---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 12/07/06: 32 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:46 AM - Re: wing tip lens repair (David Boone) 2. 03:45 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Mark Ritter) 3. 04:34 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Wayne Edgerton) 4. 04:59 AM - Re: Installing fairings (Wayne Edgerton) 5. 06:05 AM - Re: routing wires from rudder (Jesse Saint) 6. 06:12 AM - Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 7. 06:12 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Jesse Saint) 8. 06:19 AM - Re: Following in Tim's tradition (Lloyd, Daniel R.) 9. 06:22 AM - Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (Lloyd, Daniel R.) 10. 06:59 AM - Cleaning Parts (Steve Stella) 11. 07:11 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seek ing ) (ddddsp1@juno.com) 12. 07:18 AM - Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 13. 07:24 AM - Re: Hi Res Pics? (Jerry Grimmonpre) 14. 07:34 AM - Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (John Gonzalez) 15. 08:07 AM - Re: computer geeks () 16. 08:22 AM - Re: Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. () 17. 09:01 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (John Testement) 18. 09:20 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Jeff Carpenter) 19. 09:33 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Steve Stella) 20. 09:40 AM - Re: Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (John Gonzalez) 21. 09:47 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Rick) 22. 09:50 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Steve Stella) 23. 10:23 AM - Re: Hi Res Pics? (John Hasbrouck) 24. 10:41 AM - Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (Tim Olson) 25. 11:11 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Steve Stella) 26. 11:32 AM - Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Chris In Madison) 27. 01:11 PM - Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Tim Olson) 28. 01:53 PM - Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Vern W. Smith) 29. 03:25 PM - Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Jack Sargeant) 30. 05:48 PM - Re: The difference in Teflon wire? (linn Walters) 31. 06:09 PM - Hot off the CNC! (zackrv8) 32. 08:23 PM - Re: Eggenfellner (Dave Leikam) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:46:26 AM PST US From: "David Boone" Subject: Re: RV10-List: wing tip lens repair Try Flitz at www.flitz.com, it worked great for me. Expensive at $22 for 5 oz, but worth it. David O Boone ----- Original Message ----- From: linn Walters To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 11:13 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: wing tip lens repair Well, the best advice is to not get the sharpie on the lens where it can be seen!!! ;-) But, since you're past that, you might be able to polish it out with some toothpaste, or some paint compound from the auto parts store. It'll take some elbow grease, but refrain from using to large a grit ..... this is best done slowly. Linn do not archive Jay Rowe wrote: I faintly remember discussions about removing Sharpie Ink from plexiglass but when I do the search I am obviously not asking the right questions; so I need help. After doing a nice job on my wing tip lenses I stupidly grabbed some acetone to clean off the ink marks--fortunately I only smudged a small area. Is there a way to get rid of the hazy smudge, and what should I have used in the first place? Thanks Jay Rowe 40301 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:45:32 AM PST US From: "Mark Ritter" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) I did the gear leg and wheel fairings after flying off Phase 1 hours (40). May help engine break in having more drag. I used the wing tie down points to jack up the plane to get the weight off the main gear. After considerable pain and agony measuring and re-measuring alignment I have come to the conclusion that attaining perfect alignment is more a matter of luck than skill. Its not a fun job for an old guy crawling under the wing time after time after time and one that's easy to put off once you are flying. If you are not chomping at the bit to fly and not worried about engine break-in it would be considerably easier to do the main gear before installing the wings. I believe you will need the engine and cowling on for the front gear fairings. I"ll be installing rudder trim when the plane gets out of the paint shop (half a ball out to the right). Wish I had done it before painting - to many other projects and didn't want to lose my position at the paint shop. Mark (N410MR) >From: Deems Davis >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently >seeking ) >Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2006 22:17:17 -0700 > > >I understand that most flying builders have left the wheel pants & leg >fairings off during their Stage 1. And some have not installed them until >after flying. It appears that the alignment of these can be critical to the >aircrafts top speed and overall handling. The plans call for raising the >aircraft off the ground to facilitate the install. If this is the case, >wouldn't it be better to install the pants & leg fairings BEFORE the engine >gets hung? Would it help to ensure a better alignment? Does it make it >easier / less time? From Tim' site it's obvious that they can be added >later, for those of you who added them later, if you had it to do over >again would you do them earlier? What about the other way around (those who >did earlier)? >My engine ships tomorrow, and I'm putting it on it's gear tomorrow , >debating whether to hang the engine when it arrives next week, or let it >sit, while I do the Pants and Fairings. > >THANKS > >Deems Davis # 406 >Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) >http://deemsrv10.com/ > > >Want to see some pics of MY BPE IO-540-X w/ CAS? > >http://deemsrv10.com/album/My%20BPE%20IO-540-X%20w%20CAS/index.html > >8-) > > _________________________________________________________________ Talk now to your Hotmail contacts with Windows Live Messenger. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:34:52 AM PST US From: "Wayne Edgerton" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) I've got my fairings installed and I would definitely put them on before you install the wings. The engine being mounted, mine is, wasn't really an issue for me. Your going to love this job, it was a little work to get this done or at least it was for me. I've attached a couple of picture so you can see how much easier it is to get at the main gear fairings without having to crawl under the wing. Wayne Edgerton #40336 do not archive ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:59:53 AM PST US From: "Wayne Edgerton" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Installing fairings You could fit the nose gear fairing without the engine, it might even be a little easier, but it's really not a big deal with the engine on. You have to have the engine in place and the prop on or at least a prop plate in place to be able to properly fit the cowling. Definitely much easier to the install main gear fairings without having to crawl under the wing. Wayne Edgerton # 40336 pluggin away - someday :>} How are you going to fit the nose gear fairings without the cowl in place? How do you fit the cowl without the engine in place. Main gear pants and fairings probably should be fitted without the wings for easy access. ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:05:32 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: routing wires from rudder I think the Wiring Harness instructions have you drilling a hole just below the bottom bracket that the rudder bolts onto, which puts the hole through the top of the tie-down support. This requires a snap bushing in from either side because of the thickness, but it is a great location since the rudder bottom fairing is right there. We also used silicone of some sort to hold the wires and snap bushings in place and to provide some strain relief. It also avoids the need to route wires up and through the VS if you were to put them in at one of the other brackets. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Wik Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 11:32 PM Subject: RV10-List: routing wires from rudder I decided to put in a rudder trim and am looking at how to run the servo wires for it and the tail light/strobe into the fuselage. Where has everyone penetrated the Vertical Stab rear spar to run wires? Are there structural concerns? What size hole and I presume snap bushing? Wherever that point is, do you run the wires through the Rudder leading edge directly opposite, or is it better for the points to be staggered by several inches so to be easier on the wire? Regarding rudder trim, I modeled what I've seen so far but I think my approach was a bit different in that I mounted the servo on the starboard side of the skin, while the rod protruded from the port side. My thought was that steeper angle shortened the slot I had to cut in the skin for the rod, and possibly less exposed to the slip stream. Also, I have no other RV builders in Fergus Falls, MN (FFM) anyone should stop in anytime and tell me how I'm doing. Jay Wik #40536 Wings started. -- 1:27 AM -- 1:27 AM ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:12:50 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" The fiber optic conduit that I used (along with Tim and others) should be plenum rated. This basically means it has a coating on it that increases the temp at which it ignites and also emits less fumes. I used the poly pipe in the wings where I'm not as concerned about it. All of my stuff is still in boxes otherwise I would run a fire test on the conduit. Maybe Tim want's to light some up. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. --> Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Put in three hours tonight and am back on track. Thanks a ton.. JOhn G Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo stuff melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too bad., The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet of does just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:12:59 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) I think the best way would be to fit them prior and then leave them off for the fly-off, whether leaving the brackets on or off (up to you). It is good to be able to check pressure regularly and monitor everything during the first 25-40 hours, and taking the pants off to do that can be a pain. Also, it slows you down quite a bit (as much as 18Kts in our experience), so you don't reach that outer radius ring as quickly, which helps a little bit when testing systems and stuff. If you are doing it without the wings on, then without the engine makes sense. You should be able to install the nose fairing without the cowl. The cowl will need to be trimmed around it anyway. After the wings and engine, just jacking up on the tie-down supports should get the wheels high enough to work on the fairings. Since you will need to be able to jack it up later anyway with the engine on, then I don't see any difference. It certainly is easier without the wings on for the mains and without the engine for the nose gear to work around that area. Overall, I would say if you have time it is good to get them fit before flying because it will be a pain to take the time once you are flying, because they can take a lot of time to work with. Also, you can paint them when you are painting everything else (if you paint before you fly, that is, which I recommend), which can save some hastle. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:17 AM Subject: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) I understand that most flying builders have left the wheel pants & leg fairings off during their Stage 1. And some have not installed them until after flying. It appears that the alignment of these can be critical to the aircrafts top speed and overall handling. The plans call for raising the aircraft off the ground to facilitate the install. If this is the case, wouldn't it be better to install the pants & leg fairings BEFORE the engine gets hung? Would it help to ensure a better alignment? Does it make it easier / less time? From Tim' site it's obvious that they can be added later, for those of you who added them later, if you had it to do over again would you do them earlier? What about the other way around (those who did earlier)? My engine ships tomorrow, and I'm putting it on it's gear tomorrow , debating whether to hang the engine when it arrives next week, or let it sit, while I do the Pants and Fairings. THANKS Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ Want to see some pics of MY BPE IO-540-X w/ CAS? http://deemsrv10.com/album/My%20BPE%20IO-540-X%20w%20CAS/index.html 8-) -- 1:27 AM -- 1:27 AM ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:19:40 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." The model has been sold to the next builder, and hopefully he will follow in the tradition and be offering it up for sale again in a year, so we can keep passing the torch. Dan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R. Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:04 AM Subject: RV10-List: Following in Tim's tradition I have finalized my color's for painting, so it is time to order my custom painted desktop model. As many of you know, Tim bought the hand carved and painted to match the factory colors RV10 model at Oshkosh several years ago. When he got to the painting stage, he sold the original one on the list to another builder. My wife got it for me for fathers day, and I have had it on my desk at work, it still looks brand new. And for those wondering, no it has not had the Eggenfellner mod installed, so it still has the two bladed Hartzel prop out front, but my new one will have the 4 bladed prop. "GRIN" It is now time to pass the proverbial torch to the next builder, if anyone is interested, I will sell it for a good discount. Let me know, and lets keep this one alive and passing it on to future builders. It makes a great conversation piece to show to those that call you crazy and that you are actually building a plane, not just an RC model. Dan Dan Lloyd Director of Information Technology Werner Company 93 Werner Road Greenville, PA 16125 lloyddr@wernerco.com 1-724-588-2000 *2408 work 1-724-988-9230 cell ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:22:57 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." Use Fiber Optic Cable ducting that is plenum rated, if it ever burns, it is rated to be non-toxic as it is used in an air return plenum in the building. I had some laying around from a cabling job and took Tim's advice. You could probably call some of the local computer network guys and they would have what you need laying around. Dan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 1:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Put in three hours tonight and am back on track. Thanks a ton.. JOhn G Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo stuff melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too bad., The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet of does just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:59:43 AM PST US From: "Steve Stella" Subject: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts I've just completed my first set of parts for my vertical stabilizer and I'm ready to prime. I'm using Akzo Nobel Epoxy Primer, what is a good cleaner to use before priming. Steve Do not archive ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:11:32 AM PST US From: "ddddsp1@juno.com" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seek ing ) Deems, Do the pants NOW before you hang the engine. You will get it done with less hassle working around/under those wings and engine. Plus you will get them on straighter. Ask VAN himself, he put his on BEFORE he hung t he engine and wings! If the BOSS does it that way its good enough for m e. LOL DEAN 40449 ________________________________________________________________________

Deems,

Do the pants NOW before you hang the engine.  You will get it do ne with less hassle working around/under those wings and engine.  P lus you will get them on straighter.  Ask VAN himself, he put his o n BEFORE he hung the engine and wings!  If the BOSS does it that wa y its good enough for me.   LOL

DEAN  40449



______________________ __________________________________________________
Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today!
