Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:38 AM - Re: Cylinder head temps (John Jessen)
2. 09:23 AM - test (John Hasbrouck)
3. 11:01 AM - Re: test (Larry Rosen)
4. 02:04 PM - Re: Cylinder head temps (John W. Cox)
5. 02:09 PM - Baggage door cut out (John Hasbrouck)
6. 02:19 PM - Re: Re: Safety Alert WD-415 weldment (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
7. 02:24 PM - Re: Baggage door cut out ()
8. 02:25 PM - Cutting an oval hole (johngoodman)
9. 02:26 PM - Re: Baggage door cut out (Rick)
10. 02:30 PM - Re: Baggage door cut out (Tim Olson)
11. 02:41 PM - Re: Re: Baggage door cut out ()
12. 02:42 PM - Re: Cutting an oval hole (Rick)
13. 02:43 PM - Re: Baggage door cut out (Rick)
14. 02:52 PM - Re: Baggage door cut out (Marcus Cooper)
15. 02:57 PM - Re: Cutting an oval hole (John Jessen)
16. 03:31 PM - Re: Cutting an oval hole (Vern W. Smith)
17. 03:41 PM - Re: Cylinder head temps (John Gonzalez)
18. 04:36 PM - Re: Baggage door cut out (John Hasbrouck)
19. 04:48 PM - Re: Cutting an oval hole (linn Walters)
20. 05:21 PM - Re: Cutting an oval hole (John Jessen)
21. 07:26 PM - Re: Cutting an oval hole (John Ackerman)
22. 08:34 PM - Questions from a beginner (Les Kearney)
23. 08:54 PM - Re: Questions from a beginner ()
24. 08:55 PM - Re: Questions from a beginner (Tim Olson)
25. 09:09 PM - Re: Questions from a beginner (Jim Beyer)
26. 10:08 PM - Carbon Fiber tape (ddddsp1@juno.com)
27. 10:24 PM - Re: Carbon Fiber tape (David McNeill)
28. 11:49 PM - Re: Carbon Fiber tape (John W. Cox)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Cylinder head temps |
John, am trying to hold onto your whirling dervish thought stream, but I
think I let go on your last sentence below. Is there some internal airflow
design you are working on that will enable a stock engine to outperform one
pumped up to 300+ ponies? Is that what you're saying? In general, I agree
that the airflow is an issue that needs attention, ala the LoPresti boys, et
al. Does anyone know of any literature on what's been done to date?
Certainly this goes way back (think the lower scoop on the Mustang) and
continues to be an issue for the -10 crowd. Anyway, what did you last
sentence mean, especially in reference to a "Plans Built RV-10."
John J
Tailcone (just tuned up the old drill press and am now even more dangerous
in the shop)
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
Yes but only theoretically. George thinks such things are bunk. Speed
brakes come into play. Most engines need temperature to expand clearances
for proper oil distribution, fuel additive needs it to scarf lead deposits
from spark plugs on Low Idle. Too much, too little, just right. sound like
a Fairy Tale. Extremes and violent swings are to be avoided except in an
Emergency situations.
Tufting the airfoil to locate and correct back-burbles, stagnant zones and
improve (reduce) drag are a commendable pursuit. I am prepared to finance
Randy's fuel bill if he and Rob Hickman have a camera ship standing by to
document a pure "Plans Built RV-10" Test Flight. And it doesn't qualify as
Hot Rodding, yet saves fuel and produces similar speed results to squeezing
300+ ponies into the RV-10.
#600
Do not Archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
John or other engine guys,
Can you really overcool an engine? I understand about shock cooling the
insides but keeping your whole engine in a nice cool temperature environment
sounds like a worthwhile goose chase. I'd keep mine at room temperature if
I could help it for tolerances, TBO, etc.
Rob Wright
#392
Dreaming about hooking a big vacuum to the lower cowl........
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Testing to see if this e-mail shows up on the list. I resubscribed but did
not receive a confirmation e-mail.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Congratulations your are connected!
do not archive
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> Testing to see if this e-mail shows up on the list. I resubscribed
> but did not receive a confirmation e-mail.
