Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:11 AM - Re: aileron throwaileron throw (Link McGarity)
2. 03:50 AM - Re: Enjoy a laugh (Jack Sargeant)
3. 03:56 AM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (Russell Daves)
4. 03:56 AM - Re: uneven tire wear (Tim Olson)
5. 07:09 AM - Re: Turbo Subaru (Brian Douglas)
6. 07:36 AM - Firewall Insulation Adhesive (Nikolaos Napoli)
7. 07:37 AM - Re: Slime HS (Mark Ritter)
8. 07:47 AM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (John Jessen)
9. 07:52 AM - Re: aileron throwaileron throw (John Gonzalez)
10. 07:54 AM - RV10 vs PA-28-235 (Brian Douglas)
11. 08:06 AM - Re: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!! (John Jessen)
12. 08:10 AM - Re: Firewall Insulation Adhesive (Tim Olson)
13. 08:20 AM - Re: Archives and willingness to comment (Deems Davis)
14. 08:31 AM - Re: RV10 vs PA-28-235 (jdalton77)
15. 08:31 AM - Re: Turbo Subaru (jdalton77)
16. 08:32 AM - Re: RV10 vs PA-28-235 (Jesse Saint)
17. 08:33 AM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (Tim Olson)
18. 08:54 AM - Re: aileron throwaileron throw (Rene Felker)
19. 08:56 AM - Re: RV10 vs PA-28-235 (Tim Olson)
20. 09:08 AM - Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article (Deems Davis)
21. 09:10 AM - Re: Slime HS (Deems Davis)
22. 09:21 AM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (Deems Davis)
23. 09:51 AM - Re: Slime HS (Mark Ritter)
24. 10:09 AM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (Rene Felker)
25. 10:09 AM - Re: RV10 vs PA-28-235 (GRANSCOTT@AOL.COM)
26. 10:22 AM - Re: RV10 vs PA-28-235 (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
27. 10:30 AM - Fw: RV10 vs PA-28-235 (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
28. 10:33 AM - Re: Turbo Subaru (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
29. 11:03 AM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (Kelly McMullen)
30. 11:24 AM - Re: Slime HS (Les Kearney)
31. 12:33 PM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (Nikolaos Napoli)
32. 12:42 PM - Re: Re: Cables and heat (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
33. 01:00 PM - Re: Slime HS (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
34. 01:18 PM - Re: Slime HS (John W. Cox)
35. 01:51 PM - FW: [LML] Micromesh competition (John W. Cox)
36. 02:05 PM - Care of Aero Plastics (John W. Cox)
37. 03:10 PM - Re: Slime HS (Mark Ritter)
38. 04:01 PM - FW: [BostonRVBuilders] Hooker Harness deal is ready for public consumption! (John Jessen)
39. 04:51 PM - Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM (Les Kearney)
40. 05:16 PM - The Yard - Tools (Les Kearney)
41. 05:24 PM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (Deems Davis)
42. 05:48 PM - Re: The Yard - Tools (JOHN STARN)
43. 05:48 PM - Re: Slime HS (ddddsp1@juno.com)
44. 06:59 PM - Re: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM (John W. Cox)
45. 07:00 PM - Re: Slime HS (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
46. 07:04 PM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (Chris)
47. 08:42 PM - Re: Archives and willingness to comment (Roadster)
48. 08:55 PM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (Kelly McMullen)
49. 09:34 PM - Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone (Rick)
50. 09:45 PM - Re: Re: Archives and willingness to comment (Tim Olson)
51. 10:10 PM - Re: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM (Les Kearney)
52. 10:27 PM - Re: Re: Archives and willingness to comment (Paul Grimstad)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: aileron throwaileron throw |
Sorry, but I have to chime in with John C. on this one. You should NEVER
have restricted control movement by design. While it is true that the
control stick box, rudder travel for that matter, is/are normally rather
confined, especially at higher airpspeeds, there ARE situations, and in
other than aerobatic flight, where full control movement may be
required. I encourage anyone considering restricted control movement, by
design, to give this latter point serious consideration.
Example, and on the lighter side, a wake turbulence encounter.... A
neighbor, the other day, reported substantial wake turbulence and
control recovery effort after being "thumped" by an F-15 whilst on final
to our airport. What TFR? What presidential visit in progress some
12-15nm away, hi? Intercept procedures and required response, huh?
Anyway, point is to always consider the unexpected, and in this case the
need for full control authority, always.
Link McGarity
#40622 elevators
RV6/N42GF/flying, non builder
Message 2
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And then I don't remember the gripes (it's been almost 45 years), but there
were the write-ups:
"short between the headset."
and
"Loose nut on the control stick."
Jack & Cecilia Sargeant
1127 Patricia St.
Wichita, KS 67208-2642
316/683-5268
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
mgeans@provide.net
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Enjoy a laugh
All,
Since some postings have not always been directly about
building I was reviewing some mail and found this exerpt
that just might let us all forget our stresses for a
moment.
Enjoy,
Matt Geans
Builder Wanna-be
After every Qantas Airlines flight, pilots complete a gripe
sheet which conveys to the mechanics problems encountered
with the aircraft during the flight that need repair or
correction. The form used is a piece of paper on which the
pilot completes the top part listing the problem, which the
mechanics read and then respond in writing on the lower
half of the form what remedial action was taken, so the
pilot on the next flight of that plane can review the
formbefore taking off.
> Never let it be said that ground crews and engineers lack
a sense of humor. Here are some actual logged maintenance
complaints and responses with P = the problem logged by the
pilot, S = the solution and action taken by engineers.
Qantas, by the way, is the only major airline that has
never had an accident.
>
>
> P: Left inside main tyre almost needs replacement.
> S: Almost replaced left inside main tyre.
>
> P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough.
> S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft.
>
> P: Something loose in cockpit.
> S: Something tightened in cockpit.
>
> P: Dead bugs on windshield.
> S: Live bugs on back-order.
>
> P: Autopilot in altitude -hold mode produces a 200 feet
> per minute
> descent.
> S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground.
>
> P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
> S: Evidence removed.
>
> P: DME volume unbelievably loud.
> S: DME volume set to more believable level.
>
> P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
> S: That's what they' re there for.
>
> P: IFF inoperative.
> S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.
>
> P: Suspected crack in windshield.
> S: Suspect you're right.
>
> P: Number 3 engine missing.
> S: Engine found on right wing after brief search.
>
> P: Aircraft handles funny.
> S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right and be
> serious.
>
> P: Target radar hums.
> S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics.
>
> P: Mouse in cockpit.
> S: Cat installed
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
I installed my most forward cross member as close to the F-1006 as
possible, and just behind the bolts joining the F-1046 and F-1032
Longerons together, almost directly above the battery. I have had no
problems with interference, except where I failed to use brass bolts and
washers to install the magnameter onto the shelf.
Since the duel AHRS and magnameters are all on a shelf next to each
other in the center of the fuselage the left and right seat belt cables
just cross above the cross members and are no problem. If you were to
install the AHRS or magnameter next to the fuselage side wall they could
cause interference.
Best regards,
Russ Daves
N710RV flying
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: uneven tire wear |
Ahhh, so the REAL reason for my tire wear is revealed...I simply LAND
TOO NICELY. ;)
I haven't finished the writeup yet, but here are the photos of the
tire wear for anyone interested. This is my "bad" tire, by the
way. The other side isn't nearly as bad.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20061104/index.html
Bob, I'll have to try pancaking it in and see if that gives me better
tire life. <G> LOL!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
bob.kaufmann wrote:
> Or landing it firmly enough that it compresses the gear and uses all
> the tire.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob K
>
> Do not archive, just laugh.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Richard Sipp
> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 6:06 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: uneven tire wear
>
>
>
> Because of the tilt (camber?) that the main gear assumes in flight, the
> outboard portion of the tire always contacts the runway first on
> touchdown and spin up. This characteristic of wearing the outboard
> portion of main tires is common to all RVs.
>
>
>
> More tire life can be had by rotating or "flipping" the tires on the rim
> once or twice during the life of the tire.
>
>
>
> Dick Sipp
>
> 40065
>
> finishing
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 05, 2006 3:12 PM
>
> *Subject:* RV10-List: uneven tire wear
>
>
>
> For the flying 10s: Are the tires wearing evenly? Any uneven wear on
> the outboard edges of the mains? Trying to get some idea whether the
> toein for the 10 is properly set by the factory legs and pilot holes.
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *www.aeroelectric.com*
>
> *www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com>*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Turbo Subaru |
Typical Eggenfellner. What could be an interesting and in depth write
up is instead so terse it's nearly useless.
Just my $.02
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: EAAINC@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 4:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Turbo Subaru
We flew the turbocharged Subaru H-6 yesterday. Lots of power.
Maintained 1800 fpm to 10,000 feet. The Turbo is sized for 30" to
14,000 feet.
