RV10-List Digest Archive

Tue 10/24/06


Total Messages Posted: 27



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:49 AM - Re: FW: [LML] Hope, Denial, Money and Bullshit (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
     2. 07:03 AM - Re: Dual Lightspeed? (Werner Schneider)
     3. 07:09 AM - Re: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection (Jesse Saint)
     4. 08:07 AM - Re: Dual Lightspeed? (Rob Kermanj)
     5. 08:37 AM - Fuselage Conduit Support (Nikolaos Napoli)
     6. 08:59 AM - FW: Dual Lightspeed? (BPA)
     7. 09:42 AM - Re: Accidents in RVs (ivo welch)
     8. 09:55 AM - Re: Re: engines (Chris Johnston)
     9. 09:59 AM - Re: Fuselage Conduit Support (Larry Rosen)
    10. 11:27 AM - Re: Fuselage Conduit Support (John Hasbrouck)
    11. 12:10 PM - Re: Fuselage Conduit Support (Jesse Saint)
    12. 12:15 PM - Re: Re: engines (Jesse Saint)
    13. 12:41 PM - Just a test - Junk mail (Nikolaos Napoli)
    14. 04:24 PM - Fw: Fuselage Conduit Support (John Hasbrouck)
    15. 06:04 PM - Re: Dual Lightspeed? (John W. Cox)
    16. 06:30 PM - Re: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection (Bill Schlatterer)
    17. 06:35 PM - Re: Fuselage Conduit Support (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
    18. 06:43 PM - Re: Fuselage Conduit Support (John W. Cox)
    19. 06:58 PM - Re: Accidents in RVs (Bob Collins)
    20. 07:17 PM - Re: Fuselage Conduit Support (John W. Cox)
    21. 07:27 PM - Re: Re: Accidents in RVs (John W. Cox)
    22. 08:20 PM - Re: Fuselage Conduit Support (Paul Grimstad)
    23. 08:21 PM - Re: Fuselage Conduit Support (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
    24. 09:01 PM - Re: Accidents in RVs (Bob Collins)
    25. 09:02 PM - Re: Fuselage Conduit Support (Tim Olson)
    26. 09:04 PM - Re: Fuselage Conduit Support (David McNeill)
    27. 09:24 PM - Denso plugs for Lightspeed ignition (Tim Olson)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:49:47 AM PST US
    Subject: FW: [LML] Hope, Denial, Money and Bullshit
    From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
    Here is where I just purchased it, he is going to wonder what caused the huge increase in sales, ain't the internet a wonderful thing.....now if we can just all read it and understand it! http://speedwitheconomy.com/ Dan 40269 (N289DT) RV10E _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 10:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: FW: [LML] Hope, Denial, Money and Bullshit My apologies to the world wide group but Fred's post below is just too good not to share in the spirit of improved knowledge. Can anyone here agree to the value of data like Tim and Michael present? Or is it just a bunch of Lurkers from OSH? I am going to Google "Speed with Economy". If it is available from Technical Books, then all the better. What say the rest of you on Moreno's Aviator's Challenge? John Cox #40600 _____ From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Fred Moreno Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 1:38 PM Subject: [LML] Hope, Denial, Money and Bullshit This forum is superb for exchanging ideas, problems, and solutions, but we seem to be very short on hard data. Maybe that is because it is hard to get, or because some people don't know how to calibrate and test carefully, or some don't want to know. As a result we have a lot of anecdotal evidence, much of which is clearly wrong. Example: one LIV-P owner proudly announced at the Lancair dinner he was getting 305 knots at 70%. I had flown in that the airplane, and knew the airspeed indicator was not calibrated, and the owner's calculation was based on an E6B which meant it had a built in 20 knot error based on OAT and compressibility effects. Put that in, and you get about 285 knots pretty much like everyone else. And he really had no clue about the exact power setting, just a guess. Maybe we just prefer rumors and BS to facts. Perhaps that is why rumors are so popular. Facts are such nasty things. They just won't go away. I propose we make a concerted effort to gather and exchange reproducible, defensible data, and share it with the group. Not the swing of the needle in an updraft or satisfying GPS reading while screaming downwind, but data that is good enough for us to compare the relative performance of props, modifications, etc. With the new Chelton (and other) instrumentation, factory calibrated far better than your steam gauges, good GPS data, and careful data recording (OAT, Altitude, fuel flow, etc.) we can get excellent data without a long and painful calibration process. The new Electronics International MVP-50 is also a superb instrument, built to good standards with reasonably accurate sensors and ability to record and regurgitate vast amounts of data. When I was ordering mine, I found that some of their customers have used the extra channels to monitor things like engine cooling air delta P, firewall temperature (how hot is that epoxy REALLY getting?), and other nuggets of information useful to the rest of us. This rant is motivated by last night's rereading Kent Paser's excellent book, Speed with Economy (1994, possibly available through EAA). It documents Kent's 20+ years of modifications with his 160 HP Mustang II. Kent is an aeronautical engineer, and took the time to calibrate his instruments and conduct careful experiments making changes one at a time to isolate what worked and what didn't. Net result: an increase of 64 MPH in top speed and 59 MPH in cruise speed. Slowed to his old economy cruise speed, fuel flow was cut IN HALF. Our Lancairs already incorporate a lot of the features that Kent explored and adopted, but most of us have failed to learn his (and other) lessons about exhaust systems, engine air cooling, exhaust air leakage in low pressure areas, where we should lavish our attention to detail and such. If we can collect and disseminate GOOD data in a format that another can study, digest, and learn, then we can advance our aviation interests even better than we are now doing. Moreno's challenge: produce and publish (here, of course) "test reports" documenting what you measured, how you measured it, if and how you checked your instruments, and any helpful comments. I promise that if I ever get my Lancair IV finished (early next year?) I will keep testing and recording and share the news, good or bad, because it should not be an ego thing, but a sharing of information thing to help advance our "state-of-the-art." I recall one year that Brent Regan and I walked around Oshkosh trying to capture the essence of the place in a few short words. The Greeks thought the world consisted of Earth, Air, Fire, and Water. We concluded that Oshkosh consisted of Hope, Denial (of the laws of physics), Money, and Bullshit. It need not be that way. Advancement comes from knowledge, and knowledge comes (in part) from testing, experiments, and real data. Fred Moreno, Thirsting for Data -- 20/10/2006


