Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:39 AM - pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill (tomhanaway)
2. 06:10 AM - Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill (Stovall Todd Lt Col AF/A4RX)
3. 07:26 AM - Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill (John Jessen)
4. 07:44 AM - Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill (Russell Daves)
5. 08:14 AM - Electric Aileron Trim (Maule Driver)
6. 08:14 AM - Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill (John Gonzalez)
7. 08:34 AM - Re: Electric Aileron Trim (Rick)
8. 08:48 AM - Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill (John Gonzalez)
9. 09:06 AM - Re: Electric Aileron Trim (Vern W. Smith)
10. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: Clecoing nose of VS (Vern W. Smith)
11. 10:06 AM - Bottom wing skins (Vern W. Smith)
12. 10:07 AM - Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill (tomhanaway)
13. 10:09 AM - Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill (Rick)
14. 11:01 AM - FW: [LML] Lancair driver make the AVWEB news (John W. Cox)
15. 11:59 AM - Re: Electric Aileron Trim (Rob Kermanj)
16. 12:22 PM - Re: Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill (John Jessen)
17. 01:25 PM - Re: FW: [LML] Lancair driver make the AVWEB news (Deems Davis)
18. 01:42 PM - Re: Re: Clecoing nose of VS (Deems Davis)
19. 02:15 PM - Re: Re: Clecoing nose of VS (Rene Felker)
20. 02:22 PM - Re: Electric Aileron Trim (Marcus Cooper)
21. 02:38 PM - Re: Re: Clecoing nose of VS (Vern W. Smith)
22. 02:46 PM - Re: FW: [LML] Lancair driver make the AVWEB news (John W. Cox)
23. 08:51 PM - Re: Electric Aileron Trim (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
Empennage ordered but not here yet so don't have instructions. Are most drilled
holes two-part. I.e., 1/8" pilot(0.125) then #30(0.1285)final and 3/32pilot(0.0938)
then #40(0.0980)final.
The reason I ask is deciding which burraway drill bits to get. Will the #30 and
40 size do? Or is most of the deburring done off the smaller pilot hole, if
both pilot and final are necessary?
I'd obviously prefer to buy only two bits if possible rather than four.
Separately, I do follow the ebay sales but other than the .093, most of the sizes
are larger than needed for the Van's kit.
Empennage should arrive early next week.
Thanks in advance,
Tom Hanaway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66903#66903
Message 2
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| Subject: | pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Stovall Todd Lt Col AF/A4RX <Todd.Stovall@pentagon.af.mil>
Tom,
On the RV-10 VS you pre-drill the 1/8 holes on the rear spar with a 1/8 bit
first and then final drill with a #30. For the 3/32 holes, Van's has you go
straight to final drill with a #40, no pre-drilling identified that I have
seen yet.
Todd
#40631
RV-10 Emp
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: tomhanaway [mailto:tomhanaway@adelphia.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 8:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill
--> RV10-List message posted by: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
Empennage ordered but not here yet so don't have instructions. Are most
drilled holes two-part. I.e., 1/8" pilot(0.125) then #30(0.1285)final and
3/32pilot(0.0938) then #40(0.0980)final.
The reason I ask is deciding which burraway drill bits to get. Will the #30
and 40 size do? Or is most of the deburring done off the smaller pilot
hole, if both pilot and final are necessary?
I'd obviously prefer to buy only two bits if possible rather than four.
Separately, I do follow the ebay sales but other than the .093, most of the
sizes are larger than needed for the Van's kit.
Empennage should arrive early next week.
Thanks in advance,
Tom Hanaway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66903#66903
Message 3
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| Subject: | pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
#30 and #40 Cogsdill are all you need. Make sure you have the standard
deburring tools from an Avery or Cleveland. Many places you'll want those
over the Cogsdill.
