Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:36 AM - Re: cabin locks (Larry Rosen)
     2. 07:34 AM - Wing leading edge questions (Eric_Kallio)
     3. 08:08 AM - Re: Wing leading edge questions (Deems Davis)
     4. 09:02 AM - Re: cabin locks (Jesse Saint)
     5. 10:02 AM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe (Jesse Saint)
     6. 10:15 AM - RV-10 cabin door locks (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
     7. 11:32 AM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe (Tim Olson)
     8. 11:32 AM - Re: RV-10 cabin door locks (Tim Olson)
     9. 03:58 PM - Re: Slime HS (Mark Ritter)
    10. 08:58 PM - FW: torn rib (Sean Blair)
    11. 10:03 PM - Re: Slime HS (KiloPapa)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Dave,
      Look at Tim Lewis' guide on using two key locks like those used on the 
      baggage door.
      <http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6/doorlock/door_lock.html>
      
      Larry Rosen
      
      David McNeill wrote:
      > Anyone putting keyed locks on the main doors? any pictures of the 
      > inside mechanism?
      > *
      >
      >
      > *
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Wing leading edge questions | 
      
      
      I am getting ready to start the leading edges of my wings and plunk down some more
      money for accessories. I intend on purchasing the Gretz 1000 heated pitot,
      the Duckworks HID landing lights, and the AFS AOA. After reviewing the archives
      several of you had said that you were putting the light and the AOA on the
      last bay. Any feedback on how that worked out as far as space and ease of maintenace
      for the future? I was also looking at simply closing the stall horn holes
      and not installing it, as others have done. Does any body flying think that
      is something I should still install? Finally any other tips or gotchas out there.
      I have been all over Tim's and Deems's sites...pretty much live on those,
      and Mike Howe's also. Thanks for your feedback.
      
      Eric Kallio
      #40518 SB wings
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76864#76864
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Wing leading edge questions | 
      
      
      Eric, FWIW If I were doing it over I would move the Gretz mount 1 
      bay/rib closer to an access panel/hole than where I mounted it.
      
      Deems Davis # 406
      Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
      http://deemsrv10.com/
      
      Eric_Kallio wrote:
      
      >
      >I am getting ready to start the leading edges of my wings and plunk down some
      more money for accessories. I intend on purchasing the Gretz 1000 heated pitot,
      the Duckworks HID landing lights, and the AFS AOA. After reviewing the archives
      several of you had said that you were putting the light and the AOA on the
      last bay. Any feedback on how that worked out as far as space and ease of maintenace
      for the future? I was also looking at simply closing the stall horn holes
      and not installing it, as others have done. Does any body flying think that
      is something I should still install? Finally any other tips or gotchas out there.
      I have been all over Tim's and Deems's sites...pretty much live on those,
      and Mike Howe's also. Thanks for your feedback.
      >
      >Eric Kallio
      >#40518 SB wings
      >
      >
      >Read this topic online here:
      >
      >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76864#76864
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
      
      We have put the extra lock that comes with the ignition/baggage set in 
      the
      pilot=92s door.  The mechanism, when it =93locks=94 swings the lever in 
      the way of
      the geared arm that connects to the pin that locks the door.  It is not 
      very
      strong, but if someone wants to get it that bad, it is better that they
      break the lock than the door or something like that.  For the right 
      side, to
      prevent needing to go around and unlock, we drill a hole in the same rod
      just forward of the handle mechanism on the arm that pulls the from pin 
      and
      stick a quick-release pin in the hole so the mechanism cannot move.  
      That
      seems to work quite well.
      
      
      Do not archive.
      
      
      Jesse Saint
      
      I-TEC, Inc.
      
      HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
      
      HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
      
      W: 352-465-4545
      
      C: 352-427-0285
      
         _____  
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
      Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 10:39 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: cabin locks
      
      
      Anyone putting keyed locks on the main doors? any pictures of the inside
      mechanism?
      
      
      "http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
      "http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
      "http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
      "http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
      "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
      ion
      "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
      vig
      ator?RV10-List
      
      11/24/2006
      5:20 PM 
      
      -- 
      11/24/2006
      5:20 PM
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe | 
      
      I use the Gretz mount for the Falcon pitot.  Works great.  I would also like
      to hear how the Gretz pitot is working out for people.
      
      
      Do not archive.
      
      
      Jesse Saint
      
      I-TEC, Inc.
      
      HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
      
      HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
      
      W: 352-465-4545
      
      C: 352-427-0285
      
         _____  
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
      Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 10:53 PM
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
      
      
      Patrick,
      
      
      I started with the Falcon because of a long track record of reliability, but
      they did not have a mount that would work with the RV-10. I returned it and
      bought the Gretz. Falcon now has a new mount for the 10 and you may want to
      consider it. The Gretz has a really cool temp control function that will
      save power but I have not heard of any reliability data on it. Would love to
      hear from those flying is the Gretz is working OK in IMC.
      
      
      John Testement
      HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
      40321
      
      Richmond, VA
      Finish kit - wheel fairings, cowl prep
      
      
      do not archive
      
         _____  
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
      Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 8:03 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
      
      For those of you who have installed (or are considering the installation of)
      a  12 volt heated Pitot tube in your aircraft, could you please provide me
      with an indication of what is being installed/considered out there.
      
