Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:05 AM - My wings arrived :-) (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 03:13 AM - Re: Eggenfellner (Mark Ritter)
3. 05:32 AM - Re: My wings arrived :-) (Rene Felker)
4. 05:36 AM - Re: My wings arrived :-) (bob.kaufmann)
5. 05:38 AM - Re: Eggenfellner (bob.kaufmann)
6. 06:24 AM - Re: Conduit (Jesse Saint)
7. 06:31 AM - Re: Conduit (Jesse Saint)
8. 06:40 AM - Re: FW: Re: This is umm?? This dead horse has three broken legs. (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
9. 06:41 AM - Re: Conduit (David McNeill)
10. 06:47 AM - Re: My wings arrived :-) (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
11. 06:54 AM - Re: Conduit (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
12. 06:56 AM - Re: Conduit (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
13. 07:05 AM - Following in Tim's tradition (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
14. 07:15 AM - Re: FW: Re: This is umm?? This dead horse has three broken legs. (John Gonzalez)
15. 07:26 AM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (John Gonzalez)
16. 07:35 AM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (Phillips, Jack)
17. 09:01 AM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
18. 09:24 AM - Hi Res Pics? ()
19. 09:42 AM - Lycoming reliability (Chris Hukill)
20. 09:44 AM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (John Gonzalez)
21. 10:17 AM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (Les Kearney)
22. 10:19 AM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (Jesse Saint)
23. 10:27 AM - Re: Conduit (Jesse Saint)
24. 11:42 AM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
25. 11:44 AM - Re: Lycoming reliability (John Gonzalez)
26. 12:14 PM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (John Gonzalez)
27. 12:31 PM - The difference in Teflon wire? (John Gonzalez)
28. 12:52 PM - Re: Hi Res Pics? (John Hasbrouck)
29. 01:05 PM - Yokes ()
30. 01:11 PM - Re: The difference in Teflon wire? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
31. 01:20 PM - Re: Yokes (Rick)
32. 01:23 PM - Aileron Counterbalance (Jeff Carpenter)
33. 01:31 PM - Re: Yokes (Michael Schipper)
34. 01:31 PM - Re: The difference in Teflon wire? (Tim Olson)
35. 01:35 PM - Re: Yokes (Stovall Todd Lt Col AF/A4RX)
36. 01:35 PM - Re: The difference in Teflon wire? (John Gonzalez)
37. 01:40 PM - Re: Aileron Counterbalance (Rick)
38. 02:13 PM - Re: Aileron Counterbalance (Jeff Carpenter)
39. 02:15 PM - Re: Yokes (Jesse Saint)
40. 02:39 PM - Re: The difference in Teflon wire? (linn Walters)
41. 02:47 PM - Re: Yokes (Sean Stephens)
42. 02:53 PM - Re: Yokes (Pascal)
43. 02:54 PM - Re: Yokes (Les Kearney)
44. 03:43 PM - Re: Re: Hi Res Pics? ()
45. 03:57 PM - Re: The difference in Teflon wire? (SteinAir, Inc.)
46. 04:09 PM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (Jesse Saint)
47. 04:28 PM - Re: The difference in Teflon wire? (N777TY)
48. 06:49 PM - Re: Re: The difference in Teflon wire? (Rick)
49. 07:59 PM - wing tip lens repair (Jay Rowe)
50. 08:20 PM - Re: wing tip lens repair (Tim Olson)
51. 08:27 PM - Re: Baggage door lock install later? (Rob Wright)
52. 08:32 PM - routing wires from rudder (Jay Wik)
53. 09:17 PM - Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Deems Davis)
54. 09:29 PM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Rick)
55. 09:41 PM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (David McNeill)
56. 09:41 PM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Deems Davis)
57. 09:44 PM - Re: The difference in Teflon wire? (John Gonzalez)
58. 10:09 PM - QB access into side panels below door rim. (John Gonzalez)
59. 10:29 PM - Re: wing tip lens repair (linn Walters)
60. 10:30 PM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Bill DeRouchey)
Message 1
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| Subject: | My wings arrived :-) |
I am so happy, yesterday my QB Wings arrived. I am now doing the inventory and
need to start building the wing stand. Having it shipped to Switzerland cost me
a fortune but I have no alternative.
Can you please advise if anything is missing or you know of better alternatives
in my "need to buy" list for the wings:
- Pitot tube (Gretz-1000)
- LED Nav Lights & Strobe (Jeff)
- Landing lights (Vans HID)
- Servos for A/P
Many Thanks
Michael
http:/www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (tailcone)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79510#79510
Message 2
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You are right - gather as much (good) information as you can and make a
decision. Was just wondering is there a point when you reach information
overload?
Mark (N410MR)
>From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Eggenfellner
>Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 18:02:01 -0700
>
>
>Hmmmm
>
>Mark, be careful what you ask for, .....
>
>Anyway, as the originator of this thread, what I wanted was info. I readily
>admit that I *knew* little about the issues related to engine selection. As
>a new builder that has a multitude of choices & decisions looming in the
>future, this is one I wanted to start considering sooner rather than later.
>
>I do say many, many thanks to all who commented. I have a much better
>appreciation of the factors / decision points / considerations involved.
>
>Cheers
>
>Les Kearney
>RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
>Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 5:33 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Eggenfellner
>
>
>All I want for Christmas is to have this subject go away. How many ways
>can
>
>you beat a dead horse?
>
>Mark (N410MR)
>
>
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Message 3
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| Subject: | My wings arrived :-) |
Aileron trim. AOA.
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
Finish....I hate fiberglass
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: My wings arrived :-)
<michael@wellenzohn.net>
I am so happy, yesterday my QB Wings arrived. I am now doing the inventory
and need to start building the wing stand. Having it shipped to Switzerland
cost me a fortune but I have no alternative.
Can you please advise if anything is missing or you know of better
alternatives in my "need to buy" list for the wings:
- Pitot tube (Gretz-1000)
- LED Nav Lights & Strobe (Jeff)
- Landing lights (Vans HID)
- Servos for A/P
Many Thanks
Michael
http:/www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (tailcone)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79510#79510
Message 4
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| Subject: | My wings arrived :-) |
Aileron trim if you are going to use it.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 2:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: My wings arrived :-)
<michael@wellenzohn.net>
I am so happy, yesterday my QB Wings arrived. I am now doing the inventory
and need to start building the wing stand. Having it shipped to Switzerland
cost me a fortune but I have no alternative.
Can you please advise if anything is missing or you know of better
alternatives in my "need to buy" list for the wings:
- Pitot tube (Gretz-1000)
- LED Nav Lights & Strobe (Jeff)
- Landing lights (Vans HID)
- Servos for A/P
Many Thanks
Michael
http:/www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (tailcone)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79510#79510
Message 5
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Ok now lets talk about rotaries. What do you think??? ROFLMAO. O<)))
Bob K
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Eggenfellner
You are right - gather as much (good) information as you can and make a
decision. Was just wondering is there a point when you reach information
overload?
Mark (N410MR)
>From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Eggenfellner
>Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 18:02:01 -0700
>
>
>Hmmmm
>
>Mark, be careful what you ask for, .....
>
>Anyway, as the originator of this thread, what I wanted was info. I readily
>admit that I *knew* little about the issues related to engine selection. As
>a new builder that has a multitude of choices & decisions looming in the
>future, this is one I wanted to start considering sooner rather than later.
>
>I do say many, many thanks to all who commented. I have a much better
>appreciation of the factors / decision points / considerations involved.
>
>Cheers
>
>Les Kearney
>RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
>Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 5:33 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Eggenfellner
>
>
>All I want for Christmas is to have this subject go away. How many ways
>can
>
>you beat a dead horse?
>
>Mark (N410MR)
>
>
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Message 6
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I my experience (and with the wiring that I had) three total conduits of
3/4" OD (ID just a hair bigger than the #2 Welding wire) was sufficient,
although I had 4 of them, two down each side. The welding wire took one by
itself. If you are going to run a ground wire from the battery forward,
then it would obviously take more space as Tim mentioned.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Conduit
I can't remember if it was 1.125 OD, or 1.05...I thought the latter.
Oh well. I can't say for sure that you won't have any weakening
there, and no I didn't ask. I have seen people drill 2 holes
there, instead of 1. I haven't fallen from the sky yet, but
I suppose it could happen any day. ;)
As for space left over, everything I have front to rear is run through
those conduits. The side that has the 2 #2 welding wire runs is pretty
darn full. Not much space left. (I do have about 4 wires extra run
through just for future use, and even a couple shielded ones on the
other side.) The opposite side has space left for more antenna wire or
other things, even though it has my huge (pinky sized) tygon static
tube running through it. I've heard that a pair of .75" ID lines
is just barely enough to manage in simpler installations, so I wanted
to guarantee a troublefree install.
I can't help make up your mind on what to do about the holes, but
I'm glad I have the space I do. Esp. on the Left side, there's
just not much room to run things.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
seanblair@adelphia.net wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to run conduit through the baqggage area and
> acquired the same stuff Tim Olsen is using. It looks great, lots of
> room, and should do the job. The concern I have is how large this is
> on the O.D. and will there be a significant weakening of the
> bulkheads from enlarging the holes to size?
>
> I believe the O.D. is 1.125 inches. I plan to run one on each side.
> Tim and others, after you installed this conduit, did you have alot
> of extra capacity left over? Could it be scaled down a little and
> still be sufficient?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair #40225
--
11:50 AM
--
4:07 PM
Message 7
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So, if you had 10 million dollars, you would be broke? I don't follow this
logic. Actually, as far as I am concerned, you can have the 10 million
dollars. "Give me neither poverty nor riches" is a motto I like to go by,
unlike the majority of people. I assume you mean that if you got 10 million
dollars it would be gone soon, which would mean you would be broke, which
would mean you wouldn't be able to fuel that viper jet.
Ah, the relaxed nonsense outside the engine war.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Conduit
Well, there's still no interior lights other than panel lights, and
no built-in electronic O2 system. Then a couple of wires for
battery bus uses if I ever find any (alarm system...). After
that it'll get tougher....maybe a hot water heater so my sink
has hot water, and then there's the flush toilet and vanity.
