Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 05:47 AM - Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # (Kelly McMullen)
2. 06:29 AM - Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # (Tim Olson)
3. 06:46 AM - Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # (Kevin Belue)
4. 07:08 AM - Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # (Tim Olson)
5. 09:26 AM - Re: Re: AFS primer (Stovall Todd Lt Col AF/A4RX)
6. 10:16 AM - Re: Cables and heat (zackrv8)
7. 12:06 PM - Re: Re: Cables and heat (Tim Olson)
8. 12:13 PM - uneven tire wear (David McNeill)
9. 03:34 PM - Re: Engine trouble shoots/Update (Marcus Cooper)
10. 03:34 PM - Re: Re: Cables and heat (John Lenhardt)
11. 05:09 PM - Re: Re: Cables and heat (Marcus Cooper)
12. 06:00 PM - Re: Re: Cables and heat (JSMcGrew@AOL.COM)
13. 07:01 PM - Fuel Selector Valve Operation (DejaVu)
14. 07:23 PM - Re: Cables and heat (zackrv8)
15. 07:27 PM - Re: Fuel Selector Valve Operation (zackrv8)
16. 11:10 PM - aileron throw (Steven DiNieri)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
Might be worth sending Rapco an email. If they knew there was an
upcoming demand for 600 aircraft within a couple years, they might get
interested in producing those particular pads, especially if they were
only for experimentals.
On 11/4/06, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Thanks Kevin,
> Surprising that not only do we use one of the brake linings that Rapco
> doesn't make, but they're also some of the most expensive types.
> The wheels must have been cheap, 'cuz it's not like them to go with
> the expensive stuff.
>
> After getting your message, I searched them up and it looks like
> to do the entire plane would cost 4 linings at just under $15 each.
> Before I order I'm going to make sure that it isn't quantity of
> 2 that we need in case they're sold in pairs and when they give
> the quantity required it's for doing both wheels.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Kevin Belue wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue@charter.net>
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > I checked my brake calipers and they are part # 30-59E. The brake lining
> > listed for this caliper on Cleveland's website is part # 66-112.
> > I couldn't find a Rapco lining for this caliper.
> >
> > Kevin Belue
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 9:57 PM
> > Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
> >
> >
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >>
> >> Is there anyone with a non-assembled or accessible cleaveland
> >> brake set that can tell me which linings are the ones required
> >> for our brakes? Here's the aircraft spruce pages:
> >>
> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
> >>
> >> I'd like to put in an order and get some winter project supplies
> >> stocked up, and thought I'd do the brakes soon. I've been
> >> a bit hard on them this year. Once I get the part number and
> >> replace them, I'll post it on my site for future reference. I'm
> >> compiling a list of common replacement part numbers and torque
> >> specs and such, so we have a reference while doing maintenance.
> >> Brake linings should be part of this...but mine are hard to
> >> get to now.
> >>
> >> Today I filled up my mains with winter air (you know, you have
> >> to change it twice a year up here in the north country ;) )
> >> and found that the tire wear is definitely much greater on the
> >> outer stripe of the tire. My left main has a lot of that outer
> >> stripe worn down, while the rest of the tire is pretty good yet.
> >> It looks like the tire will be changed based on the outer
> >> area wearing....not the overall tread being gone. I also
> >> have a low spot on each main....probably from a little slide
> >> or being too quick to slow down with the brakes some time
> >> a long time ago. I've noticed a slight bumping while taxi for
> >> a while now and could tell it was the tires.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance for the part check!
> >>
> >> --
> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 170+ hrs
> >> do not archive
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
DONE! Now we'll see if they listen.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
>
> Might be worth sending Rapco an email. If they knew there was an
> upcoming demand for 600 aircraft within a couple years, they might get
> interested in producing those particular pads, especially if they were
> only for experimentals.
>
> On 11/4/06, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Thanks Kevin,
>> Surprising that not only do we use one of the brake linings that Rapco
>> doesn't make, but they're also some of the most expensive types.
>> The wheels must have been cheap, 'cuz it's not like them to go with
>> the expensive stuff.