John Jessen
#328 (riveting tailcone)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill
--> RV10-List message posted by: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
Empennage ordered but not here yet so don't have instructions. Are most
drilled holes two-part. I.e., 1/8" pilot(0.125) then #30(0.1285)final and
3/32pilot(0.0938) then #40(0.0980)final.
The reason I ask is deciding which burraway drill bits to get. Will the #30
and 40 size do? Or is most of the deburring done off the smaller pilot
hole, if both pilot and final are necessary?
I'd obviously prefer to buy only two bits if possible rather than four.
Separately, I do follow the ebay sales but other than the .093, most of the
sizes are larger than needed for the Van's kit.
Empennage should arrive early next week.
Thanks in advance,
Tom Hanaway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66903#66903
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
In addition to drill bits (buy at least 5 of each) you should also get #30
and #40 reamers. The reamers are my first choice in doing the initial/final
drilling of pre-punched holes. I have never used the burraway drill bits
but didn't find a real problem with deburring after using a reamer.
In addition, instead of "match drilling" pre-punched holes I would advise
first hitting all of the pre-punched holes with either the #30 or #40 reamer
and debur before putting them together the first time. I found on the VS
that it was real difficult to cleco the parts together but after using the
reamers and deburring first all my parts cleco'd together much easier. By
the time I reached the HS I had stopped match drilling anything that was
pre-punched and didn't do it again all the way to the end of my build.
Not only does it save loads of time but I found the holes lined up much
better and I had fewer drilling errors than I was having with match drilling
the pre-punched holes, many of which the tabs would push down with the drill
bit and I couldn't tell that they had been mis-drilled until after I took
them apart for deburr.
I did find on occasion when I was riveting that I had to go back and run the
reamer through the cleco'd holes sometimes to get the rivet to set like I
wanted it to set. Using the reamer at the point in drilling I didn't feel
any significant areas around the holes that caused me any deburring concerns
since the holes had already been reamed, de-burred, countersunk and the
slight trim caused by another run of the reamer didn't seem to be a problem.
Good luck with your project, I had a wonderful time doing my 33 month build
(even had three major surgeries during such 33 months and lost about 8
months of build time).
Russ Daves
N710RV - Flying RV-10
See everyone at LOE 2006 this weekend
----- Original Message -----
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 7:38 AM
Subject: RV10-List: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
>
> Empennage ordered but not here yet so don't have instructions. Are most
> drilled holes two-part. I.e., 1/8" pilot(0.125) then #30(0.1285)final and
> 3/32pilot(0.0938) then #40(0.0980)final.
>
> The reason I ask is deciding which burraway drill bits to get. Will the
> #30 and 40 size do? Or is most of the deburring done off the smaller
> pilot hole, if both pilot and final are necessary?
>
> I'd obviously prefer to buy only two bits if possible rather than four.
> Separately, I do follow the ebay sales but other than the .093, most of
> the sizes are larger than needed for the Van's kit.
>
> Empennage should arrive early next week.
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom Hanaway
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66903#66903
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Electric Aileron Trim |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I'm getting ready to order my Fuse and Wing kit. Are any of you
installing Van's electric trim? What are your thoughts on it?
Given Van's bias towards 'less', I'm guessing there is a good reason for
making the trim option available.
Message 6
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| Subject: | pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Tom,
If I were you I would order the drill bits from Cleaveland or Avery, the
entire set of standard fractional bits and the entire set of numbered bits.
The inherent problem is that you will need a bit which you do not have and
then it stops the entire build process until the bit arrives in the mail.
This can happen a lot of times. It gets frustrating. You get the point!
Also, when it comes to drilling out rivets a good set of undersize bits is
wonderful to have to prevent the chance of adverse hole enlargement.
Get used to biting the bullet, the correct tools make all the difference.
John G. 409
Do Not Archive
>From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill
>Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 05:38:40 -0700
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
>
>Empennage ordered but not here yet so don't have instructions. Are most
>drilled holes two-part. I.e., 1/8" pilot(0.125) then #30(0.1285)final and
>3/32pilot(0.0938) then #40(0.0980)final.
