Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:38 AM - Spinner Gotcha TIP (ddddsp1@juno.com)
2. 02:18 AM - Re: Spinner Gotcha TIP (Tim Olson)
3. 04:06 AM - Re: When to order QB wings & Fuselage (Larry Rosen)
4. 04:21 AM - Re: The Yard Store (Was Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits) (Larry Rosen)
5. 05:26 AM - Re: Spinner Gotcha TIP (linn Walters)
6. 06:20 AM - Lower cowl air inlets (Wayne Edgerton)
7. 06:38 AM - Re: Spinner Gotcha TIP (Carl Froehlich)
8. 08:25 AM - Re: The Yard Store (Was Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits) (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
9. 08:36 AM - [Re: Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits] (Maule Driver)
10. 08:45 AM - Wrong elevator counterweights shipped (Maule Driver)
11. 09:39 AM - Fuel for thought from the plastic boys (John W. Cox)
12. 09:49 AM - Detonation vs. PreIgnition (John W. Cox)
13. 09:51 AM - Re: When to order QB wings & Fuselage (KiloPapa)
14. 10:07 AM - Re: Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits] (John W. Cox)
15. 10:08 AM - Re: Wrong elevator counterweights shipped (John Hasbrouck)
16. 11:54 AM - Re: Lower cowl air inlets (Marcus Cooper)
17. 02:05 PM - Re: Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits] (Jesse Saint)
18. 03:05 PM - Re: Cowl (gary)
19. 06:10 PM - HID lights (Rob Wright)
20. 07:12 PM - Re: HID lights (Tim Olson)
21. 07:35 PM - Re: HID lights (Rob Wright)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Spinner Gotcha TIP |
Looking at several RV 10 builder logs and final aircraft I was wondering
why so many chose to use round head screws in the spinner. I think I k
now now. IF you do not rivet your nutplates on the spinner back plate f
orward enough..........you do not have room on the aft of the spinner fo
r the #8 screw with Tinneman washer. The normal thought when mounting n
utplates to the spinner back plate is to CENTER the nutplate. However, i
f you do this you will not have enough spinner left for the hardware cal
led out. IF you just put in a round head #8 screw all is well ....but n
ow you have an ugly round head vs a FLUSH head. Another tip is drill ou
t a #6 Tinneman and use with a #8 flush screw on your Spinner IF you are
a little short on real estate on the aft of your spinner. Hope this he
lps those buliders who have yet to get to this part in the building proc
ess.
So next time you see a RV 10 with round head screws in the spinner......
.....will you ask the builder WHY he used those when almost the entire o
utside of the plane is put together with FLUSH style hardware? :) Ke
ep banging and sanding..........it really starts to look like a plane wi
th the motor and cowling mounted!!!!!
Dean
40449
________________________________________________________________________
<html><P>Looking at several RV 10 builder logs and final aircraft I was
wondering why so many chose to use round head screws in the spinner.&nbs
p; I think I know now. IF you do not rivet your nutplates on the s
pinner back plate forward enough..........you do not have room on the af
t of the spinner for the #8 screw with Tinneman washer. The normal
thought when mounting nutplates to the spinner back plate is to CENTER
the nutplate. However, if you do this you will not have enough spinner l
eft for the hardware called out. IF you just put in a round head #
8 screw all is well ....but now you have an ugly round head vs
a FLUSH head. Another tip is drill out a #6 Tinneman and use with
a #8 flush screw on your Spinner IF you are a little short on real esta
te on the aft of your spinner. Hope this helps those buliders who
have yet to get to this part in the building process.</P>
<P>So next time you see a RV 10 with round head screws in the spinner...
........will you ask the builder WHY he used those when almost the entir
e outside of the plane is put together with FLUSH style hardware?
:) Keep banging and sanding..........it really starts
to look like a plane with the motor and cowling mounted!!!!!</P>
<P>Dean</P>
<P>40449</P>
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Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Spinner Gotcha TIP |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Precisely, Dean. I considered flush screws, but that trailing edge
of the spinner just doesn't have enough length. I wasn't
comfortable with a countersunk hole with that little bit of
edge distance. Besides that, I just don't think it would have
been quite as easy to have a safely secured spinner with flush
screws without having another 1/4" back there. I'm sure it
might never break, but I just didn't have the confidence.
