Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:55 AM - Re: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot (Wayne Edgerton)
2. 06:07 AM - Re: Control Stick Engagement (Scott Gesele)
3. 06:07 AM - Re: Control Stick Engagement (Scott Gesele)
4. 06:14 AM - Re: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued (Wayne Edgerton)
5. 06:47 AM - Re: RV10 PSP Proficienty & Safety Program Objectives -Draft (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
6. 07:04 AM - Re: Teetering on the edge (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
7. 07:22 AM - RV10PSP - stay away from 'Builder' (Deems Davis)
8. 10:54 AM - Re: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued again! (linn Walters)
9. 11:08 AM - Re: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot (Chris Stanley)
10. 11:18 AM - Re: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued again! (Kelly McMullen)
11. 11:46 AM - Re: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot (John Cram)
12. 01:07 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe (rv10builder)
13. 01:36 PM - insurance (linn Walters)
14. 02:58 PM - Re: insurance (Rob Kermanj)
15. 03:19 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe (Rob Wright)
16. 04:11 PM - Re: insurance (Mark Ritter)
17. 04:39 PM - Re: insurance (Chris Johnston)
18. 05:24 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe (Larry Rosen)
19. 05:41 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe (Deems Davis)
20. 05:44 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe (thanks!) (rv10builder)
21. 05:59 PM - Re: insurance (Mark Ritter)
22. 06:21 PM - Re: Trim cables question (johngoodman)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot |
Deems,
I really like your idea on training and forums. I owned a Bonanza and
then a Baron for quite a few years and each year I would attend American
Bonanza Society recurrent training sessions held in different locations
each year and they were absolutely great. By going to different
locations it kept my wife interested because she got a new place to shop
:>}
They would put on some great forums on a multitude of aviation subjects,
weather, maintenance, regs,etc. We would also go out with seasoned
instructors for training and they would then do your bi-annual write
off, but in my case, because I went each year, it would end up being
annual. Boy with all the airline pilots with RV's I would think we could
get some good instructors for these events.
We had one year where we went to Colorado Springs and they put on a
mountain flying coarse which I thoroughly enjoyed. We flew into Aspen
and into Leadville, which is the highest airport in North America at
9927 ft. They perform a little different at those altitudes.
Also they would put on a pinch hitter coarse for those flying with us,
usually our wife's, where they would teach them about flying and where
they could help out in the process. For instance teaching them about the
"sterile cockpit" during critical parts of the flight. On the side I
also had my wife take flight instructions just on the basics on how to
control and land the plane in case she ever had to. I thought this is
something that could be taught at one of these types of gatherings while
the pilots were in a forum. I know the wife's seemed to enjoy these
sessions.
Someone suggested tagging it on to an event like Sun-N-Fun. The only
problem I see with that is that those are very congested airspaces
during those events and it would possible add a certain level of danger
to it. Also unless a person were to extend their time you would have to
cut short that event to attend the RV events.
Anyway I think it's a great idea which would promote camaraderie amongst
the RV crowd and also serve a great service of recurrent training, which
I know that I need.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
do not archive
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Engagement |
> Time: 09:24:05 AM PST US
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Stick Engagement
> into Control Stick Base.
>
> Good point Jesse. 2 additional comments...
>
> 1) I used a dremel tool sanding drum. Worked well
> to
> deal with the inside of the bore.
>
> 2) Regarding stick wobble/slop: I just dealt with
> this
> myself. I noticed I had a bit of looseness in the
> stick.
> At OSH I compared it to Vic's and he had some too.
> Over
> the last couple weeks I actually got rid of mine
> completely.
> Here's more...
>
> The source of the slop in my case was actually the
> OD of the
> BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313 shown on page 39-8. (see
> attached
> .jpg)
> Or more accurately, the sloppy hole in my WD-1011-L
> & R.
> The way bushings normally work, you want them to
> have one
> movable surface, the ID that rides on the removable
> bolt.