Jan
Message 6
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| Subject: | Firewall Insulation Adhesive |
Well its time to put in the Firewall insulation I got from Flightline Inter
iors. Any suggestions on what adhesive to use? I am going to use the alum
inum tape that Spruce sells around the edges.=0A=0AThanks=0A =0ANiko=0A4018
8
Message 7
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I used Spray Lat purchased from A/S and it worked great. You put it on with
a paint brush(thick) and then just peel it off when you have finished
working with the plexiglas.
Mark (N410MR Flying)
>From: "ddddsp1@juno.com" <ddddsp1@juno.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Slime HS
>Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2006 03:26:13 GMT
>
>Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your windows
>when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to a protective
>film.............then wash it off when done painting. Was wondering if it
>would provide protection when glueing the window in also..........protect
>against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.
>It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.
>Dean 40449
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
Add a Yahoo! contact to Windows Live Messenger for a chance to win a free
trip!
Message 8
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| Subject: | Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
So, is there a reason to locate where Russ has done, or to locate behind the
F-1007, further away from the battery? I'm trying to keep the area above
the battery free for a future hat shelf, but don't want to place things too
far aft if there is a reason one should keep the AHRS and magnetometer
closer to, say, the mid of the plane. If either is back further into the
tailcone, could that mess up their readings?
John Jessen
40328 (closing the tailcone as soon as I locate the shelf for the
AHRS/magnetometer)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore
closing up the top of the Tailcone
I installed my most forward cross member as close to the F-1006 as possible,
and just behind the bolts joining the F-1046 and F-1032 Longerons together,
almost directly above the battery. I have had no problems with
interference, except where I failed to use brass bolts and washers to
install the magnameter onto the shelf.
Since the duel AHRS and magnameters are all on a shelf next to each other in
the center of the fuselage the left and right seat belt cables just cross
above the cross members and are no problem. If you were to install the AHRS
or magnameter next to the fuselage side wall they could cause interference.
Best regards,
Russ Daves
N710RV flying
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: aileron throwaileron throw |
I am not arguing with any of this, but I also remember that airbus accident
where the VS spar failed was also I believe due to wake turbulance and full
rudder deflection by the pilot. This is how I remember the report.
I think I would like to have the full range of throws, but one has to be
careful at high speeds and turbulent conditions.
Being an RCer, I have stalled high performance slope sailplanes at high
speed due to putting too much up elevator too fast. It is an amazing thing
to witness. The electronic radios have dual rates and things like that to
accomodate this stuff.
John G.
>From: Link McGarity <wv4i@bellsouth.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: aileron throwaileron throw
>Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2006 05:09:05 -0500
>
>
>Sorry, but I have to chime in with John C. on this one. You should NEVER
>have restricted control movement by design. While it is true that the
>control stick box, rudder travel for that matter, is/are normally rather
>confined, especially at higher airpspeeds, there ARE situations, and in
>other than aerobatic flight, where full control movement may be required. I
>encourage anyone considering restricted control movement, by design, to
>give this latter point serious consideration.
>
>Example, and on the lighter side, a wake turbulence encounter.... A
>neighbor, the other day, reported substantial wake turbulence and control
>recovery effort after being "thumped" by an F-15 whilst on final to our
>airport. What TFR? What presidential visit in progress some 12-15nm away,
>hi? Intercept procedures and required response, huh?
>Anyway, point is to always consider the unexpected, and in this case the
>need for full control authority, always.
>
>Link McGarity
>#40622 elevators
>RV6/N42GF/flying, non builder
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV10 vs PA-28-235 |
I went flying with a buddy of mine last week in his 235HP Pathfinder.
On our way back from a $100 pulled pork sandwich, we had the benefit of
a strong tailwind and my friend noted, with some satisfaction, that we
were doing 180knots over the ground. Hmmmm, I thought. An RV-10 with
the same engine would almost fly as fast in a still wind. I should also
point out that my friend's pathfinder has EVERY speed mod you can buy
(gap seals, fancy pants, wing fairings, etc).
So the question is, given the same power and nearly identical
size/weight, how come the -10 is 30-40 knots faster than the cherokee
235? Is the wing just THAT more efficient? Is it the cowl? Flush
rivets? Prop? Combination of all four? Even more surprising is the
fact that you seemingly don't have to pay a price for that speed
advantage. The RV-10 lands shorter, takes off shorter, climbs as fast
and yet has more interior space. Amazing.
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
Message 11
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| Subject: | Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!! |
Grump! Atta Boy! I grinned all the way through your write-up below. Now I
know the secret. I'm off to buy a case of the good old Beefeaters so I can
speed things up!
Stay safe,
John Jessen
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gengrumpy@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!!
Please pardon if in insult any of you.
I am pleased to announce that N184JM, RV#40404, Rv-10, achieved first flight
today, 3 Nov06. I got the DAR release from Mel, yesterday (who did the 2
beautiful birds in CO last year) yesterday. Mel was an absolute wonderful
set of eyes to find things I had overlooked, and cleared me for flight
yesterday. I strongly recommed Mel (Dallas Area) for any RV-10 clearances!
Let me digress a little about N184JM.
I began work on 184JM in June of 05 with the tail kit. (That's after my
wife DeSha decided I should do this, prodeed by help from old AF
friends.....). I decided to do my build in TX although we live in TN. Why
did we do this???
Our good, long time friend Paul Orf lives in TX, and over several bottles of
Beefeaters he convinced me that we should build this bird in his hangar
facility in TX. He claimed that he had all the tools, so it would be easy
and it wouldn't cost me as much....
So, the tooth fairy said what?????
18 months later, uncountable trips to TX, and wearing thin on my friends
(and after we drained numeroous Beefeters bottles), N184JM flew on 3 Nov
2006.
Today, I put 2 sorties on her, for a total of about 3.5 hrs total.
Aerosport Power built IO-540 engine, special built 2 bladed prop by Johnnie
Downs, the best prop guy in TX (now in Arkansas).
Minor hiccups (as expected). Panel is from Davd Buckwalter of Avionice
Systems in Leesburg, VA. Dual Cheltons plus GRT 6000 EIS.
Programming manuals from both GRT and Cheltons are the pits. After lots of
time on the phone, get all the bugs worked out. Except the AHRS from
Chelton that has been promised for months now.....all I have is wires behind
the bulkhead....
However, once past the GRT and Chelton obligitory time on the phone, and all
are set up.....
Wonderful displays - BOTH. Can't wait to get my AHRS from Chelton to
complete the setup.
But, for those of you who really want to know what it's like to finally fly
the RV-10...........It's superb.
I have a data point or two to reference from.....F-105, A-7D, F-16A/B/C/D,
F-117. F-15...
So, Grumpy, what the hell are you telling me?
The RV-10 is an outstanding airplane! Flies with fingers only....responds
beautifully to all inputs. Flies formation almost like the Thunderbirds
(thrust, not controls.....). Beautifully handling and forgiving airframe.
Try it......you'll like it!
Now....who's going to help me with the interior<<<
Check 6 - Grumpy
P.S., Thanks for the checkout, Alex!!!!
_____
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
--
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Insulation Adhesive |
I just used red RTV on spots on the back. If you cut the panels to
fit well, they won't come out at all.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
> Well its time to put in the Firewall insulation I got from Flightline
> Interiors. Any suggestions on what adhesive to use? I am going to use
> the aluminum tape that Spruce sells around the edges.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Archives and willingness to comment |
Sorry, I've been absent for a week or so, but my teacher has had me
serving detention after school writing:
I will do a better job of responding to the RV-10 list inquiries, ...
I will do a better job of responding to the RV-10 list inquiries, ...
I will do a better job of responding to the RV-10 list inquiries, ...
I will do a better job of responding to the RV-10 list inquiries, ...
I will do a better job of responding to the RV-10 list inquiries, ...
I will do a better job of responding to the RV-10 list inquiries, ...
I will do a better job of responding to the RV-10 list inquiries, ...
I will do a better job of responding to the RV-10 list inquiries, ...
I will do a better job of responding to the RV-10 list inquiries, ...
And I just finished ! :-[
do not archive
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
>*
>*
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 vs PA-28-235 |
All of the above?
Add 25HP, a more efficient wing, a lighter plane, and flush rivets and
it will go way faster. Who knew? (obviously Van did)
JEFF
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Douglas
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 vs PA-28-235
I went flying with a buddy of mine last week in his 235HP Pathfinder.
On our way back from a $100 pulled pork sandwich, we had the benefit of
a strong tailwind and my friend noted, with some satisfaction, that we
were doing 180knots over the ground. Hmmmm, I thought. An RV-10 with
the same engine would almost fly as fast in a still wind. I should also
point out that my friend's pathfinder has EVERY speed mod you can buy
(gap seals, fancy pants, wing fairings, etc).
So the question is, given the same power and nearly identical
size/weight, how come the -10 is 30-40 knots faster than the cherokee
235? Is the wing just THAT more efficient? Is it the cowl? Flush
rivets? Prop? Combination of all four? Even more surprising is the
fact that you seemingly don't have to pay a price for that speed
advantage. The RV-10 lands shorter, takes off shorter, climbs as fast
and yet has more interior space. Amazing.