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:03:51 AM PST US
    From: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
    Subject: Re: Dual Lightspeed?
    Hello Rob, I have it now 3 yrs and so far have still to wait that it fails on me. Occasionally I have a starting problem when the voltage goes to low, but just recycling power to the box and you're ready to go again. Start is normally (if correctly primed) on the 2nd or 3rd blade, runs very smooth (you know when you do the run up and switch magnetos) and the leaning is a great thing to extend your range (as long as you have all EGT/CHT temps monitored). I have no carbon build up on the spark plugs either. I bought the engine with the Lasar together, but you would need to swap the two magnetos only, hook up a little box to the cables coming from the magnetos and you're ready to check the timing (a tester needed for that). Pros: my engine is still a certified one, starting and operation I would not change back to magnetos only, saves also a lot of money on fuel consumption Cons: expensive as it is certified, still using magnetos with their limited lifetime. The time I bought it (2001) Klaus ignition was available already, but looking at his electrical layout then did not get me enthusiastic (his fail over system with two magnetos had a single point of failure. having the backup on magnetos gives me a good feeling as the engine still would run without any power (and believe me I have a full electronic cockpit with three power systems. I would look in the P-/E-mag probably today for my O-320 but hey, I'm more then satisfied right now with what I have! Werner do not archive Rob Kermanj wrote: > Br Werner, can you tell about your Lasar set up? How long have you > had it and how reliable is it? Pros/Cons? Can you describe the > installation? > > Thanks > > Do not archive > Rob > > > On Oct 21, 2006, at 5:32 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net >> <mailto:glastar@gmx.net>> >> >> Hi Chris, >> >>> In theory, I suppose that you could also run much leaner without >>> roughness, because you can advance the timing to a point that you >>> will still achieve a complete burn (or more complete I should say) >>> of the fuel charge. Again, in theory, you could lean and lean and >>> lean, and advance (with manual control) and advance and advance, and >>> get a very low fuel burn. >> >> I can confirm, that with my Lasar setup I can run lean of peak to >> such an extend, that if a go a fractional turn further, my engine >> just stops and the control is maybe 2-5 mm from the maximum movement >> when that happened, so I see quite low fuel flow around 6.2-6.5 gal >> (O-320) during cruise with 23/2300. >> >> br Werner >> >> do not archive >> >> - The RV10-List Email Forum - >> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >> --> >> - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - >> --> - List Contribution Web Site - >> Thank you for your generous support! >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> >> >> > >* > > >* >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:09:12 AM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
    Subject: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org> I don't know why, but the pump for an IO requires more than 5 amps. When talking to Van's, they said that the kit was for the O engine, not the IO, so I would need to go with a 10 amp switch. Again, I don't know why, but I know it is true. Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 9:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> The carburated fuel pump is a Facet Pump and the injected engine uses an ES Airflow fuel pump. Thats the difference, but I do not know if there is any difference in power requirements. The electrical design per Van's wiring diagram calls for a 5 amp toggle switch breaker with 18 AWG wire. And no note for a difference between the 2 pumps. Larry John Testement wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> > > Why would the fuel injected engine require a different breaker size for the > boost pump? > > John Testement > jwt@roadmapscoaching.com > 40321 > Richmond, VA > Finish kit - wheel fairings, cowl prep > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint > Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 8:32 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org> > > The kit comes with (or at least used to) a switching breaker (5A) for the > boost pump. For Injected engines, you need a 10A. You can just switch out > the breaker and change the size of wire, if necessary, based on the amperage > and the length of the run. You don't ever, that I can think of, need the > boost pump when the master is off, and you mainly just use it for startup > when the master is on, of course. You definitely do not want to run it all > the time when the ignition switch is in the RUN position. Just a breaker > would certainly not be the way to go, even if it is a push/pull breaker. > You want a switch, but again, that is what the kit comes with. It just > happens to have the breaker in the switch as well (switching breaker) to > keep things simple. > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse@itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > W: 352-465-4545 > C: 352-427-0285 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry Casson > Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 10:21 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Perry Casson <pcasson@sasktel.net> > > Hi All, > > The Van's RV-10 wiring harness kit is designed for a carbureted engine with > a boost pump. I'm installing a fuel injected engine so need to make some > modifications. It looks as if the easy thing would be just to install a 10A > breaker and upsize the wire to convert the boost pump circuit to a injection > pump circuit but is that really what is best? Seems to me we want that pump > running as long as the ignition switch is in a run position and not switched > with the master on/off. Like to hear what others are doing. > > > Thanks > > Perry Casson - still wiring.... > Regina, Canada > > > -- --


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:07:23 AM PST US
    From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Dual Lightspeed?
    Thanks for the info, I will most likely switch to Lasar when I am faced with mag failure. I just cheapened out a little at the time. How is the "little Box" hooked up? do not archive Rob Kermanj On Oct 24, 2006, at 10:03 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > Hello Rob, > > I have it now 3 yrs and so far have still to wait that it fails on > me. Occasionally I have a starting problem when the voltage goes to > low, but just recycling power to the box and you're ready to go > again. Start is normally (if correctly primed) on the 2nd or 3rd > blade, runs very smooth (you know when you do the run up and switch > magnetos) and the leaning is a great thing to extend your range (as > long as you have all EGT/CHT temps monitored). I have no carbon > build up on the spark plugs either. I bought the engine with the > Lasar together, but you would need to swap the two magnetos only, > hook up a little box to the cables coming from the magnetos and > you're ready to check the timing (a tester needed for that). > > Pros: my engine is still a certified one, starting and operation I > would not change back to magnetos only, saves also a lot of money > on fuel consumption > Cons: expensive as it is certified, still using magnetos with their > limited lifetime. > > The time I bought it (2001) Klaus ignition was available already, > but looking at his electrical layout then did not get me > enthusiastic (his fail over system with two magnetos had a single > point of failure. having the backup on magnetos gives me a good > feeling as the engine still would run without any power (and > believe me I have a full electronic cockpit with three power > systems. I would look in the P-/E-mag probably today for my O-320 > but hey, I'm more then satisfied right now with what I have! > > Werner > > do not archive > > Rob Kermanj wrote: >> Br Werner, can you tell about your Lasar set up? How long have >> you had it and how reliable is it? Pros/Cons? Can you describe the >> installation? >> >> Thanks >> >> Do not archive >> Rob >> >> >> >> On Oct 21, 2006, at 5:32 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: >> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> >>> >>> Hi Chris, >>> >>>> In theory, I suppose that you could also run much leaner without >>>> roughness, because you can advance the timing to a point that >>>> you will still achieve a complete burn (or more complete I >>>> should say) of the fuel charge. Again, in theory, you could >>>> lean and lean and lean, and advance (with manual control) and >>>> advance and advance, and get a very low fuel burn. >>> I can confirm, that with my Lasar setup I can run lean of peak to >>> such an extend, that if a go a fractional turn further, my engine >>> just stops and the control is maybe 2-5 mm from the maximum >>> movement when that happened, so I see quite low fuel flow around >>> 6.2-6.5 gal (O-320) during cruise with 23/2300. >>> >>> br Werner >>> >>> do not archive >>> >>> - The RV10-List Email Forum - >>> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >>> --> >>> - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - >>> --> - List Contribution Web Site - >>> Thank you for your generous support! >>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> face="courier new,courier" size="2">http://www.matronics.com/ >> Navigator?RV10-List >> > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:37:12 AM PST US
    From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Fuselage Conduit Support
    I have ran a wire conduit under the passenger and baggage flooring. This i s the black stuff that Vans sells. The conduit is only supported at the fr ame locations (total of 3) so there is no support between the baggage floor frames which is a relatively long length.=0AI am wondering if this is acce ptaple and if anyone else has done this. My option is to drill out the bag gage floor rivets and put in some more supports for the conduit. This cond uit will be carrying my battery cable. Anyone know what the acceptable uns upported conduit length is?=0A=0Athanks=0A =0ANiko=0A40188


