Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:30 AM - Re: Tunnel damage from rudder cable (Rob Kermanj)
2. 04:04 AM - Re: Cylinder Cooling Improvement (Tim Olson)
3. 04:09 AM - Re: Cylinder Cooling Improvement (Tim Olson)
4. 04:23 AM - Re: Cylinder Cooling Improvement (Tim Olson)
5. 07:02 AM - Re: Baggage door seal (Nikolaos Napoli)
6. 07:05 AM - Hole for break fitting in landing gear mount (Nikolaos Napoli)
7. 07:31 AM - Re: Hole for break fitting in landing gear mount (Rick)
8. 07:45 AM - Re: Hole for break fitting in landing gear mount (CNM)
9. 07:54 AM - Brake Reservoir(s) on Pedals? (Eric Parlow)
10. 08:25 AM - How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? (jdalton77)
11. 08:46 AM - Re: Hole for break fitting in landing gear mount (Nikolaos Napoli)
12. 08:54 AM - Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 09:06 AM - Weld 10 source (Michael Kraus)
14. 09:17 AM - Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? (Michael Kraus)
15. 09:34 AM - Re: Tunnel damage from rudder cable (John W. Cox)
16. 09:39 AM - Re: Blast tube for Alternator (Deems Davis)
17. 09:47 AM - Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? (Deems Davis)
18. 09:55 AM - Another Copperstate Nugget! (Deems Davis)
19. 10:29 AM - Re: Cylinder Cooling Improvement (Jon Reining)
20. 10:52 AM - Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? (John Gonzalez)
21. 11:09 AM - Re: Another Copperstate Nugget! (John Jessen)
22. 11:09 AM - Empannage gap seal. (John Gonzalez)
23. 11:27 AM - Re: Another Copperstate Nugget! (James K Hovis)
24. 03:42 PM - Re: Empennage gap seal. (Carl Froehlich)
25. 04:12 PM - closing out floors and wire running (Chris Johnston)
26. 04:17 PM - closing out floors and wire running (Chris Johnston)
27. 04:29 PM - Re: closing out floors and wire running (Tim Olson)
28. 04:41 PM - Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
29. 04:43 PM - Re: Empennage gap seal. (John Gonzalez)
30. 04:44 PM - Re: Baggage door seal (Marcus Cooper)
31. 07:13 PM - Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? (Chris)
32. 07:31 PM - Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? (David McNeill)
33. 10:27 PM - Re: Empennage gap seal. (John Gonzalez)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Tunnel damage from rudder cable |
This was a condition that I experienced. I am not sure why my
passenger pedal rubbed against the tunnel skin (left rudder). I have
since shorten the hanging rod and used spacers in the blocks to move
the pedal to the right. I am using the rear most mounting holes for
the pedals which would create the most space between the pedal and
the tunnel.
I saw this condition developing during construction but ignored it
thinking that, since everything else fit so well, this will would
work it's way as I installed the tunnel cover.
So, my recommendation is to trial-fit the pedals before you rivet the
front cover.
Rob Kermanj
On Oct 29, 2006, at 11:29 AM, John Hasbrouck wrote:
> A while back there was a posting regarding damage to the tunnel
> side wall from the rudder cables where they attach to the rudder
> pedals. I don't remember a resolution to this issue. I'm at the
> point of mounting the rudder pedals to the airframe and wondered if
> the problem was due to using the more forward of the mounting
> points for the rudder bearing blocks. Since the tunnel tapers as
> you move aft I surmise the more aft mounting point for the rudder
> blocks would give more clearance. Was this a one time problem?
> Those flying, what position did you use for the rudder pedals? I'm
> 6' 3" and guess that I'd like as much room for my legs as possible.
>
> John
> #40264
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That was a great job glassing the area behind the governor. I wish
I would have looked closer at that area when I was doing the cowl,
but I guess the rest of the baffling looked so good I overlooked
that whole area. You should have it licked in that area. I
may still add some RTV to mine so it seals tight against that
governor too.
I don't see any problem why if your arm lines up better on the outside
that you couldn't do it that way. Mine lined up better on the inside.
All I can think is that maybe your ramps were cut or drilled
differently or something, causing the shift, otherwise it would
seem like with these prepunched kits, we'd all be in the same spot.