The round head screws leave you with less thinned out area
affected.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> Looking at several RV 10 builder logs and final aircraft I was wondering
> why so many chose to use round head screws in the spinner. I think I
> know now. IF you do not rivet your nutplates on the spinner back plate
> forward enough..........you do not have room on the aft of the spinner
> for the #8 screw with Tinneman washer. The normal thought when mounting
> nutplates to the spinner back plate is to CENTER the nutplate. However,
> if you do this you will not have enough spinner left for the hardware
> called out. IF you just put in a round head #8 screw all is well
> ....but now you have an ugly round head vs a FLUSH head. Another tip is
> drill out a #6 Tinneman and use with a #8 flush screw on your Spinner IF
> you are a little short on real estate on the aft of your spinner. Hope
> this helps those buliders who have yet to get to this part in the
> building process.
>
> So next time you see a RV 10 with round head screws in the
> spinner...........will you ask the builder WHY he used those when almost
> the entire outside of the plane is put together with FLUSH style
> hardware? :) Keep banging and sanding..........it really starts to
> look like a plane with the motor and cowling mounted!!!!!
>
> Dean
>
> 40449
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: When to order QB wings & Fuselage |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Van's will let you delay the order, but it would be best to tell them
upon order, delivery before Jan 7 or after March. Van's is very good at
hitting their promise date. The only time there are issues is when the
kits are first introduced. Then there are typically delays.
> If it doesn't come before Jan 7th, can I delay it to a set date such as March?
>
>
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Another source for tools that is not a popular in the RV community is
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Company <http://www.browntool.com/>. They do
have some good prices and free shipping on orders over $85. I got my
air drill, drill bits, yoke, countersinks, etc from them. Their "REX"
yokes are pre-drilled and tapped for use with a bench mount option.
Also there longeron and 4" yokes do not need any special adapters for
the adjustable set.
Larry
#356
Les Kearney wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
>
> Hi
>
> Someone who I trust a great deal and who has a great deal of experience
> doing major maintenance on heavy jets (my brother), suggested I look to the
> yard shop (www.yardstore.com)for tools.
>
> Their pricing seems quite a bit better than the Avery & Cleaveland.
> According to my brother who orders clecos 10 gross at a time, he has never
> had a problem with the tools he buys for his crews at the Yard Store.
>
> If you take the tool kit list from Avery / Cleaveland and price it using the
> Yard Store web site, you can save perhaps another 10%.
>
> Does anyone else have an opinion?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> RV Wannabe
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marc
> Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 8:05 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marc" <marchudson@comcast.net>
>
> Tom
>
> I purchased from Planetools and was very pleased. I had a problem with one
> of the tools and Shaun sent me one out immediately without me even sending
> the other one back. Very friendly and got a FREE pneumatic squeezer with my
> order :)
>
> Marc Hudson
> www.marcandkathy.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway
> Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 7:50 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
>
> I'm not trying to ignore the obvious but I am curious.
> Most posters recommend either Avery or Cleveland for the RV-10 tool kit with
> certain substitutions.
> I'm interested in the Isham Planetools package. Their tools all seem to be
> namebrand.
> One of the things that puzzles me is that they don't seem to be very
> straightforward with the physical location of their business or how to
> contact them other than the internet.
>
> Can anyone comment on their experience with Isham Planetools??
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom Hanaway
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63309#63309
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Spinner Gotcha TIP |
Dean, I'm going to guess why round-head screws. The spinner has to
endure some really nasty vibrations, and the counter-sunk screws really
don't have much to grip with. I like truss head screws for this
application (and just about anywhere else) for attaching sheet metal.
They have a little less profile and look less like a small frog sitting
on the surface!!! The downside of the truss head is that the
screwdriver will strip out easier so I use antisieze a lot.
But that's just a guess.
Linn
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> Looking at several RV 10 builder logs and final aircraft I was
> wondering why so many chose to use round head screws in the spinner.
> I think I know now. IF you do not rivet your nutplates on the spinner
> back plate forward enough..........you do not have room on the aft of
> the spinner for the #8 screw with Tinneman washer. The normal thought
> when mounting nutplates to the spinner back plate is to CENTER the
> nutplate. However, if you do this you will not have enough spinner
> left for the hardware called out. IF you just put in a round head #8
> screw all is well ....but now you have an ugly round head vs a FLUSH
> head. Another tip is drill out a #6 Tinneman and use with a #8 flush
> screw on your Spinner IF you are a little short on real estate on the
> aft of your spinner. Hope this helps those buliders who have yet to
> get to this part in the building process.
