Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:37 AM - Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year... (Matt Dralle)
1. 04:46 AM - Re: Re: transponder antenna placement (Michael D Chase)
2. 06:32 AM - Re: Re: transponder antenna placement (Rick)
3. 06:43 AM - Re: Weight of the IO-540? (Rick)
4. 06:43 AM - Re: wheel bearings (Rick)
5. 07:38 AM - Re: Weight of the IO-540? (Mark Ritter)
6. 07:49 AM - Re: Slime HS (Mark Ritter)
7. 08:09 AM - Re: Weight of the IO-540? (John Gonzalez)
8. 08:15 AM - Re: rocket pic (John Gonzalez)
9. 08:23 AM - Re: Stupid questions (Vern W. Smith)
10. 08:28 AM - Re: Weight of the IO-540? (Rick)
11. 08:36 AM - Stupid question revisted. (John Gonzalez)
12. 08:47 AM - Re: Stupid questions (John Gonzalez)
13. 09:17 AM - Re: Stupid question revisted. (Ralph E. Capen)
14. 09:40 AM - Re: Weight of the IO-540? (Mark Ritter)
15. 10:20 AM - Re: rocket pic (JOHN STARN)
16. 11:25 AM - Re: rocket pic (John Gonzalez)
17. 04:05 PM - A question for the finishing mavens (Les Kearney)
18. 04:17 PM - Re: Rudder question- ditto (Deems Davis)
19. 04:21 PM - A question about the QB fuselage (Les Kearney)
20. 04:28 PM - Re: A question for the finishing mavens ()
21. 04:30 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage ()
22. 04:42 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (John Jessen)
23. 05:25 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (John Hasbrouck)
24. 05:28 PM - Re: A question for the finishing mavens (jdalton77)
25. 05:35 PM - Re: A question for the finishing mavens (Tim Olson)
26. 05:39 PM - Re: Rudder question- ditto (Tim Olson)
27. 05:49 PM - Re: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using Nut plates (Bill Schlatterer)
28. 06:02 PM - Re: Stupid question revisted. (bob.kaufmann)
29. 06:05 PM - Re: Rudder question- ditto (John Hasbrouck)
30. 06:25 PM - Re: Rudder question- ditto (Tim Olson)
31. 06:31 PM - Re: A question for the finishing mavens (JOHN STARN)
32. 06:47 PM - Re: A question for the finishing mavens (Les Kearney)
33. 06:48 PM - Re: A question for the finishing mavens (Les Kearney)
34. 06:53 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (Les Kearney)
35. 06:55 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (Les Kearney)
36. 06:58 PM - torn rib (Sean Blair)
37. 07:00 PM - B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (bcondrey)
38. 07:18 PM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
39. 07:30 PM - Re: Rudder question- ditto (John Hasbrouck)
40. 07:51 PM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (linn Walters)
41. 08:04 PM - Re: A question for the finishing mavens (Jae Chang)
42. 08:14 PM - Fighter pilot? (Sean Blair)
Message 0
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| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! Response
has been very good, but we are behind last year in the number of people that have
made a Contribution and as a percentage of the total number of subscribers.
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser.
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: transponder antenna placement |
Guys,
Sort of a late post, but I am a former TomCat guy and you would be shoc
ked
to hear the number of guys from my community that ended up with testicu
lar
cancer. The Navy wasn't really doing any tests or gathering statistics
that the number of guys who ended with issues really seemed to stand ou
t at
least in my age group. I don't have any proof but sitting with the wor
ld's
most powerful air intercept radar between your legs seems to have some
impact.
On a more building related note can anyone help me out with lighting.
I am
working on my empennage kit and have been told by others not to order m
y
light kit due to bulb aging but it seems I should be running conduit no
w?
Can anyone tell me were to run it and what they used?
Thanks
Michael Chase
General Dynamics Armament and Technical Products
802-657-6029 Office
802-922-5930 Cell
mchase@gdatp.com
This e-mail message (including attachments, if any) is for the sole use
of
the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is private,
confidential, or exempt from disclosure. Any unauthorized review, use,
copying, printing, disclosure, retention, or distribution is strictly
prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the
sender by reply to this e-mail, and delete all copies without disclosin
g
this message to others. Thank you.
|---------+------------------------------------>
| | "John Gonzalez" |
| | <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv10-list-server@ma|
| | tronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 11/27/2006 04:21 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv10-list |
| | |
|---------+------------------------------------>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------|
|
|
| To: rv10-list@matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: transponder antenna placement
|
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------|
m>
Under the seat however, the moicrowaves would be going through several
layers of metal to find your privates, unless your a low hanger.
DO not archive
>From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: transponder antenna placement
>Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 14:59:20 -0600
>
><rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
>Sounds like a good episode of Mythbusters. Adam can put his nads in a
>microwave and Jamie can sit on a transponder antenna while being
>regularly interrogated or pushing ident. ROFLMAO!
>
>Seriously though, I don't think anyone has ever done a serious study o
n
>this. In reality any potential health issues are probably pretty smal
l.
>You probably get more rads from the solar radiation at 15,000 feet tha
n
>from the transponder. I still wouldn't put it right under my seat
>though. The biggest issue in placement is keeping the antenna lead as
>short as possible.
>
>Michael Sausen
>-10 #352 fuselage
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey
>Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 1:30 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: transponder antenna placement
>
m>
>
>Chris,
>
>Below is from an exchange on this subject on the AeroElectric list -
>short version is that there isn't an issue.
>
>Bob
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>-----
>
>Message: #10129 Date: Mar 10, 2003 From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>Subject: Re: defending the "familiy jewels" . . .