But, if it works for you, it should be fine.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> Great suggestions Tim on the cooling. I had already siliconed the
> baffle seal and aluminum baffling between the rivets but did not
> consider between the cylinders. We also closed in the top cowl around
> the prop governor with glass so the baffling can seal up against it vs
> letting the air escape out. (pic attached) I attached the prop
> governor cable on the outside of the governor arm and I see others have
> it attached on the inside between the governor housing and the arm. The
> governor cable lined up much nicer that way as it came through the air
> ramp. Is there any reason why I need to attach it the way you did?
>
> Dean 40449
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi Werner, that's just the Ultra Blue Oxygen sensor safe stuff
from Permtex...all auto parts places and wal-marts carry it.
Nothing too special. I used red in a lot of places, and it
was superior for attaching wires to things for vibration protection.
I used copper in some areas, as it had some of the hottest
temp ratings. I fell back to blue this time just because
I like blue. ;) I guess I'm not too worried if the color
scheme under there is all varied, as long as it works.
For what it's worth, the reason I decided I didn't need copper
again was just that if your hottest CHT's are going to be
around 400 degrees, and that's in the hottest part of the
head, then 650 degree rated stuff should work fine out
by the tips of the fins. I could have used it a lot of
other places too. There are places where I'd still use
the copper or red though if you're near the really hot
areas.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Werner Schneider wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> just wondering about this blue type of RTV, any more infos, I, so far
> did know only about the red high temp RTV.
>
> thanks for a feedback
>
> br Werner
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
One thing I forgot to mention or take photos of (I'll fix that
in a day or two), is that I also trimmed, *again*, my 2 air dams
in from of the front cylinders. I have now removed most of the
dam in front of the very top part of the cylinder head, but left
about 1" or slightly more of the dam in front of the taller
fins about 3" down from the top of the cylinders. Seeing as
how the temps are very even between 1,2,5,6 now, I think this is
getting to be pretty nice.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> Great suggestions Tim on the cooling. I had already siliconed the
> baffle seal and aluminum baffling between the rivets but did not
> consider between the cylinders. We also closed in the top cowl around
> the prop governor with glass so the baffling can seal up against it vs
> letting the air escape out. (pic attached) I attached the prop
> governor cable on the outside of the governor arm and I see others have
> it attached on the inside between the governor housing and the arm. The
> governor cable lined up much nicer that way as it came through the air
> ramp. Is there any reason why I need to attach it the way you did?
>
> Dean 40449
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door seal |
Thanks again Jesse,=0A=0AI am ordering it today.=0A=0ADo not archive=0A =0A
Niko Napoli=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Jesse Saint <jes
se@itecusa.org>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, October 28,
2006 10:13:22 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage door seal=0A=0A=0AThe n
ice thing about the P seal is that you can use the flat or the bubble, depe
nding on how much clearance you have. It seems to work well. One importan
t place to seal is along the hinge. I was in the back seat during a flight
(to OSH this year, I think) and felt back there and there was a ton of air
coming in through the top of the hinge. The P seal works great there beca
use you need something thicker to seal that gap.=0A =0AJesse Saint=0AI-TEC,
Inc.=0Ajesse@itecusa.org=0Awww.itecusa.org=0AW: 352-465-4545=0AC: 352-427-
0285=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv
10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli=0ASent: Saturday
, October 28, 2006 1:29 PM=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV1
0-List: Baggage door seal=0A =0AJesse,=0A =0AIt looks like its a bit larger
(1/4"thick x 3/8" wide)than Vans suggests (1/8" thick by 1/4"wide). Did
it work out well? Does it collapse to 1/8" thick? Is the door flush with
the surrounding skin?=0A =0AThanks for the info=0ANiko=0A40188=0A =0A-----
Original Message ----=0AFrom: Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org>=0ATo: rv10-li
st@matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 12:48:50 PM=0ASubject:
RE: RV10-List: Baggage door seal=0AWe have used this (05-01200 P-STRIP 17 F
T ROLL) from Spruce.=0A =0AJesse Saint=0AI-TEC, Inc.=0Ajesse@itecusa.org=0A
www.itecusa.org=0AW: 352-465-4545=0AC: 352-427-0285=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-
rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli=0ASent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 12:34 PM
=0ATo: Matronics=0ASubject: RV10-List: Baggage door seal=0A =0AI am looking
for a recommendation on the Baggage door seal. Aircraft Spruce doesn't se
em to have anything in the dimension Vans recommends.=0A =0A Do not archive
.=0ANiko=0A40188=0A =0A =0A =0A-- Release Date: 10/27/2006 =0A--=0A10/27
/2006=0Ahttp://www.matronics===============
=====0A =0A =0A =0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A-- Rel
========
Message 6
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| Subject: | Hole for break fitting in landing gear mount |
I tried to install the 45 degree break fitting thats on the lower skin/ lan
ding gear mount this morning. Thats the one which needs a 5/8 inch hole in
the skin. It appears that the hole in the landing gear mount is too small
for the fitting. There is no mention in the manual about having to enlarg
e the landing gear fitting hole.=0A=0AHas anyone else had this problem?=0A
=0AThanks =0ANiko Napoli=0A40188
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Hole for break fitting in landing gear mount |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Niko,
It's due to the powder coating, I used a Dremel tool to remove the coating and
it fit perfectly. I quick shot of gray primer to stop it from rusting should preceed
installing the fitting.