>>
>> After getting your message, I searched them up and it looks like
>> to do the entire plane would cost 4 linings at just under $15 each.
>> Before I order I'm going to make sure that it isn't quantity of
>> 2 that we need in case they're sold in pairs and when they give
>> the quantity required it's for doing both wheels.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Kevin Belue wrote:
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue@charter.net>
>> >
>> > Tim,
>> >
>> > I checked my brake calipers and they are part # 30-59E. The brake
>> lining
>> > listed for this caliper on Cleveland's website is part # 66-112.
>> > I couldn't find a Rapco lining for this caliper.
>> >
>> > Kevin Belue
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> > Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 9:57 PM
>> > Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>> >
>> >
>> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>> >>
>> >> Is there anyone with a non-assembled or accessible cleaveland
>> >> brake set that can tell me which linings are the ones required
>> >> for our brakes? Here's the aircraft spruce pages:
>> >>
>> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
>> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
>> >>
>> >> I'd like to put in an order and get some winter project supplies
>> >> stocked up, and thought I'd do the brakes soon. I've been
>> >> a bit hard on them this year. Once I get the part number and
>> >> replace them, I'll post it on my site for future reference. I'm
>> >> compiling a list of common replacement part numbers and torque
>> >> specs and such, so we have a reference while doing maintenance.
>> >> Brake linings should be part of this...but mine are hard to
>> >> get to now.
>> >>
>> >> Today I filled up my mains with winter air (you know, you have
>> >> to change it twice a year up here in the north country ;) )
>> >> and found that the tire wear is definitely much greater on the
>> >> outer stripe of the tire. My left main has a lot of that outer
>> >> stripe worn down, while the rest of the tire is pretty good yet.
>> >> It looks like the tire will be changed based on the outer
>> >> area wearing....not the overall tread being gone. I also
>> >> have a low spot on each main....probably from a little slide
>> >> or being too quick to slow down with the brakes some time
>> >> a long time ago. I've noticed a slight bumping while taxi for
>> >> a while now and could tell it was the tires.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks in advance for the part check!
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 170+ hrs
>> >> do not archive
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue@charter.net>
What's strange is the Aircraft Spruce catalog shows a picture of the Rapco
version but it is not listed in their parts list.
Kevin Belue
RV10 finish
RV6A flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
>
> Might be worth sending Rapco an email. If they knew there was an
> upcoming demand for 600 aircraft within a couple years, they might get
> interested in producing those particular pads, especially if they were
> only for experimentals.
>
> On 11/4/06, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Thanks Kevin,
>> Surprising that not only do we use one of the brake linings that Rapco
>> doesn't make, but they're also some of the most expensive types.
>> The wheels must have been cheap, 'cuz it's not like them to go with
>> the expensive stuff.
>>
>> After getting your message, I searched them up and it looks like
>> to do the entire plane would cost 4 linings at just under $15 each.
>> Before I order I'm going to make sure that it isn't quantity of
>> 2 that we need in case they're sold in pairs and when they give
>> the quantity required it's for doing both wheels.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Kevin Belue wrote:
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue@charter.net>
>> >
>> > Tim,
>> >
>> > I checked my brake calipers and they are part # 30-59E. The brake
>> > lining
>> > listed for this caliper on Cleveland's website is part # 66-112.
>> > I couldn't find a Rapco lining for this caliper.
>> >
>> > Kevin Belue
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> > Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 9:57 PM
>> > Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>> >
>> >
>> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>> >>
>> >> Is there anyone with a non-assembled or accessible cleaveland
>> >> brake set that can tell me which linings are the ones required
>> >> for our brakes? Here's the aircraft spruce pages:
>> >>
>> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
>> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
>> >>
>> >> I'd like to put in an order and get some winter project supplies
>> >> stocked up, and thought I'd do the brakes soon. I've been
>> >> a bit hard on them this year. Once I get the part number and
>> >> replace them, I'll post it on my site for future reference. I'm
>> >> compiling a list of common replacement part numbers and torque
>> >> specs and such, so we have a reference while doing maintenance.