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:59:37 AM PST US
    Subject: Dual Lightspeed?
    From: "BPA" <BPA@bpaengines.com>
    -----Original Message----- From: Monty Barrett Sr Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:46 AM Subject: FW: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? Perhaps the timing advances too much. In other words, the work done BY the piston increases and the work done ON the piston decreases. Monty Barrett BPE,Inc. -----Original Message----- From: BPA Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 8:53 AM Subject: FW: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 2:10 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? Michael, this is exactly the kind of data which keeps the cavity prone sugar sweetened kool-aid at bay. I agree. I want to know why the horsepower drop vs. two pre-cambrian magnetos with no timing change on a dynamometer run. John ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 8:36 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? One of the things I posted a while back was a summary of a conversation I had with a instructor at a Sportair workshop. He is a long time A&P/IA, teaches A&P at a university in the DC area, EAA contributor, blah, blah, blah, knows his stuff and is a smart guy. Basically his thought on the matter was that with a single mag and a EI, the flame front would no longer meet at the optimum point because of the differences in timing. Now he didn't have any evidence that this would cause any problems, but his feeling was that it is less than optimum. This is why Klaus says that the addition of a second LSE wouldn't improve things very much, but it also shows that flame front propagation does have a measurable effect. This was one of the key factors that led me to make the decision on dual LSE's. There could also be a negative effect of additional stress if the flame front is no longer meeting in the center of the piston, but again I have no evidence of this and it was just a possibility the Sportair instructor mentioned. Wave propagation isn't the easiest thing to model but the guys at GAMI and some at Lycoming/Continental are doing a lot to understand it. This is the same reason you now see odd shaped piston heads in high performance applications, to get optimal wave propagation and focus the shockwaves in the cylinder. Michael Sausen -10 #352 fuselage - still in Texas ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 7:00 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? Flame front propagation is a fascinating topic. F/A mixture is hotter near the exhaust valve that a comparatively cooler intake valve. Heat is a catalyst for combustion. If it is a charged carbon deposit and ignites a mixture at other than the required timing it gets its own name - Detonation. If the event happens before the piston is ready to provide the power-stroke and it is before the exalted event, it is called PRE - ignition. Read the GAMI site. The theory is they both meet in the middle in perfect harmony. Distributor, Mag timing and Electronic timing and all things spark related need to change with the change of engine load and rpm. A finite setting does not enhance this phenomena. The phrase Optimum is a mis-leader in that it is the better of a poor trade off. PRISM will address this need for a changing advanced spark curve. One of the vulnerabilities of Mags is they are Primeval - Brain Dead simple and reliable at a single setting throughout a range of performance requirements. Everyone building should make their personal decision based on research rather than popularity of the moment. John Cox http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:42:41 AM PST US
    From: ivo welch <ivowel@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Accidents in RVs
    --> RV10-List message posted by: ivo welch <ivowel@gmail.com> I don't think stall speed per se has that much to do with benign handling and accident characteristics, although it does correlate with what seems to matter. what seems important to me is the effort that it takes for the pilot to get an airplane stall, how much warning the plane gives, and how it behaves in a stall. for the really adventurous, getting an airplane into a spin and spin recovery can be added to this. like the RV-9, the RV-10 is very, very benign. it takes a long time to slow the plane down into a power-off stall, it is absolutely impossible to overlook getting close to stall, the plane can dawdle along at stall speed just fine, and stall recovery seems like less than 50' vertical loss. accelerated stalls are not that different in behavior. I don't have the chuzbe to try to spin the plane. (Chicken!). I learned to fly in a cherokee 160. I think the RV-9 and RV-10 are, if anything, more benign---and this is definitely an amazing feat. the reason is that in the cherokee, the panel is so high, it is not that obvious that your nose is pointing to the sky. with the better visibility in the RV, it becomes all the more obvious that your nose is pointing straight up now which is required to stall the plane. actual behavior of the airplane while approaching a stall and during a stall feels similar. Other things are of course easier in a cherokee. the cherokee is a flying truck. it will keep and hit its low airspeed and altitude better, but only because it is less "air-slippery." that is, in an RV-9 or RV-10, a thermal can make you gain 100' in altitude in no time. its almost sail-plane like. (this applied more to the RV-9 than the RV-10, but even the RV-10 is still more aerodynamic than the piper.) slowing down to the target speed is not as instant, either. this is not a safety issue, but if you want to fly by the numbers for IFR purposes, it requires more concentration and patience. and then there is the ground handling, which is not as easy for beginners---something RVs share with Cirrus and a lot of other airplanes (especially in cross-wind landings, where the castoring front wheel wants to not point straight). the piper's bigger wheels, shock absorbers, greater distance between wheels, and nose-wheel steering would be nice to have. I have never had a problem with it, but I am always a little unhappy with my cross-wind landings. It can't do it with the same smoothness I could do it with in the piper. personally, I think a well-built Vans RV-9 or RV-10 is the safest single-prop aircraft in the sky today. regards, /ivo http://welch.econ.brown.edu/n325hp/


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:55:49 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: engines
    From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com> Just wondering why no one has been as curious as me to find out more about that turbo RV-10 down in OZ? I'm not really interested in duplicating that, but as the first alternative (sort of) powerplant RV-10, it would be worth investigating! Inquiring minds want to know! cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net do not archive


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:59:00 AM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Fuselage Conduit Support
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> I cannot comment on how supporting the conduit, but Instead of drilling out the floor board, now may be the time to add an access panel or 2 to the floor. I used the same parts that are used for the wing stall warning access panel and installed them in the baggage floor so I have future access to the step mounts. You can see photos here <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/FloorAccessPanels/index.html>. Michael Sausen used them in a different place in the baggage floor. Photos are here <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&category=613&log=15783&row=15> I may add some additional access panels if and when they are needed. Larry Rosen #356 Nikolaos Napoli wrote: > I have ran a wire conduit under the passenger and baggage flooring. > This is the black stuff that Vans sells. The conduit is only > supported at the frame locations (total of 3) so there is no support > between the baggage floor frames which is a relatively long length. > I am wondering if this is acceptaple and if anyone else has done > this. My option is to drill out the baggage floor rivets and put in > some more supports for the conduit. This conduit will be carrying my > battery cable. Anyone know what the acceptable unsupported conduit > length is? > > thanks > > > Niko > > 40188 > > * > > > *


