Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:27 AM - Re: Cutting an oval hole (Phillips, Jack)
2. 06:28 AM - Re: Cutting an oval hole (jdalton77)
3. 06:28 AM - Re: Questions from a beginner (jdalton77)
4. 06:34 AM - Re: Cutting an oval hole (Rick)
5. 07:18 AM - Re: Cylinder head temps (Jesse Saint)
6. 07:24 AM - Re: Questions from a beginner (Jesse Saint)
7. 07:44 AM - Re: Questions from a beginner (Dj Merrill)
8. 08:41 AM - Re: Cylinder head temps (John Jessen)
9. 09:09 AM - Re: Questions from a beginner (Bill Gipson)
10. 09:11 AM - Re: Cutting an oval hole (johngoodman)
11. 09:18 AM - Re: Questions from a beginner (johngoodman)
12. 09:23 AM - Re: Questions from a beginner (Maule Driver)
13. 10:33 AM - Re: Cylinder head temps (John W. Cox)
14. 10:35 AM - Re: Questions from a beginner (John W. Cox)
15. 10:40 AM - FW: [LML] Re: Backfires LOP (John W. Cox)
16. 10:46 AM - FW: Production schedule for future engine output (John W. Cox)
17. 11:15 AM - Re: FW: Production schedule for future engine output (Pierre Levy)
18. 11:17 AM - Re: FW: Production schedule for future engine output (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
19. 11:41 AM - Re: FW: Production schedule for future engine output (John W. Cox)
20. 11:50 AM - Re: FW: Production schedule for future engine output (Perry Casson)
21. 12:39 PM - Re: FW: Production schedule for future engine output (John W. Cox)
22. 01:47 PM - Re: Carbon Fiber tape (Dave Saylor)
23. 01:52 PM - trim brackets ()
24. 03:21 PM - Re: trim brackets (Jesse Saint)
25. 03:49 PM - Re: trim brackets (jdalton77)
26. 04:18 PM - Re: Re: trim brackets ()
27. 05:42 PM - Re: Questions from a beginner (Larry Rosen)
28. 06:11 PM - One Small Victory... (Sean Stephens)
29. 06:19 PM - Re: Questions from a beginner (Les Kearney)
30. 06:33 PM - Re: Questions from a beginner (Larry Rosen)
31. 06:44 PM - seat belts (David McNeill)
32. 10:27 PM - Re: Questions from a beginner (Ben Westfall)
33. 10:57 PM - Re: trim brackets (DejaVu)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
I'm at the same stage John, and will cut those holes tonight. I plan to
use a hole saw and then elongate the holes with a rat-tail file.
Jack Phillips
#40610
N142KW reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 5:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
<johngoodman@earthlink.net>
I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show
cutting an oval hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the
plans show the hole to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do
it and each one gives me nightmares of a buggered job.
Any suggestions?
John
--------
#40572 Empennage
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
_________________________________________________
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
A file didn't work so well for me - I used a step drill and a dremel tool.
Worked great but was loud!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 7:26 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
> <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
> I'm at the same stage John, and will cut those holes tonight. I plan to
> use a hole saw and then elongate the holes with a rat-tail file.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> N142KW reserved
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
> Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 5:25 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
> I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show
> cutting an oval hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the
> plans show the hole to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do
> it and each one gives me nightmares of a buggered job.
> Any suggestions?
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Empennage
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
>
>
> _________________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
Les,
Welcome! First of all, just do it! order that kit!
I have the "Main Squeeze" and it is light-years ahead of any of the
other squeezers. It's light, and it's very easy to squeeze with. I had
planned on buying a pneumatic squeezer but so far I haven't needed it
(working on Tailcone) - the MS is so simple to squeeze.
I also have the DRDT-2 and a highly recommend it. It's way easier (and
quieter) than the C-Frame. It's also an extremely well-made tool.
Good luck!
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 11:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Questions from a beginner
Hi
As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
reading about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for the
list experts. They are:
=B7 I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage
floor. Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of
a 3 car garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down
(versus painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any
comments or recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
=B7 With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool
still represent a worthwhile advantage over the "standard" c-frame
dimplier?
=B7 Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they
claim (versus other hand squeezers)?
=B7 I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
squeezers. Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the
use of pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
=B7 Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
systems etc) when completing the empennage kit?
Cheers
Les
RV wannabe
Message 4
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| Subject: | Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Jack,
You like metal work huh? I hated using a file on sheet metal to enlarge holes mainly
because it would grab and distort the hole but it was mostly my lack of
technique and laziness to break out the dremel tool. Although I used the large
fine vixen on the edges to remove the tooloing and clean up the edge. Two light
passes then followed with the V-grove deburr tool and a light buff with the
scotchbite made the aluminum sheet just as smooth and polished as you could ever
want.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>Sent: Sep 21, 2006 4:26 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
>I'm at the same stage John, and will cut those holes tonight. I plan to
>use a hole saw and then elongate the holes with a rat-tail file.
>
>Jack Phillips
>#40610
>N142KW reserved
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
>Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 5:25 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
><johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show
>cutting an oval hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the
>plans show the hole to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do
>it and each one gives me nightmares of a buggered job.
>Any suggestions?