> You want the OD of the bushing to be fixed to the
> WD-1011
> somewhat. The AN4-27 bolt that holds the assembly
> together
> doesn't get cranked really tight, hence the castle
> nut. You
> want to trim the bushing so it's longer than the
> WD-10ll,
> but still fits in the mating part. If necessary,
> you trim
> the WD-1011 shorter. The slop in my case though was
> the OD
> of that bushing, as I mentioned. I could stick the
> bushing
> in, then stick the bolt through, and rock the bolt
> up and
> down slightly, feeling the slop. The reamed ID of
> the
> bushing was very snug on the bolt, but the OD was
> slopping
> around in the WD-1011.
>
> I fixed it by using a loctite product "Loctite quick
> metal
> 660" that I had sitting around from a previous
> bushing
> repair a couple years ago.
>
http://www.chemicalcontacts.co.za/teroson/retainers.htm
> You could probably use many of the ones on this
> page.
> Basically, it just fills the gap and solidifies the
> bushing to the WD-1011, so it now pivots on the
> nicely
> fit bolt. When tightening the AN4-27, you just
> bring it
> up tight, then loosen it to the next castle, so it's
> not sloppy, but non-restrictive. Wala, no more
> stick slop.
>
> The only downside is in the ultra-ultra-long term
> when
> you want to replace the bushing. It'll be tight in
> the
> WD-1011, and will probably require you to drill out
> the
> bushing to the OD size so you can install a new one.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD Flying
Tim,
Let me get this straight, you basically glued the
brass bushing into the control stick and installed
this assembly with a reduced torque on the bolt? What
did Vans say about your modifications to the primary
flight controls on the aircraft? The control stick is
designed to rotate on the brass bushing and the
bushing must be captured firmly in the main weldment.
Right now, all of your wear will be at the end of the
brass bushing (remember your nose gear spacers). When
this does wear down, you will have steel on steel. In
the original design, the bushing is longer than
WD-1011L or R. It is this difference that results in
some minor slop, but it also produced a space that
eliminated any steel on steel wear. As time goes on,
you will lose this size differential. If your bearing
did not fit properly in the stick weldment, then
something was not right. I have installed these
components on both an RV-6A and RV-10. In both
aircraft, there was not any play between the bearing
and weldment. It sound like one of your parts may not
be within tolerance.
Its your airplane and you are the manufacturer, so
install it however you want. I strongly encourage
anyone who is thinking about modifying any critical
system to run the modification by the designer of the
aircraft. Instrument panels, interiors, paint, etc
are open for personal creativeness, primary flight
controls are not.
Scott Gesele
N506RV Flying RV-6A
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Engagement |
> Time: 09:24:05 AM PST US
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Stick Engagement
> into Control Stick Base.
>
> Good point Jesse. 2 additional comments...
>
> 1) I used a dremel tool sanding drum. Worked well
> to
> deal with the inside of the bore.
>
> 2) Regarding stick wobble/slop: I just dealt with
> this
> myself. I noticed I had a bit of looseness in the
> stick.
> At OSH I compared it to Vic's and he had some too.
> Over
> the last couple weeks I actually got rid of mine
> completely.
> Here's more...
>
> The source of the slop in my case was actually the
> OD of the
> BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313 shown on page 39-8. (see
> attached
> .jpg)
> Or more accurately, the sloppy hole in my WD-1011-L
> & R.
> The way bushings normally work, you want them to
> have one
> movable surface, the ID that rides on the removable
> bolt.
> You want the OD of the bushing to be fixed to the
> WD-1011
> somewhat. The AN4-27 bolt that holds the assembly
> together
> doesn't get cranked really tight, hence the castle
> nut. You
> want to trim the bushing so it's longer than the
> WD-10ll,
> but still fits in the mating part. If necessary,
> you trim
> the WD-1011 shorter. The slop in my case though was
> the OD
> of that bushing, as I mentioned. I could stick the
> bushing
> in, then stick the bolt through, and rock the bolt
> up and
> down slightly, feeling the slop. The reamed ID of
> the
> bushing was very snug on the bolt, but the OD was
> slopping
> around in the WD-1011.
>
> I fixed it by using a loctite product "Loctite quick
> metal
> 660" that I had sitting around from a previous
> bushing
> repair a couple years ago.
