Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:32 AM - Re: Dual Lightspeed? (Werner Schneider)
2. 06:36 AM - Re: Dual Lightspeed? (W. Curtis)
3. 08:44 AM - (Indran Chelvanayagam)
4. 10:25 AM - Re: Dual Lightspeed? (Rob Kermanj)
5. 03:03 PM - Safety Wire questions (jdalton77)
6. 03:40 PM - Re: Safety Wire questions (David McNeill)
7. 04:50 PM - Re: (John W. Cox)
8. 04:56 PM - FW: [LML] Reno 2006 Story (John W. Cox)
9. 05:20 PM - Re: Re: Dual Lightspeed? (Kelly McMullen)
10. 05:33 PM - What Wire for Wiring? (James Hein)
11. 05:38 PM - Accidents in RVs (John W. Cox)
12. 05:42 PM - Re: What Wire for Wiring? (Rene)
13. 06:00 PM - Re: Safety Wire questions (Marcus Cooper)
14. 06:10 PM - Re: Re: Dual Lightspeed? (John W. Cox)
15. 06:10 PM - Re: What Wire for Wiring? (Tim Olson)
16. 07:55 PM - Re: What Wire for Wiring? (John W. Cox)
17. 09:22 PM - Fw: What Wire for Wiring? (David McNeill)
18. 09:27 PM - What Wire for Wiring? (David McNeill)
19. 10:05 PM - Re: What Wire for Wiring? (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Dual Lightspeed? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
Hi Chris,
> In theory, I suppose that you could also run much leaner without
> roughness, because you can advance the timing to a point that you will
> still achieve a complete burn (or more complete I should say) of the
> fuel charge. Again, in theory, you could lean and lean and lean, and
> advance (with manual control) and advance and advance, and get a very
> low fuel burn.
>
I can confirm, that with my Lasar setup I can run lean of peak to such
an extend, that if a go a fractional turn further, my engine just stops
and the control is maybe 2-5 mm from the maximum movement when that
happened, so I see quite low fuel flow around 6.2-6.5 gal (O-320) during
cruise with 23/2300.
br Werner
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: Dual Lightspeed? |
>The phrase Optimum is a mis-leader in that it is the better of a poor
>trade off. PRISM will address this need for a changing advanced spark
>curve. One of the vulnerabilities of Mags is they are Primeval - Brain
>Dead simple and reliable at a single setting throughout a range of
>performance requirements.
John,
Don't tell me that you have been drinking the GAMI kool-aid. Since 1998 when I
first acquired the Cardinal, GAMI has been touting PRISM and bad mouthing every
other competitor product (FADEC, Lightspeed, LASAR, etc). Almost ten years
later, they still don't have a product. I'll wager that in 2010 PRISM will
still NOT be available. If and when it does become available it will NOT be cost
competitive and the performance gain will be marginal-if any.
As for their balanced injectors, they are a waste of money for Lycoming engines-even
if you plan to run LOP. The tolerances on the stock Lycoming injectors are
much better now. In 2004 I had a Factory Reman IO-360 installed and Im able
to run smooth significantly LOP with the stock injectors. It's always funny
to see those owners who insist on GAMI injectors for their Lycoming engines that
have no intention to run LOP. BIG waste of money. Those Advanced Pilot Seminars
are ensuring a loyal following of kool-aid drinkers and a constant revenue
stream to GAMI.
Personally, I plan to go with one Lightspeed and one mag. Would have preferred
a dual P-Mag setup if it was available.
William Curtis
http://nerv10.com/
Message 3
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Any RV-10 builders (or their planes) going to the SAAA fly-in in Wagga next
weekend? We should get together for a beer or three!
I'd also love to see the turbocharged -10 that Ron mentioned a few days ago.
Indran
#40228
WOW Fri/Sat
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Dual Lightspeed? |
Br Werner, can you tell about your Lasar set up? How long have you
had it and how reliable is it? Pros/Cons? Can you describe the
installation?
Thanks
Do not archive
Rob
On Oct 21, 2006, at 5:32 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
>
> Hi Chris,
>
>> In theory, I suppose that you could also run much leaner without
>> roughness, because you can advance the timing to a point that you
>> will still achieve a complete burn (or more complete I should say)
>> of the fuel charge. Again, in theory, you could lean and lean and
>> lean, and advance (with manual control) and advance and advance,
>> and get a very low fuel burn.