>
>John
>
>--------
>#40572 Empennage
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
>
>
>_________________________________________________
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Cylinder head temps |
This may be off-topic, but I would say, John, and lust controlled IS a
good
thing ALWAYS. It=92s those guys with uncontrolled lusts that you have
to
watch out for.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 5:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
Power increases and hot rodding are a means to an end. Drag Reduction
gets
to the same result by different means. Speed mods, aerodynamic
improvements, weight reduction all get you to nirvana. Work on both
sides of
the equation. Keep VAN and his insurance underwriters happy. Lust
controlled can be a good thing occasionally.
Last sentence, has anyone tufted a plans built RV-10 to determine the
areas
of flow disturbances? Drag reduction increases fuel economy. Pushing a
brick takes fuel. I think there are coins on the table at the aft
portion
of the lower cowl and above and in front of the leading edge of the wing
attachments.
JC #600 =93the Turbanator=94
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 7:37 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
John, am trying to hold onto your whirling dervish thought stream, but I
think I let go on your last sentence below. Is there some internal
airflow
design you are working on that will enable a stock engine to outperform
one
pumped up to 300+ ponies? Is that what you're saying? In general, I
agree
that the airflow is an issue that needs attention, ala the LoPresti
boys, et
al. Does anyone know of any literature on what's been done to date?
Certainly this goes way back (think the lower scoop on the Mustang) and
continues to be an issue for the -10 crowd. Anyway, what did you last
sentence mean, especially in reference to a "Plans Built RV-10."
John J
Tailcone (just tuned up the old drill press and am now even more
dangerous
in the shop)
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
Yes but only theoretically. George thinks such things are bunk. Speed
brakes come into play. Most engines need temperature to expand
clearances
for proper oil distribution, fuel additive needs it to scarf lead
deposits
from spark plugs on Low Idle. Too much, too little, just right=85
sound like
a Fairy Tale. Extremes and violent swings are to be avoided except in
an
Emergency situations.
Tufting the airfoil to locate and correct back-burbles, stagnant zones
and
improve (reduce) drag are a commendable pursuit. I am prepared to
finance
Randy=92s fuel bill if he and Rob Hickman have a camera ship standing by
to
document a pure =93Plans Built RV-10=94 Test Flight. And it doesn=92t
qualify as
Hot Rodding, yet saves fuel and produces similar speed results to
squeezing
300+ ponies into the RV-10.
#600
Do not Archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
John or other engine guys,
Can you really overcool an engine? I understand about shock cooling the
insides but keeping your whole engine in a nice cool temperature
environment
sounds like a worthwhile goose chase. I=92d keep mine at room
temperature if
I could help it for tolerances, TBO, etc.
Rob Wright
#392
Dreaming about hooking a big vacuum to the lower
cowl=85=85=85=85=85=85=85=85
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
"http://wiki.matronics.com"http://wiki.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
9/19/2006
--
9/20/2006
Message 6
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| Subject: | Questions from a beginner |
I think Tim=92s suggestions are good. As far as the Main Squeeze, I
tried it
at OSH and didn=92t like it. I like the fact that it is easier to
squeeze,
but to do so you have to =93throw=94 the handle a lot more, so I think
it would
be a little harder to work with. I think the pneumatic squeezer is a
good
choice, and either way, the Avery squeezer has been a very useful tool,
for
riveting and dimpling.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 11:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Questions from a beginner
Hi
As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
reading
about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for the list
experts. They are:
* I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage floor.
Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of a 3 car
garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down (versus
painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any comments or
recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
* With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool
still
represent a worthwhile advantage over the =93standard=94 c-frame
dimplier?
* Is the Cleaveland Tools =93Main Squeeze=94 as good as they
claim
(versus other hand squeezers)?
* I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
squeezers.
Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the use of
pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
* Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
systems
etc) when completing the empennage kit?
Cheers
Les
RV wannabe
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
"http://wiki.matronics.com"http://wiki.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
9/19/2006
--
9/20/2006
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
>
>
> I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage
> floor. Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay
> of a 3 car garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad
> down (versus painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working.
> Any comments or recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
>
Hi Les,
I bought some foam pad flooring at Sam's Club (or similar) and it
has made a world of difference in my ability to stand and work at the
bench for hours on end. It comes in approximately 2 foot square pieces
that have interlocking tabs around the edges, so you just hook them
together in whatever pattern you want on your floor. I don't have the
packaging anymore or I would send you the brand name, but you should be
able to find this at Walmart or similar, perhaps even an autoparts
store. Not very expensive, either, which is a nice bonus.
>
>
> Is the Cleaveland Tools Main Squeeze as good as they claim
> (versus other hand squeezers)?
>
YES!!! I love this hand squeezer. It is very easy to use. I don't
have a pneumatic squeezer, and have been using the Main Squeeze for
everything that I can get a squeezer on, otherwise buck buck buck... :-)
-Dj
Message 8
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| Subject: | Cylinder head temps |
Well, there goes my reason for building...
John J
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 7:17 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
This may be off-topic, but I would say, John, and lust controlled IS a good
thing ALWAYS. It's those guys with uncontrolled lusts that you have to
watch out for.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 5:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
Power increases and hot rodding are a means to an end. Drag Reduction gets
to the same result by different means. Speed mods, aerodynamic
improvements, weight reduction all get you to nirvana. Work on both sides of
the equation. Keep VAN and his insurance underwriters happy. Lust
controlled can be a good thing occasionally.