I still won't have a kitchen sink, but a shower would be nice
on the longer flights. ;)
You can tell the difference between me and some....I'm the guy
who says "well, it's only 1.5 extra pounds of wire". <G>
The thing I don't get about your dream is, why aren't YOU
flying that plane instead of the hired pilot? Man if I had
10 million dollars, I'd still be broke but I'd be flying
myself around in a Viper jet. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> Tim,
>
> You ran extra wires for FUTURE avionics? You already have things in
> that plane that myself and others have not even DREAMED about yet. I
> want in my FUTURE a hired pilot flying me, remotes in my hand watching
> videos/sateliteTV in the rear seat, drinking lots of cold imported beer
> and waiting to land at another exotic white sand beach. LOL
> OK........maybe I will put in a few 3 1/4 guages to make it IFR legal in
> a few years to fill up a few of the empty conduits before my FUTURE
> dream plane.
>
> Beats reading Eggenfeller posts,
>
> DEAN 40449
>
>
--
11:50 AM
--
4:07 PM
Message 8
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| Subject: | FW: RE: This is umm?? This dead horse has three broken |
legs.
This is a well thought out reply, and I have food for thought as I asked
Jan the same thing about the gear loading, and damping the pulses from
the engine. He explained that yes there are pulses, and there are
several ways to deal with them, the approach he takes is three fold.
First there is a custom designed light weight prop, this reduces the
overall inertia associated with a large mass spinning, that causes
loading on the gears. This is not to say there still is not loading,
just not as much because of the light turning mass, this also reduces
the typically gyroscopic effect from a standard prop, less weight less
precision acting on the spline to the gear box. In addition, Jan also
uses a three way spring system in the large torque dampener on the
engine, these springs take the mass of the fly wheel and counteract them
by opposite springs absorbing the pulses. The third approach, is to use
worm gears, further spreading the load across the face of the teeth. The
result is a very smooth running engine, that has the pulses reduced as
much as possible. There have been strain gauge tests done to monitor the
pulses, and the information is readily available from Jan.
In addition, it is not a twin turbo setup, rather a single stage that is
used to hold 32" up to 18K feet. There is some boost added down low, but
not enough to over stress the engine as your friend try's to imply.
Also Fuji industries, maker of the Subaru engines, got its start making
aircraft engines, and after the war had to convert to peace time
activities. What most people do not think about is that the Subaru
Legacy engines are a horizontally opposed 6, just like a Lycoming, so
they do share that design principle.
One of the big disparities is displacement, Lycoming is 540 cubic inch
engine, while the Subaru is 183 cubic inches. I do agree with your
friend stating that he wants max power available, we all agree on that.
But if we can get the same or slightly less HP in a smaller package, why
not? Less weight equals more useful load for the same HP. I know the
Subaru FWF package weighs 468 LBS total, includes engine mount, cooling,
radiators, sensors, wiring, oil, and Sensi prop etc. I also know the
Lycoming, configured in a like configuration, with Hartzell,
accessories, oil cooler, plumbing, and baffling etc will come in higher
than that, but no one has weighed a Lycoming FWF package. You can take
the base numbers, add them together and it is higher to start with, let
alone once it is all mounted.
So, long story short we still have to wait until next summer to get
performance numbers and see what it really is.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 12:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: RE: This is umm?? This dead horse has three
broken legs.
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Dj,
For those wanting more information, I feel I should share this with you.
Again, Eric Wolf runs Wolf Aerospace and is supposed to be currently
working
on a water cooled/direct drive Lyco replacement.
I need to touch basis with him and see whats up. I know, we have all
heard
the same story before.
Read below about the problem with reduction drives on internal
combustion
engines.
I imagine some of these gear wear spots could be minimized by using worm
drive gearing as it spreads the force out over a greater surface area.
Below
explains the problem well.
Even with this said Eggs are still not out of my thought process. Just
more
food for thought.
>From: "Eric Wolf" <Eric@wolfaerospace.com>
>To: "'John Gonzalez'" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>Subject: RE: This is umm??
>Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 11:30:51 -0800
>
>Hi John. The reason gear reductions are a problem in planes is that you
fly
>full throttle most of the time. Cars have a torque converter or a
clutch
>which absorbs the oscillations of the power pulses. The gears of a
airplane
>gear reduction are constantly beating each other up all the time. The
>propeller is fighting the air and is wanting to slow down and the
engine
>produces a power pulse every 90 degrees of revolution(8 cylinder)(180
for a
>4 cylinder). At the point of power the gears are smashed together, as
soon
>as the power pulse is over the gears slam each other the other way
because
>of the prop trying to stop due to wind resistance. Its quite nasty and
can
>set up a harmonic at certain rpm's that can destroy the reduction
drive.
>You
>know when you are drilling teeth and you get that sweet spot rpm and
>everything works well. But then you slow down while cutting and it gets
>rough. Same thing kind of. Its not optimum at all but Subaru does not
make
>an engine big enough to fly a plane. They are getting HP by revving up
the
>engine then reducing rpm with a gear drive.. The old Conti and Lyc
engines
>are tough but outdated. I am improving what already works the best.
>Bombardier aerospace has an engine that revs to 6000 rpm and was
available
>in turbo and non turbo It had a gear drive and a small displacement.
They
>said it would be the engine of choice. I Have heard nothing for a
while. I
>presume it's a dead issue. There is no place for a wimpy engine in an
>airplane. Everybody gets confused with driving cars as much as we do.
An
>aircraft engine is the only thing keeping you from crashing,,,,,Why
skimp
>on
>power or strength or design. I am glad everybody is trying to make
these
>ridicules engines. Every day you hear of some crazy new design that
uses
>some new method of engine or some other band aid. Airplanes need big
beefy
>no excuses power. I would gladly drive a prius. But I want power in my
>plane
>or on a passenger jet. I do intend to make a version of my engine with
>catalytic converters. The amount of oil, raw fuel and lead spewing out
of
>our planes today is unacceptable. I am very excited about the future of
my
>engines. They will be so much cleaner than what we have today. As far
as
>the
>twin turbos on a Subaru. It's a good engine but do you really want to
have
>your kids in an airplane with an overstressed engine that is not made
for
>aircraft?? Or how about being an unpaid test pilot?
>
>In your RV10, how much can the engine weigh and how much power is
>recommended? Do they have a maximum power recommended?
>
>
>Eric.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
>Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 9:00 AM
>To: Eric@wolfaerospace.com
>Subject: RE: This is umm??
>
>Isn't a car's transmission considerred a gear reduction. Why is it a
>bigger
>problem in an airplane. One would think that because the propeller
>supplies
>a constant load, unlike a car wheels, that it would be easier on the
gears.
>
>What do you think about the idea of the twin turbos on the
Eggenfellner's.
>
>John
>
>
> >From: "Eric Wolf" <Eric@wolfaerospace.com>
> >To: "'John Gonzalez'" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> >Subject: RE: This is umm??
> >Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 14:37:43 -0800
> >
> >I think turbine engines get efficient at 30000 feet. You will never
go
> >above 12500 without oxygen. I have flown all over the place. I flew
all
> >the way to Tennessee once. I fly to Vegas, Mammoth, Utah, Arizona,
san
> >Francisco. I did all this under 12500 except for the Tennessee
flight.
> >I did that at 13500 with oxygen. I saw in their web site the rebuild
> >cost would be one third the cost of the engine. I think if you need
> >260hp, your best bet would be a Lycoming or continental right now. I
> >hate to say that but it is the only big engine without a gear
> >reduction. Gear reductions are big problems on piston engines. They
all
> >say they have it figured out but they just don't last. On a turbine
> >engine, gear reductions are not bad because there are no power pulses
> >to beat the gear reduction apart. If Innodyn gets it done soon, maybe
> >that would be interesting. The fuel consumption is high on a turbine
> >but they also have a lot of advantages. Maybe I will have an engine
> >done in time for your plane......
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
> >Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 9:49 AM
> >To: Eric@wolfaerospace.com
> >Subject: RE: This is umm??
> >
> >Eric, they claim a 5000 hr O.H. time. NO indication as to how much $
> >to rebuild. Dought I would have to if it doesn't fall apart..."IF"
> >
> >According to Charlie Sullivan at Innodyn the test pilot was able to
do
> >something to jimmy the system and prevent the computer from doing its
> >normal task. Then the problem occured.
> >
> >Here is what I intend to do with my plane. After flying off the
hours
> >at the local airport the power plane will be used for trips only.
> >Mammoth several times a year. SW Colorado a lot and Idaho once a
year.
> >I will probably fly the sailplane more for the spiritual side of
flying
> >and leave the power plane as a tool.
> >
> >I may base the glider in Bishop in the summers and fly to it instead
of
> >doing cross country flights as the driving costs and time are getting
> >prohibitive.
> >
> >
> > >From: "Eric Wolf" <Eric@wolfaerospace.com>
> > >To: "'John Gonzalez'" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> > >Subject: This is umm??
> > >Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 08:42:41 -0800
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >"we confirmed the need for fully integrated flight systems and the
> > >importance of specialized pilot training on operating our turbine.
"
> > >
> > >
> > >I pulled this from their web site. This is exactly what I am
talking
> >about.
> > >I think the aviation world is high on crazy pills!!!!!!!! Why do I
> > >need to be trained for something that should just work!!!! PUSH THE
> > >KNOB FORWARD AND IT MAKES MORE POWER, PULL THE KNOB BACK AND IT
MAKES
> > >LESS!!!!! That's all you will need to know for my engine. No Shock
> > >cooling or overheating, no carb ice, just power when and where you
> > >need it. I would rather fly the plane than worry about what the
> > >engine is doing. Imagine if you had to drive a car like you fly a
>plane,,haha,,.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Wolf Aerospace Corp.
> > >1152 Acacia Ct.