Rick S.
40185
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Hole for break fitting in landing gear mount |
just get the unibit on it
mine was the same
----- Original Message -----
From: Nikolaos Napoli
To: Matronics
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 7:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Hole for break fitting in landing gear mount
I tried to install the 45 degree break fitting thats on the lower
skin/ landing gear mount this morning. Thats the one which needs a 5/8
inch hole in the skin. It appears that the hole in the landing gear
mount is too small for the fitting. There is no mention in the manual
about having to enlarge the landing gear fitting hole.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks
Niko Napoli
40188
Message 9
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| Subject: | Brake Reservoir(s) on Pedals? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
Has anyone installed the brake master cylinder reservoir(s) directly on the
pedals instead of the single reservoir on the front side of the firewall?
I did this on my RV-8 and liked how it worked out.
ERic--
40014
Message 10
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| Subject: | How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? |
I just completed trimming and riveting the fairings on the HS, VS, and
Rudder and have little, if any, gap between the fairing and the skin. I
must have received a later batch because they fit pretty well with only
a need to trim the notches and a little length off the flange.
How many people are taking the time to glass over the gap? I can see
where it would look good, but does anyone think it's worth all the
effort?
Jeff
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Hole for break fitting in landing gear mount |
Thanks for the info.=0A =0ADo not archive=0A =0ANiko=0A40188 =0A=0A=0A=0A--
--- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>=0ATo: rv10-
list@matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, October 30, 2006 10:31:03 AM=0ASubject:
Re: RV10-List: Hole for break fitting in landing gear mount=0A=0A=0A--> RV1
0-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>=0A=0ANiko,=0A=0AIt'
s due to the powder coating, I used a Dremel tool to remove the coating and
it fit perfectly. I quick shot of gray primer to stop it from rusting shou
-========================
Message 12
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| Subject: | How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? |
I'll be doing mine and I have seen several other completed -10's have
also done it.
Michael
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jdalton77
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 10:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How many people are glassing their fiberglass
fairing gaps?
I just completed trimming and riveting the fairings on the HS, VS, and
Rudder and have little, if any, gap between the fairing and the skin. I
must have received a later batch because they fit pretty well with only
a need to trim the notches and a little length off the flange.
How many people are taking the time to glass over the gap? I can see
where it would look good, but does anyone think it's worth all the
effort?
Jeff
Message 13
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Does anyone know where I may find Weld 10 locally or what types of stores carry
it ir an equivalent for installing the window's on the -10?
Thanks
-Mike
Message 14
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| Subject: | How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing |
gaps?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
It add's time and weight to your plane, but it is one of those items that show
you pay attention to detail.
To each his own...
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
Sent: 10/30/06 11:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps?
I just completed trimming and riveting the fairings on the HS, VS, and Rudder and
have little, if any, gap between the fairing and the skin. I must have received
a later batch because they fit pretty well with only a need to trim the
notches and a little length off the flange.
How many people are taking the time to glass over the gap? I can see where it
would look good, but does anyone think it's worth all the effort?
Jeff
Message 15
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| Subject: | Tunnel damage from rudder cable |
Randy (#006) got a ding on his DAR inspection for the connection of the
rudder pedal cables to pedal attachment. It was in regards to bolt, nut
and cotter pin orientation. The DAR was concerned that footwear would
disengage the attachment over time.