________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:18:27 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Man we have too many computer geeks on this list. ;-) Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R. Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 8:21 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. --> Use Fiber Optic Cable ducting that is plenum rated, if it ever burns, it is rated to be non-toxic as it is used in an air return plenum in the building. I had some laying around from a cabling job and took Tim's advice. You could probably call some of the local computer network guys and they would have what you need laying around. Dan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 1:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Put in three hours tonight and am back on track. Thanks a ton.. JOhn G Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo stuff melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too bad., The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet of does just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed. ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:24:19 AM PST US From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hi Res Pics? John ... I have not kept-up this thread ... please state the company you refer to when you say "their site" ... do you mean Garmin's site? Many thanks ... Jerry Grimmonpre' RV8 electric > > Jim, > Try the company web sites. I got my Garmin pics from their site and > printed them to actual size. The photo quality was good enough to use as > an economical panel planner. Also got the ACS 3400/3500 pics from their > site. > > John Habrouck > #40264 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:34:28 AM PST US From: "John Gonzalez" Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. Can one of you guys light some up with the stove or a soldering torch. Where do you get this stuff if I don't use the irrigation tubing. Light up one of those snap bushing and tell me what the difference would be if the wires got worn on one of them and lit it(for those not using conduit). I bet it burns. JOhnG >From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." >To: >Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. >Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 09:20:40 -0500 > > >Use Fiber Optic Cable ducting that is plenum rated, if it ever burns, it >is rated to be non-toxic as it is used in an air return plenum in the >building. >I had some laying around from a cabling job and took Tim's advice. You >could probably call some of the local computer network guys and they >would have what you need laying around. >Dan > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez >Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 1:08 AM >To: Rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. > > > >Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > >Put in three hours tonight and am back on track. > >Thanks a ton.. > >JOhn G > >Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an >experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys >burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo >stuff >melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too bad., > >The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet of >does >just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame > >The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed. > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 08:07:08 AM PST US From: Subject: RV10-List: Re: computer geeks Hey! I resemble that statement.... Or maybe all us IT guys have great taste in aircraft? >> > Man we have too many computer geeks on this list. ;-) > > Do not archive ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:22:09 AM PST US From: Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. > Where do you get this stuff if I don't use the irrigation tubing. Here's a source: http://onlinecatalog.anixter.com/SearchResultsServlet?QUERY=BROWSE&CATALOGID 04032900100000000&SECTIONID 04032900100004000&SUBSECTIONID 04032900100004006&SUBSECTIONNAME=Innerduct I didn't check to see what the smallest increment you could purchase. If you have to buy the entire reel, you'll have plenty for all your friends. :^) ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 09:01:58 AM PST US From: "John Testement" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts Steve, If you don't go the Alumiprep/Alodine route the best is MEK but it's more toxic than others. You could also probably use lacquer thinner, acetone or denatured alcohol (the safest) I have them all on the shelf. Be sure to scuff well with scotchbrite. Some like to wash with mild detergent (Dove) before using a cleaner. John Testement HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA Finish kit - wheel fairings, cowl prep _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Stella Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts I=92ve just completed my first set of parts for my vertical stabilizer and I=92m ready to prime. I=92m using Akzo Nobel Epoxy Primer, what is a good cleaner to use before priming. Steve Do not archive "http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com "http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com "http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com "http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut ion "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na vig ator?RV10-List 12/7/2006 -- 12/7/2006 ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 09:20:53 AM PST US From: Jeff Carpenter Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts Alumiprep... I believe it's available from Aircraft Spruce. Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Dec 7, 2006, at 6:48 AM, Steve Stella wrote: > I=92ve just completed my first set of parts for my vertical > stabilizer and I=92m ready to prime. I=92m using Akzo Nobel Epoxy > Primer, what is a good cleaner to use before priming. > > > Steve > > > Do not archive > Annual > ======================== List > ======================== > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 09:33:21 AM PST US From: "Steve Stella" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts Thanks John I appreciate it. Steve _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 11:56 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts Steve, If you don't go the Alumiprep/Alodine route the best is MEK but it's more toxic than others. You could also probably use lacquer thinner, acetone or denatured alcohol (the safest) I have them all on the shelf. Be sure to scuff well with scotchbrite. Some like to wash with mild detergent (Dove) before using a cleaner. John Testement jwt@roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA Finish kit - wheel fairings, cowl prep _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Stella Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts I've just completed my first set of parts for my vertical stabilizer and I'm ready to prime. I'm using Akzo Nobel Epoxy Primer, what is a good cleaner to use before priming. Steve Do not archive href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV10-List -- No virus found in this Edition. -- 12/7/2006 ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:40:05 AM PST US From: "John Gonzalez" Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. I won't need one inch diameter. Thinking I am going to use something else or go with what I have 3/4 inch. Thanks. JOhn G Do Not Archive >From: >To: >Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. >Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 11:19:43 -0500 > > > > Where do you get this stuff if I don't use the irrigation tubing. > >Here's a source: > >http://onlinecatalog.anixter.com/SearchResultsServlet?QUERY=BROWSE&CATALOGID 04032900100000000&SECTIONID 04032900100004000&SUBSECTIONID 04032900100004006&SUBSECTIONNAME=Innerduct > >I didn't check to see what the smallest increment you could purchase. If >you have to buy the entire reel, you'll have plenty for all your friends. >:^) > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 09:47:20 AM PST US From: Rick Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts Alumaprep is probably the best for "really" cleaning the parts it's a mild acid that etch's and cleans but if your not planning on alodining it can be overkill. I scuffed with the red scotchbrite pads and cleaned and degread with laquer thinner or MEK. MEK gases off slower than the thinner so it's better for large parts, small ones laquer thinner works good as does denatured alcohol, as the previous post said is the least toxic of the group, just make sure your in a well ventilated area and keep it off your skin. Drys out your hands something awful let alone the absorbtion factor. Open flame is NOT your friend here!! Rick S. 40185 ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 09:50:03 AM PST US From: "Steve Stella" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts Thanks Jeff Steve _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:19 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts Alumiprep... I believe it's available from Aircraft Spruce. Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Dec 7, 2006, at 6:48 AM, Steve Stella wrote: I've just completed my first set of parts for my vertical stabilizer and I'm ready to prime. I'm using Akzo Nobel Epoxy Primer, what is a good cleaner to use before priming. Steve Do not archive * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com Thank you for your generous class="Apple-converted-space"> - The RV10-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space"> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 10:23:32 AM PST US From: "John Hasbrouck" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hi Res Pics? Jerry, Sorry 'bout that. I was referring to the Advanced Flight Systems web site for the ACS3400/3500 pics. John ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 10:41:57 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. Well, most boys are pyros at birth....I think I'll have to go cut me a piece here and see what happens. ;) Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > The fiber optic conduit that I used (along with Tim and others) should > be plenum rated. This basically means it has a coating on it that > increases the temp at which it ignites and also emits less fumes. I > used the poly pipe in the wings where I'm not as concerned about it. > All of my stuff is still in boxes otherwise I would run a fire test on > the conduit. Maybe Tim want's to light some up. > > Michael > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez > Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:08 AM > To: Rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim. > > --> > > Dan, You're The Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > Put in three hours tonight and am back on track. > > Thanks a