Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:51 AM - Re: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!! (Rob Kermanj)
2. 03:56 AM - Re: Engine trouble shoots (Rob Kermanj)
3. 04:47 AM - Re: Engine trouble shoots (linn Walters)
4. 07:30 AM - Re: Engine trouble shoots (Jesse Saint)
5. 08:34 AM - Re: Wing and Fuselage Dolly (jdalton77)
6. 09:00 AM - Re: Overhead Console (johngoodman)
7. 09:22 AM - Re: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!! (Larry Rosen)
8. 10:48 AM - Archives and willingness to comment (John W. Cox)
9. 01:31 PM - Re: Overhead Console (zackrv8)
10. 04:36 PM - Re: Engine trouble shoots/Update (DejaVu)
11. 04:56 PM - Re: tailcone (Larry Rosen)
12. 05:04 PM - Re: AFS primer (Eddie G.)
13. 05:15 PM - Re: tailcone rear nav light & static system (Larry Rosen)
14. 05:15 PM - Re: tailcone rear nav light & static system (Larry Rosen)
15. 07:05 PM - Re: tailcone (Sean Blair)
16. 07:57 PM - Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # (Tim Olson)
17. 08:25 PM - Re: tailcone (Tim Olson)
18. 08:32 PM - Cables and heat (Tim Olson)
19. 08:43 PM - Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # (Kevin Belue)
20. 10:28 PM - Re: tailcone (Larry Rosen)
21. 10:28 PM - Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!! |
Congratulations! Short building time, was it a QB Kit?
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 3, 2006, at 11:35 PM, gengrumpy@aol.com wrote:
> Please pardon if in insult any of you.
>
> I am pleased to announce that N184JM, RV#40404, Rv-10, achieved
> first flight today, 3 Nov06. I got the DAR release from Mel,
> yesterday (who did the 2 beautiful birds in CO last year)
> yesterday. Mel was an absolute wonderful set of eyes to find
> things I had overlooked, and cleared me for flight yesterday. I
> strongly recommed Mel (Dallas Area) for any RV-10 clearances!
>
> Let me digress a little about N184JM.
>
> I began work on 184JM in June of 05 with the tail kit. (That's
> after my wife DeSha decided I should do this, prodeed by help from
> old AF friends.....). I decided to do my build in TX although we
> live in TN. Why did we do this???
>
> Our good, long time friend Paul Orf lives in TX, and over several
> bottles of Beefeaters he convinced me that we should build this
> bird in his hangar facility in TX. He claimed that he had all the
> tools, so it would be easy and it wouldn't cost me as much....
>
> So, the tooth fairy said what?????
>
> 18 months later, uncountable trips to TX, and wearing thin on my
> friends (and after we drained numeroous Beefeters bottles), N184JM
> flew on 3 Nov 2006.
>
> Today, I put 2 sorties on her, for a total of about 3.5 hrs total.
> Aerosport Power built IO-540 engine, special built 2 bladed prop by
> Johnnie Downs, the best prop guy in TX (now in Arkansas).
>
> Minor hiccups (as expected). Panel is from Davd Buckwalter of
> Avionice Systems in Leesburg, VA. Dual Cheltons plus GRT 6000 EIS.
>
> Programming manuals from both GRT and Cheltons are the pits.
> After lots of time on the phone, get all the bugs worked out.
> Except the AHRS from Chelton that has been promised for months
> now.....all I have is wires behind the bulkhead....
>
> However, once past the GRT and Chelton obligitory time on the
> phone, and all are set up.....
>
> Wonderful displays - BOTH. Can't wait to get my AHRS from Chelton
> to complete the setup.
>
> But, for those of you who really want to know what it's like to
> finally fly the RV-10...........It's superb.
>
> I have a data point or two to reference from.....F-105, A-7D, F-16A/
> B/C/D, F-117. F-15...
>
> So, Grumpy, what the hell are you telling me?
>
> The RV-10 is an outstanding airplane! Flies with fingers
> only....responds beautifully to all inputs. Flies formation almost
> like the Thunderbirds (thrust, not controls.....). Beautifully
> handling and forgiving airframe.