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Cylinder head temps |
Power increases and hot rodding are a means to an end. Drag Reduction
gets to the same result by different means. Speed mods, aerodynamic
improvements, weight reduction all get you to nirvana. Work on both
sides of the equation. Keep VAN and his insurance underwriters happy.
Lust controlled can be a good thing occasionally.
Last sentence, has anyone tufted a plans built RV-10 to determine the
areas of flow disturbances? Drag reduction increases fuel economy.
Pushing a brick takes fuel. I think there are coins on the table at the
aft portion of the lower cowl and above and in front of the leading edge
of the wing attachments.
JC #600 "the Turbanator"
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 7:37 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
John, am trying to hold onto your whirling dervish thought stream, but I
think I let go on your last sentence below. Is there some internal
airflow design you are working on that will enable a stock engine to
outperform one pumped up to 300+ ponies? Is that what you're saying?
In general, I agree that the airflow is an issue that needs attention,
ala the LoPresti boys, et al. Does anyone know of any literature on
what's been done to date? Certainly this goes way back (think the lower
scoop on the Mustang) and continues to be an issue for the -10 crowd.
Anyway, what did you last sentence mean, especially in reference to a
"Plans Built RV-10."
John J
Tailcone (just tuned up the old drill press and am now even more
dangerous in the shop)
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
Yes but only theoretically. George thinks such things are bunk. Speed
brakes come into play. Most engines need temperature to expand
clearances for proper oil distribution, fuel additive needs it to scarf
lead deposits from spark plugs on Low Idle. Too much, too little, just
right... sound like a Fairy Tale. Extremes and violent swings are to be
avoided except in an Emergency situations.
Tufting the airfoil to locate and correct back-burbles, stagnant zones
and improve (reduce) drag are a commendable pursuit. I am prepared to
finance Randy's fuel bill if he and Rob Hickman have a camera ship
standing by to document a pure "Plans Built RV-10" Test Flight. And it
doesn't qualify as Hot Rodding, yet saves fuel and produces similar
speed results to squeezing 300+ ponies into the RV-10.
#600
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
John or other engine guys,
Can you really overcool an engine? I understand about shock cooling the
insides but keeping your whole engine in a nice cool temperature
environment sounds like a worthwhile goose chase. I'd keep mine at room
temperature if I could help it for tolerances, TBO, etc.
Rob Wright
#392
Dreaming about hooking a big vacuum to the lower
cowl........................
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 5
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| Subject: | Baggage door cut out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Great to have com restored! Been on last assigned heading and alt. for a
while! The question that I want to ask concerns the baggage door cut out.
Is there a use for it in the future plans or can I cut it up for doublers?
Can't find anything in my plans so far.
John Hasbrouck
#40264 fuselage
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Safety Alert WD-415 weldment |
In a message dated 9/17/2006 10:17:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
armywrights@adelphia.net writes:
when Vic completed his plane the parts available were only welded on the one
side of the nut. Since then the nuts come welded on both sides. Good
judgment always prevails, but with the new welded type there may be no structural
reason to use the extruded aftermarket brackets.
The all aluminum (after kit market) parts are MUCH thicker, more threads
to grip, no weld to break (or adjacent weak metal) and have a much more solid
base that will accept a countersink and allow the cover plate to be dimpled
and flush riveted. This is a no brainer to buy the part for a few bucks and get
peace of mind and a better part.
Steve
Stephen G. Blank,DDS
RV-10 #40499 Finishing the Elevators
Cessna 170b Flyer
Port St Lucie, FL
772-475-5556 cell
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door cut out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
Sir John,
That is THE baggage door. Do not cut!
Jim Combs
N312F
Do Not Archive
===========================================================
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door cut out
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Great to have com restored! Been on last assigned heading and alt. for a
while! The question that I want to ask concerns the baggage door cut out.
Is there a use for it in the future plans or can I cut it up for doublers?