      
      I am considering either the Gretz Aero GA-1000 or the Falcon (12-AN5812)
      Pitot tubes or equivalent and would appreciate any feedback please.
      
      
      Has anyone installed and flown their aircraft with an angle of attack probe,
      if so which one and your thoughts regarding the device please.
      
      
      Regards
      
      
      Patrick Pulis
      
      Adelaide, South Australia
      
      
      href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
      href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
      href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
      href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
      href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
      "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
      gator?RV10-List
      
      
      -- No virus found in this Edition. 
      
      --
      11/23/2006
      
      
      "http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
      "http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
      "http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
      "http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
      "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
      ator?RV10-List
      
      5:20 PM 
      
      -- 
      5:20 PM
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | RV-10 cabin door locks | 
      
      I used the same type of locks on my doors as Tim Olsen did, except I did not 
      put the lock into the door latch mechanism like Tim did.
      
      I simply mounted the lock separately in the bottom of the door with the 
      lock's arm swinging down into a cut out in the door frame rail, very similar to
      the 
      baggage door lock assy.
      
      Seems to work great so far.
      
      grumpy #40404
      33 hrs towards the 40 hr flyoff!!
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe | 
      
      
      I don't know what criteria would be ultra valuable regarding the
      pitot tube, but the indicated airspeed is good and close, there's
      no worry about rust with the Gretz, and I've been in soggy IMC
      at 0 degrees C, and not had it ice up.   The thing is, until
      someone actually has a problem with it, I wouldn't expect anything
      but ordinary "it works fine" reports.  Before completion I had
      worried that perhaps some day I may regret my choice.  At 177
      hours, I don't have any regrets, for what it's worth.
      
      Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
      do not archive
      
      
      Jesse Saint wrote:
      > I use the Gretz mount for the Falcon pitot.  Works great.  I would also 
      > like to hear how the Gretz pitot is working out for people.
      > 
      >  
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: RV-10 cabin door locks | 
      
      
      I did not mount locks.
      
      Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
      do not archive
      
      
      GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
      > I used the same type of locks on my doors as Tim Olsen did, except I did 
      > not put the lock into the door latch mechanism like Tim did.
      >  
      > I simply mounted the lock separately in the bottom of the door with the 
      > lock's arm swinging down into a cut out in the door frame rail, very 
      > similar to the baggage door lock assy.
      >  
      > Seems to work great so far.
      >  
      > grumpy #40404
      > 33 hrs towards the 40 hr flyoff!!
      >  
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Kevin,
      
      The number on the Hysol glue I used to put in the front windscreen (first 
      time around) was 6339.  Recently I replaced the front window and used the 
      Weld 10 glue.  Both seem fairly easy to work with but the front window 
      removal was not a real pain with the Hysol glue - hope I don'y have to find 
      out on the Weld 10.
      
      Mark (N410MR in paint shop)
      
      
      >From: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
      >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
      >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
      >Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 10:31:27 -0800
      >
      >
      >Mark,
      >
      >Which Hysol adhesive did you use?
      >
      >Thanks,
      >
      >Kevin
      >40494
      >tail/empennage
      >
      >do not archive
      >
      >----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
      >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
      >Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:08 PM
      >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Slime HS
      >
      >
      >>
      >>Les - We removed the window by cutting (die grinder) around the perimeter 
      >>of the window.  Then using a screw driver pried up the plexiglas that was 
      >>glued (I used Hysol Glue not Weld 10) to the flanges (sides and top). Took 
      >>several hours but it eventually came off.  A router would also work. 
      >>Sanded the flanges to get remaining glue off.  The fiberglass on the 
      >>fuselage popped off very easily.
      >>
      >>Don't know how difficult the job would have been if I had used Weld 10.
      >>
      >>If you use Spray Lat to protect the windows in addition to putting it on 
      >>thick don't leave it on for more than a year.
      >>
      >>Mark (N410MR - Almost flying again)
      >
      >
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Stay up-to-date with your friends through the Windows Live Spaces friends 
      list. 
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      While installing one of the side-steps, I got a little too aggressive and
      managed to produce a small tear from the upper relief downward about 5/8 of
      an inch on the baggage rib.  I drilled a stop, but wonder if I need to do
      something more.
      
      Any advice on this one?  Picture is attached.
      
      Thanks once again.
      
      Sean Blair
      #40225
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Mark,
      
      Thanks for the reply.  Why did you decide to change the adhesive you used on 
      the front windscreen?
      Did the Hysol seem to bond well?  Now that you have used both which do you 
      prefer, ie, application,
      cleanup, etc?
      
      Thanks,
      
      Kevin
      40494
      tail/empennage
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
      Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 3:57 PM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
      
      
      >
      > Kevin,
      >
      > The number on the Hysol glue I used to put in the front windscreen (first 
      > time around) was 6339.  Recently I replaced the front window and used the 
      > Weld 10 glue.  Both seem fairly easy to work with but the front window 
      > removal was not a real pain with the Hysol glue - hope I don'y have to 
      > find out on the Weld 10.
      >
      > Mark (N410MR in paint shop)
      >
      >
      >>From: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
      >>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
      >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
      >>Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 10:31:27 -0800
      >>
      >>
      >>Mark,
      >>
      >>Which Hysol adhesive did you use?
      >>
      >>Thanks,
      >>
      >>Kevin
      >>40494
      >>tail/empennage 
      
      
 
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