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Turbo Subaru |
Maybe, but it's enough to make some of us look at it further.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Douglas
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbo Subaru
Typical Eggenfellner. What could be an interesting and in depth write
up is instead so terse it's nearly useless.
Just my $.02
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: EAAINC@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 4:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Turbo Subaru
We flew the turbocharged Subaru H-6 yesterday. Lots of power.
Maintained 1800 fpm to 10,000 feet. The Turbo is sized for 30" to
14,000 feet.
Jan
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 16
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| Subject: | RV10 vs PA-28-235 |
Well, I think some of the reason is just that the Cherokee is afraid of
liability because it is certified, so it just won=92t let itself go as
fast as
it could. :-)
I don=92t know a lot about the Cherokee, but I think it is a combination
of
all 4 issues, the wing, the cowl, flush rivets, prop, gear leg fairings
and
wheel pants (make 15-18Kts difference in our tests), better engineering
available now than was when the Cherokee was designed so the strength is
where it needs to be. There are probably a number of other factors
also.
You know, on second thought, maybe you could trick the Cherokee into
thinking it was designed by Van=92s and see if that would make it
faster.
Ok, back to being serious. We have looked at the Cirrus SR-22 a lot.
It
has more power, thinner and higher aspect ratio wings, is more
aerodynamic
because of the compound curves available with composites, yet it is only
5-10Kts faster in cruise, and is burning a lot more fuel at that. It
needs
about twice the runway to takeoff and land, and doesn=92t seem to climb
as
well. It doesn=92t have even close to the same full-fuel useful load
and with
full fuel won=92t go as far. One reason is the SR-22 is a fair bit
heavier
than the RV-10, both empty. I don=92t know the other reasons. Also I
have
heard that you really badly don=92t want to get into ice in the SR-22
unless
you have the anti-ice system, while I know we have picked up ice on a
number
of occasions with the -10 and it was hard to even notice a difference
(although we didn=92t stay in the ice any longer than we absolutely had
to,
not wanting to temp God). Maybe it is that certified thing again.
Don=92t
fully know, but the more we look, the more we can=92t find any plane
that is
all-around as good as the -10.
Now, where did I set that turbo?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 vs PA-28-235
I went flying with a buddy of mine last week in his 235HP Pathfinder.
On
our way back from a $100 pulled pork sandwich, we had the benefit of a
strong tailwind and my friend noted, with some satisfaction, that we
were
doing 180knots over the ground. Hmmmm, I thought. An RV-10 with the
same
engine would almost fly as fast in a still wind. I should also point
out
that my friend's pathfinder has EVERY speed mod you can buy (gap seals,
fancy pants, wing fairings, etc).
So the question is, given the same power and nearly identical
size/weight,
how come the -10 is 30-40 knots faster than the cherokee 235? Is the
wing
just THAT more efficient? Is it the cowl? Flush rivets? Prop?
Combination of all four? Even more surprising is the fact that you
seemingly don't have to pay a price for that speed advantage. The RV-10
lands shorter, takes off shorter, climbs as fast and yet has more
interior
space. Amazing.
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
11/7/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
11/7/2006
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
A magnetometer separately can go anywhere in the airframe where
there is the least magnetic disturbance. (tail, wingtip, ...)
So don't beat yourself up over the magnetometer. The AHRS
should go somewhere near center CG, but don't get too
worked up about that either...in our planes, most of the practical
locations would be fine. (behind the panel, in the tail, ...)
Some of it will depend on your EFIS choice, since if you're
using one with an integral magnetometer, it may be harder to
find the perfect place for the complete package. It would
help if you knew how big the possible hat shelf would be, so
you could know your available space.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Jessen wrote:
> So, is there a reason to locate where Russ has done, or to locate behind
> the F-1007, further away from the battery? I'm trying to keep the area
> above the battery free for a future hat shelf, but don't want to place
> things too far aft if there is a reason one should keep the AHRS and
> magnetometer closer to, say, the mid of the plane. If either is back
> further into the tailcone, could that mess up their readings?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 (closing the tailcone as soon as I locate the shelf for the
> AHRS/magnetometer)
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Russell
> Daves
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:55 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the
> TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone
>
> I installed my most forward cross member as close to the F-1006 as
> possible, and just behind the bolts joining the F-1046 and F-1032
> Longerons together, almost directly above the battery. I have had
> no problems with interference, except where I failed to use brass
> bolts and washers to install the magnameter onto the shelf.
>
> Since the duel AHRS and magnameters are all on a shelf next to each
> other in the center of the fuselage the left and right seat belt
> cables just cross above the cross members and are no problem. If
> you were to install the AHRS or magnameter next to the fuselage side
> wall they could cause interference.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV flying
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
> -- No virus found in this Edition. Release Date: 11/6/2006
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> 11/6/2006
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 18
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| Subject: | aileron throwaileron throw |
The Airbus accident is a good example what I thought is true and what is
really true. Before that accident, I believed that if I was flying below
maneuvering speed that I did not have to worry about damaging my certified
airplane with full control movements.......what I know now (at least as far
as the rudder is concerned) is that the certification requirements are for
the rudder to be able to go from the neutral position to full left or full
right......not from full left to full right (or the other way around).
Either way, I will make sure that my stick does not strike the panel or has
any possibility of getting stuck underneath.
Rene' Felker
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: aileron throwaileron throw
I am not arguing with any of this, but I also remember that airbus accident
where the VS spar failed was also I believe due to wake turbulance and full
rudder deflection by the pilot. This is how I remember the report.
I think I would like to have the full range of throws, but one has to be
careful at high speeds and turbulent conditions.
Being an RCer, I have stalled high performance slope sailplanes at high
speed due to putting too much up elevator too fast. It is an amazing thing
to witness. The electronic radios have dual rates and things like that to
accomodate this stuff.
John G.
>From: Link McGarity <wv4i@bellsouth.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: aileron throwaileron throw
>Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2006 05:09:05 -0500
>
>
>Sorry, but I have to chime in with John C. on this one. You should NEVER
>have restricted control movement by design. While it is true that the
>control stick box, rudder travel for that matter, is/are normally rather
>confined, especially at higher airpspeeds, there ARE situations, and in
>other than aerobatic flight, where full control movement may be required. I
>encourage anyone considering restricted control movement, by design, to
>give this latter point serious consideration.
>
>Example, and on the lighter side, a wake turbulence encounter.... A
>neighbor, the other day, reported substantial wake turbulence and control
>recovery effort after being "thumped" by an F-15 whilst on final to our
>airport. What TFR? What presidential visit in progress some 12-15nm away,
>hi? Intercept procedures and required response, huh?
>Anyway, point is to always consider the unexpected, and in this case the
>need for full control authority, always.
>
>Link McGarity
>#40622 elevators
>RV6/N42GF/flying, non builder
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 vs PA-28-235 |
The answer is, it's probably NOT 30-40 knots faster.
It's probably a little more efficient and streamlined
as you've noticed below. The problem is, you really
need to compare the planes at identical conditions,
considering altitude, temperature, power settings,
and use TAS and don't bother with GPS Groundspeed.
If you do that, you'll probably find that the RV-10,
while maybe a little faster and more efficient, isn't
really way out there as outstandingly different than
many other high performance planes. There are some,
like the Long-EZ's and others, that may give much
more speed on the same power. The RV-10 isn't that
drastically different.
I can also tell you that while you may be able to
hit 180KTS (KNOTS) at some power setting, you'll
be hard pressed to come anywhere near that on a
cross-country cruise without being willing to pay
maybe double or MORE in fuel than the guy who gets
there about 30 minutes later on the 1000nm trip.
So yeah, while looking at his 180kt GS seemed
to have relevance to the RV-10's Airspeed, there
really isn't anything worth comparing there.
The same concepts should be noted to anyone who wants
to post their RV-10's speed numbers. On the
VAF -10 list you've probably seen the guy claiming
to be much faster than Van's, on a carb engine.
The thing is, there's not any real detail on the
calibration or accuracy of the numbers that's ever
been posted in that case....so there's no way to
tell if it's got any validity to it.
So everyone build your -10, but then fly to
CALIBRATE your readings so you get completely
accurate TAS values, and THEN post the results
at your power setting of choice, including all
Temp, DA, MP, RPM, TAS and other information. Then
you'll have some good numbers. I had to learn this
the hard way, by the way, by posting my numbers
before ever calibrating my stuff. I felt pretty
stupid after that...especially when people
were thinking the numbers were slow, but later
finding out I was actually 6.5-7.5 kts faster.
The -10 should compare very nicely with most
HP planes though.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Brian Douglas wrote:
>
> I went flying with a buddy of mine last week in his 235HP Pathfinder.
> On our way back from a $100 pulled pork sandwich, we had the benefit of
> a strong tailwind and my friend noted, with some satisfaction, that we
> were doing 180knots over the ground. Hmmmm, I thought. An RV-10 with
> the same engine would almost fly as fast in a still wind. I should also
> point out that my friend's pathfinder has EVERY speed mod you can buy
> (gap seals, fancy pants, wing fairings, etc).