One of my 200+ changes was to weld a horizontal tab off each inboard
vertical pedal mount (cutting away the factory vertical attachment)and
scribe an arced cut-out into the tunnel sidewalls. The objective was to
keep the cables straight inside of the tunnel. Connection was from
within the tunnel, eliminating the connecting hardware on the outside
sidewalls of the tunnel. Every bend and every inch of tubing increases
the resistance to the cable movement.
John
#40600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of John Hasbrouck
Sent: Sun 10/29/2006 8:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tunnel damage from rudder cable
A while back there was a posting regarding damage to the tunnel side
wall from the rudder cables where they attach to the rudder pedals. I
don't remember a resolution to this issue. I'm at the point of mounting
the rudder pedals to the airframe and wondered if the problem was due to
using the more forward of the mounting points for the rudder bearing
blocks. Since the tunnel tapers as you move aft I surmise the more aft
mounting point for the rudder blocks would give more clearance. Was
this a one time problem? Those flying, what position did you use for
the rudder pedals? I'm 6' 3" and guess that I'd like as much room for
my legs as possible.
John
#40264
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Blast tube for Alternator |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
FYI, I wrote to B&C regarding this question and whether it was a
recommendation for their alternators. I received their response today as
follows:.
Deems,
Whether an alternator needs a SCAT or not is part of the design of the
alternator. We have never recommended a SCAT nor do we have provisions
for one on the alternator. Our alternator is always mounted under the
cylinders of a Lycoming and we have not seen any heat related failures.
Some builders provide a SCAT anyway and just point it at the rear of the
alternator where the diodes are.
Tim Hedding
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing |
gaps?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
There was a Super 8 @ Copperstate this weekend, That not only all of his
fiberglass to metal seams glassed over but also all of his rivets
filled. his paint job (Candy Apple Green) and graphics were STELLAR!. I
can't imagine what it cost him in either time or $'s but it reflected
the attention and detail that the rest of the plane showed. I don't know
if he took any awards as I hear the Judges don't like to see filled
rivets. Unfortunately I was so wrapped up in conversation w/ John Cox,
that I neglected to get any pictures of it. But it was Beautiful.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Michael Kraus wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
>It add's time and weight to your plane, but it is one of those items that show
you pay attention to detail.
>
>To each his own...
>-Mike
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Sent: 10/30/06 11:25 AM
>Subject: RV10-List: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps?
>
>
>I just completed trimming and riveting the fairings on the HS, VS, and Rudder
and have little, if any, gap between the fairing and the skin. I must have received
a later batch because they fit pretty well with only a need to trim the
notches and a little length off the flange.
>
>How many people are taking the time to glass over the gap? I can see where it
would look good, but does anyone think it's worth all the effort?
>
>Jeff
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Another Copperstate Nugget! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Bill and Sara DeRouchey had their newly painted RV-10 @ Copperstate as
well, His paint scheme is a derivative of Van's 410 (only better) and
looks Terrific! But that's not the story. _Bill designed, built,
programmed and installed HIS OWN EFIS ! along with his own Air Data
Computer! _I had the pleasure of having him walk me through it in his
cockpit and it is AMAZING! Hopefully Bill will come up on the list and
respond, and add to the description. Bill, if you have any pics and are
ready to share them with the group please do so, what you've built is
impressive and deserves to be seen by the -10 builder community !
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jon Reining" <jonathan.w.reining@wellsfargo.com>
I recently read this article about cylinder temps that was interesting. Basically,
high CHT's increase cylinder head wear. It was surprising how much small
amounts mattered.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=71136#71136
Message 20
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| Subject: | How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Before I riveted my fairings to the wings on the VS and HS, I mixed a batch
of epoxy with microballons and placed some on the inside of the wing and on
the fairing itself, clecoed. Then I removed each clecoe and placed the pop
rivet. Then whiped the joint off with a sqwegy. The idea was to make this
area have no flex and to fill the gap so that later paint would not chip off
or crack. Any gap left after the whipe off can be filled with polyester
filler. Make sure to sand and clean all areas where the epoxy is going.
JOhn G. 409
>From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing
>gaps?
>Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 11:25:23 -0500
>
>
>I just completed trimming and riveting the fairings on the HS, VS, and
>Rudder and have little, if any, gap between the fairing and the skin. I
>must have received a later batch because they fit pretty well with only a
>need to trim the notches and a little length off the flange.
>
>How many people are taking the time to glass over the gap? I can see where
>it would look good, but does anyone think it's worth all the effort?