Last sentence, has anyone tufted a plans built RV-10 to determine the areas
of flow disturbances? Drag reduction increases fuel economy. Pushing a
brick takes fuel. I think there are coins on the table at the aft portion
of the lower cowl and above and in front of the leading edge of the wing
attachments.
JC #600 "the Turbanator"
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 7:37 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
John, am trying to hold onto your whirling dervish thought stream, but I
think I let go on your last sentence below. Is there some internal airflow
design you are working on that will enable a stock engine to outperform one
pumped up to 300+ ponies? Is that what you're saying? In general, I agree
that the airflow is an issue that needs attention, ala the LoPresti boys, et
al. Does anyone know of any literature on what's been done to date?
Certainly this goes way back (think the lower scoop on the Mustang) and
continues to be an issue for the -10 crowd. Anyway, what did you last
sentence mean, especially in reference to a "Plans Built RV-10."
John J
Tailcone (just tuned up the old drill press and am now even more dangerous
in the shop)
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
Yes but only theoretically. George thinks such things are bunk. Speed
brakes come into play. Most engines need temperature to expand clearances
for proper oil distribution, fuel additive needs it to scarf lead deposits
from spark plugs on Low Idle. Too much, too little, just right. sound like
a Fairy Tale. Extremes and violent swings are to be avoided except in an
Emergency situations.
Tufting the airfoil to locate and correct back-burbles, stagnant zones and
improve (reduce) drag are a commendable pursuit. I am prepared to finance
Randy's fuel bill if he and Rob Hickman have a camera ship standing by to
document a pure "Plans Built RV-10" Test Flight. And it doesn't qualify as
Hot Rodding, yet saves fuel and produces similar speed results to squeezing
300+ ponies into the RV-10.
#600
Do not Archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
John or other engine guys,
Can you really overcool an engine? I understand about shock cooling the
insides but keeping your whole engine in a nice cool temperature environment
sounds like a worthwhile goose chase. I'd keep mine at room temperature if
I could help it for tolerances, TBO, etc.
Rob Wright
#392
Dreaming about hooking a big vacuum to the lower cowl........
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-- Date: 9/19/2006
--
9/20/2006
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Gipson" <gipsowh@hotmail.com>
Les, here is one more perspective. We are nearly finished with my 10 - all
slow build kits. I built the two "EAA" workbenches, bought rubber floor
mating strips at Home Depot, purchased and used the DRDT-2 tool, the
Cleaveland hand squeezer, cheapest portable electric drills (with good
bits), and a good 3x rivet gun. The hand squeezer cam action makes
squeezing rivets very easy. The DRDT-2 makes dimpling skins go much much
faster- and quieter than the C-bracket tool. Highly recommended. I also
bought a two-stage electric Sears air compressor for the 3X rivet gun and
hydraulic ratchet wrench. These are the primary tools we've used with good
service while building the 10 starting in May '04.
Bill Gipson
40227
>From: "Jim Beyer" <fehdxl@gmail.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions from a beginner
>Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 00:09:08 -0400
>
>Les,
>
>To sort of put my comments in context, I only have my HS, VS, and rudder on
>the -10 done thus far...so on to your questions.
>(a) I did the epoxy on all 3-bays of my garage -- love it. I think only
>doing one bay would be okay. Helps with reflecting light, keeping down
>dust, making sweeping up aluminum chips easy, and I can actually find
>dropped opjects (i.e. rivets). Doesn't help with the hardess on the feet
>though--I have a small carpet on one side of my workbench that helps out
>some.
>(b) I have the DDRT-2, and a c-frame which I got with the used tool package
>I bought from a guy. I haven't even touched the c-frame -- love the -2.
>I'm planning SB, but I still think it would be worth the investment just
>for
>the tail. In fact, a buddy who is building a -8 came over the other week
>(only 4 miles away) to use the -2 instead of his c-frame -- that ought to
>say something.
>(c,d) Don't know about the hand sqeezer. I can count on one hand the
>number of times I've used mine since I have the pneumatic set from ClearAir
>Tools. If you have a pneumatic, any brand of hand sqeezer will do just
>fine
>becuase you won't use it very often. The pneumatic with an ajustable set
>is
>about the easist part of the whole process--extrememly controlled with
>absolutely consistent results. Not difficult to master what-so-ever.
>(e) Don't know for sure -- I didn't make any decisions (hopefully I didn't
>need to).
>
>Hope this helps!
>
>Oh yeah, I put off starting the -10 for a couple years -- finally realized
>I'll never finish all the projects around the house that we want to get
>done
>before starting the -10. Instead, I made the agreement with my wife that I
>would take breaks from the airplane to still do house projects. For
>example, I just finished painting the entire exterior of the house (took
>almost a week of vacation), but now that it's done, I'm ready to work on
>the
>elevators again. Order the kit, you won't regret it.
>
>-Jim
>
>hmmm, to archive or not to archive, that is the questions? Let's go with,
>do not archive
>
>On 9/20/06, Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>>
>>
>>As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
>>anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
>>reading
>>about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for the list
>>experts. They are:
>>
>>
>>
>> I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage floor.