>
> So next time you see a RV 10 with round head screws in the
> spinner...........will you ask the builder WHY he used those when
> almost the entire outside of the plane is put together with FLUSH
> style hardware? :) Keep banging and sanding..........it really
> starts to look like a plane with the motor and cowling mounted!!!!!
>
> Dean
>
> 40449
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Lower cowl air inlets |
I am finishing up fitting my cowling and I had someone suggest that I
not install the air inlets on the bottom until after I'm flying. The
logic of this being that if I do my fly off and don't have a heat
problem then I could possible eliminated some drag. Does anyone have any
thoughts on this idea?
By the way I have installed the Skybolt cam locks on the cowling and
they really turned out great. I bought their RV10 kit and installed the
cam locks a tad over 3 inch's apart, based on talking to them, and I
came up about 9 cam locks short so I had to order a few more. I think
the 3 inch's is a good distance and turned out well.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Message 7
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| Subject: | Spinner Gotcha TIP |
I have #8 SS screws with drilled out #6 SS tinnerman washers on my 8A.
Works fine. I'll do the same on the 10.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (270 hrs)
RV-10 (tail cone - still)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 3:18 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Spinner Gotcha TIP
Looking at several RV 10 builder logs and final aircraft I was wondering
why so many chose to use round head screws in the spinner. I think I know
now. IF you do not rivet your nutplates on the spinner back plate forward
enough..........you do not have room on the aft of the spinner for the #8
screw with Tinneman washer. The normal thought when mounting nutplates to
the spinner back plate is to CENTER the nutplate. However, if you do this
you will not have enough spinner left for the hardware called out. IF you
just put in a round head #8 screw all is well ....but now you have an ugly
round head vs a FLUSH head. Another tip is drill out a #6 Tinneman and use
with a #8 flush screw on your Spinner IF you are a little short on real
estate on the aft of your spinner. Hope this helps those buliders who have
yet to get to this part in the building process.
So next time you see a RV 10 with round head screws in the
spinner...........will you ask the builder WHY he used those when almost the
entire outside of the plane is put together with FLUSH style hardware? :)
Keep banging and sanding..........it really starts to look like a plane with
the motor and cowling mounted!!!!!
Dean
40449
________________________________________________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I also got a couple things from the yard store and found them good to
deal with. I got my original kit from Avery but if I had to do it again
I would get it from Cleaveland or Planetools.
There were a few things in Avery's that were not really needed and his
double sided deburr tool has broke on me twice and isn't a very good
design. To top it off he kept insisting it was my fault even though the
deburr tip just popped off while I was using it both times. YMMV
Michael
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits] |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I bought my tool kit from Isham and am quite happy. Now I'm buying
other stuff from Avery and Cleaveland.
Per Larry's advice, if you follow his link to his tool writeup you'll
see Mike's (from Alexander Tech Center) very positive writeups on the
Avery and Cleaveland tool kits. By the time I met Mike, he seemed to
think that the Isham kit might be an equally good selection.
Especially because it included the DRDT-2 and a pnematic squeezer (free
so to speak). I spoke to Isahm about the '10 and he seemed to know how
many additional clecos were initially required, the additional bucking
bar needed for the HS, etc. It seemed to be a good deal for me. It
appears that Isham has some DRDT-2 inventory set aside for him and Mike
suggested if not buying the device from him, it might be best to go
directly to the manufacturer. Only complaint I have about Isham's kit
is the inclusion (dumping) of 2" wide rivet tape. I'll probably use it
to pad my rivet gun set.
For this newbie, everyone seems to be helpful and knowledgeable. Isham,
Avery and Cleaveland have all been a pleasure to deal with. Same with
the people at the Alexander Tech Center. The Vans folks seem a bit
quirky but hey, we're married now.
Bill in Durham
Skinning the HS and match drilling the elevator
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Wrong elevator counterweights shipped |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
For some reason, my kit included the wrong weights for the elevator
counter weights. The guys at Alexander's said they were RV9 rudder
weights, and too many of them at that.
After getting home and doing some measuring against the full size
drawing in the plans, I confirmed that they were wrong. Vans has since
sent the right ones.
