Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:46 AM - Re: wing tip lens repair (David Boone)
2. 03:45 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Mark Ritter)
3. 04:34 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Wayne Edgerton)
4. 04:59 AM - Re: Installing fairings (Wayne Edgerton)
5. 06:05 AM - Re: routing wires from rudder (Jesse Saint)
6. 06:12 AM - Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
7. 06:12 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Jesse Saint)
8. 06:19 AM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
9. 06:22 AM - Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
10. 06:59 AM - Cleaning Parts (Steve Stella)
11. 07:11 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seek ing ) (ddddsp1@juno.com)
12. 07:18 AM - Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 07:24 AM - Re: Hi Res Pics? (Jerry Grimmonpre)
14. 07:34 AM - Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (John Gonzalez)
15. 08:07 AM - Re: computer geeks ()
16. 08:22 AM - Re: Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. ()
17. 09:01 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (John Testement)
18. 09:20 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Jeff Carpenter)
19. 09:33 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Steve Stella)
20. 09:40 AM - Re: Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (John Gonzalez)
21. 09:47 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Rick)
22. 09:50 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Steve Stella)
23. 10:23 AM - Re: Hi Res Pics? (John Hasbrouck)
24. 10:41 AM - Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (Tim Olson)
25. 11:11 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Steve Stella)
26. 11:32 AM - Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Chris In Madison)
27. 01:11 PM - Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Tim Olson)
28. 01:53 PM - Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Vern W. Smith)
29. 03:25 PM - Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Jack Sargeant)
30. 05:48 PM - Re: The difference in Teflon wire? (linn Walters)
31. 06:09 PM - Hot off the CNC! (zackrv8)
32. 08:23 PM - Re: Eggenfellner (Dave Leikam)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: wing tip lens repair |
Try Flitz at www.flitz.com, it worked great for me. Expensive at $22 for
5 oz, but worth it. David O Boone
----- Original Message -----
From: linn Walters
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: wing tip lens repair
Well, the best advice is to not get the sharpie on the lens where it
can be seen!!! ;-)
But, since you're past that, you might be able to polish it out with
some toothpaste, or some paint compound from the auto parts store.
It'll take some elbow grease, but refrain from using to large a grit
..... this is best done slowly.
Linn
do not archive
Jay Rowe wrote:
I faintly remember discussions about removing Sharpie Ink from
plexiglass but when I do the search I am obviously not asking the right
questions; so I need help. After doing a nice job on my wing tip lenses
I stupidly grabbed some acetone to clean off the ink marks--fortunately
I only smudged a small area. Is there a way to get rid of the hazy
smudge, and what should I have used in the first place? Thanks
Jay Rowe 40301
Message 2
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| Subject: | Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
I did the gear leg and wheel fairings after flying off Phase 1 hours (40).
May help engine break in having more drag. I used the wing tie down points
to jack up the plane to get the weight off the main gear. After
considerable pain and agony measuring and re-measuring alignment I have come
to the conclusion that attaining perfect alignment is more a matter of luck
than skill.
Its not a fun job for an old guy crawling under the wing time after time
after time and one that's easy to put off once you are flying. If you are
not chomping at the bit to fly and not worried about engine break-in it
would be considerably easier to do the main gear before installing the
wings. I believe you will need the engine and cowling on for the front gear
fairings.
I"ll be installing rudder trim when the plane gets out of the paint shop
(half a ball out to the right). Wish I had done it before painting - to
many other projects and didn't want to lose my position at the paint shop.
Mark (N410MR)
>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently
>seeking )
>Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2006 22:17:17 -0700
>
>
>I understand that most flying builders have left the wheel pants & leg
>fairings off during their Stage 1. And some have not installed them until
>after flying. It appears that the alignment of these can be critical to the
>aircrafts top speed and overall handling. The plans call for raising the
>aircraft off the ground to facilitate the install. If this is the case,
>wouldn't it be better to install the pants & leg fairings BEFORE the engine
>gets hung? Would it help to ensure a better alignment? Does it make it
>easier / less time? From Tim' site it's obvious that they can be added
>later, for those of you who added them later, if you had it to do over
>again would you do them earlier? What about the other way around (those who
>did earlier)?
>My engine ships tomorrow, and I'm putting it on it's gear tomorrow ,
>debating whether to hang the engine when it arrives next week, or let it
>sit, while I do the Pants and Fairings.
>
>THANKS
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>Want to see some pics of MY BPE IO-540-X w/ CAS?