> > >Ontario Ca. 91761
> > >(909)947-2121
> > >FAX (909)947-5299
> > >The information in this e-mail is confidential and may be legally
> > >privileged. It is intended solely for the addressee. Access to
this
> > >e-mail by anyone else is unauthorized. If you are not the intended
> > >recipient, any disclosure, copying distribution or any action taken
> > >or omitted to be taken in reliance on it, is prohibited and may be
> > >unlawful
> > >
> > >--
> > >3/22/2006
> > >
> > >
> > ><< wolfx.jpg >>
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >3/22/2006
> >
> >
> >--
> >3/22/2006
> >
> >
>
>
>--
>
>
>--
>
>
Message 9
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Just curious. Why would you run a #2 grounding wire forward? I understand it
if the airframe is composite but an all metal aircraft provides a way to
eliminate long grounds and save weight. You will be running a #20(?) aft to
ground the master relay anyway.
Another consideration is running the DC wires down the left side of the
fuselage and running the digital (shielded) pairs triplets and quads down
the right side.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit
>
> I my experience (and with the wiring that I had) three total conduits of
> 3/4" OD (ID just a hair bigger than the #2 Welding wire) was sufficient,
> although I had 4 of them, two down each side. The welding wire took one
> by
> itself. If you are going to run a ground wire from the battery forward,
> then it would obviously take more space as Tim mentioned.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 7:25 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Conduit
>
>
> I can't remember if it was 1.125 OD, or 1.05...I thought the latter.
> Oh well. I can't say for sure that you won't have any weakening
> there, and no I didn't ask. I have seen people drill 2 holes
> there, instead of 1. I haven't fallen from the sky yet, but
> I suppose it could happen any day. ;)
>
> As for space left over, everything I have front to rear is run through
> those conduits. The side that has the 2 #2 welding wire runs is pretty
> darn full. Not much space left. (I do have about 4 wires extra run
> through just for future use, and even a couple shielded ones on the
> other side.) The opposite side has space left for more antenna wire or
> other things, even though it has my huge (pinky sized) tygon static
> tube running through it. I've heard that a pair of .75" ID lines
> is just barely enough to manage in simpler installations, so I wanted
> to guarantee a troublefree install.
>
> I can't help make up your mind on what to do about the holes, but
> I'm glad I have the space I do. Esp. on the Left side, there's
> just not much room to run things.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> seanblair@adelphia.net wrote:
>>
>> I'm getting ready to run conduit through the baqggage area and
>> acquired the same stuff Tim Olsen is using. It looks great, lots of
>> room, and should do the job. The concern I have is how large this is
>> on the O.D. and will there be a significant weakening of the
>> bulkheads from enlarging the holes to size?
>>
>> I believe the O.D. is 1.125 inches. I plan to run one on each side.
>> Tim and others, after you installed this conduit, did you have alot
>> of extra capacity left over? Could it be scaled down a little and
>> still be sufficient?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Sean Blair #40225
>
>
> --
> 11:50 AM
>
>
> --
> 4:07 PM
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | My wings arrived :-) |
Nav Antenna's from Archer
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 5:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: My wings arrived :-)
<michael@wellenzohn.net>
I am so happy, yesterday my QB Wings arrived. I am now doing the
inventory and need to start building the wing stand. Having it shipped
to Switzerland cost me a fortune but I have no alternative.
Can you please advise if anything is missing or you know of better
alternatives in my "need to buy" list for the wings:
- Pitot tube (Gretz-1000)
- LED Nav Lights & Strobe (Jeff)
- Landing lights (Vans HID)
- Servos for A/P
Many Thanks
Michael
http:/www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (tailcone)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79510#79510
Message 11
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|
My theory is that I would rather die owing a million than with a million
in the bank, that way at least everyone would know I had fun!
Several people around here plan it so that the check the family writes
for the funeral bounces, now that is money management!
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit
So, if you had 10 million dollars, you would be broke? I don't follow
this
logic. Actually, as far as I am concerned, you can have the 10 million
dollars. "Give me neither poverty nor riches" is a motto I like to go
by,
unlike the majority of people. I assume you mean that if you got 10
million
dollars it would be gone soon, which would mean you would be broke,
which
would mean you wouldn't be able to fuel that viper jet.
Ah, the relaxed nonsense outside the engine war.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Conduit
Well, there's still no interior lights other than panel lights, and
no built-in electronic O2 system. Then a couple of wires for
battery bus uses if I ever find any (alarm system...). After
that it'll get tougher....maybe a hot water heater so my sink
has hot water, and then there's the flush toilet and vanity.
I still won't have a kitchen sink, but a shower would be nice
on the longer flights. ;)
You can tell the difference between me and some....I'm the guy
who says "well, it's only 1.5 extra pounds of wire". <G>
The thing I don't get about your dream is, why aren't YOU
flying that plane instead of the hired pilot? Man if I had
10 million dollars, I'd still be broke but I'd be flying
myself around in a Viper jet. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> Tim,
>
> You ran extra wires for FUTURE avionics? You already have things
in
> that plane that myself and others have not even DREAMED about yet. I
> want in my FUTURE a hired pilot flying me, remotes in my hand watching
> videos/sateliteTV in the rear seat, drinking lots of cold imported
beer
> and waiting to land at another exotic white sand beach. LOL
> OK........maybe I will put in a few 3 1/4 guages to make it IFR legal
in
> a few years to fill up a few of the empty conduits before my FUTURE
> dream plane.
>
> Beats reading Eggenfeller posts,
>
> DEAN 40449
>
>
--
11:50 AM
--
4:07 PM
Message 12
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Just to stir the pot "GRIN"
The Subaru package only takes 6 AWG wire instead of the 2AWG welding
wire, so more weight savings, oh and more space savings in the
conduit....
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit
I my experience (and with the wiring that I had) three total conduits of
3/4" OD (ID just a hair bigger than the #2 Welding wire) was sufficient,
although I had 4 of them, two down each side. The welding wire took one
by
itself. If you are going to run a ground wire from the battery forward,
then it would obviously take more space as Tim mentioned.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Conduit
I can't remember if it was 1.125 OD, or 1.05...I thought the latter.
Oh well. I can't say for sure that you won't have any weakening
there, and no I didn't ask. I have seen people drill 2 holes
there, instead of 1. I haven't fallen from the sky yet, but
I suppose it could happen any day. ;)
As for space left over, everything I have front to rear is run through
those conduits. The side that has the 2 #2 welding wire runs is pretty
darn full. Not much space left. (I do have about 4 wires extra run
through just for future use, and even a couple shielded ones on the
other side.) The opposite side has space left for more antenna wire or
other things, even though it has my huge (pinky sized) tygon static
tube running through it. I've heard that a pair of .75" ID lines
is just barely enough to manage in simpler installations, so I wanted
to guarantee a troublefree install.
I can't help make up your mind on what to do about the holes, but
I'm glad I have the space I do. Esp. on the Left side, there's
just not much room to run things.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
seanblair@adelphia.net wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to run conduit through the baqggage area and
> acquired the same stuff Tim Olsen is using. It looks great, lots of
> room, and should do the job. The concern I have is how large this is
> on the O.D. and will there be a significant weakening of the
> bulkheads from enlarging the holes to size?
>
> I believe the O.D. is 1.125 inches. I plan to run one on each side.
> Tim and others, after you installed this conduit, did you have alot
> of extra capacity left over? Could it be scaled down a little and
> still be sufficient?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair #40225
--
11:50 AM
--
4:07 PM
Message 13
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| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my
custom painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand
carved and painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh
several years ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold the
original one on the list to another builder. My wife got it for me for
fathers day, and I have had it on my desk at work, it still looks brand
new. And for those wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner mod
installed, so it still has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front, but my
new one will have the 4 bladed prop. "GRIN"
It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if
anyone is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future
builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that call
you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC
model.
Dan
> Dan Lloyd
Director of Information Technology
> Werner Company
> 93 Werner Road
> Greenville, PA 16125
>
> lloyddr@wernerco.com
> 1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
> 1-724-988-9230 cell
>
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: FW: RE: This is umm?? This dead horse has three broken |
legs.
This is Ontario just east of Los Angeles.
Not Canada.
JOhn
>From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: RE: This is umm?? This dead horse has three
>broken legs.
>Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 22:43:36 -0700
>
>
>I know nothing about this new engine entry but did notice that it is based
>in Canada. Having lived outside the USA for many years, one learns that
>there are many different laws affecting business transactions. The
>difficulty and cost of enforcing a business transaction where they have
>your money and your new engine can be daunting. Ask some of the RV builders
>who have dealt with Crossflow or Mistral.
>----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>To: <Rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 9:59 PM
>Subject: RV10-List: FW: RE: This is umm?? This dead horse has three broken
>legs.
>
>
>
>Dj,
>
>For those wanting more information, I feel I should share this with you.
>
>Again, Eric Wolf runs Wolf Aerospace and is supposed to be currently
>working
>on a water cooled/direct drive Lyco replacement.
>
>I need to touch basis with him and see whats up. I know, we have all heard
>the same story before.
>
>Read below about the problem with reduction drives on internal combustion
>engines.
>
>I imagine some of these gear wear spots could be minimized by using worm
>drive gearing as it spreads the force out over a greater surface area.
>Below
>explains the problem well.
>
>Even with this said Eggs are still not out of my thought process. Just more
>food for thought.
>
>
>>From: "Eric Wolf" <Eric@wolfaerospace.com>
>>To: "'John Gonzalez'" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>Subject: RE: This is umm??
>>Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 11:30:51 -0800
>>
>>Hi John. The reason gear reductions are a problem in planes is that you
>>fly
>>full throttle most of the time. Cars have a torque converter or a clutch
>>which absorbs the oscillations of the power pulses. The gears of a
>>airplane
>>gear reduction are constantly beating each other up all the time. The
>>propeller is fighting the air and is wanting to slow down and the engine
>>produces a power pulse every 90 degrees of revolution(8 cylinder)(180 for
>>a
>>4 cylinder). At the point of power the gears are smashed together, as soon
>>as the power pulse is over the gears slam each other the other way because
>>of the prop trying to stop due to wind resistance. Its quite nasty and can
>>set up a harmonic at certain rpm's that can destroy the reduction drive.