>
> So the question is, given the same power and nearly identical
> size/weight, how come the -10 is 30-40 knots faster than the cherokee
> 235? Is the wing just THAT more efficient? Is it the cowl? Flush
> rivets? Prop? Combination of all four? Even more surprising is the
> fact that you seemingly don't have to pay a price for that speed
> advantage. The RV-10 lands shorter, takes off shorter, climbs as fast
> and yet has more interior space. Amazing.
>
>
> -Brian
>
>
> #40497
> N211BD
> Iowa City, IA
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Night before the big election - Flutter Article |
Now that's a graphic reinforcement/reminder!
do not archive
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rick wrote:
>
>I agree with you John,
>
>I was surprised to not see procedure for balancing in the plans. I would love
to see a writeup to explain how it is supposed to be done. I have never and plan
never to have it happen but I did have a 1/4 scale R/C model, a big biplane
experience flutter on the first and last flight while in a dive. It happened
so fast that I could not take any action before the top wing ailerons flew right
off, taking the top wing covering with them, within seconds the bottom wing
did the same thing. Only warning was what sounded like a big bumble bee followed
by floating wing parts...and that awful thud as it hits the ground.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
I'd also like to hear from anyone who's used this or any other
'REMOVABLE' coating to protect their plexi during the install process.
there was a thread posted recently about a builder that had developed
optical 'waves' after removing some scratched incurred during the
install. I'm nearing this step/s and have a selfish interest.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your
> windows when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to a
> protective film.............then wash it off when done painting. Was
> wondering if it would provide protection when glueing the window in
> also..........protect against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.
>
> It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.
>
> Dean 40449
>
>*
>*
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
Something I was reminded recently of was the issue of serviceability.
There is a lot of space behind the baggage bulkhead, and potentially
room for things like Oxygen, air Conditioning, AHRS, Strobe power
supply, ELT, Elevator servo, Batteries, contactors, etc. etc. With the
tailcone disconnected, and with the top fuse skin at the rear of the
cabin off, it's easy to get to these areas, but how will that be
accomplished when everything is riveted/bolted up, just a thought to
throw into the mix, its caused me to think seriously about adding a
hinged access door/panel that would be located behind the baggage
bulkhead top skin and forward of the tailcone top skin.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Jessen wrote:
> So, is there a reason to locate where Russ has done, or to locate
> behind the F-1007, further away from the battery? I'm trying to keep
> the area above the battery free for a future hat shelf, but don't want
> to place things too far aft if there is a reason one should keep the
> AHRS and magnetometer closer to, say, the mid of the plane. If either
> is back further into the tailcone, could that mess up their readings?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 (closing the tailcone as soon as I locate the shelf for the
> AHRS/magnetometer)
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Russell Daves
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:55 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the
> TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone
>
> I installed my most forward cross member as close to the F-1006 as
> possible, and just behind the bolts joining the F-1046 and F-1032
> Longerons together, almost directly above the battery. I have had
> no problems with interference, except where I failed to use brass
> bolts and washers to install the magnameter onto the shelf.
>
> Since the duel AHRS and magnameters are all on a shelf next to
> each other in the center of the fuselage the left and right seat
> belt cables just cross above the cross members and are no
> problem. If you were to install the AHRS or magnameter next to
> the fuselage side wall they could cause interference.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV flying
>
>
>*
>
>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>*
>
> -- No virus found in this Edition. Release Date: 11/6/2006
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> 11/6/2006
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 23
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|
Just removed my windshield due to a deep scratch on the inside as a result
of a passenger putting their headset on the glare shield - bad idea to put
anything on the glare shield that will scratch the windshield. Tried using
Scratch Off using fingers to rub the compound as the space was to tight for
a buffer. Bad idea as I managed to create an ugly distortion. The old
window is out and the new one is trimmed to fit and ready to glue in.
As posted earlier I coated all the plexiglas with Spray Lat (Aircraft
Spruce) before trimming and installation. Worked great.
Mark (N410MR - Was flying)
>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
>Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2006 10:10:20 -0700
>
>
>I'd also like to hear from anyone who's used this or any other 'REMOVABLE'
>coating to protect their plexi during the install process. there was a
>thread posted recently about a builder that had developed optical 'waves'
>after removing some scratched incurred during the install. I'm nearing this
>step/s and have a selfish interest.
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
>
>>Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your windows
>>when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to a protective
>>film.............then wash it off when done painting. Was wondering if it
>>would provide protection when glueing the window in also..........protect
>>against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.
>>
>>It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.
>>
>>Dean 40449
>>
>>*
>>*
>>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Live Search!
Message 24
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| Subject: | Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
I put my self at the rear of the first bay, but it will be bolted in place.
It will not be the simplest thing to remove, but it will be removable so I
can do work on items on the shelf.
Just started work on my O2 system. Got all the opinions I needed from the
ME's here at work and will be mounting the tank on the back of the baggage
area panel. A couple of doublers and I should be set.
Question, how many ME's does it take to change a light bulb....
0, they just call the double E to do it.....
Rene' Felker
40322
Finish.................
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore
closing up the top of the Tailcone
Something I was reminded recently of was the issue of serviceability.
There is a lot of space behind the baggage bulkhead, and potentially
room for things like Oxygen, air Conditioning, AHRS, Strobe power
supply, ELT, Elevator servo, Batteries, contactors, etc. etc. With the
tailcone disconnected, and with the top fuse skin at the rear of the
cabin off, it's easy to get to these areas, but how will that be
accomplished when everything is riveted/bolted up, just a thought to
throw into the mix, its caused me to think seriously about adding a
hinged access door/panel that would be located behind the baggage
bulkhead top skin and forward of the tailcone top skin.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Jessen wrote:
> So, is there a reason to locate where Russ has done, or to locate
> behind the F-1007, further away from the battery? I'm trying to keep
> the area above the battery free for a future hat shelf, but don't want
> to place things too far aft if there is a reason one should keep the
> AHRS and magnetometer closer to, say, the mid of the plane. If either
> is back further into the tailcone, could that mess up their readings?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 (closing the tailcone as soon as I locate the shelf for the
> AHRS/magnetometer)
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Russell Daves
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:55 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the
> TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone
>
> I installed my most forward cross member as close to the F-1006 as
> possible, and just behind the bolts joining the F-1046 and F-1032
> Longerons together, almost directly above the battery. I have had
> no problems with interference, except where I failed to use brass
> bolts and washers to install the magnameter onto the shelf.
>
> Since the duel AHRS and magnameters are all on a shelf next to
> each other in the center of the fuselage the left and right seat
> belt cables just cross above the cross members and are no
> problem. If you were to install the AHRS or magnameter next to
> the fuselage side wall they could cause interference.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV flying
>
>
>*
>
>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>*
>
> -- No virus found in this Edition. Release Date: 11/6/2006
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> 11/6/2006
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 vs PA-28-235 |
Brian I own a 67 235...there's one condition that the 235 beats the pant off
of an RV 10...it will haul more weight up in the air...on average
1400lbs...but it's slower for all the items you list...the fat wing is not a true
laminar flow wing...under loading it will flex to create more lift loosing it's
laminar flow...the cowl is a real speed spoiler along with gear that extends
into the sllip stream no matter what pant one uses the tubes are exposed into
the slip stream 8-15" above the pant and are uncowled...the plane has many
rivets and there is a layer of dome rivets just before the MAC that slows the
wing down but allows for more flex and lift.
The wing is basically constant cord with a 2% twist further slowing the wing
down but increasing lift. but for all it's hairy warts it's a real
beast...is faster than a 182 and will fly about as fast as the Cherokee 6 with
a 300
hp engine all the while, sipping 4-5 less gallons per hour. The plane does
have a nose heavy feel and will Dutch roll given it's way. But given it's
1960's technology, they are still around whether as a 235 or 236 or the expanded
versions, Cherokee 6, 6X, Lance or Toga's are still being made.
If you can find a copy of Flying, August '68 there's a very good articles
one on Laminar flow and the second on the Cherokee 235.
Flush riveting and full cowling along with ram airflow will add a lot to
tractor engine aircraft...to get even better numbers one needs pusher
technology, seamless construction and greater airflow--less resistance...but that
potentially may require better piloting techniques/skills over a T-shaped aircraft
as well.
Patrick
N9284W
Piper PA 28-235 '67 curises at 130 kts, can fly for 1000 miles and will
carry 4 adults with fuel and luggage, hard combination to beat in many GA
aircraft.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 vs PA-28-235 |
Tim on the same note as ground speed I've seen our 235 at over 215kts of
ground speed on 22" MP and 2200 rpm (CVG to PHL area 2 plus hours on 22 gallons
of gas) but I've also seen 85 kts on 2350 squared in cruise. Had a trip last
week where we were 195kts ground speed on 21.5" and 2250 rpm's but on the
way up we burned the fuel into the wind to visit the Lycoming
factory/tour...visiting ERic Parlow and others at Williamsport.