Can't find anything in my plans so far.
John Hasbrouck
#40264 fuselage
===========================================================
Message 8
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| Subject: | Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show cutting an oval
hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the plans show the hole
to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do it and each one gives me
nightmares of a buggered job.
Any suggestions?
John
--------
#40572 Empennage
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door cut out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
John,
Mine is still in the scrap bin and I only need to build the doors, windows and
fairings. I can't see anywhere in any other parts of the plans that it gets used.
I used the trim package for doublers and such but I always eyed that piece
and held off because I didn't think there was ANYWAY Van's could have just given
me a free SF of aluminum :)
Rick S.
40185
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Hasbrouck <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>Sent: Sep 20, 2006 2:08 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door cut out
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
>Great to have com restored! Been on last assigned heading and alt. for a
>while! The question that I want to ask concerns the baggage door cut out.
>Is there a use for it in the future plans or can I cut it up for doublers?
>Can't find anything in my plans so far.
>
>John Hasbrouck
>#40264 fuselage
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door cut out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
In my case, I think it was scrap. A nice piece to have as scrap.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> Great to have com restored! Been on last assigned heading and alt. for
> a while! The question that I want to ask concerns the baggage door cut
> out. Is there a use for it in the future plans or can I cut it up for
> doublers? Can't find anything in my plans so far.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264 fuselage
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door cut out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
Tim is correct, it is a scrap piece. I had to go looking for it in the workshop.
It has been a while since I did that step!
Jim C
Do Not Archive
===========================================================
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage door cut out
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
In my case, I think it was scrap. A nice piece to have as scrap.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> Great to have com restored! Been on last assigned heading and alt. for
> a while! The question that I want to ask concerns the baggage door cut
> out. Is there a use for it in the future plans or can I cut it up for
> doublers? Can't find anything in my plans so far.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264 fuselage
>
===========================================================
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
John,
It's only for the passing of the trim cables and not that critical. I hand drew
mine and just used a uni bit in the middle then nibbled it out with a nibbler
and deburred. you can pass the trim cable through to se if you have any areas
that may hang up. It is fun to route these when your done, actually it's a pain
but I used a clothes hanger to pull it through.
Rick S.
40185
-----Original Message-----
>From: johngoodman <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Sep 20, 2006 2:24 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show cutting an oval
hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the plans show the hole
to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do it and each one gives
me nightmares of a buggered job.
>Any suggestions?
>
>John
>
>--------
>#40572 Empennage
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door cut out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
No it taint.....
it's scrapola...
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
>From: jim@CombsFive.Com
>Sent: Sep 20, 2006 2:23 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage door cut out
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
>
>Sir John,
>
>That is THE baggage door. Do not cut!
>
>Jim Combs
>N312F
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>===========================================================
>From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>Date: 2006/09/20 Wed PM 05:08:55 EDT
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door cut out
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
>Great to have com restored! Been on last assigned heading and alt. for a
>while! The question that I want to ask concerns the baggage door cut out.
>Is there a use for it in the future plans or can I cut it up for doublers?
>Can't find anything in my plans so far.
>
>John Hasbrouck
>#40264 fuselage
>
>
>===========================================================
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Baggage door cut out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
John,
Assuming you are talking about the piece you cut from the fuselage, then
cut up as desired. There is another piece that the door is made from.
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 5:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door cut out
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Great to have com restored! Been on last assigned heading and alt. for a
while! The question that I want to ask concerns the baggage door cut out.
Is there a use for it in the future plans or can I cut it up for doublers?
Can't find anything in my plans so far.
John Hasbrouck
#40264 fuselage
Message 15
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| Subject: | Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
John,
Go here ( http://www.jessen-RV10.com ) and go to Empennage, HS, Page 8-7,
then see step #4. Click on the picture to get a better view.
John Jessen
#40328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
--> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show cutting an
oval hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the plans show the
hole to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do it and each one
gives me nightmares of a buggered job.
Any suggestions?