ton.. > > JOhn G > > Or by the way, the conduit that people are using, due to it being an > experimental, is there any requirement. The corregated crap at PepBoys > burns pretty well when the fire gets on it and stinks. The NyloFlo > stuff melts but the the flame seems to self extinguish doesn't smell too > bad., The Home Depot 3/4 black irragation line of which I have 500 feet > of does > just like the Pep Boys car stuff. Did anyone test their's with a flame > > The Nyla flow stuff from Do It center smells like snow skis being waxed. > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 11:11:32 AM PST US From: "Steve Stella" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts Alumaprep and MEK seems to cleaner of choice. Thanks Rick. Steve -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:45 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts Alumaprep is probably the best for "really" cleaning the parts it's a mild acid that etch's and cleans but if your not planning on alodining it can be overkill. I scuffed with the red scotchbrite pads and cleaned and degread with laquer thinner or MEK. MEK gases off slower than the thinner so it's better for large parts, small ones laquer thinner works good as does denatured alcohol, as the previous post said is the least toxic of the group, just make sure your in a well ventilated area and keep it off your skin. Drys out your hands something awful let alone the absorbtion factor. Open flame is NOT your friend here!! Rick S. 40185 ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 11:32:03 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) From: "Chris In Madison" Saw your RV-10 in the Completions section of Sport Aviation this month. Congratulations for finally making it in there! You've been done for how long? Same situation for one of my EAA Chapter-mates Larry Landucci with his CH-801. He's been done for quite some time and they finally got around to getting his plane in there. And they didn't get the description right... Oh well, at least y'all are in there :-) Best regards, Chris -------- Chris Owens Waunakee, WI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79913#79913 ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 01:11:27 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) Thanks Chris, It was nice to finally see an RV-10 in the magazine. It was hard for me to believe all of these RV-10's were flying before me but I never saw one there, so I sent mine in. Months later it shows up. The jury is still out on Kitplanes though.....I can't believe they can't get it in faster, as the magazine isn't that thick to start with. Adding a couple of pages of completions would really get them caught up quick I'd think. I got done 2/12/06. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Chris In Madison wrote: > > Saw your RV-10 in the Completions section of Sport Aviation this > month. Congratulations for finally making it in there! You've been > done for how long? Same situation for one of my EAA Chapter-mates > Larry Landucci with his CH-801. He's been done for quite some time > and they finally got around to getting his plane in there. And they > didn't get the description right... Oh well, at least y'all are in > there :-) > > Best regards, Chris > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 01:53:46 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) From: "Vern W. Smith" I think your supposed to reserved the placement about the same time you reserves an N number:) Vern (#324 fuselage) Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 1:10 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) Thanks Chris, It was nice to finally see an RV-10 in the magazine. It was hard for me to believe all of these RV-10's were flying before me but I never saw one there, so I sent mine in. Months later it shows up. The jury is still out on Kitplanes though.....I can't believe they can't get it in faster, as the magazine isn't that thick to start with. Adding a couple of pages of completions would really get them caught up quick I'd think. I got done 2/12/06. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Chris In Madison wrote: > > Saw your RV-10 in the Completions section of Sport Aviation this > month. Congratulations for finally making it in there! You've been > done for how long? Same situation for one of my EAA Chapter-mates > Larry Landucci with his CH-801. He's been done for quite some time > and they finally got around to getting his plane in there. And they > didn't get the description right... Oh well, at least y'all are in > there :-) > > Best regards, Chris > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 03:25:17 PM PST US From: "Jack Sargeant" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) My N-number has been reserved for 3 years, and I haven't got the shop ready, bought the tools, or ordered the first kit yet. (I got the renewal notice in yesterday's mail and the wife said "renew it!") Jack & Cecilia Sargeant 1127 Patricia St. Wichita, KS 67208-2642 316/683-5268 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vern W. Smith Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 3:52 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) I think your supposed to reserved the placement about the same time you reserves an N number:) Vern (#324 fuselage) Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 1:10 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) Thanks Chris, It was nice to finally see an RV-10 in the magazine. It was hard for me to believe all of these RV-10's were flying before me but I never saw one there, so I sent mine in. Months later it shows up. The jury is still out on Kitplanes though.....I can't believe they can't get it in faster, as the magazine isn't that thick to start with. Adding a couple of pages of completions would really get them caught up quick I'd think. I got done 2/12/06. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Chris In Madison wrote: > > Saw your RV-10 in the Completions section of Sport Aviation this > month. Congratulations for finally making it in there! You've been > done for how long? Same situation for one of my EAA Chapter-mates > Larry Landucci with his CH-801. He's been done for quite some time > and they finally got around to getting his plane in there. And they > didn't get the description right... Oh well, at least y'all are in > there :-) > > Best regards, Chris > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 05:48:31 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire? To help strip teflon (or any other slippery insulation) once the insulation is cut, use a large alligator boot to grip the insulation so you can pull it off. Or get one of the nifty automatic strippers that'll cut an pul;l off the insulation all in one lick. Linn do not archive RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > >Teflon can be difficult to work with. Harder to strip primarily. > >Michael > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez >Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 2:30 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: The difference in Teflon wire? > >--> > >Tim, > >I noticed form your web site that you recommend Wire Masters. > >Do you know the difference between the two types of Teflon wire: > >Teflon 22759-PTFE >(Polytetrafloroethylene) >Teflon 16878 -PTFE > >The numbers mean nothing to me. > >Thanks, > >John G. > > > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 06:09:50 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Hot off the CNC! From: "zackrv8" Guys, Dave just made a door handle for the RV10. It fits the existing RV10 handle assembly perfect. Like the other RV canopy handles he makes, it mounts with just 2 set screws. No need to put the large screw in the front. We put this on tonight to check the fit. I already had the existing holes drilled for Vans handle. We slid the new handle on, torqued both set screws, removed the handle, center punched were the set screws made marks, and put the handle back on. The center punch makes little divots were the set screws go and this handle does not rotate. I tried pretty hard...but it doesn't rotate. Good to go. Dave is making an aluminum insert that replaces Van's plastic cap. He says it will be a press fit. Just tap it in. I'll post a pic when I get it. If you are interested in these handles, you can call Dave at 302-437-6087 or email him at his new email address.. dczachorowski@comcast.net Check out the pics below... Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79987#79987 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06652_804.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06648_135.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06657_111.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06656_430.jpg ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 08:23:05 PM PST US From: "Dave Leikam" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Eggenfellner Just kidding! I just couldn't resist. O.K. , build on! Dave 40496 ----- Original Message ----- From: "bob.kaufmann" Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:38 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Eggenfellner > > Ok now lets talk about rotaries. What do you think??? ROFLMAO. O<))) > > Bob K > Do not archive > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter > Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:12 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Eggenfellner > > > You are right - gather as much (good) information as you can and make a > decision. Was just wondering is there a point when you reach information > overload? > > Mark (N410MR) > > >>From: Les Kearney >>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Eggenfellner >>Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 18:02:01 -0700 >> >> >>Hmmmm >> >>Mark, be careful what you ask for, ..... >> >>Anyway, as the originator of this thread, what I wanted was info. I >>readily >>admit that I *knew* little about the issues related to engine selection. >>As >>a new builder that has a multitude of choices & decisions looming in the >>future, this is one I wanted to start considering sooner rather than >>later. >> >>I do say many, many thanks to all who commented. I have a much better >>appreciation of the factors / decision points / considerations involved. >> >>Cheers >> >>Les Kearney >>RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter >>Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 5:33 PM >>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Eggenfellner >> >> >>All I want for Christmas is to have this subject go away. How many ways >>can >> >>you beat a dead horse? >> >>Mark (N410MR) >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > _________________________________________________________________ > View Athlete's Collections with Live Search > http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06&FORM=MGAC01 > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.