>> >> Brake linings should be part of this...but mine are hard to
>> >> get to now.
>> >>
>> >> Today I filled up my mains with winter air (you know, you have
>> >> to change it twice a year up here in the north country ;) )
>> >> and found that the tire wear is definitely much greater on the
>> >> outer stripe of the tire. My left main has a lot of that outer
>> >> stripe worn down, while the rest of the tire is pretty good yet.
>> >> It looks like the tire will be changed based on the outer
>> >> area wearing....not the overall tread being gone. I also
>> >> have a low spot on each main....probably from a little slide
>> >> or being too quick to slow down with the brakes some time
>> >> a long time ago. I've noticed a slight bumping while taxi for
>> >> a while now and could tell it was the tires.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks in advance for the part check!
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 170+ hrs
>> >> do not archive
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That photo must be just similar, but not the same. I see even on
Rapco's site they don't list a match for 30-59E.
http://www.rapcoinc.com/pdf/kits.pdf
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Kevin Belue wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue@charter.net>
>
> What's strange is the Aircraft Spruce catalog shows a picture of the
> Rapco version but it is not listed in their parts list.
>
> Kevin Belue
> RV10 finish
> RV6A flying
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
>>
>> Might be worth sending Rapco an email. If they knew there was an
>> upcoming demand for 600 aircraft within a couple years, they might get
>> interested in producing those particular pads, especially if they were
>> only for experimentals.
>>
>> On 11/4/06, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>> Thanks Kevin,
>>> Surprising that not only do we use one of the brake linings that Rapco
>>> doesn't make, but they're also some of the most expensive types.
>>> The wheels must have been cheap, 'cuz it's not like them to go with
>>> the expensive stuff.
>>>
>>> After getting your message, I searched them up and it looks like
>>> to do the entire plane would cost 4 linings at just under $15 each.
>>> Before I order I'm going to make sure that it isn't quantity of
>>> 2 that we need in case they're sold in pairs and when they give
>>> the quantity required it's for doing both wheels.
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> Kevin Belue wrote:
>>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue@charter.net>
>>> >
>>> > Tim,
>>> >
>>> > I checked my brake calipers and they are part # 30-59E. The brake >
>>> lining
>>> > listed for this caliper on Cleveland's website is part # 66-112.
>>> > I couldn't find a Rapco lining for this caliper.
>>> >
>>> > Kevin Belue
>>> >
>>> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> > Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 9:57 PM
>>> > Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>> >>
>>> >> Is there anyone with a non-assembled or accessible cleaveland
>>> >> brake set that can tell me which linings are the ones required
>>> >> for our brakes? Here's the aircraft spruce pages:
>>> >>
>>> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
>>> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
>>> >>
>>> >> I'd like to put in an order and get some winter project supplies
>>> >> stocked up, and thought I'd do the brakes soon. I've been
>>> >> a bit hard on them this year. Once I get the part number and
>>> >> replace them, I'll post it on my site for future reference. I'm
>>> >> compiling a list of common replacement part numbers and torque
>>> >> specs and such, so we have a reference while doing maintenance.
>>> >> Brake linings should be part of this...but mine are hard to
>>> >> get to now.
>>> >>
>>> >> Today I filled up my mains with winter air (you know, you have
>>> >> to change it twice a year up here in the north country ;) )
>>> >> and found that the tire wear is definitely much greater on the
>>> >> outer stripe of the tire. My left main has a lot of that outer
>>> >> stripe worn down, while the rest of the tire is pretty good yet.
>>> >> It looks like the tire will be changed based on the outer
>>> >> area wearing....not the overall tread being gone. I also
>>> >> have a low spot on each main....probably from a little slide
>>> >> or being too quick to slow down with the brakes some time
>>> >> a long time ago. I've noticed a slight bumping while taxi for
>>> >> a while now and could tell it was the tires.
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks in advance for the part check!
