Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:14 AM - Wow, Cool! New List Feature... [Please Read] (Matt Dralle)
2. 02:44 AM - Turbo Subaru (EAAINC@aol.com)
3. 04:37 AM - Re: Turbo Subaru (Werner Schneider)
4. 05:39 AM - Re: aileron throw (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
5. 06:20 AM - Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # (Jesse Saint)
6. 06:28 AM - Re: Re: Fuel Selector Valve Operation (Jesse Saint)
7. 06:34 AM - Re: aileron throw (Jesse Saint)
8. 06:40 AM - Baggage Door Hinge (Nikolaos Napoli)
9. 06:41 AM - Re: aileron throw (Rob Kermanj)
10. 06:57 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Rob Kermanj)
11. 07:02 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Jesse Saint)
12. 07:16 AM - Re: Turbo Subaru (John Gonzalez)
13. 07:30 AM - Re: aileron throw (John W. Cox)
14. 07:56 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Rick)
15. 08:47 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Nikolaos Napoli)
16. 10:26 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Rick Gray)
17. 11:23 AM - Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # option for custom made break pads (Paul Grimstad)
18. 11:33 AM - seat belts and airbags (David McNeill)
19. 11:33 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Rob Kermanj)
20. 12:17 PM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Nikolaos Napoli)
21. 12:22 PM - Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # (Tim Olson)
22. 04:46 PM - Enjoy a laugh ()
23. 06:28 PM - Re: uneven tire wear (Richard Sipp)
24. 06:36 PM - Night before the big election - Flutter Article (John W. Cox)
25. 07:02 PM - Re: Enjoy a laugh (Rick)
26. 07:09 PM - Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article (Rick)
27. 07:22 PM - Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article (John Gonzalez)
28. 07:28 PM - Slime HS (ddddsp1@juno.com)
29. 07:36 PM - Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article (John W. Cox)
30. 07:37 PM - Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article (John W. Cox)
31. 08:17 PM - Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article (John Gonzalez)
32. 08:30 PM - Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article (Rick)
33. 08:30 PM - Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article (Rick)
34. 09:38 PM - Re: uneven tire wear (bob.kaufmann)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wow, Cool! New List Feature... [Please Read] |
Dear Listers,
By popular suggestion, I've written a substantial new code module for the Matronics
Email Lists system. Here's how it works...
During each November, I send out quite a few PBS-like "Please make a Contribution
to support your List" emails. Wouldn't it be cool if, once a member made a
Contribution, they didn't have to receive my support pleas anymore for the rest
of that year?
Well, that's exactly what I've written! Following this posting, anyone that makes
a List Contribution in 2006 will no longer receive my Contribution Pleas for
the rest of the year!
The best part is this not only applies to the Realtime distribution, but also the
Digest distribution! For those that have made a Contribution, the Daily Digest
email-version will be invisibly stripped of my requests as well! (Note that
my requests will still be present in the online versions of the Digests, List
Browse, and on the Forum site.)
For those submitting their Contribution by personal Check, please be sure to include
your email address along with your Check as this is what is used to determine
eligibility.
So, in a nutshell, here's how it works:
Make a Contribution = No more "Please Make a Contribution" messages!
How sweet is that? If that's not a great reason to jump on the Matronics Email
List Contribution site and make your donation today, I don't know what is!
Don't forget that there are some totally awesome free gifts to be had along with
your List Contribution this year!! Don't wait a minute longer to support your
Lists!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your Support!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 2
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We flew the turbocharged Subaru H-6 yesterday. Lots of power. Maintained
1800 fpm to 10,000 feet. The Turbo is sized for 30" to 14,000 feet.
Jan
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Turbo Subaru |
Hi Jan,
sounds great, what aircraft was it in, what was your TOFF weight?
Thx Werner
EAAINC@aol.com wrote:
> We flew the turbocharged Subaru H-6 yesterday. Lots of power.
> Maintained 1800 fpm to 10,000 feet. The Turbo is sized for 30" to
> 14,000 feet.
>
> Jan
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: aileron throw |
Steve,
I don't have my airplane handy, but I want to point out that I had to cut
around 3 or 4 inches off the top of each stick for clearance reasons. That
makes a big difference in clearance. Make sure that you take that into account
when someone gives you a full left to full right measurement.
Jim
In a message dated 11/6/2006 2:12:47 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
capsteve@adelphia.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Can anyone (rv10) with their wings on tell me how much throw is in
the control stick in the aileron direction? Probably be easiest to just
measure from left sidewall to the stick deflected to the left and the
distance from the left sidewall to the stick with right deflection of
aileron. I'm scratch building a panel and need to ensure clearance.. thx
Steve d
40205
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # |
I don't have any info on the brakes, but I will say that we have already
changed them once on N256H. It is VERY easy to ride the brakes if you are
not careful. I know this is common knowledge, but be careful to keep the
pressure at least close to where it needs to be. My dad had pressure a
little too low the other day (it didn't look low by how the plane sat, but
must have been too low) and when he landed the tire spun on the rim and
broke the valve stem, which in turn let all the air out of the tire, which
somewhat busted up the wheel pant, etc, etc, etc. It would certainly be
nice to have an easy-access door to be able to check pressure and add air if
needed in the tires, but the wheel pant is so fat that you really need a
panel big enough to fit your hand through, not just a plug to fit a pressure
gauge through like some planes have. What have others done in this area?