>
> Try it......you'll like it!
>
> Now....who's going to help me with the interior<<<
>
> Check 6 - Grumpy
>
> P.S., Thanks for the checkout, Alex!!!!
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Engine trouble shoots |
You might want to wait before making idle mixture adjustments if you
have new engine. My engine idled really rough during the ground run
ups but did fine after the engine loosened up.
do not archive
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 3, 2006, at 11:59 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
>
> DejaVu wrote:
>> Ran my engine again today with two new Slicks. Below is the
>> summary. I would appreciate if anyone can provide insights to the
>> troublesome numbers.
>> 1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off.
>> 2.3psi with the boost pump on. A little low don't you think?
> Right for carb, low by factor of ten for injection.
>
>> 2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal.
>> 3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up
>> with this?
> Not too high. EGT relates to mixture, not power output. You can
> achieve same EGT at 1700 as at cruise, but at 1700 it isn't
> important, because you are at way below 50 percent power.
>> 4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the
>> first inch as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal?
> Yes, you are putting more load on the engine with constant power.
>> 5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in
>> rpm before the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the
>> adjustment on the fuel servo one full turn in the direction of the
>> "R-->"caused the engine to run rough and quit after a few seconds
>> at 1700rpm. That was pro'ly too aggressive an adjustment but did
>> I turn it in the correct direction?
> Something else is involved. Adjusting the idle mixture one turn
> should not affect your partial power much, but if you have Bendix/
> Precision injection 1 full turn is too much. Make adjustments one
> notch at a time. Quarter turn is likely what you needed.
>> 6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS.
>> Hall effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT
>> switch didn't appear to make a difference. Will check wiring.
>> BTW, she weighed in at 1625lbs.
>> Anh
>> #141
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Engine trouble shoots |
DejaVu wrote:
> Ran my engine again today with two new Slicks. Below is the summary.
> I would appreciate if anyone can provide insights to the troublesome
> numbers.
>
> 1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi
> with the boost pump on. A little low don't you think?
Yes
> 2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal.
Yup
> 3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with this?
EGT is useless as a finite number. Too many variables exist to know
what the 'real number' is. Location of the probe is the biggest
variable. I've seen changes in EGT in different spots around the tube
as sell as distance from the flange.
> 4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first
> inch as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal?
Could be .... read on!
> 5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm
> before the engine quits - engine runs lean.
Maybe.
> Richened the adjustment on the fuel servo one full turn in the
> direction of the "R-->"caused the engine to run rough and quit after a
> few seconds at 1700rpm. That was pro'ly too aggressive an adjustment
> but did I turn it in the correct direction?
Well, not necessarily. The engine could have been too rich to start
with and didn't get to a good, lean mixture before idle cutoff. Flies
in the face of conventional wisdom, I know. You'll have to play with
this and experiment a lot. Have someone look at the exhaust when you
start up/shut down. You may be able to see black smoke if it's rich.
Small R/L changes and slow (real slow) mixture control changes will
make the task take longer but are more meaningful. Changes in EGT will
tell you a lot. Let us know just what the outcome is!
> 6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS.
> Hall effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch
> didn't appear to make a difference. Will check wiring.
Best guess is that you don't have 'field' voltage. You should be able
to measure the same 11.7V (or real close) at the field terminal, with
the master and alt switch on.
> BTW, she weighed in at 1625lbs.
I hope someone's keeping track of this item! It'll be interesting to
see how empty weight changes the performance.
Linn
do not archive
>
> Anh
> #141
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Engine trouble shoots |
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots
Ran my engine again today with two new Slicks. Below is the summary. I
would appreciate if anyone can provide insights to the troublesome
numbers.
1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi
with
the boost pump on. A little low don't you think? If it truly is that
number, that would definitely be a little low. My question would be,
=93are
you absolutely sure you have the right sensor and the right sensor
setting
in your engine monitor?=94 Would the engine even start with this low of
fuel
pressure.