John
--------
#40572 Empennage
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
Message 16
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| Subject: | Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
John,
One way is to drill a pilot hole and use a Demel tool to enlarge it.
Vern (#40324)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
<johngoodman@earthlink.net>
I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show
cutting an oval hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the
plans show the hole to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do
it and each one gives me nightmares of a buggered job.
Any suggestions?
John
--------
#40572 Empennage
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
Message 17
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| Subject: | Cylinder head temps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
With this said, has anyone thought about placing gap seals on all the
control surfaces?
As John has said, you build light, you build clean and you can put less HP
and get the same result.
On September 2nd I made the longest flight in my sailplane I have made to
date. I flew 594 miles from southern California to Paisley Oregon. It took
nine hours and twenty eight minutes.
The point...it was done without a motor. Build light, build clean!
John G. 409
Do not archive.
>From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
>Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 14:03:57 -0700
>
>Power increases and hot rodding are a means to an end. Drag Reduction
>gets to the same result by different means. Speed mods, aerodynamic
>improvements, weight reduction all get you to nirvana. Work on both
>sides of the equation. Keep VAN and his insurance underwriters happy.
>Lust controlled can be a good thing occasionally.
>
>
>Last sentence, has anyone tufted a plans built RV-10 to determine the
>areas of flow disturbances? Drag reduction increases fuel economy.
>Pushing a brick takes fuel. I think there are coins on the table at the
>aft portion of the lower cowl and above and in front of the leading edge
>of the wing attachments.
>
>
>JC #600 "the Turbanator"
>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
>Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 7:37 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
>
>
>John, am trying to hold onto your whirling dervish thought stream, but I
>think I let go on your last sentence below. Is there some internal
>airflow design you are working on that will enable a stock engine to
>outperform one pumped up to 300+ ponies? Is that what you're saying?
>In general, I agree that the airflow is an issue that needs attention,
>ala the LoPresti boys, et al. Does anyone know of any literature on
>what's been done to date? Certainly this goes way back (think the lower
>scoop on the Mustang) and continues to be an issue for the -10 crowd.
>Anyway, what did you last sentence mean, especially in reference to a
>"Plans Built RV-10."
>
>
>John J
>
> Tailcone (just tuned up the old drill press and am now even more
>dangerous in the shop)
>
>
>do not archive
>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
>Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:50 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
>
>Yes but only theoretically. George thinks such things are bunk. Speed
>brakes come into play. Most engines need temperature to expand
>clearances for proper oil distribution, fuel additive needs it to scarf
>lead deposits from spark plugs on Low Idle. Too much, too little, just
>right... sound like a Fairy Tale. Extremes and violent swings are to be
>avoided except in an Emergency situations.
>
>
>Tufting the airfoil to locate and correct back-burbles, stagnant zones
>and improve (reduce) drag are a commendable pursuit. I am prepared to
>finance Randy's fuel bill if he and Rob Hickman have a camera ship
>standing by to document a pure "Plans Built RV-10" Test Flight. And it
>doesn't qualify as Hot Rodding, yet saves fuel and produces similar
>speed results to squeezing 300+ ponies into the RV-10.
>
>
>#600
>
>Do not Archive
>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
>Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:23 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
>
>
>John or other engine guys,
>
>
>Can you really overcool an engine? I understand about shock cooling the
>insides but keeping your whole engine in a nice cool temperature
>environment sounds like a worthwhile goose chase. I'd keep mine at room
>temperature if I could help it for tolerances, TBO, etc.
>
>
>Rob Wright
>
>#392
>
>Dreaming about hooking a big vacuum to the lower
>cowl........................
>
>
>s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Baggage door cut out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Rick, Tim et. al.
Thanks for the reply. I also found it hard to believe Van would supply
such a nice piece of scrap . On to antenna doublers I go.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Another way is to use your Unibit to make two holes side-by-side and
then trim out the rest.
Linn
Vern W. Smith wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
>
>John,
>
>One way is to drill a pilot hole and use a Demel tool to enlarge it.
