Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:14 AM - Re: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" (RAS)
2. 04:22 AM - Seat adjustment lever (Jim & Julie Wade)
3. 04:31 AM - Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? (Wayne Edgerton)
4. 04:42 AM - Re: Flywheel to cowling front distance (Wayne Edgerton)
5. 05:33 AM - Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? (Carl Froehlich)
6. 06:52 AM - Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? (John W. Cox)
7. 06:56 AM - Re: Flywheel to cowling front distance (John W. Cox)
8. 07:42 AM - Heat selector valve (Chris Hukill)
9. 12:52 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (Marcus Cooper)
10. 02:00 PM - Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? (Russell Daves)
11. 02:55 PM - Re: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" (Ben Westfall)
12. 03:18 PM - Re: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" (Rob Hunter)
13. 03:19 PM - Re: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" (Rob Hunter)
14. 05:46 PM - Re: Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? ()
15. 07:25 PM - Re: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" (Ben Westfall)
16. 09:13 PM - Hartzell Composite Prop (Eric Panning)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
I wonder why Van's put that particular warning in the
paperwork................
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 10:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>
> Several of the fuse longeron diagrams have two dimensions shown along the
> same
> face within a single figure. That is, one diagram is used to show two
> different
> pieces each with different dimensions. I doubt if my engineering graphics
> professor would have given this scheme a passing mark.
>
> Measure twice, think longer and cut once? Nah.
>
> I cut the smaller pieces first without looking around the shop long
> enough. If
> you do like me you might wind up needing a 113" longeron that is now in
> two
> pieces (dooh!). Shipping a $15 part with dimensions over 8' from Oregon is
> several hundred dollars as it has to go by freight.
>
> Luckily I found a local source that supplies the equivalent part. If
> there's
> anyone in the Colorado area in the same boat let me know as I now have
> extra
> AA6-125 3/4 x 3/4.
>
> Jay
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Seat adjustment lever |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr@hughes.net>
This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to busy trying
to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good design. So much
better that having to reach beside the seat and pull the lever. Here is his
website, check it out for yourself.
http://www.nwacaptain.com/
Blue Skies
Jim
40383
DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
I deliver the plane to him with no primer and walk away. He does all the
disassembling and reassembling. I check around a little bit and I think
he has a fair price for the quality of work that he does. I know of one
10 builder who paid $14,000 for his paint job, ouch. I think he's
charging around $6,000 for the RV6's and 8's.
I just want someone to paint my plane that I know does excellent work
and that's Grady.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Flywheel to cowling front distance |
Hello Ted,
I will have the Aero Composite three blade but I'm guessing that would
be about the same as the MT for mounting purposes? We used a 1/8"
spacer. I also don't have my propeller yet but Aero Composite sent me a
mount plate to use so I can fit the cowling. Maybe MT can furnish you
one also?
I was just working on it yesterday and the top cowling went on fairly
quickly, I had help.
I've attached a few photo's for you to see what we've done thus far. I'm
installing cam locks and will have them spaced at around 3".
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Message 5
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Subject: | Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
I painted my RV-8A - paint alone cost $2500 (I did some hard colors). $6000
for someone to do everything sounds like a really good deal.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (270 hrs)
RV-10 (tail cone)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:31 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
I deliver the plane to him with no primer and walk away. He does all the
disassembling and reassembling. I check around a little bit and I think he
has a fair price for the quality of work that he does. I know of one 10
builder who paid $14,000 for his paint job, ouch. I think he's charging
around $6,000 for the RV6's and 8's.
I just want someone to paint my plane that I know does excellent work and
that's Grady.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Message 6
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Subject: | Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
RV builders tend to bring a different conservative bent to pricing of
final topcoats. Tom Conner in Bend charges the Lancair guys upwards of
$26,000 all the way above $34,000 to meet the definition of excellent
work. He is more than 24 months backlogged. True, all composite skins
require lots of correction and fill. Thank goodness for 2024 and flush
rivets. The EPA rules and charges have pushed the chemicals into a
pricing schedule which exceeds VNE. If anyone has missed Scott
Schmidt's latest web post "Going to the Hangar", you will see the new
benchmark on RV-10 Topcoats. My guess is that Ray and Scott chose to
delay the unveiling until they can sweep Grand Champion next year at
OSH.