The RV 10's numbers are really very nice numbers but Burt Rutan's designs
will beat the 10 in many way's but not in seats per mile...or in ease of
construction. I'm looking forward to riding in my buddy Pete's Velosity...but
in
the time he's spent building the V he could have built 3 RV 10's...but to each
there own.
P
Message 27
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| Subject: | RV10 vs PA-28-235 |
-----------------------------1162922968--
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Turbo Subaru |
In a message dated 11/7/2006 10:12:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bsponcil@belinblank.org writes:
is instead so terse it's nearly useless.
Brian don't you sort of wonder if they glided back down? LOL One hopes
there are lots of power option out there for all, though.
P
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
Be careful. I would expect the exterior skins in that area to be
considered part of the stressed monocoque. Might be better to have
access panel as part of the rear baggage compartment panel, as many
Cessnas do.
On 11/7/06, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Something I was reminded recently of was the issue of serviceability.
> There is a lot of space behind the baggage bulkhead, and potentially
> room for things like Oxygen, air Conditioning, AHRS, Strobe power
> supply, ELT, Elevator servo, Batteries, contactors, etc. etc. With the
> tailcone disconnected, and with the top fuse skin at the rear of the
> cabin off, it's easy to get to these areas, but how will that be
> accomplished when everything is riveted/bolted up, just a thought to
> throw into the mix, its caused me to think seriously about adding a
> hinged access door/panel that would be located behind the baggage
> bulkhead top skin and forward of the tailcone top skin.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>
> > So, is there a reason to locate where Russ has done, or to locate
> > behind the F-1007, further away from the battery? I'm trying to keep
> > the area above the battery free for a future hat shelf, but don't want
> > to place things too far aft if there is a reason one should keep the
> > AHRS and magnetometer closer to, say, the mid of the plane. If either
> > is back further into the tailcone, could that mess up their readings?
> >
> > John Jessen
> > 40328 (closing the tailcone as soon as I locate the shelf for the
> > AHRS/magnetometer)
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> > *Russell Daves
> > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:55 AM
> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the
> > TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone
> >
> > I installed my most forward cross member as close to the F-1006 as
> > possible, and just behind the bolts joining the F-1046 and F-1032
> > Longerons together, almost directly above the battery. I have had
> > no problems with interference, except where I failed to use brass
> > bolts and washers to install the magnameter onto the shelf.
> >
> > Since the duel AHRS and magnameters are all on a shelf next to
> > each other in the center of the fuselage the left and right seat
> > belt cables just cross above the cross members and are no
> > problem. If you were to install the AHRS or magnameter next to
> > the fuselage side wall they could cause interference.
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Russ Daves
> > N710RV flying
> >
> >
> >*
> >
> >href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> >href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> >href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
> >href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> >href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >
> >*
> >
> > -- No virus found in this Edition. Release Date: 11/6/2006
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > 11/6/2006
> >
> >*
> >
> >
> >*
> >
>
>
Message 30
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Mark
How difficult was the windshield replacement. When looking at the -10 at
Van's, I wondered how difficult replacement would be given that it is
'glassed in (or so it appeared).
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643 - Started construction yesterday!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
Just removed my windshield due to a deep scratch on the inside as a result
of a passenger putting their headset on the glare shield - bad idea to put
anything on the glare shield that will scratch the windshield. Tried using
Scratch Off using fingers to rub the compound as the space was to tight for
a buffer. Bad idea as I managed to create an ugly distortion. The old
window is out and the new one is trimmed to fit and ready to glue in.
As posted earlier I coated all the plexiglas with Spray Lat (Aircraft
Spruce) before trimming and installation. Worked great.
Mark (N410MR - Was flying)
>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
>Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2006 10:10:20 -0700
>
>
>I'd also like to hear from anyone who's used this or any other 'REMOVABLE'
>coating to protect their plexi during the install process. there was a
>thread posted recently about a builder that had developed optical 'waves'
>after removing some scratched incurred during the install. I'm nearing this
>step/s and have a selfish interest.
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
>
>>Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your windows
>>when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to a protective
>>film.............then wash it off when done painting. Was wondering if it
>>would provide protection when glueing the window in also..........protect
>>against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.
>>
>>It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.
>>
>>Dean 40449
>>
>>*
>>*
>>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Live Search!
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
I second that. I would be very careful putting any access panels in the ou
ter skins.=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom
: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent:
Tuesday, November 7, 2006 2:02:24 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Before closi
ng up the top of the TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone=0A
=0A=0ABe careful. I would expect the exterior skins in that area to be=0Aco
nsidered part of the stressed monocoque. Might be better to have=0Aaccess p
anel as part of the rear baggage compartment panel, as many=0ACessnas do.
=0A=0AOn 11/7/06, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:=0A> --> RV10-List
message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>=0A>=0A> Something I wa
s reminded recently of was the issue of serviceability.=0A> There is a lot
of space behind the baggage bulkhead, and potentially=0A> room for things
like Oxygen, air Conditioning, AHRS, Strobe power=0A> supply, ELT, Elevator
servo, Batteries, contactors, etc. etc. With the=0A> tailcone disconnected
, and with the top fuse skin at the rear of the=0A> cabin off, it's easy to
get to these areas, but how will that be=0A> accomplished when everything
is riveted/bolted up, just a thought to=0A> throw into the mix, its caused
me to think seriously about adding a=0A> hinged access door/panel that wou
ld be located behind the baggage=0A> bulkhead top skin and forward of the
tailcone top skin.=0A>=0A> Deems Davis # 406=0A> Finishing - ( A Misnomer !
)=0A> http://deemsrv10.com/=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> John Jessen wrote:=0A>=0A> > S
o, is there a reason to locate where Russ has done, or to locate=0A> > behi
nd the F-1007, further away from the battery? I'm trying to keep=0A> > the
area above the battery free for a future hat shelf, but don't want=0A> > t
o place things too far aft if there is a reason one should keep the=0A> > A
HRS and magnetometer closer to, say, the mid of the plane. If either=0A> >
is back further into the tailcone, could that mess up their readings?=0A>
>=0A> > John Jessen=0A> > 40328 (closing the tailcone as soon as I locate
the shelf for the=0A> > AHRS/magnetometer)=0A> >=0A> > ---------------
---------------------------------------------------------=0A> > *From:*
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com=0A> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-ser
ver@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of=0A> > *Russell Daves=0A> > *Sent:*
Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:55 AM=0A> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
=0A> > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the=0A> >
TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone=0A> >=0A> > I in
stalled my most forward cross member as close to the F-1006 as=0A> > po
ssible, and just behind the bolts joining the F-1046 and F-1032=0A> > L
ongerons together, almost directly above the battery. I have had=0A> >
no problems with interference, except where I failed to use brass=0A> >
bolts and washers to install the magnameter onto the shelf.=0A> >=0A> >
Since the duel AHRS and magnameters are all on a shelf next to=0A> >
each other in the center of the fuselage the left and right seat=0A> >
belt cables just cross above the cross members and are no=0A> > proble
m. If you were to install the AHRS or magnameter next to=0A> > the fus
elage side wall they could cause interference.=0A> >=0A> > Best regards
,=0A> >=0A> > Russ Daves=0A> > N710RV flying=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >*=0A>
>=0A> >href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com>=0A> >hre
f="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com>=0A> >href="http
://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com>=0A> >href="http://www.homebuilthelp.co
m">www.homebuilthelp.com>=0A> >href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A> >=0A> >*=0A> >
=0A> > -- No virus found in this Edition. Release Date: 11/6/2006=0A> >
=0A> >=0A> > --=0A> > No virus found in this outgoing message.=0A> > 11/6/2
=======================
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
Sounds like bubkis to me. You are better off keeping the heat in the
pipe and getting it out of the cowling. Also, John Forsling has the
exact opposite recommendation. That being to have pipes ceramic coated
for the reason I mentioned.
One big word of caution on using a wrap, the main reason a lot of
people don't like it in aircraft is because it happens to be good at
holding on to liquids like oil. Not something you want in large
quantity in contact with a very hot exhaust and no way to pull over if
it ignites.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 (2 more weeks to retrieving my project in TX)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 9:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
Scooter,
Roger that. I talked to Larry on the phone for about 15 minutes on
this very subject. He is totally against wrapping the pipes and also
against coating the pipes. I can't remember the exact converstaion (it
was before LOE 2006), but it has something to do with the pipes being a
heat sink on an aircooled engine.
Zack
Message 33
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I know Spray Lat has been very popular with various builders. I
recall it discussed in the past on the Canard list-serv and I think the
RV list here. One important thing is make sure you put enough coats on
so you can peel it off easily. If you get it on too thin it's not the
most fun stuff in the world to get off.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
I'd also like to hear from anyone who's used this or any other
'REMOVABLE' coating to protect their plexi during the install process.
there was a thread posted recently about a builder that had developed
optical 'waves' after removing some scratched incurred during the
install. I'm nearing this step/s and have a selfish interest.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your
> windows when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to a
> protective film.............then wash it off when done painting. Was
> wondering if it would provide protection when glueing the window in
> also..........protect against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.