>
http://www.chemicalcontacts.co.za/teroson/retainers.htm
> You could probably use many of the ones on this
> page.
> Basically, it just fills the gap and solidifies the
> bushing to the WD-1011, so it now pivots on the
> nicely
> fit bolt. When tightening the AN4-27, you just
> bring it
> up tight, then loosen it to the next castle, so it's
> not sloppy, but non-restrictive. Wala, no more
> stick slop.
>
> The only downside is in the ultra-ultra-long term
> when
> you want to replace the bushing. It'll be tight in
> the
> WD-1011, and will probably require you to drill out
> the
> bushing to the OD size so you can install a new one.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD Flying
Tim,
Let me get this straight, you basically glued the
brass bushing into the control stick and installed
this assembly with a reduced torque on the bolt? What
did Vans say about your modifications to the primary
flight controls on the aircraft? The control stick is
designed to rotate on the brass bushing and the
bushing must be captured firmly in the main weldment.
Right now, all of your wear will be at the end of the
brass bushing (remember your nose gear spacers). When
this does wear down, you will have steel on steel. In
the original design, the bushing is longer than
WD-1011L or R. It is this difference that results in
some minor slop, but it also produced a space that
eliminated any steel on steel wear. As time goes on,
you will lose this size differential. If your bearing
did not fit properly in the stick weldment, then
something was not right. I have installed these
components on both an RV-6A and RV-10. In both
aircraft, there was not any play between the bearing
and weldment. It sound like one of your parts may not
be within tolerance.
Its your airplane and you are the manufacturer, so
install it however you want. I strongly encourage
anyone who is thinking about modifying any critical
system to run the modification by the designer of the
aircraft. Instrument panels, interiors, paint, etc
are open for personal creativeness, primary flight
controls are not.
Scott Gesele
N506RV Flying RV-6A
Degrees online in as fast as 1 Yr
MBA, Bachelor's, Master's, Assoc
http://yahoo.degrees.info
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued |
When you attended a Bonanza Society event there was a fee to cover the
expenses they incurred. You can take a look at their format by going to
this web address.
http://www.bppp.org/
Wayne Edgerton #40336
do not archive
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV10 PSP Proficienty & Safety Program Objectives -Draft |
Looks good for a first pass, one suggestion is to separate flying/
maintaining from building. While I understand most of us on this list
and who would be attending will be builders, there will eventually be
many people who bought and are flying, and I would not want to exclude
them because they thought it was a builders course?
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 10:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 PSP Proficienty & Safety Program Objectives
-Draft
If I'm taking up too much bandwidth with this let me know, But I felt
the need to get something short concise and written that would serve to
guide efforts as we go down this path. Some call these Mission
statements, I took a crack at drafting an Objective statement the
intent is the same. If this program is built to meet/suit the needs of
the RV10 community, the communities feedback and input in crafting this
is essential. Please review and critique it, rip it apart, modify it,
and improve it in any way you think will add value or clarify what we
are attempting to do, I'm pretty thick skinned and won't take offense at
any input. I'll digest everything I receive and publish an update when
the input dries up. If we have conflicting input we'll put it back to
the group for a tie breaker. I want to make it clear that I'm not trying
to take ownership of this or to stake out any turf, I'm probably the
least qualified person to tackle something like this, based upon
information that I've seen/received from several, there are many who
have impressive credentials in the area of aviation and safety arena and
are more qualified. So the floor is open for nominations.
I included a VERY high level outline of how we might go about some of
the next steps. Please note there are no time frames on anything at
this point (contradicts my background, but suits my present reality,
which is to make it Fun and not Work) My expectation is that building
this could take months/years. If we can get a community consensus on
Objective, Program Components/Elements and Priorities, we can break
the development and implementation into incremental steps.