Our local guy is retiring cause he has gotten tired of the tremendous
amount of prep required to take it from "drop off" to "excellent". He
won't use immigrant labor to complete the mundane tasks. On a separate
note, Tim Olson posted the most cost effective way to get to a great
paintjob at the lowest cost by doing the right steps. We have lots of
choices. And then there is Checkoway who will never finish from the
primer/bare Alclad stage.
Paint Envy anyone?
John Cox
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
I deliver the plane to him with no primer and walk away. He does all the
disassembling and reassembling. I check around a little bit and I think
he has a fair price for the quality of work that he does. I know of one
10 builder who paid $14,000 for his paint job, ouch. I think he's
charging around $6,000 for the RV6's and 8's.
I just want someone to paint my plane that I know does excellent work
and that's Grady.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Message 7
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Subject: | Flywheel to cowling front distance |
Has anyone else heard the progress by Hartzell on their Composite
Scimitar 3 blade? It was announced at OSH and I read a big article on
it in print over in Germany last week. I am guessing they wanted to
tweak Gert's nose on the development. I would bet Jim Ayers will have
his hands full on refunds if it outperforms the MT. Light, Made in
America, high performance and sexy too.
Looking for more data and delivery schedule.
John Cox
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flywheel to cowling front distance
Hello Ted,
I will have the Aero Composite three blade but I'm guessing that would
be about the same as the MT for mounting purposes? We used a 1/8"
spacer. I also don't have my propeller yet but Aero Composite sent me a
mount plate to use so I can fit the cowling. Maybe MT can furnish you
one also?
I was just working on it yesterday and the top cowling went on fairly
quickly, I had help.
I've attached a few photo's for you to see what we've done thus far. I'm
installing cam locks and will have them spaced at around 3".
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Message 8
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|
Subject: | Heat selector valve |
I concur completely that Don at Aviacomp is the man to see about
anything for your heating system. At my request, he redesigned the T
that goes in the forward tunnel to direct the heat to the forward
footwell areas, to include a selector valve. It is a drop in replacement
for the original, and with the use of a cable, I can now mix the forward
heat to either side, a must have requirement for my cold blooded other
half, flying partner. It was a true pleasure working with Don on this
very simple, yet useful mod, that Vans should offer in their accessory
catalog. If you need to see a picture, email me cjhukill@cox.net
Chris Hukill
fitting the plastic wheelpants, really out of sequence
(cannot believe people actually build whole airplanes out of that stuff!)
Message 9
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Subject: | Seat adjustment lever |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Jim, thanks for posting this, it looks great! I've been trying to dream up
such a thing as there just isn't enough room to comfortably work the current
T-handle. Putting the handle toward the center of the airplane would help,
but there physically isn't enough room in my machine on the right side for
some reason.
Marcus
40286
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Julie
Wade
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr@hughes.net>
This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to busy
trying to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good design. So
much better that having to reach beside the seat and pull the lever. Here is
his website, check it out for yourself.
http://www.nwacaptain.com/
Blue Skies
Jim
40383
DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549
Message 10
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|
Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
That is the reason why Grady O'Neal at GLO Custom Paint is booked up
through July of 2007. I know because an RV-8 I am helping finished up
just booked his paint date and the earliest he could get with Grady was
July 2007!!!!
If you want the best at a reasonable price you really have to plan
ahead. I booked my paint date (currently in Grady's paint booth)
January of 2006. Grady requires a 10% deposit to hold a paint date.
Pictures should be posted by next week.
Russ Daves
N710RV (RV-10 Flying)
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Froehlich
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
I painted my RV-8A - paint alone cost $2500 (I did some hard colors).