As far as tire wear, we have noticed the same thing. We swapped the tires
right for left, I believe, which allow them to wear on the opposite sides as
they were originally, but now it is time to change them (almost 300 hours of
flying). Brakes lasted about 150 hours the first time, but braking methods
may have changed a little, so we will see how long they last this time.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 10:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
Is there anyone with a non-assembled or accessible cleaveland
brake set that can tell me which linings are the ones required
for our brakes? Here's the aircraft spruce pages:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
I'd like to put in an order and get some winter project supplies
stocked up, and thought I'd do the brakes soon. I've been
a bit hard on them this year. Once I get the part number and
replace them, I'll post it on my site for future reference. I'm
compiling a list of common replacement part numbers and torque
specs and such, so we have a reference while doing maintenance.
Brake linings should be part of this...but mine are hard to
get to now.
Today I filled up my mains with winter air (you know, you have
to change it twice a year up here in the north country ;) )
and found that the tire wear is definitely much greater on the
outer stripe of the tire. My left main has a lot of that outer
stripe worn down, while the rest of the tire is pretty good yet.
It looks like the tire will be changed based on the outer
area wearing....not the overall tread being gone. I also
have a low spot on each main....probably from a little slide
or being too quick to slow down with the brakes some time
a long time ago. I've noticed a slight bumping while taxi for
a while now and could tell it was the tires.
Thanks in advance for the part check!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 170+ hrs
do not archive
--
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Valve Operation |
This is correct on the Van's valve. You need to file down the point and use
the arm as the pointer. You have Left Right Off Off, starting from forward
left and working clockwise.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Selector Valve Operation
Deja,
I think the "pointer" end of the fuel slector valve that comes with Van's
kits is supposed to filed down (not totally sure though). The longer
"handle" end becomes your handle AND pointer. Of course, I have an Andair
valve and am not totally sure if this is correct.
Zack
quote="wvu(at)ameritel.net"]I have a stock selector valve. Fuel lines were
installed by the book, expecting that the lever would operate pointing
upward. i.e. up and left for left tank, up and right for right tank. I
expected that it would also work with it pointing down and left or right.
Well, I only get good fuel flow with it pointing down/left and down/right.
I thought the design was simply two tunnels in the valve shaft in a "+"
shape so that it would work in any of the four positions. Any idea why it
didn't work pointing upward?
Anh
#141
> [b]
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72513#72513
--
--
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Message 7
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Although I understand the concern, I don't think I would worry too much
about having full travel, because except during your control check, I can't
imagine EVER going full travel on the controls (especially since we aren't
aerobatic). Moving two inches to the left or right will get you into a
pretty steep turn, and two inches forward or back will get you very
nose-high or nose-low. We also cut the sticks all the way down and put the
Infinity Aerospace grips as far down as they will go to clear the panel, but
if we ever got close to the panel in flight, the moron flying would be
trying some kind of snap-outside-loop or something, which I certainly would
not want to be a part of. Pulling all the way back on landing is the only
one that would be common, when you flare.
Just IMHO, so do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DiNieri
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: aileron throw
Can anyone (rv10) with their wings on tell me how much throw is in
the control stick in the aileron direction? Probably be easiest to just
measure from left sidewall to the stick deflected to the left and the
distance from the left sidewall to the stick with right deflection of
aileron. I'm scratch building a panel and need to ensure clearance.. thx
Steve d
40205
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
--
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Baggage Door Hinge |
I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side Skins this we
ekend and noticed that once I do this it will be difficult to install the d
oor and get the door hinge wire in place. It looks like on my installation
once the door is installed one can't pull out the hinge wire. In fact I n
eed to install the door hinge wire and door prior to riveting the door hing
e frame. Is this typicall to what other builders experienced?=0A=0Athanks
=0A =0ANiko=0A40188
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: aileron throw |
With the elevator in neutral and full left aileron, the distance from
the stick to the left fuselage skin is 5". Full right aileron,
measured at the same spot, it is 17.5"
do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 6, 2006, at 2:09 AM, Steven DiNieri wrote:
> <capsteve@adelphia.net>
>
> Can anyone (rv10) with their wings on tell me how much throw is in
> the control stick in the aileron direction? Probably be easiest to
> just
> measure from left sidewall to the stick deflected to the left and the
> distance from the left sidewall to the stick with right deflection of
> aileron. I'm scratch building a panel and need to ensure
> clearance.. thx
> Steve d
> 40205
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
This is also my experience. I tried to offset the hinge so that I
can remove it in the future. I have not tired it and doubt that my
offset is enough.
Do not archive
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 6, 2006, at 9:40 AM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
> I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side Skins
> this weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be difficult
> to install the door and get the door hinge wire in place. It looks
> like on my installation once the door is installed one can't pull
> out the hinge wire. In fact I need to install the door hinge wire
> and door prior to riveting the door hinge frame. Is this typicall
> to what other builders experienced?
>
> thanks
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
> ============================================================ _-
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Baggage Door Hinge |
The design and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks out just
a
little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It is all sits flush,
you
will have a very hard time removing the pin, which is what you are
saying, I
think. You might want to check the plans and make sure you didn=92t
misread
the way you were supposed to install it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos
Napoli
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side Skins this
weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be difficult to install
the
door and get the door hinge wire in place. It looks like on my
installation
once the door is installed one can't pull out the hinge wire. In fact I
need to install the door hinge wire and door prior to riveting the door
hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other builders experienced?
thanks
Niko
40188
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
11/4/2006
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11/4/2006
Message 12
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Good news.