>
>The reason I ask is deciding which burraway drill bits to get. Will the
>#30 and 40 size do? Or is most of the deburring done off the smaller pilot
>hole, if both pilot and final are necessary?
>
>I'd obviously prefer to buy only two bits if possible rather than four.
>Separately, I do follow the ebay sales but other than the .093, most of the
>sizes are larger than needed for the Van's kit.
>
>Empennage should arrive early next week.
>Thanks in advance,
>Tom Hanaway
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66903#66903
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I'm installing it. I think most builders are as well if for anything it helps with
fuel imbalance trim. Plus it gives the left and right funtions of the hat
switch something to work on ;)
It's pretty simple and you can wait for awhile to install it. Mounts on the inner
most access plate on the bottom of the wing. Ray Allen trim wire comes with
the kit. It's the #24/5 wire that Spruce and Ray Allen both sell. Servo has an
arm the connects to the aileron pushrod via two springs.
Rick S.
40185
-----Original Message-----
>From: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 8:13 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Electric Aileron Trim
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
>I'm getting ready to order my Fuse and Wing kit. Are any of you
>installing Van's electric trim? What are your thoughts on it?
>
>Given Van's bias towards 'less', I'm guessing there is a good reason for
>making the trim option available.
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Russel,
Having almost finished the entire tail assembly, as I am now doing
fiberglass work, with the new experience I have gained, I have no idea of
what you are advocating. I am not trying to be disrespectful, just would
like to understand what it is you are saying.
"In addition, instead of "match drilling" pre-punched holes I would advise
first hitting all of the pre-punched holes with either the #30 or #40 reamer
and debur before putting them together the first time. I found on the VS
that it was real difficult to cleco the parts together but after using the
reamers and deburring first all my parts cleco'd together much easier. By
the time I reached the HS I had stopped match drilling anything that was
pre-punched and didn't do it again all the way to the end of my build."
"Not only does it save loads of time but I found the holes lined up much
better and I had fewer drilling errors than I was having with match drilling
the pre-punched holes, many of which the tabs would push down with the drill
bit and I couldn't tell that they had been mis-drilled until after I took
them apart for deburr. In addition, instead of "match drilling" pre-punched
holes I would advise first hitting all of the pre-punched holes with either
the #30 or #40 reamer and debur before putting them together the first time.
I found on the VS that it was real difficult to cleco the parts together
but after using the reamers and deburring first all my parts cleco'd
together much easier. By the time I reached the HS I had stopped match
drilling anything that was pre-punched and didn't do it again all the way to
the end of my build."
My thoughts.....The only place I had difficulty getting prepunched holes to
line up was during the assembly of the rudder, as the control horn of the
rudder had a slightly larger bend raduis than it should have. This pushed
the rudder spar away from the skin holes. It all worked out, especially when
you use an ice pick to line up holes before cecoing them. The ice pick is
one of those "Must Have Tools" Use a lot of clecoes during the drilling, the
more the merrier.
JOhn G. 409
>From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill
>Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 09:43:28 -0500
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>
>In addition to drill bits (buy at least 5 of each) you should also get #30
>and #40 reamers. The reamers are my first choice in doing the
>initial/final drilling of pre-punched holes. I have never used the
>burraway drill bits but didn't find a real problem with deburring after
>using a reamer.
>
>In addition, instead of "match drilling" pre-punched holes I would advise
>first hitting all of the pre-punched holes with either the #30 or #40
>reamer and debur before putting them together the first time. I found on
>the VS that it was real difficult to cleco the parts together but after
>using the reamers and deburring first all my parts cleco'd together much
>easier. By the time I reached the HS I had stopped match drilling
>anything that was pre-punched and didn't do it again all the way to the end
>of my build.
>
>Not only does it save loads of time but I found the holes lined up much
>better and I had fewer drilling errors than I was having with match
>drilling the pre-punched holes, many of which the tabs would push down with
>the drill bit and I couldn't tell that they had been mis-drilled until
>after I took them apart for deburr.