>
>
> >
> >A transponder antenna that close to your passengers "private parts"
> >might not be the best thing to do. The radiation may do some damage.
> >
> >Rino
>
> A hangar myth. Folks have looked at the
> peak output power rating of a transponder (100 to 250W)
> and tried to make a connection between a desire to
> make one's airplane visible to a distant radar receiver
> and cooking meat.
>
> When you buy a microwave, it too is rated in the
> hundreds of watts . . . but CONTINUOUS duty. A
> good 700W microwave will boil a cup of water in
> about 2 minutes. (Remember the traveler's immersion
> heaters in the hardware store? They're 300W heaters
> and take about 4 minutes to boil a cup of water).
> If you measure the current draw of this machine,
> it will be on the order of 8-9 amps or 1000W total
> input.
>
> Your transponder draws about 1.5 amps while being
> interrogated for a total input power of 18W. The
> output comes in the form of a series of 0.5 uSec
> pulses in respond to an interrogation that represent
> a string of binary numbers representing either your
> squawk code (mode A) or altitude (mode C). Assuming
> you are interrogated once per second (quite often)
> your average output power for a 250W transponder
> is on the order of 250W x 20 pulses x 0.0000005
> seconds/1 second or 2.5 milliwatts per second.
> This isn't going even going to warm up much less cook
> anything.
>
> Another fallacy of the myth concerns body parts
> most sensitive to microwave radiation . . . turns
> out that your eyes are the most vulnerable . . .
> but the story isn't nearly so interesting to
> really macho pilots. None the less, there are
> folks who have armor-shielded their seat bottoms
> in deference to this myth. The story was REALLY
> popular about 15 years ago in the heyday of
> the Long-Ezs
>
> Here's a post I did on a canard pusher list
> server about 5 years ago:
>
> > Location away from the pilot/co-pilot is also >recommended but ov
er
>ten feet requires a different cable. Yes?? I was >thinking about
>locating it aft of the pilot in the baggage area. Is that >distance
>safe?
>
> A totally bogus recommendation. A few years back, someone observed
> that their transponder was rated for 200 watts output . . . 1/3rd
> that of the family microwave. Our hero was immediately concerned f
or
> preservation of the family jewels and proceeded to line the bottom
> of his composite seat pan with aluminum foil. What he failed to
> understand was that his RF coffee warmer and popcorn popper was
> rated in continuous watts while the transponder was in peak watts.
> The average power output from a transponder is less than 1 watt .
. .
> BTW, the eyes are about 100 times more sensitive to the effects of
> microwave heating than are any deep organs . . . you'll go blind
> you quit making babies.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=77381#77381
>
>
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: transponder antenna placement |
Michael,
I used snap bushings to route from the tail forward then conduit from the battery
area forward. You could use smaller diameter diameter conduit than the 3/4"
available from Van's but it would be OK as long as the holes weren't opened too
much through the bulkheads, actually you could just zip tie the conduit to
the bulkheads. The only wires from back there are the tail light, strobe, elevator
trim and VOR antenna if you are using one in the tail. The tail light & strobe
wires combo exits the last bulkhead through a 3/16's hole and enters the
bottom fairing using a molex connector on the strobe and a simple spade connector
on the bulb.
Rick S.
40185
Message 3
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| Subject: | Weight of the IO-540? |
I saved a few pounds,
Barretts XIO-540 "Lightweight"-397 pounds
MT 3 blade-47 pounds
Don't hold me to those...It's off the top of my head
Buuuuuuuut....I think it's more than $100 a pound
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 4
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But wouldn't the hairs from your palms get into the grease? he hehehe....
Rick S.
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Weight of the IO-540? |
Rick - How far aft will the empty CG move with the light front end?
>From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight of the IO-540?
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 06:40:30 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
>
>
>I saved a few pounds,
>
>Barretts XIO-540 "Lightweight"-397 pounds
>MT 3 blade-47 pounds
>
>Don't hold me to those...It's off the top of my head
>
>Buuuuuuuut....I think it's more than $100 a pound
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>do not archive
>
>
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Message 6
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Kevin,
I went with the Weld 10 on the front windscreen the second time around
because I was out of the Hysol glue and had the Weld 10 on hand. The Hysol
did seem to bond well as the windscreen was stuck pretty good when I removed
it. That said, the Weld 10 was also easy to apply and should work just as
well as the Hysol. No difference in clean up - mast well no matter which
glue you go with.
Mark (N410MR in paint shop)
>From: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
>Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 22:03:03 -0800
>
>
>Mark,
>
>Thanks for the reply. Why did you decide to change the adhesive you used
>on the front windscreen?
>Did the Hysol seem to bond well? Now that you have used both which do you
>prefer, ie, application,
>cleanup, etc?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kevin
>40494
>tail/empennage
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509@msn.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 3:57 PM
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
>
>
>>
>>Kevin,
>>
>>The number on the Hysol glue I used to put in the front windscreen (first
>>time around) was 6339. Recently I replaced the front window and used the
>>Weld 10 glue. Both seem fairly easy to work with but the front window
>>removal was not a real pain with the Hysol glue - hope I don'y have to
>>find out on the Weld 10.
>>
>>Mark (N410MR in paint shop)
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS
>>>Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 10:31:27 -0800
>>>
>>>
>>>Mark,
>>>
>>>Which Hysol adhesive did you use?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Kevin
>>>40494
>>>tail/empennage
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Weight of the IO-540? |
I think it is more like $110.00 per pound.
Good point.
Do Not Archive
>From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight of the IO-540?
>Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 22:45:27 -0500
>
>
>Or you can think of it as $100 per lb..... For both the engine and
>propeller! Pretty scary...
>
>Do not archive...
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>jim@CombsFive.Com
>Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 9:55 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weight of the IO-540?
>
>
>
>IO-540 (C4B5) is somewhere around 420 lbs
>
>2 bladed Hartzel is approx 80 lbs
>
>Someone else may have more exact numbers.
>
>Jim C
>N312F
>40192
>
>Do Not Archive
>===========================================================
>From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>Date: 2006/11/26 Sun AM 09:19:26 EST
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Weight of the IO-540?
>
>--> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Can anyone give me a rough estimate of what their IO-540 and the
>aluminum
>propeller weight is?
>
>Just trying to do some planning estimates.
>
>Thanks
>
>JOhn G. 409, Thinking about electrons
>
>
>===========================================================
>
>
Message 8
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Is that at Rosemond, Ca. If so, never landed there but fly over every
weekend in the glider during the summer months flying out of Crystal. Think
that mountain looks familiar...on the other side, Backus? Am I right or
wrong??
John G. Do Not archive
>From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>To: "rv10-list" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: rocket pic
>Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 22:42:31 -0800
>
>Here's an old, Oct. '04, photo of HRII N561FS. Will take rivet/nutplate
>photo's this week end.
>
>There is a photo attached. KABONG Do Not Archive
>
>Got any pictures of this amazing plane, and especially of the nutplates?
>
>John Jessen
> #40328
>
>do not archive
><< MyPictures0004.jpg >>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Stupid questions |
Hi John,
The link below is a pdf file outlining the anti collision lighting
requirements and distribution pattern.
http://www.creativair.com/source/_inst/requirements.pdf
Vern (40324 fuselage)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 4:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Stupid questions
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Okay, I've been away from power planes too long.
What is a marker beacon antenna for? Don't say a marker beacon. Is it
for
IFR equipment.
Do strobes have to be located on the wing tips.? I thought that when I
used
to fly power they were also found on the belly. Am I imagining this.
If on the belly is okay, why not just put in one light rather than two
on
the wing tips.
Thanks,,
John Gonzalez, Do Not Archive my ignorance in this matter. Finished
Drilling
teeth for the day.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Weight of the IO-540? |
Not too concerned but the W & B will tell....I think I will be able to get rid
of the bag of lead in the back seat when flying with just two like during my demo
ride in the factory RV-10.
My initial thought is the lighter front will create a more balanced CG. There are
others with the same combo so I'm not to worried. Besides....weight is a whole
bunch easier to add than remove.
Rick S.
40185
Message 11
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| Subject: | Stupid question revisted. |
Okay, here is the trick. Label everything as a stupid question and get lots
of answers and all are done so with overwhelming kindness.
Lets try again.
1)Why are people placing two comm antennas.
2)And when two antennas are placed, doesn't the nontransmitting one
interfere with the transmitting one. Something like putting two tuning
forks side by side and hiting one and the other starts humming too.
Kindness only
John G.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Stupid questions |
Thanks, that's a great link.
John G.
>From: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stupid questions
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 08:21:54 -0800
>
>
>Hi John,
>
>The link below is a pdf file outlining the anti collision lighting
>requirements and distribution pattern.
>http://www.creativair.com/source/_inst/requirements.pdf
>
>Vern (40324 fuselage)
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 4:55 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Stupid questions
>
><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Okay, I've been away from power planes too long.
>
>What is a marker beacon antenna for? Don't say a marker beacon. Is it
>for
>IFR equipment.
>
>Do strobes have to be located on the wing tips.? I thought that when I
>used
>to fly power they were also found on the belly. Am I imagining this.
>
>If on the belly is okay, why not just put in one light rather than two
>on
>the wing tips.
>
>Thanks,,
>
>John Gonzalez, Do Not Archive my ignorance in this matter. Finished
>Drilling
>teeth for the day.
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Stupid question revisted. |
John,
For my installation and the research that I have done (check the matronics aeroelectric
list archives), I'm using two antennas with two radios - placed x-number
of inches apart (I don't remember the magic number) because of the issue that
you have mentioned. I'm actually placing one under the belly behind the main
spar and the second one is foil tape in the windshield - thinking ground vs
air communications.
There are switches that allow for one antenna and two radios - to isolate the nontransmitting
one's receiver circuits - but if you have an antenna failure -
the second radio is useless.
It depends on what you want...I have one of the switches that I mentioned in my
avionics box - I think I got it from Bob Archer. I may use it eventually - for
specific missions.
Not saying right or wrong, just how I'm doing it and the basis for my decision
Hope this helps,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>Sent: Nov 29, 2006 11:35 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Stupid question revisted.
>
>
>Okay, here is the trick. Label everything as a stupid question and get lots
>of answers and all are done so with overwhelming kindness.
>
>Lets try again.
>
>1)Why are people placing two comm antennas.
>
>2)And when two antennas are placed, doesn't the nontransmitting one
>interfere with the transmitting one. Something like putting two tuning
>forks side by side and hiting one and the other starts humming too.
>
>Kindness only
>
>John G.
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Weight of the IO-540? |
Rick,
I have a three blade MT prop (love it) but no light weight engine (Aero
Sport). My CG only moved aft a small amount - not enough to take the shot
bag out of the baggage compartment. My experience has been with one or two
folks on board I make better landings (still waiting for that perfect 10)
with the shot bag in the back and two notches of flaps.
Mark (N410MR - in paint shop)
>From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight of the IO-540?
