Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:02 AM - Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? (Wayne Edgerton)
2. 06:29 AM - Trip to CA (Rob Kermanj)
3. 06:38 AM - Re: Required tools for toolbox kit (John Testement)
4. 07:06 AM - Re: Trip to CA (John Jessen)
5. 07:40 AM - engine tip (David McNeill)
6. 08:48 AM - Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? (jdalton77)
7. 08:48 AM - Re: Trip to CA (jdalton77)
8. 09:18 AM - Re: Window overspray (Scott Schmidt)
9. 09:22 AM - Re: engine tip (Tim Olson)
10. 12:33 PM - Flywheel to cowling front distance (Ted French)
11. 01:18 PM - Re: Flywheel to cowling front distance (Marcus Cooper)
12. 01:29 PM - Re: Flywheel to cowling front distance (Bobby J. Hughes)
13. 02:18 PM - How much longer? (Eric Parlow)
14. 02:26 PM - 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" (Jay Brinkmeyer)
15. 03:09 PM - Re: How much longer? (Tim Olson)
16. 03:32 PM - Re: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" (David McNeill)
17. 03:41 PM - Re: heat box (Chris , Susie Darcy)
18. 04:25 PM - Re: heat box (Mike Kraus)
19. 04:58 PM - Re: How much longer? (jerry petersen)
20. 05:11 PM - : heat box ()
21. 05:20 PM - Re: heat box (Chris , Susie Darcy)
22. 07:32 PM - Static Ports / Airspeed Error (L Aune)
23. 09:00 PM - Re: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" (Brian Douglas)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
The person I will use, Glo Custom Paint, has only painted one 10 and
that is Russ's but he's done a ton of RV's. I'm in the queue at $8,000.
Based on the planes I've seen Grady paint, which is quite a few, he
really does excellent work.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Message 2
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Hello all, I recently took a trip from Florida to CA in the 10. It
was a very enjoyable trip and a different experience from the RV6
trips I have taken.
Having the extra room in the plane and the freedom of movement in the
cockpit it afforded was the biggest asset. Going faster and further
between fuel stops was another.
I was able to set the power at 55%, 10 Gal/Hr fuel flow and get 169
Kts at 8500 Ft and 172 Kts at 10500. This shows that I can get
slightly better performance than my 6, carry more people and baggage
and only burn couple of gallons more fuel. I did not try any other
power settings. I wonder how this compare to others that are flying.
I also found the XM weather a great asset. I highly recommend it if
you are thinking about getting it. I was able to "see" behind the
cells and make weather deviations miles away.
Do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
Message 3
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| Subject: | Required tools for toolbox kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Definitely get the oiled type (motor with pulley) - much quieter. Got a 26
gal at Home Depot and love it.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Required tools for toolbox kit
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
Thank you for the recommendation. Any issues with oil lubed pump to be
concerned with? I was aware they tend to run quieter than the oiless pumps.
That would be a big plus.
> if you want a good 110v compressor?- less noisey and can do most of
> the plane - short of painting Craftsman 25Gallon
>
>
--
Message 4
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Great news! All those flying, please keep the experiences coming! Great
motivation!
John J
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 6:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Trip to CA
Hello all, I recently took a trip from Florida to CA in the 10. It was a
very enjoyable trip and a different experience from the RV6 trips I have
taken.
Having the extra room in the plane and the freedom of movement in the
cockpit it afforded was the biggest asset. Going faster and further between
fuel stops was another.
I was able to set the power at 55%, 10 Gal/Hr fuel flow and get 169 Kts at
8500 Ft and 172 Kts at 10500. This shows that I can get slightly better
performance than my 6, carry more people and baggage and only burn couple of
gallons more fuel. I did not try any other power settings. I wonder how this
compare to others that are flying.
I also found the XM weather a great asset. I highly recommend it if you are
thinking about getting it. I was able to "see" behind the cells and make
weather deviations miles away.