>
>I did find on occasion when I was riveting that I had to go back and run
>the reamer through the cleco'd holes sometimes to get the rivet to set like
>I wanted it to set. Using the reamer at the point in drilling I didn't
>feel any significant areas around the holes that caused me any deburring
>concerns since the holes had already been reamed, de-burred, countersunk
>and the slight trim caused by another run of the reamer didn't seem to be a
>problem.
>
>Good luck with your project, I had a wonderful time doing my 33 month build
>(even had three major surgeries during such 33 months and lost about 8
>months of build time).
>
>Russ Daves
>N710RV - Flying RV-10
>See everyone at LOE 2006 this weekend
>----- Original Message ----- From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 7:38 AM
>Subject: RV10-List: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
>>
>>Empennage ordered but not here yet so don't have instructions. Are most
>>drilled holes two-part. I.e., 1/8" pilot(0.125) then #30(0.1285)final and
>>3/32pilot(0.0938) then #40(0.0980)final.
>>
>>The reason I ask is deciding which burraway drill bits to get. Will the
>>#30 and 40 size do? Or is most of the deburring done off the smaller
>>pilot hole, if both pilot and final are necessary?
>>
>>I'd obviously prefer to buy only two bits if possible rather than four.
>>Separately, I do follow the ebay sales but other than the .093, most of
>>the sizes are larger than needed for the Van's kit.
>>
>>Empennage should arrive early next week.
>>Thanks in advance,
>>Tom Hanaway
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66903#66903
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Electric Aileron Trim |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
Hi Maule,
I am installing the aileron trim and this came after conversations with
both Trutrak and Van's. The reason for it is as fuel is burned off of
one tank the wing gets lighter. If you are using an autopilot this will
compensate for this condition until you turn the auto pilot off and then
the heavier wing will tend to drop.
How much of a problem this is I don't know. The Mooney I used to fly had
an auto wing leveler that was basically always on. In addition to this
we switched tank every 1/2 hour so the weight difference between the
wings was only 30 lbs. max. It would be interesting to get feedback from
those flying, as to what they have notice in trim from fuel burn.
Vern (40324)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Maule Driver
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Electric Aileron Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I'm getting ready to order my Fuse and Wing kit. Are any of you
installing Van's electric trim? What are your thoughts on it?
Given Van's bias towards 'less', I'm guessing there is a good reason for
making the trim option available.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Clecoing nose of VS |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
John,
If it makes you feel any better Van's factory planes have VS bumps.
Vern
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 4:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Clecoing nose of VS
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
<johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Amen! You guys have to promise me you'll never notice by VS "bumps".
John
[quote="bsponcil(at)belinblank.or"]Tight nose ribs seems to be a common
affliction in the Vans kits. My VS (along with many others) has a skin
dent from my not knowing. I have since been a little more aggressive
with the deburring wheel when it comes to the nose ribs and it's worked
out better.
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
> ---
--------
#40572 Empennage HS
N711JG reserved
Message 11
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| Subject: | Bottom wing skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
Just read the discussion on the fuel tanks/bottom wing skins. The local
EAA tech consoler suggested wearing a long sleeve shirt during the
riveting of the bottom skins. I must say, this does help.
Also, I supported the wings vertically with the trailing edge pointed
down. This allowed me to reach down inside to buck the rivet as opposed
to reaching up under the skins if the leading edge was down. The
ergonomics seem a little better and I was able to reach all of the
rivets by myself.
Vern Smith (#324)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
Just to clarify. I do have a complete tool kit coming from Cleveland with some
optionals coming from Avery, Brown and Planetool.
As to the #30 and #40 debur, Cogsdill doesn't make them. They do have the 1/8
and 3/32" bits
E-z burr has a #40 debur size.
I guess my question should have been clearer. Do the 1/8 and 3/32 deburr sizes
work effectively with the slightly larger #30 and #40 holes.