Thanks for the interest expressed thus far and any suggestions going
forward
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Teetering on the edge |
I've built both a RV-9A and a RV-10. It took me 2 yr and 7 months to the finish
the 9 in 1863 hours. It was painted except for the cowl and the wheel pants
were not completed. My RV-10 was finished in 1 yr and 10 months for a total
of 2200 hours with no paint or wheel pants. Both of these projects were slow
build. I can say first hand that the 10 has a lot more rivets and a lot more
structure to complete. As you can see the 10 took about 400 more hours and this
was after all the experience I gained from building the 9 first.
Both the 9 and 10 are both fully matched hole so it is really going to come down
to "do you need 2 seats or four seat" or to just want all the extra space to
haul things like camping gear, golf clubs etc. I have to tell you, I love flying
the 10 even if I fly it alone. It handles so nice and if I don't care about
speed, I fly at 20" at 2,000 rpm and burn 8.0 - 8.5 GPH at any altitude for
that $100 hamburger or to the nearest airport to grab breakfast.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
N519RV (40250) Flying
175 hours and counting.
Almost ready for IFR checkride in my RV-10.
Pierre Levy wrote:
> I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this
> week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away
> two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good
> aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement.
> Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the
> build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with
> that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments.
>
>
>
> Pierre Levy
> EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering
> whether to jump off)
>
> *
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV10PSP - stay away from 'Builder' |
Dan great input, I received a similar suggestion from Patrick, There are
a number of people already focused on the building process and I'm not
sure we can/should try to add anything there, probably should stay
focused on the flying / maintaining safely objective.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
>Looks good for a first pass, one suggestion is to separate flying/
>maintaining from building. While I understand most of us on this list
>and who would be attending will be builders, there will eventually be
>many people who bought and are flying, and I would not want to exclude
>them because they thought it was a builders course?
>Dan
>
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued again! |
There still is a fee:
Pricing
Full Course
Tuition
Ground School ONLY (no flying)
Dukes
$1495
$747
Bonanzas, Barons, Travel Airs:
$1295
$647
Non-Pilot Companion Course
$165
Not sure where the fees go. Maybe to offset expenses of the instructors
and course material. I polled my Grumman groups for some insight and
knowledge, but all we have there is an owner that's doing AOPA air
safety seminars. Looks like emulating the BO society's approach will go
a long way to helping RV (10) drivers live longer! I applaud the group
taking a proactive approach to the safety problem. It should pay off
well in the future.
Linn
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> When you attended a Bonanza Society event there was a fee to cover the
> expenses they incurred. You can take a look at their format by going
> to this web address.
>
> http://www.bppp.org/
>
>
> Wayne Edgerton #40336
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot |
I'd like to suggest taking that thought one step further on some other
issues. As more and more -10's get in the air, it seems that the pool ought
to be getting big enough for us to see some performance trends on the
aircraft built by amateurs. What about starting an area where those who
complete "x" number of hours of flight testing report performance of their
aircraft based upon a standard, published testing criteria? If somebody who
knows what they are talking about (that would not be me) in terms of setting
up a standard testing program, and then explaining how to accurately
implement it to us non-math majors, this might work.
We could then have an area where we could post the results. If we do the
tests uniformly and honestly post the results, we could begin to develop
some numbers of the -10 from non-professional builders. That would really
help new builders in terms of what they can reasonably expect and what they
should aspire to. Builders who've flown off their hours and then add any
speed mods could also have an objective standard on expected performance.
I've seen performance results posted here and there in the past, as well as
the inevitable follow-ups questioning the builder's methods of data
collection. Obviously, it's not practical to go the very best route; one
person performing the same set of performance tests on all the planes, but
if we had a standard program each builder could take their new plane
through, and then report the results, we could minimize the subjective bias
in the data as much as possible.
Those of you who have some knowledge about this, post your thoughts and
maybe we can develop something that everyone can start using.
I have been reading this listserv for about a year now, and still can't
figure out the method to the madness. Once I send this post, it disappears
into the ether, and I don't see it again until I stumble across it while
doing my usual reading. Therefore, if you want to post back to the list, it
might be helpful to also copy me if you want me to repond. Matt, if there
is an archive walking us through how to more effectively use the list, let
me know.