    Message 10


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    Time: 11:27:53 AM PST US
    From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Fuselage Conduit Support
    Niko, I've done the same thing and supported the conduit under the baggage floor with adel clamps. #19 drill used midway along the baggage rib, #8 screw and nylok nut at each station. Works well. Also fabricated a bracket to support the conduit as is exits the rear bulkhead into the tailcone. Pics included. John Hasbrouck #40264


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:10:35 PM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
    Subject: Fuselage Conduit Support
    This is what we did, but we used thicker-wall (stiffer) conduit with a smooth inside. We made a bracket at the back of the baggage compartment to hold them with cushion clamps, tied them off to the step support, and used grommets in the holes going through the ribs and the rear seat floors. There=92s no such thing as too much conduit IMHO, especially with a 2AWG welding wire battery cable completely filling one. Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:36 AM Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support I have ran a wire conduit under the passenger and baggage flooring. This is the black stuff that Vans sells. The conduit is only supported at the frame locations (total of 3) so there is no support between the baggage floor frames which is a relatively long length. I am wondering if this is acceptaple and if anyone else has done this. My option is to drill out the baggage floor rivets and put in some more supports for the conduit. This conduit will be carrying my battery cable. Anyone know what the acceptable unsupported conduit length is? thanks Niko 40188 -- 10/23/2006


    Message 12


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    Time: 12:15:08 PM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
    Subject: Re: engines
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org> I'm sure you are not the only one by a long shot, but the rest of "us" may just be quietly curious and waiting for more info. OZ is a long way from FL. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 12:54 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: engines --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com> Just wondering why no one has been as curious as me to find out more about that turbo RV-10 down in OZ? I'm not really interested in duplicating that, but as the first alternative (sort of) powerplant RV-10, it would be worth investigating! Inquiring minds want to know! cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net do not archive -- --


    Message 13


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    Time: 12:41:13 PM PST US
    From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Just a test - Junk mail
    I haven't been getting messages for 2 days. Resubscribed and checking the system.=0A=0ADo not archive


    Message 14


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    Time: 04:24:32 PM PST US
    From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
    Subject: Fuselage Conduit Support
    ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hasbrouck Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 2:25 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support Niko, I've done the same thing and supported the conduit under the baggage floor with adel clamps. #19 drill used midway along the baggage rib, #8 screw and nylok nut at each station. Works well. Also fabricated a bracket to support the conduit as is exits the rear bulkhead into the tailcone. Pics included. John Hasbrouck #40264


    Message 15


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    Time: 06:04:19 PM PST US
    Subject: Dual Lightspeed?
    From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    So, Monty - If the amount of advance provided by the Lightspeed was less (and more in line with a NO CHANGE magneto) is there are potential for the benefits of electronic ignition without a commensurate drop in top end horsepower at cruise? Could there be room for improvement in the programmed timing curve of an electronic unit in your opinion? John ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:03 AM Subject: FW: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? -----Original Message----- From: Monty Barrett Sr Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:46 AM Subject: FW: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? Perhaps the timing advances too much. In other words, the work done BY the piston increases and the work done ON the piston decreases. Monty Barrett BPE,Inc. -----Original Message----- From: BPA Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 8:53 AM Subject: FW: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 2:10 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? Michael, this is exactly the kind of data which keeps the cavity prone sugar sweetened kool-aid at bay. I agree. I want to know why the horsepower drop vs. two pre-cambrian magnetos with no timing change on a dynamometer run. John ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 8:36 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? One of the things I posted a while back was a summary of a conversation I had with a instructor at a Sportair workshop. He is a long time A&P/IA, teaches A&P at a university in the DC area, EAA contributor, blah, blah, blah, knows his stuff and is a smart guy. Basically his thought on the matter was that with a single mag and a EI, the flame front would no longer meet at the optimum point because of the differences in timing. Now he didn't have any evidence that this would cause any problems, but his feeling was that it is less than optimum. This is why Klaus says that the addition of a second LSE wouldn't improve things very much, but it also shows that flame front propagation does have a measurable effect. This was one of the key factors that led me to make the decision on dual LSE's. There could also be a negative effect of additional stress if the flame front is no longer meeting in the center of the piston, but again I have no evidence of this and it was just a possibility the Sportair instructor mentioned. Wave propagation isn't the easiest thing to model but the guys at GAMI and some at Lycoming/Continental are doing a lot to understand it. This is the same reason you now see odd shaped piston heads in high performance applications, to get optimal wave propagation and focus the shockwaves in the cylinder. Michael Sausen -10 #352 fuselage - still in Texas ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 7:00 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual Lightspeed? Flame front propagation is a fascinating topic. F/A mixture is hotter near the exhaust valve that a comparatively cooler intake valve. Heat is a catalyst for combustion. If it is a charged carbon deposit and ignites a mixture at other than the required timing it gets its own name - Detonation. If the event happens before the piston is ready to provide the power-stroke and it is before the exalted event, it is called PRE - ignition. Read the GAMI site. The theory is they both meet in the middle in perfect harmony. Distributor, Mag timing and Electronic timing and all things spark related need to change with the change of engine load and rpm. A finite setting does not enhance this phenomena. The phrase Optimum is a mis-leader in that it is the better of a poor trade off. PRISM will address this need for a changing advanced spark curve. One of the vulnerabilities of Mags is they are Primeval - Brain Dead simple and reliable at a single setting throughout a range of performance requirements. Everyone building should make their personal decision based on research rather than popularity of the moment. John Cox http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>


    Message 16


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    Time: 06:30:53 PM PST US
    From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net> The Facet pump for the O series carb model draws only 1 amp according to Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php Suspect the higher pressure OI pump would take a little more oomph! Bill S 7a -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:08 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org> I don't know why, but the pump for an IO requires more than 5 amps. When talking to Van's, they said that the kit was for the O engine, not the IO, so I would need to go with a 10 amp switch. Again, I don't know why, but I know it is true. Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 9:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> The carburated fuel pump is a Facet Pump and the injected engine uses an ES Airflow fuel pump. Thats the difference, but I do not know if there is any difference in power requirements. The electrical design per Van's wiring diagram calls for a 5 amp toggle switch breaker with 18 AWG wire. And no note for a difference between the 2 pumps. Larry John Testement wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> > > Why would the fuel injected engine require a different breaker size > for the > boost pump? > > John Testement > jwt@roadmapscoaching.com > 40321 > Richmond, VA > Finish kit - wheel fairings, cowl prep > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint > Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 8:32 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org> > > The kit comes with (or at least used to) a switching breaker (5A) for > the boost pump. For Injected engines, you need a 10A. You can just > switch out > the breaker and change the size of wire, if necessary, based on the amperage > and the length of the run. You don't ever, that I can think of, need > the boost pump when the master is off, and you mainly just use it for > startup when the master is on, of course. You definitely do not want > to run it all > the time when the ignition switch is in the RUN position. Just a > breaker would certainly not be the way to go, even if it is a push/pull breaker. > You want a switch, but again, that is what the kit comes with. It > just happens to have the breaker in the switch as well (switching > breaker) to keep things simple. > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse@itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > W: 352-465-4545 > C: 352-427-0285 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry > Casson > Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 10:21 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Vans wiring kit - mods for fuel injection > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Perry Casson <pcasson@sasktel.net> > > Hi All, > > The Van's RV-10 wiring harness kit is designed for a carbureted engine with > a boost pump. I'm installing a fuel injected engine so need to make > some modifications. It looks as if the easy thing would be just to > install a 10A > breaker and upsize the wire to convert the boost pump circuit to a injection > pump circuit but is that really what is best? Seems to me we want > that pump > running as long as the ignition switch is in a run position and not switched > with the master on/off. Like to hear what others are doing. > > > Thanks > > Perry Casson - still wiring.... > Regina, Canada > > > -- --