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66963#66963
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
John,
In a nutshell this came up about a year ago. What some builders were doing including
my friend & fellow builder here in Las Vegas was to predrill (ream), deburr
and dimple then final assemble before ever clecoing together an assembly.
In theory it sounds good and it seemed to work well for Russ & Bob. I found it
much easier to understand the correct way things went together by clecoing, drilling
then disassemble deburr...the conventional way most build. It has drawbacks.....the
fuselage has several areas that need holes drilled in assembly and
if you miss them after you have it partially riveted then you may find yourself
drilling out some rivets or trying to complete what was a simple step now
almost impossible to do because it is assembled. I always considered the cleco
then drill the equivalent of "measuring twice and cutting once" I didn't really
find it all that much faster and I know all my holes have been properly deburred
and I didn't have any problems by having to go
backwards and disassemble anything.
Rick S.
40185
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 8:47 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Russel,
>
>Having almost finished the entire tail assembly, as I am now doing
>fiberglass work, with the new experience I have gained, I have no idea of
>what you are advocating. I am not trying to be disrespectful, just would
>like to understand what it is you are saying.
>
>"In addition, instead of "match drilling" pre-punched holes I would advise
>first hitting all of the pre-punched holes with either the #30 or #40 reamer
>and debur before putting them together the first time. I found on the VS
>that it was real difficult to cleco the parts together but after using the
>reamers and deburring first all my parts cleco'd together much easier. By
>the time I reached the HS I had stopped match drilling anything that was
>pre-punched and didn't do it again all the way to the end of my build."
>
>"Not only does it save loads of time but I found the holes lined up much
>better and I had fewer drilling errors than I was having with match drilling
>the pre-punched holes, many of which the tabs would push down with the drill
>bit and I couldn't tell that they had been mis-drilled until after I took
>them apart for deburr. In addition, instead of "match drilling" pre-punched
>holes I would advise first hitting all of the pre-punched holes with either
>the #30 or #40 reamer and debur before putting them together the first time.
> I found on the VS that it was real difficult to cleco the parts together
>but after using the reamers and deburring first all my parts cleco'd
>together much easier. By the time I reached the HS I had stopped match
>drilling anything that was pre-punched and didn't do it again all the way to
>the end of my build."
>
>My thoughts.....The only place I had difficulty getting prepunched holes to
>line up was during the assembly of the rudder, as the control horn of the
>rudder had a slightly larger bend raduis than it should have. This pushed
>the rudder spar away from the skin holes. It all worked out, especially when
>you use an ice pick to line up holes before cecoing them. The ice pick is
>one of those "Must Have Tools" Use a lot of clecoes during the drilling, the
>more the merrier.
>
>JOhn G. 409
>
>
>>From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill
>>Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 09:43:28 -0500
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>>
>>In addition to drill bits (buy at least 5 of each) you should also get #30
>>and #40 reamers. The reamers are my first choice in doing the
>>initial/final drilling of pre-punched holes. I have never used the
>>burraway drill bits but didn't find a real problem with deburring after
>>using a reamer.
>>
>>In addition, instead of "match drilling" pre-punched holes I would advise
>>first hitting all of the pre-punched holes with either the #30 or #40
>>reamer and debur before putting them together the first time. I found on
>>the VS that it was real difficult to cleco the parts together but after
>>using the reamers and deburring first all my parts cleco'd together much
>>easier. By the time I reached the HS I had stopped match drilling
>>anything that was pre-punched and didn't do it again all the way to the end
>>of my build.
>>
>>Not only does it save loads of time but I found the holes lined up much
>>better and I had fewer drilling errors than I was having with match
>>drilling the pre-punched holes, many of which the tabs would push down with
>>the drill bit and I couldn't tell that they had been mis-drilled until
>>after I took them apart for deburr.