>>You
>>know when you are drilling teeth and you get that sweet spot rpm and
>>everything works well. But then you slow down while cutting and it gets
>>rough. Same thing kind of. Its not optimum at all but Subaru does not make
>>an engine big enough to fly a plane. They are getting HP by revving up the
>>engine then reducing rpm with a gear drive.. The old Conti and Lyc engines
>>are tough but outdated. I am improving what already works the best.
>>Bombardier aerospace has an engine that revs to 6000 rpm and was available
>>in turbo and non turbo It had a gear drive and a small displacement. They
>>said it would be the engine of choice. I Have heard nothing for a while. I
>>presume it's a dead issue. There is no place for a wimpy engine in an
>>airplane. Everybody gets confused with driving cars as much as we do. An
>>aircraft engine is the only thing keeping you from crashing,,,,,Why skimp
>>on
>>power or strength or design. I am glad everybody is trying to make these
>>ridicules engines. Every day you hear of some crazy new design that uses
>>some new method of engine or some other band aid. Airplanes need big beefy
>>no excuses power. I would gladly drive a prius. But I want power in my
>>plane
>>or on a passenger jet. I do intend to make a version of my engine with
>>catalytic converters. The amount of oil, raw fuel and lead spewing out of
>>our planes today is unacceptable. I am very excited about the future of my
>>engines. They will be so much cleaner than what we have today. As far as
>>the
>>twin turbos on a Subaru. It's a good engine but do you really want to have
>>your kids in an airplane with an overstressed engine that is not made for
>>aircraft?? Or how about being an unpaid test pilot?
>>
>>In your RV10, how much can the engine weigh and how much power is
>>recommended? Do they have a maximum power recommended?
>>
>>
>>Eric.
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
>>Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 9:00 AM
>>To: Eric@wolfaerospace.com
>>Subject: RE: This is umm??
>>
>>Isn't a car's transmission considerred a gear reduction. Why is it a
>>bigger
>>problem in an airplane. One would think that because the propeller
>>supplies
>>a constant load, unlike a car wheels, that it would be easier on the
>>gears.
>>
>>What do you think about the idea of the twin turbos on the Eggenfellner's.
>>
>>John
>>
>>
>> >From: "Eric Wolf" <Eric@wolfaerospace.com>
>> >To: "'John Gonzalez'" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>> >Subject: RE: This is umm??
>> >Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 14:37:43 -0800
>> >
>> >I think turbine engines get efficient at 30000 feet. You will never go
>> >above 12500 without oxygen. I have flown all over the place. I flew all
>> >the way to Tennessee once. I fly to Vegas, Mammoth, Utah, Arizona, san
>> >Francisco. I did all this under 12500 except for the Tennessee flight.
>> >I did that at 13500 with oxygen. I saw in their web site the rebuild
>> >cost would be one third the cost of the engine. I think if you need
>> >260hp, your best bet would be a Lycoming or continental right now. I
>> >hate to say that but it is the only big engine without a gear
>> >reduction. Gear reductions are big problems on piston engines. They all
>> >say they have it figured out but they just don't last. On a turbine
>> >engine, gear reductions are not bad because there are no power pulses
>> >to beat the gear reduction apart. If Innodyn gets it done soon, maybe
>> >that would be interesting. The fuel consumption is high on a turbine
>> >but they also have a lot of advantages. Maybe I will have an engine
>> >done in time for your plane......
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
>> >Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 9:49 AM
>> >To: Eric@wolfaerospace.com
>> >Subject: RE: This is umm??
>> >
>> >Eric, they claim a 5000 hr O.H. time. NO indication as to how much $
>> >to rebuild. Dought I would have to if it doesn't fall apart..."IF"
>> >
>> >According to Charlie Sullivan at Innodyn the test pilot was able to do
>> >something to jimmy the system and prevent the computer from doing its
>> >normal task. Then the problem occured.
>> >
>> >Here is what I intend to do with my plane. After flying off the hours
>> >at the local airport the power plane will be used for trips only.
>> >Mammoth several times a year. SW Colorado a lot and Idaho once a year.
>> >I will probably fly the sailplane more for the spiritual side of flying
>> >and leave the power plane as a tool.
>> >
>> >I may base the glider in Bishop in the summers and fly to it instead of
>> >doing cross country flights as the driving costs and time are getting
>> >prohibitive.
>> >
>> >
>> > >From: "Eric Wolf" <Eric@wolfaerospace.com>
>> > >To: "'John Gonzalez'" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>> > >Subject: This is umm??
>> > >Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 08:42:41 -0800
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >"we confirmed the need for fully integrated flight systems and the
>> > >importance of specialized pilot training on operating our turbine. "
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >I pulled this from their web site. This is exactly what I am talking
>> >about.
>> > >I think the aviation world is high on crazy pills!!!!!!!! Why do I
>> > >need to be trained for something that should just work!!!! PUSH THE
>> > >KNOB FORWARD AND IT MAKES MORE POWER, PULL THE KNOB BACK AND IT MAKES
>> > >LESS!!!!! That's all you will need to know for my engine. No Shock
>> > >cooling or overheating, no carb ice, just power when and where you
>> > >need it. I would rather fly the plane than worry about what the
>> > >engine is doing. Imagine if you had to drive a car like you fly a
>>plane,,haha,,.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >Wolf Aerospace Corp.
>> > >1152 Acacia Ct.
>> > >Ontario Ca. 91761
>> > >(909)947-2121
>> > >FAX (909)947-5299
>> > >The information in this e-mail is confidential and may be legally
>> > >privileged. It is intended solely for the addressee. Access to this
>> > >e-mail by anyone else is unauthorized. If you are not the intended
>> > >recipient, any disclosure, copying distribution or any action taken
>> > >or omitted to be taken in reliance on it, is prohibited and may be
>> > >unlawful
>> > >
>> > >--
>> > >3/22/2006
>> > >
>> > >
>> > ><< wolfx.jpg >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >--
>> >3/22/2006
>> >
>> >
>> >--
>> >3/22/2006
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>
>>
>>--
>>
>>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
Where do we get an original, I want to see my paint scheme on 3D.
JOhn G.
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 10:03:38 -0500
>
>I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my custom
>painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand carved and
>painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh several years
>ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold the original one on the
>list to another builder. My wife got it for me for fathers day, and I have
>had it on my desk at work, it still looks brand new. And for those
>wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner mod installed, so it still
>has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front, but my new one will have the 4
>bladed prop. "GRIN"
>It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if anyone
>is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
>Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future
>builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that call
>you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC model.
>Dan
>
> > Dan Lloyd
>Director of Information Technology
> > Werner Company
> > 93 Werner Road
> > Greenville, PA 16125
> >
> > lloyddr@wernerco.com
> > 1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
> > 1-724-988-9230 cell
> >
> >
> >
Message 16
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| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
How much are you asking for it?
Jack Phillips
40610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R=2E
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:04 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order
my custom painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the
hand carved and painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at
Oshkosh several years ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold
the original one on the list to another builder. My wife got it for me
for fathers day, and I have had it on my desk at work, it still looks
brand new. And for those wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner
mod installed, so it still has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front,
but my new one will have the 4 bladed prop. "GRIN"
It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder,
if anyone is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to
future builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those
that call you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just
an RC model.
Dan
Dan Lloyd
Director of Information Technology
Werner Company
93 Werner Road
Greenville, PA 16125
lloyddr@wernerco.com <mailto:lloyddr@wernerco.com>
1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
1-724-988-9230 cell
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
Message 17
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| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
Well,,, the way I got the name and address was to buy the model from
Tim.....But if you ask real nice I might be inclined to post it for
everyone going this route. They are $189, and take 90 days or so to get
painted.
Dan
Just trying to lighten the humor on the list after the war
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Where do we get an original, I want to see my paint scheme on 3D.
JOhn G.
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 10:03:38 -0500
>
>I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my
custom
>painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand carved
and
>painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh several years
>ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold the original one on the
>list to another builder. My wife got it for me for fathers day, and I
have
>had it on my desk at work, it still looks brand new. And for those
>wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner mod installed, so it
still
>has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front, but my new one will have the
4
>bladed prop. "GRIN"
>It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if
anyone
>is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
>Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future
>builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that
call
>you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC
model.
>Dan
>
> > Dan Lloyd
>Director of Information Technology
> > Werner Company
> > 93 Werner Road
> > Greenville, PA 16125
> >
> > lloyddr@wernerco.com
> > 1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
> > 1-724-988-9230 cell
> >
> >
> >
Message 18
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Does anyone have any hi resolution pictures of the following:
Garmin 327 Transponder
Garmin SL30 Nav / Com
Garmin 496 in a panel buddy
PMA 7000B Audio
AF-3500 EFIS
All of the pictures I have found so far are low res. I have the tools to crop
and scale to full size. Maybe someone can just take a picture of their panel
if you have any of the above items. Operating ("On") would be preferred, but
anything will do for now.
You can send to my e-mail vs filling the list with large files.
Thanks, Jim C
N312F
#40192
Do Not Archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Lycoming reliability |
Those Lycs in your shop having top end work, for whatever reason, are
there because they continued to run, while providing symptoms to their
problems. Those engines would otherwise be in some smoking hole
somewhere, if there had been an immediate failure, and power loss. THAT
is what reliability is in an aircraft engine, and that is what a Lyc
with at least one magneto provides. Water cooling, high compression,
high RPMs, gear reduction units, electronic ignition, FADEC systems, all
erode away that basic reliability. My passengers will be provided with
the best odds that we'll get safely on the ground, regardless how much
money it costs.
If you want to save a buck, or prove something to yourself, do it in
something other than a 4 seat cross country machine. And wear a
parachute.
That's my 2 cents, now lets move on!
Chris Hukill
multiple Lyc engine owner
A&P
Message 20
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| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
Whats another $189.00 dollars, pretty please, please, please, please, can I
have the address.
I want to give myself another nice Christmas gift.
John G.
I called you this am, you were gone. I'll call you on my way home today.
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 11:58:24 -0500
>
>
>Well,,, the way I got the name and address was to buy the model from
>Tim.....But if you ask real nice I might be inclined to post it for
>everyone going this route. They are $189, and take 90 days or so to get
>painted.