>>Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of a 3 car
>>garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down (versus
>>painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any comments or
>>recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
>>
>>
>>
>> With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool still
>>represent a worthwhile advantage over the "standard" c-frame dimplier?
>>
>>
>>
>> Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they claim
>>(versus other hand squeezers)?
>>
>>
>>
>> I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
>>squeezers. Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the
>>use
>>of pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
>>
>>
>>
>> Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
>>systems etc) when completing the empennage kit?
>>
>>
>>
>>Cheers
>>
>>
>>
>>Les
>>
>>RV wannabe
>>
>>
>>
>>*
>>
>===========
>===========
>===========
>===========
>===========
>>*
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>o=\o
_________________________________________________________________
Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and morethen map the best
route! http://local.live.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting an oval hole |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
I'd like to thank everyone for the quick responses and good ideas. I've been looking
at the Uni Bit thinking it was the solution, but now I'm gonna go for it.
I really appreciated the JJessen web site - you have a new lurker [Wink]
--------
#40572 Empennage
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63020#63020
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Les,
Definitely get the foam pad. I have some and will definitely get more. I spend
a lot of time on my feet on this project. I've also used a lot of scrap carpet
to keep off the hard concrete. Don't forget a chair. You can't have too much
light.
John
[quote="kearney(at)shaw.ca"]Hi
As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In anticipation of
this I have been organizing a garage work space and reading about the required
tools. To that I have a few questions for the list experts. They are:
I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage floor. Application
is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of a 3 car garage. I am
wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down (versus painting) as it will
be easier on the feet when working. Any comments or recommendations as to workspace
floor treatment?
With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool still represent
a worthwhile advantage over the standard c-frame dimplier?
Is the Cleaveland Tools Main Squeeze as good as they claim (versus other
hand squeezers)?
I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic squeezers. Again
with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the use of pneumatic squeezers
difficult to master?
Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting systems etc)
when completing the empennage kit?
Cheers
Les
RV wannabe
> [b]
--------
#40572 Empennage
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63023#63023
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I'm a QB beginner too as of August 21. If you can, I would highly
recommend the week-long tail kit program at the Alexander Tech Center
offers in Griffin GA. In addition to getting my fin, rudder and 80% of
the HS built, I learned that:
1) rubber padding is preferable over a hard, raw concrete floor in
those high use areas
2) the DRDT-2 is more than worth the premium. (I've had a chance to use
both devices - both get it done but there is no comparison)
3) the 'main squeeze' takes less force than the common alternatives and
appears to be a very fine tool. But having used 3 different hand
squeezers, I actually preferred one of the alternatives while others
preferred the main squeeze. The lesson; there's great value in getting
a chance to try a variety of tools, which was an unexpected benefit of
the Tech Center experience.
4) The pneumatic squeezer is more than worth the premium. Consider it
mandatory. I guess you don't really need a hand squeezer after all as
others have said.
The Alexander Tech Center class seems to be an excellent way to start a
'10 for first timers. You get a lot done (actually too much for this
still hurting and injured builder) and 1:1 instruction from an
experienced staff including a remarkable 20yo young man.
Bill in Durham
Message 13
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| Subject: | Cylinder head temps |
Lust is a strong motivator. Moderation they tell me is the key and for
those guys who walk the other side of the street, I mean no harm setting
Hedonism aside for the moment. Remember Jimmy Carter? I try not to
covet but to pursue similar things.
I lust in my heart every day after features I see going into RV-10s. I
think it is time to now ask for forgiveness, cause it does not seem to
go away with time. Cold showers doesn't help either :-).
John W. Cox
Do not Archive this foolishness
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 7:17 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
This may be off-topic, but I would say, John, and lust controlled IS a
good thing ALWAYS. It's those guys with uncontrolled lusts that you
have to watch out for.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 5:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
Power increases and hot rodding are a means to an end. Drag Reduction
gets to the same result by different means. Speed mods, aerodynamic
improvements, weight reduction all get you to nirvana. Work on both
sides of the equation. Keep VAN and his insurance underwriters happy.
Lust controlled can be a good thing occasionally.
Last sentence, has anyone tufted a plans built RV-10 to determine the
areas of flow disturbances? Drag reduction increases fuel economy.
Pushing a brick takes fuel. I think there are coins on the table at the
aft portion of the lower cowl and above and in front of the leading edge
of the wing attachments.
JC #600 "the Turbanator"
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 7:37 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
John, am trying to hold onto your whirling dervish thought stream, but I
think I let go on your last sentence below. Is there some internal
airflow design you are working on that will enable a stock engine to
outperform one pumped up to 300+ ponies? Is that what you're saying?
In general, I agree that the airflow is an issue that needs attention,
ala the LoPresti boys, et al. Does anyone know of any literature on
what's been done to date? Certainly this goes way back (think the lower
scoop on the Mustang) and continues to be an issue for the -10 crowd.
Anyway, what did you last sentence mean, especially in reference to a
"Plans Built RV-10."
John J
Tailcone (just tuned up the old drill press and am now even more
dangerous in the shop)
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
Yes but only theoretically. George thinks such things are bunk. Speed
brakes come into play. Most engines need temperature to expand
clearances for proper oil distribution, fuel additive needs it to scarf
lead deposits from spark plugs on Low Idle. Too much, too little, just
right... sound like a Fairy Tale. Extremes and violent swings are to be
avoided except in an Emergency situations.