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 11:26:40 -0500 (EST)
>
>
>Not too concerned but the W & B will tell....I think I will be able to get
>rid of the bag of lead in the back seat when flying with just two like
>during my demo ride in the factory RV-10.
>
>My initial thought is the lighter front will create a more balanced CG.
>There are others with the same combo so I'm not to worried.
>Besides....weight is a whole bunch easier to add than remove.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>
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Message 15
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Close...but no cigar....Apple Valley Airport, just a hoot & a holler east of
Rosamond, CA. APV in the book. With clear weather, two runways (18/36 is
wide enough for formation takeoffs & landings) and great people. APV is
ideal for Acro (box is just N/W within gliding distance), formation clinics
or just boring holes in the sky. KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rocket pic
> Is that at Rosemond, Ca. If so, never landed there but fly over every
> weekend in the glider during the summer months flying out of Crystal.
> Think that mountain looks familiar...on the other side, Backus? Am I
> right or wrong??
>
> John G. Do Not archive
>
>>From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>>
>>Here's an old, Oct. '04, photo of HRII N561FS. Will take rivet/nutplate
>>photo's this week end.
>>
>>There is a photo attached. KABONG Do Not Archive
>>
>>Got any pictures of this amazing plane, and especially of the nutplates?
>>
>>John Jessen
>> #40328
>>
>>do not archive
Message 16
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Should have known it. Landed there once, after working those the hills,
right over the LA. Co. Fire helicopter pad. It is amazing because I
couldn't get away from APV that day as what is called the shear line had
blown through and the cool air had come up the Cajon pass and shut down all
the lift. 45 minutes over those hills at less than 600-1000"AGL. At least
it wasn't too hot down low on that day.
John G.
Do Not archive
>From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: rocket pic
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 10:19:20 -0800
>
>
>Close...but no cigar....Apple Valley Airport, just a hoot & a holler east
>of Rosamond, CA. APV in the book. With clear weather, two runways (18/36 is
>wide enough for formation takeoffs & landings) and great people. APV is
>ideal for Acro (box is just N/W within gliding distance), formation clinics
>or just boring holes in the sky. KABONG Do Not Archive
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 8:14 AM
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: rocket pic
>>Is that at Rosemond, Ca. If so, never landed there but fly over every
>>weekend in the glider during the summer months flying out of Crystal.
>>Think that mountain looks familiar...on the other side, Backus? Am I
>>right or wrong??
>>
>>John G. Do Not archive
>>
>>>From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>>>
>>>Here's an old, Oct. '04, photo of HRII N561FS. Will take rivet/nutplate
>>>photo's this week end.
>>>
>>>There is a photo attached. KABONG Do Not Archive
>>>
>>>Got any pictures of this amazing plane, and especially of the nutplates?
>>>
>>>John Jessen
>>> #40328
>>>
>>>do not archive
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | A question for the finishing mavens |
Hi
I am have just finished my vertical stab and rudder. Along the way I
have
had a few "oops moments" usually fixable. There have been a couple that
have
left their mark sort of speak. These include:
* An extra dimple where there should be none
* A couple of very small dents associated with riveting
* A very, very, very small "RV10 Vertical Stab Signature dent"
My question for the finishing experts is "to what extent will painting
hide,
cover up, make invisible minor imperfections arising from the
construction
process"?
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - On to the Horizontal Stab tomorrow!
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder question- ditto |
I haven't seen a response to John's question, I too would like to know
how other builders have set them up. when I installed my cable guides
they were very tight, how tight did you 'fly guys leave them?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> Question regarding rudder bearing blocks and the "nylon" rudder cable
> guides. How snug should both of these be? I can tighten the center
> rudder bearing block to the pont where the rudder pedals will not
> move, obviously too tight. Same with the rudder cable guides. How
> much play do we need in these? Are the aerodynamic forces on the
> rudder enough to overcome the situation? Will there be enough wear in
> to loosen the pedals and the cable? Inquiring minds want to know
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>*
>*
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | A question about the QB fuselage |
Hi
With my eye fixed on the Jan price increase for QB fuselage as well as the
lead time for same, I am pondering whether or not I should go QB for the
fuselage. Thus far I have been enjoying the build process and want to get
the "full experience". That being said, I am quietly wondering if there is
still enough left to do to make the QB option viable. Can anyone tell give
me an overview of what is left to do in the QB fuselage kit? I have seen a
QB fuselage at Van's and am wondering if I should just go with a slow build
instead.
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - On to the horizontal stab tomorrow!
Do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | A question for the finishing mavens |
A year ago, I was in the exact same position as you. I looked at the
mistakes, and figured I could fix them, and yes, you probably can. however,
after a few days of looking at the dents and extra dimple, I decided to
re-do the vertical skins. i called it a learning experience, and glad I did
it. The new skins are not that expensive, and you will always know they are
there, even if no one else can see them. And it is good practice before you
start the horizontal. Trust me, you will not be the only one with a dented
vertical skin in the corner of your shop.
Steve Mills
RV-10 40486 Slow-build
Naperville, Illinois
finishing fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:05 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: A question for the finishing mavens
Hi
I am have just finished my vertical stab and rudder. Along the way I have
had a few "oops moments" usually fixable. There have been a couple that have
left their mark sort of speak. These include:
a.. An extra dimple where there should be none
b.. A couple of very small dents associated with riveting
c.. A very, very, very small "RV10 Vertical Stab Signature dent"
My question for the finishing experts is "to what extent will painting
hide, cover up, make invisible minor imperfections arising from the
construction process"?
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - On to the Horizontal Stab tomorrow!