>Dan
>Just trying to lighten the humor on the list after the war
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:24 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>
><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Where do we get an original, I want to see my paint scheme on 3D.
>
>JOhn G.
>
>
> >From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
> >Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 10:03:38 -0500
> >
> >I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my
>custom
> >painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand carved
>and
> >painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh several years
>
> >ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold the original one on the
>
> >list to another builder. My wife got it for me for fathers day, and I
>have
> >had it on my desk at work, it still looks brand new. And for those
> >wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner mod installed, so it
>still
> >has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front, but my new one will have the
>4
> >bladed prop. "GRIN"
> >It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if
>anyone
> >is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
> >Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future
> >builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that
>call
> >you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC
>model.
> >Dan
> >
> > > Dan Lloyd
> >Director of Information Technology
> > > Werner Company
> > > 93 Werner Road
> > > Greenville, PA 16125
> > >
> > > lloyddr@wernerco.com
> > > 1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
> > > 1-724-988-9230 cell
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
Hmmm
I am interested as well.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips,
Jack
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 8:31 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
How much are you asking for it?
Jack Phillips
40610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my
custom
painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand carved
and
painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh several years
ago.
When he got to the painting stage, he sold the original one on the list
to
another builder. My wife got it for me for fathers day, and I have had
it on
my desk at work, it still looks brand new. And for those wondering, no
it
has not had the Eggenfellner mod installed, so it still has the two
bladed
Hartzel prop out front, but my new one will have the 4 bladed prop.
"GRIN"
It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if
anyone
is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future
builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that call
you
crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC model.
Dan
Dan Lloyd
Director of Information Technology
Werner Company
93 Werner Road
Greenville, PA 16125
<mailto:lloyddr@wernerco.com> lloyddr@wernerco.com
1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
1-724-988-9230 cell
ectric.com
">www.buildersbooks.com
og.com
builthelp.com
.matronics.com/contribution
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete
the
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands
- N
Message 22
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| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
I have also had a guy in Ecuador make some of them. I can post pictures if
you want them. With shipping, it should be about $150 painted. All he
needs is pictures of details and the 3 views to do it. It should take about
a month or maybe a little more for delivery.
You can contact me off the list for the info if you want.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 11:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
Well,,, the way I got the name and address was to buy the model from
Tim.....But if you ask real nice I might be inclined to post it for
everyone going this route. They are $189, and take 90 days or so to get
painted.
Dan
Just trying to lighten the humor on the list after the war
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Where do we get an original, I want to see my paint scheme on 3D.
JOhn G.
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 10:03:38 -0500
>
>I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my
custom
>painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand carved
and
>painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh several years
>ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold the original one on the
>list to another builder. My wife got it for me for fathers day, and I
have
>had it on my desk at work, it still looks brand new. And for those
>wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner mod installed, so it
still
>has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front, but my new one will have the
4
>bladed prop. "GRIN"
>It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if
anyone
>is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
>Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future
>builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that
call
>you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC
model.
>Dan
>
> > Dan Lloyd
>Director of Information Technology
> > Werner Company
> > 93 Werner Road
> > Greenville, PA 16125
> >
> > lloyddr@wernerco.com
> > 1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
> > 1-724-988-9230 cell
> >
> >
> >
--
4:07 PM
--
4:07 PM
Message 23
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|
Some run a ground wire forward to avoid the possibility of ground loops in
the wiring and some even don't ground the battery locally. There can be
benefits of both. The main purpose of doing so is to avoid using the
airframe as ground so you KNOW where the current is flowing, and all of it
is flowing the same way. I assume some also have 2 wires running from the
battery compartment because they have 2 batteries back there, but am not
sure. I leave it to one and use grounding blocks to the airframe.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Conduit
Just curious. Why would you run a #2 grounding wire forward? I understand it
if the airframe is composite but an all metal aircraft provides a way to
eliminate long grounds and save weight. You will be running a #20(?) aft to
ground the master relay anyway.
Another consideration is running the DC wires down the left side of the
fuselage and running the digital (shielded) pairs triplets and quads down
the right side.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit
>
> I my experience (and with the wiring that I had) three total conduits of
> 3/4" OD (ID just a hair bigger than the #2 Welding wire) was sufficient,
> although I had 4 of them, two down each side. The welding wire took one
> by
> itself. If you are going to run a ground wire from the battery forward,
> then it would obviously take more space as Tim mentioned.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 7:25 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Conduit
>
>
> I can't remember if it was 1.125 OD, or 1.05...I thought the latter.
> Oh well. I can't say for sure that you won't have any weakening
> there, and no I didn't ask. I have seen people drill 2 holes
> there, instead of 1. I haven't fallen from the sky yet, but
> I suppose it could happen any day. ;)
>
> As for space left over, everything I have front to rear is run through
> those conduits. The side that has the 2 #2 welding wire runs is pretty
> darn full. Not much space left. (I do have about 4 wires extra run
> through just for future use, and even a couple shielded ones on the
> other side.) The opposite side has space left for more antenna wire or
> other things, even though it has my huge (pinky sized) tygon static
> tube running through it. I've heard that a pair of .75" ID lines
> is just barely enough to manage in simpler installations, so I wanted
> to guarantee a troublefree install.
>
> I can't help make up your mind on what to do about the holes, but
> I'm glad I have the space I do. Esp. on the Left side, there's
> just not much room to run things.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> seanblair@adelphia.net wrote:
>>
>> I'm getting ready to run conduit through the baqggage area and
>> acquired the same stuff Tim Olsen is using. It looks great, lots of
>> room, and should do the job. The concern I have is how large this is
>> on the O.D. and will there be a significant weakening of the
>> bulkheads from enlarging the holes to size?
>>
>> I believe the O.D. is 1.125 inches. I plan to run one on each side.
>> Tim and others, after you installed this conduit, did you have alot
>> of extra capacity left over? Could it be scaled down a little and
>> still be sufficient?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Sean Blair #40225
>
>
> --
> 11:50 AM
>
>
> --
> 4:07 PM
>
>
>
--
4:07 PM
--
4:07 PM
Message 24
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| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
Here it is for all of those enquiring minds:
Griffin Aerospace Models
4200 N. Main Street, Suite 280
Fort Worth Texas 76106
Phone 866-584-0260
Dan
I will be home after about 6pm EST and pounding rivets.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Whats another $189.00 dollars, pretty please, please, please, please,
can I
have the address.
I want to give myself another nice Christmas gift.
John G.
I called you this am, you were gone. I'll call you on my way home
today.
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 11:58:24 -0500
>
<LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>Well,,, the way I got the name and address was to buy the model from
>Tim.....But if you ask real nice I might be inclined to post it for
>everyone going this route. They are $189, and take 90 days or so to get
>painted.
>Dan
>Just trying to lighten the humor on the list after the war
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Gonzalez
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:24 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>
><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Where do we get an original, I want to see my paint scheme on 3D.
>
>JOhn G.
>
>
> >From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
> >Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 10:03:38 -0500
> >
> >I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my
>custom
> >painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand
carved
>and
> >painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh several
years
>
> >ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold the original one on
the
>
> >list to another builder. My wife got it for me for fathers day, and I
>have
> >had it on my desk at work, it still looks brand new. And for those
> >wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner mod installed, so it
>still
> >has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front, but my new one will have
the
>4
> >bladed prop. "GRIN"
> >It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if
>anyone
> >is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
> >Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future
> >builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that
>call
> >you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC
>model.
> >Dan
> >
> > > Dan Lloyd
> >Director of Information Technology
> > > Werner Company
> > > 93 Werner Road
> > > Greenville, PA 16125
> > >
> > > lloyddr@wernerco.com
> > > 1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
> > > 1-724-988-9230 cell
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Lycoming reliability |
Wear a parachutte and more importantly get a glider rating and do atleast a
few cross country flights in gliders to understand how a single engine power
plane should be flown. A glider rating alone means nothing until you do it
cross country.
IMO
JOhn G.
>From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill@cox.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Lycoming reliability
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 09:41:14 -0800
>
>Those Lycs in your shop having top end work, for whatever reason, are there
>because they continued to run, while providing symptoms to their problems.
>Those engines would otherwise be in some smoking hole somewhere, if there
>had been an immediate failure, and power loss. THAT is what reliability is
>in an aircraft engine, and that is what a Lyc with at least one magneto
>provides. Water cooling, high compression, high RPMs, gear reduction
>units, electronic ignition, FADEC systems, all erode away that basic
>reliability. My passengers will be provided with the best odds that we'll
>get safely on the ground, regardless how much money it costs.
>If you want to save a buck, or prove something to yourself, do it in
>something other than a 4 seat cross country machine. And wear a parachute.
>That's my 2 cents, now lets move on!
>
>Chris Hukill
>multiple Lyc engine owner
>A&P
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
Jesse,
What are those ones made from?
JOhn G.
>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 13:18:17 -0500
>
>
>I have also had a guy in Ecuador make some of them. I can post pictures if
>you want them. With shipping, it should be about $150 painted. All he
>needs is pictures of details and the 3 views to do it. It should take
>about
>a month or maybe a little more for delivery.
>
>You can contact me off the list for the info if you want.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 11:58 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>
>
>Well,,, the way I got the name and address was to buy the model from
>Tim.....But if you ask real nice I might be inclined to post it for
>everyone going this route. They are $189, and take 90 days or so to get
>painted.
>Dan
>Just trying to lighten the humor on the list after the war
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:24 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>
><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Where do we get an original, I want to see my paint scheme on 3D.
>
>JOhn G.
>
>
> >From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
> >Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 10:03:38 -0500
> >
> >I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my
>custom
> >painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand carved
>and
> >painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh several years
>
> >ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold the original one on the
>
> >list to another builder. My wife got it for me for fathers day, and I
>have
> >had it on my desk at work, it still looks brand new. And for those
> >wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner mod installed, so it
>still
> >has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front, but my new one will have the
>4
> >bladed prop. "GRIN"
> >It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if
>anyone
> >is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
> >Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future
> >builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that
>call
> >you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC
>model.