I'm builder 40605. If you are nearby, you may want to double check your
weights against the drawings.
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Fuel for thought from the plastic boys |
Here is a mod that the Lancair guys have resorted to for fuel delivery
issues. Remember the human body has few hard 90 bends in a
cardio-vascular system. Air flow and fluid flow follow similar rules.
Think about this in induction air design, cowl airflow and fuel flow.
Just a couple more comments on the IV and ES fuel
system. The newer planes have 1/2" fuel lines and larger vent lines
running from the NACA scoops in the wingtips. Many of us have
simplified the routing of our fuel system to eliminate most or all of
the 90 degree fittings. Also, we have relocated our boost pumps to the
fuselage floor in the center at the firewall. I have 1/2" Aeroquip hose
running from a straight fitting on the wing all the way to a mandrel
bend 90 degree fitting on the fuel selector, no sharp 90s at all. I'm
not sure when the kits started shipping with the Andair fuel selector as
standard equipment, but I think it makes a difference too. Bottom line,
between the changes Lancair made (larger fuel lines and vents) and the
builder changes many of us have incorporated, the vapor suppression
problems are far less likely to occur. Especially at IO-550 fuel flows.
A couple ES guys who live in very hot climates have
experience vapor lock on climbout. One aircraft had been in a hangar
that had ambient temperatures exceeding 100 degrees for a couple days.
Another guy has had similar experiences flying out of a southern
California desert airport. Here in Colorado, we have cool night
temperatures, even with hot summer days. I tend to fly in the cool of
the morning too.
I take off, change tanks, land, and never turn on the
boost pump. I've never used my low boost pump, but that would be the
first thing I would do if I got any engine hesitation.
Mike Easley
Colorado Springs
Super ES
John - 40600
Do not Archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Detonation vs. PreIgnition |
My apologies to the guys getting this a second time after the
Aero-electric list, but many believe blending of Mogas and Avgas helps
the pocketbook and has no detrimental side effects. Hopefully Walter
will address this in a future Kitplanes article.
Good comments, Ron. Yes, the octane rating is a measure
of the resistance of the fuel/air mixture to auto-ignite, or ignite
without the presence of an open flame. It's a complex phenomenon and
autoignition is a function of time, pressure and temperature. The
rating methodology, developed by Ethyl Corporation way back when,
compares the resistance to auto-ignition of the test fuel to mixtures of
normal heptane to iso-octane. The octane number is the percentage of
iso-octane in the mix that behaves like the test fuel (80-octane fuel
behaves like a a mixture of 20% n-heptane and 80% iso-octane). Since
the actual test is really done by measuring the BMEP of a test engine,
numbers over 100 are possible - 110-octane fuel will allow the test
engine to operate at 110% of the BMEP allowed by iso-octane(not exactly
correct, but close enough). The method isn't exact and if the test
engine is operated at different temperatures and loads the observed
octane number comes out differently. Running at light load creates an
octane rating called the "research octane" number and running at high
temperature/high load produces a number called "motor octane". The law
says the average octane rating of an automotive fuel must be displayed
on the pump and that's why it says (R+M)/2 on the pump. Aviation fuel,
because engines are usually operated under conditions more like the the
motor method, are typically rated by the motor method - I believe 100LL
is more correctly called 100/120 (100 motor octane and 120 research
octane). That's why some of the past-history fuels were called 110/130
etc.
When the fuel is ignited by an open flame front there is
little difference in flame speed between high octane and low octane
fuel: Flame speed is NOT the primary difference between the fuels.
Detonation is auto-ignition of the "end gases" late in the combustion
process. Because of combustion in the cylinder the end gases(the
portion of the charge furthest from the ignition source) are compressed
to very high pressures, which because of the gas law PV=NRT, raises
their temperature. They will only remain unburned for a limited time
and if the flame front doesn't arrive soon enough, igniting them
progressively, they will auto-ignite all at once, "exploding." This
will cause all sorts of problems, but will not usually result in
immediate engine failure.