Tufting the airfoil to locate and correct back-burbles, stagnant zones
and improve (reduce) drag are a commendable pursuit. I am prepared to
finance Randy's fuel bill if he and Rob Hickman have a camera ship
standing by to document a pure "Plans Built RV-10" Test Flight. And it
doesn't qualify as Hot Rodding, yet saves fuel and produces similar
speed results to squeezing 300+ ponies into the RV-10.
#600
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
John or other engine guys,
Can you really overcool an engine? I understand about shock cooling the
insides but keeping your whole engine in a nice cool temperature
environment sounds like a worthwhile goose chase. I'd keep mine at room
temperature if I could help it for tolerances, TBO, etc.
Rob Wright
#392
Dreaming about hooking a big vacuum to the lower
cowl........................
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 14
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| Subject: | Questions from a beginner |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Harbor Freight has a Sidewalk Sale coming the first weekend of October.
At the last one they had packages (I believe eight sheets) of the 2' x
2' interlocking 1/2 foam garage floor pads in each kit. FWIW
John Cox
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions from a beginner
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
>
>
> * I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage
> floor. Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay
> of a 3 car garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad
> down (versus painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working.
> Any comments or recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
>
Hi Les,
I bought some foam pad flooring at Sam's Club (or similar) and it
has made a world of difference in my ability to stand and work at the
bench for hours on end. It comes in approximately 2 foot square pieces
that have interlocking tabs around the edges, so you just hook them
together in whatever pattern you want on your floor. I don't have the
packaging anymore or I would send you the brand name, but you should be
able to find this at Walmart or similar, perhaps even an autoparts
store. Not very expensive, either, which is a nice bonus.
>
>
> * Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they claim
> (versus other hand squeezers)?
>
YES!!! I love this hand squeezer. It is very easy to use. I don't
have a pneumatic squeezer, and have been using the Main Squeeze for
everything that I can get a squeezer on, otherwise buck buck buck...
:-)
-Dj
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: FW: [LML] Re: Backfires LOP |
This snippet of a post from the guys of GAMI has value to the issue of
cylinder heat temperatures. It also touches on LOP operations, low
r.p.m. idle times, lead deposits and longevity of exhaust header tubes
(not to be confused with exhaust valve guides and sodium filled valves).
The question for the day, what role does the lead additive in 100LL play
in detonation when you run high CHT or high compression pistons. Take
it away Monty -.
John - #600
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of
Walter Atkinson
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 8:27 AM
Subject: [LML] Re: Backfires LOP
Jim:
**I believe that the ROP has excess fuel which should cool the burn and
just maybe leave MORE lead on the valve stem than while LOP.**
1) The excess fuel really does not cool the burn. What happens is that
the excess fuel delays the burn RATE, which delays the peak pressure,
which lowers the pressure against the thermal boundary layer and
decreases the number of BTUs that are transferred into the metal.
2) I garner from your statement that you think lead in the fuel helps
lubricate the valves. This is another OWT. Lead as it exists during
and after the combustion event is a salt of bromide. (Bromide is added
to the fuel to scavenge the lead so it leaves the combustion chamber,
rather than leave deposits. Since the temp of combustion is around 3800
dF and the lead salt melts at 1308dF, it leaves the combustion chamber
as a gas.) In any case, salts are abrasive. Abrasives make really poor
lubricants. Lead does nothing to lubricate the valves. Nothing.
Walter
Message 16
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| Subject: | FW: Production schedule for future engine output |
Diesel aircraft engines for worldwide RV-10 potential. FYI. 300 hp
variant. Pictures available offline (it's a radial double-stacked 8).
Thielert is working on one as well cause 100LL is simply not available
in Europe. The airlines are working on bio-diesel as a replacement for
Jet A. Just more food for thought.
John
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: Zoche [mailto:info@zoche.de]
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: Production schedule for future engine output
Dear Sir,
thank you for your e-mail and the interest you express in our engines.
We still are in a concurrent JAR-E and FAR 33 certification procedure
which will require about two more years. It is considered to expand our
current German / U.S. certification program to a European / U.S.
certification program. Availability of production engines is at least
two years away. The 150 and 300 hp engines will be followed by the 70 hp
Z0 03A which shares most of its components with the ZO O1A aero-diesel.
As we do not sell engines yet, there is no final price list. However,
our prices will be competitive to those of conventional aircraft engines
of similar horsepower output, on a Dollar per horsepower scale. Major
savings are to be expected through reduced operating costs.
In case of further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us or
visit our webpage and frequently asked questions list at
http://www.zoche.de
Yours Sincerely,
Georg Zoche
Am 28.08.2006 15:20 Uhr schrieb "John W. Cox" unter
<johnwcox@pacificnw.com>:
I am over from the United States for a week and wanting to know if you
will go into limited production anytime soon. I build US approved
Experimental Aircraft.
John Cox
Rollandstrasse 70
Koln 50677
Message 17
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| Subject: | FW: Production schedule for future engine output |
very interesting concept, and web site.
Pierre Levy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 11:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Production schedule for future engine output
Diesel aircraft engines for worldwide RV-10 potential. FYI. 300 hp
variant. Pictures available offline (it's a radial double-stacked 8).