John
>From: EAAINC@aol.com
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Turbo Subaru
>Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2006 05:42:55 EST
>
>We flew the turbocharged Subaru H-6 yesterday. Lots of power. Maintained
>1800 fpm to 10,000 feet. The Turbo is sized for 30" to 14,000 feet.
>
>Jan
Message 13
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Sergei Boriak (Russian Aerobatic Champion) locked our stick grip (in a
Red Star Aircraft)under the instrument panel during Aerobatic Dual
maneuvering. No one thought it was possible. It leaves a life altering
experience. The maneuver set up the scenario. The aircraft contortion
closed the distance. Metal has memory, Metal flexes and bends.
Although the RV-10 will seldom be in aerobatic configuration. I would
never design an aircraft which could get in that stick configuration
again. "Design for Aerobatic, Load for Utility, fly in Normal
configuration". Adrenalin can be a great thing as your life passes in
your hand(s) while you say - "Damn!"
I want full ability to input full UNRESTRICTED control movement to
correct any conceivable configuration and I want it "NOW". Sorry Jesse,
now offense intended.
"Safety first, safety always".... I like your question Steven. Design
for all possibilities, not just the common ones. Just IMHO. Sounds
like the answer from Rob is 12.5" from full left to full right or 6.25
left and right of neutral. Any second confirmations? I believe the
elevator movement is greater and that one needs posting that as well due
to contact with the center of the switch panel.
While we are at it, could we get a Full rudder forward and Full rudder
aft measurement too? That means Rudder stop to Rudder stop but measured
at the foot pedals.
John Cox
(503) 453-6016
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 6:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron throw
Although I understand the concern, I don't think I would worry too much
about having full travel, because except during your control check, I
can't
imagine EVER going full travel on the controls (especially since we
aren't
aerobatic). Moving two inches to the left or right will get you into a
pretty steep turn, and two inches forward or back will get you very
nose-high or nose-low. We also cut the sticks all the way down and put
the
Infinity Aerospace grips as far down as they will go to clear the panel,
but
if we ever got close to the panel in flight, the moron flying would be
trying some kind of snap-outside-loop or something, which I certainly
would
not want to be a part of. Pulling all the way back on landing is the
only
one that would be common, when you flare.
Just IMHO, so do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven
DiNieri
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: aileron throw
<capsteve@adelphia.net>
Can anyone (rv10) with their wings on tell me how much throw is
in
the control stick in the aileron direction? Probably be easiest to just
measure from left sidewall to the stick deflected to the left and the
distance from the left sidewall to the stick with right deflection of
aileron. I'm scratch building a panel and need to ensure clearance.. thx
Steve d
40205
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
--
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
Niko,
Don't know if my first response went through, Ditto for me, I had to keep the pin
in the hinge to install the door but my install is pretty clean with nice,
small rounded openings top and bottom. I followed the directions to a TEE so I'm
not sure why we are different than others. If in the future I need to remove
the door I'll have to open the top enough to remove the hinge pin. I'm not worried
about wear so much and I polished the hinge parts prior to installing.
I never planned to paint the hinge because of paint peeling/chipping I have seen
on other hinges.
Rick S.
40185
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
Jesse and Rob thanks yor your replies=0A=0AIt looked like I would have an e
asier time inserting the pin from the bottom rather than the top, however,
obviously this would not be acceptable as the pin could fall out during fli
ght. My hinge does stick out just a slight bit but it sticks out about the
same amount top and bottom. I didn't see anything in the manual talking a
bout this. Well I can always cut the hinge if I need to take it out. Mayb
e a light thinning of the diameter and some lubricating oil would get it in
/out. =0A=0AThanks=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message --
--=0AFrom: Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:01:35 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Baggag
e Door Hinge=0A=0A=0AThe design and the plans have it so the top of the hin
ge sticks out just a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It i
s all sits flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin, which is
what you are saying, I think. You might want to check the plans and make
sure you didn=A2t misread the way you were supposed to install it.=0A =0AJe
sse Saint=0AI-TEC, Inc.=0Ajesse@itecusa.org=0Awww.itecusa.org=0AW: 352-465-
4545=0AC: 352-427-0285=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.co
m [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napol
i=0ASent: Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM=0ATo: Matronics=0ASubject: RV10
-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A =0AI was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge
Frame to the Side Skins this weekend and noticed that once I do this it wi
ll be difficult to install the door and get the door hinge wire in place.
It looks like on my installation once the door is installed one can't pull
out the hinge wire. In fact I need to install the door hinge wire and door
prior to riveting the door hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other bu
ilders experienced?=0A =0Athanks=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A =0A =0A=0A=0A=0Aww
w.aeroelectric.com=0Awww.kitlog.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List=0A =0A-- Release Date: 11/4/2006 =0A=0A--=0ANo virus f
=================
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
OK....here's 2 options that I came up with that will allow EASY removal
of the door with NO RISK of scratching the paint on the airplane:
1-install the cabin side of the hinge with platenuts....when/if you need
to remove the door you simply remove the platenut screws and the door
comes off WITH BOTH SIDES of the hinge....savvy??