Do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
Message 5
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Just got an email from www.skygeek.com. They are selling a Superior oil
quick drain for $15. It is the Curtiss valve for IO540s. FAA PMA
approved and compares to the SAF-DRAIN version for $50.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
Wayne,
Is he priming for you also? $8k seems high if you've already primed and
there is no paint removal like an older plane getting a paint job. Will
you be disassembling and re-assembling the control surfaces? If yes,
then it really seems high.
I know he does good work though.
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
The person I will use, Glo Custom Paint, has only painted one 10 and
that is Russ's but he's done a ton of RV's. I'm in the queue at $8,000.
Based on the planes I've seen Grady paint, which is quite a few, he
really does excellent work.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Message 7
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Rob,
Did you have passengers with you? What did they think? How many hours
was the trip?
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Kermanj
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 9:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Trip to CA
Hello all, I recently took a trip from Florida to CA in the 10. It
was a very enjoyable trip and a different experience from the RV6 trips
I have taken.
Having the extra room in the plane and the freedom of movement in the
cockpit it afforded was the biggest asset. Going faster and further
between fuel stops was another.
I was able to set the power at 55%, 10 Gal/Hr fuel flow and get 169
Kts at 8500 Ft and 172 Kts at 10500. This shows that I can get slightly
better performance than my 6, carry more people and baggage and only
burn couple of gallons more fuel. I did not try any other power
settings. I wonder how this compare to others that are flying.
I also found the XM weather a great asset. I highly recommend it if
you are thinking about getting it. I was able to "see" behind the cells
and make weather deviations miles away.
Do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
Message 8
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| Subject: | Window overspray |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I had some overspray on my windows as well and used the "Scratch Off"
kit that Van's sells. I used the last two steps and it cleaned up very
nicely. In fact it looks like that section is more brilliant than the
rest. I tried water and Cee Bailey's makes a cleaner for these windows
but none of it worked.
Also, I had a small section where my DA sander hit the back window and
the scratch kit fixed it perfectly. So don't sweat it if you make a
little scratch while building or get some overspray. It will clean up.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of KiloPapa
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Window overspray
--> RV10-List message posted by: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
Read the reply from John Cox in this thread before you use any solvents:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=5024
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 2:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window overspray
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
>
> Hi,
>
> A product I had recommended to me by an A&P was DuPont's PrepSol ("5
> Star" brand has the similar product called Wax and Grease Remover.) It
> should be available in the local car paint shop in quarts and gallons.
I
> used it on a Cessna to clean some overspray off and it worked well
> without harming the Plexiglas. I have not used it on Van's windows so
if
> you go this way try it on a scrap first.
>
> Vern (#40324 wings)
Message 9
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I've been using the Curtis valve on mine for the last 138 hours
with lots of good luck. Great combo with that snap-on hose.
Although, $15 is a bit high.
Aircraft Spruce
05-01872 CURTIS DRAIN VALVES CCA-1700 $11.650
05-00138 CCB-39600-1 BLK QUK DRAIN HOSE $10.80
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
> Just got an email from www.skygeek.com <http://www.skygeek.com>. They
> are selling a Superior oil quick drain for $15. It is the Curtiss valve
> for IO540s. FAA PMA approved and compares to the SAF-DRAIN version for $50.
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Flywheel to cowling front distance |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ted French" <ted_french@telus.net>
RV-10 builders.
I am at the point of mounting my cowling. Problem is, I do not have my prop
and I just found out that instead of a Sept delivery, it is now going to be
into Nov before I have it.
So, I want to mount my cowling without the prop/spinner in place. I will
make a round spacer to mount on the flywheel to support the cowling top, and
will put a piece on the front of the spacer to butt the cowking againts.
Question is, what distance ahead of the flywheel is the front of the
cowling.