>
>http://deemsrv10.com/album/My%20BPE%20IO-540-X%20w%20CAS/index.html
>
>8-)
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Talk now to your Hotmail contacts with Windows Live Messenger.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
I've got my fairings installed and I would definitely put them on before
you install the wings. The engine being mounted, mine is, wasn't really
an issue for me. Your going to love this job, it was a little work to
get this done or at least it was for me.
I've attached a couple of picture so you can see how much easier it is
to get at the main gear fairings without having to crawl under the wing.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Installing fairings |
You could fit the nose gear fairing without the engine, it might even be
a little easier, but it's really not a big deal with the engine on. You
have to have the engine in place and the prop on or at least a prop
plate in place to be able to properly fit the cowling. Definitely much
easier to the install main gear fairings without having to crawl under
the wing.
Wayne Edgerton # 40336
pluggin away - someday :>}
How are you going to fit the nose gear fairings without the cowl in
place?
How do you fit the cowl without the engine in place. Main gear pants and
fairings probably should be fitted without the wings for easy access.
Message 5
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| Subject: | routing wires from rudder |
I think the Wiring Harness instructions have you drilling a hole just below
the bottom bracket that the rudder bolts onto, which puts the hole through
the top of the tie-down support. This requires a snap bushing in from
either side because of the thickness, but it is a great location since the
rudder bottom fairing is right there. We also used silicone of some sort to
hold the wires and snap bushings in place and to provide some strain relief.
It also avoids the need to route wires up and through the VS if you were to
put them in at one of the other brackets.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Wik
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 11:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: routing wires from rudder
I decided to put in a rudder trim and am looking at how to run the servo
wires for it and the tail light/strobe into the fuselage.
Where has everyone penetrated the Vertical Stab rear spar to run wires?
Are there structural concerns? What size hole and I presume snap bushing?
Wherever that point is, do you run the wires through the Rudder leading
edge directly opposite, or is it better for the points to be staggered
by several inches so to be easier on the wire?
Regarding rudder trim, I modeled what I've seen so far but I think my
approach was a bit different in that I mounted the servo on the
starboard side of the skin, while the rod protruded from the port
side. My thought was that steeper angle shortened the slot I had to
cut in the skin for the rod, and possibly less exposed to the slip stream.
Also, I have no other RV builders in Fergus Falls, MN (FFM) anyone
should stop in anytime and tell me how I'm doing.
Jay Wik #40536
Wings started.
--
1:27 AM
--
1:27 AM
Message 6
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| Subject: | QB access into side panels below door rim. |
The fiber optic conduit that I used (along with Tim and others) should
be plenum rated. This basically means it has a coating on it that
increases the temp at which it ignites and also emits less fumes. I
used the poly pipe in the wings where I'm not as concerned about it.
All of my stuff is still in boxes otherwise I would run a fire test on
the conduit. Maybe Tim want's to light some up.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim.
--> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Put in three hours tonight and am back on track.
Thanks a ton..
JOhn G
Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an
experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys
burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo
stuff melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too
bad., The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet
of does
just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame
The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
I think the best way would be to fit them prior and then leave them off for
the fly-off, whether leaving the brackets on or off (up to you). It is good
to be able to check pressure regularly and monitor everything during the
first 25-40 hours, and taking the pants off to do that can be a pain. Also,
it slows you down quite a bit (as much as 18Kts in our experience), so you
don't reach that outer radius ring as quickly, which helps a little bit when
testing systems and stuff.
If you are doing it without the wings on, then without the engine makes
sense. You should be able to install the nose fairing without the cowl.
The cowl will need to be trimmed around it anyway. After the wings and
engine, just jacking up on the tie-down supports should get the wheels high
enough to work on the fairings. Since you will need to be able to jack it
up later anyway with the engine on, then I don't see any difference. It
certainly is easier without the wings on for the mains and without the
engine for the nose gear to work around that area.
Overall, I would say if you have time it is good to get them fit before
flying because it will be a pain to take the time once you are flying,
because they can take a lot of time to work with. Also, you can paint them
when you are painting everything else (if you paint before you fly, that is,
which I recommend), which can save some hastle.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently
seeking )
I understand that most flying builders have left the wheel pants & leg
fairings off during their Stage 1. And some have not installed them
until after flying. It appears that the alignment of these can be
critical to the aircrafts top speed and overall handling. The plans call
for raising the aircraft off the ground to facilitate the install. If
this is the case, wouldn't it be better to install the pants & leg
fairings BEFORE the engine gets hung? Would it help to ensure a better
alignment? Does it make it easier / less time? From Tim' site it's
obvious that they can be added later, for those of you who added them
later, if you had it to do over again would you do them earlier? What
about the other way around (those who did earlier)?
