Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:27 AM - Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser! (Matt Dralle)
1. 03:24 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (Rob Kermanj)
2. 03:58 AM - Re: Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict ()
3. 04:02 AM - Re: Stupid question revisted. (Link McGarity)
4. 04:59 AM - I knew it is going to happen (Michael Wellenzohn)
5. 05:14 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (linn Walters)
6. 05:19 AM - Re: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using Nut plates (Ralph E. Capen)
7. 06:01 AM - Re: I knew it is going to happen (Tim Olson)
8. 06:16 AM - Re: Weight of the IO-540? (Jesse Saint)
9. 06:22 AM - Re: A question for the finishing mavens (Jesse Saint)
10. 06:23 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
11. 06:24 AM - Re: Rudder question- ditto (Jesse Saint)
12. 06:29 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 06:30 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
14. 06:35 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (Jesse Saint)
15. 06:40 AM - Re: I knew it is going to happen (Jesse Saint)
16. 06:42 AM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (Jesse Saint)
17. 06:43 AM - Re: Stupid question revisted. (Jesse Saint)
18. 06:44 AM - Re: Weight of the IO-540? (Kelly McMullen)
19. 06:46 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (Jesse Saint)
20. 06:49 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (Kelly McMullen)
21. 06:51 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (Rob Kermanj)
22. 06:52 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (Rob Kermanj)
23. 06:55 AM - Re: Stupid question revisted. (Rob Kermanj)
24. 06:57 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (Mark Ritter)
25. 07:04 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (ddddsp1@juno.com)
26. 07:11 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
27. 07:22 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (BPA)
28. 07:29 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (Les Kearney)
29. 08:00 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (JSMcGrew@AOL.COM)
30. 08:13 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
31. 08:13 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (Rick)
32. 08:25 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (Mike Doyle)
33. 08:43 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (Jesse Saint)
34. 08:47 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (David M.)
35. 08:53 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (Sean Stephens)
36. 08:56 AM - Re: Stupid question revisted. (John Gonzalez)
37. 09:06 AM - Bonding in HS stab nose ribs. (John Gonzalez)
38. 09:14 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (John Gonzalez)
39. 10:09 AM - LED light revisted. (John Gonzalez)
40. 10:16 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (JOHN STARN)
41. 10:21 AM - Tool Questions ()
42. 10:22 AM - Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line (Niko)
43. 10:24 AM - Re: Fighter pilot? (JOHN STARN)
44. 10:35 AM - Re: LED light revisted. (Deems Davis)
45. 10:38 AM - Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line (Tim Olson)
46. 10:44 AM - Re: Tool Questions (Rick)
47. 10:44 AM - Re: Tool Questions (Deems Davis)
48. 11:04 AM - Re: LED light revisted. (John Gonzalez)
49. 11:12 AM - Re: Tool Questions (John Gonzalez)
50. 11:37 AM - Re: Tool Questions (Pascal)
51. 11:38 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict (linn Walters)
52. 12:02 PM - Re: Tool Questions (Stovall Todd Lt Col AF/A4RX)
53. 12:24 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (Chris , Susie Darcy)
54. 12:36 PM - Re: Tool Questions (Rick)
55. 01:02 PM - Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line ()
56. 02:29 PM - Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line (Tim Olson)
57. 03:07 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (Les Kearney)
58. 03:15 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (Chris , Susie Darcy)
59. 03:27 PM - Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line (Niko)
60. 03:32 PM - Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line (Niko)
61. 03:45 PM - Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line ()
62. 04:04 PM - Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line (Tim Olson)
63. 05:47 PM - Re: Fighter pilot? (John Erickson)
64. 06:13 PM - Re: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using Nut plates (Bill Schlatterer)
65. 06:16 PM - Re: Fighter pilot? (Bill Schlatterer)
66. 06:54 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (John Gonzalez)
67. 07:10 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (Chris , Susie Darcy)
68. 07:13 PM - Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line (John Gonzalez)
69. 07:14 PM - Re: Fighter pilot? (Marcus Cooper)
70. 07:53 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage (Rob Wright)
71. 08:02 PM - Re: Fighter pilot? (JSMcGrew@AOL.COM)
72. 08:05 PM - Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line ()
73. 11:25 PM - Re: A question about the QB fuselage and tools (John Gonzalez)
Message 0
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| Subject: | Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Well, its November 30th and that means three things...
1) Today I am now officially 43 years old... (arg...)
2) It marks that last "official" day of the List Fund Raiser!
3) Its the last day I will be bugging everyone for a whole year! :-)
If you use the Lists and enjoy the content and the no-advertising, no-spam, and
no-censorship way in which they're run, please make a Contribution today to support
their continued operation and upkeep. Your $20 or $30 goes a long way
to further the List operation and keep the bills paid.
I will be posting the List of Contributors next week, so make sure your name is
on it! :-)
Thank you to everyone that has made a Contribution so far this year! It is greatly
appreciated.
List Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
I'll see your 4 cents and raise it another 4:
Avery has a gizmo with a hose clamp, an adopter and a hose that works
like Linn's. You punch the hole on top, attach the gizmo, turn the
filter with the hose facing down and out comes the oil into whatever
jug you have placed on the ground!
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 29, 2006, at 10:52 PM, linn Walters wrote:
> I'll see our 2 cents and raise you 2 cents!!!
> Use whatever container you can get under the filter. Use a center
> punch and punch a hole in the side of the filter. Unscrew the
> filter 1/2 turn. Punch another hole in the filter and allow the
> filter to drain. After the filter is empty, finish removing it and
> your 'catch basin'. It'll make it an even cleaner job!!!
> Linn
>
> GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
>> My 2 cents on this issue.
>>
>> Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a
>> very simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
>>
>> Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
>>
>> Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one
>> side with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from
>> overflowing).
>>
>> Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets
>> the engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so
>> that the oil will drip directly into the milk carton).
>>
>> Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter
>> drain into the milk carton.
>>
>> In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will
>> drain 95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops
>> draining, remove the milk carton and take the filter off. You
>> will end up with a few spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
>>
>> Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
>>
>> I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked
>> great until the residual overflowed my available space.
>>
>> The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
>>
>> grumpy
>> #40404
>>
>> In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
>> bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
>> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>
>> I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late than
>> never I guess.
>>
>> First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter
>> with a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4"
>> spacer.
>>
>> If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the
>> vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the inboard lower
>> screw boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil
>> filter adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue
>> would exist regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter
>> adapter. You have 2 solutions:
>>
>> 1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs
>> for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the
>> standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit, but
>> it's $75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and can
>> verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter
>> will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
>>
>> 2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which is
>> shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking
>> adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft
>> about 3/4". This was their solution before the spacer above and
>> is what Ed Hayden installed. I don't know the cost.
>>
>> Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which
>> wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in
>> addition to adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
>>
>> A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between
>> the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard
>> upper mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter
>> adapter spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are 1.5".
>>
>> Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my
>> engine. If you look closely just to the right of the alternator
>> and above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in front
>> of the screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem area.
>>
>> Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the above
>> shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
>>
>> Bob
>> RV-10 #40105
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
The easiest way to prevent oil spillage is punch a hole in the oil filter on top
and blow compressed air into the filter thus pushing oil into the engine and
removing oil from the filter. Learned that one last year by an a/p in Costa
Rica. Jim
>
> From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> Date: 2006/11/29 Wed PM 10:52:36 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
>
> I'll see our 2 cents and raise you 2 cents!!!
> Use whatever container you can get under the filter. Use a center punch
> and punch a hole in the side of the filter. Unscrew the filter 1/2
> turn. Punch another hole in the filter and allow the filter to drain.
> After the filter is empty, finish removing it and your 'catch basin'.
> It'll make it an even cleaner job!!!
> Linn
>
> GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
>
> > My 2 cents on this issue.
> >
> > Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a very
> > simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
> >
> > Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
> >
> > Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one side
> > with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from overflowing).
> >
> > Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets the
> > engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that the
> > oil will drip directly into the milk carton).
> >
> > Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter drain
> > into the milk carton.
> >
> > In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will drain
> > 95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining, remove
> > the milk carton and take the filter off. You will end up with a few
> > spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
> >
> > Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
> >
> > I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great
> > until the residual overflowed my available space.
> >
> > The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
> >
> > grumpy
> > #40404
> >
> > In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
> > bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
> >
> > <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> >
> > I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late than
> > never I guess.
> >
> > First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter
> > with a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4"
> > spacer.
> >
> > If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the
> > vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the inboard lower
> > screw boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil
> > filter adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue
> > would exist regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter
> > adapter. You have 2 solutions:
> >
> > 1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs
> > for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the
> > standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit, but
> > it's $75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and can
> > verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter
> > will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
> >
> > 2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which is
> > shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking
> > adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft
> > about 3/4". This was their solution before the spacer above and
> > is what Ed Hayden installed. I don't know the cost.
> >
> > Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which
> > wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in
> > addition to adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
> >
> > A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between
> > the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard
> > upper mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter
> > adapter spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are 1.5".
> >
> > Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my
> > engine. If you look closely just to the right of the alternator
> > and above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in front
> > of the screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem area.
> >
> > Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the above
> > shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
> >
> > Bob
> > RV-10 #40105
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Stupid question revisted. |
1.) Because they can....
2.) Yes, if placed too close together or wrong distance apart, and if
resonant at same freq. This may apply regardless of whether
selected/deselected by A/B antenna switch. Short answer is follow mfr's
recommendations, or call their tech line.
Somewhat analogous to placing passive RF conductive material in tactical
aircraft exterior coatings that is resonant to incoming radar signals,
i.e. not connected to anything but still reacts, is reactive...
For antenna A/B switch, simply need to get one with correct connector
types (better) or adapters, and that has low loss at working frequencies.
Like George Bush 41, hoping for a kinder, gentler America someday....
Link McGarity
#40622
tailcone
also ham radio afflicted
Message 4
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| Subject: | I knew it is going to happen |
Hi there,
ok I screwed up riveting a 470 4-4 rivet and had to drill it out, the second attempt
went wrong again and then drilling out made the 30# hole look like an 8.
What rivet do I have to use now and what core drill?
Michael (who is finishing the tailcone and expecting the wings next week)
--------
RV-10 builder (tailcone)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78103#78103
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
Ante up everybody!!!
The Avery 'thingy' (highly technical term ;-) ) would also benefit from
a second hole opposite the hose to allow air into the filter while it
drains.
do not archive
Linn
Rob Kermanj wrote:
> I'll see your 4 cents and raise it another 4:
>
> Avery has a gizmo with a hose clamp, an adopter and a hose that works
> like Linn's. You punch the hole on top, attach the gizmo, turn the
> filter with the hose facing down and out comes the oil into whatever
> jug you have placed on the ground!
>
>
> Rob Kermanj
>
>
> On Nov 29, 2006, at 10:52 PM, linn Walters wrote:
>
>> I'll see our 2 cents and raise you 2 cents!!!
>> Use whatever container you can get under the filter. Use a center
>> punch and punch a hole in the side of the filter. Unscrew the filter
>> 1/2 turn. Punch another hole in the filter and allow the filter to
>> drain. After the filter is empty, finish removing it and your 'catch
>> basin'. It'll make it an even cleaner job!!!
>> Linn
>>
>> GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> My 2 cents on this issue.
>>>
>>> Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a
>>> very simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
>>>
>>> Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
>>>
>>> Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one
>>> side with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from
>>> overflowing).
>>>
>>> Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets
>>> the engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that
>>> the oil will drip directly into the milk carton).
>>>
>>> Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter
>>> drain into the milk carton.
>>>
>>> In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will
>>> drain 95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining,
>>> remove the milk carton and take the filter off. You will end up
>>> with a few spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
>>>
>>> Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
>>>
>>> I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great
>>> until the residual overflowed my available space.
>>>
>>> The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
>>>
>>> grumpy
>>> #40404
>>>
>>> In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
>>> bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
>>>
>>> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>>
>>> I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late
>>> than never I guess.
>>>
>>> First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter
>>> with a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4"
>>> spacer.
>>>
>>> If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the
>>> vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the inboard lower
>>> screw boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil
>>> filter adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue
>>> would exist regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter
>>> adapter. You have 2 solutions:
>>>
>>> 1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement
>>> studs for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for
>>> the standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit,
>>> but it's $75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and
>>> can verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter
>>> adapter will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
>>>
>>> 2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which
>>> is shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a
>>> "clocking adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and
>>> moves is aft about 3/4". This was their solution before the
>>> spacer above and is what Ed Hayden installed. I don't know the
>>> cost.
>>>
>>> Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which
>>> wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in
>>> addition to adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
>>>
>>> A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between
>>> the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and
>>> inboard upper mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's
>>> oil filter adapter spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are
>>> 1.5".
>>>
>>> Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my
>>> engine. If you look closely just to the right of the alternator
>>> and above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in
>>> front of the screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem
>>> area.
>>>
>>> Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the
>>> above shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>> RV-10 #40105
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>>href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>>href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
>>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using Nut |
plates
Bill,
I don't have any photos of the offending nutplates on my plane as I have fixed
them - I'll try to take a couple of my second VS top cap (I have a VOR/GS/ILS
antenna up there and the second cap is for when I take it off - special missions)
which still has a couple of these offensive buggers.
Essentially what happens is the inside of the fiberglass is not parallel to the
outside of the fiberglass/gelcoat - resulting in the nutplate being installed
(from the inside) not parallel to the outside. This causes the screw to go in
crooked - one side of the screw (side being relative to the ears of the nutplate
being on the ends) will stick out and the other side will be recessed.
Try clecoing in the nutplate and see how the screw sits when you put it in a bit.
If the top of the screw is parallel to the gelcoat flange as viewed from the
end, you're all right. Otherwise, you'll see it.
I'll try to remember to take a couple of pics this weekend so you can visualize
since I probably haven't explained it better the second time............