Engine is IO-540-D4A5 with an MTV 3 blade prop mod MTV-12-B/193-53
Could anyone flying this combo or who has the stuff in position mind taking
that measurement. I think it is 1 1/2 inches but I would like to confirm.
Do Not Archive
Ted French
RV-10 cowling, wheel pants, etc.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Flywheel to cowling front distance |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Ted,
Rather than go off of other's measurements, I would recommend bolting
your spinner bulkhead in place and use that. The spinner shouldn't go any
further aft than the back of the bulkhead flange so it will be valid and you
could tape something the same thickness as the spinner onto the bulkhead to
get the top of the cowling where you want it.
Have fun,
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted French
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 3:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flywheel to cowling front distance
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ted French" <ted_french@telus.net>
RV-10 builders.
I am at the point of mounting my cowling. Problem is, I do not have my prop
and I just found out that instead of a Sept delivery, it is now going to be
into Nov before I have it.
So, I want to mount my cowling without the prop/spinner in place. I will
make a round spacer to mount on the flywheel to support the cowling top, and
will put a piece on the front of the spacer to butt the cowking againts.
Question is, what distance ahead of the flywheel is the front of the
cowling.
Engine is IO-540-D4A5 with an MTV 3 blade prop mod MTV-12-B/193-53
Could anyone flying this combo or who has the stuff in position mind taking
that measurement. I think it is 1 1/2 inches but I would like to confirm.
Do Not Archive
Ted French
RV-10 cowling, wheel pants, etc.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Flywheel to cowling front distance |
Ted,
I have a MTV-12-B drawing on the wall. It was provided by Jim at Less
Drag. It shows 40 millimeters so 1.57480315 in. Jim can confirm.
Only a two month delay for a cowl? Come help me work on mine.
Bobby
40116
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted French
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 2:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flywheel to cowling front distance
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ted French" <ted_french@telus.net>
RV-10 builders.
I am at the point of mounting my cowling. Problem is, I do not have my
prop and I just found out that instead of a Sept delivery, it is now
going to be into Nov before I have it.
So, I want to mount my cowling without the prop/spinner in place. I will
make a round spacer to mount on the flywheel to support the cowling top,
and will put a piece on the front of the spacer to butt the cowking
againts.
Question is, what distance ahead of the flywheel is the front of the
cowling.
Engine is IO-540-D4A5 with an MTV 3 blade prop mod MTV-12-B/193-53
Could anyone flying this combo or who has the stuff in position mind
taking that measurement. I think it is 1 1/2 inches but I would like to
confirm.
Do Not Archive
Ted French
RV-10 cowling, wheel pants, etc.
Message 13
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| Subject: | How much longer? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
We're trying to get an idea if it's realistic to make S&F next year.
We're putting in 25hr/wk.
All the metal work's done (riveting), controls in, wiring's done, panel's
in.
Left to go: canopy/doors/glass, gear, fiberglass, wing/tail assembly, FWF,
Interior, Paint(5 weeks)
Any chance?
ERic--
40014
N104EP
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Several of the fuse longeron diagrams have two dimensions shown along the same
face within a single figure. That is, one diagram is used to show two different
pieces each with different dimensions. I doubt if my engineering graphics
professor would have given this scheme a passing mark.
Measure twice, think longer and cut once? Nah.
I cut the smaller pieces first without looking around the shop long enough. If
you do like me you might wind up needing a 113" longeron that is now in two
pieces (dooh!). Shipping a $15 part with dimensions over 8' from Oregon is
several hundred dollars as it has to go by freight.
Luckily I found a local source that supplies the equivalent part. If there's
anyone in the Colorado area in the same boat let me know as I now have extra
AA6-125 3/4 x 3/4.