$6000 for someone to do everything sounds like a really good deal.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (270 hrs)
RV-10 (tail cone)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:31 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
I deliver the plane to him with no primer and walk away. He does all
the disassembling and reassembling. I check around a little bit and I
think he has a fair price for the quality of work that he does. I know
of one 10 builder who paid $14,000 for his paint job, ouch. I think he's
charging around $6,000 for the RV6's and 8's.
I just want someone to paint my plane that I know does excellent
work and that's Grady.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 11
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|
Subject: | 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
I did something similar as well with the tailcone J-Channel but x 6. I
trimmed all 12 to length properly with no problems but didn't look that
carefully at the plans to "Trim the ends at a 45 deg angle as shown in
figure 2". After I finished cutting the angle on the last of 12 I looked at
the one in my hand and said... "Huh? That doesn't look right!"
Sure enough I cut the 45 not from the vertical edge but the horizontal so
all of them came to a point at the corner. When I squared off the now
messed up edges the 6 long ones were now too short.
The messed up 93"ers became the 6 shorter ones. All the others became wall
art. I robbed the wing kit, which I just picked up the day before, of the 6
8' J-Channel in it. Key word is "PICKED UP". Van's is a 20 minute drive
from my place. Still soaked me for $13.75 x 6 = $82.50 but no down time or
expensive freight snafu's.
So the lesson learned is of course read the plans more carefully before
cutting anything (or move closer to Van's).
-Ben
#40579
Tailcone
(Darn there are a lot of rivets! Should be done this weekend)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
--> RV10-List message posted by: Brian Douglas <bsponcil@belinblank.org>
Yeah, I'm in a similar boat with a tailcone J-Channel. Like a doofus (sp?) I
cut one of the 93"ers too short and had to order a new one from Vans.
Naturally it shows up the Friday before a long labor day weekend bent at
about 35 degrees. I called vans the following week and they sent another
one which arrived today so badly bent the driver didn't even bother to wait
until I opened it. Looking at the tube he just said, "Oh man, I'd better
send this back."
Turns out that even PVC pipe is not enough to protect parts from the
shipping people, who apparently spend a good deal of time smashing things
with hammers.
Now I'm headed off to Reno (Dago Red is running this year!) and am wondering
what the chances are that I'll find a decent 8' length of J-channel waiting
on my porch when I get back.
Anyway, let that be a lesson to the guys/girls just starting. Cut the long
pieces first!!
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
Message 12
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|
Subject: | 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter@integra.net>
What page of the plans is the cutting of these pieces on so I can b
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
I did something similar as well with the tailcone J-Channel but x 6. I
trimmed all 12 to length properly with no problems but didn't look that
carefully at the plans to "Trim the ends at a 45 deg angle as shown in
figure 2". After I finished cutting the angle on the last of 12 I
looked at the one in my hand and said... "Huh? That doesn't look
right!"
Sure enough I cut the 45 not from the vertical edge but the horizontal
so all of them came to a point at the corner. When I squared off the
now messed up edges the 6 long ones were now too short.
The messed up 93"ers became the 6 shorter ones. All the others became
wall art. I robbed the wing kit, which I just picked up the day before,
of the 6 8' J-Channel in it. Key word is "PICKED UP". Van's is a 20
minute drive from my place. Still soaked me for $13.75 x 6 = $82.50 but
no down time or expensive freight snafu's.
So the lesson learned is of course read the plans more carefully before
cutting anything (or move closer to Van's).
-Ben
#40579
Tailcone
(Darn there are a lot of rivets! Should be done this weekend)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
--> RV10-List message posted by: Brian Douglas <bsponcil@belinblank.org>
Yeah, I'm in a similar boat with a tailcone J-Channel. Like a doofus
(sp?) I cut one of the 93"ers too short and had to order a new one from
Vans. Naturally it shows up the Friday before a long labor day weekend
bent at about 35 degrees. I called vans the following week and they
sent another one which arrived today so badly bent the driver didn't
even bother to wait until I opened it. Looking at the tube he just
said, "Oh man, I'd better send this back."
Turns out that even PVC pipe is not enough to protect parts from the
shipping people, who apparently spend a good deal of time smashing
things with hammers.