>
>Jeff
Message 21
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| Subject: | Another Copperstate Nugget! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
But we will all understand if he's trying to do something commercial with it
and wants it somewhat under exposed.
John J
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 9:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Another Copperstate Nugget!
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Bill and Sara DeRouchey had their newly painted RV-10 @ Copperstate as well,
His paint scheme is a derivative of Van's 410 (only better) and looks
Terrific! But that's not the story. _Bill designed, built, programmed and
installed HIS OWN EFIS ! along with his own Air Data Computer! _I had the
pleasure of having him walk me through it in his cockpit and it is AMAZING!
Hopefully Bill will come up on the list and respond, and add to the
description. Bill, if you have any pics and are ready to share them with the
group please do so, what you've built is impressive and deserves to be seen
by the -10 builder community !
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
--
--
Message 22
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| Subject: | Empannage gap seal. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Okay, I am going to do a public gripe.
I am just about to finish section 12 and was amazed at how my entire day
yesteray was spent placing nut plates on the VS and the HS. After
completing this I finally got to the area in the plans to finish the
empannage gap plate.
One page 12-5 there is a bolt typed warning the says, DO NOT DRILL SKINS OR
LONGERONS OF THE EMPANNAGE UNTIL PAGE 12-6.
The next step say dril one of the longeron holes. Go figure?????
Okay, so I left it for later.
Finally on to page 12-6 and things are flowing. I drill all the longeron
holes to #36, debur and bla,bla, bla.
Next step, drill to #27 the empanage gap plate holes and ....... My
daughter comes down to say we are going out to dinner and I go and drill the
longeron holes also to #27, (like we have been doing with the other areas
that received nutplates.) Now, I had read ahead the night before, and
realized these longeron hole would be taped to receive the screws directly,
but I kept remembering the entire time this warning as mentioned above.
Since these hole should never have been drilled to #27, WHY DID THIS WARNING
EVER SAY WHAT IT SAID???????
All is not lost, I had to order some 4mm flat head screws and a tap so that
the holes drilled to #27 in the longerons would not have to be enlarged
anymore. Unfortunately the head angle is 90 degrees and not 100 degrees but
I can fix this. I just didn't want to go up to #8 pan heads or use
nutplates on the inside of the longerons. Trying to not remove the HS and
disconnect the trim cables, again, again, again,.....
Good Grief Charlie Brown!!!!!!
John G.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Another Copperstate Nugget! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "James K Hovis" <james.k.hovis@gmail.com>
What would be great is give you a list of the hardware needed to build
the system and then supply the software to run it. 99% of the hardware
for EFIS systems is available on the market, the software to tie it
all together is a little more difficult for most of us to master....
JKH.
On 10/30/06, John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> But we will all understand if he's trying to do something commercial with it
> and wants it somewhat under exposed.
>
> John J
>
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 9:55 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Another Copperstate Nugget!
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> Bill and Sara DeRouchey had their newly painted RV-10 @ Copperstate as well,
> His paint scheme is a derivative of Van's 410 (only better) and looks
> Terrific! But that's not the story. _Bill designed, built, programmed and
> installed HIS OWN EFIS ! along with his own Air Data Computer! _I had the
> pleasure of having him walk me through it in his cockpit and it is AMAZING!
> Hopefully Bill will come up on the list and respond, and add to the
> description. Bill, if you have any pics and are ready to share them with the
> group please do so, what you've built is impressive and deserves to be seen
> by the -10 builder community !
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Empennage gap seal. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
Another option is to drill all the longeron holes out to #28 and install
nutplates. I did this on my RV-8A thinking that the soft aluminum threads
would strip out over time. I am doing the same with the RV-10.
Carl Froehlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 2:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Empannage gap seal.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Okay, I am going to do a public gripe.
I am just about to finish section 12 and was amazed at how my entire day
yesteray was spent placing nut plates on the VS and the HS. After
completing this I finally got to the area in the plans to finish the
empannage gap plate.
One page 12-5 there is a bolt typed warning the says, DO NOT DRILL SKINS OR
LONGERONS OF THE EMPANNAGE UNTIL PAGE 12-6.
The next step say dril one of the longeron holes. Go figure?????
Okay, so I left it for later.
Finally on to page 12-6 and things are flowing. I drill all the longeron
holes to #36, debur and bla,bla, bla.