Message 21
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| Subject: | A question about the QB fuselage |
Les:
I am slow build all the way. If I had it to do over again, I would quick
build the wings, and slow build the fuselage. The fuel tanks are a real
mess, and you have to do everything twice. The fuselage is lots more fun.
Steve Mills
RV-10 40486 Slow-build
Naperville, Illinois
finishing fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:20 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
Hi
With my eye fixed on the Jan price increase for QB fuselage as well as the
lead time for same, I am pondering whether or not I should go QB for the
fuselage. Thus far I have been enjoying the build process and want to get
the "full experience". That being said, I am quietly wondering if there is
still enough left to do to make the QB option viable. Can anyone tell give
me an overview of what is left to do in the QB fuselage kit? I have seen a
QB fuselage at Van's and am wondering if I should just go with a slow build
instead.
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - On to the horizontal stab tomorrow!
Do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | A question about the QB fuselage |
Les,
If you like to build, and you seem to be moving along at a good clip,
you'd
probably get to the QB stage on the fuselage by the time they sent you a
QB.
At least that's what some have said on the list. I cannot speak to that
since I'm not there yet. However, you can think of it this way. By the
time you finish the entire empennage, you've demonstrated that you can
build
a flying surface (HS) as well as a big hollow thing (Tailcone). Might
as
well, for me, move forward to other fun things as quickly as possible,
such
as a panel and engine.
Each to his/her own.
John
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
Hi
With my eye fixed on the Jan price increase for QB fuselage as well as
the
lead time for same, I am pondering whether or not I should go QB for the
fuselage. Thus far I have been enjoying the build process and want to
get
the =93full experience=94. That being said, I am quietly wondering if
there is
still enough left to do to make the QB option viable. Can anyone tell
give
me an overview of what is left to do in the QB fuselage kit? I have seen
a
QB fuselage at Van=92s and am wondering if I should just go with a slow
build
instead.
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 ' On to the horizontal stab tomorrow!
Do not archive
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ator?RV10-List
11/28/2006
3:22 PM
--
11/28/2006
3:22 PM
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: A question about the QB fuselage |
Les,
I went with the slo-build fuse and received it the end of May this
year. By September I'd caught up to where the quick build is when you
receive it. I had the advantage of not having to go back over
everything to check correctness and didn't have to remove floor panels
or other such stuff. I hate having to drill out rivets. Besides the
significant cost savings ( did I mention I'm cheap? ) I enjoyed the
building process much more than when I did the wings. I work full time
and am not a sheet metal genius so if I can get to this point in the
time I did, I think anybody else would be able to also. I'm now
installing rudders and controls, fuel lines ect.. So my vote is for
slo-build all the way...
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: A question for the finishing mavens |
Les,
Painting your mistakes makes them look beautiful . . . and obvious! I
was in the same position and spent the time to fill any dents and smooth
out smiley's using some filler. When I primed it looked prrrrrrrrrfect.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: A question for the finishing mavens
Hi
I am have just finished my vertical stab and rudder. Along the way I
have had a few "oops moments" usually fixable. There have been a couple
that have left their mark sort of speak. These include:
a.. An extra dimple where there should be none
b.. A couple of very small dents associated with riveting
c.. A very, very, very small "RV10 Vertical Stab Signature dent"
My question for the finishing experts is "to what extent will painting
hide, cover up, make invisible minor imperfections arising from the
construction process"?
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - On to the Horizontal Stab tomorrow!
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: A question for the finishing mavens |
Paint won't cover it, but you'll be doing some filler on all of the
dings anyway, and that will. Sounds like it's time for the next
section. As for the extra dimple, stick a rivet in it, and later
you can fill the rivet and it'll disappear.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
>
>
> I am have just finished my vertical stab and rudder. Along the way I
> have had a few oops moments usually fixable. There have been a couple
> that have left their mark sort of speak. These include:
>
>
>
> * An extra dimple where there should be none
> * A couple of very small dents associated with riveting
> * A very, very, very small RV10 Vertical Stab Signature dent
>
>
>
> My question for the finishing experts is to what extent will painting
> hide, cover up, make invisible minor imperfections arising from the
> construction process?
>
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know ...
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
>
>
> RV10 # 40643 On to the Horizontal Stab tomorrow!
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder question- ditto |
The cable guides for the rudder can be tight. You'll be moving
the pedals with your strong legs. You wouldn't want the pedals
loose and flopping around....it'll take a bit of a push to move
them. If you can tighten the center block to the point where you
can't move the pedals, my question is....how much force would
it take for you to move them...a lot, or a little? If you
honestly can't move them, even with huge force, yeah, they're
too tight. I can't imagine the hole being drilled right and
not having it be at least close. As for the aerodynamic forces,
there isn't much for force on a trailing rudder....until you
push it out into the wind, and at that point, there's lots of
force trying to re-center it. My guess is everything is just
fine, as long as everything is moveable in some way.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I haven't seen a response to John's question, I too would like to know
> how other builders have set them up. when I installed my cable guides
> they were very tight, how tight did you 'fly guys leave them?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> John Hasbrouck wrote:
>
>> Question regarding rudder bearing blocks and the "nylon" rudder cable
>> guides. How snug should both of these be? I can tighten the center
>> rudder bearing block to the pont where the rudder pedals will not
>> move, obviously too tight. Same with the rudder cable guides. How
>> much play do we need in these? Are the aerodynamic forces on the
>> rudder enough to overcome the situation? Will there be enough wear in
>> to loosen the pedals and the cable? Inquiring minds want to know
>>
>> John Hasbrouck
>> #40264
>>
>> *
>> *
>>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using Nut plates |
Ralph, I am having trouble visualizing this. Can you explain a little more
or maybe a pix?