Thielert is working on one as well cause 100LL is simply not available
in Europe. The airlines are working on bio-diesel as a replacement for
Jet A. Just more food for thought.
John
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: Zoche [mailto:info@zoche.de]
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: Production schedule for future engine output
Dear Sir,
thank you for your e-mail and the interest you express in our engines.
We still are in a concurrent JAR-E and FAR 33 certification procedure
which will require about two more years. It is considered to expand our
current German / U.S. certification program to a European / U.S.
certification program. Availability of production engines is at least
two years away. The 150 and 300 hp engines will be followed by the 70 hp
Z0 03A which shares most of its components with the ZO O1A aero-diesel.
As we do not sell engines yet, there is no final price list. However,
our prices will be competitive to those of conventional aircraft engines
of similar horsepower output, on a Dollar per horsepower scale. Major
savings are to be expected through reduced operating costs.
In case of further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us or
visit our webpage and frequently asked questions list at
http://www.zoche.de
Yours Sincerely,
Georg Zoche
Am 28.08.2006 15:20 Uhr schrieb "John W. Cox" unter
<johnwcox@pacificnw.com>:
I am over from the United States for a week and wanting to know if you
will go into limited production anytime soon. I build US approved
Experimental Aircraft.
John Cox
Rollandstrasse 70
Koln 50677
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Production schedule for future engine output |
Don't know what this means to this group...but my friend who's been waiting
for his Delta Hawk 180hp engine is about ready to receive it in the next
week. I understand that this is one of the first batches to be shipped to
builders.
P
Message 19
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| Subject: | FW: Production schedule for future engine output |
Some builders have been curious about engine alternatives beyond rotary.
Diesel, radial, water-cooled, corvette and other variants than
Lycosaurus. If Deltahawk floats your boat at 180hp - Good Sailing and
keep us informed. Some did not know of the Zoche.
JC
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
GRANSCOTT@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Production schedule for future engine output
Don't know what this means to this group...but my friend who's been
waiting for his Delta Hawk 180hp engine is about ready to receive it in
the next week. I understand that this is one of the first batches to be
shipped to builders.
P
Message 20
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| Subject: | FW: Production schedule for future engine output |
Zoche - I think it was 1997 when I actually touched their engines at OSH and they
were already
legends for being a year away from certification when they told me "next year"
Interesting guys, they don't seem to want your money, the engines looked well engineered
and
googling Usenet shows they been around since at least 1993 with the same basic
plan. Whoever is
paying the bills over there certainly has a lot of patience.
Perry Casson - Wiring
Message 21
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| Subject: | FW: Production schedule for future engine output |
He is an extension of a University Research project funded by the
Deutsch government. The numbers look impressive and like vaporware, fan
the flames of planners until real engines are in the hands of builders
intending to fly. Thielert has climbed its share of mountains on
airflow and liquid cooling with their 1.7 liter four banger Mercedes.
It is a documented diesel fuel miser.
John
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry Casson
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 11:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Production schedule for future engine output
Zoche - I think it was 1997 when I actually touched their engines at OSH
and they were already legends for being a year away from certification
when they told me "next year"
Interesting guys, they don't seem to want your money, the engines looked
well engineered and googling Usenet shows they been around since at
least 1993 with the same basic plan. Whoever is paying the bills over
there certainly has a lot of patience.
Perry Casson - Wiring
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Carbon Fiber tape |
Carbon tape would be a bit of overkill since it isn't really doing anything
structural. IV-P windows have to hold back a lot of pressure. One layer of
this P/N from Aircraft Spruce would function the same way: 01-06600
Keep in mind you will now have an epoxied layer right up to the transparent
part of the window. You will probably need to paint at least a small margin
past the fiberglass, taking away from the clear part. If you're careful you
can probably make it 1/4" or less.
I don't think youi need to worry about the cabin roof/fuselage joint. There
will be a natrual seam there so paint cracks shouldn't be a problem.
Paint cracks are pretty common almost anywhere there are two materials
butted together without a stress relief (think groove in a sidewalk), in
this case window and Weld-on . On my 10 I am installing the windows with
Silpruf. They are a ways from flying but I will report. It has worked
great on other planes but doesn't look quite as clean and smooth as epoxied
windows. Just depends on what you want.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 10:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Carbon Fiber tape
I was discussing HOW to put the windows in the rV 10 with a guy currently
building a Lancair IV retract/pressurized. He suggested putting 1 1/2 inch
wide Carbon Fiber tape over the window edges to help prevent them from
cracking. He also said he would put it over the seam between the cabin
cover and fuselage and the cabin cover and empenage. Does any one have
experience with Carbon tape? I knwo West Systems sells some that is
compatitble with their epoxy. Would this be a good idea? What has
everbody used to fill in the seam between the cabin cover and
fuselage/empenage? I think Microballoons would eventually crack in these
areas. VIC.........are you seeing any stress cracks on your plane? What
did you use in these areas?
Thanks,
DEAN
40449 Cowling/Baffling
________________________________________________________________________
Message 23
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|
I read with interest ,about the trim brackets problems,today I recive from Dave
Czachorowsky the parts he customize for me,basically he customize the custom
part.when I recive about 4 months ago the first ones I install them ,then when
remove for paint I realize its is imposible to do it without removing the rivets,we
discuss this issue and he build a new ones and install ss inserts for screws
,living some space for the dimple in the cover plate,here are the pictures,he
charge me 25 dol.for the two brackets with the inserts,now I thinks I have
the rigth ones for set up the trims ,and inspection with no hassle.
here are the pictures.