Next step, drill to #27 the empanage gap plate holes and ....... My
daughter comes down to say we are going out to dinner and I go and drill the
longeron holes also to #27, (like we have been doing with the other areas
that received nutplates.) Now, I had read ahead the night before, and
realized these longeron hole would be taped to receive the screws directly,
but I kept remembering the entire time this warning as mentioned above.
Since these hole should never have been drilled to #27, WHY DID THIS WARNING
EVER SAY WHAT IT SAID???????
All is not lost, I had to order some 4mm flat head screws and a tap so that
the holes drilled to #27 in the longerons would not have to be enlarged
anymore. Unfortunately the head angle is 90 degrees and not 100 degrees but
I can fix this. I just didn't want to go up to #8 pan heads or use
nutplates on the inside of the longerons. Trying to not remove the HS and
disconnect the trim cables, again, again, again,.....
Good Grief Charlie Brown!!!!!!
John G.
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | closing out floors and wire running |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey Tim -
I was getting ready to close up my floors, and wondered about hooking up
coax for the comms on the belly. I noticed that you ran some tubing
through bushings - did you run the wire later? Did you have trouble
fishing the wire through the hole on the bottom skin when it came time
to install the antennae? I'm just a bit confused here and I don't want
to be drilling out rivets... also, if you had to do it differently -
would you change antenna choices at all?
Any thoughts are appreciated!
Thanks
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 26
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| Subject: | closing out floors and wire running |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Whoops - meant to send that to Tim Olson directly, but I'd appreciate
everyone's input as well!
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: closing out floors and wire running |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I ran the tubing down in that area so it would hopefully make the wire
shoot out of the tubing and real close to the exit hole. In practice,
it did take me 3 or 4 minutes to get the wire fished through, because
I was off a bit on the tubing angle, but it could be done more
accurately than I did without much work. I just grabbed it with one
of those little claw grabbing tools from an auto parts store and pulled
it right out. It makes for good future access to install the connector,
without having to have an access panel under the seat...which is another
option that some have done.
As for antenna choices, I can say that I'm *almost* 100% satisfied
with the antenna choices and locations. The only one that has been
giving me grief is my Comant combo antenna (WSI/GPS). That particular
antenna has failed once (the GPS part failed), and the replacement
has been acting the same now. I'd get them to swap it, but
hopefully within a couple short months I'll be installing a
new GPS/Sirius antenna for the upgraded WSI, so it'll be irrelevant.
Other than that, I don't have any complaints. I can't believe
how much better the range of my signals is than my old plane.
As for the wire under the rear seats, I've had another builder who
did it that way report back that he had great success too. So, just
try to do it as best you can so the wire exits near the hole, and
you'll be just fine. Remember that you'll have a 5/8-3/4" hole
or so for the exit, so there's room to grab a wire.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Chris Johnston wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Hey Tim -
>
> I was getting ready to close up my floors, and wondered about hooking up
> coax for the comms on the belly. I noticed that you ran some tubing
> through bushings - did you run the wire later? Did you have trouble
> fishing the wire through the hole on the bottom skin when it came time
> to install the antennae? I'm just a bit confused here and I don't want
> to be drilling out rivets... also, if you had to do it differently -
> would you change antenna choices at all?
>
> Any thoughts are appreciated!
>
> Thanks
> cj
> #40410
> fuse
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing gaps? |
In a message dated 10/30/06 1:56:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
indigoonlatigo@msn.com writes:
I mixed a batch of epoxy with microballons and placed some on the inside of
the wing and on the fairing itself, clecoed. Then I removed each clecoe and
placed the pop rivet. Then whiped the joint off with a sqwegy. The idea was
to make this
area have no flex and to fill the gap
Remember, micro-balloons are NOT structural, just sandable filler. If
you want to "prevent flexing", depending on the size and shape of the area,
use glass cloth or fill with foam and then cloth, then micro or use a flox
mix with resin, and just use micro-balloons for the surface filler.
Micro-balloons sand easier, but an unsupported micro-balloon mix on a flexible
surface
will crack with time.