Do not archive. (I put that in because I see everyone else doing it --- I
have no idea the reason for doing so. I am a sheep blindly following the
herd. Is a group of sheep called a herd? a clutch? a pride? )
Christopher Stanley
www.christopherstanley.com
Christopher Stanley & Associates, P.C.
1104 Rock Street
Georgetown, Texas 78626
Phone: (512) 869-7566
Fax: (512) 869-8312
NOTICE: The information contained in this electronic mail message is legally
privileged and confidential, intended for the use of the individual(s) or
entities listed above. If the reader of this electronic mail message is not
the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution, or copy of this electronic mail message is strictly
prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail message in error,
please immediately notify us by telephone and destroy this message.
Thank you for your consideration.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued again! |
The Mooney MAPA SF PPP operates about the same schedule, 2.5 days of ground
and flight instruction, 12 hours classroom, 4 hours flying, for $795. They
don't recover full cost at that price and depend on some donations. They
also charge the same for a new owner of a $40K, 45 yr old Mooney as the new
owner of a $400K glass panel new Mooney. That generates some heated
arguments.
At least with the RV-10 you are talking about pretty similar airframes with
about the same powerplants, with most of the variation likely in the
instrument panel equipment. And they will all be relatively new.
You may want to think about minimum requirements of flight experience,
getting rider for the instructor's coverage from the insurer of the owner's
policy, what preflight inspection of the aircraft you want, to protect the
"organization" and the instructor. I don't think you want it to be
transition training, or if so, someone would have to provide the aircraft
and instructor, and probably should be a separate course.
On 11/21/06, linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> There still is a fee:
> Pricing
>
> *Full Course*
> *Tuition*
>
> *Ground School ONLY (no flying)*
>
> Dukes
>
> $1495
>
>
> $747
>
> Bonanzas, Barons, Travel Airs:
>
> $1295
>
>
> $647
>
> Non-Pilot Companion Course
>
> $165
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot |
Flock I believe
John-N721JC (reserved)
40569-emp
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Stanley<mailto:chris@christopherstanley.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot
I'd like to suggest taking that thought one step further on some other
issues. As more and more -10's get in the air, it seems that the pool
ought to be getting big enough for us to see some performance trends on
the aircraft built by amateurs. What about starting an area where those
who complete "x" number of hours of flight testing report performance of
their aircraft based upon a standard, published testing criteria? If
somebody who knows what they are talking about (that would not be me) in
terms of setting up a standard testing program, and then explaining how
to accurately implement it to us non-math majors, this might work.
We could then have an area where we could post the results. If we do
the tests uniformly and honestly post the results, we could begin to
develop some numbers of the -10 from non-professional builders. That
would really help new builders in terms of what they can reasonably
expect and what they should aspire to. Builders who've flown off their
hours and then add any speed mods could also have an objective standard
on expected performance.
I've seen performance results posted here and there in the past, as
well as the inevitable follow-ups questioning the builder's methods of
data collection. Obviously, it's not practical to go the very best
route; one person performing the same set of performance tests on all
the planes, but if we had a standard program each builder could take
their new plane through, and then report the results, we could minimize
the subjective bias in the data as much as possible.
Those of you who have some knowledge about this, post your thoughts
and maybe we can develop something that everyone can start using.
I have been reading this listserv for about a year now, and still
can't figure out the method to the madness. Once I send this post, it
disappears into the ether, and I don't see it again until I stumble
across it while doing my usual reading. Therefore, if you want to post
back to the list, it might be helpful to also copy me if you want me to
repond. Matt, if there is an archive walking us through how to more
effectively use the list, let me know.
Do not archive. (I put that in because I see everyone else doing it
--- I have no idea the reason for doing so. I am a sheep blindly
following the herd. Is a group of sheep called a herd? a clutch? a
pride? )
Christopher Stanley
www.christopherstanley.com<about:blankwww.christopherstanley.com>
Christopher Stanley & Associates, P.C.
1104 Rock Street
Georgetown, Texas 78626
Phone: (512) 869-7566
Fax: (512) 869-8312
NOTICE: The information contained in this electronic mail message is
legally privileged and confidential, intended for the use of the
individual(s) or entities listed above. If the reader of this electronic
mail message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that
any dissemination, distribution, or copy of this electronic mail message
is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail
message in error, please immediately notify us by telephone and destroy
this message.