>
> It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.
>
> Dean 40449
>
>*
>*
>
Message 34
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Do some research on Micromesh vs. Novus. Both products are available
through A/S. The process to remove scratches is a valuable skill set.
Distortion in the forward windscreen area is really important not to
induce. Get a polarizing lens from a hobby shop and view your product
before installation. Watch the stresses inflicted during adhesion.
LP plastics has a great document on the care and feeding of Plexiglas.
Copious amounts of water is always best. Don't scratch it is second.
John C
#40600
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
I'd also like to hear from anyone who's used this or any other
'REMOVABLE' coating to protect their plexi during the install process.
there was a thread posted recently about a builder that had developed
optical 'waves' after removing some scratched incurred during the
install. I'm nearing this step/s and have a selfish interest.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your
> windows when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to a
> protective film.............then wash it off when done painting. Was
> wondering if it would provide protection when glueing the window in
> also..........protect against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.
>
> It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.
>
> Dean 40449
>
>*
>*
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | FW: [LML] Micromesh competition |
>From my archives
John C
#600
-----Original Message-----
From: fmoreno4@postoffice.pacbell.net
[mailto:fmoreno4@postoffice.pacbell.net]
Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 9:20 AM
Subject: [LML] Micromesh competition
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
<< Lancair Builders' Mail List >>
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
While at OSH I saw a demo in a 3M booth in which they showed their new
plexiglas repair and polish products. Wonderful stuff. Starting with a
Bosch (or similar) electrical orbital sander using a foam backed 5 inch
disk, they removed a major set of scratches in about 5 minutes. You
spray soapy water, sand for a minute with special coarse material, then
go finer and finer (one minute each) and then hand rub with their
finishing compound. They provide a complete kit on their web site,
www.3m.com/finishingsystems
They also have an aluminum polishing kit that uses WD-40 as a lubricant,
and requires rubbing by hand, but it seems far superior to other buffing
systems I have seen.
I spoke at length to one of the representatives about using their
products for final sanding and buffing of polyurethane paint (including
clear coats) on the planes. He had just finished doing his personal
Corvette using their products and the orbital sander eliminating a lot
of hand labor. He used a thick, soft foam pad to support the sandpaper
so he could follow the contours of the body. His recommendation was to
sand with "3M Imperial Microfinishing Film" using 9 micron grade
equivalent to 1200 US mesh grade (wet sanding), then to to 3 micron,
then final buff with their "Finesse" compound. They sell sanding disks
with both hook and loop attqchment and sticky attachment. The stickies
seem to work fine, even on the flexible foam support pats (whch have a
skin of flexible plastic to which the sticky stuff bonds).
A note on abrasives. Apparently the old US grading system (100, 400,
600 1200 etc.) is based on using particle sizes that are sifted and thus
the abrasive on the sandpaper is actually sized over a range of particle
diameters. One can buy 1200 grit sandpaper that could have quite a few
individual 600 grit (or larger) particles bonded on the paper. More
expensive sand paper has narrow size ranges of particles. The 3M
products for plexiglas are actually formed pyramids on the paper (you
can see them in rows with a magnifying glass) and they are all the same
size so you get very uniform results with no chance of scratching
because of stray big particle on the sand paper. I tried it, and it is
great stuff.
I bought some of their coarser grades as well (100 micron, 60, 30) and I
have been using them to flatten my prime coats with excellent results.
The sandpaper does not load up, and the orbital sander is the way to
go. I use long boards in some areas (I did wings exclusively this way)
but for the curves of the fuselage, the results on the primer have been
great.
Fred Moreno
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html
LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair
Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Care of Aero Plastics |
These two files should already be in your library <<CAREINS[1].pdf>>
<<DRILTRIM.pdf>>
John Cox
#40600
Message 37
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Les - We removed the window by cutting (die grinder) around the perimeter of
the window. Then using a screw driver pried up the plexiglas that was glued
(I used Hysol Glue not Weld 10) to the flanges (sides and top). Took
several hours but it eventually came off. A router would also work. Sanded
the flanges to get remaining glue off. The fiberglass on the fuselage
popped off very easily.
Don't know how difficult the job would have been if I had used Weld 10.
If you use Spray Lat to protect the windows in addition to putting it on
thick don't leave it on for more than a year.
Mark (N410MR - Almost flying again)
>From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Slime HS
>Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2006 12:16:28 -0700
>
>
>Mark
>
>How difficult was the windshield replacement. When looking at the -10 at
>Van's, I wondered how difficult replacement would be given that it is
>'glassed in (or so it appeared).
>
>Inquiring minds need to know...
>
>Les Kearney
>#40643 - Started construction yesterday!
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
>Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:51 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
>
>
>Just removed my windshield due to a deep scratch on the inside as a result
>of a passenger putting their headset on the glare shield - bad idea to put
>anything on the glare shield that will scratch the windshield. Tried using
>Scratch Off using fingers to rub the compound as the space was to tight for
>a buffer. Bad idea as I managed to create an ugly distortion. The old
>window is out and the new one is trimmed to fit and ready to glue in.
>
>As posted earlier I coated all the plexiglas with Spray Lat (Aircraft
>Spruce) before trimming and installation. Worked great.
>
>Mark (N410MR - Was flying)
>
>
> >From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> >To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
> >Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2006 10:10:20 -0700
> >
> >
> >I'd also like to hear from anyone who's used this or any other
>'REMOVABLE'
> >coating to protect their plexi during the install process. there was a
> >thread posted recently about a builder that had developed optical 'waves'
> >after removing some scratched incurred during the install. I'm nearing
>this
>
> >step/s and have a selfish interest.
> >
> >Deems Davis # 406
> >Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> >http://deemsrv10.com/
> >
> >ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> >
> >>Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your windows
> >>when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to a protective
> >>film.............then wash it off when done painting. Was wondering if
>it
>
> >>would provide protection when glueing the window in
>also..........protect
> >>against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.
> >>
> >>It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.
> >>
> >>Dean 40449
> >>
> >>*
> >>*
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Live Search!
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Live Search!
Message 38
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| Subject: | FW: [BostonRVBuilders] Hooker Harness deal is ready for public |
consumption!
Just an FYI for a Hooker Harness group purchase post that came my way.
John Jessen
do not archive
_____
From: BostonRVBuilders@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:BostonRVBuilders@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John Sweeny
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: [BostonRVBuilders] Hooker Harness deal is ready for public
consumption!
John, I am in...I am working on the finishing kit of an rv 8. let me know
how to participate.
John Sannizzaro <HYPERLINK
"mailto:N357JS%40adelphia.net"N357JS@adelphia.-net> wrote: Hey All,
In case you didn't spot my post on the www.vansairfore.-net site, I am
schwingin' a deal on Hooker Harnesses!
We ought to get about $100 off per set in volume! The deal expires in
one month! ACT NOW! Operators are standing by!
See:
HYPERLINK
"http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=12093"http://www.van
sairf-orce.com/-community/-showthread.-php?t=12093
for more 411.
Email me back if you have any questions!
:) John "Captain John" Sannizzaro
------------------------------------
Sponsored Link
Talk more and pay less. Vonage can save you up to $300 a year on your phone
bill. Sign up now.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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required)
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__,_._,___
--
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Message 39
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| Subject: | Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM |
Hi All
A few weeks ago I asked about priming. After a lot of thought, I decided
against most of the products currently in use primarily because I didn't
want to use really noxious chemicals in an attached garage. As well,
volatile hydrocarbons may have been interesting to use in the presence
of a
natgas garage heater.
The product I decided to use is Sherwin Williams DTM (direct to metal)
primer. It is water based and not as chemically interesting as other
products. Today was day 2 of construction and my first experience with
priming. I found the DTM easy to use with a standard air sprayer. Odor
wise,
it wasn't all that bad although I did use a cartridge air mask just to
be
safe as it was too cold to do this outside. It takes only a couple of
hours
to dry and seems to be reasonably scratch resistant.
Can any of the primer experts on the list provide guidance as to how
thick
primer should be applied? Looking at the results of my work, it is
apparent
that I wasn't consistent in the application. Some parts seemed to have a
much heaver coat than others. On some parts the primer is translucent
while
on others it covers completely. My feeling is that I should go lighter
rather than heavier but am not sure.
Comments? Suggestions?
Inquiring minds need to know .
Les Kearney
#40643 - Day 2 of long journey
Message 40
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| Subject: | The Yard - Tools |
Hi
A while back I traded emails regarding tools. I thought I would pass on
a
recommendation regarding the Yard Shop. I bought most of my tools from
them
(with bits and bobs from Avery & Cleaveland).
There was one problem with my order in that the used microstops I bought
did
not fit my =BC=94 palm drill (I was told they would). When I called
today and
explained the situation they said right off they would make it right.