Now I'm headed off to Reno (Dago Red is running this year!) and am
wondering what the chances are that I'll find a decent 8' length of
J-channel waiting on my porch when I get back.
Anyway, let that be a lesson to the guys/girls just starting. Cut the
long pieces first!!
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
Message 13
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|
Subject: | 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter@integra.net>
What page of the plans are the cutting of the J-Channels on so I don't
make the same mistake.
Rob Hunter
Elevator 40432
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
I did something similar as well with the tailcone J-Channel but x 6. I
trimmed all 12 to length properly with no problems but didn't look that
carefully at the plans to "Trim the ends at a 45 deg angle as shown in
figure 2". After I finished cutting the angle on the last of 12 I
looked at the one in my hand and said... "Huh? That doesn't look
right!"
Sure enough I cut the 45 not from the vertical edge but the horizontal
so all of them came to a point at the corner. When I squared off the
now messed up edges the 6 long ones were now too short.
The messed up 93"ers became the 6 shorter ones. All the others became
wall art. I robbed the wing kit, which I just picked up the day before,
of the 6 8' J-Channel in it. Key word is "PICKED UP". Van's is a 20
minute drive from my place. Still soaked me for $13.75 x 6 = $82.50 but
no down time or expensive freight snafu's.
So the lesson learned is of course read the plans more carefully before
cutting anything (or move closer to Van's).
-Ben
#40579
Tailcone
(Darn there are a lot of rivets! Should be done this weekend)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
--> RV10-List message posted by: Brian Douglas <bsponcil@belinblank.org>
Yeah, I'm in a similar boat with a tailcone J-Channel. Like a doofus
(sp?) I cut one of the 93"ers too short and had to order a new one from
Vans. Naturally it shows up the Friday before a long labor day weekend
bent at about 35 degrees. I called vans the following week and they
sent another one which arrived today so badly bent the driver didn't
even bother to wait until I opened it. Looking at the tube he just
said, "Oh man, I'd better send this back."
Turns out that even PVC pipe is not enough to protect parts from the
shipping people, who apparently spend a good deal of time smashing
things with hammers.
Now I'm headed off to Reno (Dago Red is running this year!) and am
wondering what the chances are that I'll find a decent 8' length of
J-channel waiting on my porch when I get back.
Anyway, let that be a lesson to the guys/girls just starting. Cut the
long pieces first!!
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
Message 14
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|
Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gorejr@bellsouth.net>
Where is Grady located? Jim
>
> From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
> Date: 2006/09/09 Sat PM 05:00:03 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
>
> That is the reason why Grady O'Neal at GLO Custom Paint is booked up through
July of 2007. I know because an RV-8 I am helping finished up just booked his
paint date and the earliest he could get with Grady was July 2007!!!!
>
> If you want the best at a reasonable price you really have to plan ahead. I
booked my paint date (currently in Grady's paint booth) January of 2006. Grady
requires a 10% deposit to hold a paint date.
>
> Pictures should be posted by next week.
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV (RV-10 Flying)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Carl Froehlich
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:32 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
>
>
> I painted my RV-8A - paint alone cost $2500 (I did some hard colors). $6000
for someone to do everything sounds like a really good deal.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (270 hrs)
> RV-10 (tail cone)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:31 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
>
>
> I deliver the plane to him with no primer and walk away. He does all the
disassembling and reassembling. I check around a little bit and I think he has
a fair price for the quality of work that he does. I know of one 10 builder who
paid $14,000 for his paint job, ouch. I think he's charging around $6,000 for
the RV6's and 8's.
>
> I just want someone to paint my plane that I know does excellent work and
that's Grady.
>
> Wayne Edgerton #40336
>
>
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
Section 10 Page 5
http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/RV10_Plans_sec10-pg05.html
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Hunter
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter@integra.net>
What page of the plans are the cutting of the J-Channels on so I don't
make the same mistake.