2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal. This
doesn=92t seem normal if your fuel pressure is truly 2.2PSI. Again,
check
that fuel pressure sensor.
3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with
this?
Try swapping sensors on 1&5 with 2&4 and see if you still get the same
high
readings. If so, then try hooking up the wires for 2 to the sensor for
6
(while it is still in 6) and see if it still reads that high. If so,
then
you either have bad sensors or bad wiring.
4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first
inch
as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal? No clue whatsoever.
5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm
before
the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on the fuel
servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the engine to
run
rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was pro'ly too
aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct direction?
6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS. Hall
effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch didn't
appear
to make a difference. Will check wiring. The Alt field (as Van=92s
calls it)
switch makes about 3-5 Amps difference in my current draw on the Dynon
ammeter shunt. Are you sure the alternator is working? If not, that
would
account for your low voltage, probably. You shouldn=92t be drawing 4
amps
when the alternator is running, unless your sensor is in a place where
you
would see all current draw in the system not accounting for the amount
of
charging you are getting. We have ours setup between the battery and
the
bus/alternator (it sounds like this is where yours is) and it shows
total/overall current into or out of the battery.
BTW, she weighed in at 1625lbs. With or without the pilot? :-)
Anh
#141
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
11/3/2006
--
11/3/2006
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wing and Fuselage Dolly |
Wing and Fuselage DollyI bought two last week when I saw the add. They
also have a 10% off coupon in their most recent mailer - so I got them
for $26.99. Hard to build it for that.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 6:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing and Fuselage Dolly
Harbor Freight is offering a 1,000 pound capacity, Model 94778 Dolly
capable of being easily converted into a slick wing dolly or fuselage
rotisserie. Can be used for inverting aircraft fuselage and completing
difficult riveting, interior canopy sanding or instrument wiring tasks -
inverted.
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/94000-94999/94778.pdf price is
$29.99 and worthy of competition to the wood unit displayed on Tim's
site. No affiliation or business dealings, just information - "don't
shoot the messenger".
John Cox
#40600
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
It's a little early for me to commit (still doing elevators), but it looks interesting
to me. Is there any head clearance issue with the back seat passengers?
John
--------
#40572 Empennage - starting Elevators!
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72269#72269
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Congratulations!
I know it is not the highest on your priorities while flying the first
few hours, but how is Accuracy Avionics overhead console working out.
Are you getting enough air?
Larry Rosen
#356
gengrumpy@aol.com wrote:
> Please pardon if in insult any of you.
>
> I am pleased to announce that N184JM, RV#40404, Rv-10, achieved first
> flight today, 3 Nov06. I got the DAR release from Mel, yesterday (who
> did the 2 beautiful birds in CO last year) yesterday. Mel was an
> absolute wonderful set of eyes to find things I had overlooked, and
> cleared me for flight yesterday. I strongly recommed Mel (Dallas
> Area) for any RV-10 clearances!
>
> Let me digress a little about N184JM.
>
> I began work on 184JM in June of 05 with the tail kit. (That's after
> my wife DeSha decided I should do this, prodeed by help from old AF
> friends.....). I decided to do my build in TX although we live in
> TN. Why did we do this???
>
> Our good, long time friend Paul Orf lives in TX, and over several
> bottles of Beefeaters he convinced me that we should build this bird
> in his hangar facility in TX. He claimed that he had all the tools,
> so it would be easy and it wouldn't cost me as much....
>
> So, the tooth fairy said what?????
>
> 18 months later, uncountable trips to TX, and wearing thin on my
> friends (and after we drained numeroous Beefeters bottles), N184JM
> flew on 3 Nov 2006.
>
> Today, I put 2 sorties on her, for a total of about 3.5 hrs total.
> Aerosport Power built IO-540 engine, special built 2 bladed prop by
> Johnnie Downs, the best prop guy in TX (now in Arkansas).
>
> Minor hiccups (as expected). Panel is from Davd Buckwalter of
> Avionice Systems in Leesburg, VA. Dual Cheltons plus GRT 6000 EIS.