> >Dan
> >
> > > Dan Lloyd
> >Director of Information Technology
> > > Werner Company
> > > 93 Werner Road
> > > Greenville, PA 16125
> > >
> > > lloyddr@wernerco.com
> > > 1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
> > > 1-724-988-9230 cell
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>--
>4:07 PM
>
>
>--
>4:07 PM
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | The difference in Teflon wire? |
Tim,
I noticed form your web site that you recommend Wire Masters.
Do you know the difference between the two types of Teflon wire:
Teflon 22759-PTFE
(Polytetrafloroethylene)
Teflon 16878 -PTFE
The numbers mean nothing to me.
Thanks,
John G.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Hi Res Pics? |
Jim,
Try the company web sites. I got my Garmin pics from their site and
printed them to actual size. The photo quality was good enough to use as an
economical panel planner. Also got the ACS 3400/3500 pics from their site.
John Habrouck
#40264
Message 29
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As many of you are painfully aware of my many questions, I'm getting ready to take
the plunge into the RV10 world.
I've asked several RV10 builders that are local to me their opinions about what
yokes do I need to get for my squeezer. Both replies I got was to use a 4"
and a longeron. One indicated that while he had a 3", he didn't use it.
Today, I got the following response from Avery:
"Hi Bob, You need the 7730 three inch yoke. It is the one you will use the most.
Change the 7555 into the 7530. That gives you one pneumatic with the three inch
yoke. Re-add the 7755 longeron yoke. That gives you three yokes, the 7730
(part of the 7530), the 7755 longeron and the 7760 four inch no-hole. You could
try to do without the 3" yoke, but I don't recommend it. I would leave the longeron
off, before the 3 inch."
Since I have no experience to base a decision, I would like to solicit opinions
from a larger group of builders.
I am on a somewhat constrained budget, which means I'm already spending more than
my spouse is aware of at the moment. However, if it will make a significant
difference in the ease of construction, I'm not opposed to getting the right
tools.
So, what yokes do I need to purchase?
And yes, they will be attached to a pnuematic squeezer.
thanks,
bob
N410BL - RV10
N3493R - PA28-180
Message 30
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| Subject: | The difference in Teflon wire? |
Teflon can be difficult to work with. Harder to strip primarily.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 2:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire?
--> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Tim,
I noticed form your web site that you recommend Wire Masters.
Do you know the difference between the two types of Teflon wire:
Teflon 22759-PTFE
(Polytetrafloroethylene)
Teflon 16878 -PTFE
The numbers mean nothing to me.
Thanks,
John G.
Message 31
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I have a 4" no hole, a 3" standard and a 2-1/2" longeron. All were used on the
entire build, My favorite is the longeron because it wraps around areas the standard
can't. The no hole fits where others can't the standard for a reasonbly
longer reach. Don't forget the adjustable set, makes setting it up very fast
unless your William "washer/shim man" Curtis who swears by his washer and shim
method ;)
I ground the nose of my 3" down slightly to allow it to operate close to rib flanges
without scratching or scraping the rib in close quarters.
They can also be used a bucking bars in certain areas as well.
Rick S.
40185
Message 32
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| Subject: | Aileron Counterbalance |
Part A 1009, page 21-2 appears on the packing list (I believe) as 2
pieces of ST304-065 X 1.375 X 34.62. I don't seem to have those. I
do have a single piece of AT6-035 X 1.5 X 83... thinner wall, larger
diameter... is this what I should cut up and use for the counterbalance?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Message 33
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Hi Bob,
I'm sure you'll get many opinions on this. Here is mine:
I have all three types, but if I had to forego one of them it would
be the 3". I have actually loaned out my 3" yoke and have not really
missed it that much. Most of the time I leave the longeron yoke in my
squeezer and only occasionally do I reach for the no-hole yoke.
Also, you should know that the 4" yoke will tend to deflect when
squeezing larger rivets while the 3" didn't seem to give quite as much.
Regards,
Mike Schipper
#40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com
RV-9A - N63MS - flying
On Dec 6, 2006, at 3:03 PM, <rvmail@thelefflers.com> wrote:
> As many of you are painfully aware of my many questions, I'm
> getting ready to take the plunge into the RV10 world.
>
> I've asked several RV10 builders that are local to me their
> opinions about what yokes do I need to get for my squeezer. Both
> replies I got was to use a 4" and a longeron. One indicated that
> while he had a 3", he didn't use it.
>
> Today, I got the following response from Avery:
>
> "Hi Bob, You need the 7730 three inch yoke. It is the one you will
> use the most. Change the 7555 into the 7530. That gives you one
> pneumatic with the three inch yoke. Re-add the 7755 longeron yoke.
> That gives you three yokes, the 7730 (part of the 7530), the 7755
> longeron and the 7760 four inch no-hole. You could try to do
> without the 3" yoke, but I don't recommend it. I would leave the
> longeron off, before the 3 inch."
>
> Since I have no experience to base a decision, I would like to
> solicit opinions from a larger group of builders.
>
> I am on a somewhat constrained budget, which means I'm already
> spending more than my spouse is aware of at the moment. However,
> if it will make a significant difference in the ease of
> construction, I'm not opposed to getting the right tools.
>
> So, what yokes do I need to purchase?
>
> And yes, they will be attached to a pnuematic squeezer.
>
> thanks,
>
> bob
> N410BL - RV10
> N3493R - PA28-180
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: The difference in Teflon wire? |
They were just a good supplier for me.
I don't know the differences off hand, as I only really read
up on the 22759...but it's the 22759 that you want.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> I noticed form your web site that you recommend Wire Masters.
>
> Do you know the difference between the two types of Teflon wire:
>
> Teflon 22759-PTFE
> (Polytetrafloroethylene)
> Teflon 16878 -PTFE
>
> The numbers mean nothing to me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John G.
>
Message 35
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|
I've got a 3" and a longeron. A 4" no-hole (and the adjustable set
sized to go with it) would be nice but not a necessity (at least to this
point in the build HS Stab). Those that are further along/finished may
have more insight into the pros/cons of the 4". I've used the 3" the
most, but I know the longeron yoke will have it's day.
Todd
Dimpling the HS Stab
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 4:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Yokes
As many of you are painfully aware of my many questions, I'm getting
ready to take the plunge into the RV10 world.
I've asked several RV10 builders that are local to me their opinions
about what yokes do I need to get for my squeezer. Both replies I got
was to use a 4" and a longeron. One indicated that while he had a 3",
he didn't use it.
Today, I got the following response from Avery:
"Hi Bob, You need the 7730 three inch yoke. It is the one you will use
the most. Change the 7555 into the 7530. That gives you one pneumatic
with the three inch yoke. Re-add the 7755 longeron yoke. That gives you
three yokes, the 7730 (part of the 7530), the 7755 longeron and the 7760
four inch no-hole. You could try to do without the 3" yoke, but I don't
recommend it. I would leave the longeron off, before the 3 inch."
Since I have no experience to base a decision, I would like to solicit
opinions from a larger group of builders.
I am on a somewhat constrained budget, which means I'm already spending
more than my spouse is aware of at the moment. However, if it will make
a significant difference in the ease of construction, I'm not opposed to
getting the right tools.
So, what yokes do I need to purchase?
And yes, they will be attached to a pnuematic squeezer.
thanks,
bob
N410BL - RV10
N3493R - PA28-180
Message 36
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| Subject: | The difference in Teflon wire? |
A little slippery is it.
Okay, so which tefzel wire is needed or what is the difference in these.
Tefzel-ETFE
(Ethylene Tetrafluoroethylene)
Cross-Linked Tefzel-XL-ETFE
Thanks,
John G.
>From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire?
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 15:09:48 -0600
>
><rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
>Teflon can be difficult to work with. Harder to strip primarily.
>
>Michael
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 2:30 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire?
>
>--> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Tim,
>
>I noticed form your web site that you recommend Wire Masters.
>
>Do you know the difference between the two types of Teflon wire:
>
>Teflon 22759-PTFE
>(Polytetrafloroethylene)
>Teflon 16878 -PTFE
>
>The numbers mean nothing to me.
>
>Thanks,
>
>John G.
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Counterbalance |
Jeff, that may be a pushrod you have there I believe, the counter balances are
steel pipe (ST on the part number) and heavy, can't miss em. At least on my kit
inventory.
Rick S.
40185
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Counterbalance |
Found em...
Thanks Rick
Do Not Archive
On Dec 6, 2006, at 1:38 PM, Rick wrote:
>
> Jeff, that may be a pushrod you have there I believe, the counter
> balances are steel pipe (ST on the part number) and heavy, can't
> miss em. At least on my kit inventory.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
>
>
Message 39
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If going with one yoke, I would probably recommend either the 3" or the
Longeron. If going with two, I would get both the 3" and the Longeron. If
adding another, I would go with a no-hole, whether 3" or 4" (probably 4").
Next I would get a 2", probably, for tight places. The 3" is what we use
the most, but the longeron sure is nice in some places. You can kind-of
simulate a Longeron with the right deep die, but that gets a little harder
to get it in place. The 4" is quite heavy, by the way. The no-hole is
great for the other type of tight areas.
Hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 4:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Yokes
As many of you are painfully aware of my many questions, I'm getting ready
to take the plunge into the RV10 world.
I've asked several RV10 builders that are local to me their opinions about
what yokes do I need to get for my squeezer. Both replies I got was to
use a 4" and a longeron. One indicated that while he had a 3", he didn't
use it.
Today, I got the following response from Avery:
"Hi Bob, You need the 7730 three inch yoke. It is the one you will use the
most. Change the 7555 into the 7530. That gives you one pneumatic with the
three inch yoke. Re-add the 7755 longeron yoke. That gives you three yokes,
the 7730 (part of the 7530), the 7755 longeron and the 7760 four inch
no-hole. You could try to do without the 3" yoke, but I don't recommend it.
I would leave the longeron off, before the 3 inch."
Since I have no experience to base a decision, I would like to solicit
opinions from a larger group of builders.
I am on a somewhat constrained budget, which means I'm already spending more
than my spouse is aware of at the moment. However, if it will make a
significant difference in the ease of construction, I'm not opposed to
getting the right tools.
So, what yokes do I need to purchase?