As Ron correctly described below, "pre-ignition" is
simply ignition of the fuel charge before the spark occurs. Because the
charge burns and raises the pressure before the piston fully compresses
the charge the temperature and pressure can go to extremely high levels,
causing major damage very quickly. For example (George Braly would have
the real numbers) normal compression (no ignition) pressure might be
350psi, combustion results in pressures of 800 to 1,000 psi and
pre-ignition could result in pressures up to 2,000 psi. Pre-ignition
can (likely) result from pre-ignition because of the extremely high
pressure and temperature of the end gases. One thing that isn't usually
thought about is the rate of heat transfer from a gas to the cylinder,
which is proportional to the velocity, temperature difference AND
PRESSURE of the gas. Double the pressure and double the temperature and
the heat transfer will go up by a factor of 4. Detonation results in
sonic shock waves traveling through the combustion chamber, which means
locally the hot gases are moving at sonic velocity. Much of the damage
from both detonation and pre-ignition is caused by the extremely high
heat transfer rates, not just the pressure. Detonation under high loads
can increase the local heat transfer rate to the point that after a
short time a component (edge of the exhaust valve, carbon deposit, etc)
can be heated to the point it causes pre-ignition. This has sometimes
been referred to as "runaway detonation."
I hope from the above description you get the idea that
detonation and pre-ignition can be a real horror story for the engine.
The best thing is to maintain a healthy detonation margin. In general,
detonation is suppressed by increasing the octane rating, lowering the
compression ratio, retarding the ignition timing, lowering the inlet
temperature and pressure, lowering the cylinder head temperature,
increasing turbulence and reducing the distance from the spark plug to
the end gases(by running on both plugs). And you can dilute the charge
by adding water, excess fuel or excess air (run LOP). As you can see,
most of these things will reduce the power output of the engine and
therein lies the conundrum. For a standard unmodified aircraft engine
the worst operating case would be a takeoff from Death Valley on a dry,
115-degree day with the carb heat left on, mixture leaned and one of the
mags inoperative. As I recall it is just those conditions that the FAA
requires to be demonstrated for a certified engine.
Sorry about the excessively long non-electric
dissertation.
Gary Casey
Know what actions or inactions you can take to keep your Detonation
Margins in a safe range. When you increase the piston C/R you are
moving closer to No Margin. The big boys at Reno lean into the wind
with a runway/desert always immediately below them.
John - 40600
Do not Archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: When to order QB wings & Fuselage |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
If you delay you may lose the locked-in price. This is what I was told in
early '06
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Van's will let you delay the order, but it would be best to tell them
upon order, delivery before Jan 7 or after March. Van's is very good at
hitting their promise date. The only time there are issues is when the
kits are first introduced. Then there are typically delays.
> If it doesn't come before Jan 7th, can I delay it to a set date such as
> March?
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits] |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
This is a good point to ask the group in a group query. Which specific
bucking bars are your most favorites, did they come in whose kit and
which specialty bars do you recommend adding for the RV-10 newbies that
have been recently asking?
Back in the days of James McClow (I know, I still miss his webcam) and
Tim's early pursuits, this was mentioned and has fallen by silent times.
Scott Schmidt had some great Tool pics in his early days. Isn't
everyone's shop, dog, wife, bike, home, hangar and bicycle as nice?
There goes that Lusting again Jesse.
I buy lots of stuff from the Yard, they are more reasonable than Avery.
Brown for hard to get stuff cause they are more expensive. 10-20% can
be saved by comparison shopping between the top six vendors and their
periodic sales. The brand new 4X Cleco gun (limited quantity at Brown)
is considered the Rolls Royce at work. The trigger will allow a simple
tap, a gentle 1X hit all the way up to a 4X slap and everything between.
They are so desired most guys buy reconditioned in the $200-300 range.
I run a Deutsch 2X and a cheapo US Tool 4X with their TP176 kit which
was 25% off at OSH on a daily special.
John -40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Maule Driver
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 8:34 AM
Subject: [Re: RV10-List: Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits]
--> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I bought my tool kit from Isham and am quite happy. Now I'm buying
other stuff from Avery and Cleaveland.
Per Larry's advice, if you follow his link to his tool writeup you'll
see Mike's (from Alexander Tech Center) very positive writeups on the
Avery and Cleaveland tool kits. By the time I met Mike, he seemed to
think that the Isham kit might be an equally good selection.