Jay
Do Not Archive
__________________________________________________
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: How much longer? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Very tough question. I can't say that 25 hours per week will do
it or not, but I can say that if you buckle down a bit, you're
definitely looking at a good possibility. Perhaps if you stuck
in a handful of full weekends, and maybe a week or two of
vacation, it would be a shoe in. The canopy/doors take a while,
the windows go faster. The gear is quick, but fiberglass goes
slow. The wing/tail assy only takes a few hours. FWF has a lot
of steps, but some go quick....but some like baffles can take
a bit of work. Interior....well, depends. Abby's stuff goes
in quick. The paint prep is also a lot of work. I really
can't say if you'll make it on 25 hours per week...that's
only about 550 hours worth of time left if you want to get
the flyoff done, but that's very close anyway. You'll
probably find yourself extra motivated once you get the wings
on, and the gear under it, so it'll start being easier to
put in 25-40 per week. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Eric Parlow wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>
> We're trying to get an idea if it's realistic to make S&F next year.
> We're putting in 25hr/wk.
> All the metal work's done (riveting), controls in, wiring's done,
> panel's in.
>
> Left to go: canopy/doors/glass, gear, fiberglass, wing/tail assembly,
> FWF, Interior, Paint(5 weeks)
>
> Any chance?
>
> ERic--
> 40014
> N104EP
>
> do not archive
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Any raw materials can usually be purchased locally, especially if near a big
city. Industrial Metals (aka Capital Metals) in Tempe AZ (Phoenix area) can
supply aluminum in a variety of sizes and grades i.e. 2024,6061,7075. Also
McMaster Carr will ship raw materials as needed.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>
> Several of the fuse longeron diagrams have two dimensions shown along the
> same
> face within a single figure. That is, one diagram is used to show two
> different
> pieces each with different dimensions. I doubt if my engineering graphics
> professor would have given this scheme a passing mark.
>
> Measure twice, think longer and cut once? Nah.
>
> I cut the smaller pieces first without looking around the shop long
> enough. If
> you do like me you might wind up needing a 113" longeron that is now in
> two
> pieces (dooh!). Shipping a $15 part with dimensions over 8' from Oregon is
> several hundred dollars as it has to go by freight.
>
> Luckily I found a local source that supplies the equivalent part. If
> there's
> anyone in the Colorado area in the same boat let me know as I now have
> extra
> AA6-125 3/4 x 3/4.
>
> Jay
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 17
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Guys I might have missed it but what is the advantage of a SS heat box
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> Yep...that is Don London and he is an outstanding guy. He builds for Vans
> and spruce and Adam and Cirrus among others. I just spoke with him a bit
> about this and he is doing a SS heat box as well as the directional vents
> for the cabin heat. (you can select heat for one side or the other at
> will)
> I don't think he is shipping them yet but he is supposed to be bringing me
> some to look at next weekend at the Reno air races. I will let you fellows
> know how they look if you are interested.
> Evan
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Grimstad" <bldgrv10450@comcast.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 3:25 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Paul Grimstad"
>> <bldgrv10450@comcast.net>
>>
>> Hugo
>> Try these guys. I spoke with them and they seem willing to try new ideas
> and
>> work custom. They may be the guys that build Van's pipe fittings.
>> http://www.aviacompworldwide.com/connectors.html
>> Paul Grimstad
>> RV10 40450 fuselage
>> Portland, OR
>> do not archive
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:31 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: heat box
>>
>>
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>> >
>> > Hi all, does some body replace the aluminum heat box provide with the
> kit
>> > with an Stain. steel one,if so please can you share manuf. and model
>> > and
>> > how you like it.
>> > Thanks, Hugo #40456
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
A SS heat box won't melt if you have an extreme thermal condition in the
engine compartment. That is why your firewall is also made of
stainless. So the question is, why have a SS firewall and drill a 3"
hole in it for heat and cover it with an aluminum heat box.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
Darcy
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy"
--> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Guys I might have missed it but what is the advantage of a SS heat box
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> Yep...that is Don London and he is an outstanding guy. He builds for
> Vans and spruce and Adam and Cirrus among others. I just spoke with
> him a bit about this and he is doing a SS heat box as well as the
> directional vents for the cabin heat. (you can select heat for one
> side or the other at
> will)
> I don't think he is shipping them yet but he is supposed to be
bringing me
> some to look at next weekend at the Reno air races. I will let you
fellows
> know how they look if you are interested.