Hugo 40 456
Message 24
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
OK, I am getting close to lust on that one (almost there, John, but not
quite). I could have used those about 2 weeks ago. Man, getting those
cover plates on there with the HS already mounted in place is more than a
bear.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7@bellsouth.net
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 4:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: trim brackets
I read with interest ,about the trim brackets problems,today I recive from
Dave Czachorowsky the parts he customize for me,basically he customize the
custom part.when I recive about 4 months ago the first ones I install them
,then when remove for paint I realize its is imposible to do it without
removing the rivets,we discuss this issue and he build a new ones and
install ss inserts for screws ,living some space for the dimple in the cover
plate,here are the pictures,he charge me 25 dol.for the two brackets with
the inserts,now I thinks I have the rigth ones for set up the trims ,and
inspection with no hassle.
here are the pictures.
Hugo 40 456
--
--
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: trim brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
cool! is there some reason they have to be removed for painting?
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 4:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: trim brackets
>I read with interest ,about the trim brackets problems,today I recive from
>Dave Czachorowsky the parts he customize for me,basically he customize the
>custom part.when I recive about 4 months ago the first ones I install them
>,then when remove for paint I realize its is imposible to do it without
>removing the rivets,we discuss this issue and he build a new ones and
>install ss inserts for screws ,living some space for the dimple in the
>cover plate,here are the pictures,he charge me 25 dol.for the two brackets
>with the inserts,now I thinks I have the rigth ones for set up the trims
>,and inspection with no hassle.
> here are the pictures.
> Hugo 40 456
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: trim brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Yes if you whant to paint beetwen the Hs and the elevator,you cannot remove the
elevator without removing the trim tabs attachments brackets.
hugo40456
>
> From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
> Date: 2006/09/21 Thu PM 06:48:27 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: trim brackets
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
>
> cool! is there some reason they have to be removed for painting?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 4:52 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: trim brackets
>
>
> >I read with interest ,about the trim brackets problems,today I recive from
> >Dave Czachorowsky the parts he customize for me,basically he customize the
> >custom part.when I recive about 4 months ago the first ones I install them
> >,then when remove for paint I realize its is imposible to do it without
> >removing the rivets,we discuss this issue and he build a new ones and
> >install ss inserts for screws ,living some space for the dimple in the
> >cover plate,here are the pictures,he charge me 25 dol.for the two brackets
> >with the inserts,now I thinks I have the rigth ones for set up the trims
> >,and inspection with no hassle.
> > here are the pictures.
> > Hugo 40 456
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
Below are my 2 cents, much of which has already been stated.
I agree with Bill, Alexander Tech Center does offer a great way to get
started and the opportunity to try out all the different brands of
aircraft tools. You can see some of my photos from my build here
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Emp/Alexander/index.html>
Also a write up from Mike Crow, one of the instructors at Alexander here
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/tools/Tools/index.html> at the
bottom of the page.
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
> anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
> reading about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for
> the list experts. They are:
>
>
>
> I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage
> floor. Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay
> of a 3 car garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad
> down (versus painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working.
> Any comments or recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
>
I wish I had finished my garage floor. The concrete never seems to stop
dusting.
>
>
>
> With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool
> still represent a worthwhile advantage over the "standard" c-frame
> dimplier?
>
-I used the DRDT-2 at Alexander for the tail and tail cone it was the
2nd best tool (Pneumatic squeezer is number 1), But after the tail kit
and going quickbuild there is not much need for a c-frame dimplier, so I
purchased a "standard" c-frame. I only need the c-frame for the wing
skins. If it comes down to money invest in a pneumatic squeezer first
and then the DRDT-2
>
>
> Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they claim
> (versus other hand squeezers)?
>
>
>
I agree with Jesse's comment " I like the fact that it is easier to
squeeze, but to do so you have to "throw" the handle a lot more, so I
think it would be a little harder to work with. I think the pneumatic
squeezer is a good choice, and either way, the Avery squeezer has been a
very useful tool, for riveting and dimpling." Since I invested in a
pneumatic squeezer and I still wanted a standard squeezer, I saved some
money and got the Avery.
> I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
> squeezers. Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is
> the use of pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
>
>
>
Get one, well worth the investment. At the end of the project you can
easily sell it and recoup most of the investment. You can look for one
on ebay to save some money.
> Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
> systems etc) when completing the empennage kit?
>
>
>
Tail light and strobe
Static ports
cable fairings
to alodine, prime, alodine & prime or do nothing (no primer wars please)
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les
>
> RV wannabe
>
Buy the kit and get started!
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 28
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| Subject: | One Small Victory... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com>
<http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/060919_meigs.html>
-Sean #40303 (House in Phoenix sold! Get to move back to kit!)
Message 29
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| Subject: | Questions from a beginner |
Hi
Many thanks to all who contributed their insights. Based on the info, I
am
going to pass on the epoxy floor finish and use padding instead.