> I can confirm, that with my Lasar setup I can run lean of peak to
> such an extend, that if a go a fractional turn further, my engine
> just stops and the control is maybe 2-5 mm from the maximum
> movement when that happened, so I see quite low fuel flow around
> 6.2-6.5 gal (O-320) during cruise with 23/2300.
>
> br Werner
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Safety Wire questions |
I'm just wrapping up the tailcone attached (chapter 11) and have not
seen too many places where the instructions call out safety wire (I
think only on the elevator hinges). I expected to be safety wiring the
bolts that hold on the HS and VS. What about on "A" bolts that don't
have holes? Should I be safety wiring "everything" or only when the
manual says so?
Jeff
45-something
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Safety Wire questions |
Use the hardware called. In many cases it will be locknuts with nylon
inserts or high temp locknuts. The only place I will be substituting is
on the engine mount. Most callouts there are castellated nuts and cotter
pins, I will instead be using high temp metal locknuts (used on
certified airplanes).
----- Original Message -----
From: jdalton77
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 3:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Safety Wire questions
I'm just wrapping up the tailcone attached (chapter 11) and have not
seen too many places where the instructions call out safety wire (I
think only on the elevator hinges). I expected to be safety wiring the
bolts that hold on the HS and VS. What about on "A" bolts that don't
have holes? Should I be safety wiring "everything" or only when the
manual says so?
Jeff
45-something
Message 7
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If you see it, please post more information cause I think the pursuit is
worthy of group discussion. My interest is whether they used an
inter-cooler and how they dealt with the factory cowl.
John #40600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran
Chelvanayagam
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List:
Any RV-10 builders (or their planes) going to the SAAA fly-in in Wagga
next weekend? We should get together for a beer or three!
I'd also love to see the turbocharged -10 that Ron mentioned a few days
ago.
Indran
#40228
WOW Fri/Sat
Message 8
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| Subject: | FW: [LML] Reno 2006 Story |
High octane avgas thrown on the fire of Hot Rodding. With the
discussion of the Superior 400, I thought I would keep the flames of
engine alternatives alive by sharing this post from the boys who do it a
lot.
John Cox - flame suit ON
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of
Scotty G
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 11:09 AM
Subject: [LML] Reno 2006 Story
Hi Gang,
If you're interested, my Reno 2006 story about racing and the Superior
XP-400 is up on the Unleashed site.
http://unleashedairracing.com/articles/superiorreno06.html
Enjoy.
Scotty G
UnleashedAirRacing.com
SeptemberPops.com
WarbirdAeroPress.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Dual Lightspeed? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
Well, you know what happens when you make universal statements. I know
lots of IO-360s that won't run LOP, some that will, with stock
injectors, my own included. However the TSIO540 used in the Mooney
TLS/Bravo flat will not run LOP on the vast majority of those engines.
It, by the way is a parallel valve 540, a distant cousin to what most
folks are putting in the RV10. With GAMIs and an otherwise healthy
engine, it will run LOP, up to certain power/TIT limits, but generally
will not generate 75% LOP within those temp limits.
While I can go to 70 LOP or so with my IO-360, I am certain it would
run smoother LOP with GAMIs than it does without. Sounds like you have
been drinking the factory Kool-Aid.
TCM offers the same flavor Kool-Aid, and a few of their tuned intake
engines are okay LOP but virtually all can have tighter mixture
spreads. What the OEMs seem to miss, is that it isn't having
identical injectors that is the goal, it is having all cylinders reach
peak EGT at as close to the same fuel flow as possible, and unless all
cylinders flow identical amounts of air through the power range, you
won't achieve that with identical flowing injectors.
On 10/21/06, W. Curtis <wcurtis@core.com> wrote:
> >The phrase Optimum is a mis-leader in that it is the better of a poor
> >trade off. PRISM will address this need for a changing advanced spark
> >curve. One of the vulnerabilities of Mags is they are Primeval - Brain
> >Dead simple and reliable at a single setting throughout a range of
> >performance requirements.
>
> John,
>
> Don't tell me that you have been drinking the GAMI kool-aid. Since 1998
> when I first acquired the Cardinal, GAMI has been touting PRISM and bad
> mouthing every other competitor product (FADEC, Lightspeed, LASAR, etc).