>>> >>
>>> >> --
>>> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 170+ hrs
>>> >> do not archive
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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|
Eddie,
Clean with the "C", rinse, mix the "A" & "B" 1:1, apply, rinse and let
air dry. Shooting with compressed iar will speed the process, just make
sure you are wearing gloves when handling the parts so you don't
contaminate them. Within 12 hours apply the AFS primer. This is the
same sequense if you were using alumiprep (which I'm going to try next
time vs. the "C" product), alodine, and any Brand-x epoxy primer.
Todd
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Eddie G.
Sent: Sat 11/4/2006 8:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AFS primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eddie G." <silentlight@verizon.net>
I got some info from Sanchem today, but wasn't much help. Do you clean
with Safeguard CC-6100C and then apply AFS gray, or do you apply
CC-6100A+B after the CC-6100C and before AFS?
Thanx...
[quote="Todd.Stovall(at)pentagon."]I just got through priming my VS,
Rudder, and the rear spar to the HS this weekend. I used the AFS gray
primer/sealer and liked the results. My application wasn't perfect, but
I honestly believe it was my technique ( or lack there of) that was the
culprit. I chose AFS because it's water based so lower flammability
issues (I'm working in my basement), lower fumes, and toxicity. I still
wore a mask, but no one upstairs complained and I did have a window and
door open with a fan running. I really can't rank it because I haven't
used anything else, but it was easy to apply (Harbor Freight HVLP gun)
and cleanup. I'm going to start smashing rivets tonight so I'll let
you know how it holds up to that process. So I tentatively give it a
thumbs up, but we'll see for sure after I abuse it a little.
FYI, I also chose to go the Sanchem route vs. alodine, again trying to
avoid toxic chemicals to maximum extent possible. This was also easy
to use, but it didn't give me a warm fuzzy that the treatment is
actually took. The color change was pretty uneven in places and on the
whole, very light. I followed the directions to the letter so
hopefully all is well, but there's know way to know for sure.
Todd
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72319#72319
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
Tim,
Where my throttle/mixture cables get close to the exhaust on my RV8, I wrapped
them in firesleeve. Definetly would be a bummer if these cables melted and
were not able to move.
Zack
Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
> I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.
> I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark
> plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check
> all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.
>
> I found one thing and now have a suggestion. My prop governor
> cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge
> of the heat muff area. You could tell from the sagging green
> plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.
> The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok. I'm
> sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected
> from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel
> sheath. My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape
> to provide some reflection of the heat. I think I should have
> taken one more step though. I have some fiberous, very high
> temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick. I should have wrapped
> the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with
> the aluminum tape.
>
> My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed
> when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat
> shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around
> a couple areas of his exhaust. He had them near one of
> the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for
> protection for the lines. I think this would be a good idea
> in a couple areas. So, as you're assembling the engine area,
> take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within
> 3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.
> I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding
> for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Absolutely! That's why I brought it up...it's a possible safety gotcha.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
zackrv8 wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
>
> Tim,
>
> Where my throttle/mixture cables get close to the exhaust on my RV8, I wrapped
them in firesleeve. Definetly would be a bummer if these cables melted and
were not able to move.
>
> Zack
>
>
>
> Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
>> I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.
>> I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark
>> plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check
>> all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.
>>
>> I found one thing and now have a suggestion. My prop governor
>> cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge
>> of the heat muff area. You could tell from the sagging green
>> plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.
>> The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok. I'm
>> sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected
>> from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel
>> sheath. My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape
>> to provide some reflection of the heat. I think I should have
>> taken one more step though. I have some fiberous, very high
>> temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick. I should have wrapped
>> the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with
>> the aluminum tape.
>>
>> My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed
>> when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat
>> shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around
>> a couple areas of his exhaust. He had them near one of
>> the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for
>> protection for the lines. I think this would be a good idea
>> in a couple areas. So, as you're assembling the engine area,
>> take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within
>> 3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.
>> I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding
>> for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | uneven tire wear |
For the flying 10s: Are the tires wearing evenly? Any uneven wear on the
outboard edges of the mains? Trying to get some idea whether the toein
for the 10 is properly set by the factory legs and pilot holes.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Engine trouble shoots/Update |
X-Mailer: Microsoft Office Outlook 11
I've got some thoughts on two of your issues. The gascolator is no factor
and I think very few (if any) are installing them on the -10. My DAR (a
very experienced guy that runs an A&P university) said since our fuel sump
drains are the absolute lowest point in the system then a gascolator
wouldn't be of any benefit. Mostly important for high wing airplanes.