2-drill a 3/32 hole in the longeron ABOVE the hinge pin. Make the pin
longer than it needs to be and you can easily remove the pin from INSIDE
the airplane. The small portion of the pin inside can be 'dressed up',
hidden, or covered by the headliner...your choice.....savvy??
Either option above allows you to recess the hinge more than the
plans....read: your hinge is NOT hangin' out in the breeze. Again...NO
CHANCE of scratching airplane paint.
I chose option 2 and am very pleased with the result.
No charge for this one :^).
Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - too many projects to list - RV10
nearing completion
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/
----- Original Message -----
From: Nikolaos Napoli
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
Jesse and Rob thanks yor your replies
It looked like I would have an easier time inserting the pin from the
bottom rather than the top, however, obviously this would not be
acceptable as the pin could fall out during flight. My hinge does stick
out just a slight bit but it sticks out about the same amount top and
bottom. I didn't see anything in the manual talking about this. Well I
can always cut the hinge if I need to take it out. Maybe a light
thinning of the diameter and some lubricating oil would get it in/out.
Thanks
Niko
40188
----- Original Message ----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:01:35 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
The design and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks out
just a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It is all sits
flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin, which is what
you are saying, I think. You might want to check the plans and make
sure you didn=A2t misread the way you were supposed to install it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos
Napoli
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM
To: Matronics
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side Skins
this weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be difficult to
install the door and get the door hinge wire in place. It looks like on
my installation once the door is installed one can't pull out the hinge
wire. In fact I need to install the door hinge wire and door prior to
riveting the door hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other builders
experienced?
thanks
Niko
40188
www.aeroelectric.comwww.kitlog.comhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10
-List
-- Release Date: 11/4/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
11/4/2006
www.aeroelbuildersbooks.com/" target=_blank
rel=nofollow>www.buildersbooks.comwwA
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target=_blank
rel======
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # option for custom |
made break pads
There is a guy in the EAA105 group called "mauleguy" that manufactures
custom brake pads. He needed something better for the oversized balloon
tires on the Maule. I don't know if he has a pad for the RV10 model, but I
bet he might be interested in a new market. He runs an ad in the monthly
news letter. (a bit long to down load) Try: Greg Miller @ 503-257-2573 or
mauleguy@aol.com or GSM Machine & Tool Inc.; 8750 NE Alberta St., Portland,
Or. 97220. I have no connection with this guy or experience with his
product, just saw his presentation at the EAA chapter meeting a while back.
Information only.
Paul Grimstad
RV-10 40405
Portland, OR 97219
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>
> That photo must be just similar, but not the same. I see even on
> Rapco's site they don't list a match for 30-59E.
>
> http://www.rapcoinc.com/pdf/kits.pdf
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Kevin Belue wrote:
>>
>> What's strange is the Aircraft Spruce catalog shows a picture of the
>> Rapco version but it is not listed in their parts list.
>>
>> Kevin Belue
>> RV10 finish
>> RV6A flying
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:46 AM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Might be worth sending Rapco an email. If they knew there was an
>>> upcoming demand for 600 aircraft within a couple years, they might get
>>> interested in producing those particular pads, especially if they were
>>> only for experimentals.
>>>
>>> On 11/4/06, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Kevin,
>>>> Surprising that not only do we use one of the brake linings that Rapco
>>>> doesn't make, but they're also some of the most expensive types.
>>>> The wheels must have been cheap, 'cuz it's not like them to go with
>>>> the expensive stuff.
>>>>
>>>> After getting your message, I searched them up and it looks like
>>>> to do the entire plane would cost 4 linings at just under $15 each.
>>>> Before I order I'm going to make sure that it isn't quantity of
>>>> 2 that we need in case they're sold in pairs and when they give
>>>> the quantity required it's for doing both wheels.
>>>>
>>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>> do not archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Kevin Belue wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > Tim,
>>>> >
>>>> > I checked my brake calipers and they are part # 30-59E. The brake >
>>>> lining
>>>> > listed for this caliper on Cleveland's website is part # 66-112.
>>>> > I couldn't find a Rapco lining for this caliper.
>>>> >
>>>> > Kevin Belue
>>>> >
>>>> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>> > Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 9:57 PM
>>>> > Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Is there anyone with a non-assembled or accessible cleaveland
>>>> >> brake set that can tell me which linings are the ones required
>>>> >> for our brakes? Here's the aircraft spruce pages:
>>>> >>
>>>> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
>>>> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
>>>> >>
>>>> >> I'd like to put in an order and get some winter project supplies
>>>> >> stocked up, and thought I'd do the brakes soon. I've been
>>>> >> a bit hard on them this year. Once I get the part number and
>>>> >> replace them, I'll post it on my site for future reference. I'm
>>>> >> compiling a list of common replacement part numbers and torque
>>>> >> specs and such, so we have a reference while doing maintenance.
>>>> >> Brake linings should be part of this...but mine are hard to
>>>> >> get to now.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Today I filled up my mains with winter air (you know, you have
>>>> >> to change it twice a year up here in the north country ;) )
>>>> >> and found that the tire wear is definitely much greater on the
>>>> >> outer stripe of the tire. My left main has a lot of that outer
>>>> >> stripe worn down, while the rest of the tire is pretty good yet.