"The thing to be careful of is having the nutplates perpendicular to the
edge...or the screws will be crooked."
Thanks Bill S
Ark 7a engine
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using
Nut plates
I just did mine using nutplates. I used soft rivets to set the nutplates
with.
The thing to be careful of is having the nutplates perpendicular to the
edge...or the screws will be crooked.
Two ways to do this that I know of:
Glass in a plate of aluminum at the correct angle (you could have the
nutplates set in the aluminum prior to glassing - but I wouldn't)
Bend the ears of the nutplate so they can go in fulsh to the surface and the
threads end up at the correct angle.
Been there done that...last weekend!
Ralph
RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 finishing up a million little things
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Pulis <mailto:patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using Nut
plates
Could anyone please tell me if they have opted to use nut plates when
installing the fibreglass elevator and rudder fairings in lieu of pop rivets
to allow future removal with ease?
If anyone out there has used nut plates, can these be glassed into place in
lieu of using flush rivets to attach the nut plates to the fibreglass
fairings. Likewise has anyone attached nut plates to the wing tip fairings
using glass in lieu of rivets?
Regards
PATRICK PULIS
Adelaide, South Australia
RV-10 #40299
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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Message 28
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| Subject: | Stupid question revisted. |
The reason that you use two antennas is that the switch if you use one
antenna and two radios is $700+ and the second antenna is 85 if you go with
a Bob Archer for the backup antenna.
Bob K
Wing HID installation. Two to three hours my hind end. LOL
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stupid question revisted.
John,
For my installation and the research that I have done (check the matronics
aeroelectric list archives), I'm using two antennas with two radios - placed
x-number of inches apart (I don't remember the magic number) because of the
issue that you have mentioned. I'm actually placing one under the belly
behind the main spar and the second one is foil tape in the windshield -
thinking ground vs air communications.
There are switches that allow for one antenna and two radios - to isolate
the nontransmitting one's receiver circuits - but if you have an antenna
failure - the second radio is useless.
It depends on what you want...I have one of the switches that I mentioned in
my avionics box - I think I got it from Bob Archer. I may use it eventually
- for specific missions.
Not saying right or wrong, just how I'm doing it and the basis for my
decision
Hope this helps,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>Sent: Nov 29, 2006 11:35 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Stupid question revisted.
>
>
>Okay, here is the trick. Label everything as a stupid question and get
lots
>of answers and all are done so with overwhelming kindness.
>
>Lets try again.
>
>1)Why are people placing two comm antennas.
>
>2)And when two antennas are placed, doesn't the nontransmitting one
>interfere with the transmitting one. Something like putting two tuning
>forks side by side and hiting one and the other starts humming too.
>
>Kindness only
>
>John G.
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder question- ditto |
Tim,
Thanks for the reply!! Since I don't have seats installed I can't get
good read on how the rudders will feel when moved with my legs. Did you
torque the bolts for the center block to the values recomended for the AN3
bolt? If I do that I can't move the pedals with my hands but that doesn't
speak to how they'd feel with my legs. Trying to avoid having to go back
and adjust stuff later. It's much easier when it's all open......john
#40264
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder question- ditto |
That seems strange that you couldn't move them at ALL with your hands.
I mean, it'll take a shove on the bottom of the pedal, and then
suddenly they break free and swing, but you should at least
be able to move them. Is there a huge gap between the block halves
or something that is allowing it to be super tight, or is it
basically coming together right when you start to tighten the
bolts? I just can't imagine that part being able to be torqued
so that it pinches too tightly to be good...but I suppose it's
possible somehow. If you can't move them with your hands though,
with even a hard push on the bottom of the pedal, then I'd
say that is too tight. Maybe some silicone spray would help,
or at that point you may want to verify the parts are cut properly.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Hasbrouck wrote:
>
> Tim,
> Thanks for the reply!! Since I don't have seats installed I can't
> get good read on how the rudders will feel when moved with my legs. Did
> you torque the bolts for the center block to the values recomended for
> the AN3 bolt? If I do that I can't move the pedals with my hands but
> that doesn't speak to how they'd feel with my legs. Trying to avoid
> having to go back and adjust stuff later. It's much easier when it's
> all open......john
>
> #40264
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: A question for the finishing mavens |
This is an OLD RV story. During the construction of HRII N561FS an extra
hole was drilled in the rudder skin. AGGGH...what to do?, what to do ?,
everyone will notice..... Well we just drilled an other hole on the other
side and filled both with rivets.
Sure nuff the RV inspectors (self appointed) looked over our tail feathers
at the fly-ins. (That's where they made their mistakes so they are looking
for yours.) They would point to the extra rivets with glee and ask "What
happened here ?". Our response was "Didn't you get the emergency AD, are you
still flying ?".
Only after they were deflated, we explained & we all had a good laugh,
GOTCHA.
I was told that one guy thought it was such a great gotcha he added the two,
used "pop" rivets and had a ball at OSH. KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Paint won't cover it, but you'll be doing some filler on all of the
> dings anyway, and that will. Sounds like it's time for the next
> section. As for the extra dimple, stick a rivet in it, and later
> you can fill the rivet and it'll disappear.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
>> Hi
>>
>> I am have just finished my vertical stab and rudder. Along the way I
>> have had a few oops moments usually fixable. There have been a couple
>> that have left their mark sort of speak. These include:
>>
>> * An extra dimple where there should be none
>> * A couple of very small dents associated with riveting
>> * A very, very, very small RV10 Vertical Stab Signature dent
>>
>> My question for the finishing experts is to what extent will painting
>> hide, cover up, make invisible minor imperfections arising from the
>> construction process?