On the prop control movement, I have a thought but it's not based on
anything scientific. I have the same response, although not quite a full
inch before the prop responds. Since the prop is in high RPM and therefore
full flat, it's the throttle that's increasing the RPM, since we stop it at
whatever RPM you do your run-up at, then you are going to have to move the
prop control back far enough to get to the point where it would finally
command less RPM than you already have. Even at 2200 RPM you have to move
it a ways before anything happens since it would happily be allowing
2500-2700 depending on the engine if there was enough power available. Hope
that makes sense. If not, perhaps you can just rest well knowing that it's
all probably just fine. If you get the same response at a full power static
run, then I would say something was amiss.
Marcus
40286 - rapidly approaching 100 hours TT
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots/Update
Thanks to all who chimed in. Ran the engine (0SMOH D4A5) again today with
the help of
a local mechanic. Below are updates, only item 3 is still problematic:
1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi
with the boost pump on. A little low don't you think?
Reprograming the EIS-6000 fixed it.
2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal. Still the
same
3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with this?
Same reading today. The mechanic confirmed CHT's on #2 &4 are also higher
than the rest.
He felt for sure there's a small lint or something inside the #2 and #4
injector lines going
to the fuel distributor on top of the engine. He was surprised that I don't
have a
gascolator. Anyone installed a gascolator? and where is a convenient place
to put it that
gives access for draining. And what kind of filter is that that came with
Van's fuel pump
(Fuel Flow Performance). i.e. do you need a gascolator on top of this
filter?
4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first
inch as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal? No update.
5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm
before the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on
the fuel servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the
engine to run rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was
pro'ly too aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct
direction?
Yesterday I though the engine ran lean. Today the mechanic thought my
engine rans rich.
Minor leaning of the mixture resulted in a small 20rmp rise before the
engine quits.
I couldn't hear the 20rpm difference but he did.
6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS.
Hall effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch
didn't appear to make a difference. Will check wiring.
Loose plug on the back of the alternator. Didn't realize there's a locking
tab on
top of the plug to prevent it from backing out. It read 14.5V/4Amp today.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 10:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots
Ran my engine again today with two new Slicks. Below is the summary. I
would appreciate if anyone can provide insights to the troublesome numbers.
1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi with
the boost pump on. A little low don't you think? If it truly is that
number, that would definitely be a little low. My question would be, "are
you absolutely sure you have the right sensor and the right sensor setting
in your engine monitor?" Would the engine even start with this low of fuel
pressure.
2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal. This
doesn't seem normal if your fuel pressure is truly 2.2PSI. Again, check
that fuel pressure sensor.
3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with this?
Try swapping sensors on 1&5 with 2&4 and see if you still get the same high
readings. If so, then try hooking up the wires for 2 to the sensor for 6
(while it is still in 6) and see if it still reads that high. If so, then
you either have bad sensors or bad wiring.
4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first inch
as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal? No clue whatsoever.
5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm before
the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on the fuel
servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the engine to run
rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was pro'ly too
aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct direction?
6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS. Hall
effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch didn't appear
to make a difference. Will check wiring. The Alt field (as Van's calls it)
switch makes about 3-5 Amps difference in my current draw on the Dynon
ammeter shunt. Are you sure the alternator is working? If not, that would
account for your low voltage, probably. You shouldn't be drawing 4 amps
when the alternator is running, unless your sensor is in a place where you
would see all current draw in the system not accounting for the amount of
charging you are getting. We have ours setup between the battery and the
bus/alternator (it sounds like this is where yours is) and it shows
total/overall current into or out of the battery.