>
>Vern (#40324)
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
>Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 2:25 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
><johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show
>cutting an oval hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the
>plans show the hole to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do
>it and each one gives me nightmares of a buggered job.
>Any suggestions?
>
>John
>
>--------
>#40572 Empennage
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Linn has it right. Just go to jessen-rv10.com and take a look at the series
of pictures in the thumbnails. You get to the thumbnails by clicking on the
picture for that particular step under the HS section. You'll see the
procedure, step by step. Making the hole as shown in the plans is easy to
do.
John Jessen
#40328 Tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters
--> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Another way is to use your Unibit to make two holes side-by-side and then
trim out the rest.
Linn
Vern W. Smith wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
>
>John,
>
>One way is to drill a pilot hole and use a Demel tool to enlarge it.
>
>Vern (#40324)
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
>Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 2:25 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
><johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show
>cutting an oval hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables.
>the plans show the hole to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways
>to do it and each one gives me nightmares of a buggered job.
>Any suggestions?
>
>John
>
>--------
>#40572 Empennage
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: John Ackerman <johnag5b@cableone.net>
John, in retrospect, this looks a lot worse than it is - like so many
things on the 10.
I found that the left hole needs to be enlarged anyway, to keep from
cutting the trim cable housing. Others probably know better methods,
but I drilled a stater hole, then cut to the line with a carbide burr
on a cheap ($5.00!!) die grinder from Harbor Freight and deburred.
John Ackerman
40458 wings
On Sep 20, 2006, at 2:24 PM, johngoodman wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
> I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show
> cutting an oval hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables.
> the plans show the hole to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways
> to do it and each one gives me nightmares of a buggered job.
> Any suggestions?
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Empennage
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Questions from a beginner |
Hi
As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
reading
about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for the list
experts. They are:
* I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage floor.
Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of a 3 car
garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down (versus
painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any comments or
recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
* With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool
still
represent a worthwhile advantage over the "standard" c-frame dimplier?
* Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they claim
(versus other hand squeezers)?
* I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
squeezers.
Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the use of
pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
* Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
systems
etc) when completing the empennage kit?
Cheers
Les
RV wannabe
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
Hi Les,
I'm in a two car garage, built all thru the wings on just one side, the
fuse needed both halves. See the rest below.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Questions from a beginner
Hi
As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
reading about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for the
list experts. They are:
=B7 I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage
floor. Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of
a 3 car garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down
(versus painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any
comments or recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
I painted my floor with Rustolium garage floor kit, but it takes more
than they say...needed? Not really If I were to do it again I would hire
a pro and have it done with commercial epoxy urethane. I did put down
interlocking floor matts and found them to be very beneficial for the
legs and feet. Picked them up at Sears.
=B7 With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool
still represent a worthwhile advantage over the "standard" c-frame
dimplier?
I used the standard C-frame but everyone I talked to said they love
the DRDT-2. I would go with the DRDT if I were to do it again just for
the noise factor!!!
=B7 Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they
claim (versus other hand squeezers)?
Don't know, I used a pneumatic squeezer from start to finish and you
would have to pry that from my cold dead hands, it's that good.
=B7 I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
squeezers. Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the
use of pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
I'm slow build....I would still get it, sell it in an hour on the RV
list when your done, they are in demand when used and from another RV
builder...that good...really.
=B7 Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
systems etc) when completing the empennage kit?
Lighting? not really but wiring for it yes, static ports and runs.
Others will chime but for the tail if you can do your wiring runs and
put in your rudder cables before the top is on it's easier. I crawled
into mine later..not that big of a deal. Maybe your antennas could be
drilled and doublers put in, strobe power pack mounts if your putting it
in there. lot of little but doable later things.
Cheers
Les
RV wannabe
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I don't know if it's worth painting the floor just to do the kit unless
your floor is horrible and hard to find parts on. I used 2'x2' squares
of interlocking foam (I think designed for kids play areas) for the
floor of my garage, just in 2 strips along the workbench. Warmer in
the winter and less hard on the feet. Other than that, just
cement.