>
> Programming manuals from both GRT and Cheltons are the pits. After
> lots of time on the phone, get all the bugs worked out. Except the
> AHRS from Chelton that has been promised for months now.....all I have
> is wires behind the bulkhead....
>
> However, once past the GRT and Chelton obligitory time on the phone,
> and all are set up.....
>
> Wonderful displays - BOTH. Can't wait to get my AHRS from Chelton to
> complete the setup.
>
> But, for those of you who really want to know what it's like to
> finally fly the RV-10...........It's superb.
>
> I have a data point or two to reference from.....F-105, A-7D,
> F-16A/B/C/D, F-117. F-15...
>
> So, Grumpy, what the hell are you telling me?
>
> The RV-10 is an outstanding airplane! Flies with fingers
> only....responds beautifully to all inputs. Flies formation almost
> like the Thunderbirds (thrust, not controls.....). Beautifully
> handling and forgiving airframe.
>
> Try it......you'll like it!
>
> Now....who's going to help me with the interior<<<
>
> Check 6 - Grumpy
>
> P.S., Thanks for the checkout, Alex!!!!
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *
>
>
> *
_-
_-
_-
_-
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Archives and willingness to comment |
I was sharing with a few fellow RV-10 builders (over breakfast at EAA
Chapter 105 - VANS) on an observation of silence on the reflector
lately. I will be forwarding a cash contribution to Matt Draille cause
his site is so valuable to this build process. I have also thanked Bob
Collins for his work on his web newsletter. However, when builders have
queried lately, their responses go unanswered or with tepid response.
Don't get me wrong, the answers although few, are of value. It's just
with 50 + flying birds and 100 builders at the exact same stage of
build, are we just a bunch of Lurkers? That leaves 500 who must be
so-oo very busy that their contribution has little value over individual
build progress.
Maybe those archives are getting a workout? Any opinion, before I go
back to the silence?
And, Tim they appreciate your back channel transmission on their
questions. It is just a trend which creates concern over the winter.
Deems you get a Get Outa Jail card due to the wedding. Anh, I hope your
answers are of value.
John Cox
#40600
Do not Archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
John,
No clearance problems for the rear seat pax. I have been in and out several
times and my head doesn't even come close. When I first tried to stick a DVD
player in it, I did have rear seat pax issues. After talking to Scott Schmidt,
I decided to put my DVD screens/player in the rear of the front seats.
There is plenty of head clearance with this overhead console. As a matter of
fact, there is so much that we are doing another model just a little bit wider
(because there is plenty of headroom).
There is plenty of space underneath the console to hide GPS antennas and such.
I'll take some more pics of the second prototype and post them as soon as I can.
Zack
johngoodman wrote:
> It's a little early for me to commit (still doing elevators), but it looks interesting
to me. Is there any head clearance issue with the back seat passengers?
> John
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72290#72290
_-
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Engine trouble shoots/Update |
Thanks to all who chimed in. Ran the engine (0SMOH D4A5) again today
with the help of
a local mechanic. Below are updates, only item 3 is still problematic:
1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi
with the boost pump on. A little low don't you think?
Reprograming the EIS-6000 fixed it.
2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal. Still
the same
3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with
this?
Same reading today. The mechanic confirmed CHT's on #2 &4 are also
higher than the rest.
He felt for sure there's a small lint or something inside the #2 and #4
injector lines going
to the fuel distributor on top of the engine. He was surprised that I
don't have a
gascolator. Anyone installed a gascolator? and where is a convenient
place to put it that
gives access for draining. And what kind of filter is that that came
with Van's fuel pump
(Fuel Flow Performance). i.e. do you need a gascolator on top of this
filter?
4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first
inch as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal? No update.
5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm
before the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on
the fuel servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the
engine to run rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was
pro'ly too aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct
direction?
Yesterday I though the engine ran lean. Today the mechanic thought my
engine rans rich.
Minor leaning of the mixture resulted in a small 20rmp rise before the
engine quits.
I couldn't hear the 20rpm difference but he did.
6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS.
Hall effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch
didn't appear to make a difference. Will check wiring.
