus wasn't sure
if my two cents meant much beyond me.
I have often said to my friends and fellow builders that if I can't get this
plane in the air in two or three years then why bother. I'm getting older
and the reason to build is to fly a plane that is way more than I could have
afforded otherwise, one that is fast, great to fly, holds a bunch,
comfortable, and so on. I've also said to friends and fellow builders that
I don't keep track of my build time (or at least very accurately) because I
love to build and this thing will get done when it gets done. I've looked
at my wallet a few times and have heard the echoes of emptiness that reminds
one of a vast cave, a deep cavern with no chance of filling up while this
project continues. I've read Tim's thoughts, as well as others, that we
best be enjoying flying now, for we may not be able to for long, given this
and that cost or this or that regulation, and I've practically gone into a
psychological tail spin thinking of all the problems and consequences.
But.......
I cannot wait to get out to the hanger and back at it after this latest
round of a month hiatus due to travel. I may never finish in the timeframe
that I'd like, but I love the building and the camaraderie so much, and it
has become such a part of my thinking, my daily mental routine, that I doubt
I'd be happy without it. I've fallen behind my goals, and my building
neighbors, but I've learned so much about so many things that would have
passed me by. More importantly, I've learned more about myself, my ability
to learn new skills, to improvise, to seek out answers based in fact, to
enjoy the time spent at a project that will become a legacy to those who
know me and my love of flying. Even if I only get to fly it for a few
years, my son will love it, and what a gift to give to another who loves
flying so much. This will be as much of a legacy gift as any of the other
things I've built, and in the meantime I'll have had a wealth of good
feeling making all those parts fly in close formation and meeting all the
folks along the way.
Anyway, I guess my point is that, if you can find the time, and if you can
find the resources over that time, I wouldn't get depressed at the progress.
Decide what it means to you to build, not what it means to you to hurry up
and fly. If you love the building, then let it be the most compelling and
amazingly broad hobby a person can have. It'll take a few more years then
you'd planned, but what good project doesn't demand more of us? If you
really want it done faster, then plan on at least one night a week, maybe
two, that you set aside for building, plus one full weekend day. Negotiate
that with your family and then stick to it, except for family time. You do
not have to build this magnificent flying machine, but you certainly can and
will if you want to! Plus, you'll have the support of all us other
builders, cheering each of us on.
John Jessen
Tailcone 40328
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry R
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 9:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Build times - time to get restarted?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry R <_lr_@yahoo.com>
I was one of the first to buy a tail kit (#22), but life intruded and after
some initial progress the kid has been untouched for the last 2 years. I'm
now getting the itch to get hack into the project, but I'm wonder if I've
bit off more than I can chew.
I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has completed, or nearly
completed a Quick-Build RV-10, regard times to completion for each of the
sub-kits (empecone, wings, etc). Did you try to optimize for lowest cost of
fastest build time? What major obstacles did you hit? What words of
advice/encouragement would you offer?
Its getting depressing to see the tail parts hanging there every time I pull
into the garage. Its time for me to either get my you-know-what in gear or
admit to myself that this isn't going to happen and sell the tail kit.
Replies directly to this email _lr_@yahoo.com are welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Larry Rachman
ISP
__________________________________________________
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Required tools for toolbox kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Kelly,
Sears tools are fine. For example, you can buy a Sears or Delta table top
band saw from them that will do almost anything you'll want for the kit, for
about $100. A Sears or Delta table top drill press would also be good.
Both should be considered a necessity. You can get a 25 gal oiled
compressor for around $400 that will give you good service for everything
except final painting and even there you might be able to get by with one if
you know what you're doing (it's not the gallons so much as the air one can
pump through. Check the amount of air various models put out per minute and
I think you'll find that most small compressors fall short for extended
painting). Paint guns as well. Air hoses and assorted air goodies. Of
course, buy your rivet guns and air drills elsewhere. Usually Sears carries
things for the auto trade, not airplane building.
You can also find all sorts of clamps, table vises, Dremels and Dremel
supplies, even an inch/pound torque wrench from Sears which works well
enough, although some advise to get the best you can with torque wrenches.
I also bought a great roll around tool cart and top chest on sale (almost
everything at Sears is on sale at some point) and a set of mechanics tools
since I'd given my others away when I moved. Also, how about a slow
turning, high torque portable electric screw driver, if you think you'll use
that to help with deburring, which I do. Fine caliber measuring tools, such
as steel rules and micrometers can be found there. I also think they carry
unibits. Get the brand named one. Also, grab a long handled mechanics
mirror to check those nasty, out of sight rivet heads you'll be making.
I'm sure there are more odds and ends. Look at the Workshop / Tool pages of
my web site (www.jessen-RV10.com) for some suggestions. It's not a complete
list by any stretch of the imagination, so check other sites, such as Dan
Checkoway's site, which I believe has a tool section. There are many more.
Some folks even have every tool they've ever used listed on spreadsheets
available from their sites.
Have fun!