>>
>> Inquiring minds need to know ...
Message 32
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| Subject: | A question for the finishing mavens |
Hi Tim
Thanks for the advice - I really didn't want to replace a skin. I was hoping
the Bondo solution etc would be acceptable. Anyway, Kearney's First Law of
Aircraft Repair states:
"There is a high probability of incurring a major problem whenever a smaller
problem is being repaired. Probability for the purposes of this law is
always unity".
Therefore, leaving well enough alone is always a viable solution.
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - On to the horizontal stab tomorrow.
PS: I find your website to be invaluable. Many thanks.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: A question for the finishing mavens
Paint won't cover it, but you'll be doing some filler on all of the
dings anyway, and that will. Sounds like it's time for the next
section. As for the extra dimple, stick a rivet in it, and later
you can fill the rivet and it'll disappear.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
>
>
> I am have just finished my vertical stab and rudder. Along the way I
> have had a few "oops moments" usually fixable. There have been a couple
> that have left their mark sort of speak. These include:
>
>
>
> * An extra dimple where there should be none
> * A couple of very small dents associated with riveting
> * A very, very, very small "RV10 Vertical Stab Signature dent"
>
>
>
> My question for the finishing experts is "to what extent will painting
> hide, cover up, make invisible minor imperfections arising from the
> construction process"?
>
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know ...
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
>
>
> RV10 # 40643 - On to the Horizontal Stab tomorrow!
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | A question for the finishing mavens |
Hmmmm
How would you like to come to sunny & warm Alberta for a Bondo training
session? Its all of -27C here today!
Cheers
Les
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jdalton77
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: A question for the finishing mavens
Les,
Painting your mistakes makes them look beautiful . . . and obvious! I
was
in the same position and spent the time to fill any dents and smooth out
smiley's using some filler. When I primed it looked prrrrrrrrrfect.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: A question for the finishing mavens
Hi
I am have just finished my vertical stab and rudder. Along the way I
have
had a few "oops moments" usually fixable. There have been a couple that
have
left their mark sort of speak. These include:
* An extra dimple where there should be none
* A couple of very small dents associated with riveting
* A very, very, very small "RV10 Vertical Stab Signature dent"
My question for the finishing experts is "to what extent will painting
hide,
cover up, make invisible minor imperfections arising from the
construction
process"?
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - On to the Horizontal Stab tomorrow!
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gator?RV10-List
Message 34
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| Subject: | A question about the QB fuselage |
John
I will have to give this some serious thought. If the savings is 4
months of
part time construction, perhaps it would be worth my while to go the SB
route. I expect to be able to put in some serious time over the spring /
summer.
The only think I am certain of right now is that I will get QB wings. I
have
had enough experience with leaking tanks to know I don't want to go near
them.
Cheers
Les
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
Les,
I went with the slo-build fuse and received it the end of May this
year. By September I'd caught up to where the quick build is when you
receive it. I had the advantage of not having to go back over
everything to
check correctness and didn't have to remove floor panels or other such
stuff. I hate having to drill out rivets. Besides the significant cost
savings ( did I mention I'm cheap? ) I enjoyed the building process much
more than when I did the wings. I work full time and am not a sheet
metal
genius so if I can get to this point in the time I did, I think anybody
else
would be able to also. I'm now installing rudders and controls, fuel
lines
ect.. So my vote is for slo-build all the way...
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 35
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| Subject: | A question about the QB fuselage |
Steve
Thanks for the advice. I've seem the QB wings at Van's. I am certain
that I
want to avoid dealing with all those skins and especially the tanks.
Wings
will be QB, but the fuse...
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
millstees@ameritech.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 5:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
Les:
I am slow build all the way. If I had it to do over again, I would
quick
build the wings, and slow build the fuselage. The fuel tanks are a real
mess, and you have to do everything twice. The fuselage is lots more
fun.
Steve Mills
RV-10 40486 Slow-build
Naperville, Illinois
finishing fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
Hi
With my eye fixed on the Jan price increase for QB fuselage as well as
the
lead time for same, I am pondering whether or not I should go QB for the
fuselage. Thus far I have been enjoying the build process and want to
get
the "full experience". That being said, I am quietly wondering if there
is
still enough left to do to make the QB option viable. Can anyone tell
give
me an overview of what is left to do in the QB fuselage kit? I have seen
a
QB fuselage at Van's and am wondering if I should just go with a slow
build
instead.
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - On to the horizontal stab tomorrow!
Do not archive
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href
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avi
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Message 36
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Thanks to all that offered advice on the small tear I have on a rib in the
baggage area. I contacted Van's and got the following response:
Sean, found your email.
No problem leaving it as is. Plenty of structure around it so it should be
just fine. scott at van's
I will still install a patch for peace of mind. Be careful if you haven't
installed the side steps yet. Until the floors are installed, these ribs
are very flexible.
Sean Blair
#40225
Message 37
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| Subject: | B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late than never I guess.
First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter with a Lycoming
540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4" spacer.
If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the vacuum pad there
is an interference issue with the inboard lower screw boss on the SD-20 and
the upper inboard corner of the oil filter adapter. I strongly suspect that the
interference issue would exist regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter
adapter. You have 2 solutions:
1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs for the vacuum
pad and a replacement shear coupling for the standard SD-20. Don't recall exact
price of the spacer kit, but it's $75-100. I have this combo installed on
my engine and can verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter
will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which is shorter than
the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking adapter" that rotates the
alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft about 3/4". This was their solution
before the spacer above and is what Ed Hayden installed. I don't know the cost.
Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which wouldn't have any interference
issue but would cost more in addition to adding weight, complexity
and more hose connections.
A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between the forward edge
of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard upper mounting bolt on the
oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter adapter spacer is 1.4" and I see that
most others are 1.5".
Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my engine. If you look
closely just to the right of the alternator and above the engine mount tube
you can see the bolt head in front of the screw boss on the alternator. This
is the problem area.
Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the above shown. Bill
is the guy to talk to at B&C.
Bob
RV-10 #40105
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=77992#77992
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/filter_004_132.jpg
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
My 2 cents on this issue.
Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a very simple
solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one side with a
1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from overflowing).
Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets the engine
block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that the oil will drip
directly into the milk carton).
Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter drain into
the milk carton.
In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will drain 95% of
the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining, remove the milk carton
and take the filter off. You will end up with a few spatters below, but very
easy to clean off.
Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great until the
residual overflowed my available space.
The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
grumpy
#40404
In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late than never I
guess.
First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter with a
Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4" spacer.
If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the vacuum pad
there is an interference issue with the inboard lower screw boss on the SD-20
and the upper inboard corner of the oil filter adapter. I strongly suspect that
the interference issue would exist regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil
filter adapter. You have 2 solutions:
1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs for the
vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the standard SD-20. Don't recall
exact price of the spacer kit, but it's $75-100. I have this combo installed
on my engine and can verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter
adapter will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which is shorter
than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking adapter" that rotates
the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft about 3/4". This was their
solution before the spacer above and is what Ed Hayden installed. I don't know
the
cost.
Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which wouldn't have any
interference issue but would cost more in addition to adding weight,
complexity and more hose connections.
A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between the forward
edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard upper mounting bolt on
the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter adapter spacer is 1.4" and I see
that most others are 1.5".
Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my engine. If you
look closely just to the right of the alternator and above the engine mount
tube you can see the bolt head in front of the screw boss on the alternator.
This is the problem area.
Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the above shown.
Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
Bob
RV-10 #40105
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder question- ditto |
Tim,
The block halves come together fine but the diameter of the opening has
been reduced by the width of the saw blade used to cut the block in half.
While we've been discussing back and forth I've been working the rudder
pedals and I think they are "wearing in". The movement seems to be freeing
up with use and as it does I've tightened the bolts a little more. My
biggest concern was that there would be sufficient aerodynamic force to
re-center the rudder and over come the friction in the system....john
#40264
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
I'll see our 2 cents and raise you 2 cents!!!
Use whatever container you can get under the filter. Use a center punch
and punch a hole in the side of the filter. Unscrew the filter 1/2
turn. Punch another hole in the filter and allow the filter to drain.
After the filter is empty, finish removing it and your 'catch basin'.
It'll make it an even cleaner job!!!
Linn
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
> My 2 cents on this issue.
>
> Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a very
> simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
>
> Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
>
> Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one side
> with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from overflowing).
>
> Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets the
> engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that the
> oil will drip directly into the milk carton).
>
> Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter drain
> into the milk carton.
>
> In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will drain
> 95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining, remove
> the milk carton and take the filter off. You will end up with a few
> spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
>
> Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
>
> I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great
> until the residual overflowed my available space.
>
> The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
>
> grumpy
> #40404
>
> In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
> bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
>
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late than
> never I guess.
>
> First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter
> with a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4"
> spacer.
>
> If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the
> vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the inboard lower
> screw boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil
> filter adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue
> would exist regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter
> adapter. You have 2 solutions:
>
> 1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs
> for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the
> standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit, but
> it's $75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and can
> verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter
> will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
>
> 2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which is
> shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking
> adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft
> about 3/4". This was their solution before the spacer above and
> is what Ed Hayden installed. I don't know the cost.
>
> Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which
> wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in
> addition to adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
>
> A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between
> the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard
> upper mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter
> adapter spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are 1.5".
>
> Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my
> engine. If you look closely just to the right of the alternator
> and above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in front
> of the screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem area.
>
> Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the above
> shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
>
> Bob
> RV-10 #40105
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | A question for the finishing mavens |
What a painful coincidence and reminder. About 2 hours ago, I was on the last 10
or so rivets on my left aileron bottom skin. I was actually amazed that riveting
was going so PERFECTLY well, since it's a tight space to rivet in.
Suddenly, that's interesting, why is there a gap between the nose skin and
bottom skin over this last set rivet? It is a minor detail, but it's not
PERFECT. I'm sure I can make it PERFECT!
Now, the damn gap is still there, along with a nice smiley in my bottom skin.
It is amazing how some lessons have to be learned over and over again! ;)
Jae
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: A question for the finishing mavens
Hi Tim
Thanks for the advice - I really didn't want to replace a skin. I was hoping the
Bondo solution etc would be acceptable. Anyway, Kearney's First Law of Aircraft
Repair states:
"There is a high probability of incurring a major problem whenever a smaller
problem is being repaired. Probability for the purposes of this law is always
unity".
Therefore, leaving well enough alone is always a viable solution.
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - On to the horizontal stab tomorrow.
PS: I find your website to be invaluable. Many thanks.
Message 42
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A relative sent this to me..don't know if it's true, but fun to try. Can't
get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully that's good enough to be an
RV-10 pilot.
Good luck,
Sean Blair
#40225
Here's an interesting test:
Think you have fine eye hand coordination--try this.
The object of the game is to move the red block around without
getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls.
If you can go longer than 22 seconds you are phenomenal.
Reportedly, the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are
expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try!
http://tinyurl.com/56t9u
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