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Schlatterer <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
>Sent: Nov 29, 2006 8:54 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using Nut
plates
>
>Ralph, I am having trouble visualizing this. Can you explain a little more
>or maybe a pix?
>
>"The thing to be careful of is having the nutplates perpendicular to the
>edge...or the screws will be crooked."
>
>Thanks Bill S
>Ark 7a engine
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:25 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using
>Nut plates
>
>
>I just did mine using nutplates. I used soft rivets to set the nutplates
>with.
>
>The thing to be careful of is having the nutplates perpendicular to the
>edge...or the screws will be crooked.
>
>Two ways to do this that I know of:
>
>Glass in a plate of aluminum at the correct angle (you could have the
>nutplates set in the aluminum prior to glassing - but I wouldn't)
>Bend the ears of the nutplate so they can go in fulsh to the surface and the
>threads end up at the correct angle.
>
>Been there done that...last weekend!
>
>Ralph
>RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 finishing up a million little things
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Patrick Pulis <mailto:patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:13 PM
>Subject: RV10-List: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using Nut
>plates
>
>
>Could anyone please tell me if they have opted to use nut plates when
>installing the fibreglass elevator and rudder fairings in lieu of pop rivets
>to allow future removal with ease?
>
>If anyone out there has used nut plates, can these be glassed into place in
>lieu of using flush rivets to attach the nut plates to the fibreglass
>fairings. Likewise has anyone attached nut plates to the wing tip fairings
>using glass in lieu of rivets?
>
>Regards
>
>PATRICK PULIS
>Adelaide, South Australia
>RV-10 #40299
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>
>href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>
>href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
>
>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
>"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
>gator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: I knew it is going to happen |
You'd want to probably use a -5 sized rivet. I bought some long ones
and a rivet cutter. Never actually needed one though. If it's in
an area that isn't noticible, you could also probably just use a
#8 screw if the hole is as big as you say. Depends on what it is.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Hi there,
>
> ok I screwed up riveting a 470 4-4 rivet and had to drill it out, the second
attempt went wrong again and then drilling out made the 30# hole look like an
8.
> What rivet do I have to use now and what core drill?
>
> Michael (who is finishing the tailcone and expecting the wings next week)
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (tailcone)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78103#78103
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Weight of the IO-540? |
With the hartzell up front and full fuel and two people (front seats), we
find that it handles fine on landing if you just don't use full flaps. Full
flaps makes it a little harder to get the nose up.
As was mentioned before, it is always easier to add weight that to remove
it. Just be careful when flying full (at or near gross) because then your
CG will be further aft, which is worse.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:39 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight of the IO-540?
Rick,
I have a three blade MT prop (love it) but no light weight engine (Aero
Sport). My CG only moved aft a small amount - not enough to take the shot
bag out of the baggage compartment. My experience has been with one or two
folks on board I make better landings (still waiting for that perfect 10)
with the shot bag in the back and two notches of flaps.
Mark (N410MR - in paint shop)
>From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight of the IO-540?
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 11:26:40 -0500 (EST)
>
>
>Not too concerned but the W & B will tell....I think I will be able to get
>rid of the bag of lead in the back seat when flying with just two like
>during my demo ride in the factory RV-10.
>
>My initial thought is the lighter front will create a more balanced CG.
>There are others with the same combo so I'm not to worried.
>Besides....weight is a whole bunch easier to add than remove.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
View Athletes Collections with Live Search
http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06&FORM=MGAC01
--
3:22 PM
--
3:22 PM
Message 9
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| Subject: | A question for the finishing mavens |
I am sure others have answered already, but without reading all of the
replies, here=92s my take.
If the extra dimple is an extra hole, then fill it with a rivet. If it
is
in a hole that didn=92t call for a dimple, then you should dimple the
other
parts as well (or countersink) because flattening a dimple greatly
reduces
the strength of the skin around it. Often, in practice, dimpling one
way
then going back the other will weaken it enough that it breaks (or maybe
it
is the third dimple that breaks it). Either way, each time after the
first
that you stretch the skin it gets weaker.
On the signature dent, if you don=92t leave it, people will just assume
that
you covered it up anyway. :-)
On finishing covering dings, that all depends on you. Some guys finish
to
the point where you don=92t even see the rivets because the puttied them
all
over. Others fly unpainted and =93let it all hang out=94. So, the long
and
short of it is, you can cover anything you are willing to take the time
to
cover, but it can take a lot of time.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: A question for the finishing mavens
Hi
I am have just finished my vertical stab and rudder. Along the way I
have
had a few =93oops moments=94 usually fixable. There have been a couple
that have
left their mark sort of speak. These include:
* An extra dimple where there should be none
* A couple of very small dents associated with riveting
* A very, very, very small =93RV10 Vertical Stab Signature dent=94
My question for the finishing experts is =93to what extent will painting
hide,
cover up, make invisible minor imperfections arising from the
construction
process=94?
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 ' On to the Horizontal Stab tomorrow!
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
11/28/2006
3:22 PM
--
11/28/2006
3:22 PM
Message 10
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| Subject: | B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
As creative as the various solutions are to prevent spillage and mess,
my intent isn't to try to convince anybody to use this solution or not.
I read the RVator that showed up yesterday and there was an article
about 90 degree oil filter adapters, fit complications and spacer size.
Additionally, Van's is not selling a 90 degree oil filter adapter so I
suspect the proliferation of questions and issues with that will begin
shortly. Earlier I had said that I'd report back on the final solution
for the B&C install and the article simply reminded me that I hadn't.
Most people have probably just left the stock oil filter configuration
as-is and for those, all of the suggestions to reduce mess are
wonderful!
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
Ante up everybody!!!
The Avery 'thingy' (highly technical term ;-) ) would also benefit from
a second hole opposite the hose to allow air into the filter while it
drains.
do not archive
Linn
Rob Kermanj wrote:
I'll see your 4 cents and raise it another 4:
Avery has a gizmo with a hose clamp, an adopter and a hose that works
like Linn's. You punch the hole on top, attach the gizmo, turn the
filter with the hose facing down and out comes the oil into whatever jug
you have placed on the ground!
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 29, 2006, at 10:52 PM, linn Walters wrote:
I'll see our 2 cents and raise you 2 cents!!!
Use whatever container you can get under the filter. Use a center punch
and punch a hole in the side of the filter. Unscrew the filter 1/2
turn. Punch another hole in the filter and allow the filter to drain.
After the filter is empty, finish removing it and your 'catch basin'.
It'll make it an even cleaner job!!!
Linn
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
My 2 cents on this issue.
Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a very
simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one side
with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from overflowing).
Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets the
engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that the oil
will drip directly into the milk carton).
Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter drain
into the milk carton.
In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will drain
95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining, remove the
milk carton and take the filter off. You will end up with a few
spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great
until the residual overflowed my available space.
The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
grumpy
#40404
In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com> <mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late
than never I guess.
First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter
with a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4" spacer.
If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the
vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the inboard lower screw
boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil filter
adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue would exist
regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter adapter. You have 2
solutions:
1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement
studs for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the
standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit, but it's
$75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and can verify that
it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter will absolutely NOT
work with this combination.
2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which
is shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking
adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft about
3/4". This was their solution before the spacer above and is what Ed
Hayden installed. I don't know the cost.
Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which
wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in addition to
adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between
the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard upper
mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter adapter
spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are 1.5".
Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my
engine. If you look closely just to the right of the alternator and
above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in front of the
screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem area.
Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the
above shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
Bob
RV-10 #40105
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com" <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
>www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com" <http://www.buildersbooks.com>
>www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com" <http://www.kitlog.com> >www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com" <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
>www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Rudder question- ditto |
Tight enough to put some drag, but not really tight. It helps to keep the
cables a little snug in their places if they hold on, but you certainly
don't want it so tight that you can't move it with your hand. I can't speak
to whether it will loosen with wear or not, but I wouldn't want to leave it
that way.
Just my take on it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder question- ditto
I haven't seen a response to John's question, I too would like to know
how other builders have set them up. when I installed my cable guides
they were very tight, how tight did you 'fly guys leave them?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> Question regarding rudder bearing blocks and the "nylon" rudder cable
> guides. How snug should both of these be? I can tighten the center
> rudder bearing block to the pont where the rudder pedals will not
> move, obviously too tight. Same with the rudder cable guides. How
> much play do we need in these? Are the aerodynamic forces on the
> rudder enough to overcome the situation? Will there be enough wear in
> to loosen the pedals and the cable? Inquiring minds want to know
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>*
>*
>
--
3:22 PM
--
3:22 PM
Message 12
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| Subject: | B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
See your 0.08 and raise you a 0.25. How about a remote mount filter?
:-)
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
I'll see your 4 cents and raise it another 4:
Avery has a gizmo with a hose clamp, an adopter and a hose that works
like Linn's. You punch the hole on top, attach the gizmo, turn the
filter with the hose facing down and out comes the oil into whatever jug
you have placed on the ground!
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 29, 2006, at 10:52 PM, linn Walters wrote:
I'll see our 2 cents and raise you 2 cents!!!
Use whatever container you can get under the filter. Use a
center punch and punch a hole in the side of the filter. Unscrew the
filter 1/2 turn. Punch another hole in the filter and allow the filter
to drain. After the filter is empty, finish removing it and your 'catch
basin'. It'll make it an even cleaner job!!!
Linn
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
My 2 cents on this issue.
Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter,
I found a very simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first
try.
Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end,
leaving one side with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil
from overflowing).
Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter
where it meets the engine block (there is room to slide it slightly
forward so that the oil will drip directly into the milk carton).
Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from
the filter drain into the milk carton.
In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off,
you will drain 95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops
draining, remove the milk carton and take the filter off. You will end
up with a few spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you
drink milk!)
I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it
worked great until the residual overflowed my available space.
The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't
cost a thing!
grumpy
#40404
In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central
Standard Time, bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com> <mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I'm delinquent posting results of this combo,
but better late than never I guess.
First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil
filter adapter with a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need
their 1.4" spacer.
If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20
alternator on the vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the
inboard lower screw boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of
the oil filter adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue
would exist regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter adapter.
You have 2 solutions:
1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains
replacement studs for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling
for the standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit, but
it's $75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and can verify
that it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter will
absolutely NOT work with this combination.
2) There is another version of the SD-20 called
an SD-20S which is shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with
a "clocking adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is
aft about 3/4". This was their solution before the spacer above and is
what Ed Hayden installed. I don't know the cost.
Of course, you could also install a remote oil
filter which wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in
addition to adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8"
(.125") between the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss
and inboard upper mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil
filter adapter spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are 1.5".
Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above)
installed on my engine. If you look closely just to the right of the
alternator and above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in
front of the screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem area.
Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't
have any of the above shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
Bob
RV-10 #40105
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
o
ntribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
Correction: Van's IS NOW selling a 90 degree oil filter adapter.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
As creative as the various solutions are to prevent spillage and mess,
my intent isn't to try to convince anybody to use this solution or not.
I read the RVator that showed up yesterday and there was an article
about 90 degree oil filter adapters, fit complications and spacer size.
Additionally, Van's is not selling a 90 degree oil filter adapter so I
suspect the proliferation of questions and issues with that will begin
shortly. Earlier I had said that I'd report back on the final solution
for the B&C install and the article simply reminded me that I hadn't.
Most people have probably just left the stock oil filter configuration
as-is and for those, all of the suggestions to reduce mess are
wonderful!
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
Ante up everybody!!!
The Avery 'thingy' (highly technical term ;-) ) would also benefit from
a second hole opposite the hose to allow air into the filter while it
drains.
do not archive
Linn
Rob Kermanj wrote:
I'll see your 4 cents and raise it another 4:
Avery has a gizmo with a hose clamp, an adopter and a hose that works
like Linn's. You punch the hole on top, attach the gizmo, turn the
filter with the hose facing down and out comes the oil into whatever jug
you have placed on the ground!
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 29, 2006, at 10:52 PM, linn Walters wrote:
I'll see our 2 cents and raise you 2 cents!!!
Use whatever container you can get under the filter. Use a center punch
and punch a hole in the side of the filter. Unscrew the filter 1/2
turn. Punch another hole in the filter and allow the filter to drain.
After the filter is empty, finish removing it and your 'catch basin'.
It'll make it an even cleaner job!!!
Linn
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
My 2 cents on this issue.
Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a very
simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one side
with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from overflowing).
Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets the
engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that the oil
will drip directly into the milk carton).
Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter drain
into the milk carton.
In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will drain
95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining, remove the
milk carton and take the filter off. You will end up with a few
spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great
until the residual overflowed my available space.
The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
grumpy
#40404
In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com> <mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late
than never I guess.
First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter
with a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4" spacer.
If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the
vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the inboard lower screw
boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil filter
adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue would exist
regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter adapter. You have 2
solutions:
1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement
studs for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the
standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit, but it's
$75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and can verify that
it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter will absolutely NOT
work with this combination.
2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which
is shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking
adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft about
3/4". This was their solution before the spacer above and is what Ed
Hayden installed. I don't know the cost.
Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which
wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in addition to
adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between
the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard upper
mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter adapter
spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are 1.5".
Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my
engine. If you look closely just to the right of the alternator and
above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in front of the
screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem area.
Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the
above shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
Bob
RV-10 #40105
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com" <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
>www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com" <http://www.buildersbooks.com>
>www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com" <http://www.kitlog.com> >www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com" <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
>www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
www.aeroelectric.com
www.kitlog.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
www.aeroelectric.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
But if you don=92t have room for the milk jug underneath it is really
hard to
keep clean. It can help having a plastic bag, but then the filter is
harder
to remove. Either way, the angle adapter is SWEET to work with. Punch
a
couple of holes in the filter, wait 10 minutes or so, and the filter
comes
right off dry as a bone. Having done both, I would definitely go with
the
adapter. The Mattituck engine came with an adapter that isn=92t
B&C=92s. I
wonder how much they sell it for.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
GenGrumpy@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
My 2 cents on this issue.
Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a very
simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one side
with
a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from overflowing).
Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets the
engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that the oil
will drip directly into the milk carton).
Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter drain
into
the milk carton.
In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will drain
95%
of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining, remove the
milk
carton and take the filter off. You will end up with a few spatters
below,
but very easy to clean off.
Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great
until
the residual overflowed my available space.
The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
grumpy
#40404
In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late than never
I
guess.
First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter with a
Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4" spacer.
If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the vacuum
pad
there is an interference issue with the inboard lower screw boss on the
SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil filter adapter. I
strongly
suspect that the interference issue would exist regardless of teh brand
of
90 degree oil filter adapter. You have 2 solutions:
1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs for
the
vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the standard SD-20.
Don't
recall exact price of the spacer kit, but it's $75-100. I have this
combo
installed on my engine and can verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on
the
oil filter adapter will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which is
shorter
than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking adapter" that
rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft about 3/4". This was
their solution before the spacer above and is what Ed Hayden installed.
I
don't know the cost.
Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which wouldn't
have
any interference issue but would cost more in addition to adding weight,
complexity and more hose connections.
A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between the
forward
edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard upper mounting
bolt
on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter adapter spacer is 1.4" and
I
see that most others are 1.5".
Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my engine. If
you
look closely just to the right of the alternator and above the engine
mount
tube you can see the bolt head in front of the screw boss on the
alternator.
This is the problem area.
Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the above
shown.
Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
Bob
RV-10 #40105
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
11/28/2006
3:22 PM
--
11/28/2006
3:22 PM
Message 15
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| Subject: | I knew it is going to happen |
One option would be to use a longer 4 rivet and let it swell to fill the
hole, but you would be better going bigger, or, like Tim said, putting a
screw in there. That all depends on where it is.
Better yet, leave the rivet out and use some Bondo to fill the hole. :-)
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: I knew it is going to happen
<michael@wellenzohn.net>
Hi there,
ok I screwed up riveting a 470 4-4 rivet and had to drill it out, the second
attempt went wrong again and then drilling out made the 30# hole look like
an 8.
What rivet do I have to use now and what core drill?
Michael (who is finishing the tailcone and expecting the wings next week)
--------
RV-10 builder (tailcone)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78103#78103
--
3:22 PM
--
3:22 PM
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | A question about the QB fuselage |
If they have a QB fuse option where they built the second half and the
builder did the first half, I am sure a lot of people would jump on it.
If
you are going QB wings anyway, then I would say it is a matter of funds
available vs. cost. What is the lead time on the QB fuse anyway,
compared
to the SB option?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
Hi
With my eye fixed on the Jan price increase for QB fuselage as well as
the
lead time for same, I am pondering whether or not I should go QB for the
fuselage. Thus far I have been enjoying the build process and want to
get
the =93full experience=94. That being said, I am quietly wondering if
there is
still enough left to do to make the QB option viable. Can anyone tell
give
me an overview of what is left to do in the QB fuselage kit? I have seen
a
QB fuselage at Van=92s and am wondering if I should just go with a slow
build
instead.
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 ' On to the horizontal stab tomorrow!
Do not archive
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
11/28/2006
3:22 PM
--
11/28/2006
3:22 PM
Message 17
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| Subject: | Stupid question revisted. |
In my research, having the antennas 30-36 inches apart will avoid these
problems. Two antennas to be able to use both radios at the same time,
often monitoring one while transmitting on the other, or listening to an
ATIS or AWOS on one while maintaining com with ATC on the other. I have
heard of the switch that allows the use of one antenna, but as others have
said, I would not spend $700, or even the same amount as an extra antenna to
avoid putting the extra antenna. Plus, it looks cool having two of them
side by side on the belly.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Stupid question revisted.
Okay, here is the trick. Label everything as a stupid question and get lots
of answers and all are done so with overwhelming kindness.
Lets try again.
1)Why are people placing two comm antennas.
2)And when two antennas are placed, doesn't the nontransmitting one
interfere with the transmitting one. Something like putting two tuning
forks side by side and hiting one and the other starts humming too.
Kindness only
John G.
--
3:22 PM
--
3:22 PM
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Weight of the IO-540? |
I wonder what is different about #2 demonstrator/prototype as far as
W&B/CG with the lighter Cont. IO-360 up front. It would seem that
similar adjustments could be made if you planned for lighter
engine/prop combination while building the fuselage.
On 11/30/06, Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org> wrote:
>
> With the hartzell up front and full fuel and two people (front seats), we
> find that it handles fine on landing if you just don't use full flaps. Full
> flaps makes it a little harder to get the nose up.
>
> As was mentioned before, it is always easier to add weight that to remove
> it. Just be careful when flying full (at or near gross) because then your
> CG will be further aft, which is worse.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:39 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight of the IO-540?
>
>
> Rick,
>
> I have a three blade MT prop (love it) but no light weight engine (Aero
> Sport). My CG only moved aft a small amount - not enough to take the shot
> bag out of the baggage compartment. My experience has been with one or two
> folks on board I make better landings (still waiting for that perfect 10)
> with the shot bag in the back and two notches of flaps.
>
> Mark (N410MR - in paint shop)
>
>
> >From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
> >To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight of the IO-540?
> >Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 11:26:40 -0500 (EST)
> >
> >
> >Not too concerned but the W & B will tell....I think I will be able to get
> >rid of the bag of lead in the back seat when flying with just two like
> >during my demo ride in the factory RV-10.
> >
> >My initial thought is the lighter front will create a more balanced CG.
> >There are others with the same combo so I'm not to worried.
> >Besides....weight is a whole bunch easier to add than remove.
> >
> >Rick S.
> >40185
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> View Athlete's Collections with Live Search
> http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06&FORM=MGAC01
>
>
> --
> 3:22 PM
>
>
> --
> 3:22 PM
>
>
Message 19
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|
I made it 10.6. Hopefully that good enough to be an RV-10 builder.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
A relative sent this to me=85=85don=92t know if it=92s true, but fun to
try. Can=92t
get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully that=92s good enough to
be an
RV-10 pilot.
Good luck,
Sean Blair
#40225
Here's an interesting test:
Think you have fine eye hand coordination--try this.
The object of the game is to move the red block around without
getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls.
If you can go longer than 22 seconds you are phenomenal.
Reportedly, the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are
expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try!
HYPERLINK "http://tinyurl.com/56t9u"http://tinyurl.com/56t9u
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
11/28/2006
3:22 PM
--
11/28/2006
3:22 PM
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
Or, if you belong to the CheapBastard(TM) flavor of aviation, you
simply allow the oil to drain overnight in the hangar, place a few
semi-used paper towels under the filter for removal, and they soak up
the tablespoon or so of oil that comes out as you remove filter. Has
worked for me for years on my Lyc powered Mooney.
On 11/30/06, linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Ante up everybody!!!
> The Avery 'thingy' (highly technical term ;-) ) would also benefit from a
> second hole opposite the hose to allow air into the filter while it drains.
> do not archive
> Linn
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
My only objection to a remote filter is the extra hoses and
connections creating potential leak sources.
do not archive
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 30, 2006, at 9:28 AM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> See your 0.08 and raise you a 0.25. How about a remote mount
> filter? :-)
>
> Michael
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
>
> I'll see your 4 cents and raise it another 4:
>
> Avery has a gizmo with a hose clamp, an adopter and a hose that
> works like Linn's. You punch the hole on top, attach the gizmo,
> turn the filter with the hose facing down and out comes the oil
> into whatever jug you have placed on the ground!
>
>
> Rob Kermanj
>
>
> On Nov 29, 2006, at 10:52 PM, linn Walters wrote:
>
>> I'll see our 2 cents and raise you 2 cents!!!
>> Use whatever container you can get under the filter. Use a center
>> punch and punch a hole in the side of the filter. Unscrew the
>> filter 1/2 turn. Punch another hole in the filter and allow the
>> filter to drain. After the filter is empty, finish removing it
>> and your 'catch basin'. It'll make it an even cleaner job!!!
>> Linn
>>
>> GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
>>> My 2 cents on this issue.
>>>
>>> Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a
>>> very simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
>>>
>>> Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
>>>
>>> Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one
>>> side with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from
>>> overflowing).
>>>
>>> Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it
>>> meets the engine block (there is room to slide it slightly
>>> forward so that the oil will drip directly into the milk carton).
>>>
>>> Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter
>>> drain into the milk carton.
>>>
>>> In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will
>>> drain 95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops
>>> draining, remove the milk carton and take the filter off. You
>>> will end up with a few spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
>>>
>>> Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
>>>
>>> I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked
>>> great until the residual overflowed my available space.
>>>
>>> The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
>>>
>>> grumpy
>>> #40404
>>>
>>> In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
>>> bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
>>> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>>
>>> I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late
>>> than never I guess.
>>>
>>> First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter
>>> with a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4"
>>> spacer.
>>>
>>> If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the
>>> vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the inboard lower
>>> screw boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil
>>> filter adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue
>>> would exist regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter
>>> adapter. You have 2 solutions:
>>>
>>> 1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs
>>> for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the
>>> standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit, but
>>> it's $75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and can
>>> verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter
>>> will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
>>>
>>> 2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which
>>> is shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a
>>> "clocking adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and
>>> moves is aft about 3/4". This was their solution before the
>>> spacer above and is what Ed Hayden installed. I don't know the
>>> cost.
>>>
>>> Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which
>>> wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in
>>> addition to adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
>>>
>>> A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between
>>> the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and
>>> inboard upper mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil
>>> filter adapter spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are 1.5".
>>>
>>> Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my
>>> engine. If you look closely just to the right of the alternator
>>> and above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in
>>> front of the screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem
>>> area.
>>>
>>> Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the
>>> above shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>> RV-10 #40105
>>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>> href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
>> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
>> www.matronics.com/contribution
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://
>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-
> List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
ECI has an adopter for under $200.
do not archive
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 30, 2006, at 9:33 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> But if you don=92t have room for the milk jug underneath it is really
> hard to keep clean. It can help having a plastic bag, but then the
> filter is harder to remove. Either way, the angle adapter is SWEET
> to work with. Punch a couple of holes in the filter, wait 10
> minutes or so, and the filter comes right off dry as a bone.
> Having done both, I would definitely go with the adapter. The
> Mattituck engine came with an adapter that isn=92t B&C=92s. I wonder
> how much they sell it for.
>
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf OfGenGrumpy@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:17 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
>
>
> My 2 cents on this issue.
>
>
> Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a
> very simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
>
>
> Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
>
>
> Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one
> side with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from
> overflowing).
>
>
> Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets
> the engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so
> that the oil will drip directly into the milk carton).
>
>
> Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter
> drain into the milk carton.
>
>
> In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will
> drain 95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining,
> remove the milk carton and take the filter off. You will end up
> with a few spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
>
>
> Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
>
>
> I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great
> until the residual overflowed my available space.
>
>
> The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
>
>
> grumpy
>
> #40404
>
>
> In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
> bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
>
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late than
> never I guess.
>
> First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter with
> a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4" spacer.
>
> If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the
> vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the inboard lower
> screw boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil
> filter adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue
> would exist regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter
> adapter. You have 2 solutions:
>
> 1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs
> for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the
> standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit, but
> it's $75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and can
> verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter
> will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
>
> 2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which is
> shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking
> adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft
> about 3/4". This was their solution before the spacer above and is
> what Ed Hayden installed. I don't know the cost.
>
> Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which
> wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in
> addition to adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
>
> A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between
> the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard
> upper mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter
> adapter spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are 1.5".
>
> Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my
> engine. If you look closely just to the right of the alternator
> and above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in front
> of the screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem area.
>
> Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the above
> shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
>
> Bob
> RV-10 #40105
>
>
> www.aeroelectric.com
> www.buildersbooks.com
> www.kitlog.com
> www.homebuilthelp.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> -- Release Date: 11/28/2006 3:22 PM
> --
> 11/28/2006 3:22 PM
>
Annual
> ========================
List
> ========================
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stupid question revisted. |
I believe a rule-of-thumb for antenna placement might be a distance
equal or greater than the length of the antenna from other
transmitting sources.
do not archive
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 30, 2006, at 9:42 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> In my research, having the antennas 30-36 inches apart will avoid
> these
> problems. Two antennas to be able to use both radios at the same
> time,
> often monitoring one while transmitting on the other, or listening
> to an
> ATIS or AWOS on one while maintaining com with ATC on the other. I
> have
> heard of the switch that allows the use of one antenna, but as
> others have
> said, I would not spend $700, or even the same amount as an extra
> antenna to
> avoid putting the extra antenna. Plus, it looks cool having two of
> them
> side by side on the belly.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
> Gonzalez
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:35 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Stupid question revisted.
>
> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> Okay, here is the trick. Label everything as a stupid question and
> get lots
>
> of answers and all are done so with overwhelming kindness.
>
> Lets try again.
>
> 1)Why are people placing two comm antennas.
>
> 2)And when two antennas are placed, doesn't the nontransmitting one
> interfere with the transmitting one. Something like putting two
> tuning
> forks side by side and hiting one and the other starts humming too.
>
> Kindness only
>
> John G.
>
>
> --
> 3:22 PM
>
>
> --
> 3:22 PM
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
I have the B&C oil filter angle adapter and as Jesse posted just punch a
hole in the filter and wait ten - twenty minutes and the filter will drain
with no mess when removing.
The angle adapter and quick drain makes changing oil a piece of cake.