If I were starting over, I'd buy the DRDT-2. I think it would be
nice. I've never used one though, but it sure makes sense.
Don't know about the "main squeeze"...never used one.
Absolutely buy a pneumatic squeezer. It's the best tool investment
you'll make. They're simple.
No major decisions during empennage work. Pretty much everything
major can wait.
Have fun!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
>
>
> As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
> anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
> reading about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for the
> list experts. They are:
>
>
>
> I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage floor.
> Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of a 3 car
> garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down (versus
> painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any comments or
> recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
>
>
>
> With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool
> still represent a worthwhile advantage over the standard c-frame dimplier?
>
>
>
> Is the Cleaveland Tools Main Squeeze as good as they claim
> (versus other hand squeezers)?
>
>
>
> I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
> squeezers. Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the
> use of pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
>
>
>
> Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
> systems etc) when completing the empennage kit?
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les
>
> RV wannabe
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
Les,
To sort of put my comments in context, I only have my HS, VS, and rudder on
the -10 done thus far...so on to your questions.
(a) I did the epoxy on all 3-bays of my garage -- love it. I think only
doing one bay would be okay. Helps with reflecting light, keeping down
dust, making sweeping up aluminum chips easy, and I can actually find
dropped opjects (i.e. rivets). Doesn't help with the hardess on the feet
though--I have a small carpet on one side of my workbench that helps out
some.
(b) I have the DDRT-2, and a c-frame which I got with the used tool package
I bought from a guy. I haven't even touched the c-frame -- love the -2.
I'm planning SB, but I still think it would be worth the investment just fo
r
the tail. In fact, a buddy who is building a -8 came over the other week
(only 4 miles away) to use the -2 instead of his c-frame -- that ought to
say something.
(c,d) Don't know about the hand sqeezer. I can count on one hand the
number of times I've used mine since I have the pneumatic set from ClearAir
Tools. If you have a pneumatic, any brand of hand sqeezer will do just fin
e
becuase you won't use it very often. The pneumatic with an ajustable set i
s
about the easist part of the whole process--extrememly controlled with
absolutely consistent results. Not difficult to master what-so-ever.
(e) Don't know for sure -- I didn't make any decisions (hopefully I didn't
need to).
Hope this helps!
Oh yeah, I put off starting the -10 for a couple years -- finally realized
I'll never finish all the projects around the house that we want to get don
e
before starting the -10. Instead, I made the agreement with my wife that I
would take breaks from the airplane to still do house projects. For
example, I just finished painting the entire exterior of the house (took
almost a week of vacation), but now that it's done, I'm ready to work on th
e
elevators again. Order the kit, you won't regret it.
-Jim
hmmm, to archive or not to archive, that is the questions? Let's go with,
do not archive
On 9/20/06, Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Hi
>
>
> As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
> anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and readi
ng
> about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for the list
> experts. They are:
>
>
> =B7 I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage floor.
> Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of a 3 car
> garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down (versus
> painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any comments or
> recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
>
>
> =B7 With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool sti
ll
> represent a worthwhile advantage over the "standard" c-frame dimplier?
>
>
> =B7 Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they claim
> (versus other hand squeezers)?
>
>
> =B7 I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
> squeezers. Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the u
se
> of pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
>
>
> =B7 Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
> systems etc) when completing the empennage kit?
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les
>
> RV wannabe
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
o=\o
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Carbon Fiber tape |
I was discussing HOW to put the windows in the rV 10 with a guy currentl
y building a Lancair IV retract/pressurized. He suggested putting 1 1/2
inch wide Carbon Fiber tape over the window edges to help prevent them
from cracking. He also said he would put it over the seam between the c
abin cover and fuselage and the cabin cover and empenage. Does any one
have experience with Carbon tape? I knwo West Systems sells some that
is compatitble with their epoxy. Would this be a good idea? What has
everbody used to fill in the seam between the cabin cover and fuselage/e
mpenage? I think Microballoons would eventually crack in these areas.