John Jessen
40328 Tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Required tools for toolbox kit
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
In a slightly more serious light, what tools would you suggest purchasing in
the Sears Craftsman line, given that I already know my current compressor is
too light duty, too noisey, don't have any shop power tools like grinder,
band saw, drill press etc. and just happen to have a nice credit balance
there to play with. I anticipate getting the majority of riveting/sheet
metal tools from Cleaveland, Avery & other aircraft sources. So I'm just
looking at non-aviation specific stuff to buy at Sears.
> All good suggestions, but one overall strategy would be to go to
> Cleveland or Avery, buy their tool kit, then turn to the wife and say
> you need an empennage to go with it. After all, what use are all
> those tools without something to build?
>
> Hope she has a sense of humor!
>
> John J
>
> do not archive
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Required tools for toolbox kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack Sargeant" <k5wiv@amsat.org>
I wouldn't even consider an oil less. But with the oil lubed, you will need
a good oil separator/filter for use with a rivet squeezer and with painting
equipment.
Jack & Cecilia Sargeant
1127 Patricia St.
Wichita, KS 67208-2642
316/683-5268
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Required tools for toolbox kit
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
Thank you for the recommendation. Any issues with oil lubed pump to be
concerned with? I was aware they tend to run quieter than the oiless
pumps.
That would be a big plus.
> if you want a good 110v compressor?- less noisey and can do most of the
> plane - short of painting Craftsman 25Gallon
>
> if the link fails
> www.sears.com
> search for item # 00919541000
>
> That should clear up that credit quick!
>
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Converting fixed pitch to constant speed |
I can't help with the 1/8 plug, but you will need to remove the outside plug
and there are no oil lines on a front mounted governor.
Marcus
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 10:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Converting fixed pitch to constant speed
Could any of you folks knowledgable about the conversion advise me if
external oil lines are necesary when making this conversion.My understanding
is that the outside plug must be removed a 1/8 plug must be placed inside
the crankshaft and external oil lines are necesary for rear mounte governors
but not front mounted type. Is this correct? 728dd-flying
_____
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Just got the spinner directions out to prepare the spinner for the prop. The
directions refer to a section 12 of the builders manual. Unable to find
same; it probably contains a template for cutting the blade cutouts and the
callouts for the nutplates and spinner prep. Any clues on where to look?
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ATG goes w/ Op Tech |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I'm in the process of wiring my panel for dual Op Tech portrait
screens. (non-integrated with a Garmin stack + Freeflight WAAS). I've
had the power to them several times, and run them in DEMO mode for
hours. I have NO experience in ANY glass/EFIS environment, so I don't
have any frame of reference for Op Tech vs Chelton or any other EFIS/MFD
but I"M TOTALLY BLOWN AWAY by the functionality that I see here. I love
how you can get Sooooo much info presented on a single screen, and then
you can configure the other screen for full page views, etc. or you can
have them mirror the main. I also love the embedded IFR charts, I've
"flown' several approaches in DEMO mode and it's so cool the way if
flies the approach as well as the 'missed' and it shows you your
progress (on the chart) down the approach path (vertically and
horizontally!). I believe that this potentially can/will take a lot of
the workload out of IFR.
RE XRX , if ZAON has an RS 232 hardware interface it should just be a
matter of software for Dexter. I hope they do it!
Are you doing your own install? Please keep us posted on your progress.
I'm not to the point where I'm ready to power things up yet, and all of
this wiring stuff is a whole new set of skills I'm learning/slowly
acquiring.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Patrick Thyssen wrote:
> Deems, I got OP Tech efis intergrated system at Sun n Fun and having
> my panel cut this week. At Oshkosh We bought a Pcas system XRX by
> Zaon, Using it in my C310,and got OP( DEXTER) and them to talk. Dexter
> is suppose to see if we can get it talking and diplay on the screeen
> FYI. It has a 232 port.
> I finally bought a power supply and fired up both displays, They look
> pretty good if I say so myself.
> Pat Thyssen
> Houston area #257
>
> */Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>/* wrote:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis
>
> FYI, Another vendor just made Op Tech their EFIS. Here's a link from
> Aero News announcing ATG's decision to make Op Tech their Glass panel
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: spinner fitting |
I just checked my build manual and the instructions for fitting the spinner are
found in section 47, pages 2 &3.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill"
>
> Just got the spinner directions out to prepare the spinner for the prop. The
> directions refer to a section 12 of the builders manual. Unable to find
> same; it probably contains a template for cutting the blade cutouts and the
> callouts for the nutplates and spinner prep. Any clues on where to look?