Mark (N410MR)
>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
>Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 09:33:56 -0500
>
>But if you dont have room for the milk jug underneath it is really hard to
>keep clean. It can help having a plastic bag, but then the filter is
>harder
>to remove. Either way, the angle adapter is SWEET to work with. Punch a
>couple of holes in the filter, wait 10 minutes or so, and the filter comes
>right off dry as a bone. Having done both, I would definitely go with the
>adapter. The Mattituck engine came with an adapter that isnt B&Cs. I
>wonder how much they sell it for.
>
>
>Do not archive.
>
>
>Jesse Saint
>
>I-TEC, Inc.
>
>HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
>
>HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
>
>W: 352-465-4545
>
>C: 352-427-0285
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>GenGrumpy@aol.com
>Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:17 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
>
>
>My 2 cents on this issue.
>
>
>Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a very
>simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
>
>
>Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
>
>
>Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one side with
>a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from overflowing).
>
>
>Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets the
>engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that the oil
>will drip directly into the milk carton).
>
>
>Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter drain into
>the milk carton.
>
>
>In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will drain 95%
>of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining, remove the milk
>carton and take the filter off. You will end up with a few spatters below,
>but very easy to clean off.
>
>
>Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
>
>
>I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great until
>the residual overflowed my available space.
>
>
>The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
>
>
>grumpy
>
>#40404
>
>
>In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
>bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
>
>
>I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late than never I
>guess.
>
>First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter with a
>Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4" spacer.
>
>If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the vacuum pad
>there is an interference issue with the inboard lower screw boss on the
>SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil filter adapter. I strongly
>suspect that the interference issue would exist regardless of teh brand of
>90 degree oil filter adapter. You have 2 solutions:
>
>1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs for the
>vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the standard SD-20. Don't
>recall exact price of the spacer kit, but it's $75-100. I have this combo
>installed on my engine and can verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on
>the
>oil filter adapter will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
>
>2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which is shorter
>than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking adapter" that
>rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft about 3/4". This was
>their solution before the spacer above and is what Ed Hayden installed. I
>don't know the cost.
>
>Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which wouldn't have
>any interference issue but would cost more in addition to adding weight,
>complexity and more hose connections.
>
>A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between the
>forward
>edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard upper mounting bolt
>on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter adapter spacer is 1.4" and I
>see that most others are 1.5".
>
>Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my engine. If you
>look closely just to the right of the alternator and above the engine mount
>tube you can see the bolt head in front of the screw boss on the
>alternator.
>This is the problem area.
>
>Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the above shown.
>Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
>
>Bob
>RV-10 #40105
>
>
>"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
>"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
>"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
>"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
>"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
>ator?RV10-List
>
>11/28/2006
>3:22 PM
>
>--
>11/28/2006
>3:22 PM
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 25
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|
| Subject: | B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
Vans Website does NOW offer spacers and 90 degree adapter.
________________________________________________________________________
<html><P>Vans Website does NOW offer spacers and 90 degree adapter.
</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
Who would have ever thought that this would start a "primer" war...
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
I have the B&C oil filter angle adapter and as Jesse posted just punch a
hole in the filter and wait ten - twenty minutes and the filter will
drain
with no mess when removing.
The angle adapter and quick drain makes changing oil a piece of cake.
Mark (N410MR)
>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
>Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 09:33:56 -0500
>
>But if you don't have room for the milk jug underneath it is really
hard to
>keep clean. It can help having a plastic bag, but then the filter is
>harder
>to remove. Either way, the angle adapter is SWEET to work with. Punch
a
>couple of holes in the filter, wait 10 minutes or so, and the filter
comes
>right off dry as a bone. Having done both, I would definitely go with
the
>adapter. The Mattituck engine came with an adapter that isn't B&C's.
I
>wonder how much they sell it for.
>
>
>Do not archive.
>
>
>Jesse Saint
>
>I-TEC, Inc.
>
>HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
>
>HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
>
>W: 352-465-4545
>
>C: 352-427-0285
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>GenGrumpy@aol.com
>Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:17 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
>
>
>My 2 cents on this issue.
>
>
>Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a very
>simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
>
>
>Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
>
>
>Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one side
with
>a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from overflowing).
>
>
>Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets the
>engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that the
oil
>will drip directly into the milk carton).
>
>
>Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter drain
into
>the milk carton.
>
>
>In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will drain
95%
>of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining, remove the
milk
>carton and take the filter off. You will end up with a few spatters
below,
>but very easy to clean off.
>
>
>Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
>
>
>I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great
until
>the residual overflowed my available space.
>
>
>The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
>
>
>grumpy
>
>#40404
>
>
>In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
>bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
>
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late than
never I
>guess.
>
>First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter with a
>Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4" spacer.
>
>If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the vacuum
pad
>there is an interference issue with the inboard lower screw boss on the
>SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil filter adapter. I
strongly
>suspect that the interference issue would exist regardless of teh brand
of
>90 degree oil filter adapter. You have 2 solutions:
>
>1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs for
the
>vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the standard SD-20.
Don't
>recall exact price of the spacer kit, but it's $75-100. I have this
combo
>installed on my engine and can verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer
on
>the
>oil filter adapter will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
>
>2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which is
shorter
>than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking adapter" that
>rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft about 3/4". This
was
>their solution before the spacer above and is what Ed Hayden installed.
I
>don't know the cost.
>
>Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which wouldn't
have
>any interference issue but would cost more in addition to adding
weight,
>complexity and more hose connections.
>
>A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between the
>forward
>edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard upper mounting
bolt
>on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter adapter spacer is 1.4" and
I
>see that most others are 1.5".
>
>Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my engine. If
you
>look closely just to the right of the alternator and above the engine
mount
>tube you can see the bolt head in front of the screw boss on the
>alternator.
>This is the problem area.
>
>Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the above
shown.
>Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
>
>Bob
>RV-10 #40105
>
>
>"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
>"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
>"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
>"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
>"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution
>"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/
Navig
>ator?RV10-List
>
>11/28/2006
>3:22 PM
>
>--
>11/28/2006
>3:22 PM
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Shopping has everything on your holiday list. Get expert picks by
style,
age, and price. Try it!
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1&tcode=wlmtagline
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
AirWolf makes a remote filter system that mounts on the firewall. It
uses an adaptor that mounts on the accessory case with two lines that
run to and from the filter block. It's a pretty trick set up. The thing
to consider is if you want an additional couple of oil lines running
around under there.
Allen
Barrett's Place
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
My only objection to a remote filter is the extra hoses and connections
creating potential leak sources.
do not archive
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 30, 2006, at 9:28 AM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
See your 0.08 and raise you a 0.25. How about a remote mount filter?
:-)
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
I'll see your 4 cents and raise it another 4:
Avery has a gizmo with a hose clamp, an adopter and a hose that works
like Linn's. You punch the hole on top, attach the gizmo, turn the
filter with the hose facing down and out comes the oil into whatever jug
you have placed on the ground!
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 29, 2006, at 10:52 PM, linn Walters wrote:
I'll see our 2 cents and raise you 2 cents!!!
Use whatever container you can get under the filter. Use a center punch
and punch a hole in the side of the filter. Unscrew the filter 1/2
turn. Punch another hole in the filter and allow the filter to drain.
After the filter is empty, finish removing it and your 'catch basin'.
It'll make it an even cleaner job!!!
Linn
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
My 2 cents on this issue.
Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a very
simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one side
with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from overflowing).
Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets the
engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that the oil
will drip directly into the milk carton).
Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter drain
into the milk carton.
In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will drain
95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining, remove the
milk carton and take the filter off. You will end up with a few
spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great
until the residual overflowed my available space.
The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
grumpy
#40404
In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com> <mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late
than never I guess.
First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter
with a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4" spacer.
If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the
vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the inboard lower screw
boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil filter
adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue would exist
regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter adapter. You have 2
solutions:
1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement
studs for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the
standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit, but it's
$75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and can verify that
it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter will absolutely NOT
work with this combination.
2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which
is shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking
adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft about
3/4". This was their solution before the spacer above and is what Ed
Hayden installed. I don't know the cost.
Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which
wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in addition to
adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between
the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard upper
mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter adapter
spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are 1.5".
Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my
engine. If you look closely just to the right of the alternator and
above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in front of the
screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem area.
Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the
above shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
Bob
RV-10 #40105
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
o
ntribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
h
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
o
ntribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 28
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Hmmm
I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage red
boxes in arial combat!
Cheers
Les Kearney
Do no archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
I made it 10.6. Hopefully that good enough to be an RV-10 builder.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
A relative sent this to me..don't know if it's true, but fun to try. Can't
get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully that's good enough to be an
RV-10 pilot.
Good luck,
Sean Blair
#40225
Here's an interesting test:
Think you have fine eye hand coordination--try this.
The object of the game is to move the red block around without
getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls.
If you can go longer than 22 seconds you are phenomenal.
Reportedly, the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are
expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try!
http://tinyurl.com/56t9u
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.kitlog.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
www.aeroelectric.com
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Fighter pilot? |
I can assure you all that the USAF has no such requirement. However, I
actually sent this email around my fighter squadron last year. In my informa
l poll
it seems RV-10 builders have as much skill as F-15 pilots... at least as fa
r
as this game goes.
Jim McGrew
_www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 11/30/2006 10:33:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
kearney@shaw.ca writes:
Hmmm
I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage red
boxes in arial combat!
Cheers
Les Kearney
Do no archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
I made it 10.6. Hopefully that good enough to be an RV-10 builder.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
_jesse@itecusa.org_ (mailto:jesse@itecusa.org)
_www.itecusa.org_ (http://www.itecusa.org/)
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
____________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
A relative sent this to medon=99t know if it
=99s true, but fun to try. Can=99
t get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully that=99s good enoug
h to be an
RV-10 pilot.
Good luck,
Sean Blair
#40225
Here's an interesting test:
Think you have fine eye hand coordination--try this.
The object of the game is to move the red block around without
getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls.
If you can go longer than 22 seconds you are phenomenal.
Reportedly, the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are
expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try!
_http://tinyurl.com/56t9u_ (http://tinyurl.com/56t9u)
www.aeroelectric.com
_www.kitlog.com_ (http://www.kitlog.com/)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
_www.aeroelectric.com_ (http://www.aeroelectric.com/)
www.buildersbooks.com
www.kitlog.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
m/)
(http://www.buildersbooks.com/)
(http://www.homebuilthelp.com/)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List)
Message 30
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| Subject: | B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
Even neater if you already have the screw on filter adapter, the Airwolf
adapter plate simply screws on.
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:26 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
AirWolf makes a remote filter system that mounts on the firewall. It
uses an adaptor that mounts on the accessory case with two lines that
run to and from the filter block. It's a pretty trick set up. The thing
to consider is if you want an additional couple of oil lines running
around under there.
Allen
Barrett's Place
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
My only objection to a remote filter is the extra hoses and connections
creating potential leak sources.
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 30, 2006, at 9:28 AM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
See your 0.08 and raise you a 0.25. How about a remote mount filter?
:-)
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
I'll see your 4 cents and raise it another 4:
Avery has a gizmo with a hose clamp, an adopter and a hose that works
like Linn's. You punch the hole on top, attach the gizmo, turn the
filter with the hose facing down and out comes the oil into whatever jug
you have placed on the ground!
Rob Kermanj
Message 31
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"I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage red
boxes in arial combat!"
Arial combat????? wouldn't that make them Fonter pilots?
:)
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Fighter pilot? |
I made it to 18 seconds, Don't look at the red square look beyond it and se
e
the big picture, kind of like when you're scanning the sky for traffic. Whe
n
I was looking at the red square I couldn't get past 5 seconds.
Mdoyle
Rv-9A
On 11/30/06, JSMcGrew@aol.com <JSMcGrew@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I can assure you all that the USAF has no such requirement. However, I
> actually sent this email around my fighter squadron last year. In my
> informal poll it seems RV-10 builders have as much skill as F-15 pilots..
.
> at least as far as this game goes.
>
> Jim McGrew
> www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> In a message dated 11/30/2006 10:33:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> kearney@shaw.ca writes:
>
> Hmmm
>
>
> I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage red
> boxes in arial combat!
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
>
> Do no archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse Saint
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:46 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
>
>
> I made it 10.6. Hopefully that good enough to be an RV-10 builder.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Sean Blair
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:14 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
>
>
> A relative sent this to me=85=85don't know if it's true, but fun to try.
> Can't get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully that's good enough
to
> be an RV-10 pilot.
>
>
> Good luck,
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> #40225
>
>
> Here's an interesting test:
>
>
> Think you have fine eye hand coordination--try this.
>
>
> The object of the game is to move the red block around without
>
> getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls.
>
>
> If you can go longer than 22 seconds you are phenomenal.
>
> **
>
> * Reportedly, the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are*
>
> * expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try!*
>
> **
>
> * http://tinyurl.com/56t9u*
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *www.aeroelectric.com*
>
> *www.kitlog.com*
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *www.aeroelectric.com*
>
> *www.buildersbooks.com*
>
> *www.kitlog.com*
>
> *www.homebuilthelp.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> p://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.com
> ttp://www.kitlog.com/">www.kitlog.com
> ttp://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com
> ://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV10-List
> *
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
Message 33
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Never a dull moment on the list!
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
"I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage red
boxes in arial combat!"
Arial combat????? wouldn't that make them Fonter pilots?
:)
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
--
3:22 PM
--
3:22 PM
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Fighter pilot? |
Good one, Rick!
Rick wrote:
>
>
>"I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage red
>boxes in arial combat!"
>
>Arial combat????? wouldn't that make them Fonter pilots?
>
>:)
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>do not archive
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Fighter pilot? |
For your poll, I had a hard time getting to 10 seconds. :)
I guess that means I shouldn't do barrel rolls and loops in my spray can
primed, extra hole dimpled, no remote oiled, hot tunneled, homebrew
AHRS'd, 350HP turbo-charged RV-10.