After
confirming they had what I wanted, they said they would send out
replacements today ' at no charge to me. As well, they told me to keep
the
ones sent in error. They made a point of saying this is how they do
business.
When I was checking their prices, I found their =93list prices=94 lower
than
their competitors.
For those looking for tools, check out www.yardstore.com
<http://www.yardstore.com/> . They are very friendly people.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab
Do not archive
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
Good point Kelly !, thanks for keeping this Dreamer grounded in a safer
reality. Could it be accomplished by installing sufficient doublers
around the opening? And rather than making it hinged, using closely
spaced nutplates to attach the access?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Be careful. I would expect the exterior skins in that area to be
> considered part of the stressed monocoque. Might be better to have
> access panel as part of the rear baggage compartment panel, as many
> Cessnas do.
>
> On 11/7/06, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Something I was reminded recently of was the issue of serviceability.
>> There is a lot of space behind the baggage bulkhead, and potentially
>> room for things like Oxygen, air Conditioning, AHRS, Strobe power
>> supply, ELT, Elevator servo, Batteries, contactors, etc. etc. With the
>> tailcone disconnected, and with the top fuse skin at the rear of the
>> cabin off, it's easy to get to these areas, but how will that be
>> accomplished when everything is riveted/bolted up, just a thought to
>> throw into the mix, its caused me to think seriously about adding a
>> hinged access door/panel that would be located behind the baggage
>> bulkhead top skin and forward of the tailcone top skin.
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> John Jessen wrote:
>>
>> > So, is there a reason to locate where Russ has done, or to locate
>> > behind the F-1007, further away from the battery? I'm trying to keep
>> > the area above the battery free for a future hat shelf, but don't want
>> > to place things too far aft if there is a reason one should keep the
>> > AHRS and magnetometer closer to, say, the mid of the plane. If either
>> > is back further into the tailcone, could that mess up their readings?
>> >
>> > John Jessen
>> > 40328 (closing the tailcone as soon as I locate the shelf for the
>> > AHRS/magnetometer)
>> >
>> >
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
>> > *Russell Daves
>> > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:55 AM
>> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the
>> > TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone
>> >
>> > I installed my most forward cross member as close to the F-1006 as
>> > possible, and just behind the bolts joining the F-1046 and F-1032
>> > Longerons together, almost directly above the battery. I have had
>> > no problems with interference, except where I failed to use brass
>> > bolts and washers to install the magnameter onto the shelf.
>> >
>> > Since the duel AHRS and magnameters are all on a shelf next to
>> > each other in the center of the fuselage the left and right seat
>> > belt cables just cross above the cross members and are no
>> > problem. If you were to install the AHRS or magnameter next to
>> > the fuselage side wall they could cause interference.
>> >
>> > Best regards,
>> >
>> > Russ Daves
>> > N710RV flying
>> >
>> >
>> >*
>> >
>> >href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>> >href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>> >href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
>> >href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> >href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> >
>> >*
>> >
>> > -- No virus found in this Edition. Release Date: 11/6/2006
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> > 11/6/2006
>> >
>> >*
>> >
>> >
>> >*
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: The Yard - Tools |
I while back I ordered two drill bit boxes from them, one empty & one
full along with some other stuff. They sent me two empty ones. I called
and was told the full one would be enroute that same day & to just keep
the extra empty one. Have gone back several times for used tools etc.
Always pleased. KABONG (GBA & GWB) Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 5:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: The Yard - Tools
Hi
A while back I traded emails regarding tools. I thought I would pass
on a recommendation regarding the Yard Shop. I bought most of my tools
from them (with bits and bobs from Avery & Cleaveland).
There was one problem with my order in that the used microstops I
bought did not fit my =BC" palm drill (I was told they would). When I
called today and explained the situation they said right off they would
make it right. After confirming they had what I wanted, they said they
would send out replacements today - at no charge to me. As well, they
told me to keep the ones sent in error. They made a point of saying this
is how they do business.
When I was checking their prices, I found their "list prices" lower
than their competitors.
For those looking for tools, check out www.yardstore.com. They are
very friendly people.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab
Do not archive
Message 43
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|
I wanted to use Spray Lat but it is NO LONGER available.
DEAN 40440
________________________________________________________________________
<html><P>I wanted to use Spray Lat but it is NO LONGER available.</P>
<P> </P>
<P>DEAN 40440</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM |
The most tragic conclusion is finding that a specific selection of
primer is not compatible for long term adhesion of the Top Coat selected
later. The decisions need to go hand in hand.
Choose Wisely.
John Cox
#600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 4:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM
Hi All
A few weeks ago I asked about priming. After a lot of thought, I decided
against most of the products currently in use primarily because I didn't
want to use really noxious chemicals in an attached garage. As well,
volatile hydrocarbons may have been interesting to use in the presence
of a natgas garage heater.
The product I decided to use is Sherwin Williams DTM (direct to metal)
primer. It is water based and not as chemically interesting as other
products. Today was day 2 of construction and my first experience with
priming. I found the DTM easy to use with a standard air sprayer. Odor
wise, it wasn't all that bad although I did use a cartridge air mask
just to be safe as it was too cold to do this outside. It takes only a
couple of hours to dry and seems to be reasonably scratch resistant.
Can any of the primer experts on the list provide guidance as to how
thick primer should be applied? Looking at the results of my work, it is
apparent that I wasn't consistent in the application. Some parts seemed
to have a much heaver coat than others. On some parts the primer is
translucent while on others it covers completely. My feeling is that I
should go lighter rather than heavier but am not sure.
Comments? Suggestions?
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
#40643 - Day 2 of long journey
Message 45
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Here's a couple places:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/spraylat.php
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=2235/index.h
t
ml
Not sure who you checked with but try AS or Wicks.
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 7:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Slime HS
I wanted to use Spray Lat but it is NO LONGER available.
DEAN 40440
________________________________________________________________________
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
I'd consider the ability to keep it water tight as well.
One other way of thinking about these considerations is just to not bother
planning ahead. Just finish the airframe and then install the various
pieces of gear. then you will be sure that it can be serviced later and you
will have figured out the best way to contort yourself to get at it for the
future maintenance.
-Chris Lucas
#40072 (cabin side skins)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore
closing up the top of the Tailcone
>
> Good point Kelly !, thanks for keeping this Dreamer grounded in a safer
> reality. Could it be accomplished by installing sufficient doublers around
> the opening? And rather than making it hinged, using closely spaced
> nutplates to attach the access?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>>
>> Be careful. I would expect the exterior skins in that area to be
>> considered part of the stressed monocoque. Might be better to have
>> access panel as part of the rear baggage compartment panel, as many
>> Cessnas do.
>>
>> On 11/7/06, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Something I was reminded recently of was the issue of serviceability.
>>> There is a lot of space behind the baggage bulkhead, and potentially
>>> room for things like Oxygen, air Conditioning, AHRS, Strobe power
>>> supply, ELT, Elevator servo, Batteries, contactors, etc. etc. With the
>>> tailcone disconnected, and with the top fuse skin at the rear of the
>>> cabin off, it's easy to get to these areas, but how will that be
>>> accomplished when everything is riveted/bolted up, just a thought to
>>> throw into the mix, its caused me to think seriously about adding a
>>> hinged access door/panel that would be located behind the baggage
>>> bulkhead top skin and forward of the tailcone top skin.
>>>
>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> John Jessen wrote:
>>>
>>> > So, is there a reason to locate where Russ has done, or to locate
>>> > behind the F-1007, further away from the battery? I'm trying to keep
>>> > the area above the battery free for a future hat shelf, but don't want
>>> > to place things too far aft if there is a reason one should keep the
>>> > AHRS and magnetometer closer to, say, the mid of the plane. If either
>>> > is back further into the tailcone, could that mess up their readings?
>>> >
>>> > John Jessen
>>> > 40328 (closing the tailcone as soon as I locate the shelf for the
>>> > AHRS/magnetometer)
>>> >
>>> >
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
>>> > *Russell Daves
>>> > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:55 AM
>>> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the
>>> > TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone
>>> >
>>> > I installed my most forward cross member as close to the F-1006 as
>>> > possible, and just behind the bolts joining the F-1046 and F-1032
>>> > Longerons together, almost directly above the battery. I have had
>>> > no problems with interference, except where I failed to use brass
>>> > bolts and washers to install the magnameter onto the shelf.
>>> >
>>> > Since the duel AHRS and magnameters are all on a shelf next to
>>> > each other in the center of the fuselage the left and right seat
>>> > belt cables just cross above the cross members and are no
>>> > problem. If you were to install the AHRS or magnameter next to
>>> > the fuselage side wall they could cause interference.