    Message 17


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    Time: 06:35:16 PM PST US
    From: JSMcGrew@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Fuselage Conduit Support
    I put conduit under the baggage floor and supported it with adel clamps. However, I did not like the Van's conduit. It is too flexible, making it very difficult to route wire through. I bought 3/4" PEX pipe from the local plumbing store. It is more flexible than PVC, yet much more rigid than the corrugated black conduit. It is smooth on the inside and is just under 7/8" OD so it was easy to enlarge the holes with a 7/8" unibit. I also put the conduit down the full length of each wing, with a couple holes along the length to allow wires to exit. PEX pipe is made for plumbing, so I did a non-scientific test to compare it to Van's conduit. I used a heat gun to simulate an overheating wire. Try taking a heat gun to the corrugated conduit: it shrivels up like shrink wrap. By comparison the PEX is quite a bit more robust when it comes to heat. Photos attached. Jim McGrew Flying In a message dated 10/24/2006 7:26:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com writes: ----- Original Message ----- From: _John Hasbrouck_ (mailto:jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com) Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 2:25 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support Niko, I've done the same thing and supported the conduit under the baggage floor with adel clamps. #19 drill used midway along the baggage rib, #8 screw and nylok nut at each station. Works well. Also fabricated a bracket to support the conduit as is exits the rear bulkhead into the tailcone. Pics included. John Hasbrouck #40264


    Message 18


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    Time: 06:43:49 PM PST US
    Subject: Fuselage Conduit Support
    From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    Niko - to the best of my review, your question has still gone unanswered. The answer is, was and will remain - none. Now for the explanation. Best Practices in AC 43.13 is to leave wire runs supported at 6" intervals. The benefits are to reduce droop, reduce wire runs, reduce heat, enhance long term inspection. Tim posted on his RV-10 University site a DAR PowerPoint on aging aircraft wiring. It is blamed for the non-conspiracy cause of bringing down TWA flight 800 off the East Coast. Why is it used? Ease of wire pulling. Ease of retro modification. Why is the answer none. Cause it has been found to mask the tell tale signs of an incorrect wire size and the carry amperage of the material selected. Wire needs to keep cool. With heat, resistance goes up. Do airlines use conduit, yes in limited locations and usually light wall aluminum and for the reason of protecting wiring from chafing, adjacent heat sources such as exhaust stacks or de-ice lines. Conduit, unless transparent, masks the ability to inspect progressively. Do all certified GA aircraft avoid conduit, can't answer that. As little as practical I would guess. It is often 3-4x ID of the conduit over the OD on the final assembled wire bundle in it. Again for heat dissipation. Aluminum is great for radiating that heat build up away from selected hot spots. Yes there are things that cause hotspots in wire runs. In Experimental construction, we too often use automotive, lower grade components, switches and fuses, conduit and non-aviation grade products. The reasons given are often cost and convenience. Nothing is wrong with those, if the evaluation takes in all the appropriate informational input. You get to answer what is appropriate. So you can answer your own question. Ask yourself why specs are different between DC and AC rated switches. Can you functionally use the wiring tables to select the correct gage of wire for the wire run and current carry? Do you know the effects of heat on the adjacent bundle? Conduit is usually multiple run. Do you know the difference in momentary and continuous use wiring? I will bet that not one single builder will change their decision to use it. That is what makes building Experimentals so much fun. Convenience! Want to post this question on the aero-electric list and watch the verbal joust begin? Ask Stein, his opinion. Dan Checkoway did a pretty good post on his site for the failure of support tabs and the need to go in after one year and re-attach his wire runs. John 40600 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 8:36 AM Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support I have ran a wire conduit under the passenger and baggage flooring. This is the black stuff that Vans sells. The conduit is only supported at the frame locations (total of 3) so there is no support between the baggage floor frames which is a relatively long length. I am wondering if this is acceptaple and if anyone else has done this. My option is to drill out the baggage floor rivets and put in some more supports for the conduit. This conduit will be carrying my battery cable. Anyone know what the acceptable unsupported conduit length is? thanks Niko 40188


    Message 19


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    Time: 06:58:16 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Accidents in RVs
    From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net> This is really an interesting thread. I had hoped to follow-up the article with one on transition training; not just a "gee you need it" but a look at what habits or characteristics the non-transitioned pilot have. I then hoped to compare those with the Cirrus program to further define the differences between the transitioning RV pilot and the transitioning -- or learning -- Cirrus pilot. Don't get me wrong. I'm not into the "Cirrus is better" or "RV is better" debate that sometimes pops up. I'm just into analyzing RVs in the context of other airplanes, and RV pilots in relation to other pilots in an informative way. Alas, I've been unable to connect the two leading providers of transition training on Planet RV for various reasons. If you know of anyone else who provides transition training, could you please forward this to them and ask them to contact me. The article was meant to be the beginning of a discussion, not the end of one. And thanks!! Bob Collins bcollinsrv7a (at) comcast.net -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70058#70058