(past Cozy Mark IV builder)
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 / C-170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell
Message 29
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| Subject: | Empennage gap seal. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
I am really trying to not remove the HS, elevators, bellcrank attachment
bolts, elevator trim cables to gain access to the longeron surfaces inside
the tailcone. I've taken all this apart too many times already. I think
because of the thickness of the longerons, 1/8" and the skin thickness, the
drilling would have to be done from inside the fuse, otherwise the I don't
trust my drilling to be square enough to the longeron surface both in a
fore/ aft and up/down dimensions to drill from the outside and cross through
the thickness of material to the inside and still be accurate.
The result might be a nutplate severly out of place from the original
drilled hole.
It seems the only reason we will be removing this gap cover in the future is
to change the rubber gasket. I thinks the threads will hold with some
threadlocker on them. Not planning on inspecting this area that often.
John G. 409
>From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Empennage gap seal.
>Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 18:41:40 -0500
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
>
>Another option is to drill all the longeron holes out to #28 and install
>nutplates. I did this on my RV-8A thinking that the soft aluminum threads
>would strip out over time. I am doing the same with the RV-10.
>
>Carl Froehlich
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 2:09 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Empannage gap seal.
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Okay, I am going to do a public gripe.
>
>I am just about to finish section 12 and was amazed at how my entire day
>yesteray was spent placing nut plates on the VS and the HS. After
>completing this I finally got to the area in the plans to finish the
>empannage gap plate.
>
>One page 12-5 there is a bolt typed warning the says, DO NOT DRILL SKINS OR
>LONGERONS OF THE EMPANNAGE UNTIL PAGE 12-6.
>
>The next step say dril one of the longeron holes. Go figure?????
>
>Okay, so I left it for later.
>
>Finally on to page 12-6 and things are flowing. I drill all the longeron
>holes to #36, debur and bla,bla, bla.
>
>Next step, drill to #27 the empanage gap plate holes and ....... My
>daughter comes down to say we are going out to dinner and I go and drill
>the
>longeron holes also to #27, (like we have been doing with the other areas
>that received nutplates.) Now, I had read ahead the night before, and
>realized these longeron hole would be taped to receive the screws directly,
>but I kept remembering the entire time this warning as mentioned above.
>Since these hole should never have been drilled to #27, WHY DID THIS
>WARNING
>EVER SAY WHAT IT SAID???????
>
>All is not lost, I had to order some 4mm flat head screws and a tap so that
>the holes drilled to #27 in the longerons would not have to be enlarged
>anymore. Unfortunately the head angle is 90 degrees and not 100 degrees but
>I can fix this. I just didn't want to go up to #8 pan heads or use
>nutplates on the inside of the longerons. Trying to not remove the HS and
>disconnect the trim cables, again, again, again,.....
>
>Good Grief Charlie Brown!!!!!!
>
>John G.
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Baggage door seal |
I ended up using some plain old weather stripping from Lowes Aircraft
Supply. It's two beads about 5/8" wide, white and works great (so far).
Marcus
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 12:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door seal
I am looking for a recommendation on the Baggage door seal. Aircraft Spruce
doesn't seem to have anything in the dimension Vans recommends.
Niko
40188
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing |
gaps?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
Seems to me filling rivet holes is contrary to building a metal plane. Lets
be proud of our rivets! Leave the filling of holes to the smoothy glass
ships.
-Chris L
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: How many people are glassing their fiberglass
fairing gaps?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> There was a Super 8 @ Copperstate this weekend, That not only all of his
> fiberglass to metal seams glassed over but also all of his rivets filled.
> his paint job (Candy Apple Green) and graphics were STELLAR!. I can't
> imagine what it cost him in either time or $'s but it reflected the
> attention and detail that the rest of the plane showed. I don't know if he
> took any awards as I hear the Judges don't like to see filled rivets.
> Unfortunately I was so wrapped up in conversation w/ John Cox, that I
> neglected to get any pictures of it. But it was Beautiful.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Michael Kraus wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus
>><n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>
>>It add's time and weight to your plane, but it is one of those items that
>>show you pay attention to detail.
>>
>>To each his own... -Mike
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Sent: 10/30/06 11:25 AM
>>Subject: RV10-List: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing
>>gaps?
>>
>>
>>
>>I just completed trimming and riveting the fairings on the HS, VS, and
>>Rudder and have little, if any, gap between the fairing and the skin. I
>>must have received a later batch because they fit pretty well with only a
>>need to trim the notches and a little length off the flange.
>>
>>How many people are taking the time to glass over the gap? I can see
>>where it would look good, but does anyone think it's worth all the effort?