Especially because it included the DRDT-2 and a pnematic squeezer (free
so to speak). I spoke to Isahm about the '10 and he seemed to know how
many additional clecos were initially required, the additional bucking
bar needed for the HS, etc. It seemed to be a good deal for me. It
appears that Isham has some DRDT-2 inventory set aside for him and Mike
suggested if not buying the device from him, it might be best to go
directly to the manufacturer. Only complaint I have about Isham's kit
is the inclusion (dumping) of 2" wide rivet tape. I'll probably use it
to pad my rivet gun set.
For this newbie, everyone seems to be helpful and knowledgeable. Isham,
Avery and Cleaveland have all been a pleasure to deal with. Same with
the people at the Alexander Tech Center. The Vans folks seem a bit
quirky but hey, we're married now.
Bill in Durham
Skinning the HS and match drilling the elevator
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Wrong elevator counterweights shipped |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
That's interesting! I'm builder #40264 and received my emp. kit in 2004.
It also had the wrong elevator counterweights. When I talked to Van's back
then with the dimensions they couldn't figure out where they came from.
They suggested I cut and drill them to fit but I fianlly had the right ones
sent. Cutting and drilling through lead is no fun at all. Another potential
trouble spot is in the wing kit with the aileron brackets. The W1013C-L
didn't line up with its counterpart. The rivet holes were okay but the
bearing recess was off about 1/32". This should be corrected by now but if
you bought the slo-build wings in the 2005 time frame and have been sitting
on them, check this out. With all the parts in these kits an occasional
glitch can be expected. Overall they do a great job.
John Hasbrouck
#40264 fuse.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Lower cowl air inlets |
Wayne,
Probably the safest option is to talk to the folks at Van's, however
since there have been a number of threads about too much heat I'd recommend
making the inlets. One individual even made larger inlets. Based on the
numerous threads I seriously doubt you'll end up not having wished they were
there, not to mention new engines tend to run hotter anyway and you will
want all the help you can get cooling it off. A safer option would be to
make the cuts and then close them back off at a controlled progression in an
effort to save drag but not compromise cooling. (Hmm, this answer took a
lot longer than it should have - sorry)
Marcus
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 9:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowl air inlets
I am finishing up fitting my cowling and I had someone suggest that I not
install the air inlets on the bottom until after I'm flying. The logic of
this being that if I do my fly off and don't have a heat problem then I
could possible eliminated some drag. Does anyone have any thoughts on this
idea?
By the way I have installed the Skybolt cam locks on the cowling and they
really turned out great. I bought their RV10 kit and installed the cam locks
a tad over 3 inch's apart, based on talking to them, and I came up about 9
cam locks short so I had to order a few more. I think the 3 inch's is a good
distance and turned out well.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Message 17
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| Subject: | Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits] |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
While we are on the tools issue, I have to say that the quick-change kit
that Cleaveland sells is the best investment we have made in tools. Just
wish they had a base for a #19, but we just got the threaded base and a
threaded #19 and it works fine. No more messing with a chuck, and if you
need something special, just pop in the keyless chuck with the quick-change
base and you are good to go. That kit with a Sioux drill is awesome to work
with. Oh, did I mention that without the chuck, you can get in narrower
places without your chuck scraping the sides of stuff that is in the way.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 1:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits]
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
This is a good point to ask the group in a group query. Which specific
bucking bars are your most favorites, did they come in whose kit and
which specialty bars do you recommend adding for the RV-10 newbies that
have been recently asking?
Back in the days of James McClow (I know, I still miss his webcam) and
Tim's early pursuits, this was mentioned and has fallen by silent times.
Scott Schmidt had some great Tool pics in his early days. Isn't
everyone's shop, dog, wife, bike, home, hangar and bicycle as nice?
There goes that Lusting again Jesse.
I buy lots of stuff from the Yard, they are more reasonable than Avery.
Brown for hard to get stuff cause they are more expensive. 10-20% can
be saved by comparison shopping between the top six vendors and their
periodic sales. The brand new 4X Cleco gun (limited quantity at Brown)
is considered the Rolls Royce at work. The trigger will allow a simple
tap, a gentle 1X hit all the way up to a 4X slap and everything between.
They are so desired most guys buy reconditioned in the $200-300 range.
I run a Deutsch 2X and a cheapo US Tool 4X with their TP176 kit which
was 25% off at OSH on a daily special.
John -40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Maule Driver
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 8:34 AM
Subject: [Re: RV10-List: Isham Planetools for RV-10 kits]
--> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I bought my tool kit from Isham and am quite happy. Now I'm buying
other stuff from Avery and Cleaveland.