Loose plug on the back of the alternator. Didn't realize there's a
locking tab on
top of the plug to prevent it from backing out. It read 14.5V/4Amp
today.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 10:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 11:03 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots
Ran my engine again today with two new Slicks. Below is the summary.
I would appreciate if anyone can provide insights to the troublesome
numbers.
1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi
with the boost pump on. A little low don't you think? If it truly is
that number, that would definitely be a little low. My question would
be, =93are you absolutely sure you have the right sensor and the right
sensor setting in your engine monitor?=94 Would the engine even start
with this low of fuel pressure.
2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal.
This doesn=92t seem normal if your fuel pressure is truly 2.2PSI.
Again, check that fuel pressure sensor.
3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with
this? Try swapping sensors on 1&5 with 2&4 and see if you still get the
same high readings. If so, then try hooking up the wires for 2 to the
sensor for 6 (while it is still in 6) and see if it still reads that
high. If so, then you either have bad sensors or bad wiring.
4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first
inch as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal? No clue
whatsoever.
5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm
before the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on
the fuel servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the
engine to run rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was
pro'ly too aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct
direction?
6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS.
Hall effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch
didn't appear to make a difference. Will check wiring. The Alt field
(as Van=92s calls it) switch makes about 3-5 Amps difference in my
current draw on the Dynon ammeter shunt. Are you sure the alternator is
working? If not, that would account for your low voltage, probably.
You shouldn=92t be drawing 4 amps when the alternator is running, unless
your sensor is in a place where you would see all current draw in the
system not accounting for the amount of charging you are getting. We
have ours setup between the battery and the bus/alternator (it sounds
like this is where yours is) and it shows total/overall current into or
out of the battery.
BTW, she weighed in at 1625lbs. With or without the pilot? J
Anh
#141
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List -- Release Date:
11/3/2006
--
11/3/2006
Message 11
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
There should be lots of stuff in the archives addressing these issues.
But, here is some.
*You can see how Deems the static tubing here
<http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2035%20Access%20covers%20and%20Floor%20panels/index.html>
look at pictures DSC03048, 49 & 50. The only change I would make is I
would put the tee from the two ports in the center, with the outlet up.
__l__
Look here for some photo's from Tim's site.
<http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html>. Small
kids work well if you wait until after the fuse is attached and the
canopy is on. (Hay Tim remember those days when you were a BUILDER). If
you look close you can see some of the wiring and static lines.
Dan has a tip to use some 1/4" id tubing from a hardware store as an
anti chafe on the tubing. Here:
<http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html> Some
routings here:
<http://www.rvproject.com/20030210.html>
<http://www.rvproject.com/20030212.html>
<http://www.rvproject.com/20030831.html>
Larry Rosen
#356
Sean Blair wrote:
>
> Does anyone have good pics of the inside of the tailcone showing how
> you plumbed the static lines, wire runs and/or conduit, coax, etc.?
> This would really help.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> (40225)
>
> *
>
>
> *
_-
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_-
_-
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_-
Message 12
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eddie G." <silentlight@verizon.net>
I got some info from Sanchem today, but wasn't much help. Do you clean with Safeguard
CC-6100C and then apply AFS gray, or do you apply CC-6100A+B after the
CC-6100C and before AFS?
Thanx...
[quote="Todd.Stovall(at)pentagon."]I just got through priming my VS, Rudder, and
the rear spar to the HS this weekend. I used the AFS gray primer/sealer and
liked the results. My application wasn't perfect, but I honestly believe it
was my technique ( or lack there of) that was the culprit. I chose AFS because
it's water based so lower flammability issues (I'm working in my basement),
lower fumes, and toxicity. I still wore a mask, but no one upstairs complained
and I did have a window and door open with a fan running. I really can't
rank it because I haven't used anything else, but it was easy to apply (Harbor
Freight HVLP gun) and cleanup. I'm going to start smashing rivets tonight
so I'll let you know how it holds up to that process. So I tentatively give
it a thumbs up, but we'll see for sure after I abuse it a little.