My engine ships tomorrow, and I'm putting it on it's gear tomorrow ,
debating whether to hang the engine when it arrives next week, or let it
sit, while I do the Pants and Fairings.
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Want to see some pics of MY BPE IO-540-X w/ CAS?
http://deemsrv10.com/album/My%20BPE%20IO-540-X%20w%20CAS/index.html
8-)
--
1:27 AM
--
1:27 AM
Message 8
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| Subject: | Following in Tim's tradition |
The model has been sold to the next builder, and hopefully he will
follow in the tradition and be offering it up for sale again in a year,
so we can keep passing the torch.
Dan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition
I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my
custom painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand
carved and painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh
several years ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold the
original one on the list to another builder. My wife got it for me for
fathers day, and I have had it on my desk at work, it still looks brand
new. And for those wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner mod
installed, so it still has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front, but my
new one will have the 4 bladed prop. "GRIN"
It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if
anyone is interested, I will sell it for a good discount.
Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future
builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that call
you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC
model.
Dan
Dan Lloyd
Director of Information Technology
Werner Company
93 Werner Road
Greenville, PA 16125
lloyddr@wernerco.com <mailto:lloyddr@wernerco.com>
1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
1-724-988-9230 cell
Message 9
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| Subject: | QB access into side panels below door rim. |
Use Fiber Optic Cable ducting that is plenum rated, if it ever burns, it
is rated to be non-toxic as it is used in an air return plenum in the
building.
I had some laying around from a cabling job and took Tim's advice. You
could probably call some of the local computer network guys and they
would have what you need laying around.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 1:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim.
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Put in three hours tonight and am back on track.
Thanks a ton..
JOhn G
Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an
experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys
burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo
stuff
melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too bad.,
The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet of
does
just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame
The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed.
Message 10
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|
I've just completed my first set of parts for my vertical stabilizer and I'm
ready to prime. I'm using Akzo Nobel Epoxy Primer, what is a good cleaner to
use before priming.
Steve
Do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seek |
ing )
Deems,
Do the pants NOW before you hang the engine. You will get it done with
less hassle working around/under those wings and engine. Plus you will
get them on straighter. Ask VAN himself, he put his on BEFORE he hung t
he engine and wings! If the BOSS does it that way its good enough for m
e. LOL
DEAN 40449
________________________________________________________________________
<html><P>Deems,</P>
<P>Do the pants NOW before you hang the engine. You will get it do
ne with less hassle working around/under those wings and engine. P
lus you will get them on straighter. Ask VAN himself, he put his o
n BEFORE he hung the engine and wings! If the BOSS does it that wa
y its good enough for me. LOL</P>
<P>DEAN 40449</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
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Message 12
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| Subject: | QB access into side panels below door rim. |
Man we have too many computer geeks on this list. ;-)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 8:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim.
--> <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
Use Fiber Optic Cable ducting that is plenum rated, if it ever burns, it
is rated to be non-toxic as it is used in an air return plenum in the
building.
I had some laying around from a cabling job and took Tim's advice. You
could probably call some of the local computer network guys and they
would have what you need laying around.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 1:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim.
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Put in three hours tonight and am back on track.
Thanks a ton..
JOhn G
Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an
experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys
burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo
stuff melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too
bad.,
The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet of
does
just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame
The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Hi Res Pics? |
John ...
I have not kept-up this thread ... please state the company you refer to
when you say "their site" ... do you mean Garmin's site?
Many thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV8 electric
>
> Jim,
> Try the company web sites. I got my Garmin pics from their site and
> printed them to actual size. The photo quality was good enough to use as
> an economical panel planner. Also got the ACS 3400/3500 pics from their
> site.
>
> John Habrouck
> #40264
Message 14
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| Subject: | QB access into side panels below door rim. |
Can one of you guys light some up with the stove or a soldering torch.
Where do you get this stuff if I don't use the irrigation tubing. Light up
one of those snap bushing and tell me what the difference would be if the
wires got worn on one of them and lit it(for those not using conduit). I
bet it burns.