BTW, she weighed in at 1625lbs. With or without the pilot? :-)
Anh
#141
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-- Release Date: 11/3/2006
--
11/3/2006
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2869
Another way to address the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header
with exhaust heat wrap. A friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the
lower cowling on his RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes
from the discoloring of the inside. He used exhaust/header heat wrap
with great success. It's available at your local auto parts stores like
Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc. They come in various widths and lengths.
He used the 1" x 50' roll for about $35. Here's a weblink to one:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrco
de=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: zackrv8
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
--> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
Tim,
Where my throttle/mixture cables get close to the exhaust on my RV8,
I wrapped them in firesleeve. Definetly would be a bummer if these
cables melted and were not able to move.
Zack
Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
> I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.
> I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark
> plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check
> all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.
>
> I found one thing and now have a suggestion. My prop governor
> cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge
> of the heat muff area. You could tell from the sagging green
> plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.
> The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok. I'm
> sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected
> from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel
> sheath. My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape
> to provide some reflection of the heat. I think I should have
> taken one more step though. I have some fiberous, very high
> temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick. I should have wrapped
> the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with
> the aluminum tape.
>
> My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed
> when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat
> shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around
> a couple areas of his exhaust. He had them near one of
> the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for
> protection for the lines. I think this would be a good idea
> in a couple areas. So, as you're assembling the engine area,
> take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within
> 3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.
> I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding
> for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
X-Mailer: Microsoft Office Outlook 11
I used some similar stuff on my Q-2 a long time ago and have a question for
the group. I was cautioned after the fact about the wrap possibly holding
moisture and causing long term problems for the pipes. As I think about it,
holding moisture on something that gets really stinkin' hot is somewhat
doubtful in my mind but I was wondering if anyone else had hear similar or
other concerns about wrapping the pipes.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
Another way to address the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header with
exhaust heat wrap. A friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the lower
cowling on his RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes from the
discoloring of the inside. He used exhaust/header heat wrap with great
success. It's available at your local auto parts stores like Advance Auto,
Auto Zone, etc. They come in various widths and lengths. He used the 1" x
50' roll for about $35. Here's a weblink to one:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B
<http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode=D
EI&mfrpartnumber=010101> &mfrcode=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: zackrv8 <mailto:zackrv8@verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
--> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
Tim,
Where my throttle/mixture cables get close to the exhaust on my RV8, I
wrapped them in firesleeve. Definetly would be a bummer if these cables
melted and were not able to move.
Zack
Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
> I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.
> I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark
> plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check
> all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.
>
> I found one thing and now have a suggestion. My prop governor
> cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge
> of the heat muff area. You could tell from the sagging green
> plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.
> The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok. I'm
> sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected
> from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel
> sheath. My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape
> to provide some reflection of the heat. I think I should have
> taken one more step though. I have some fiberous, very high
> temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick. I should have wrapped
> the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with
> the aluminum tape.
>
> My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed
> when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat
> shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around
> a couple areas of his exhaust. He had them near one of
> the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for
> protection for the lines. I think this would be a good idea
> in a couple areas. So, as you're assembling the engine area,
> take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within
> 3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.
> I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding
> for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5330
For what it's worth: I remember in the literature included with the
Vetterman exhaust system, Larry warned against using automotive pipe wrap on
his
exhausts.
Jim
In a message dated 11/5/2006 8:13:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
coop85@bellsouth.net writes:
I used some similar stuff on my Q-2 a long time ago and have a question for
the group. I was cautioned after the fact about the wrap possibly holding
moisture and causing long term problems for the pipes. As I think about it
,
holding moisture on something that gets really stinkin=99 hot is some
what
doubtful in my mind but I was wondering if anyone else had hear similar or
other
concerns about wrapping the pipes.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
____________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-se
rver@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
Another way to address the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header with
exhaust heat wrap. A friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the lower
cowling on his RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes from the
discoloring of the inside. He used exhaust/header heat wrap with great su
ccess. It's
available at your local auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc
.