>>>> >> It looks like the tire will be changed based on the outer
>>>> >> area wearing....not the overall tread being gone. I also
>>>> >> have a low spot on each main....probably from a little slide
>>>> >> or being too quick to slow down with the brakes some time
>>>> >> a long time ago. I've noticed a slight bumping while taxi for
>>>> >> a while now and could tell it was the tires.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Thanks in advance for the part check!
>>>> >>
>>>> >> --
>>>> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 170+ hrs
>>>> >> do not archive
>>>> >>
>>>> >>
>>>> >>
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | seat belts and airbags |
I received an email from my AMSAFE contact regarding development of an
airbag system for the RV10. My aircraft is setup for the four point
inertial belts for all four seats. They are considering working with my
aircraft for the airbag solution. After looking at their PDF of their
system it is apparent that the most probable solution would be a three
point airbag system for front seat occupants. Their timeframe for
development is 2nd quarter 2007. Unlike the Cirrus (four point inertial
harness) our seats are not designed to carry the compressed inflator
bottles or the sensors internally. I will keep the list advise if and
when there is any activity.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
Savvy indeed!
Do not archive
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 6, 2006, at 1:25 PM, Rick Gray wrote:
> OK....here's 2 options that I came up with that will allow EASY
> removal of the door with NO RISK of scratching the paint on the
> airplane:
>
> 1-install the cabin side of the hinge with platenuts....when/if you
> need to remove the door you simply remove the platenut screws and
> the door comes off WITH BOTH SIDES of the hinge....savvy??
>
> 2-drill a 3/32 hole in the longeron ABOVE the hinge pin. Make the
> pin longer than it needs to be and you can easily remove the pin
> from INSIDE the airplane. The small portion of the pin inside can
> be 'dressed up', hidden, or covered by the headliner...your
> choice.....savvy??
>
> Either option above allows you to recess the hinge more than the
> plans....read: your hinge is NOT hangin' out in the breeze.
> Again...NO CHANCE of scratching airplane paint.
>
> I chose option 2 and am very pleased with the result.
>
> No charge for this one :^).
>
> Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - too many projects to list - RV10
> nearing completion
> http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Nikolaos Napoli
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 11:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
>
> Jesse and Rob thanks yor your replies
>
> It looked like I would have an easier time inserting the pin from
> the bottom rather than the top, however, obviously this would not
> be acceptable as the pin could fall out during flight. My hinge
> does stick out just a slight bit but it sticks out about the same
> amount top and bottom. I didn't see anything in the manual talking
> about this. Well I can always cut the hinge if I need to take it
> out. Maybe a light thinning of the diameter and some lubricating
> oil would get it in/out.
>
> Thanks
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:01:35 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
> The design and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks out
> just a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It is all
> sits flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin, which
> is what you are saying, I think. You might want to check the plans
> and make sure you didn=92t misread the way you were supposed to
> install it.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
> Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM
> To: Matronics
> Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
>
> I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side Skins
> this weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be difficult
> to install the door and get the door hinge wire in place. It looks
> like on my installation once the door is installed one can't pull
> out the hinge wire. In fact I need to install the door hinge wire
> and door prior to riveting the door hinge frame. Is this typicall
> to what other builders experienced?
>
>
> thanks
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
>
> www.aeroelectric.com
> www.kitlog.com
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> -- Release Date: 11/4/2006
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> 11/4/2006
>
> www.aeroelbuildersbooks.com/" target=_blank
> rel=nofollow>www.buildersbooks.comwwA href="http://
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target=_blank rel=====
=
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.comhref="http://
> www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.comhref="http://
> www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.comhref="http://
> www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.comhref="http://
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/
> Navigator?RV10-List
Annual
> ========================
List
> ========================
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
Rick=0A=0AThose are good ideas. I will try #1.=0A=0A=0ADo not archive=0A
=0AThanks again for all the responses.=0A =0ANiko=0A40182=0A=0A=0A=0A-----
Original Message ----=0AFrom: Rick Gray <rickgray@roadrunner.com>=0ATo: rv1
0-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, November 6, 2006 1:25:09 PM=0ASubject:
Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A=0A=0AOK....here's 2 options that I ca
me up with that will allow EASY removal of the door with NO RISK of scratch
ing the paint on the airplane:=0A =0A1-install the cabin side of the hinge
with platenuts....when/if you need to remove the door you simply remove the
platenut screws and the door comes off WITH BOTH SIDES of the hinge....sav
vy??=0A =0A2-drill a 3/32 hole in the longeron ABOVE the hinge pin. Make th
e pin longer than it needs to be and you can easily remove the pin from INS
IDE the airplane. The small portion of the pin inside can be 'dressed up',
hidden, or covered by the headliner...your choice.....savvy??=0A =0AEither
option above allows you to recess the hinge more than the plans....read: yo
ur hinge is NOT hangin' out in the breeze. Again...NO CHANCE of scratching
airplane paint.=0A =0AI chose option 2 and am very pleased with the result.
=0A =0ANo charge for this one :^).=0A =0ARick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm -
too many projects to list - RV10 nearing completion=0Ahttp://rv6rick.tripo
d.com/ohiovalleyrvators/=0A----- Original Message ----- =0AFrom: Nikolaos N
apoli =0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Monday, November 06, 2006 11:
46 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A=0A=0A =0AJesse and Ro
b thanks yor your replies=0A =0AIt looked like I would have an easier time
inserting the pin from the bottom rather than the top, however, obviously t
his would not be acceptable as the pin could fall out during flight. My hi
nge does stick out just a slight bit but it sticks out about the same amoun
t top and bottom. I didn't see anything in the manual talking about this.