And yes, they will be attached to a pnuematic squeezer.
thanks,
bob
N410BL - RV10
N3493R - PA28-180
--
4:07 PM
--
4:07 PM
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: The difference in Teflon wire? |
To help strip teflon (or any other slippery insulation) once the
insulation is cut, use a large alligator boot to grip the insulation so
you can pull it off. Or get one of the nifty automatic strippers
that'll cut an pul;l off the insulation all in one lick.
Linn
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>Teflon can be difficult to work with. Harder to strip primarily.
>
>Michael
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 2:30 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire?
>
>--> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Tim,
>
>I noticed form your web site that you recommend Wire Masters.
>
>Do you know the difference between the two types of Teflon wire:
>
>Teflon 22759-PTFE
>(Polytetrafloroethylene)
>Teflon 16878 -PTFE
>
>The numbers mean nothing to me.
>
>Thanks,
>
>John G.
>
>
>
>
Message 41
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|
My yoke priority...
1. Longeron
2. 3 inch
3. 4" no-hole
Longeron stays in the squeezer most often.
Definitely recommend the adjustable set
<http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SNSHA45>
The adjustable set holder is by far the most time-saving piece on the
squeezer.
-Sean #40303
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> If going with one yoke, I would probably recommend either the 3" or the
> Longeron. If going with two, I would get both the 3" and the Longeron. If
> adding another, I would go with a no-hole, whether 3" or 4" (probably 4").
> Next I would get a 2", probably, for tight places. The 3" is what we use
> the most, but the longeron sure is nice in some places. You can kind-of
> simulate a Longeron with the right deep die, but that gets a little harder
> to get it in place. The 4" is quite heavy, by the way. The no-hole is
> great for the other type of tight areas.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> rvmail@thelefflers.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 4:04 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Yokes
>
>
> As many of you are painfully aware of my many questions, I'm getting ready
> to take the plunge into the RV10 world.
>
> I've asked several RV10 builders that are local to me their opinions about
> what yokes do I need to get for my squeezer. Both replies I got was to
> use a 4" and a longeron. One indicated that while he had a 3", he didn't
> use it.
>
> Today, I got the following response from Avery:
>
> "Hi Bob, You need the 7730 three inch yoke. It is the one you will use the
> most. Change the 7555 into the 7530. That gives you one pneumatic with the
> three inch yoke. Re-add the 7755 longeron yoke. That gives you three yokes,
> the 7730 (part of the 7530), the 7755 longeron and the 7760 four inch
> no-hole. You could try to do without the 3" yoke, but I don't recommend it.
> I would leave the longeron off, before the 3 inch."
>
> Since I have no experience to base a decision, I would like to solicit
> opinions from a larger group of builders.
>
> I am on a somewhat constrained budget, which means I'm already spending more
> than my spouse is aware of at the moment. However, if it will make a
> significant difference in the ease of construction, I'm not opposed to
> getting the right tools.
>
> So, what yokes do I need to purchase?
>
> And yes, they will be attached to a pnuematic squeezer.
>
> thanks,
>
> bob
> N410BL - RV10
> N3493R - PA28-180
>
>
>
Message 42
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|
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 6:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
> <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
>
> Cleaveland (that's me) sells them at the following link.
>
> https://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/products.asp?dept=52
>
> In the order of most used yokes there is the 3", 2.5" Flange (longeron),
> and
> 4" thin nose. People like the 4" thin because you can reach in a little
> further with it and still have the thin nose for other tight areas.
>
> Our adjustable set holder will work with all of the yokes where others
> only
> work with the 1" thick base yokes. Ours also has a 32 pitch thread in the
> ram so if you switch from a -3.5 to a -4 rivet it is just a half turn. No
> measuring needed.
>
> We will match the competitions price as long as it is the exact same item
> &
> quality.
>
>
> Mike Lauritsen
> Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
> 2225 First St.
> Boone, Iowa 50036
> 515-432-6794
> mike@cleavelandtool.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 9:04 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
>
>
> You betcha!!
>
> It's worth every penny. I have a 4" no-hole, a 3" regular C and a 2.5"
> Longeron. If I did it again I would have gone with a 3" no-hole instead of
> the 4. The reason being is you can use the adjustable rivet set with the
> three but not the 4. Oh yeah, get the adjustable ram/rivet set too. Worth
> it's weight in shims. Can't say enough about the value of this tool. I
> used
> it to complete all my aluminum work on the RV-10. I don't have a hand
> squeezer in my collection of tools. Buyer beware off E-bay only because of
> the few stories I have heard about getting bad ones, but they did manage
> to
> get the bad ones rebuilt for some savings over a new one if your into
> taking
> that risk.
>
> I picked mine up at http://www.rivettools.com along with their 20
> piece "RV" rivet sets. These are the BEST made sets I ever used and it has
> all the screw dimple dies you will need as well. My dimple dies are still
> intact (heard of nubs breaking off some) and I found they make cleaner
> dimples than many of the cheaper versions if you can call $28-30 cheap!
> The
> set is $150.
>
> No affiliation with them just great service and the tool is still going
> strong.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Link McGarity <callsign@bellsouth.net>
>>Sent: Sep 13, 2006 3:08 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
>>
>>
>>Anybody using one of these? Best size, type of yokes? Tool vendor source?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Link McGarity
>>RV6/N42GF
>>RV10/N41GF(rsvd)/#40622
>>Wellington, FL (FD38)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 43
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Bob
If you are budget constrained, I suggest you call the Yard Store
(http://www.yardstore.com/) at 1-800-888-8991 and see if they have any used
squeezers in stock. I purchased a used one at a substantial discount - it
works just fine.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 #40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 2:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Yokes
As many of you are painfully aware of my many questions, I'm getting ready
to take the plunge into the RV10 world.
I've asked several RV10 builders that are local to me their opinions about
what yokes do I need to get for my squeezer. Both replies I got was to
use a 4" and a longeron. One indicated that while he had a 3", he didn't
use it.
Today, I got the following response from Avery:
"Hi Bob, You need the 7730 three inch yoke. It is the one you will use the
most. Change the 7555 into the 7530. That gives you one pneumatic with the
three inch yoke. Re-add the 7755 longeron yoke. That gives you three yokes,
the 7730 (part of the 7530), the 7755 longeron and the 7760 four inch
no-hole. You could try to do without the 3" yoke, but I don't recommend it.
I would leave the longeron off, before the 3 inch."
Since I have no experience to base a decision, I would like to solicit
opinions from a larger group of builders.
I am on a somewhat constrained budget, which means I'm already spending more
than my spouse is aware of at the moment. However, if it will make a
significant difference in the ease of construction, I'm not opposed to
getting the right tools.
So, what yokes do I need to purchase?
And yes, they will be attached to a pnuematic squeezer.
thanks,
bob
N410BL - RV10
N3493R - PA28-180
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Hi Res Pics? |
I did, but when resized, they look pretty sad. I did get some pics. (Thanks, Mike)
Jim C
N312F / #40192
===========================================================
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hi Res Pics?
Jim,
Try the company web sites. I got my Garmin pics from their site and
printed them to actual size. The photo quality was good enough to use as an
economical panel planner. Also got the ACS 3400/3500 pics from their site.
John Habrouck
#40264
===========================================================
Message 45
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| Subject: | The difference in Teflon wire? |
You don't want any "PTFE" wire...only "ETFE"...which is Tefzel
(crosslinked).
The "22759" number on it's own is almost worthlesss, because there is both
teflon and tefzel in that mil spec. The important number is the "slant" or
"/" numer, in this case /16...so you want to get M22759/16-xx-xx (x=the wire
size, and y=color). There are a LOT of other slant number out there, but
some are silver plating, different stranding, different conductors, etc..
Also, the 16878 number is also a good one depending on the slant
number...you can just use that main first Mil Spec number as your guide.
I'll say it again...save yourself some time and just buy it from someone who
already has done the research ----hint, hint, hint! Also, just for an FYI
or records, the mil spec for the shielded cable is M27500-TE(or
TG)2T22-xxxxxxxx which is a bunch of other gobblteygook that tells you
sizing, stranding, color, inner jacket size & type, etc...
OK, enough stumping. Teflon has several less desirable properties over
Tefzel. Michael Sausen eluded to the stripping, and that it's a lot more
slippery. I also has poor cold flow characteristics, which means in large
bundles it can and will slowly flow around things like zip ties, etc...
Anyway, go with tefzel that is the correct mil spec and you'll be fine.
Cheers,
Stein.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV Builder
>(Michael Sausen)
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:10 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire?
>
>
><rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
>Teflon can be difficult to work with. Harder to strip primarily.
>
>Michael
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 2:30 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire?
>
>--> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Tim,
>
>I noticed form your web site that you recommend Wire Masters.
>
>Do you know the difference between the two types of Teflon wire:
>
>Teflon 22759-PTFE
>(Polytetrafloroethylene)
>Teflon 16878 -PTFE
>
>The numbers mean nothing to me.
>
>Thanks,
>
>John G.
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
I'm not sure. Some kind of resin according to the guy. Accessories like
antennas and prop are made out of wood, metal, etc.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
Jesse,
What are those ones made from?
JOhn G.
>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 13:18:17 -0500
>
>
>I have also had a guy in Ecuador make some of them. I can post pictures if
>you want them. With shipping, it should be about $150 painted. All he
>needs is pictures of details and the 3 views to do it. It should take
>about
>a month or maybe a little more for delivery.
>
>You can contact me off the list for the info if you want.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 11:58 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>
>
>Well,,, the way I got the name and address was to buy the model from
>Tim.....But if you ask real nice I might be inclined to post it for
>everyone going this route. They are $189, and take 90 days or so to get
>painted.
>Dan
>Just trying to lighten the humor on the list after the war
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:24 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
>
><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Where do we get an original, I want to see my paint scheme on 3D.
>
>JOhn G.