-Sean #40303 (Still waiting for new house/plane factory to be built)
Sorry, punchy from not building for a few months, so do not archive
JSMcGrew@aol.com wrote:
> I can assure you all that the USAF has no such requirement. However, I
> actually sent this email around my fighter squadron last year. In my
> informal poll it seems RV-10 builders have as much skill as F-15
> pilots... at least as far as this game goes.
>
> Jim McGrew
> www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew <http://www.mit.edu/%7Ejsmcgrew>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> In a message dated 11/30/2006 10:33:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> kearney@shaw.ca writes:
>
> Hmmm
>
>
>
> I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to
> engage red boxes in arial combat!
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
>
>
> Do no archive
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse
> Saint
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:46 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
>
>
>
> I made it 10.6. Hopefully that good enough to be an RV-10 builder.
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Sean
> Blair
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:14 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
>
>
>
> A relative sent this to medont know if its true, but fun to
> try. Cant get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully thats
> good enough to be an RV-10 pilot.
>
>
>
> Good luck,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> #40225
>
>
> Here's an interesting test:
>
>
>
> Think you have fine eye hand coordination--try this.
>
>
>
> The object of the game is to move the red block around without
>
> getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls.
>
>
>
> If you can go longer than 22 seconds you are phenomenal.
>
> **
>
> * Reportedly, the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They
> are*
>
> * expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try!*
>
> **
>
> * http://tinyurl.com/56t9u*
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Stupid question revisted. |
Good point. How about one antenna and one installed radio and a back up
handheld. Less things sticking out of the airframe the better.
Thank you for the qoute on the switch.
John
>From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stupid question revisted.
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 18:02:07 -0800
>
>
>The reason that you use two antennas is that the switch if you use one
>antenna and two radios is $700+ and the second antenna is 85 if you go with
>a Bob Archer for the backup antenna.
>
>Bob K
>Wing HID installation. Two to three hours my hind end. LOL
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 9:15 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stupid question revisted.
>
>
>John,
>
>For my installation and the research that I have done (check the matronics
>aeroelectric list archives), I'm using two antennas with two radios -
>placed
>x-number of inches apart (I don't remember the magic number) because of the
>issue that you have mentioned. I'm actually placing one under the belly
>behind the main spar and the second one is foil tape in the windshield -
>thinking ground vs air communications.
>
>There are switches that allow for one antenna and two radios - to isolate
>the nontransmitting one's receiver circuits - but if you have an antenna
>failure - the second radio is useless.
>
>It depends on what you want...I have one of the switches that I mentioned
>in
>my avionics box - I think I got it from Bob Archer. I may use it
>eventually
>- for specific missions.
>
>Not saying right or wrong, just how I'm doing it and the basis for my
>decision
>
>Hope this helps,
>Ralph
>
>-----Original Message-----
> >From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> >Sent: Nov 29, 2006 11:35 AM
> >To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RV10-List: Stupid question revisted.
> >
> >
> >Okay, here is the trick. Label everything as a stupid question and get
>lots
> >of answers and all are done so with overwhelming kindness.
> >
> >Lets try again.
> >
> >1)Why are people placing two comm antennas.
> >
> >2)And when two antennas are placed, doesn't the nontransmitting one
> >interfere with the transmitting one. Something like putting two tuning
> >forks side by side and hiting one and the other starts humming too.
> >
> >Kindness only
> >
> >John G.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Bonding in HS stab nose ribs. |
Les,
You might want to look in the archives for this topic. I did this with the
VS and the HS nose ribs.
It really holds the skins in the correct place, and helps to prevent dings
while rivetting of those ribs. I made a special bucking bar the shape of
the airfoil in this location.
The bonding of th ribs requires assembly enough to allow the skins to be in
their correct shape while the FLEXIBLE EPOXY or PRO SEAL sets.
JOhn G.
>From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: A question for the finishing mavens
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 19:45:38 -0700
>
>
>Hi Tim
>
>Thanks for the advice - I really didn't want to replace a skin. I was
>hoping
>the Bondo solution etc would be acceptable. Anyway, Kearney's First Law of
>Aircraft Repair states:
>
>"There is a high probability of incurring a major problem whenever a
>smaller
>problem is being repaired. Probability for the purposes of this law is
>always unity".
>
>Therefore, leaving well enough alone is always a viable solution.
>
>Les Kearney
>RV10 # 40643 - On to the horizontal stab tomorrow.
>
>PS: I find your website to be invaluable. Many thanks.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:35 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: A question for the finishing mavens
>
>
>Paint won't cover it, but you'll be doing some filler on all of the
>dings anyway, and that will. Sounds like it's time for the next
>section. As for the extra dimple, stick a rivet in it, and later
>you can fill the rivet and it'll disappear.
>
>Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>do not archive
>
>
>Les Kearney wrote:
> > Hi
> >
> >
> >
> > I am have just finished my vertical stab and rudder. Along the way I
> > have had a few "oops moments" usually fixable. There have been a couple
> > that have left their mark sort of speak. These include:
> >
> >
> >
> > * An extra dimple where there should be none
> > * A couple of very small dents associated with riveting
> > * A very, very, very small "RV10 Vertical Stab Signature dent"
> >
> >
> >
> > My question for the finishing experts is "to what extent will painting
> > hide, cover up, make invisible minor imperfections arising from the
> > construction process"?
> >
> >
> >
> > Inquiring minds need to know ...
> >
> >
> >
> > Les Kearney
> >
> >
> >
> > RV10 # 40643 - On to the Horizontal Stab tomorrow!
> >
>
>
Message 38
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How much practice are you allowed?
If you are only allowed one time...I guess I am a transport guy. With a few
tries i am a fighter jock.
What do you fly if you don't want to kill people? Fie suppression...arial
bomber!!!! That's a good war.
JohnG.
>From: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 21:13:41 -0700
>
>A relative sent this to me..don't know if it's true, but fun to try. Can't
>get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully that's good enough to be an
>RV-10 pilot.
>
>
>Good luck,
>
>
>Sean Blair
>
>#40225
>
>
> Here's an interesting test:
>
>
> Think you have fine eye hand coordination--try this.
>
>
> The object of the game is to move the red block around without
>
> getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls.
>
>
> If you can go longer than 22 seconds you are phenomenal.
>
>
> Reportedly, the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are
>
> expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try!
>
>
> http://tinyurl.com/56t9u
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | LED light revisted. |
Deems,
Very helpful web site you have!
I've been to the archives and no help there. That search engine sure isn't
Google
Deems--Your web site gives a link to Jeff"s LED nav lights.
I don't see any contact info for Jeff on that site.
Second, what voltage are these lights(Your Nav lights). Will the 14v lights
run on 12v system?
I see so many LEDs that are either 14V or 28 volt. without revisiting the
12, 28 volt issue. What are people using if they are a 12V system to drive
a 14 volt LED lights or 28V lights.
Thanks,
JOhn G.
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fighter pilot? |
Ahh but I do remember a time when they engaged planes with a red star
and had to stay away from a certain the border. KABONG Do Not
Archive
PS: I've passed this on to at least a dozen pilots. A coupla are old
fighter types.
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Hmmm
I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage
red boxes in arial combat!
-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
A relative sent this to me..don't know if it's true, but fun to try.
Can't get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully that's good enough
to be an RV-10 pilot.
Good luck,
Sean Blair
#40225
http://tinyurl.com/56t9u
Message 41
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I'm getting ready to take the RV10 plunge and will be ordering my kit and tools
after Christmas just before the price increase takes effect.
I've heard nothing but good things about Shaun Isham and Bob Avery and their respective
companies. It appears that I can't go too wrong with either option.
I'm interested in getting a pnuematic squeezer and a DRDT-2 from the start.
One comment that Shaun made was to get the back riveting plate locally. He is
of the belief that the 3/8" plate that both he and Avery sells is not thick enough.
Not having done any back riveting before, I have no clue as to whom to believe.
Question 1: What are the recommedations for a plate for back riveting? is the
3/8" thick plate thick enough?
Question 2: any reason why I shouldn't purchase from either one of these vendors?
Or is it truly a flip of the coin?
thanks,
bob
Soon to be RV10 builder
N410BL
Message 42
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| Subject: | Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line |
For those using flexible hoses for the fuel lines what type of hose end fit
ting did you use at the fuel tank side. I am thinking of using a 60 deg ho
se end fitting and running the hose so that it has only one bend from the f
uselage to the fuel tank.=0A=0AThanks=0A=0ANiko=0A40188
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Fighter pilot? |
My building partner, ex- F-4 Wild Weasel fighter pilot, makes it easy to
identify & classify airplanes. They are either fighters or targets and some
of the fighters are targets too. KABONG Do Not Archive.
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> How much practice are you allowed?
>
> If you are only allowed one time...I guess I am a transport guy. With a
> few tries i am a fighter jock.
> What do you fly if you don't want to kill people? Fie suppression...arial
> bomber!!!! That's a good war.
>> http://tinyurl.com/56t9u
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: LED light revisted. |
You can contact Jeff Bordelon @ RV-7A@austin.rr.com ;they are 12/14V
and only draw a small amount of current (< 1 amp). Re 12V / 14V: I'm
definitely NOT the electron guru, and somebody else should jump in here
and provide a definitive answer, but they are essentially the same
system and operate from the same battery/alternator source. Battery
outputs 14.5 v when fully charged, there is some loss in the wiring due
to wire resistance etc. You may want to get Bob Nuckols book available
on his web site and subscribe to the Matronics aero-electric list as
well. Bob provides free consulting via the list on a time available
basis, Some of the stuff is more detailed than I want or care about, but
it is a very valuable resource. In his book he explains all about the
12/14v and 24/28v systems and why they are referred to the way they are.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
ps. if you contact Jeff, let him know he's got no contact info on the
LED page.
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> Deems,
>
> Very helpful web site you have!
>
> I've been to the archives and no help there. That search engine sure
> isn't Google
>
> Deems--Your web site gives a link to Jeff"s LED nav lights.
>
> I don't see any contact info for Jeff on that site.
>
> Second, what voltage are these lights(Your Nav lights). Will the 14v
> lights run on 12v system?
>
> I see so many LEDs that are either 14V or 28 volt. without revisiting
> the 12, 28 volt issue. What are people using if they are a 12V
> system to drive a 14 volt LED lights or 28V lights.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn G.
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line |
I used 45 degree fittings. Be aware that the fuel line will go
right past the vent tube from the tank. I don't know what would
happen with a different fitting for either hose length or the
way it would run past the vent tube. In my case with 45 degree
fittings it was nice in that the fuel line came up right next
to the vent tube but didn't quite touch it, so it was a very easy
thing to do to squirt in a gob of RTV between the two and create
a nice spot that keeps them separated and chafe free. A different
fitting may make it either much further away or make it try to
run right through the vent tube....but I have no idea for sure.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Niko wrote:
> For those using flexible hoses for the fuel lines what type of hose end
> fitting did you use at the fuel tank side. I am thinking of using a 60
> deg hose end fitting and running the hose so that it has only one bend
> from the fuselage to the fuel tank.
>
> Thanks
>
> Niko
> 40188
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Tool Questions |
Bob,
I used Cleaveland tools plate and it worked just fine, I believe it's 3/8" as well.
The hassel of hunting down the plate then getting it polished up is not worth
IMHO. FWIW, if the plate is not polished it will transfer any marks to your
skins.
It's more important to make sure the plate is solidly supported than the actual
thickness. A solid bench & top is a must. Good move on the pneumatic squeezer,
I wouldn't do it without one, others swear by their hand squeezer though. Avery
always provided good service, never used the other vendor you mentioned. Not
a whole lot of back riveting to be done really, but it's the most fun to do.
I did more back riveting with the dumbbell looking, 3lb bar from Avery to include
the entire top wing skins and tail cone.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Tool Questions |
Regarding the back riveting plate I think they probably meant 3/16", the
big issue with the back riveting plates that the tool guys sell is not
so much the thickness, but the length and width dimensions, because they
are relatively small approx 3-4 " by 8-10" it is too easy when back
riveting to not have the plate under the head of the rivet and that
makes for !@@$##@$ and ugly impressions in your pristine skins! If you
have a metal supply/scrap yard in your area, go to them and you will
probably be able to find a plate of 3/16 - 1/4" thick material that is
already cut, I found one about 16" x 20" which worked fine, Take your
belt sander to it and clean off any 'scale' or roughness, it will be a
lot cheaper than the tool guys plate and serve you better, I hear
Alexander's have one in their shop which is inlaid in a bench which is
even larger.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
back to sanding, filling, sanding.filling, sanding, ......................
rvmail@thelefflers.com wrote:
>
>I'm getting ready to take the RV10 plunge and will be ordering my kit and tools
after Christmas just before the price increase takes effect.
>
>I've heard nothing but good things about Shaun Isham and Bob Avery and their respective
companies. It appears that I can't go too wrong with either option.
I'm interested in getting a pnuematic squeezer and a DRDT-2 from the start.
>
>One comment that Shaun made was to get the back riveting plate locally. He is
of the belief that the 3/8" plate that both he and Avery sells is not thick enough.
>
>Not having done any back riveting before, I have no clue as to whom to believe.
>
>Question 1: What are the recommedations for a plate for back riveting? is the
3/8" thick plate thick enough?
>
>Question 2: any reason why I shouldn't purchase from either one of these vendors?
Or is it truly a flip of the coin?
>
>thanks,
>
>bob
>
>Soon to be RV10 builder
>N410BL
>
>
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: LED light revisted. |
The book is in the mail.
Thanks for the contact.
John
>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: LED light revisted.
>Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 11:33:22 -0700
>
>
>You can contact Jeff Bordelon @ RV-7A@austin.rr.com ;they are 12/14V and
>only draw a small amount of current (< 1 amp). Re 12V / 14V: I'm definitely
>NOT the electron guru, and somebody else should jump in here and provide a
>definitive answer, but they are essentially the same system and operate
>from the same battery/alternator source. Battery outputs 14.5 v when fully
>charged, there is some loss in the wiring due to wire resistance etc. You
>may want to get Bob Nuckols book available on his web site and subscribe to
>the Matronics aero-electric list as well. Bob provides free consulting via
>the list on a time available basis, Some of the stuff is more detailed than
>I want or care about, but it is a very valuable resource. In his book he
>explains all about the 12/14v and 24/28v systems and why they are referred
>to the way they are.