Rob Hunter
Elevator 40432
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
I did something similar as well with the tailcone J-Channel but x 6. I
trimmed all 12 to length properly with no problems but didn't look that
carefully at the plans to "Trim the ends at a 45 deg angle as shown in
figure 2". After I finished cutting the angle on the last of 12 I
looked at the one in my hand and said... "Huh? That doesn't look
right!"
Sure enough I cut the 45 not from the vertical edge but the horizontal
so all of them came to a point at the corner. When I squared off the
now messed up edges the 6 long ones were now too short.
The messed up 93"ers became the 6 shorter ones. All the others became
wall art. I robbed the wing kit, which I just picked up the day before,
of the 6 8' J-Channel in it. Key word is "PICKED UP". Van's is a 20
minute drive from my place. Still soaked me for $13.75 x 6 = $82.50 but
no down time or expensive freight snafu's.
So the lesson learned is of course read the plans more carefully before
cutting anything (or move closer to Van's).
-Ben
#40579
Tailcone
(Darn there are a lot of rivets! Should be done this weekend)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
--> RV10-List message posted by: Brian Douglas <bsponcil@belinblank.org>
Yeah, I'm in a similar boat with a tailcone J-Channel. Like a doofus
(sp?) I cut one of the 93"ers too short and had to order a new one from
Vans. Naturally it shows up the Friday before a long labor day weekend
bent at about 35 degrees. I called vans the following week and they
sent another one which arrived today so badly bent the driver didn't
even bother to wait until I opened it. Looking at the tube he just
said, "Oh man, I'd better send this back."
Turns out that even PVC pipe is not enough to protect parts from the
shipping people, who apparently spend a good deal of time smashing
things with hammers.
Now I'm headed off to Reno (Dago Red is running this year!) and am
wondering what the chances are that I'll find a decent 8' length of
J-channel waiting on my porch when I get back.
Anyway, let that be a lesson to the guys/girls just starting. Cut the
long pieces first!!
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
Message 16
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Subject: | Hartzell Composite Prop |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
John,
Details below, more on the Hartzell press page:
http://www.hartzellprop.com/pressroom/index_press.htm
Looks great! -Eric
PIQUA, Ohio - July 24, 2006 - Hartzell Propeller Inc.
announced today that it has received FAA certification
for its new ASC-II second generation Advanced
Structural Composite propeller system. Hartzell's
ASC-II is the first FAA certified advanced structural
composite propeller developed specifically for the
general aviation market.
Hartzell's ASC-II is the result of the company's
nearly 30 year experience in the design and
manufacture of advanced structural composite
propellers. The Hartzell ASC-II is an optimized design
mated to a proprietary, Hartzell-developed
manufacturing process. The result is an advanced
structural composite propeller that delivers all of
the advantages provided by Hartzell's first generation
of composite propellers - low weight, low inertia, and
low life cycle costs - while minimizing the major
disadvantage: the high cost manufacturing process.
--- "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
> Has anyone else heard the progress by Hartzell on
> their Composite
> Scimitar 3 blade? It was announced at OSH and I
> read a big article on
> it in print over in Germany last week. I am
> guessing they wanted to
> tweak Gert's nose on the development. I would bet
> Jim Ayers will have
> his hands full on refunds if it outperforms the MT.
> Light, Made in
> America, high performance and sexy too.
>
>
>
> Looking for more data and delivery schedule.
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
> Do not Archive
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Wayne
> Edgerton
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:41 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flywheel to cowling front
> distance
>
>
>
> Hello Ted,
>
>
>
> I will have the Aero Composite three blade but I'm
> guessing that would
> be about the same as the MT for mounting purposes?
> We used a 1/8"
> spacer. I also don't have my propeller yet but Aero
> Composite sent me a
> mount plate to use so I can fit the cowling. Maybe
> MT can furnish you
> one also?
>
>
>
> I was just working on it yesterday and the top
> cowling went on fairly
> quickly, I had help.
>
>
>
> I've attached a few photo's for you to see what
> we've done thus far. I'm
> installing cam locks and will have them spaced at
> around 3".
>
>
>
> Wayne Edgerton #40336
>
>
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