Provisionally, I plan to use the DRDT-2 instead of the standard C Frame
as
well as a pneumatic squeezer. I say provisionally as I plan to be in
Oregon
for a Van's test flight in a week or so and then plan do to a builder
workshop in the Portland area. Hopefully I will be able to try out both
these tools. Asumming all goes well with the test flight and with the
workshop, I will become the proud owner of a tail kit before I head back
to
Alberta.
For the record, I would like to say thanks to the efforts of people like
Tim
Olson and others who have made available a tremendous amount of building
info on the 'net. I don't think I would even consider this project
without
the online support network that is available.
Cheers
Les
RV10 Wannabe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 9:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Questions from a beginner
Hi
As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
reading
about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for the list
experts. They are:
* I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage floor.
Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of a 3 car
garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down (versus
painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any comments or
recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
* With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool
still
represent a worthwhile advantage over the "standard" c-frame dimplier?
* Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they claim
(versus other hand squeezers)?
* I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
squeezers.
Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the use of
pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
* Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
systems
etc) when completing the empennage kit?
Cheers
Les
RV wannabe
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Enjoy the workshop.
Be careful, the Van's flight test will be an expensive adventure. It
will just be a short time after the flight that you put down your
deposit on the emp kit. ;-)
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> Many thanks to all who contributed their insights. Based on the info,
> I am going to pass on the epoxy floor finish and use padding instead.
>
> Provisionally, I plan to use the DRDT-2 instead of the standard C
> Frame as well as a pneumatic squeezer. I say provisionally as I plan
> to be in Oregon for a Van's test flight in a week or so and then plan
> do to a builder workshop in the Portland area. Hopefully I will be
> able to try out both these tools. Asumming all goes well with the test
> flight and with the workshop, I will become the proud owner of a tail
> kit before I head back to Alberta.
>
> For the record, I would like to say thanks to the efforts of people
> like Tim Olson and others who have made available a tremendous amount
> of building info on the 'net. I don't think I would even consider this
> project without the online support network that is available.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> RV10 Wannabe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Les Kearney
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2006 9:30 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Questions from a beginner
>
> Hi
>
> As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
> anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
> reading about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for
> the list experts. They are:
>
> I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage floor.
> Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of a 3
> car garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down
> (versus painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any
> comments or recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
>
> With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool still
> represent a worthwhile advantage over the standard c-frame dimplier?
>
> Is the Cleaveland Tools Main Squeeze as good as they claim (versus
> other hand squeezers)?
>
> I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic squeezers.
> Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the use of
> pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
>
> Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting systems
> etc) when completing the empennage kit?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> RV wannabe
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 31
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For the new builders:
if you are considering inertial belts for your 10, the AMSAFE belts are
shown on www.inertialbelts.com
Message 32
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| Subject: | Questions from a beginner |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
I paid for the emp kit about 30 minutes after the test flight. Most
expensive "FREE" test flight yet for me.
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions from a beginner
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Enjoy the workshop.
Be careful, the Van's flight test will be an expensive adventure. It
will just be a short time after the flight that you put down your
deposit on the emp kit. ;-)
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> Many thanks to all who contributed their insights. Based on the info,
> I am going to pass on the epoxy floor finish and use padding instead.
>
> Provisionally, I plan to use the DRDT-2 instead of the standard C
> Frame as well as a pneumatic squeezer. I say provisionally as I plan
> to be in Oregon for a Van's test flight in a week or so and then plan
> do to a builder workshop in the Portland area. Hopefully I will be
> able to try out both these tools. Asumming all goes well with the test
> flight and with the workshop, I will become the proud owner of a tail
> kit before I head back to Alberta.
>
> For the record, I would like to say thanks to the efforts of people
> like Tim Olson and others who have made available a tremendous amount
> of building info on the 'net. I don't think I would even consider this
> project without the online support network that is available.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> RV10 Wannabe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Les Kearney
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2006 9:30 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Questions from a beginner
>
> Hi
>
> As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
> anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
> reading about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for
> the list experts. They are:
>
> . I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage floor.
> Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of a 3
> car garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down
> (versus painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any
> comments or recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
>
> . With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool still
> represent a worthwhile advantage over the "standard" c-frame dimplier?
>
> . Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they claim (versus
> other hand squeezers)?
>
> . I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic squeezers.
> Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the use of
> pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
>
> . Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting systems
> etc) when completing the empennage kit?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> RV wannabe
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: trim brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
You can remove the cover plate without removing the rivets. You have to
loosen the nuts at the servo end of the cable, trim the servo full nose down
(trim tab up), push the sleeve of the cable aft allowing the cover plate to
move away from the bottom of the elevator, bend the cable down and carefully
turn the cover plate until it falls off of the sleeve. The new design does
seem to reduce the pain of doing it this way.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 4:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: trim brackets
>I read with interest ,about the trim brackets problems,today I recive from
>Dave Czachorowsky the parts he customize for me,basically he customize the
>custom part.when I recive about 4 months ago the first ones I install them
>,then when remove for paint I realize its is imposible to do it without
>removing the rivets,we discuss this issue and he build a new ones and
>install ss inserts for screws ,living some space for the dimple in the
>cover plate,here are the pictures,he charge me 25 dol.for the two brackets
>with the inserts,now I thinks I have the rigth ones for set up the trims
>,and inspection with no hassle.
> here are the pictures.
> Hugo 40 456
>
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