They come in various widths and lengths. He used the 1" x 50' roll for
about $35. Here's a weblink to one:
_http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode
=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101_
(http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode
=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101)
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: _zackrv8_ (mailto:zackrv8@verizon.net)
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
--> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <_zackrv8@verizon.net_
(mailto:zackrv8@verizon.net) >
Tim,
Where my throttle/mixture cables get close to the exhaust on my RV8, I
wrapped them in firesleeve. Definetly would be a bummer if these cables me
lted
and were not able to move.
Zack
Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
> I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.
> I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark
> plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check
> all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.
>
> I found one thing and now have a suggestion. My prop governor
> cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge
> of the heat muff area. You could tell from the sagging green
> plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.
> The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok. I'm
> sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected
> from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel
> sheath. My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape
> to provide some reflection of the heat. I think I should have
> taken one more step though. I have some fiberous, very high
> temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick. I should have wrapped
> the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with
> the aluminum tape.
>
> My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed
> when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat
> shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around
> a couple areas of his exhaust. He had them near one of
> the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for
> protection for the lines. I think this would be a good idea
> in a couple areas. So, as you're assembling the engine area,
> take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within
> 3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.
> I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding
> for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
_http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416_
(http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416)
www.aeroelectric.com
www.kitlog.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
m/)
l
dersbooks.com/)
(http://www.homebuilthelp.com/)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List)
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fuel Selector Valve Operation |
I have a stock selector valve. Fuel lines were installed by the book,
expecting that the lever would operate pointing upward. i.e. up and
left for left tank, up and right for right tank. I expected that it
would also work with it pointing down and left or right. Well, I only
get good fuel flow with it pointing down/left and down/right. I thought
the design was simply two tunnels in the valve shaft in a "+" shape so
that it would work in any of the four positions. Any idea why it didn't
work pointing upward?
Anh
#141
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
Scooter,
Roger that. I talked to Larry on the phone for about 15 minutes on this very
subject. He is totally against wrapping the pipes and also against coating the
pipes. I can't remember the exact converstaion (it was before LOE 2006), but
it has something to do with the pipes being a heat sink on an aircooled engine.
Zack
quote="ScooterF15"]For what it's worth: I remember in the literature included with
the Vetterman exhaust system, Larry warned against using automotive pipe
wrap on his exhausts.
Jim
In a message dated 11/5/2006 8:13:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, coop85@bellsouth.net
writes:
[quote]
I used some similar stuff on my Q-2 a long time ago and have a question for
the group. I was cautioned after the fact about the wrap possibly holding
moisture and causing long term problems for the pipes. As I think about it,
holding moisture on something that gets really stinkin hot is somewhat doubtful
in my mind but I was wondering if anyone else had hear similar or other
concerns about wrapping the pipes.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Cables and heat
Another way to address the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header with exhaust heat wrap.? A friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the lower cowling on his RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes from the discoloring of the inside. He used exhaust/header heat wrap with great success. It's available at your local auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc. They come in various widths and lengths. He used the 1" x 50' roll for about $35. Here's a weblink to one: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101 (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101)
John Lenhardt
#40262
>
> ---
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72512#72512
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Valve Operation |
Deja,
I think the "pointer" end of the fuel slector valve that comes with Van's kits
is supposed to filed down (not totally sure though). The longer "handle" end
becomes your handle AND pointer. Of course, I have an Andair valve and am not
totally sure if this is correct.
Zack
quote="wvu(at)ameritel.net"]I have a stock selector valve. Fuel lines were installed
by the book, expecting that the lever would operate pointing upward.
i.e. up and left for left tank, up and right for right tank. I expected that
it would also work with it pointing down and left or right. Well, I only
get good fuel flow with it pointing down/left and down/right. I thought the
design was simply two tunnels in the valve shaft in a "+" shape so that it would
work in any of the four positions. Any idea why it didn't work pointing
upward?
Anh
#141
> [b]
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72513#72513
Message 16
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Can anyone (rv10) with their wings on tell me how much throw is in
the control stick in the aileron direction? Probably be easiest to just
measure from left sidewall to the stick deflected to the left and the
distance from the left sidewall to the stick with right deflection of
aileron. I'm scratch building a panel and need to ensure clearance.. thx
Steve d
40205
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