>>> >
>>> > Best regards,
>>> >
>>> > Russ Daves
>>> > N710RV flying
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >*
>>> >
>>> >href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>>> >href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>>> >href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
>>> >href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>>> >href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>
>>> >
>>> >*
>>> >
>>> > -- No virus found in this Edition. Release Date: 11/6/2006
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > --
>>> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
>>> > 11/6/2006
>>> >
>>> >*
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >*
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Archives and willingness to comment |
AV8ORJWC wrote:
> Maybe those archives are getting a workout? Any opinion, before I go back to
the silence?
What I find curious is the fact that a lot of the most informative, prolific posters
on the list have a generic "Do Not Archive" appended to their signatures.
What's up with that? :-O
--------
Empennage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72974#72974
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
Perhaps, but do you want to be the designer? I don't know how critical
those areas are.
I know you can safely go through the back panel of the baggage
compartment..maybe not as convenient, but a lot less risky to the
structure when you need to do a high G pull out.
On 11/7/06, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Good point Kelly !, thanks for keeping this Dreamer grounded in a safer
> reality. Could it be accomplished by installing sufficient doublers
> around the opening? And rather than making it hinged, using closely
> spaced nutplates to attach the access?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> >
> > Be careful. I would expect the exterior skins in that area to be
> > considered part of the stressed monocoque. Might be better to have
> > access panel as part of the rear baggage compartment panel, as many
> > Cessnas do.
> >
> > On 11/7/06, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Something I was reminded recently of was the issue of serviceability.
> >> There is a lot of space behind the baggage bulkhead, and potentially
> >> room for things like Oxygen, air Conditioning, AHRS, Strobe power
> >> supply, ELT, Elevator servo, Batteries, contactors, etc. etc. With the
> >> tailcone disconnected, and with the top fuse skin at the rear of the
> >> cabin off, it's easy to get to these areas, but how will that be
> >> accomplished when everything is riveted/bolted up, just a thought to
> >> throw into the mix, its caused me to think seriously about adding a
> >> hinged access door/panel that would be located behind the baggage
> >> bulkhead top skin and forward of the tailcone top skin.
> >>
> >> Deems Davis # 406
> >> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> >> http://deemsrv10.com/
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> John Jessen wrote:
> >>
> >> > So, is there a reason to locate where Russ has done, or to locate
> >> > behind the F-1007, further away from the battery? I'm trying to keep
> >> > the area above the battery free for a future hat shelf, but don't want
> >> > to place things too far aft if there is a reason one should keep the
> >> > AHRS and magnetometer closer to, say, the mid of the plane. If either
> >> > is back further into the tailcone, could that mess up their readings?
> >> >
> >> > John Jessen
> >> > 40328 (closing the tailcone as soon as I locate the shelf for the
> >> > AHRS/magnetometer)
> >> >
> >> >
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> >> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> >> > *Russell Daves
> >> > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:55 AM
> >> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> >> > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Before closing up the top of the
> >> > TailconeBefore closing up the top of the Tailcone
> >> >
> >> > I installed my most forward cross member as close to the F-1006 as
> >> > possible, and just behind the bolts joining the F-1046 and F-1032
> >> > Longerons together, almost directly above the battery. I have had
> >> > no problems with interference, except where I failed to use brass
> >> > bolts and washers to install the magnameter onto the shelf.
> >> >
> >> > Since the duel AHRS and magnameters are all on a shelf next to
> >> > each other in the center of the fuselage the left and right seat
> >> > belt cables just cross above the cross members and are no
> >> > problem. If you were to install the AHRS or magnameter next to
> >> > the fuselage side wall they could cause interference.
> >> >
> >> > Best regards,
> >> >
> >> > Russ Daves
> >> > N710RV flying
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >*
> >> >
> >> >href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> >> >href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> >> >href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
> >> >href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> >> >href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >>
> >> >
> >> >*
> >> >
> >> > -- No virus found in this Edition. Release Date: 11/6/2006
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > --
> >> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> >> > 11/6/2006
> >> >
> >> >*
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >*
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Before closing up the top of the TailconeBefore closing |
up the top of the Tailcone
Actually water tight is easy...the USAF way.
Apply a light coat of proseal the the face of the joggle but not too close to the
holes and not the panel. Place a sheet of the "good" plastic wrap like 1 or
2 mil visqueen tightly over the opening, no wrinkles, on top of the proseal AFTER
using a hole punch to open up the screw holes, (line the holes up too) install
the panel with a bit of petro jelly on each screw snug up the screws and
let it sit for a day or two. Remove the panel and using a sharp razor knfe...X-acto
works good trim the opening, a single edge razor blade works gfood to get
the ozzed bead off the edge of the joggle outside of the skin. I've use this
technique to reseal more access panels on the F-16 than I can think about.
Rick S.
40185
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Archives and willingness to comment |
Yep, that'd be me. I hate to archive a jumbled pile of garbage, but
when I find true gems, I try to write up one good post and then
get rid of the "do not archive" tag. If everything were nicely
trimmed, and straightforwardly written, I'd archive it more often.
Some times it just from forgetting to remove it though. I put it there
by default because the last thing I want is some of my drivel like this
one to be archived by accident. I'm not going anywhere soon, so
if the question comes up again I don't mind answering it again.
While there is great value in archives, and I definitely see that,
I also think there's great value in interactive Q&A. There are too
many lurker-only types as it is, and perhaps by forcing them to
ask a question once in a while, it'll help bring them out and
keep a more active "community".
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Roadster wrote:
>
>
> AV8ORJWC wrote:
>> Maybe those archives are getting a workout? Any opinion, before I go back to
the silence?
>
>
> What I find curious is the fact that a lot of the most informative, prolific
posters on the list have a generic "Do Not Archive" appended to their signatures.
What's up with that? :-O
>
> --------
> Empennage
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72974#72974
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM |
Hmmm
John, choosing wisely can be difficult if one is in the dark. From all I
have been able to read, priming is a very dark art. That being said, my
plan
is to prime only interior components and to leave the exterior surfaces
to
the experts.
On the other hand, I do know a very good paint shop and perhaps will
have a
chat with them just to be sure..
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 7:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM
The most tragic conclusion is finding that a specific selection of
primer is
not compatible for long term adhesion of the Top Coat selected later.
The
decisions need to go hand in hand.
Choose Wisely.
John Cox
#600
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 4:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM
Hi All
A few weeks ago I asked about priming. After a lot of thought, I decided
against most of the products currently in use primarily because I didn't
want to use really noxious chemicals in an attached garage. As well,
volatile hydrocarbons may have been interesting to use in the presence
of a
natgas garage heater.
The product I decided to use is Sherwin Williams DTM (direct to metal)
primer. It is water based and not as chemically interesting as other
products. Today was day 2 of construction and my first experience with
priming. I found the DTM easy to use with a standard air sprayer. Odor
wise,
it wasn't all that bad although I did use a cartridge air mask just to
be
safe as it was too cold to do this outside. It takes only a couple of
hours
to dry and seems to be reasonably scratch resistant.
Can any of the primer experts on the list provide guidance as to how
thick
primer should be applied? Looking at the results of my work, it is
apparent
that I wasn't consistent in the application. Some parts seemed to have a
much heaver coat than others. On some parts the primer is translucent
while
on others it covers completely. My feeling is that I should go lighter
rather than heavier but am not sure.
Comments? Suggestions?
Inquiring minds need to know .
Les Kearney
#40643 - Day 2 of long journey
<http://www.buildersbooks.com> www.buildersbooks.com
www.kitlog.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Archives and willingness to comment |
Tim or anyone with a rudder attached,
Here's a question? I am looking for the travel length of the rudder cable.
Stop to stop. Should be easy to measure it at the tail. This will save me
remounting the rudder (in storage now) on the tailcone. I am working on a
change for the rudder control assembly.
I may be a lurker, but I have truly enjoyed and learned a great deal from
all the input on this list.
A big thanks to you Tim, and all the others that have added to the success
and enjoyment of RV10 construction.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450 firewall & forward tunnel
Portland, OR 97219
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Archives and willingness to comment
>
> Yep, that'd be me. I hate to archive a jumbled pile of garbage, but
> when I find true gems, I try to write up one good post and then
> get rid of the "do not archive" tag. If everything were nicely
> trimmed, and straightforwardly written, I'd archive it more often.
> Some times it just from forgetting to remove it though. I put it there
> by default because the last thing I want is some of my drivel like this
> one to be archived by accident. I'm not going anywhere soon, so
> if the question comes up again I don't mind answering it again.
> While there is great value in archives, and I definitely see that,
> I also think there's great value in interactive Q&A. There are too
> many lurker-only types as it is, and perhaps by forcing them to
> ask a question once in a while, it'll help bring them out and
> keep a more active "community".
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Roadster wrote:
>> <swilliams5688@wideopenwest.com>
>>
>>
>> AV8ORJWC wrote:
>>> Maybe those archives are getting a workout? Any opinion, before I go
>>> back to the silence?
>>
>>
>> What I find curious is the fact that a lot of the most informative,
>> prolific posters on the list have a generic "Do Not Archive" appended to
>> their signatures. What's up with that? :-O
>>
>> --------
>> Empennage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72974#72974
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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