> Almost ten years later, they still don't have a product. I'll wager that in
> 2010 PRISM will still NOT be available. If and when it does become available
> it will NOT be cost competitive and the performance gain will be marginal-if
> any.
>
> As for their balanced injectors, they are a waste of money for Lycoming
> engines-even if you plan to run LOP. The tolerances on the stock Lycoming
> injectors are much better now. In 2004 I had a Factory Reman IO-360
> installed and I'm able to run smooth significantly LOP with the stock
> injectors. It's always funny to see those owners who insist on GAMI
> injectors for their Lycoming engines that have no intention to run LOP. BIG
> waste of money. Those Advanced Pilot Seminars are ensuring a loyal following
> of kool-aid drinkers and a constant revenue stream to GAMI.
>
> Personally, I plan to go with one Lightspeed and one mag. Would have
> preferred a dual P-Mag setup if it was available.
> William Curtis
> http://nerv10.com/
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | What Wire for Wiring? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hey Y'all!
What type of wire should I use for wiring? Teflon? Tefzel? Tin
coated copper? silver coated copper?
I looked at wiremasters.net, and it appears that for 14ga. Tefzel, the
length is 1,200ft. I'm quite sure I don't need THAT much, especially in
only one color. (What am I doing wrong?)
Also, does anyone have an initial "shopping list" of wire that you
bought to start off with? Would you mind sharing it?
-Jim 40384, deburring bottom wing skins
Message 11
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| Subject: | Accidents in RVs |
Simon Bromily just posted an excellent clip today on the RVs in Aus site
from over on Yahoo. This is an excerpt from the Latest RV Builder's
Hotline (October 21st) that I encourage all of you to read, study and
begin meaningful discussion. That is the value of Matt's site isn't it.
As a Designated Pilot Examiner for 23 years and an Accident Safety
Specialist for 16 of those, this issue is real and is well reported. A
theory that Average Rich Guy can buy a Hot Rod kitbuilt or recent TC
certified aircraft then rapidly skew the statistical pool. The resultant
statistical skew lends merit on the need for intensive and repetitive,
tailored instruction from "Make and Model" qualified Instructors. To
ignore such a pursuit, can tilt insurance costs the direction of wiping
out a large percentage of the kit building community - before they are
finished.
The leading article is "A look at RV accident information" by Bob
Collins.
Thanks Simon, in my haste I figured it was stuff I could just gloss
over.
John Cox #40600
Message 12
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| Subject: | What Wire for Wiring? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene" <rene@felker.com>
I ordered mine by foot from Stein.
http://www.steinair.com/
Rene'
40322
N423CF
Finish Kit and a lot more.......
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 6:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: What Wire for Wiring?
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hey Y'all!
What type of wire should I use for wiring? Teflon? Tefzel? Tin
coated copper? silver coated copper?
I looked at wiremasters.net, and it appears that for 14ga. Tefzel, the
length is 1,200ft. I'm quite sure I don't need THAT much, especially in
only one color. (What am I doing wrong?)
Also, does anyone have an initial "shopping list" of wire that you
bought to start off with? Would you mind sharing it?
-Jim 40384, deburring bottom wing skins
Message 13
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| Subject: | Safety Wire questions |
Jeff,
The only hardware I changed was on the elevator and rudder hinge points.
I read on the list about a recommendation to use castle nuts and cotter pins
vice the locknuts due to the movement of the hinges. Seemed like a good
idea, but obviously not required.
Marcus
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Safety Wire questions
Use the hardware called. In many cases it will be locknuts with nylon
inserts or high temp locknuts. The only place I will be substituting is on
the engine mount. Most callouts there are castellated nuts and cotter pins,
I will instead be using high temp metal locknuts (used on certified
airplanes).
----- Original Message -----
From: jdalton77 <mailto:jdalton77@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 3:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Safety Wire questions
I'm just wrapping up the tailcone attached (chapter 11) and have not seen
too many places where the instructions call out safety wire (I think only on
the elevator hinges). I expected to be safety wiring the bolts that hold on
the HS and VS. What about on "A" bolts that don't have holes? Should I be
safety wiring "everything" or only when the manual says so?