FYI, I also chose to go the Sanchem route vs. alodine, again trying to avoid
toxic chemicals to maximum extent possible. This was also easy to use, but it
didn't give me a warm fuzzy that the treatment is actually took. The color
change was pretty uneven in places and on the whole, very light. I followed
the directions to the letter so hopefully all is well, but there's know way
to know for sure.
Todd
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72319#72319
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Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: tailcone rear nav light & static system |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Not flying but.....
The only rear nav/strobe light I know of is the Whelen from vans.
Periheliondesign has an expensive ($139) retrofit to convert the nav
light to led here <http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledlights.htm>
Static ports from
Cleaveland,
Vans pop rivet style,
Evans Aviation <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/Other%20Products.htm>
Safe Air 1 <http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm>
See some info on my web site here: <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/options.html>
Larry Rosen
#356
Dave Leikam wrote:
> For those who are flying, what are your opinions for the best choice
> for a static system and rudder lighting? Thanks.
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> tailcone in clecos
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Sean Blair <mailto:seanblair@adelphia.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, November 03, 2006 7:55 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: tailcone
>
> Does anyone have good pics of the inside of the tailcone showing
> how you plumbed the static lines, wire runs and/or conduit, coax,
> etc.? This would really help.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> (40225)
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
_-
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_-
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: tailcone rear nav light & static system |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Not flying but.....
The only rear nav/strobe light I know of is the Whelen from vans.
Periheliondesign has an expensive ($139) retrofit to convert the nav
light to led here <http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledlights.htm>
Static ports from
Cleaveland,
Vans pop rivet style,
Evans Aviation <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/Other%20Products.htm>
Safe Air 1 <http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm>
See some info on my web site here: <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/options.html>
Larry Rosen
#356
Dave Leikam wrote:
> For those who are flying, what are your opinions for the best choice
> for a static system and rudder lighting? Thanks.
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> tailcone in clecos
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Sean Blair <mailto:seanblair@adelphia.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, November 03, 2006 7:55 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: tailcone
>
> Does anyone have good pics of the inside of the tailcone showing
> how you plumbed the static lines, wire runs and/or conduit, coax,
> etc.? This would really help.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> (40225)
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
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Message 15
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
Thanks, Larry.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
There should be lots of stuff in the archives addressing these issues.
But, here is some.
*You can see how Deems the static tubing here
<http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2035%20Access%20covers%20and%20Floor%20p
anels/index.html>
look at pictures DSC03048, 49 & 50. The only change I would make is I
would put the tee from the two ports in the center, with the outlet up.
__l__
Look here for some photo's from Tim's site.
<http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html>. Small
kids work well if you wait until after the fuse is attached and the
canopy is on. (Hay Tim remember those days when you were a BUILDER). If
you look close you can see some of the wiring and static lines.
Dan has a tip to use some 1/4" id tubing from a hardware store as an
anti chafe on the tubing. Here:
<http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html> Some
routings here:
<http://www.rvproject.com/20030210.html>
<http://www.rvproject.com/20030212.html>
<http://www.rvproject.com/20030831.html>
Larry Rosen
#356
Sean Blair wrote:
>
> Does anyone have good pics of the inside of the tailcone showing how
> you plumbed the static lines, wire runs and/or conduit, coax, etc.?
> This would really help.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> (40225)
>
> *
>
>
> *
_-
_-
_-
_-
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_-
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Is there anyone with a non-assembled or accessible cleaveland
brake set that can tell me which linings are the ones required
for our brakes? Here's the aircraft spruce pages:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
I'd like to put in an order and get some winter project supplies
stocked up, and thought I'd do the brakes soon. I've been
a bit hard on them this year. Once I get the part number and
replace them, I'll post it on my site for future reference. I'm
compiling a list of common replacement part numbers and torque
specs and such, so we have a reference while doing maintenance.
Brake linings should be part of this...but mine are hard to
get to now.
Today I filled up my mains with winter air (you know, you have
to change it twice a year up here in the north country ;) )
and found that the tire wear is definitely much greater on the
outer stripe of the tire. My left main has a lot of that outer
stripe worn down, while the rest of the tire is pretty good yet.