JOhnG
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim.
>Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 09:20:40 -0500
>
>
>Use Fiber Optic Cable ducting that is plenum rated, if it ever burns, it
>is rated to be non-toxic as it is used in an air return plenum in the
>building.
>I had some laying around from a cabling job and took Tim's advice. You
>could probably call some of the local computer network guys and they
>would have what you need laying around.
>Dan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 1:08 AM
>To: Rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim.
>
><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>Put in three hours tonight and am back on track.
>
>Thanks a ton..
>
>JOhn G
>
>Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an
>experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys
>burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo
>stuff
>melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too bad.,
>
>The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet of
>does
>just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame
>
>The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed.
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: computer geeks |
Hey! I resemble that statement....
Or maybe all us IT guys have great taste in aircraft?
>>
> Man we have too many computer geeks on this list. ;-)
>
> Do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. |
> Where do you get this stuff if I don't use the irrigation tubing.
Here's a source:
http://onlinecatalog.anixter.com/SearchResultsServlet?QUERY=BROWSE&CATALOGID 04032900100000000&SECTIONID 04032900100004000&SUBSECTIONID 04032900100004006&SUBSECTIONNAME=Innerduct
I didn't check to see what the smallest increment you could purchase. If you have
to buy the entire reel, you'll have plenty for all your friends. :^)
Message 17
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Steve,
If you don't go the Alumiprep/Alodine route the best is MEK but it's
more
toxic than others. You could also probably use lacquer thinner, acetone
or
denatured alcohol (the safest) I have them all on the shelf. Be sure to
scuff well with scotchbrite. Some like to wash with mild detergent
(Dove)
before using a cleaner.
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - wheel fairings, cowl prep
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Stella
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
I=92ve just completed my first set of parts for my vertical stabilizer
and I=92m
ready to prime. I=92m using Akzo Nobel Epoxy Primer, what is a good
cleaner to
use before priming.
Steve
Do not archive
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12/7/2006
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Parts |
Alumiprep... I believe it's available from Aircraft Spruce.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Dec 7, 2006, at 6:48 AM, Steve Stella wrote:
> I=92ve just completed my first set of parts for my vertical
> stabilizer and I=92m ready to prime. I=92m using Akzo Nobel Epoxy
> Primer, what is a good cleaner to use before priming.
>
>
> Steve
>
>
> Do not archive
>
Annual
> ========================
List
> ========================
>
Message 19
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Thanks John I appreciate it.
Steve
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 11:56 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
Steve,
If you don't go the Alumiprep/Alodine route the best is MEK but it's more
toxic than others. You could also probably use lacquer thinner, acetone or
denatured alcohol (the safest) I have them all on the shelf. Be sure to
scuff well with scotchbrite. Some like to wash with mild detergent (Dove)
before using a cleaner.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - wheel fairings, cowl prep
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Stella
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
I've just completed my first set of parts for my vertical stabilizer and I'm
ready to prime. I'm using Akzo Nobel Epoxy Primer, what is a good cleaner to
use before priming.
Steve
Do not archive
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
-- No virus found in this Edition.
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12/7/2006
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. |
I won't need one inch diameter. Thinking I am going to use something else
or go with what I have 3/4 inch.
Thanks.
JOhn G
Do Not Archive
>From: <rvmail@thelefflers.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim.
>Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 11:19:43 -0500
>
>
> > Where do you get this stuff if I don't use the irrigation tubing.
>
>Here's a source:
>
>http://onlinecatalog.anixter.com/SearchResultsServlet?QUERY=BROWSE&CATALOGID 04032900100000000&SECTIONID 04032900100004000&SUBSECTIONID 04032900100004006&SUBSECTIONNAME=Innerduct
>
>I didn't check to see what the smallest increment you could purchase. If
>you have to buy the entire reel, you'll have plenty for all your friends.
>:^)
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Parts |
Alumaprep is probably the best for "really" cleaning the parts it's a mild acid
that etch's and cleans but if your not planning on alodining it can be overkill.
I scuffed with the red scotchbrite pads and cleaned and degread with laquer
thinner or MEK.
MEK gases off slower than the thinner so it's better for large parts, small ones
laquer thinner works good as does denatured alcohol, as the previous post said
is the least toxic of the group, just make sure your in a well ventilated area
and keep it off your skin. Drys out your hands something awful let alone the
absorbtion factor. Open flame is NOT your friend here!!