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>ps. if you contact Jeff, let him know he's got no contact info on the LED
>page.
>
>John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>>
>>Deems,
>>
>>Very helpful web site you have!
>>
>>I've been to the archives and no help there. That search engine sure isn't
>>Google
>>
>>Deems--Your web site gives a link to Jeff"s LED nav lights.
>>
>>I don't see any contact info for Jeff on that site.
>>
>>Second, what voltage are these lights(Your Nav lights). Will the 14v
>>lights run on 12v system?
>>
>>I see so many LEDs that are either 14V or 28 volt. without revisiting the
>>12, 28 volt issue. What are people using if they are a 12V system to
>>drive a 14 volt LED lights or 28V lights.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>JOhn G.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Tool Questions |
Don't forget that special RV10 elevator bucking bar(Cleaveland, I think)
used for backriveting the Tailcone. No complex curves on that tailcone mean
a long bar can hold about ten rivets at once, back rivet...shot then like
ducks in a pond.(maybe more like ducks with clipped wings)
I am not a hunter so I don't know if that made any sense.
John
>From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tool Questions
>Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 10:43:48 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
>
>
>Bob,
>
>I used Cleaveland tools plate and it worked just fine, I believe it's 3/8"
>as well. The hassel of hunting down the plate then getting it polished up
>is not worth IMHO. FWIW, if the plate is not polished it will transfer any
>marks to your skins.
>
>It's more important to make sure the plate is solidly supported than the
>actual thickness. A solid bench & top is a must. Good move on the pneumatic
>squeezer, I wouldn't do it without one, others swear by their hand squeezer
>though. Avery always provided good service, never used the other vendor you
>mentioned. Not a whole lot of back riveting to be done really, but it's the
>most fun to do. I did more back riveting with the dumbbell looking, 3lb bar
>from Avery to include the entire top wing skins and tail cone.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Tool Questions |
Bob;
I, like you, have not started but I have done extensive, and I mean
extensive research on tools. My advice, if you are looking to save money on
tools and get the same quality than shop around. If you want one stop
shopping than here is that feedback:
A well known RV builder, RV teacher and really sharp guy gave me the
following advice:
Tools. My advice is to steer clear of Isham's. I've heard too many things
about how he's selling NON-new stuff and calling it new. Talk to Fred
Kunkel at Clear Air Tools (http://www.clearairtools.com). Fred is THE MAN
when it comes to aircraft tools. Nobody knows pneumatic stuff like Fred
does. He has a kit now (he didn't used to offer a real kit) that is
extremely competitive. Better price when you add it all up than what Avery
offers. Again, I'm not finanically affiliated with Fred at all. Just
calling it like I see it. I recommend buying a kit from either Fred or
Avery. You won't be disappointed either way there. My 2 cents is -- call
Fred regardless, though, and ask him for his RV builder tool kit pricing.
Shop around and I think you'll find his setup is pretty darn good. If I
were starting over, knowing what I know now, I'd order from Fred. Nothing
wrong with Avery's stuff either if that's the way you go.
I don't know how valid Isham's moral marketing is, but I will tell you I
have heard this from a few other "in the know" people. In his defense I have
also heard great feedback from people who have purchased from Isham's.
Cleveland has equally good tools as Avery, Brown tools has the cheapest
pneumatic squeezer with the respective 2'',3'', and 4'' yokes as well as an
air drill I highly recommend, Sioux 1412, Cleartools has a great squeezer
package deal as well, he (Fred @ cleartools) is great to talk to and will
give honest feedback telling you that you can buy from anyone regardless of
the time he will spend with you. The Yard Store and Brown tools have good
tools and are less expensive than any of the other vendors.
I myself will spend less than 2K and have the best tools, why? because I am
comparison shopping and buying everything that is the least (yet best)
quality from practically every vendor out there. Cleveland, for example, has
the best price on the 3M Deburring wheel right now, a while ago they had an
equally good deal on the Sioux drill.
Time is money but for me researching the tools also teaches me why I even
need each to start with and when I start the -10 in 2007 I will know the
right tool for each piece.
Best of success on this project!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: <rvmail@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tool Questions
>
> I'm getting ready to take the RV10 plunge and will be ordering my kit and
> tools after Christmas just before the price increase takes effect.
>
> I've heard nothing but good things about Shaun Isham and Bob Avery and
> their respective companies. It appears that I can't go too wrong with
> either option. I'm interested in getting a pnuematic squeezer and a
> DRDT-2 from the start.
>
> One comment that Shaun made was to get the back riveting plate locally.
> He is of the belief that the 3/8" plate that both he and Avery sells is
> not thick enough.
>
> Not having done any back riveting before, I have no clue as to whom to
> believe.
>
> Question 1: What are the recommedations for a plate for back riveting?
> is the 3/8" thick plate thick enough?
>
> Question 2: any reason why I shouldn't purchase from either one of these
> vendors? Or is it truly a flip of the coin?
>
> thanks,
>
> bob
>
> Soon to be RV10 builder
> N410BL
>
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict |
So does NAPA!
Linn
do not archive
BPA wrote:
> AirWolf makes a remote filter system that mounts on the firewall. It
> uses an adaptor that mounts on the accessory case with two lines that
> run to and from the filter block. It's a pretty trick set up. The
> thing to consider is if you want an additional couple of oil lines
> running around under there.
>
>
>
> Allen
>
> Barrett's Place
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:51 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
>
>
>
> My only objection to a remote filter is the extra hoses and
> connections creating potential leak sources.
>
>
>
> do not archive
>
> Rob Kermanj
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 30, 2006, at 9:28 AM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>
> See your 0.08 and raise you a 0.25. How about a remote mount filter? :-)
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: B&C SD-20 and Oil Filter Adapter Final Verdict
>
> I'll see your 4 cents and raise it another 4:
>
>
>
> Avery has a gizmo with a hose clamp, an adopter and a hose that works
> like Linn's. You punch the hole on top, attach the gizmo, turn the
> filter with the hose facing down and out comes the oil into whatever
> jug you have placed on the ground!
>
>
>
>
>
> Rob Kermanj
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 29, 2006, at 10:52 PM, linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> I'll see our 2 cents and raise you 2 cents!!!
> Use whatever container you can get under the filter. Use a center
> punch and punch a hole in the side of the filter. Unscrew the filter
> 1/2 turn. Punch another hole in the filter and allow the filter to
> drain. After the filter is empty, finish removing it and your 'catch
> basin'. It'll make it an even cleaner job!!!
> Linn
>
> GenGrumpy@aol.com <mailto:GenGrumpy@aol.com> wrote:
>
> My 2 cents on this issue.
>
>
>
> Given the highway robbery B&C wanted for their adapter, I found a very
> simple solution to changing my oil filter on the first try.
>
>
>
> Take a plastic milk carton of the half gallon size.
>
>
>
> Eyeball it, then cut off about 1/4 of the bottom end, leaving one side
> with a 1/2 inch side rail on the 3 sides (keeps oil from overflowing).
>
>
>
> Place the cut open end up underneath the oil filter where it meets the
> engine block (there is room to slide it slightly forward so that the
> oil will drip directly into the milk carton).
>
>
>
> Crack open the filter a bit and let the residual from the filter drain
> into the milk carton.
>
>
>
> In about 10 minutes, as you slowly back the filter off, you will drain
> 95% of the oil into the milk carton. When it stops draining, remove
> the milk carton and take the filter off. You will end up with a few
> spatters below, but very easy to clean off.
>
>
>
> Works like a champ, and cost is zilch (assuming you drink milk!)
>
>
>
> I did my first one with an empty oil container, and it worked great
> until the residual overflowed my available space.
>
>
>
> The milk carton mod works like a champ and it didn't cost a thing!
>
>
>
> grumpy
>
> #40404
>
>
>
> In a message dated 11/29/2006 9:03:07 PM Central Standard Time,
> bob.condrey@baesystems.com <mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.com> writes:
>
>
> I'm delinquent posting results of this combo, but better late than
> never I guess.
>
> First, if you want to use the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter
> with a Lycoming 540 engine on an RV-10, you also need their 1.4"
> spacer.
>
> If you want to additionally use the B&C SD-20 alternator on the
> vacuum pad there is an interference issue with the inboard lower
> screw boss on the SD-20 and the upper inboard corner of the oil
> filter adapter. I strongly suspect that the interference issue
> would exist regardless of teh brand of 90 degree oil filter
> adapter. You have 2 solutions:
>
> 1) B&C has a 3/4" spacer kit that also contains replacement studs
> for the vacuum pad and a replacement shear coupling for the
> standard SD-20. Don't recall exact price of the spacer kit, but
> it's $75-100. I have this combo installed on my engine and can
> verify that it works. The 2.5" spacer on the oil filter adapter
> will absolutely NOT work with this combination.
>
> 2) There is another version of the SD-20 called an SD-20S which is
> shorter than the standard SD-20. They sell this with a "clocking
> adapter" that rotates the alternator 45 degrees and moves is aft
> about 3/4". This was their solution before the spacer above and
> is what Ed Hayden installed. I don't know the cost.
>
> Of course, you could also install a remote oil filter which
> wouldn't have any interference issue but would cost more in
> addition to adding weight, complexity and more hose connections.
>
> A word of caution - clearance is only about 1/8" (.125") between
> the forward edge of the SD-20 inboard lower screw boss and inboard
> upper mounting bolt on the oil filter adapter. B&C's oil filter
> adapter spacer is 1.4" and I see that most others are 1.5".
>
> Attached picture shows the combo (#1 above) installed on my
> engine. If you look closely just to the right of the alternator
> and above the engine mount tube you can see the bolt head in front
> of the screw boss on the alternator. This is the problem area.
>
> Last time I was on their web site B&C didn't have any of the above
> shown. Bill is the guy to talk to at B&C.
>
> Bob
> RV-10 #40105
>
>
>
>
>
>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
>
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>
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>
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>
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>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
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>
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>
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>
>
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>href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 52
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I used both the plate that came with my tool kit plus one (actually two
I made myself). The one that came with the kit I used to set rivets on
the rudder stiffners because it was easier to move the plate around than
the skin. When I did the rudder trailing edge, I used the ones I made
out of 2"x36"x3/16 steel pieces that I bought at Home Depot. I polished
one side and countersunk them in-line into the edge of my work table.
Worked just fine when I set those double-flush rivets.
I also have the DRDT-2 and a pneumatic squeezer. Both highly
recommended. I also have the Cleaveland "Main Squeeze" hand-squeezer.
It works well and is faster to setup than the pneumatic. In fact I was
originally going to forgo the pneumatic until I went to squeeze my first
4-7 rivet. Let's just say I had about a 4-day work stoppage until the
pneumatic arrived.
Todd
#40631
Final drilling the HS skins
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 1:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tool Questions
I'm getting ready to take the RV10 plunge and will be ordering my kit
and tools after Christmas just before the price increase takes effect.
I've heard nothing but good things about Shaun Isham and Bob Avery and
their respective companies. It appears that I can't go too wrong with
either option. I'm interested in getting a pnuematic squeezer and a
DRDT-2 from the start.
One comment that Shaun made was to get the back riveting plate locally.
He is of the belief that the 3/8" plate that both he and Avery sells is
not thick enough.
Not having done any back riveting before, I have no clue as to whom to
believe.
Question 1: What are the recommedations for a plate for back riveting?
is the 3/8" thick plate thick enough?
Question 2: any reason why I shouldn't purchase from either one of
these vendors? Or is it truly a flip of the coin?
thanks,
bob
Soon to be RV10 builder
N410BL
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: A question about the QB fuselage |
I would not get a QB fuse again as the standard on mine was very poor
with lots of items being redone.
Chris 388
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Tool Questions |
John,
That special "elevator" bucking bar is, in my really humble opinion here, ESSENTIAL
for doing the fuselage forward section...of course sombody will chime in
about how they modified a fingernail clipper for that part and it worked just
as good....Buy it, use it, love it!!!
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 55
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| Subject: | Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line |
Niko:
The 60deg fittings won't fit in the tunnel when you mount them to the fuel
valve. I bought banjo fittings from Andair www.andair.co.uk, and attached
864 hose ends from A/S (about$15 each). Andair also offers a 90deg fitting
that goes on the valve housing, however, I like the flexibility of the banjo
fitting better.
Steve Mills
RV-10 40486 Slow-build
Naperville, Illinois
finishing fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Niko
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 12:22 PM
To: Matronics
Subject: RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
For those using flexible hoses for the fuel lines what type of hose end
fitting did you use at the fuel tank side. I am thinking of using a 60 deg
hose end fitting and running the hose so that it has only one bend from the
fuselage to the fuel tank.
Thanks
Niko
40188
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line |
Steve, are you flying yet with the Banjo fitting? I wanted to
consider it but the delivery and cost got me wondering, along
with the fear that the flow might not be as good thru
that fitting as a smooth AN elbow on a hose. I am just wondering
if you're seeing any flow related issues like cavitation or
restriction if you're flying. If not, that would be a great
way to hook the valve up too.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
millstees@ameritech.net wrote:
> Niko:
>
> The 60deg fittings won't fit in the tunnel when you mount them to the
> fuel valve. I bought banjo fittings from Andair www.andair.co.uk
> <http://www.andair.co.uk>, and attached 864 hose ends from A/S (about$15
> each). Andair also offers a 90deg fitting that goes on the valve
> housing, however, I like the flexibility of the banjo fitting better.