It looks like the tire will be changed based on the outer
area wearing....not the overall tread being gone. I also
have a low spot on each main....probably from a little slide
or being too quick to slow down with the brakes some time
a long time ago. I've noticed a slight bumping while taxi for
a while now and could tell it was the tires.
Thanks in advance for the part check!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 170+ hrs
do not archive
_-
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_-
_-
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_-
Message 17
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Those kids are definitely handy. Not too long ago I had to glue in
one of the un-stuck tie-wrap bases in the tail. I had the wife
glue it and lay a lead shot weight on it until it dried. The next
day I had the smallest kid just walk back there and grab the weight.
It's almost as good as having a shrinking machine! If you don't
have a pair of these fantastic tools, you should get some. :)
I guess I'm not as much of a builder anymore. Do you call it
a built-er then? I know I'm for sure a maintain-er.
It's been fun!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Larry Rosen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> There should be lots of stuff in the archives addressing these issues.
> But, here is some.
>
> *You can see how Deems the static tubing here
> <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2035%20Access%20covers%20and%20Floor%20panels/index.html>
>
> look at pictures DSC03048, 49 & 50. The only change I would make is I
> would put the tee from the two ports in the center, with the outlet up.
> __l__
>
> Look here for some photo's from Tim's site.
> <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html>. Small
> kids work well if you wait until after the fuse is attached and the
> canopy is on. (Hay Tim remember those days when you were a BUILDER). If
> you look close you can see some of the wiring and static lines.
>
> Dan has a tip to use some 1/4" id tubing from a hardware store as an
> anti chafe on the tubing. Here:
> <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html> Some
> routings here:
> <http://www.rvproject.com/20030210.html>
> <http://www.rvproject.com/20030212.html>
> <http://www.rvproject.com/20030831.html>
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
>
>
>
> Sean Blair wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone have good pics of the inside of the tailcone showing how
>> you plumbed the static lines, wire runs and/or conduit, coax, etc.?
>> This would really help.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Sean Blair
>>
>> (40225)
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 18
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.
I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark
plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check
all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.
I found one thing and now have a suggestion. My prop governor
cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge
of the heat muff area. You could tell from the sagging green
plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.
The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok. I'm
sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected
from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel
sheath. My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape
to provide some reflection of the heat. I think I should have
taken one more step though. I have some fiberous, very high
temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick. I should have wrapped
the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with
the aluminum tape.
My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed
when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat
shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around
a couple areas of his exhaust. He had them near one of
the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for
protection for the lines. I think this would be a good idea
in a couple areas. So, as you're assembling the engine area,
take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within
3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.
I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding
for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
_-
_-
_-
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_-
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue@charter.net>
Tim,
I checked my brake calipers and they are part # 30-59E. The brake lining
listed for this caliper on Cleveland's website is part # 66-112.
I couldn't find a Rapco lining for this caliper.
Kevin Belue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 9:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Is there anyone with a non-assembled or accessible cleaveland
> brake set that can tell me which linings are the ones required
> for our brakes? Here's the aircraft spruce pages:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
>
> I'd like to put in an order and get some winter project supplies
> stocked up, and thought I'd do the brakes soon. I've been
> a bit hard on them this year. Once I get the part number and
> replace them, I'll post it on my site for future reference. I'm
> compiling a list of common replacement part numbers and torque
> specs and such, so we have a reference while doing maintenance.
> Brake linings should be part of this...but mine are hard to
> get to now.
>
> Today I filled up my mains with winter air (you know, you have
> to change it twice a year up here in the north country ;) )
> and found that the tire wear is definitely much greater on the
> outer stripe of the tire. My left main has a lot of that outer
> stripe worn down, while the rest of the tire is pretty good yet.
> It looks like the tire will be changed based on the outer
> area wearing....not the overall tread being gone. I also
> have a low spot on each main....probably from a little slide
> or being too quick to slow down with the brakes some time
> a long time ago. I've noticed a slight bumping while taxi for
> a while now and could tell it was the tires.