Rick S.
40185
Message 22
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Thanks Jeff
Steve
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
Alumiprep... I believe it's available from Aircraft Spruce.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Dec 7, 2006, at 6:48 AM, Steve Stella wrote:
I've just completed my first set of parts for my vertical stabilizer and I'm
ready to prime. I'm using Akzo Nobel Epoxy Primer, what is a good cleaner to
use before priming.
Steve
Do not archive
* The Builder's Bookstore <http://www.buildersbooks.com>
www.buildersbooks.com * HomebuiltHELP <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
www.homebuilthelp.com Thank you for your generous
class="Apple-converted-space"> - The
RV10-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space"> -->
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Hi Res Pics? |
Jerry,
Sorry 'bout that. I was referring to the Advanced Flight Systems web
site for the ACS3400/3500 pics.
John
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. |
Well, most boys are pyros at birth....I think I'll have to go cut
me a piece here and see what happens. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> The fiber optic conduit that I used (along with Tim and others) should
> be plenum rated. This basically means it has a coating on it that
> increases the temp at which it ignites and also emits less fumes. I
> used the poly pipe in the wings where I'm not as concerned about it.
> All of my stuff is still in boxes otherwise I would run a fire test on
> the conduit. Maybe Tim want's to light some up.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:08 AM
> To: Rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim.
>
> --> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Put in three hours tonight and am back on track.
>
> Thanks a ton..
>
> JOhn G
>
> Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an
> experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys
> burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo
> stuff melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too
> bad., The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet
> of does
> just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame
>
> The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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Alumaprep and MEK seems to cleaner of choice. Thanks Rick.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
Alumaprep is probably the best for "really" cleaning the parts it's a mild
acid that etch's and cleans but if your not planning on alodining it can be
overkill. I scuffed with the red scotchbrite pads and cleaned and degread
with laquer thinner or MEK.
MEK gases off slower than the thinner so it's better for large parts, small
ones laquer thinner works good as does denatured alcohol, as the previous
post said is the least toxic of the group, just make sure your in a well
ventilated area and keep it off your skin. Drys out your hands something
awful let alone the absorbtion factor. Open flame is NOT your friend here!!
Rick S.
40185
Message 26
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| Subject: | Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
Saw your RV-10 in the Completions section of Sport Aviation this month. Congratulations
for finally making it in there! You've been done for how long? Same
situation for one of my EAA Chapter-mates Larry Landucci with his CH-801. He's
been done for quite some time and they finally got around to getting his plane
in there. And they didn't get the description right... Oh well, at least
y'all are in there :-)
Best regards,
Chris
--------
Chris Owens
Waunakee, WI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79913#79913
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
Thanks Chris,
It was nice to finally see an RV-10 in the magazine. It was hard
for me to believe all of these RV-10's were flying before me but
I never saw one there, so I sent mine in. Months later it
shows up. The jury is still out on Kitplanes though.....I can't
believe they can't get it in faster, as the magazine isn't that
thick to start with. Adding a couple of pages of completions
would really get them caught up quick I'd think.
I got done 2/12/06.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Chris In Madison wrote:
>
> Saw your RV-10 in the Completions section of Sport Aviation this
> month. Congratulations for finally making it in there! You've been
> done for how long? Same situation for one of my EAA Chapter-mates
> Larry Landucci with his CH-801. He's been done for quite some time
> and they finally got around to getting his plane in there. And they
> didn't get the description right... Oh well, at least y'all are in
> there :-)
>
> Best regards, Chris
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
I think your supposed to reserved the placement about the same time you
reserves an N number:)
Vern (#324 fuselage)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
Thanks Chris,
It was nice to finally see an RV-10 in the magazine. It was hard
for me to believe all of these RV-10's were flying before me but
I never saw one there, so I sent mine in. Months later it
shows up. The jury is still out on Kitplanes though.....I can't
believe they can't get it in faster, as the magazine isn't that
thick to start with. Adding a couple of pages of completions
would really get them caught up quick I'd think.
I got done 2/12/06.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Chris In Madison wrote:
>
> Saw your RV-10 in the Completions section of Sport Aviation this
> month. Congratulations for finally making it in there! You've been
> done for how long? Same situation for one of my EAA Chapter-mates
> Larry Landucci with his CH-801. He's been done for quite some time
> and they finally got around to getting his plane in there. And they
> didn't get the description right... Oh well, at least y'all are in
> there :-)
>
> Best regards, Chris
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
My N-number has been reserved for 3 years, and I haven't got the shop ready,
bought the tools, or ordered the first kit yet. (I got the renewal notice
in yesterday's mail and the wife said "renew it!")