>>
>>I did find on occasion when I was riveting that I had to go back and run
>>the reamer through the cleco'd holes sometimes to get the rivet to set like
>>I wanted it to set. Using the reamer at the point in drilling I didn't
>>feel any significant areas around the holes that caused me any deburring
>>concerns since the holes had already been reamed, de-burred, countersunk
>>and the slight trim caused by another run of the reamer didn't seem to be a
>>problem.
>>
>>Good luck with your project, I had a wonderful time doing my 33 month build
>>(even had three major surgeries during such 33 months and lost about 8
>>months of build time).
>>
>>Russ Daves
>>N710RV - Flying RV-10
>>See everyone at LOE 2006 this weekend
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 7:38 AM
>>Subject: RV10-List: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
>>>
>>>Empennage ordered but not here yet so don't have instructions. Are most
>>>drilled holes two-part. I.e., 1/8" pilot(0.125) then #30(0.1285)final and
>>>3/32pilot(0.0938) then #40(0.0980)final.
>>>
>>>The reason I ask is deciding which burraway drill bits to get. Will the
>>>#30 and 40 size do? Or is most of the deburring done off the smaller
>>>pilot hole, if both pilot and final are necessary?
>>>
>>>I'd obviously prefer to buy only two bits if possible rather than four.
>>>Separately, I do follow the ebay sales but other than the .093, most of
>>>the sizes are larger than needed for the Van's kit.
>>>
>>>Empennage should arrive early next week.
>>>Thanks in advance,
>>>Tom Hanaway
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66903#66903
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | FW: [LML] Lancair driver make the AVWEB news |
As the weather makes its annual pilgrimage South this time of year.
Visions of a trip to OSH '07 begin to dance in my head. This story
reminds me of the unnecessary loss of life the last few years and how a
few bad apples get most of the press. I am still patiently waiting for
Scott to post the last thirty days of construction progress.
John Cox
N49CX RV-10 in process
________________________________
From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of
N320GG
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 9:00 AM
Subject: [LML] Lancair driver make the AVWEB news
"A Lancair pilot flew the published warbird arrival rather than the
general aviation arrival. He was followed to parking and interviewed.
His arrogance astonished the volunteer who spoke with him; it seems that
the pilot was of the opinion that because he flew a fast airplane he
could use the warbird arrival and the EAA volunteer who had the temerity
to express a dissenting opinion could go to where it is reputed to be
extremely warm for eternity. "
For all of the story:
http://www.avweb.com/news/pilotlounge/193321-1.html
For a link to the audio mentioned:
http://www.oshawapilot.ca/?p=342
Gary Melton
N320GG LNC2
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim |
I have the aileron trim and I find it necessary for fuel and
passanger imbalance. I do not seem to need any adjustment if Trutrak
is engaged.
Rob Kermanj
On Oct 10, 2006, at 12:05 PM, Vern W. Smith wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
>
> Hi Maule,
>
> I am installing the aileron trim and this came after conversations
> with
> both Trutrak and Van's. The reason for it is as fuel is burned off of
> one tank the wing gets lighter. If you are using an autopilot this
> will
> compensate for this condition until you turn the auto pilot off and
> then
> the heavier wing will tend to drop.
>
> How much of a problem this is I don't know. The Mooney I used to
> fly had
> an auto wing leveler that was basically always on. In addition to this
> we switched tank every 1/2 hour so the weight difference between the
> wings was only 30 lbs. max. It would be interesting to get feedback
> from
> those flying, as to what they have notice in trim from fuel burn.
>
> Vern (40324)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Maule
> Driver
> Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 8:14 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Electric Aileron Trim
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I'm getting ready to order my Fuse and Wing kit. Are any of you
> installing Van's electric trim? What are your thoughts on it?
>
> Given Van's bias towards 'less', I'm guessing there is a good
> reason for
>
> making the trim option available.
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Yes.
John J
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 10:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: pilot vs. final holes and cogsdill
--> RV10-List message posted by: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@adelphia.net>
Just to clarify. I do have a complete tool kit coming from Cleveland with
some optionals coming from Avery, Brown and Planetool.