>
> Thanks in advance for the part check!
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 170+ hrs
> do not archive
>
>
>
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 20
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Tim,
Thought you would get a kick looking at those pictures.
Larry
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Those kids are definitely handy. Not too long ago I had to glue in
> one of the un-stuck tie-wrap bases in the tail. I had the wife
> glue it and lay a lead shot weight on it until it dried. The next
> day I had the smallest kid just walk back there and grab the weight.
> It's almost as good as having a shrinking machine! If you don't
> have a pair of these fantastic tools, you should get some. :)
>
> I guess I'm not as much of a builder anymore. Do you call it
> a built-er then? I know I'm for sure a maintain-er.
>
> It's been fun!
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Larry Rosen wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>>
>> There should be lots of stuff in the archives addressing these
>> issues. But, here is some.
>>
>> *You can see how Deems the static tubing here
>> <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2035%20Access%20covers%20and%20Floor%20panels/index.html>
>>
>> look at pictures DSC03048, 49 & 50. The only change I would make is I
>> would put the tee from the two ports in the center, with the outlet
>> up. __l__
>>
>> Look here for some photo's from Tim's site.
>> <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html>. Small
>> kids work well if you wait until after the fuse is attached and the
>> canopy is on. (Hay Tim remember those days when you were a BUILDER).
>> If you look close you can see some of the wiring and static lines.
>>
>> Dan has a tip to use some 1/4" id tubing from a hardware store as an
>> anti chafe on the tubing. Here:
>> <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html> Some
>> routings here:
>> <http://www.rvproject.com/20030210.html>
>> <http://www.rvproject.com/20030212.html>
>> <http://www.rvproject.com/20030831.html>
>>
>> Larry Rosen
>> #356
>>
>>
>>
>> Sean Blair wrote:
>>>
>>> Does anyone have good pics of the inside of the tailcone showing how
>>> you plumbed the static lines, wire runs and/or conduit, coax, etc.?
>>> This would really help.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sean Blair
>>>
>>> (40225)
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks Kevin,
Surprising that not only do we use one of the brake linings that Rapco
doesn't make, but they're also some of the most expensive types.
The wheels must have been cheap, 'cuz it's not like them to go with
the expensive stuff.
After getting your message, I searched them up and it looks like
to do the entire plane would cost 4 linings at just under $15 each.
Before I order I'm going to make sure that it isn't quantity of
2 that we need in case they're sold in pairs and when they give
the quantity required it's for doing both wheels.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Kevin Belue wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue@charter.net>
>
> Tim,
>
> I checked my brake calipers and they are part # 30-59E. The brake lining
> listed for this caliper on Cleveland's website is part # 66-112.
> I couldn't find a Rapco lining for this caliper.
>
> Kevin Belue
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 9:57 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Is there anyone with a non-assembled or accessible cleaveland
>> brake set that can tell me which linings are the ones required
>> for our brakes? Here's the aircraft spruce pages:
>>
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
>>
>> I'd like to put in an order and get some winter project supplies
>> stocked up, and thought I'd do the brakes soon. I've been
>> a bit hard on them this year. Once I get the part number and
>> replace them, I'll post it on my site for future reference. I'm
>> compiling a list of common replacement part numbers and torque
>> specs and such, so we have a reference while doing maintenance.
>> Brake linings should be part of this...but mine are hard to
>> get to now.
>>
>> Today I filled up my mains with winter air (you know, you have
>> to change it twice a year up here in the north country ;) )
>> and found that the tire wear is definitely much greater on the
>> outer stripe of the tire. My left main has a lot of that outer
>> stripe worn down, while the rest of the tire is pretty good yet.
>> It looks like the tire will be changed based on the outer
>> area wearing....not the overall tread being gone. I also
>> have a low spot on each main....probably from a little slide
>> or being too quick to slow down with the brakes some time
>> a long time ago. I've noticed a slight bumping while taxi for
>> a while now and could tell it was the tires.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for the part check!
>>
>> --
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 170+ hrs
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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