Well I can always cut the hinge if I need to take it out. Maybe a light t
hinning of the diameter and some lubricating oil would get it in/out. =0A
=0AThanks=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom:
Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Mond
ay, November 6, 2006 10:01:35 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hin
ge=0A=0A=0AThe design and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks
out just a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It is all sits
flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin, which is what you
are saying, I think. You might want to check the plans and make sure you d
idn=A2t misread the way you were supposed to install it.=0A =0AJesse Saint
=0AI-TEC, Inc.=0Ajesse@itecusa.org=0Awww.itecusa.org=0AW: 352-465-4545=0AC:
352-427-0285=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto
:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli=0ASent:
Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM=0ATo: Matronics=0ASubject: RV10-List: Ba
ggage Door Hinge=0A =0AI was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to
the Side Skins this weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be dif
ficult to install the door and get the door hinge wire in place. It looks
like on my installation once the door is installed one can't pull out the h
inge wire. In fact I need to install the door hinge wire and door prior to
riveting the door hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other builders ex
perienced?=0A =0Athanks=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A =0A =0A=0A=0A=0Awww.aeroele
ctric.com=0Awww.kitlog.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator
?RV10-List=0A=0A =0A-- Release Date: 11/4/2006 =0A=0A--=0ANo virus found i
n this outgoing message.=0A11/4/2006=0A=0Awww.aeroelbuildersbooks.com/" tar
get=_blank rel=nofollow>www.buildersbooks.comwwA href="http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target=_blank rel========0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0Ahref="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
=0Ahref="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com=0Ahref="ht
tp://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com=0Ahref="http://www.homebuilthelp.com"
>www.homebuilthelp.com=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li
===================
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part # |
For those following this thread....
I just got off the phone with Rapco. The guy I talked to
had already seen my email passed around the company.
They basically said that it's a pretty small market for
those pads, but that doesn't make it too bad. What it
does is make it hard to justify them making them as
a *certified* product. They said the material would be
the same as the other part numbers, just a different form
factor, and if they wanted to make them for the experimental
market, they could assign a different part number and
possibly get these things to us cheaper and easier.
He said they hadn't had a chance to sit down and talk
about it much, but that if they ended up doing them, they'd
probably submit the order for the tooling required at some
time when they have other tooling to send for. So there
is a bit of work leading up to getting them available.
In short, I should buy them and replace them right now
using Cleveland standard part 66-112, but perhaps sometime
down the road we'll have an option. He's going to keep
me appraised if things come together so we can let
you all know.
Hopefully we'll see the same market force type effect happen
in this area as we've seen with everything else so far.
The -10's definitely are a market of their own.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Paul Grimstad wrote:
>
> There is a guy in the EAA105 group called "mauleguy" that manufactures
> custom brake pads. He needed something better for the oversized balloon
> tires on the Maule. I don't know if he has a pad for the RV10 model, but
> I bet he might be interested in a new market. He runs an ad in the
> monthly news letter. (a bit long to down load) Try: Greg Miller @
> 503-257-2573 or mauleguy@aol.com or GSM Machine & Tool Inc.; 8750 NE
> Alberta St., Portland, Or. 97220. I have no connection with this guy or
> experience with his product, just saw his presentation at the EAA
> chapter meeting a while back. Information only.
> Paul Grimstad
> RV-10 40405
> Portland, OR 97219
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:08 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>
>
>>
>> That photo must be just similar, but not the same. I see even on
>> Rapco's site they don't list a match for 30-59E.
>>
>> http://www.rapcoinc.com/pdf/kits.pdf
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Kevin Belue wrote:
>>>
>>> What's strange is the Aircraft Spruce catalog shows a picture of the
>>> Rapco version but it is not listed in their parts list.
>>>
>>> Kevin Belue
>>> RV10 finish
>>> RV6A flying
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:46 AM
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Might be worth sending Rapco an email. If they knew there was an
>>>> upcoming demand for 600 aircraft within a couple years, they might get
>>>> interested in producing those particular pads, especially if they were
>>>> only for experimentals.
>>>>
>>>> On 11/4/06, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks Kevin,
>>>>> Surprising that not only do we use one of the brake linings that Rapco
>>>>> doesn't make, but they're also some of the most expensive types.
>>>>> The wheels must have been cheap, 'cuz it's not like them to go with
>>>>> the expensive stuff.
>>>>>
>>>>> After getting your message, I searched them up and it looks like
>>>>> to do the entire plane would cost 4 linings at just under $15 each.
>>>>> Before I order I'm going to make sure that it isn't quantity of
>>>>> 2 that we need in case they're sold in pairs and when they give
>>>>> the quantity required it's for doing both wheels.
>>>>>
>>>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>>> do not archive
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Kevin Belue wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Tim,
>>>>> >
>>>>> > I checked my brake calipers and they are part # 30-59E. The brake >
>>>>> lining
>>>>> > listed for this caliper on Cleveland's website is part # 66-112.