>
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>I just checked my build manual and the instructions for fitting the spinner
are found in section 47, pages 2 &3.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
much
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: spinner fitting |
Thanks:
----- Original Message -----
From: elhershb@comcast.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: spinner fitting
I just checked my build manual and the instructions for fitting the
spinner are found in section 47, pages 2 &3.
much
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
My $.02 regarding tools. I bought the tool kit from Cleaveland and have
been satisfied with the quality and service I've received from them. Sears
supplied the rest of the stuff I've been using. 9" band saw, bench top
drill press, bench grinder, Dremel tool with flexible extension, air
compressor ( oiless) and torque wrenches. My space was limited and to be
honest I'd have bought a larger band saw and drill press if the room was
available but these have been fine. The compressor is a noisy SOB and would
buy an oiled version if I had to do it over. I don't plan on painting the
plane myself so an oiled compressor without the driers and oil/air seperator
would work great. The Dremel tool has been indispensible for trimming and
polishing. It occasionally has been used to final drill a hole ( using the
flexible extension) when nothing else would work. All torque wrenches
should be certified yearly or after being dropped if you want to use them
for aircraft construction. I have an independent lab in town that my IA
sent me to to do this and the Sears wrenches have always been dead on. Hope
this helps!
John Hasbrouck
#40264 Attaching tailcone
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Required tools for toolbox kit |
I also have the Craftsman 12" band saw with the metal cutting blade, and
I've never had a problem with it. Also, I have the Craftsman floor standing
drill press, which is also good. For a grinder to put the scotch brite wheel
on, I just used the Harbor Freight model and bought it when it was on sale.
You'll never match their price at Sears, and it also works great.
Steve Weinstock
40230
In a message dated 9/6/2006 12:01:41 P.M. Central Standard Time,
Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
<Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
My rule of thumb is "Don't buy anything from Sears that requires
gasoline or electricity." Their hand tools are ok.
Seriously, I've got a Sears 12" bandsaw and with a metal cutting balde,
it is fine for most of the aluminum cutting you will be doing.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Horizontal Stabilizer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Required tools for toolbox kit
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
In a slightly more serious light, what tools would you suggest
purchasing
in the Sears Craftsman line, given that I already know my current
compressor is too light duty, too noisey, don't have any shop power
tools
like grinder, band saw, drill press etc. and just happen to have a nice
credit balance there to play with. I anticipate getting the majority of
riveting/sheet metal tools from Cleaveland, Avery & other aircraft
sources. So I'm just looking at non-aviation specific stuff to buy at
Sears.
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Required tools for toolbox kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
Thanks so much for all the ideas. I'm sure I'll be acquiring some of
those items.
EFDsteve@aol.com wrote:
> I also have the Craftsman 12" band saw with the metal cutting blade, and
> I've never had a problem with it. Also, I have the Craftsman floor
> standing drill press, which is also good. For a grinder to put the
> scotch brite wheel on, I just used the Harbor Freight model and bought
> it when it was on sale. You'll never match their price at Sears, and it
> also works great.
>
> Steve Weinstock
> 40230
>
> In a message dated 9/6/2006 12:01:41 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com writes:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
> <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
> My rule of thumb is "Don't buy anything from Sears that requires
> gasoline or electricity." Their hand tools are ok.
>
> Seriously, I've got a Sears 12" bandsaw and with a metal cutting balde,
> it is fine for most of the aluminum cutting you will be doing.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Horizontal Stabilizer
>
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Since there is no one here can we talk about alternative |
engines, primer, and painting?
AirTech, near Orlando, FL. Richard Waters owns it and is who I dealt with.
My engine came off of a R44 in France with 1400 hours on it. Engine had
been in his shop and pickled since 2003 or 2004. He reconfigured it to
IO540 C4B5/D4A5 from the helicopter config, overhauled, installed new
cylinders, Fuel injection spider, and shipped the EIS boxes in the crate
with the engine. Straight overhaul was about $27K, added the other ~$7K for
Cylinders and EIS.
Cores are fairly rare. He says he likes to deal with European suppliers
because they're fairer about the raw product he buys. Dunno, but he's been
in business around 30+ years.
Remember, the only difference between C4B5 and D4A5 is how you operate it.
Engine is in the crate at the airport wrapped up waiting for me to get the
fuse on the gear
Rob Wright
#392 Closed up Right Wing tonight.
Ordered Hartzell Prop today
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Since there is no one here can we talk about
alternative engines, primer, and painting?
Got more specifics? Who overhauled it, etc?
John J
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Since there is no one here can we talk about
alternative engines, primer, and painting?
How about $32K for a first run IO-540 with new cylinders, EIS ignition, and
overhaul?
Rob Wright
#392
Closed up Left Wing tonight...
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jdalton77
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 4:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Since there is no one here can we talk about alternative
engines, primer, and painting?
H aha ha.
Seriously, any way to not spend 40k on an engine?
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
I think I recall some papers in the bag-o-stuff that comes with the
spinner's subkit; Section 12 may be in there.
Rob Wright
#392
Finish kit inventoried but not quite there yet!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 7:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: spinner fitting
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Just got the spinner directions out to prepare the spinner for the prop. The
directions refer to a section 12 of the builders manual. Unable to find
same; it probably contains a template for cutting the blade cutouts and the
callouts for the nutplates and spinner prep. Any clues on where to look?
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|