Per Larry's advice, if you follow his link to his tool writeup you'll
see Mike's (from Alexander Tech Center) very positive writeups on the
Avery and Cleaveland tool kits. By the time I met Mike, he seemed to
think that the Isham kit might be an equally good selection.
Especially because it included the DRDT-2 and a pnematic squeezer (free
so to speak). I spoke to Isahm about the '10 and he seemed to know how
many additional clecos were initially required, the additional bucking
bar needed for the HS, etc. It seemed to be a good deal for me. It
appears that Isham has some DRDT-2 inventory set aside for him and Mike
suggested if not buying the device from him, it might be best to go
directly to the manufacturer. Only complaint I have about Isham's kit
is the inclusion (dumping) of 2" wide rivet tape. I'll probably use it
to pad my rivet gun set.
For this newbie, everyone seems to be helpful and knowledgeable. Isham,
Avery and Cleaveland have all been a pleasure to deal with. Same with
the people at the Alexander Tech Center. The Vans folks seem a bit
quirky but hey, we're married now.
Bill in Durham
Skinning the HS and match drilling the elevator
--
--
Message 18
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I have photos of my cowl for the cold air induction. Unfortunately I am not
very good with this stuff so I need you to go to the following link to see
them.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/brendadawg/album?.dir=/eb64re2&.src=ph&.tok=ph
CuCjFB4K34TJwB
Gary
40274
Message 19
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Tim and others with DW installed,
Do the DW lights light up well enough for you? My original idea was to use
the DW for ldg and the Van's ldg light kit for taxi. I'm at a point that I
can forego the Vans kit but would like some field research on how well the
DW lights do with one pointed for ldg and one pointed for taxi.
Rob Wright
#392
Wingtips
Message 20
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Well, this might not be exactly what you're looking for but....
I've got 2 Duckworks HID's. From the time that I've installed them,
I haven't gotten around to properly aiming them. Right now they
are way too low, maybe 30' in front of the plane or so...not
what you'd necessarily want for night landings. But here's the
big "however". HOWEVER, with those HID's, even with them so
mis-aimed that they really shouldn't be too good, they are so
darn bright that they are much better than my old plane that
had 2 100W halogen standard aviation lamps in it, or the single
250W that it originally had. One of these days I'll get around
to aiming them a bit further forward, and based on what I'm seeing
now, I think it will really be impressive. I'm not really one
who cares for separate landing and taxi lights, but I think if
you aimed one for taxi, it will still be plenty of help for
landing. The coolest part about the HIDs isn't even the
brightness....it's the fact that my ammeter only goes up by
6A when both are lit up!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Rob Wright wrote:
> Tim and others with DW installed,
>
>
>
> Do the DW lights light up well enough for you? My original idea was to
> use the DW for ldg and the Vans ldg light kit for taxi. Im at a point
> that I can forego the Vans kit but would like some field research on how
> well the DW lights do with one pointed for ldg and one pointed for taxi.
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392
>
> Wingtips
>
Message 21
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
Thanks.
Do not archive
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID lights
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Well, this might not be exactly what you're looking for but....
I've got 2 Duckworks HID's. From the time that I've installed them,
I haven't gotten around to properly aiming them. Right now they
are way too low, maybe 30' in front of the plane or so...not
what you'd necessarily want for night landings. But here's the
big "however". HOWEVER, with those HID's, even with them so
mis-aimed that they really shouldn't be too good, they are so
darn bright that they are much better than my old plane that
had 2 100W halogen standard aviation lamps in it, or the single
250W that it originally had. One of these days I'll get around
to aiming them a bit further forward, and based on what I'm seeing
now, I think it will really be impressive. I'm not really one
who cares for separate landing and taxi lights, but I think if
you aimed one for taxi, it will still be plenty of help for
landing. The coolest part about the HIDs isn't even the
brightness....it's the fact that my ammeter only goes up by
6A when both are lit up!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Rob Wright wrote:
> Tim and others with DW installed,
>
>
>
> Do the DW lights light up well enough for you? My original idea was to
> use the DW for ldg and the Van's ldg light kit for taxi. I'm at a point
> that I can forego the Vans kit but would like some field research on how
> well the DW lights do with one pointed for ldg and one pointed for taxi.
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392
>
> Wingtips
>
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