Thank you for your consideration.
www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
www.buildersbooks.com<http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
www.homebuilthelp.com<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe |
Along that same theme....what type of tubing should we (or can we) use
with the Gretz?
Rob Wright wrote:
>
> Itll be hard to beat the Gretz for price and performance. Its an
> experimental only pitot, but its a smart pitot tube. Other pitots
> throw raw amperage to the tube, which after a while wastes the energy
> on heat and can overheat if forgotten in dry, VMC air. For a very
> comparable price, the Gretz warms the pitot to about 100 degrees F,
> and then through a circuit board reduces the energy to maintain the
> temp at about 100. There is an LED board to let you know status of the
> tube at any time, and the instructions are about middle of the road
> for simplicity. Of course, I like things spelled out very simply though.
>
> Read more about it on Gretzs and Tim Os sites.
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392
>
> Fuse
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick Pulis
> *Sent:* Monday, November 20, 2006 7:03 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
>
> For those of you who have installed (or are considering the
> installation of) a 12 volt heated Pitot tube in your aircraft, could
> you please provide me with an indication of what is being
> installed/considered out there.
>
> I am considering either the Gretz Aero GA-1000 or the Falcon
> (12-AN5812) Pitot tubes or equivalent and would appreciate any
> feedback please.
>
> Has anyone installed and flown their aircraft with an angle of attack
> probe, if so which one and your thoughts regarding the device please.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Pulis
>
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> *www.aeroelectric.com*
> *www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com>*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Those of you with flying airplanes: How much are you paying for
insurance??? I need to know how much/year and how much hull coverage.
I'm comparing the RV-10 to the Grumman AA-5 series, which really
doesn't compare because of their wimpy engines, but inquiring minds want
to know!!!
linn
do not archive
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
$2400 per yr. for (I think) $120,000 hull coverage and liability
from Falcon. I think the rate varies greatly with experience.
do not archive
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 21, 2006, at 4:35 PM, linn Walters wrote:
> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
> Those of you with flying airplanes: How much are you paying for
> insurance??? I need to know how much/year and how much hull
> coverage. I'm comparing the RV-10 to the Grumman AA-5 series, which
> really doesn't compare because of their wimpy engines, but
> inquiring minds want to know!!!
> linn
> do not archive
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe |
It's in the instructions, not sure if they're available on Gretz's site.
You can use either aluminum or "plastic" tubing, a la SafeAir. Instructions
say that if you use the plastic-type tubing to use a short run of metal
tubing before changing to the plastic. I used the 6" metal run built into
the Gretz pitot before I connected the plastic tubing.
Rob Wright
#392
Fuse - soundproofing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
Along that same theme....what type of tubing should we (or can we) use
with the Gretz?
Rob Wright wrote:
>
> It'll be hard to beat the Gretz for price and performance. It's an
> experimental only pitot, but it's a "smart" pitot tube. Other pitots
> throw raw amperage to the tube, which after a while wastes the energy
> on heat and can overheat if forgotten in dry, VMC air. For a very
> comparable price, the Gretz warms the pitot to about 100 degrees F,
> and then through a circuit board reduces the energy to maintain the
> temp at about 100. There is an LED board to let you know status of the
> tube at any time, and the instructions are about middle of the road
> for simplicity. Of course, I like things spelled out very simply though.
>
> Read more about it on Gretz's and Tim O's sites.
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392
>
> Fuse
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick Pulis
> *Sent:* Monday, November 20, 2006 7:03 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
>
> For those of you who have installed (or are considering the
> installation of) a 12 volt heated Pitot tube in your aircraft, could
> you please provide me with an indication of what is being
> installed/considered out there.
>
> I am considering either the Gretz Aero GA-1000 or the Falcon
> (12-AN5812) Pitot tubes or equivalent and would appreciate any
> feedback please.