>
>
> Steve Mills
> RV-10 40486 Slow-build
> Naperville, Illinois
> finishing fuselage
> Do Not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Niko
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 30, 2006 12:22 PM
> *To:* Matronics
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
>
> For those using flexible hoses for the fuel lines what type of hose
> end fitting did you use at the fuel tank side. I am thinking of
> using a 60 deg hose end fitting and running the hose so that it has
> only one bend from the fuselage to the fuel tank.
>
> Thanks
>
> Niko
> 40188
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 57
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| Subject: | A question about the QB fuselage |
Hmmm
That is not good news. Are the QB wings any better?
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
Darcy
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
I would not get a QB fuse again as the standard on mine was very poor with
lots of items being redone.
Chris 388
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: A question about the QB fuselage |
Wings were perfect!
Chris 388
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line |
Thanks for the reply Steve. I was actually wondering about the other end o
f the hose, the one that connects to the fuel tank.=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A
=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "millstees@ameritech.net" <millstees
@ameritech.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Thursday, November 30
, 2006 4:04:00 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side o
f Fuel Line=0A=0A=0ANiko:=0A =0AThe 60deg fittings won't fit in the tunnel
when you mount them to the fuel valve. I bought banjo fittings from Andair
www.andair.co.uk, and attached 864 hose ends from A/S (about$15 each). An
dair also offers a 90deg fitting that goes on the valve housing, however, I
like the flexibility of the banjo fitting better.=0A =0ASteve Mills=0ARV-1
0 40486 Slow-build=0ANaperville, Illinois=0Afinishing fuselage=0ADo Not Arc
hive=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@matroni
cs.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Niko=0ASen
t: Thursday, November 30, 2006 12:22 PM=0ATo: Matronics=0ASubject: RV10-Lis
t: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line=0A=0A=0AFor those using flexi
ble hoses for the fuel lines what type of hose end fitting did you use at t
he fuel tank side. I am thinking of using a 60 deg hose end fitting and ru
nning the hose so that it has only one bend from the fuselage to the fuel t
ank.=0A =0AThanks=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0Ahref="http://www.aeroelectri
c.com">www.aeroelectric.com=0Ahref="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.bui
ldersbooks.com=0Ahref="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com=0Ahref="ht
tp://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com=0Ahref="http://www.matr
onics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
====
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line |
Thanks for the info Tim. Did you wait until the wing intallation section t
o mount the hose end fitting that goes to the fuel tank? I think this way
I can ensure that I got the hose length right.=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A--
--- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>=0ATo: rv10-lis
t@matronics.com=0ASent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 1:37:56 PM=0ASubject: R
e: RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line=0A=0A=0A--> RV10-L
ist message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>=0A=0AI used 45 degree fit
tings. Be aware that the fuel line will go=0Aright past the vent tube from
the tank. I don't know what would=0Ahappen with a different fitting for e
ither hose length or the=0Away it would run past the vent tube. In my case
with 45 degree=0Afittings it was nice in that the fuel line came up right n
ext=0Ato the vent tube but didn't quite touch it, so it was a very easy=0At
hing to do to squirt in a gob of RTV between the two and create=0Aa nice sp
ot that keeps them separated and chafe free. A different=0Afitting may mak
e it either much further away or make it try to=0Arun right through the ven
t tube....but I have no idea for sure.=0A=0ATim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flyi
ng=0Ado not archive=0A=0A=0ANiko wrote:=0A> For those using flexible hoses
for the fuel lines what type of hose end =0A> fitting did you use at the fu
el tank side. I am thinking of using a 60 =0A> deg hose end fitting and ru
nning the hose so that it has only one bend =0A> from the fuselage to the f
===================
Message 61
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| Subject: | Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line |
Tim:
Not flying yet. I'am just now installing the fitting, however, they really
look great, and I really can't forsee any cavitation problems, the bend is
very similar to a 90deg fitting. I am installing an Andair duplex fuel
valve to accomodate the return line on the Eggenfellner engine I am
installing, and it is larger than what you "Lycos" install. My engine
arrives in about 6 weeks, and I will install it shortly thereafter, and I
will know more about the fittings then.
Steve Mills
RV-10 40486 Slow-build
Naperville, Illinois
finishing fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
Steve, are you flying yet with the Banjo fitting? I wanted to
consider it but the delivery and cost got me wondering, along
with the fear that the flow might not be as good thru
that fitting as a smooth AN elbow on a hose. I am just wondering
if you're seeing any flow related issues like cavitation or
restriction if you're flying. If not, that would be a great
way to hook the valve up too.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
millstees@ameritech.net wrote:
> Niko:
>
> The 60deg fittings won't fit in the tunnel when you mount them to the
> fuel valve. I bought banjo fittings from Andair www.andair.co.uk
> <http://www.andair.co.uk>, and attached 864 hose ends from A/S (about$15
> each). Andair also offers a 90deg fitting that goes on the valve
> housing, however, I like the flexibility of the banjo fitting better.
>
>
> Steve Mills
> RV-10 40486 Slow-build
> Naperville, Illinois
> finishing fuselage
> Do Not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Niko
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 30, 2006 12:22 PM
> *To:* Matronics
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
>
> For those using flexible hoses for the fuel lines what type of hose
> end fitting did you use at the fuel tank side. I am thinking of
> using a 60 deg hose end fitting and running the hose so that it has
> only one bend from the fuselage to the fuel tank.
>
> Thanks
>
> Niko
> 40188
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>
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>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line |
Yep, that's what happened that caused me not to use the conductive
teflon lines. Those would be ideal, but I couldn't terminate them
myself. So, I cut the hoses a little long and didn't install the
tank end fittings until I mated the wings to get the proper length.
I tried to make them just a tiny bit long in case I messed up the
end of the hose and had to shorten in 1/4" one or two times
redoing it. It wasn't as fun to do on the plane, but it did
work fine. I probably could have yanked the line and put the
fitting on. But, that's how the length came out right.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Niko wrote:
> Thanks for the info Tim. Did you wait until the wing intallation
> section to mount the hose end fitting that goes to the fuel tank? I
> think this way I can ensure that I got the hose length right.
>
> Niko
> 40188
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 1:37:56 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
>
>
> I used 45 degree fittings. Be aware that the fuel line will go
> right past the vent tube from the tank. I don't know what would
> happen with a different fitting for either hose length or the
> way it would run past the vent tube. In my case with 45 degree
> fittings it was nice in that the fuel line came up right next
> to the vent tube but didn't quite touch it, so it was a very easy
> thing to do to squirt in a gob of RTV between the two and create
> a nice spot that keeps them separated and chafe free. A different
> fitting may make it either much further away or make it try to
> run right through the vent tube....but I have no idea for sure.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Niko wrote:
> > For those using flexible hoses for the fuel lines what type of hose end
> > fitting did you use at the fuel tank side. I am thinking of using a 60
> > deg hose end fitting and running the hose so that it has only one bend
> > from the fuselage to the fuel tank.
> >
> > Thanks
> > sp; November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
> _"http://www.aeroelectric.com/" target=_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/"
> target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.csp; * HomebuiltHELP
> http://www.matronics.comsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>
> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 63
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F-16 guy here... Only 16 seconds... Don't tell the Air Force or they may
send me to Eagles... :-)
John
#40208 Wings on hold during move
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
I can assure you all that the USAF has no such requirement. However, I
actually sent this email around my fighter squadron last year. In my
informal poll it seems RV-10 builders have as much skill as F-15 pilots...
at least as far as this game goes.
Jim McGrew
www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 11/30/2006 10:33:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
kearney@shaw.ca writes:
Hmmm
I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage red
boxes in arial combat!
Cheers
Les Kearney
Do no archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
I made it 10.6. Hopefully that good enough to be an RV-10 builder.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
A relative sent this to me..don't know if it's true, but fun to try. Can't
get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully that's good enough to be an
RV-10 pilot.
Good luck,
Sean Blair
#40225
Here's an interesting test:
Think you have fine eye hand coordination--try this.
The object of the game is to move the red block around without
getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls.
If you can go longer than 22 seconds you are phenomenal.
Reportedly, the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are
expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try!
http://tinyurl.com/56t9u
www.aeroelectric.com
www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com/>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
www.buildersbooks.com
www.kitlog.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.com
ttp://www.kitlog.com/">www.kitlog.com
ttp://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List
__________ NOD32 1894 (20061130) Information __________
Message 64
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| Subject: | Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using Nut |
plates
No problem now, perfectly clear. Didn't get the part about the inside and
outside of the fiberglass not being parallel but got it now.
Thanks Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using
Nut plates
--> <recapen@earthlink.net>
Bill,
I don't have any photos of the offending nutplates on my plane as I have
fixed them - I'll try to take a couple of my second VS top cap (I have a
VOR/GS/ILS antenna up there and the second cap is for when I take it off -
special missions) which still has a couple of these offensive buggers.
Essentially what happens is the inside of the fiberglass is not parallel to
the outside of the fiberglass/gelcoat - resulting in the nutplate being
installed (from the inside) not parallel to the outside. This causes the
screw to go in crooked - one side of the screw (side being relative to the
ears of the nutplate being on the ends) will stick out and the other side
will be recessed.
Try clecoing in the nutplate and see how the screw sits when you put it in a
bit. If the top of the screw is parallel to the gelcoat flange as viewed
from the end, you're all right. Otherwise, you'll see it.
I'll try to remember to take a couple of pics this weekend so you can
visualize since I probably haven't explained it better the second
time............
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Schlatterer <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
>Sent: Nov 29, 2006 8:54 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings
>Using Nut plates
>
>Ralph, I am having trouble visualizing this. Can you explain a little
>more or maybe a pix?
>
>"The thing to be careful of is having the nutplates perpendicular to
>the edge...or the screws will be crooked."
>
>Thanks Bill S
>Ark 7a engine
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E.
>Capen
>Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:25 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings
>Using Nut plates
>
>
>I just did mine using nutplates. I used soft rivets to set the
>nutplates with.
>
>The thing to be careful of is having the nutplates perpendicular to the
>edge...or the screws will be crooked.
>
>Two ways to do this that I know of:
>
>Glass in a plate of aluminum at the correct angle (you could have the
>nutplates set in the aluminum prior to glassing - but I wouldn't) Bend
>the ears of the nutplate so they can go in fulsh to the surface and the
>threads end up at the correct angle.
>
>Been there done that...last weekend!
>
>Ralph
>RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 finishing up a million little things
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Patrick Pulis <mailto:patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:13 PM
>Subject: RV10-List: Attachment of Fibreglass Empennage Fairings Using
>Nut plates
>
>
>Could anyone please tell me if they have opted to use nut plates when
>installing the fibreglass elevator and rudder fairings in lieu of pop
>rivets to allow future removal with ease?
>
>If anyone out there has used nut plates, can these be glassed into
>place in lieu of using flush rivets to attach the nut plates to the
>fibreglass fairings. Likewise has anyone attached nut plates to the
>wing tip fairings using glass in lieu of rivets?
>
>Regards
>
>PATRICK PULIS
>Adelaide, South Australia
>RV-10 #40299
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>
>href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>
>href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
>
>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>href=
>"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
>/Navi
>gator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 65
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You're probably write!
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
"I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage red
boxes in arial combat!"
Arial combat????? wouldn't that make them Fonter pilots?
:)
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 66
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| Subject: | A question about the QB fuselage |
My QB fuse and wings look great. I am #409 but I delayed receipt of both
for 5-6 months. I think I delayed receipt of my empannage kit too. My QB
stuff arrived I think in Feb or March of '06.
I have no problem with either and I am an anal type.
JOhn G.
>From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
>Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 16:05:22 -0700
>
>Hmmm
>
>
>That is not good news. Are the QB wings any better?
>
>
>Inquiring minds need to know ...
>
>
>Les Kearney
>
>RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
>Darcy
>Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 1:24 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
>
>
>I would not get a QB fuse again as the standard on mine was very poor with
>lots of items being redone.
>
>
>Chris 388
>
>
Message 67
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| Subject: | Re: A question about the QB fuselage |
John have you started work on it??? Mine looked great to until I started
working on it. For instance the gear mounts were miss drilled big time
meaning hours of work to put larger bolts in. Also check the bolts in the
spars. Are they the correct ones?? Now lets not even talk about the baggage
door area!! I suppose I spent about 3 days fixing things ...no big deal
except for the gear mounts!!
Again my wings were perfect!
I am a second time builder so just telling you my opinion. If I was to build
again I would do a flat pack fuse and QB wings.
Regards Chris
Message 68
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| Subject: | Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line |
Steve,
Finally someone brave enough to talk about an eggenfellner engine.
Are you putting both batteries on the firewall?
Are you using an Andair valve with an extension to keep the fuel line from
climbing up from the bottom of the tunnel or just making arcs in the fuel
line to reach up to the valves' high position.
You have the turbo version correct?
It sure is amazing to see the amount of work Jan did on the web page to help
with install, electrical, motor, prop, etc.
I got a lot of reading to do.
John G.
>From: <millstees@ameritech.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
>Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 17:47:21 -0600
>
>
>Tim:
>
>Not flying yet. I'am just now installing the fitting, however, they really
>look great, and I really can't forsee any cavitation problems, the bend is
>very similar to a 90deg fitting. I am installing an Andair duplex fuel
>valve to accomodate the return line on the Eggenfellner engine I am
>installing, and it is larger than what you "Lycos" install. My engine
>arrives in about 6 weeks, and I will install it shortly thereafter, and I
>will know more about the fittings then.
>
>Steve Mills
>RV-10 40486 Slow-build
>Naperville, Illinois
>finishing fuselage
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 4:28 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
>
>
>
>Steve, are you flying yet with the Banjo fitting? I wanted to
>consider it but the delivery and cost got me wondering, along
>with the fear that the flow might not be as good thru
>that fitting as a smooth AN elbow on a hose. I am just wondering
>if you're seeing any flow related issues like cavitation or
>restriction if you're flying. If not, that would be a great
>way to hook the valve up too.