    Message 20


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    Time: 07:17:43 PM PST US
    Subject: Fuselage Conduit Support
    From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    Jim, should we conclude that a heated wire bundle can be located quicker in Van's black corrugated due to heat shrink. And conversely, your PEX will mask the heat increase till the wires fuse? You were right that it is about heat. Should PEX be translucent? cause overheated wire is insulated with a product so that there is a marked and visible color change with excessive heat increase. Three distinct stages just like skin burns. Tim has some good shots. I had forwarded him the same presentation in Living Color. It is all about identification of an impending issue before reality sets in during flight. Otherwise the discussion migrates to inflight backup systems / vacuum gages, fire annunciation, fire suppression and software to identify the safest and quick route to the ground with a safe departure from the aircraft. Always use the lightest gage, the shortest run, the highest quality to meet the task and to inspect for impending potential problems. Wiring by its nature functions in a hostile environment. John Do not Archive ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JSMcGrew@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 6:35 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support I put conduit under the baggage floor and supported it with adel clamps. However, I did not like the Van's conduit. It is too flexible, making it very difficult to route wire through. I bought 3/4" PEX pipe from the local plumbing store. It is more flexible than PVC, yet much more rigid than the corrugated black conduit. It is smooth on the inside and is just under 7/8" OD so it was easy to enlarge the holes with a 7/8" unibit. I also put the conduit down the full length of each wing, with a couple holes along the length to allow wires to exit. PEX pipe is made for plumbing, so I did a non-scientific test to compare it to Van's conduit. I used a heat gun to simulate an overheating wire. Try taking a heat gun to the corrugated conduit: it shrivels up like shrink wrap. By comparison the PEX is quite a bit more robust when it comes to heat. Photos attached. Jim McGrew Flying In a message dated 10/24/2006 7:26:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com writes: ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hasbrouck <mailto:jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com> To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 2:25 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support Niko, I've done the same thing and supported the conduit under the baggage floor with adel clamps. #19 drill used midway along the baggage rib, #8 screw and nylok nut at each station. Works well. Also fabricated a bracket to support the conduit as is exits the rear bulkhead into the tailcone. Pics included. John Hasbrouck #40264


    Message 21


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    Time: 07:27:45 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Accidents in RVs
    From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> Having participated in Tim's entire transition training (in the backseat) and regularly attending the annual High Performance Proficiency Training at the Lancair factory, they are tailored for two entirely different objectives. Don't get me wrong, Mike is fabulous for Transition Training. Proficiency Training, Two day of intensive classroom ground school, specific Make and Model accident case study review, Unusual Flight Attitudes, Onboard Emergencies (multiple) and High Alpha Approaches are not in that transition syllabus. It is a new cat. They are both Highly valued. Apples and Oranges. I think you can see the Insurance boys are about to require both. Flight Safety has made an industry of the later. However the readers should not conclude anything from RV-9 or RV-10 statistics so soon after introduction. They should be able to conclude that VAN has enhanced the safety margins by the longer wing design. Thanks for your great article. John Cox Do not Archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 6:58 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Accidents in RVs --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net> This is really an interesting thread. I had hoped to follow-up the article with one on transition training; not just a "gee you need it" but a look at what habits or characteristics the non-transitioned pilot have. I then hoped to compare those with the Cirrus program to further define the differences between the transitioning RV pilot and the transitioning -- or learning -- Cirrus pilot. Don't get me wrong. I'm not into the "Cirrus is better" or "RV is better" debate that sometimes pops up. I'm just into analyzing RVs in the context of other airplanes, and RV pilots in relation to other pilots in an informative way. Alas, I've been unable to connect the two leading providers of transition training on Planet RV for various reasons. If you know of anyone else who provides transition training, could you please forward this to them and ask them to contact me. The article was meant to be the beginning of a discussion, not the end of one. And thanks!! Bob Collins bcollinsrv7a (at) comcast.net -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70058#70058


    Message 22


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    Time: 08:20:52 PM PST US
    From: "Paul Grimstad" <bldgrv10450@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Fuselage Conduit Support
    John Thanks for the post. I think of all the old military aircraft I've seen over the years with wires bundled and tied to structure. I had a rough-in electrical inspection on a building project today and the inspector commented that the electrician did the right thing separating the wires nailed down a wall line. He said that the circuit breaker must be de-rated and / or the wire size increased if the wires are excessively bundled (quoted some code stuff and lost me), also the maximum length of conduit that a shielded wire can pass through is 24". Thanks for the input, I'm going to do a little more thinking about the wire runs. Paul Grimstad RV-10 40450 fuselage Portland, OR 97219 ----- Original Message ----- From: John W. Cox To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 6:42 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support Niko - to the best of my review, your question has still gone unanswered. The answer is, was and will remain - none. Now for the explanation. Best Practices in AC 43.13 is to leave wire runs supported at 6" intervals. The benefits are to reduce droop, reduce wire runs, reduce heat, enhance long term inspection. Tim posted on his RV-10 University site a DAR PowerPoint on aging aircraft wiring. It is blamed for the non-conspiracy cause of bringing down TWA flight 800 off the East Coast. Why is it used? Ease of wire pulling. Ease of retro modification. Why is the answer none. Cause it has been found to mask the tell tale signs of an incorrect wire size and the carry amperage of the material selected. Wire needs to keep cool. With heat, resistance goes up. Do airlines use conduit, yes in limited locations and usually light wall aluminum and for the reason of protecting wiring from chafing, adjacent heat sources such as exhaust stacks or de-ice lines. Conduit, unless transparent, masks the ability to inspect progressively. Do all certified GA aircraft avoid conduit, can't answer that. As little as practical I would guess. It is often 3-4x ID of the conduit over the OD on the final assembled wire bundle in it. Again for heat dissipation. Aluminum is great for radiating that heat build up away from selected hot spots. Yes there are things that cause hotspots in wire runs. In Experimental construction, we too often use automotive, lower grade components, switches and fuses, conduit and non-aviation grade products. The reasons given are often cost and convenience. Nothing is wrong with those, if the evaluation takes in all the appropriate informational input. You get to answer what is appropriate. So you can answer your own question. Ask yourself why specs are different between DC and AC rated switches. Can you functionally use the wiring tables to select the correct gage of wire for the wire run and current carry? Do you know the effects of heat on the adjacent bundle? Conduit is usually multiple run. Do you know the difference in momentary and continuous use wiring? I will bet that not one single builder will change their decision to use it. That is what makes building Experimentals so much fun. Convenience! Want to post this question on the aero-electric list and watch the verbal joust begin? Ask Stein, his opinion. Dan Checkoway did a pretty good post on his site for the failure of support tabs and the need to go in after one year and re-attach his wire runs. John 40600 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 8:36 AM To: Matronics Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support I have ran a wire conduit under the passenger and baggage flooring. This is the black stuff that Vans sells. The conduit is only supported at the frame locations (total of 3) so there is no support between the baggage floor frames which is a relatively long length. I am wondering if this is acceptaple and if anyone else has done this. My option is to drill out the baggage floor rivets and put in some more supports for the conduit. This conduit will be carrying my battery cable. Anyone know what the acceptable unsupported conduit length is? thanks Niko 40188 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List