VIC.........are you seeing any stress cracks on your plane? What did
you use in these areas?
Thanks,
DEAN
40449 Cowling/Baffling
________________________________________________________________________
<html><P>I was discussing HOW to put the windows in the rV 10 with a guy
currently building a Lancair IV retract/pressurized. He suggested
putting 1 1/2 inch wide Carbon Fiber tape over the window edges to help
prevent them from cracking. He also said he would put it over the
seam between the cabin cover and fuselage and the cabin cover and empen
age. Does any one have experience with Carbon tape? I
knwo West Systems sells some that is compatitble with their epoxy.
Would this be a good idea? What has everbody used to fill i
n the seam between the cabin cover and fuselage/empenage? I
think Microballoons would eventually crack in these areas. V
IC.........are you seeing any stress cracks on your plane? What di
d you use in these areas?</P>
<P>Thanks,</P>
<P>DEAN</P>
<P>40449 Cowling/Baffling</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carbon Fiber tape |
Far better to use fiberglass (see my previous posting) especially where
the tape would be put over aluminum. Carbon fiber on alumiuium is
corrosive.
----- Original Message -----
From: ddddsp1@juno.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 10:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Carbon Fiber tape
I was discussing HOW to put the windows in the rV 10 with a guy
currently building a Lancair IV retract/pressurized. He suggested
putting 1 1/2 inch wide Carbon Fiber tape over the window edges to help
prevent them from cracking. He also said he would put it over the seam
between the cabin cover and fuselage and the cabin cover and empenage.
Does any one have experience with Carbon tape? I knwo West Systems
sells some that is compatitble with their epoxy. Would this be a good
idea? What has everbody used to fill in the seam between the cabin
cover and fuselage/empenage? I think Microballoons would eventually
crack in these areas. VIC.........are you seeing any stress cracks on
your plane? What did you use in these areas?
Thanks,
DEAN
40449 Cowling/Baffling
________________________________________________________________________
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Carbon Fiber tape |
Use of Carbon and Fiberglas combinations should not be used without
clear knowledge of the final result. It will not be as intended.
Carbon fiber should always be covered with impregnated fiberglass cloth
so that #1, no contact is made with other galvanic materials and #2
there is a sacrificial layer for sanding. If you need the nobility list,
let me know offline. The resultant carbon fibers are a bitch to get
primed for final paint. The carbon strips used on the canopy and doors
of the RV-10 were stiffeners specifically spec'ed by Composites
Unlimited (and safely buried underneath glass). Andy Marshall's book
warns of the un-intended consequences.
Dozens of Lancairs have suffered polyester filler collapse and fillet
failure with the use of microballoons as a structural matrix. They used
it cause it was easier to sand at the time. The alternative made them
whine during construction. It takes 12 to 18 months after final topcoat
to bitch slap you along the head. ( Pictures available on request).
This phenomena is not make nor model specific. Pressurized structures
bring a whole new dynamic to the stresses.
- Turban twists on tight -.
John #600
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Carbon Fiber tape
Far better to use fiberglass (see my previous posting) especially where
the tape would be put over aluminum. Carbon fiber on alumiuium is
corrosive.
----- Original Message -----
From: ddddsp1@juno.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 10:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Carbon Fiber tape
I was discussing HOW to put the windows in the rV 10 with a guy
currently building a Lancair IV retract/pressurized. He suggested
putting 1 1/2 inch wide Carbon Fiber tape over the window edges to help
prevent them from cracking. He also said he would put it over the seam
between the cabin cover and fuselage and the cabin cover and empenage.
Does any one have experience with Carbon tape? I knwo West Systems
sells some that is compatitble with their epoxy. Would this be a good
idea? What has everbody used to fill in the seam between the cabin
cover and fuselage/empenage? I think Microballoons would eventually
crack in these areas. VIC.........are you seeing any stress cracks on
your plane? What did you use in these areas?
Thanks,
DEAN
40449 Cowling/Baffling
________________________________________________________________________
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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