>
>Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>do not archive
>
>
>millstees@ameritech.net wrote:
> > Niko:
> >
> > The 60deg fittings won't fit in the tunnel when you mount them to the
> > fuel valve. I bought banjo fittings from Andair www.andair.co.uk
> > <http://www.andair.co.uk>, and attached 864 hose ends from A/S (about$15
> > each). Andair also offers a 90deg fitting that goes on the valve
> > housing, however, I like the flexibility of the banjo fitting better.
> >
> >
> > Steve Mills
> > RV-10 40486 Slow-build
> > Naperville, Illinois
> > finishing fuselage
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Niko
> > *Sent:* Thursday, November 30, 2006 12:22 PM
> > *To:* Matronics
> > *Subject:* RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
> >
> > For those using flexible hoses for the fuel lines what type of hose
> > end fitting did you use at the fuel tank side. I am thinking of
> > using a 60 deg hose end fitting and running the hose so that it has
> > only one bend from the fuselage to the fuel tank.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Niko
> > 40188
> >
> > *
> >
> > href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> > href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> > href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
> > href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> >
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
>"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
>gator?RV10-List
> >
> > *
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
Message 69
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Took me 5 tries to get to keep my job. All that F-16, F-117(okay that one
doesn't really count) & F/A-18 time must have paid off, of course now I'm
relegated to the mighty AT-38C so maybe I can move back up in the world with
my 22 seconds. As mentioned though, at least it's not the Eagle :-) !
Marcus
40286, just passed 100hr TT - having too much fun to bother paining it!
(spending all my paint money on gas isn't helping either)
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Erickson
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
F-16 guy here... Only 16 seconds... Don't tell the Air Force or they may
send me to Eagles... :-)
John
#40208 Wings on hold during move
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
I can assure you all that the USAF has no such requirement. However, I
actually sent this email around my fighter squadron last year. In my
informal poll it seems RV-10 builders have as much skill as F-15 pilots...
at least as far as this game goes.
Jim McGrew
www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 11/30/2006 10:33:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
kearney@shaw.ca writes:
Hmmm
I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage red
boxes in arial combat!
Cheers
Les Kearney
Do no archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
I made it 10.6. Hopefully that good enough to be an RV-10 builder.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
A relative sent this to me..don't know if it's true, but fun to try. Can't
get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully that's good enough to be an
RV-10 pilot.
Good luck,
Sean Blair
#40225
Here's an interesting test:
Think you have fine eye hand coordination--try this.
The object of the game is to move the red block around without
getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls.
If you can go longer than 22 seconds you are phenomenal.
Reportedly, the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are
expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try!
http://tinyurl.com/56t9u
www.aeroelectric.com
www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com/>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
www.buildersbooks.com
www.kitlog.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.com
ttp://www.kitlog.com/">www.kitlog.com
ttp://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
__________ NOD32 1894 (20061130) Information __________
Message 70
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| Subject: | A question about the QB fuselage |
Full QB is a fine option from my biased viewpoint. The nug work is mostly
done, and so are plenty of new experiences for you to get the full
experience. The only thing I've really missed out on is the fuel tank
pro-seal party, and since I had to do trailing edges and fuel senders and
quick drain fittings and etc. with pro-seal I consider myself "full
experienced" with using it even if I haven't checked that exact block.
Rob Wright
#392
QB Fuse with other areas yet to pro-seal!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
If they have a QB fuse option where they built the second half and the
builder did the first half, I am sure a lot of people would jump on it. If
you are going QB wings anyway, then I would say it is a matter of funds
available vs. cost. What is the lead time on the QB fuse anyway, compared
to the SB option?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
Hi
With my eye fixed on the Jan price increase for QB fuselage as well as the
lead time for same, I am pondering whether or not I should go QB for the
fuselage. Thus far I have been enjoying the build process and want to get
the "full experience". That being said, I am quietly wondering if there is
still enough left to do to make the QB option viable. Can anyone tell give
me an overview of what is left to do in the QB fuselage kit? I have seen a
QB fuselage at Van's and am wondering if I should just go with a slow build
instead.
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - On to the horizontal stab tomorrow!
Do not archive
www.aeroelectric.com
www.kitlog.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
www.aeroelectric.com
Message 71
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| Subject: | Re: Fighter pilot? |
Don't feel bad guys... the world needs Viper pilots, too!
Jim
Do not archive
In a message dated 11/30/2006 10:17:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
coop85@bellsouth.net writes:
Took me 5 tries to get to keep my job. All that F-16, F-117(okay that one
doesn=99t really count) & F/A-18 time must have paid off, of course n
ow I=99m
relegated to the mighty AT-38C so maybe I can move back up in the world wit
h my
22 seconds. As mentioned though, at least it=99s not the Eagle J !
Marcus
40286, just passed 100hr TT =93 having too much fun to bother paining
it!
(spending all my paint money on gas isn=99t helping either)
Do not archive
____________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Erickson
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
F-16 guy here... Only 16 seconds... Don't tell the Air Force or they may
send me to Eagles... :-)
John
#40208 Wings on hold during move
____________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
I can assure you all that the USAF has no such requirement. However, I
actually sent this email around my fighter squadron last year. In my inform
al poll
it seems RV-10 builders have as much skill as F-15 pilots... at least as fa
r
as this game goes.
Jim McGrew
_www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 11/30/2006 10:33:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
kearney@shaw.ca writes:
Hmmm
I guess the USAF is concerned about fighter pilots having to engage red
boxes in arial combat!
Cheers
Les Kearney
Do no archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
I made it 10.6. Hopefully that good enough to be an RV-10 builder.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
_jesse@itecusa.org_ (mailto:jesse@itecusa.org)
_www.itecusa.org_ (http://www.itecusa.org/)
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
____________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fighter pilot?
A relative sent this to medon=99t know if it
=99s true, but fun to try. Can=99
t get beyond 18 seconds on this myself. Hopefully that=99s good enoug
h to be an
RV-10 pilot.
Good luck,
Sean Blair
#40225
Here's an interesting test:
Think you have fine eye hand coordination--try this.
The object of the game is to move the red block around without
getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls.
If you can go longer than 22 seconds you are phenomenal.
Reportedly, the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are
expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try!
_http://tinyurl.com/56t9u_ (http://tinyurl.com/56t9u)
www.aeroelectric.com
_www.kitlog.com_ (http://www.kitlog.com/)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
_www.aeroelectric.com_ (http://www.aeroelectric.com/)
www.buildersbooks.com
www.kitlog.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.com
ttp://www.kitlog.com/">www.kitlog.com
ttp://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avig
ator?RV10-List
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chre
f="h
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
to
r?RV10-List
__________ NOD32 1894 (20061130) Information __________
This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
www.aeroelectric.com
www.kitlog.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
m/)
(http://www.buildersbooks.com/)
(http://www.homebuilthelp.com/)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List)
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
Message 72
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| Subject: | Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line |
Finally someone brave enough to talk about an eggenfellner engine.
They're all jealous.
Are you putting both batteries on the firewall?
Yes
Are you using an Andair valve with an extension to keep the fuel line from
climbing up from the bottom of the tunnel or just making arcs in the fuel
line to reach up to the valves' high position.
I'am installing it high, and letting the fuel pump do it's thing.
You have the turbo version correct?
Yes
It sure is amazing to see the amount of work Jan did on the web page to help
with install, electrical, motor, prop, etc.
You're right. however, I hope we see an update soon with all the changes in
the H-6
I got a lot of reading to do.
Don't we all !
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
Steve,
Finally someone brave enough to talk about an eggenfellner engine.
Are you putting both batteries on the firewall?
Are you using an Andair valve with an extension to keep the fuel line from
climbing up from the bottom of the tunnel or just making arcs in the fuel
line to reach up to the valves' high position.
You have the turbo version correct?
It sure is amazing to see the amount of work Jan did on the web page to help
with install, electrical, motor, prop, etc.
I got a lot of reading to do.
John G.
>From: <millstees@ameritech.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
>Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 17:47:21 -0600
>
>
>Tim:
>
>Not flying yet. I'am just now installing the fitting, however, they really
>look great, and I really can't forsee any cavitation problems, the bend is
>very similar to a 90deg fitting. I am installing an Andair duplex fuel
>valve to accomodate the return line on the Eggenfellner engine I am
>installing, and it is larger than what you "Lycos" install. My engine
>arrives in about 6 weeks, and I will install it shortly thereafter, and I
>will know more about the fittings then.
>
>Steve Mills
>RV-10 40486 Slow-build
>Naperville, Illinois
>finishing fuselage
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 4:28 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
>
>
>
>Steve, are you flying yet with the Banjo fitting? I wanted to
>consider it but the delivery and cost got me wondering, along
>with the fear that the flow might not be as good thru
>that fitting as a smooth AN elbow on a hose. I am just wondering
>if you're seeing any flow related issues like cavitation or
>restriction if you're flying. If not, that would be a great
>way to hook the valve up too.
>
>Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>do not archive
>
>
>millstees@ameritech.net wrote:
> > Niko:
> >
> > The 60deg fittings won't fit in the tunnel when you mount them to the
> > fuel valve. I bought banjo fittings from Andair www.andair.co.uk
> > <http://www.andair.co.uk>, and attached 864 hose ends from A/S (about$15
> > each). Andair also offers a 90deg fitting that goes on the valve
> > housing, however, I like the flexibility of the banjo fitting better.
> >
> >
> > Steve Mills
> > RV-10 40486 Slow-build
> > Naperville, Illinois
> > finishing fuselage
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Niko
> > *Sent:* Thursday, November 30, 2006 12:22 PM
> > *To:* Matronics
> > *Subject:* RV10-List: Hose End Fitting on Wing Side of Fuel Line
> >
> > For those using flexible hoses for the fuel lines what type of hose
> > end fitting did you use at the fuel tank side. I am thinking of
> > using a 60 deg hose end fitting and running the hose so that it has
> > only one bend from the fuselage to the fuel tank.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Niko
> > 40188
> >
> > *
> >
> > href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> > href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> > href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
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Message 73
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| Subject: | Re: A question about the QB fuselage and tools |
Chris,
I can only comment on what I can see and attest to the quality of those
parts put together but not necessarily have I worked on them. All panels
that were held in place with a few half set blind rivets have been removed
and all the rivets that I can see are set well. The tail cone is riveted in
and I finally got hit with the idea that I better start getting a clear
vision of what I am going to do electrically and antenna wise down on paper.
For instance, I am under the current belief that despite training at night
flight when I was sixteen, I now do not believe it to be a very safe
undertaking. CC Glider pilots prepare for what we call outlandings, and I
have made a few, but we never have an engine that can quit, and we also have
much more time in glide. More importantly, we don't do an outlanding at
night. Get my point.
I am however wiring lights in because a 10 without them is just too
unsophisticated. Also, those flights where sunset time is approaching and
your 10-30 minutes behind schedule. In addition, I took some of this
electrical stuff in college physics, but aside from re-wiring a boat
trailer, I've forgotten. My "Aero Electric Connection" came in the mail
today and in addition to all the Eggenfellner information, I need to start
digesting this book rapidly. My question about the 12v and 14v LEDs today
showed my lack of understanding and in the short time I have had to look at
the book, the question has been answered. At least it shows I am eager to
know and learn.
Two comments I would like to make regarding tools: To Pascal, I understand
your desire to get the best price on tools, but I must comment that until
you start really using them, you will not realize what you have and more
importantly what you don't have. It will be frustrating to learn that the
order you placed yesterday or last week could have contained another item
that you now need. The wait for the next shipment is horrible. The extra
cost sucks too. Each time one orders from a different vender due to shopping
around, don't forget to add in the freight costs. It adds up and as all of
us probably have learned, don't ship expedighted and no deliveries on
Saturday...HELL NO!!! There goes all your savings from shopping around.
No amount of looking through the catalogs will tell you how to get at that
rivet with the gun, the bar or the pnuematic or how to make that dimple when
no tools you have will reach. Be careful while making allegation about
people's integrity when it is not your own experience. I do not know who
this Isham's tool supplier is, but I also think that you used text of
someone else who advised you, but you did not provide his name. It was just
really, really absolute. Like a "NO" slam dunk.
As Obewan would say, "Only Siths deal in absolutes"
I will just say that anyone who has not started building but has a good
understanding of their tool purchase(S), pick up this book and other that
will be needed and start digesting it. If you're a trust funder or retired
and can work on this project almost everyday...you're in a good place,
albiet it still is one hell of an undertaking. Full time work and family and
somethings got to give....Ya, I haven't watched Television for ten years now
so I have a handle on that. DVDs yah, but T.V. no, no, no!
The reward is no where as great, but the model planes(The really nice ones)
are more fun to build and you get done faster. Did I say that, good grief
Charlie Brown.....
Just feeling a little overwhelmed over the last few days.
No dentistry tomorrow, but wait, breakfast and make lunch for my daughter,
then 2 1/2hrs at my daughter's kindergarden/helping out teaching, then home
for an hour, then back down to her kindergarden for photos, then back over
the hill to pick up the Prius from it service...damm, it will be 2:30 or 3pm
by that time. Wife says don't worry she's going to grandmother tomorrow
night and saturday. I say, yah, but I have to sleep sometime after working
all week waking up at 5am. Start working on the plane at 3pm and go to 12pm
there's my nine hours. Don't fall asleep with a rivet gun in your hand.
And this was my relaxing/down time.
Signing off.
John G.
>From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: A question about the QB fuselage
>Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 14:10:07 +1100
>
>
>John have you started work on it??? Mine looked great to until I started
>working on it. For instance the gear mounts were miss drilled big time
>meaning hours of work to put larger bolts in. Also check the bolts in the
>spars. Are they the correct ones?? Now lets not even talk about the baggage
>door area!! I suppose I spent about 3 days fixing things ...no big deal
>except for the gear mounts!!
>
>Again my wings were perfect!
>
>I am a second time builder so just telling you my opinion. If I was to
>build again I would do a flat pack fuse and QB wings.
>
>Regards Chris
>
>
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