>>>>> > I couldn't find a Rapco lining for this caliper.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Kevin Belue
>>>>> >
>>>>> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>>> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>>> > Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 9:57 PM
>>>>> > Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Brake Lining Replacement part #
>>>>> >
>>>>> >
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> Is there anyone with a non-assembled or accessible cleaveland
>>>>> >> brake set that can tell me which linings are the ones required
>>>>> >> for our brakes? Here's the aircraft spruce pages:
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
>>>>> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> I'd like to put in an order and get some winter project supplies
>>>>> >> stocked up, and thought I'd do the brakes soon. I've been
>>>>> >> a bit hard on them this year. Once I get the part number and
>>>>> >> replace them, I'll post it on my site for future reference. I'm
>>>>> >> compiling a list of common replacement part numbers and torque
>>>>> >> specs and such, so we have a reference while doing maintenance.
>>>>> >> Brake linings should be part of this...but mine are hard to
>>>>> >> get to now.
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> Today I filled up my mains with winter air (you know, you have
>>>>> >> to change it twice a year up here in the north country ;) )
>>>>> >> and found that the tire wear is definitely much greater on the
>>>>> >> outer stripe of the tire. My left main has a lot of that outer
>>>>> >> stripe worn down, while the rest of the tire is pretty good yet.
>>>>> >> It looks like the tire will be changed based on the outer
>>>>> >> area wearing....not the overall tread being gone. I also
>>>>> >> have a low spot on each main....probably from a little slide
>>>>> >> or being too quick to slow down with the brakes some time
>>>>> >> a long time ago. I've noticed a slight bumping while taxi for
>>>>> >> a while now and could tell it was the tires.
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> Thanks in advance for the part check!
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> --
>>>>> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 170+ hrs
>>>>> >> do not archive
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >
>>>>> >
>>>>> >
>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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All,
Since some postings have not always been directly about
building I was reviewing some mail and found this exerpt
that just might let us all forget our stresses for a
moment.
Enjoy,
Matt Geans
Builder Wanna-be
After every Qantas Airlines flight, pilots complete a gripe
sheet which conveys to the mechanics problems encountered
with the aircraft during the flight that need repair or
correction. The form used is a piece of paper on which the
pilot completes the top part listing the problem, which the
mechanics read and then respond in writing on the lower
half of the form what remedial action was taken, so the
pilot on the next flight of that plane can review the
formbefore taking off.
> Never let it be said that ground crews and engineers lack
a sense of humor. Here are some actual logged maintenance
complaints and responses with P = the problem logged by the
pilot, S = the solution and action taken by engineers.
Qantas, by the way, is the only major airline that has
never had an accident.
>
>
> P: Left inside main tyre almost needs replacement.
> S: Almost replaced left inside main tyre.
>
> P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough.
> S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft.
>
> P: Something loose in cockpit.
> S: Something tightened in cockpit.
>
> P: Dead bugs on windshield.
> S: Live bugs on back-order.
>
> P: Autopilot in altitude -hold mode produces a 200 feet
> per minute
> descent.
> S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground.
>
> P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
> S: Evidence removed.
>
> P: DME volume unbelievably loud.
> S: DME volume set to more believable level.
>
> P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
> S: That's what they' re there for.
>
> P: IFF inoperative.
> S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.
>
> P: Suspected crack in windshield.
> S: Suspect you're right.
>
> P: Number 3 engine missing.
> S: Engine found on right wing after brief search.
>
> P: Aircraft handles funny.
> S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right and be
> serious.
>
> P: Target radar hums.
> S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics.
>
> P: Mouse in cockpit.
> S: Cat installed
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: uneven tire wear |
Because of the tilt (camber?) that the main gear assumes in flight, the
outboard portion of the tire always contacts the runway first on
touchdown and spin up. This characteristic of wearing the outboard
portion of main tires is common to all RVs.
More tire life can be had by rotating or "flipping" the tires on the rim
once or twice during the life of the tire.
Dick Sipp
40065
finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: uneven tire wear
For the flying 10s: Are the tires wearing evenly? Any uneven wear on
the outboard edges of the mains? Trying to get some idea whether the
toein for the 10 is properly set by the factory legs and pilot holes.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Night before the big election - Flutter Article |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=
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Enjoy a laugh |
Matt,
As long as this has been floating around I still get a chuckle.
Over the years while twisting wrenches you come across some pretty interesting
discrepancies that have been written by the aircrews. Of course discipline and
the fear of Commanders retaliation kept most of us from such snappy corrective
actions. Although I did manage to see one corrective action to remove & replace
a stick actuator for an ECS problem, that the "actual" stick actuator had
nothing to so with the problem unlike the organic (read Aircrew) stick actuator
the smart a** who made the entry was trying to point out. BTW this helps to
understand this scenario a bit easier (Nevada desert, August, 2 in the PM, A/C
not cool enough on the ground, really No Sh*t sir ;)
Unfortunately, the Pro-Super that night at about 11 PM doing ER's noticed that
in order to replace a stick actuator there were at least 6 different ops checks
and the actual removal and replacement which had not been documented. Soooooo
guess what we did for the next 3 hours? Flight control test, Gun ops check,
nose wheel steering check, FCR ops check, air refueling door ops check, RWR ops
check and finally a QA inspection on the actual removal and replacement on the
grip which never was actually replaced. Ya think that Chief was trying to learn
us Airmen something?