>
> Has anyone installed and flown their aircraft with an angle of attack
> probe, if so which one and your thoughts regarding the device please.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Pulis
>
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> *www.aeroelectric.com*
> *www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com>*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
$3,000 for $150,000 hull coverage and liability thru Falcon.
Mark (N410MR)
>From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: insurance
>Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 17:57:07 -0500
>
>$2400 per yr. for (I think) $120,000 hull coverage and liability from
>Falcon. I think the rate varies greatly with experience.
>
>do not archive
>Rob Kermanj
>
>
>On Nov 21, 2006, at 4:35 PM, linn Walters wrote:
>
>>
>>Those of you with flying airplanes: How much are you paying for
>>insurance??? I need to know how much/year and how much hull coverage.
>>I'm comparing the RV-10 to the Grumman AA-5 series, which really doesn't
>>compare because of their wimpy engines, but inquiring minds want to
>>know!!!
>>linn
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Share your latest news with your friends with the Windows Live Spaces
friends module.
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
All replying about insurance costs -
Would it be indiscreet to include your total hours and ratings along
with your premium? I think it would help gauge things a bit...
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe |
From the Gretz Instructions (thanks to those that sent them to me):
To plumb the tubing to the airspeed indicator to the pitot tube, the
builder can use either the plastic type of instrument tube or aluminum
tube. If the aluminum tube is used, not the "additional parts needed"
list at the top of this sheet. The builder will need to flair both the
tube from the pitot and the tube coming from the panel. Connect these
together by using the parts listed.
Additional parts needed from another source (for attaching pitot tube to
aluminum line
1 each AN 815-4D union for flared tubes
2 each AN 818-4D nut
2 each AN 819-4D sleeve
As you would expect builders are using both aluminum tube (as per the
plans) and plastic tubing.
Larry
#356
Rob Wright wrote:
>
> It's in the instructions, not sure if they're available on Gretz's site.
> You can use either aluminum or "plastic" tubing, a la SafeAir. Instructions
> say that if you use the plastic-type tubing to use a short run of metal
> tubing before changing to the plastic. I used the 6" metal run built into
> the Gretz pitot before I connected the plastic tubing.
>
> Rob Wright
> #392
> Fuse - soundproofing
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 3:06 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
>
>
> Along that same theme....what type of tubing should we (or can we) use
> with the Gretz?
>
> Rob Wright wrote:
>
>> It'll be hard to beat the Gretz for price and performance. It's an
>> experimental only pitot, but it's a "smart" pitot tube. Other pitots
>> throw raw amperage to the tube, which after a while wastes the energy
>> on heat and can overheat if forgotten in dry, VMC air. For a very
>> comparable price, the Gretz warms the pitot to about 100 degrees F,
>> and then through a circuit board reduces the energy to maintain the
>> temp at about 100. There is an LED board to let you know status of the
>> tube at any time, and the instructions are about middle of the road
>> for simplicity. Of course, I like things spelled out very simply though.
>>
>> Read more about it on Gretz's and Tim O's sites.
>>
>> Rob Wright
>>
>> #392
>>
>> Fuse
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick Pulis
>> *Sent:* Monday, November 20, 2006 7:03 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
>>
>> For those of you who have installed (or are considering the
>> installation of) a 12 volt heated Pitot tube in your aircraft, could
>> you please provide me with an indication of what is being
>> installed/considered out there.
>>
>> I am considering either the Gretz Aero GA-1000 or the Falcon
>> (12-AN5812) Pitot tubes or equivalent and would appreciate any
>> feedback please.
>>
>> Has anyone installed and flown their aircraft with an angle of attack
>> probe, if so which one and your thoughts regarding the device please.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Patrick Pulis
>>
>> Adelaide, South Australia
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *www.aeroelectric.com*
>> *www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com>*
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>> * *
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe |
I've got a copy of the instructions on my site:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Gretz%20Instructioins/index.html
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rob Wright wrote:
>
>It's in the instructions, not sure if they're available on Gretz's site.
>
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe (thanks!) |
Thanks Larry & Rob!