Jeff
45-something
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 14
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| Subject: | RE: Dual Lightspeed? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Kelly, thank you. My point which is clearly now lost, was that Hot
Rodding (a topic I love) supports (does not demand) matched flow
cylinder heads, tuned Barrett "Style" induction and Forsling "Style"
tune exhaust with a balanced to within 0.5 gram component build engine,
mounted inside a NON factory pressure capturing high pressure composite
plenum with LoPresti low drag induction ports. If you go that far, then
use of changing timing advance for the ever changing input in F/A
density, temperature, humidity, rpm and prop loading is desirable. IMHO
I do not espouse PRISM as a specific product, but since I run a John
Conforti Land Shark performance chip in my stealth M5 BMW and
occasionally stay at a Holiday Inn, I can appreciate deviating off the
conservative path of a factory recommended build and capture the
additional power and performance of an enhanced and modified spark
curve. PRISM (in concept) does exactly that. A MAG is safe, reliable and
proven technology which does not yield to such desires. For those less
desirous of pursuing improvement, then the primitively simple Mag (or
two) does quite well. A Mag and one Lightspeed does even better.
The phrase Kool Aid is often used by those seeking to enflame and
polarize discussion. For those less foolish, let's elevate the
discussion so people seeking a product selection do so meaningfully.
I am a conservative, safety desirous, hot rodder who does not believe
they are mutually incompatible. I acknowledge that VAN is trying to
level the insurance actuarial tables by KISS, keeping it simple stupid
and play by the book. His premise is sound. Low insurance rates and
pilot longevity are mutually compatible.
Now does anyone want to question the statement that Dual Lightspeeds do
not produce the same power output of two Magnetos at cruise rpm on a
dynamometer? I want power, I want it on demand and I want it reliably.
Just trying to answer the question awkwardly above of evaluating Dual
Lightspeeds. Sorry to all of you that are not interested. Now back to
my Kool aid drinking evening while I wait for my P mag to arrive.
John Cox - 40600
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Dual Lightspeed?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
Well, you know what happens when you make universal statements. I know
lots of IO-360s that won't run LOP, some that will, with stock
injectors, my own included. However the TSIO540 used in the Mooney
TLS/Bravo flat will not run LOP on the vast majority of those engines.
It, by the way is a parallel valve 540, a distant cousin to what most
folks are putting in the RV10. With GAMIs and an otherwise healthy
engine, it will run LOP, up to certain power/TIT limits, but generally
will not generate 75% LOP within those temp limits.
While I can go to 70 LOP or so with my IO-360, I am certain it would
run smoother LOP with GAMIs than it does without. Sounds like you have
been drinking the factory Kool-Aid.
TCM offers the same flavor Kool-Aid, and a few of their tuned intake
engines are okay LOP but virtually all can have tighter mixture
spreads. What the OEMs seem to miss, is that it isn't having
identical injectors that is the goal, it is having all cylinders reach
peak EGT at as close to the same fuel flow as possible, and unless all
cylinders flow identical amounts of air through the power range, you
won't achieve that with identical flowing injectors.
On 10/21/06, W. Curtis <wcurtis@core.com> wrote:
> >The phrase Optimum is a mis-leader in that it is the better of a poor
> >trade off. PRISM will address this need for a changing advanced
spark
> >curve. One of the vulnerabilities of Mags is they are Primeval -
Brain
> >Dead simple and reliable at a single setting throughout a range of
> >performance requirements.
>
> John,
>
> Don't tell me that you have been drinking the GAMI kool-aid. Since
1998
> when I first acquired the Cardinal, GAMI has been touting PRISM and
bad
> mouthing every other competitor product (FADEC, Lightspeed, LASAR,
etc).
> Almost ten years later, they still don't have a product. I'll wager
that in
> 2010 PRISM will still NOT be available. If and when it does become
available
> it will NOT be cost competitive and the performance gain will be
marginal-if
> any.
>
> As for their balanced injectors, they are a waste of money for
Lycoming
> engines-even if you plan to run LOP. The tolerances on the stock
Lycoming
> injectors are much better now. In 2004 I had a Factory Reman IO-360
> installed and I'm able to run smooth significantly LOP with the stock
> injectors. It's always funny to see those owners who insist on GAMI
> injectors for their Lycoming engines that have no intention to run
LOP. BIG
> waste of money. Those Advanced Pilot Seminars are ensuring a loyal
following
> of kool-aid drinkers and a constant revenue stream to GAMI.
>
> Personally, I plan to go with one Lightspeed and one mag. Would have
> preferred a dual P-Mag setup if it was available.