>>
>>Jeff
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing |
gaps?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
The only place to cover the rivets with glass is when the rivets are in the
glass. For example if you do not put a layer of glass over the rivet heads
on the sides of the cowl hinges you will see them popping through the paint
in a couple hundred hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: How many people are glassing their fiberglass
fairing gaps?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
>
> Seems to me filling rivet holes is contrary to building a metal plane.
> Lets be proud of our rivets! Leave the filling of holes to the smoothy
> glass ships.
> -Chris L
> #40072
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 12:47 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: How many people are glassing their fiberglass
> fairing gaps?
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>>
>> There was a Super 8 @ Copperstate this weekend, That not only all of his
>> fiberglass to metal seams glassed over but also all of his rivets filled.
>> his paint job (Candy Apple Green) and graphics were STELLAR!. I can't
>> imagine what it cost him in either time or $'s but it reflected the
>> attention and detail that the rest of the plane showed. I don't know if
>> he took any awards as I hear the Judges don't like to see filled rivets.
>> Unfortunately I was so wrapped up in conversation w/ John Cox, that I
>> neglected to get any pictures of it. But it was Beautiful.
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>> Michael Kraus wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus
>>><n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>>
>>>It add's time and weight to your plane, but it is one of those items that
>>>show you pay attention to detail.
>>>
>>>To each his own... -Mike
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Sent: 10/30/06 11:25 AM
>>>Subject: RV10-List: How many people are glassing their fiberglass fairing
>>>gaps?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I just completed trimming and riveting the fairings on the HS, VS, and
>>>Rudder and have little, if any, gap between the fairing and the skin. I
>>>must have received a later batch because they fit pretty well with only a
>>>need to trim the notches and a little length off the flange.
>>>
>>>How many people are taking the time to glass over the gap? I can see
>>>where it would look good, but does anyone think it's worth all the
>>>effort?
>>>
>>>Jeff
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Empennage gap seal. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Carl,
On further investigation, I believe you have a valid point. I spent some
time this evening simulating the situation with materials of the same
thicknesses and determined that inorder to accept the dimples in the
empannage gap plates, the tail cone skin and the longerons would have to be
countersunk fairly deeply, which doesn't leave much material to make threads
into.
I may make my own nutplates out of rectangular 1/8" aluminum, then the
threads would have 1/8" plus the material left after the countersink is
complete. Those dimples in the plates sure take up some space.
John G.
>From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Empennage gap seal.
>Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 18:41:40 -0500
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
>
>Another option is to drill all the longeron holes out to #28 and install
>nutplates. I did this on my RV-8A thinking that the soft aluminum threads
>would strip out over time. I am doing the same with the RV-10.
>
>Carl Froehlich
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 2:09 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Empannage gap seal.
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Okay, I am going to do a public gripe.
>
>I am just about to finish section 12 and was amazed at how my entire day
>yesteray was spent placing nut plates on the VS and the HS. After
>completing this I finally got to the area in the plans to finish the
>empannage gap plate.
>
>One page 12-5 there is a bolt typed warning the says, DO NOT DRILL SKINS OR
>LONGERONS OF THE EMPANNAGE UNTIL PAGE 12-6.
>
>The next step say dril one of the longeron holes. Go figure?????
>
>Okay, so I left it for later.
>
>Finally on to page 12-6 and things are flowing. I drill all the longeron
>holes to #36, debur and bla,bla, bla.
>
>Next step, drill to #27 the empanage gap plate holes and ....... My
>daughter comes down to say we are going out to dinner and I go and drill
>the
>longeron holes also to #27, (like we have been doing with the other areas
>that received nutplates.) Now, I had read ahead the night before, and
>realized these longeron hole would be taped to receive the screws directly,
>but I kept remembering the entire time this warning as mentioned above.
>Since these hole should never have been drilled to #27, WHY DID THIS
>WARNING
>EVER SAY WHAT IT SAID???????
>
>All is not lost, I had to order some 4mm flat head screws and a tap so that
>the holes drilled to #27 in the longerons would not have to be enlarged
>anymore. Unfortunately the head angle is 90 degrees and not 100 degrees but
>I can fix this. I just didn't want to go up to #8 pan heads or use
>nutplates on the inside of the longerons. Trying to not remove the HS and
>disconnect the trim cables, again, again, again,.....
>
>Good Grief Charlie Brown!!!!!!
>
>John G.
>
>
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