Brian
#40308
http://www.mykitlog.com/rv10builder
do not archive
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> From the Gretz Instructions (thanks to those that sent them to me):
> To plumb the tubing to the airspeed indicator to the pitot tube, the
> builder can use either the plastic type of instrument tube or aluminum
> tube. If the aluminum tube is used, not the "additional parts needed"
> list at the top of this sheet. The builder will need to flair both
> the tube from the pitot and the tube coming from the panel. Connect
> these together by using the parts listed.
>
> Additional parts needed from another source (for attaching pitot tube
> to aluminum line
> 1 each AN 815-4D union for flared tubes
> 2 each AN 818-4D nut
> 2 each AN 819-4D sleeve
>
> As you would expect builders are using both aluminum tube (as per the
> plans) and plastic tubing.
>
> Larry
> #356
>
>
> Rob Wright wrote:
>>
>> It's in the instructions, not sure if they're available on Gretz's site.
>> You can use either aluminum or "plastic" tubing, a la SafeAir.
>> Instructions
>> say that if you use the plastic-type tubing to use a short run of metal
>> tubing before changing to the plastic. I used the 6" metal run built
>> into
>> the Gretz pitot before I connected the plastic tubing.
>>
>> Rob Wright
>> #392
>> Fuse - soundproofing
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 3:06 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack
>> Probe
>>
>>
>> Along that same theme....what type of tubing should we (or can we)
>> use with the Gretz?
>>
>> Rob Wright wrote:
>>
>>> It'll be hard to beat the Gretz for price and performance. It's an
>>> experimental only pitot, but it's a "smart" pitot tube. Other pitots
>>> throw raw amperage to the tube, which after a while wastes the
>>> energy on heat and can overheat if forgotten in dry, VMC air. For a
>>> very comparable price, the Gretz warms the pitot to about 100
>>> degrees F, and then through a circuit board reduces the energy to
>>> maintain the temp at about 100. There is an LED board to let you
>>> know status of the tube at any time, and the instructions are about
>>> middle of the road for simplicity. Of course, I like things spelled
>>> out very simply though.
>>>
>>> Read more about it on Gretz's and Tim O's sites.
>>>
>>> Rob Wright
>>>
>>> #392
>>>
>>> Fuse
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
>>> Pulis
>>> *Sent:* Monday, November 20, 2006 7:03 PM
>>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack
>>> Probe
>>>
>>> For those of you who have installed (or are considering the
>>> installation of) a 12 volt heated Pitot tube in your aircraft, could
>>> you please provide me with an indication of what is being
>>> installed/considered out there.
>>>
>>> I am considering either the Gretz Aero GA-1000 or the Falcon
>>> (12-AN5812) Pitot tubes or equivalent and would appreciate any
>>> feedback please.
>>>
>>> Has anyone installed and flown their aircraft with an angle of
>>> attack probe, if so which one and your thoughts regarding the device
>>> please.
>>>
>>> Regards
>>>
>>> Patrick Pulis
>>>
>>> Adelaide, South Australia
>>>
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>> **
>>> **
>>> **
>>> *www.aeroelectric.com*
>>> *www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com>*
>>> **
>>> **
>>> **
>>> **
>>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>> * *
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> .
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Not at all. 1200 hours PIC, instrument rating. 800 hours complex time
(Bonanza and Piper Lance). Have insured with Falcon for 20+ years. $3,000
for $150,000 hull coverage and liability.
Mark
>From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: insurance
>Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 16:38:35 -0800
>
>
>All replying about insurance costs -
>
>Would it be indiscreet to include your total hours and ratings along
>with your premium? I think it would help gauge things a bit...
>
>cj
>#40410
>fuse
>www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
All-in-one security and maintenance for your PC. Get a free 90-day trial!
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Trim cables question |
Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
> ..... Just try some things...maybe start withcheap poly tubing, and see what
fits over the threaded end well.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
> >
> >
> > Tim,
> > That noise you hear is me slapping my forehead (g). Just something to fish
with, but I took it for something special. As my wife says:
> >
> > "You're not too bright, I like that in a man."
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
#40572 Empennage - Elevators almost done.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76232#76232
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|