As to the #30 and #40 debur, Cogsdill doesn't make them. They do have the
1/8 and 3/32" bits E-z burr has a #40 debur size.
I guess my question should have been clearer. Do the 1/8 and 3/32 deburr
sizes work effectively with the slightly larger #30 and #40 holes.
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=66963#66963
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: FW: [LML] Lancair driver make the AVWEB news |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
On VAF Scott posted a msg indicating that he had completed his DAR
inspection and was awaiting someone to do a pitot/static check before
flying.
Deems Davis # 406
Panel/Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/
John W. Cox wrote:
> As the weather makes its annual pilgrimage South this time of year.
> Visions of a trip to OSH 07 begin to dance in my head. This story
> reminds me of the unnecessary loss of life the last few years and how
> a few bad apples get most of the press. I am still patiently waiting
> for Scott to post the last thirty days of construction progress.
>
> John Cox
>
> N49CX RV-10 in process
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] *On Behalf
> Of *N320GG
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 10, 2006 9:00 AM
> *To:* Lancair Mailing List
> *Subject:* [LML] Lancair driver make the AVWEB news
>
> "A Lancair pilot flew the published warbird arrival rather than the
> general aviation arrival. He was followed to parking and interviewed.
> His arrogance astonished the volunteer who spoke with him; it seems
> that the pilot was of the opinion that because he flew a fast airplane
> he could use the warbird arrival and the EAA volunteer who had the
> temerity to express a dissenting opinion could go to where it is
> reputed to be extremely warm for eternity. "
>
> For all of the story:
>
> http://www.avweb.com/news/pilotlounge/193321-1.html
>
> For a link to the audio mentioned:
>
> http://www.oshawapilot.ca/?p=342
>
> Gary Melton
>
> N320GG LNC2
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Clecoing nose of VS |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
So did both of the '05 Colorado OSH award winners.
Deems Davis # 406
Panel/Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/
Vern W. Smith wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
>
>John,
>
>If it makes you feel any better Van's factory planes have VS bumps.
>
>Vern
>
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
>Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 4:10 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Clecoing nose of VS
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
><johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>Amen! You guys have to promise me you'll never notice by VS "bumps".
>John
>
>[quote="bsponcil(at)belinblank.or"]Tight nose ribs seems to be a common
>affliction in the Vans kits. My VS (along with many others) has a skin
>dent from my not knowing. I have since been a little more aggressive
>with the deburring wheel when it comes to the nose ribs and it's worked
>out better.
>
>
> -Brian
>
> #40497
> N211BD
> Iowa City, IA
>
>
>
>
>> ---
>>
>>
>
>
>--------
>#40572 Empennage HS
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Clecoing nose of VS |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
So, it looks like I did mine correctly......with dents.
Rene' Felker
40322
Panel/finish and a lot inbetween
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Clecoing nose of VS
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
So did both of the '05 Colorado OSH award winners.
Deems Davis # 406
Panel/Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/
Vern W. Smith wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
>
>John,
>
>If it makes you feel any better Van's factory planes have VS bumps.
>
>Vern
>
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
>Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 4:10 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Clecoing nose of VS
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
><johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>Amen! You guys have to promise me you'll never notice by VS "bumps".
>John
>
>[quote="bsponcil(at)belinblank.or"]Tight nose ribs seems to be a common
>affliction in the Vans kits. My VS (along with many others) has a skin
>dent from my not knowing. I have since been a little more aggressive
>with the deburring wheel when it comes to the nose ribs and it's worked
>out better.
>
>
> -Brian
>
> #40497
> N211BD
> Iowa City, IA
>
>
>
>
>> ---
>>
>>
>
>
>--------
>#40572 Empennage HS
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Electric Aileron Trim |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I'm probably a minority, but I opted not to get the aileron trim "yet" for
budget reasons. I have about 60 hours on the airplane and it really hasn't
been an issue. I can tell if I've fed from one tank too long as it takes a
little side pressure, but that goes away fairly quickly after switching
tanks and is non-existent if I switch after level off and then every 30
minutes on schedule. Of course the Tru-trak makes quick work of the whole
issue.