>
>
> >From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
> >Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 10:03:38 -0500
> >
> >I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my
>custom
> >painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand carved
>and
> >painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh several years
>
> >ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold the original one on the
>
> >list to another builder. My wife got it for me for fathers day, and I
>have
> >had it on my desk at work, it still looks brand new. And for those
> >wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner mod installed, so it
>still
> >has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front, but my new one will have the
>4
> >bladed prop. "GRIN"
> >It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if
>anyone
> >is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
> >Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future
> >builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that
>call
> >you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC
>model.
> >Dan
> >
> > > Dan Lloyd
> >Director of Information Technology
> > > Werner Company
> > > 93 Werner Road
> > > Greenville, PA 16125
> > >
> > > lloyddr@wernerco.com
> > > 1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
> > > 1-724-988-9230 cell
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>--
>4:07 PM
>
>
>--
>4:07 PM
>
>
--
4:07 PM
--
4:07 PM
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: The difference in Teflon wire? |
Why not just order from Stein and not worry about these numbers? He's got the
stuff that you need/want... it'll be painless buying from him.
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79675#79675
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: The difference in Teflon wire? |
Uh Oh...
RV-7 guy surfing in who is a STEIN fan..... :)
FWIW....nothing against our flavofav Stein...Wiremasters has some great prices....you
just need to know how to read the specs...in that aspect....if you don't
know...call Stein.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 49
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| Subject: | wing tip lens repair |
I faintly remember discussions about removing Sharpie Ink from
plexiglass but when I do the search I am obviously not asking the right
questions; so I need help. After doing a nice job on my wing tip lenses
I stupidly grabbed some acetone to clean off the ink marks--fortunately
I only smudged a small area. Is there a way to get rid of the hazy
smudge, and what should I have used in the first place? Thanks
Jay Rowe 40301
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: wing tip lens repair |
You're pretty much stuck with it for all practical purposes, unless
you want to sand and polish it, which will leave it uneven.
Kerosene is the preferred solvent. I was also able to use
DX-33 (I think that's the right number) the PPG stuff you use
during painting to clean things, without harming the plexi, but I
didn't leave it on long.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jay Rowe wrote:
> I faintly remember discussions about removing Sharpie Ink from
> plexiglass but when I do the search I am obviously not asking the right
> questions; so I need help. After doing a nice job on my wing tip lenses
> I stupidly grabbed some acetone to clean off the ink marks--fortunately
> I only smudged a small area. Is there a way to get rid of the hazy
> smudge, and what should I have used in the first place? Thanks
> Jay Rowe 40301
>
> *
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Baggage door lock install later? |
Thanks Marcus, I'd forgotten about that. Ordered yesterday, arrived today!
Rob
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 10:40 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage door lock install later?
Try Aircraft Spruce:
ACS DOOR AND BAGGAGE LOCK SETS
P/N 11-01600 $26.60
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/igswitches.php
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 10:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage door lock install later?
Good timing on the topic. I'm not putting in a rotary magneto keyswitch so
I'm looking for a good source for a lock that fits the baggage door. Lowe's
didn't have any with the right tabbed washer setup.
Rob
#392
Baggage door
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage door lock install later?
No problem doing it later. Carry on.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Chris Johnston wrote:
> hey all -
>
> stupid question... you can install the baggage door lock later
> right? you can fit it through the hole no problem? i don't have it
> in my hand to be able to see, and i want to make sure i'm not
> screwing myself.
>
> thanks!
>
> cj
>
> #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
> do not archive
Message 52
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| Subject: | routing wires from rudder |
I decided to put in a rudder trim and am looking at how to run the servo
wires for it and the tail light/strobe into the fuselage.
Where has everyone penetrated the Vertical Stab rear spar to run wires?
Are there structural concerns? What size hole and I presume snap bushing?
Wherever that point is, do you run the wires through the Rudder leading
edge directly opposite, or is it better for the points to be staggered
by several inches so to be easier on the wire?
Regarding rudder trim, I modeled what I've seen so far but I think my
approach was a bit different in that I mounted the servo on the
starboard side of the skin, while the rod protruded from the port
side. My thought was that steeper angle shortened the slot I had to
cut in the skin for the rod, and possibly less exposed to the slip stream.
Also, I have no other RV builders in Fergus Falls, MN (FFM) anyone
should stop in anytime and tell me how I'm doing.
Jay Wik #40536
Wings started.
Message 53
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| Subject: | Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
I understand that most flying builders have left the wheel pants & leg
fairings off during their Stage 1. And some have not installed them
until after flying. It appears that the alignment of these can be
critical to the aircrafts top speed and overall handling. The plans call
for raising the aircraft off the ground to facilitate the install. If
this is the case, wouldn't it be better to install the pants & leg
fairings BEFORE the engine gets hung? Would it help to ensure a better
alignment? Does it make it easier / less time? From Tim' site it's
obvious that they can be added later, for those of you who added them
later, if you had it to do over again would you do them earlier? What
about the other way around (those who did earlier)?
My engine ships tomorrow, and I'm putting it on it's gear tomorrow ,
debating whether to hang the engine when it arrives next week, or let it
sit, while I do the Pants and Fairings.
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Want to see some pics of MY BPE IO-540-X w/ CAS?
http://deemsrv10.com/album/My%20BPE%20IO-540-X%20w%20CAS/index.html
8-)
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
Deems,
After talking with Russ Daves he was adamant about putting them on before you do
the wings, why not prior to the engine? Datum line should not differ if the
engine is on or off right?
IMHO
Rick S.
40185
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
How are you going to fit the nose gear fairings without the cowl in place?
How do you fit the cowl without the engine in place. Main gear pants and
fairings probably should be fitted without the wings for easy access.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently
seeking )
>
> Deems,
>
> After talking with Russ Daves he was adamant about putting them on before
> you do the wings, why not prior to the engine? Datum line should not
> differ if the engine is on or off right?
>
> IMHO
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
>
>
>
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
Raising the entire airframe without the 400 + lbs of engine would be a
lot easier also.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rick wrote:
>
>Deems,
>
>After talking with Russ Daves he was adamant about putting them on before you
do the wings, why not prior to the engine? Datum line should not differ if the
engine is on or off right?
>
>IMHO
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>
>
>
Message 57
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| Subject: | The difference in Teflon wire? |
Thank you for your time.
I have your number too, and I planned on contacting you for several items
and this may be another.
JOhn G.
>From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein@steinair.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire?
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 16:53:57 -0600
>
>
>You don't want any "PTFE" wire...only "ETFE"...which is Tefzel
>(crosslinked).
>
>The "22759" number on it's own is almost worthlesss, because there is both
>teflon and tefzel in that mil spec. The important number is the "slant" or
>"/" numer, in this case /16...so you want to get M22759/16-xx-xx (x=the
>wire
>size, and y=color). There are a LOT of other slant number out there, but
>some are silver plating, different stranding, different conductors, etc..
>
>Also, the 16878 number is also a good one depending on the slant
>number...you can just use that main first Mil Spec number as your guide.
>I'll say it again...save yourself some time and just buy it from someone
>who
>already has done the research ----hint, hint, hint! Also, just for an FYI
>or records, the mil spec for the shielded cable is M27500-TE(or
>TG)2T22-xxxxxxxx which is a bunch of other gobblteygook that tells you
>sizing, stranding, color, inner jacket size & type, etc...
>
>OK, enough stumping. Teflon has several less desirable properties over
>Tefzel. Michael Sausen eluded to the stripping, and that it's a lot more
>slippery. I also has poor cold flow characteristics, which means in large
>bundles it can and will slowly flow around things like zip ties, etc...
>
>Anyway, go with tefzel that is the correct mil spec and you'll be fine.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein.
>
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV Builder
> >(Michael Sausen)
> >Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:10 PM
> >To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire?
> >
> >
> ><rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> >
> >Teflon can be difficult to work with. Harder to strip primarily.
> >
> >Michael
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
> >Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 2:30 PM
> >To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire?
> >
> >--> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> >
> >Tim,
> >
> >I noticed form your web site that you recommend Wire Masters.
> >
> >Do you know the difference between the two types of Teflon wire:
> >
> >Teflon 22759-PTFE
> >(Polytetrafloroethylene)
> >Teflon 16878 -PTFE
> >
> >The numbers mean nothing to me.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >John G.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 58
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| Subject: | QB access into side panels below door rim. |
Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Put in three hours tonight and am back on track.
Thanks a ton..
JOhn G
Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an
experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys
burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo stuff
melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too bad.,
The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet of does
just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame
The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed.
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: wing tip lens repair |
Well, the best advice is to not get the sharpie on the lens where it can
be seen!!! ;-)
But, since you're past that, you might be able to polish it out with
some toothpaste, or some paint compound from the auto parts store.
It'll take some elbow grease, but refrain from using to large a grit
..... this is best done slowly.
Linn
do not archive
Jay Rowe wrote:
> I faintly remember discussions about removing Sharpie Ink from
> plexiglass but when I do the search I am obviously not asking the
> right questions; so I need help. After doing a nice job on my wing tip
> lenses I stupidly grabbed some acetone to clean off the ink
> marks--fortunately I only smudged a small area. Is there a way to get
> rid of the hazy smudge, and what should I have used in the first
> place? Thanks
> Jay Rowe 40301
>
>
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
Deems-
Not many of us has data on this subject because once in place that is the way we
fly - without experimenting toward improvement. Some thoughts:
The main leg fairing orientation seems to be important for rudder trim. Everytime
I cycle them off/on the rudder trim needs adjustment. I have seen this three
times. Note that the attach holes in the mating intersection fairings were never
modified after initial install.
Another thought is during flight the main gear legs will have no weight and be
positioned somewhat differently if the fairings are installed with all the weight
on the legs.
I have a hunch that getting the alignment perfect it is uncontrollable and only
becomes important when you believe the necessary rudder trim has become excessive.
The ball in my slip/skid is approx 1/4" in diameter and I needed to trim
out half this diameter.
Bill DeRouchey
billderou@yahoo.com
Grounded until I complete Rev B
Raising the entire airframe without the 400 + lbs of engine would be a
lot easier also.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rick wrote:
>
>Deems,
>
>After talking with Russ Daves he was adamant about putting them on before you
do the wings, why not prior to the engine? Datum line should not differ if the
engine is on or off right?
>
>IMHO
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>
>
>
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