> Evan
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Grimstad" <bldgrv10450@comcast.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 3:25 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Paul Grimstad"
>> <bldgrv10450@comcast.net>
>>
>> Hugo
>> Try these guys. I spoke with them and they seem willing to try new
>> ideas
> and
>> work custom. They may be the guys that build Van's pipe fittings.
>> http://www.aviacompworldwide.com/connectors.html
>> Paul Grimstad
>> RV10 40450 fuselage
>> Portland, OR
>> do not archive
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:31 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: heat box
>>
>>
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>> >
>> > Hi all, does some body replace the aluminum heat box provide with
>> > the
> kit
>> > with an Stain. steel one,if so please can you share manuf. and
>> > model
>> > and
>> > how you like it.
>> > Thanks, Hugo #40456
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: How much longer? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: jerry petersen <bldanrv9a@yahoo.com>
There are way to many variables to really say for
certain. We had hoped to fly ours to Osh. but decided
early in the summer that we were putting unnecesary
pressure on ourselves. We have enjoyed the build more
since changing that goal. We will also do many little
things we wouldn't have done and will have a better
finished product. It's supposed to be fun educational
and safe.
--- Eric Parlow <ericparlow@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow"
> <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>
> We're trying to get an idea if it's realistic to
> make S&F next year.
> We're putting in 25hr/wk.
> All the metal work's done (riveting), controls in,
> wiring's done, panel's
> in.
>
> Left to go: canopy/doors/glass, gear, fiberglass,
> wing/tail assembly, FWF,
> Interior, Paint(5 weeks)
>
> Any chance?
>
> ERic--
> 40014
> N104EP
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 20
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
I had a 15 minutes phone conversation with Don,at the moment he have not a direct
replacement for a 10,but he was in he's way to Van's and promese to take a
close look at the original aluminum heat box,I will call him tomorrow .may be
if is an enough interest he can modified some of the model actually in production
.
hugo
do not archive
>
> From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
> Date: 2006/09/08 Fri PM 06:41:19 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Guys I might have missed it but what is the advantage of a SS heat box
>
> regards Chris
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 11:07 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> > <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >
> > Yep...that is Don London and he is an outstanding guy. He builds for Vans
> > and spruce and Adam and Cirrus among others. I just spoke with him a bit
> > about this and he is doing a SS heat box as well as the directional vents
> > for the cabin heat. (you can select heat for one side or the other at
> > will)
> > I don't think he is shipping them yet but he is supposed to be bringing me
> > some to look at next weekend at the Reno air races. I will let you fellows
> > know how they look if you are interested.
> > Evan
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Grimstad" <bldgrv10450@comcast.net>
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 3:25 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
> >
> >
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Paul Grimstad"
> >> <bldgrv10450@comcast.net>
> >>
> >> Hugo
> >> Try these guys. I spoke with them and they seem willing to try new ideas
> > and
> >> work custom. They may be the guys that build Van's pipe fittings.
> >> http://www.aviacompworldwide.com/connectors.html
> >> Paul Grimstad
> >> RV10 40450 fuselage
> >> Portland, OR
> >> do not archive
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> >> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:31 AM
> >> Subject: RV10-List: heat box
> >>
> >>
> >> > --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> >> >
> >> > Hi all, does some body replace the aluminum heat box provide with the
> > kit
> >> > with an Stain. steel one,if so please can you share manuf. and model
> >> > and
> >> > how you like it.
> >> > Thanks, Hugo #40456
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Fantastic and great info Thanks. I would think that if you had that much
heat you would have been in deep shit before it melted! Anyway good upgrade.