My thoughts, it would be nice to have, but not a show stopper by any means
and you could always add it later if required. Of course it's always easier
to put something like that in while in the building process rather than wait
until later.
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Maule Driver
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 11:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Electric Aileron Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I'm getting ready to order my Fuse and Wing kit. Are any of you
installing Van's electric trim? What are your thoughts on it?
Given Van's bias towards 'less', I'm guessing there is a good reason for
making the trim option available.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Clecoing nose of VS |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
Their like dimples on a golf ball they make it fly better:)
Sorry just couldn't resist,
Vern (#324)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 2:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Clecoing nose of VS
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
So, it looks like I did mine correctly......with dents.
Rene' Felker
40322
Panel/finish and a lot inbetween
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Clecoing nose of VS
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
So did both of the '05 Colorado OSH award winners.
Deems Davis # 406
Panel/Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | FW: [LML] Lancair driver make the AVWEB news |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Then he must have abandoned the faithful who have watched patiently for
pictures of his progress.
John Cox #600
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: [LML] Lancair driver make the AVWEB news
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
On VAF Scott posted a msg indicating that he had completed his DAR
inspection and was awaiting someone to do a pitot/static check before
flying.
Deems Davis # 406
Panel/Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/
John W. Cox wrote:
> As the weather makes its annual pilgrimage South this time of year.
> Visions of a trip to OSH '07 begin to dance in my head. This story
> reminds me of the unnecessary loss of life the last few years and how
> a few bad apples get most of the press. I am still patiently waiting
> for Scott to post the last thirty days of construction progress.
>
> John Cox
>
> N49CX RV-10 in process
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] *On Behalf
> Of *N320GG
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 10, 2006 9:00 AM
> *To:* Lancair Mailing List
> *Subject:* [LML] Lancair driver make the AVWEB news
>
> "A Lancair pilot flew the published warbird arrival rather than the
> general aviation arrival. He was followed to parking and interviewed.
> His arrogance astonished the volunteer who spoke with him; it seems
> that the pilot was of the opinion that because he flew a fast airplane
> he could use the warbird arrival and the EAA volunteer who had the
> temerity to express a dissenting opinion could go to where it is
> reputed to be extremely warm for eternity. "
>
> For all of the story:
>
> http://www.avweb.com/news/pilotlounge/193321-1.html
>
> For a link to the audio mentioned:
>
> http://www.oshawapilot.ca/?p=342
>
> Gary Melton
>
> N320GG LNC2
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Electric Aileron Trim |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Have you spent much time with 4 seats full yet? I find the
aileron trim a must depending on who's filling my seats
and how we pack them in. there are times i wouldn't want
to be without it, and times when I have no need for it.
But, I would recommend it to everyone as worthwhile.
Tim
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I'm probably a minority, but I opted not to get the aileron trim "yet" for
> budget reasons. I have about 60 hours on the airplane and it really
> hasn't
> been an issue. I can tell if I've fed from one tank too long as it takes
> a
> little side pressure, but that goes away fairly quickly after switching
> tanks and is non-existent if I switch after level off and then every 30
> minutes on schedule. Of course the Tru-trak makes quick work of the whole
> issue.
>
> My thoughts, it would be nice to have, but not a show stopper by any means
> and you could always add it later if required. Of course it's always
> easier
> to put something like that in while in the building process rather than
> wait
> until later.
>
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Maule Driver
> Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 11:14 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Electric Aileron Trim
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Maule Driver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I'm getting ready to order my Fuse and Wing kit. Are any of you
> installing Van's electric trim? What are your thoughts on it?
>
> Given Van's bias towards 'less', I'm guessing there is a good reason for
> making the trim option available.
>
>
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