> William Curtis
> http://nerv10.com/
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: What Wire for Wiring? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
For most things, Tefzel. Also, wiremasters.net will send you whatever
lengths you want (at least they did for me). Buy extra, it's cheap.
Your needs will vary greatly if you are going to wire your own
panel. Plan ahead, and determine loads for things like landing
lights and such, and add up all of the different wire lengths
you'll plan to run to each area of the airplane. Don't be afraid to
order an extra 100 or 200' of the most common sizes or even some
of the others. You'll find wiremasters has great prices, and if you
run short after your initial order and needs small quantities from
some other place, you'll find the price much higher...so better to
spend it initially with good planning..
Tim
do not archive
James Hein wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
> Hey Y'all!
>
> What type of wire should I use for wiring? Teflon? Tefzel? Tin coated
> copper? silver coated copper?
> I looked at wiremasters.net, and it appears that for 14ga. Tefzel, the
> length is 1,200ft. I'm quite sure I don't need THAT much, especially in
> only one color. (What am I doing wrong?)
>
> Also, does anyone have an initial "shopping list" of wire that you
> bought to start off with? Would you mind sharing it?
>
> -Jim 40384, deburring bottom wing skins
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | What Wire for Wiring? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
James, If you decide on the full spool, let me know your surplus. I am
getting a passion for used tools, and supplies. I think there is a
market. One of our mechanics at work used to be a Snap-On dealer and is
unloading $20,000 of left over product.
The question will be is that Snap-On retail pricing or dealer cost. I
will post if the prices are reasonable.
Your wire pursuit interests me. Continue the hunt.
John Cox 40600
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 5:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: What Wire for Wiring?
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hey Y'all!
What type of wire should I use for wiring? Teflon? Tefzel? Tin
coated copper? silver coated copper?
I looked at wiremasters.net, and it appears that for 14ga. Tefzel, the
length is 1,200ft. I'm quite sure I don't need THAT much, especially in
only one color. (What am I doing wrong?)
Also, does anyone have an initial "shopping list" of wire that you
bought to start off with? Would you mind sharing it?
-Jim 40384, deburring bottom wing skins
Message 17
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| Subject: | What Wire for Wiring? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> For the guy who originally asked the wiring question.......
>
> You should try and standardize on a few sizes and buy that in quantity of
> 100 ft or 500 ft spools. Obviously you will need no more than 20 ft of 002
> for the starter to battery contactors. The aircraft mechanics handbook
> which
> is a good reference for a lot of subjects, has diagrams for the load
> carrying capabilities of the various sizes in free air and in conduits.
> You
> want to be able to carry at least 300A in the starter circuit.
>
> I bought 3 sizes besides the 002; they were 8, 14,20 . These were standard
> aircraft wiring. I also bought several short spools of size 22 shielded
> pairs, triplets and quads. These come in handy when you want to reduce the
> chance of RFI in things like magnetometers, digital lines to servos,etc.
> you
> will also probably need to buy a 50-100 ft piece of RG400 for the
> antennas.
>
> Another consideration is segregating the digital lines from the heavy DC
> or
> pulsating DC where possible. For example in my aircraft the starter wiring
> passes through the left side of the aircraft, while the trim, AP servo
> harness, GADAHRS harness, magnetometer, OAT circuits are down the right
> side.
>
> Another consideration is switchable breakers for operating the appliances
> and pullable breakers for all other items. A little more expensive but
> simple because every appliance has its own bus position. Bus bars can be
> made from copper strips purchased from Aircraft Spruce. They are .5" x
> .125"
> x 24". Buy drilling holes at regular intervals along the copper bar a very
> low resistance distribution of bus voltage is achieved.
>
> I tried the picture and it did not come through, email
> me directly if you want a picture.
>
>> Do not Archive
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
>> Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 5:32 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: What Wire for Wiring?
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>>
>> Hey Y'all!
>>
>> What type of wire should I use for wiring? Teflon? Tefzel? Tin
>> coated copper? silver coated copper?
>> I looked at wiremasters.net, and it appears that for 14ga. Tefzel, the
>> length is 1,200ft. I'm quite sure I don't need THAT much, especially in
>> only one color. (What am I doing wrong?)
>>
>> Also, does anyone have an initial "shopping list" of wire that you
>> bought to start off with? Would you mind sharing it?
>>
>> -Jim 40384, deburring bottom wing skins
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | What Wire for Wiring? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
For the guy who originally asked the wiring question.......