Chris
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 9:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: heat box
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> A SS heat box won't melt if you have an extreme thermal condition in the
> engine compartment. That is why your firewall is also made of
> stainless. So the question is, why have a SS firewall and drill a 3"
> hole in it for heat and cover it with an aluminum heat box.....
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
> Darcy
> Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 6:41 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy"
> --> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Guys I might have missed it but what is the advantage of a SS heat box
>
> regards Chris
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 11:07 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
>> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>>
>> Yep...that is Don London and he is an outstanding guy. He builds for
>> Vans and spruce and Adam and Cirrus among others. I just spoke with
>> him a bit about this and he is doing a SS heat box as well as the
>> directional vents for the cabin heat. (you can select heat for one
>> side or the other at
>> will)
>> I don't think he is shipping them yet but he is supposed to be
> bringing me
>> some to look at next weekend at the Reno air races. I will let you
> fellows
>> know how they look if you are interested.
>> Evan
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Paul Grimstad" <bldgrv10450@comcast.net>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 3:25 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: heat box
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Paul Grimstad"
>>> <bldgrv10450@comcast.net>
>>>
>>> Hugo
>>> Try these guys. I spoke with them and they seem willing to try new
>>> ideas
>> and
>>> work custom. They may be the guys that build Van's pipe fittings.
>>> http://www.aviacompworldwide.com/connectors.html
>>> Paul Grimstad
>>> RV10 40450 fuselage
>>> Portland, OR
>>> do not archive
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:31 AM
>>> Subject: RV10-List: heat box
>>>
>>>
>>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>> >
>>> > Hi all, does some body replace the aluminum heat box provide with
>>> > the
>> kit
>>> > with an Stain. steel one,if so please can you share manuf. and
>>> > model
>>> > and
>>> > how you like it.
>>> > Thanks, Hugo #40456
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Static Ports / Airspeed Error |
--> RV10-List message posted by: L Aune <lcaune@cablelan.net>
I purchased two static ports from Aircraft Spruce and found them to
be very thick. At least .080" . This seemed to be way too much so I
had them machined down to .035. which looks to be more like
Beeechcraft or others I have seen. Not flying yet so no detailed
specifications on the install yet. I may put a small bead of Proseal
around them.
Len
Fitting doors
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Brian Douglas <bsponcil@belinblank.org>
Yeah, I'm in a similar boat with a tailcone J-Channel. Like a doofus (sp?) I
cut one of the 93"ers too short and had to order a new one from Vans.
Naturally it shows up the Friday before a long labor day weekend bent at
about 35 degrees. I called vans the following week and they sent another
one which arrived today so badly bent the driver didn't even bother to wait
until I opened it. Looking at the tube he just said, "Oh man, I'd better
send this back."
Turns out that even PVC pipe is not enough to protect parts from the
shipping people, who apparently spend a good deal of time smashing things
with hammers.
Now I'm headed off to Reno (Dago Red is running this year!) and am wondering
what the chances are that I'll find a decent 8' length of J-channel waiting
on my porch when I get back.
Anyway, let that be a lesson to the guys/girls just starting. Cut the long
pieces first!!
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
On 9/8/06 4:25 PM, "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>
> Several of the fuse longeron diagrams have two dimensions shown along the same
> face within a single figure. That is, one diagram is used to show two
> different
> pieces each with different dimensions. I doubt if my engineering graphics
> professor would have given this scheme a passing mark.
>
> Measure twice, think longer and cut once? Nah.
>
> I cut the smaller pieces first without looking around the shop long enough. If
> you do like me you might wind up needing a 113" longeron that is now in two
> pieces (dooh!). Shipping a $15 part with dimensions over 8' from Oregon is
> several hundred dollars as it has to go by freight.
>
> Luckily I found a local source that supplies the equivalent part. If there's
> anyone in the Colorado area in the same boat let me know as I now have extra
> AA6-125 3/4 x 3/4.
>
> Jay
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
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