Jack & Cecilia Sargeant
1127 Patricia St.
Wichita, KS 67208-2642
316/683-5268
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vern W. Smith
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
I think your supposed to reserved the placement about the same time you
reserves an N number:)
Vern (#324 fuselage)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
Thanks Chris,
It was nice to finally see an RV-10 in the magazine. It was hard
for me to believe all of these RV-10's were flying before me but
I never saw one there, so I sent mine in. Months later it
shows up. The jury is still out on Kitplanes though.....I can't
believe they can't get it in faster, as the magazine isn't that
thick to start with. Adding a couple of pages of completions
would really get them caught up quick I'd think.
I got done 2/12/06.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Chris In Madison wrote:
>
> Saw your RV-10 in the Completions section of Sport Aviation this
> month. Congratulations for finally making it in there! You've been
> done for how long? Same situation for one of my EAA Chapter-mates
> Larry Landucci with his CH-801. He's been done for quite some time
> and they finally got around to getting his plane in there. And they
> didn't get the description right... Oh well, at least y'all are in
> there :-)
>
> Best regards, Chris
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: The difference in Teflon wire? |
To help strip teflon (or any other slippery insulation) once the
insulation is cut, use a large alligator boot to grip the insulation so
you can pull it off. Or get one of the nifty automatic strippers
that'll cut an pul;l off the insulation all in one lick.
Linn
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>Teflon can be difficult to work with. Harder to strip primarily.
>
>Michael
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 2:30 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire?
>
>--> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Tim,
>
>I noticed form your web site that you recommend Wire Masters.
>
>Do you know the difference between the two types of Teflon wire:
>
>Teflon 22759-PTFE
>(Polytetrafloroethylene)
>Teflon 16878 -PTFE
>
>The numbers mean nothing to me.
>
>Thanks,
>
>John G.
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Hot off the CNC! |
Guys,
Dave just made a door handle for the RV10. It fits the existing RV10 handle
assembly perfect. Like the other RV canopy handles he makes, it mounts with just
2 set screws. No need to put the large screw in the front.
We put this on tonight to check the fit. I already had the existing holes drilled
for Vans handle. We slid the new handle on, torqued both set screws, removed
the handle, center punched were the set screws made marks, and put the handle
back on. The center punch makes little divots were the set screws go and
this handle does not rotate. I tried pretty hard...but it doesn't rotate.
Good to go.
Dave is making an aluminum insert that replaces Van's plastic cap. He says it
will be a press fit. Just tap it in. I'll post a pic when I get it.
If you are interested in these handles, you can call Dave at 302-437-6087 or
email him at his new email address.. dczachorowski@comcast.net
Check out the pics below...
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79987#79987
Attachments:
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http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06648_135.jpg
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Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Eggenfellner |
Just kidding!
I just couldn't resist. O.K. , build on!
Dave
40496
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:38 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Eggenfellner
>
> Ok now lets talk about rotaries. What do you think??? ROFLMAO. O<)))
>
> Bob K
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:12 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Eggenfellner
>
>
> You are right - gather as much (good) information as you can and make a
> decision. Was just wondering is there a point when you reach information
> overload?
>
> Mark (N410MR)
>
>
>>From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Eggenfellner
>>Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 18:02:01 -0700
>>
>>
>>Hmmmm
>>
>>Mark, be careful what you ask for, .....
>>
>>Anyway, as the originator of this thread, what I wanted was info. I
>>readily
>>admit that I *knew* little about the issues related to engine selection.
>>As
>>a new builder that has a multitude of choices & decisions looming in the
>>future, this is one I wanted to start considering sooner rather than
>>later.
>>
>>I do say many, many thanks to all who commented. I have a much better
>>appreciation of the factors / decision points / considerations involved.
>>
>>Cheers
>>
>>Les Kearney
>>RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
>>Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 5:33 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Eggenfellner
>>
>>
>>All I want for Christmas is to have this subject go away. How many ways
>>can
>>
>>you beat a dead horse?
>>
>>Mark (N410MR)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> View Athlete's Collections with Live Search
> http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06&FORM=MGAC01
>
>
>
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