You should try and standardize on a few sizes and buy that in quantity of
100 ft or 500 ft spools. Obviously you will need no more than 20 ft of 002
for the starter to battery contactors. The aircraft mechanics handbook
whichis a good reference for a lot of subjects, has diagrams for the load
>> carrying capabilities of the various sizes in free air and in conduits.
>> You
>> want to be able to carry at least 300A in the starter circuit.
>>
>> I bought 3 sizes besides the 002; they were 8, 14,20 . These were
>> standard
>> aircraft wiring. I also bought several short spools of size 22 shielded
>> pairs, triplets and quads. These come in handy when you want to reduce
>> the
>> chance of RFI in things like magnetometers, digital lines to servos,etc.
>> you
>> will also probably need to buy a 50-100 ft piece of RG400 for the
>> antennas.
>>
>> Another consideration is segregating the digital lines from the heavy DC
>> or
>> pulsating DC where possible. For example in my aircraft the starter
>> wiring
>> passes through the left side of the aircraft, while the trim, AP servo
>> harness, GADAHRS harness, magnetometer, OAT circuits are down the right
>> side.
>>
>> Another consideration is switchable breakers for operating the appliances
>> and pullable breakers for all other items. A little more expensive but
>> simple because every appliance has its own bus position. Bus bars can be
>> made from copper strips purchased from Aircraft Spruce. They are .5" x
>> .125"
>> x 24". Buy drilling holes at regular intervals along the copper bar a
>> very
>> low resistance distribution of bus voltage is achieved.
>>
>> I tried the picture and it did not come through, email
>> me directly if you want a picture.
>>
>>> Do not Archive
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
>>> Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 5:32 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: What Wire for Wiring?
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>>>
>>> Hey Y'all!
>>>
>>> What type of wire should I use for wiring? Teflon? Tefzel? Tin
>>> coated copper? silver coated copper?
>>> I looked at wiremasters.net, and it appears that for 14ga. Tefzel, the
>>> length is 1,200ft. I'm quite sure I don't need THAT much, especially in
>>> only one color. (What am I doing wrong?)
>>>
>>> Also, does anyone have an initial "shopping list" of wire that you
>>> bought to start off with? Would you mind sharing it?
>>>
>>> -Jim 40384, deburring bottom wing skins
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | What Wire for Wiring? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi James,
Stick with the standard M22759/16 Tefzel wire...don't bother with teflon,
silver plated, etc...or surplus stuff (you never know what you're getting).
Also, if you spend more than a few hours "hunting" for a deal, you've just
wasted enough time to buy what you want and what you need brand new.
Depending on what you're doing with the plane and panel, buy at least the
following initially:
200' AWG22
200' AWG18
150' AWG16
50' AWG20
50' AWG14
25' AWG12
25' AWG10
100' RG-400 Coax
a dozen male BNC's, a half dozen female BNC's, a couple hundred PIDG ring
terminals, and some heatshrink.
Now, depending on if you want colors or not you can split all that up. The
above wiring amounts could vary pretty significantly depending on if you're
wiring your own panel or not, whether you're going full boat on lighting,
radios, IFR/VFR, etc.. I wouldn't waste my time buying whole spools then
trying to sell the surplus. Heck, wire is relatively cheap, we're talking
about something that costs pennies per foot...you'll only spend a couple/few
hundred bucks of wire total. Why waste your time goofing
around.......figure out what you need, what colors you want and just buy it.
As someone who regularly buys wire in 10,000' - 20,000' spools and keeps
over a half million feet of wire "hanging around", I can tell you playing
with spools to save a few percent is a waste of time on an item like this,
for one airplane. With your Avionics or engine it's a different story
because you can save a lot of dough, but in the wiring it's such a cheap
item to begin with that it's not worth much effort to save a buck.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 7:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: What Wire for Wiring?
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hey Y'all!
What type of wire should I use for wiring? Teflon? Tefzel? Tin
coated copper? silver coated copper?
I looked at wiremasters.net, and it appears that for 14ga. Tefzel, the
length is 1,200ft. I'm quite sure I don't need THAT much, especially in
only one color. (What am I doing wrong?)
Also, does anyone have an initial "shopping list" of wire that you
bought to start off with? Would you mind sharing it?
-Jim 40384, deburring bottom wing skins
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