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article |
I agree with you John,
I was surprised to not see procedure for balancing in the plans. I would love to
see a writeup to explain how it is supposed to be done. I have never and plan
never to have it happen but I did have a 1/4 scale R/C model, a big biplane
experience flutter on the first and last flight while in a dive. It happened so
fast that I could not take any action before the top wing ailerons flew right
off, taking the top wing covering with them, within seconds the bottom wing
did the same thing. Only warning was what sounded like a big bumble bee followed
by floating wing parts...and that awful thud as it hits the ground.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Night before the big election - Flutter Article |
Thank you for the reminder even if your message was only found in the
beginning of your subject. Who could forget!
JOhn G.
>From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Night before the big election - Flutter Article
>Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2006 18:35:19 -0800
>
>Great article on Pages 98-101 of the September 2006, addition of Sport
>Aviation. One passage I found of value was What some pilots and
>aircraft owners may not realize is that simply repainting can add
>sufficient weight to unbalance the ruddervators and make them susceptible
>to flutter. We learned in school that all control surfaces ALWAYS get
>balanced after paint.
>
>I continue to take exception to the position that VANS aircraft do not need
>to be balanced and ignoring that Part 147 advise is okay.
>
>Worthy of consideration even if you guys arent posting any
>acknowledgment.
>
>John Cox
>#40600
>
Message 28
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Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your windows
when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to a protective
film.............then wash it off when done painting. Was wondering if
it would provide protection when glueing the window in also..........pro
tect against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.
It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.
Dean 40449
________________________________________________________________________
<html><P>Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your
windows when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to
a protective film.............then wash it off when done painting. 
; Was wondering if it would provide protection when glueing the window i
n also..........protect against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.</P>
<P>It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.</P>
<P>Dean 40449</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Night before the big election - Flutter Article |
I will post the standard procedure taught in school, after the dust
settles from tomorrow. The production jig (frame) is the only hard
part. The balancing is easy. It's as simple as balancing those main
wheels after remounting the low pressure tread and tubes which seam to
peal off the valve stems on landing.
Everyone knows what the orange dot on the side of the tire is for...
Right?
I will continue to wait for a reason other manufacturers makes and
models can do 200 kts but the RVs will suffer flutter at 181.0 knots
instead of 200.0 + knots. What do those Evo and Rocket guys know that
we are not discussing.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Night before the big election - Flutter Article
I agree with you John,
I was surprised to not see procedure for balancing in the plans. I would
love to see a writeup to explain how it is supposed to be done. I have
never and plan never to have it happen but I did have a 1/4 scale R/C
model, a big biplane experience flutter on the first and last flight
while in a dive. It happened so fast that I could not take any action
before the top wing ailerons flew right off, taking the top wing
covering with them, within seconds the bottom wing did the same thing.
Only warning was what sounded like a big bumble bee followed by floating
wing parts...and that awful thud as it hits the ground.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Night before the big election - Flutter Article |
I'm sure trying.
JC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 7:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Night before the big election - Flutter Article
Thank you for the reminder even if your message was only found in the
beginning of your subject. Who could forget!
JOhn G.
>From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Night before the big election - Flutter Article
>Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2006 18:35:19 -0800
>
>Great article on Pages 98-101 of the September 2006, addition of Sport
>Aviation. One passage I found of value was What some pilots and
>aircraft owners may not realize is that simply repainting can add
>sufficient weight to unbalance the ruddervators and make them susceptible
>to flutter. We learned in school that all control surfaces ALWAYS get
>balanced after paint.
>
>I continue to take exception to the position that VANS aircraft do not need
>to be balanced and ignoring that Part 147 advise is okay.
>
>Worthy of consideration even if you guys arent posting any
>acknowledgment.
>
>John Cox
>#40600
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article |
Was this the Great Planes Pitts 1/4 scale ARF? They had to reset the
predrilled hole locations for mounting the top wing to the struts.
JOhn G.
>From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Night before the big election - Flutter Article
>Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2006 19:09:10 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
>
>
>I agree with you John,
>
>I was surprised to not see procedure for balancing in the plans. I would
>love to see a writeup to explain how it is supposed to be done. I have
>never and plan never to have it happen but I did have a 1/4 scale R/C
>model, a big biplane experience flutter on the first and last flight while
>in a dive. It happened so fast that I could not take any action before the
>top wing ailerons flew right off, taking the top wing covering with them,
>within seconds the bottom wing did the same thing. Only warning was what
>sounded like a big bumble bee followed by floating wing parts...and that
>awful thud as it hits the ground.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Night before the big election - Flutter Article |
"Orange dot on the tire"....Where the valve stem exits the rim right?
Rick S.
40185
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article |
Close John!!
It was the Super Aeromaster....
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 34
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| Subject: | uneven tire wear |
Or landing it "firmly" enough that it compresses the gear and uses all the
tire.
Bob K
Do not archive, just laugh.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Sipp
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: uneven tire wear
Because of the tilt (camber?) that the main gear assumes in flight, the
outboard portion of the tire always contacts the runway first on touchdown
and spin up. This characteristic of wearing the outboard portion of main
tires is common to all RVs.
More tire life can be had by rotating or "flipping" the tires on the rim
once or twice during the life of the tire.
Dick Sipp
40065
finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: uneven tire wear
For the flying 10s: Are the tires wearing evenly? Any uneven wear on the
outboard edges of the mains? Trying to get some idea whether the toein for
the 10 is properly set by the factory legs and pilot holes.
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