    Message 23


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    Time: 08:21:28 PM PST US
    From: JSMcGrew@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Fuselage Conduit Support
    All valid points, John. I would like to point out that one of the challenges that I found as the RV-10 comes together is getting the wire runs 100% done before I riveted th ose floor panels down permanently and before skinning and installing the wings. Call it convenience if you will, but I ended up doing 90% of my wire runs through the conduit long after those areas were sealed up. I certainly didn 't make that decision lightly. I realize that I deviated from a perfect world to make things come together. Are you going to stay away from conduit altogether? How do you plan on inspecting the wires under the baggage floor area? Jim In a message dated 10/24/2006 10:19:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, johnwcox@pacificnw.com writes: Jim, should we conclude that a heated wire bundle can be located quicker in Van=99s black corrugated due to heat shrink. And conversely, your PE X will mask the heat increase till the wires fuse? You were right that it is abou t heat. Should PEX be translucent? cause overheated wire is insulated with a product so that there is a marked and visible color change with excessive h eat increase. Three distinct stages just like skin burns. Tim has some good sho ts. I had forwarded him the same presentation in Living Color. It is all about identification of an impending issue before reality sets in during flight. Otherwise the discussion migrates to inflight backup systems / vacuum gages , fire annunciation, fire suppression and software to identify the safest and quick route to the ground with a safe departure from the aircraft. Always use the lightest gage, the shortest run, the highest quality to meet the task and to inspect for impending potential problems. Wiring by its nature functions in a hostile environment. John Do not Archive ____________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JSMcGrew@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 6:35 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support I put conduit under the baggage floor and supported it with adel clamps. However, I did not like the Van's conduit. It is too flexible, making it ve ry difficult to route wire through. I bought 3/4" PEX pipe from the local plum bing store. It is more flexible than PVC, yet much more rigid than the corrugate d black conduit. It is smooth on the inside and is just under 7/8" OD so it was easy to enlarge the holes with a 7/8" unibit. I also put the conduit do wn the full length of each wing, with a couple holes along the length to allow wires to exit. PEX pipe is made for plumbing, so I did a non-scientific test to compare it to Van's conduit. I used a heat gun to simulate an overheating wire. Try taking a heat gun to the corrugated conduit: it shrivels up like shrink wra p. By comparison the PEX is quite a bit more robust when it comes to heat. Photos attached. Jim McGrew Flying In a message dated 10/24/2006 7:26:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com writes: ----- Original Message ----- From: _John Hasbrouck_ (mailto:jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com) Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 2:25 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support Niko, I've done the same thing and supported the conduit under the baggage floor with adel clamps. #19 drill used midway along the baggage rib, #8 screw an d nylok nut at each station. Works well. Also fabricated a bracket to suppor t the conduit as is exits the rear bulkhead into the tailcone. Pics included . John Hasbrouck #40264 (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution)


    Message 24


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    Time: 09:01:57 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Accidents in RVs
    From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net> AV8ORJWC wrote: > However the readers should not conclude anything from RV-9 or RV-10 statistics so soon after introduction. Maybe, maybe not. As the article notes, Richard L. Collins has done a lot of comparison of models in the number before first fatality. He says it's not unusual to have a high number of accidente early in a model life. If that's true -- and I assume it is -- could we not conclude that it might be unusual to have the RV-9 record so far? (knock on wood) -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70073#70073


    Message 25


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    Time: 09:02:19 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: Fuselage Conduit Support
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> I disagree with some of this. First, conduit can also be additional protection of the wire, from both being snagged by a moving control service actuator, and from anything rubbing against the wire. Of course, you also need to strive to ensure the conduit itself isn't getting chaffed. Next, flying a plane with wires in it, conduit or not, will require diligent wiring and a leap of faith beyond that. How many times do you realistically think you'll actually SEE the wires, conduit or not, under your floors or in those sidewalls. Yep, probably once a year on the walls, and maybe never again after install on the floors. So just run them right the first time. Also, what exactly is going to be going on inside a nice bundled run of wires in conduit that will chafe them? They're tefzel coated, and the wires would have to work pretty hard to chafe eachother. The heat factor is definitely a possible problem, but the advice given below directly can contribute to those problems. Imagine using the "lightest gauge" wire possible for all runs....you have choices....wires are sized according to gauge that will give a specific temperature rise. Stay within the low rise specs and you shouldn't have much problem with any of those bundles....going to the thinner wire with the higher temp rise and you're getting closer to the limits. Better advice, IMHO, is to absolutely properly size your breakers and fuses, which are designed with the goal of wire protection and limiting over-current situations in mind. Agreed though that certain conduits are better than others for temp ratings. It's one reason I went with plenum rated conduit under my cabin floors. The removal from effects of fumes and the proper selection of gauge or heavier wire through the wings led me to have no worries in the wings. I ran out of 14 gauge at one point, so ran a 12. There's no problem with that if you protect it with the same smaller fuse. Wire the whole plane with 10ga if you wish...you're not sacrificing safety, just gaining lots of un-useful weight. Oh, and if the additional weight is going to be considered a safety concern when running 18 ga instead of 20 ga wire, there's a theory there too... Take a peek in the mirror before going off the deep end to save a pound in the plane, and consider where it's probably will more likely save your life....skip the cheeseburger. There are positives and negatives to most every choice you'll make....but try not to make mountains out of molehills, or go throw out too many good ideas because of minor concerns. Wire chafing and overheating are scary possibilities when things go wrong...it's one of the reasons I have only one battery-bus type wire in my plane, but that doesn't mean conduit is always going to be a negative. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive JSMcGrew@aol.com wrote: > All valid points, John. > > I would like to point out that one of the challenges that I found as the > RV-10 comes together is getting the wire runs 100% done before I riveted > those floor panels down permanently and before skinning and installing > the wings. Call it convenience if you will, but I ended up doing 90% of > my wire runs through the conduit long after those areas were sealed > up. I certainly didn't make that decision lightly. I realize that I > deviated from a perfect world to make things come together. > > Are you going to stay away from conduit altogether? How do you plan on > inspecting the wires under the baggage floor area? > > Jim > > > In a message dated 10/24/2006 10:19:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > johnwcox@pacificnw.com writes: > > Jim, should we conclude that a heated wire bundle can be located > quicker in Vans black corrugated due to heat shrink. And > conversely, your PEX will mask the heat increase till the wires > fuse? You were right that it is about heat. Should PEX be > translucent? cause overheated wire is insulated with a product so > that there is a marked and visible color change with excessive heat > increase. Three distinct stages just like skin burns. Tim has some > good shots. I had forwarded him the same presentation in Living > Color. It is all about identification of an impending issue before > reality sets in during flight. Otherwise the discussion migrates to > inflight backup systems / vacuum gages, fire annunciation, fire > suppression and software to identify the safest and quick route to > the ground with a safe departure from the aircraft. > > > > Always use the lightest gage, the shortest run, the highest quality > to meet the task and to inspect for impending potential problems. > Wiring by its nature functions in a hostile environment. > > > > John > > Do not Archive > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of > *JSMcGrew@aol.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 24, 2006 6:35 PM > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support > > > > I put conduit under the baggage floor and supported it with adel > clamps. However, I did not like the Van's conduit. It is too > flexible, making it very difficult to route wire through. I bought > 3/4" PEX pipe from the local plumbing store. It is more flexible > than PVC, yet much more rigid than the corrugated black conduit. It > is smooth on the inside and is just under 7/8" OD so it was easy to > enlarge the holes with a 7/8" unibit. I also put the conduit down > the full length of each wing, with a couple holes along the length > to allow wires to exit. > > > > PEX pipe is made for plumbing, so I did a non-scientific test to > compare it to Van's conduit. I used a heat gun to simulate an > overheating wire. Try taking a heat gun to the corrugated conduit: > it shrivels up like shrink wrap. By comparison the PEX is quite a > bit more robust when it comes to heat. > > > > Photos attached. > > > > Jim McGrew > > Flying > > > > In a message dated 10/24/2006 7:26:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com writes: > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > *From:* John Hasbrouck <mailto:jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com> > > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com> > > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 24, 2006 2:25 PM > > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support > > > > Niko, > > I've done the same thing and supported the conduit under > the baggage floor with adel clamps. #19 drill used midway along > the baggage rib, #8 screw and nylok nut at each station. Works > well. Also fabricated a bracket to support the conduit as is > exits the rear bulkhead into the tailcone. Pics included. > > John Hasbrouck > > #40264 > > > > * > > ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > .matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com > ronics.com/">http://wiki.matronics.com > ://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > > > * > > > *


    Message 26


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    Time: 09:04:59 PM PST US
    From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Fuselage Conduit Support
    The aircraft mechanics handbook supplies a lot of info regarding loads voltages ,wire sizes and conduits and bundles, you might want to pick up a copy. ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Grimstad To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 8:16 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support John Thanks for the post. I think of all the old military aircraft I've seen over the years with wires bundled and tied to structure. I had a rough-in electrical inspection on a building project today and the inspector commented that the electrician did the right thing separating the wires nailed down a wall line. He said that the circuit breaker must be de-rated and / or the wire size increased if the wires are excessively bundled (quoted some code stuff and lost me), also the maximum length of conduit that a shielded wire can pass through is 24". Thanks for the input, I'm going to do a little more thinking about the wire runs. Paul Grimstad RV-10 40450 fuselage Portland, OR 97219 ----- Original Message ----- From: John W. Cox To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 6:42 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support Niko - to the best of my review, your question has still gone unanswered. The answer is, was and will remain - none. Now for the explanation. Best Practices in AC 43.13 is to leave wire runs supported at 6" intervals. The benefits are to reduce droop, reduce wire runs, reduce heat, enhance long term inspection. Tim posted on his RV-10 University site a DAR PowerPoint on aging aircraft wiring. It is blamed for the non-conspiracy cause of bringing down TWA flight 800 off the East Coast. Why is it used? Ease of wire pulling. Ease of retro modification. Why is the answer none. Cause it has been found to mask the tell tale signs of an incorrect wire size and the carry amperage of the material selected. Wire needs to keep cool. With heat, resistance goes up. Do airlines use conduit, yes in limited locations and usually light wall aluminum and for the reason of protecting wiring from chafing, adjacent heat sources such as exhaust stacks or de-ice lines. Conduit, unless transparent, masks the ability to inspect progressively. Do all certified GA aircraft avoid conduit, can't answer that. As little as practical I would guess. It is often 3-4x ID of the conduit over the OD on the final assembled wire bundle in it. Again for heat dissipation. Aluminum is great for radiating that heat build up away from selected hot spots. Yes there are things that cause hotspots in wire runs. In Experimental construction, we too often use automotive, lower grade components, switches and fuses, conduit and non-aviation grade products. The reasons given are often cost and convenience. Nothing is wrong with those, if the evaluation takes in all the appropriate informational input. You get to answer what is appropriate. So you can answer your own question. Ask yourself why specs are different between DC and AC rated switches. Can you functionally use the wiring tables to select the correct gage of wire for the wire run and current carry? Do you know the effects of heat on the adjacent bundle? Conduit is usually multiple run. Do you know the difference in momentary and continuous use wiring? I will bet that not one single builder will change their decision to use it. That is what makes building Experimentals so much fun. Convenience! Want to post this question on the aero-electric list and watch the verbal joust begin? Ask Stein, his opinion. Dan Checkoway did a pretty good post on his site for the failure of support tabs and the need to go in after one year and re-attach his wire runs. John 40600 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 8:36 AM To: Matronics Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Conduit Support I have ran a wire conduit under the passenger and baggage flooring. This is the black stuff that Vans sells. The conduit is only supported at the frame locations (total of 3) so there is no support between the baggage floor frames which is a relatively long length. I am wondering if this is acceptaple and if anyone else has done this. My option is to drill out the baggage floor rivets and put in some more supports for the conduit. This conduit will be carrying my battery cable. Anyone know what the acceptable unsupported conduit length is? thanks Niko 40188 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List


    Message 27


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    Time: 09:24:14 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Denso plugs for Lightspeed ignition
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> After 170+ hours on my engine, I finally pulled my top plugs that go with my lightspeed ignition. Lightspeed uses Denso W24EMR-C plugs, which are nicer than what you can substitute (NGK BR8ES) in that they're nickel plated and they have a cutback electrode for more spark exposure. The NGK's can be had cheaper though. I know many people throw them out after 100 hours. I'm thinking 100-150 should be just fine, based on how mine looked when removed. So far after a bunch of searching, I find you can buy them from Klaus for $2.95 each, but there's another place where they are available for $2.24 each, and the price goes down in quantity. I'm thinking of putting in an order for at least 60 of them, so I have a supply for a while, but I thought I'd ask if there is anyone else who's thought far enough ahead about this maintenance item to know that they'll want a bunch. I think the price will be down in the $1.58 range with that sized order. I was thinking as long as someone wanted to get at least 24 or 36 of them, I could order a bunch up and split the order with you. The only added cost would be the shipping to you from me, but if you consider the savings from $2.95, that quickly starts to pay for itself. Not sure I'll be doing this for anyone, but thought I'd put out a feeler. I love buying in bulk if I can save a few bucks. It just kind of caught me off guard that these plugs normally get tossed after a hundred hours by lots of people. Dan Checkoway says he goes 100 hours on his NGK's. Seems awfully short to me....that's like 6000 miles in your car, but oh well. I'm going to stretch mine out to a cleaning at 100 and replace at the next major de-cowling after 100. For my bottom plugs, by the way, I've ordered some Iridium fine wire Unison plugs from Skygeek.com They're a bunch more than the regular massive electrode plugs, but they're also much more exposed and open so the flamefront has less quenching. I'll probably just sell off my old UREM40E's after I'm running on the new ones and I can get myself a spare for the road...or maybe sell 4 of them and keep 2 spares with the old ones. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive




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