Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:25 AM - Matronics Fund Raiser - 2006 List of Contributors (Matt Dralle)
2. 06:42 AM - gear leg fairings (Chris Hukill)
3. 07:46 AM - Re: Re: QB access into side panels below door rim. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 07:48 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Randy Lervold)
5. 08:23 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Steve Stella)
6. 09:08 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Kelly McMullen)
7. 09:20 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Randy Lervold)
8. 09:36 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Randy Lervold)
9. 10:07 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Steve Stella)
10. 10:16 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
11. 10:23 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Kelly McMullen)
12. 10:47 AM - Dimpling (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
13. 10:55 AM - Re: Rear fuse vents (Randy DeBauw)
14. 11:15 AM - Re: Cleaning Parts (Randy Lervold)
15. 11:33 AM - Re: Rear fuse vents (Jesse Saint)
16. 12:16 PM - Re: Rear fuse vents (Randy DeBauw)
17. 12:27 PM - Re: Rear fuse vents (Mark Ritter)
18. 01:24 PM - Re: Cleaning Parts (NYTerminat@aol.com)
19. 01:25 PM - Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Jon Reining)
20. 01:39 PM - Re: Hot off the CNC! (Jon Reining)
21. 02:09 PM - Re: Re: Hot off the CNC! (Sullivan, Christy)
22. 02:09 PM - Re: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Tim Olson)
23. 05:25 PM - Re: Hot off the CNC! (zackrv8)
24. 05:58 PM - Another Alternative Engine? (Jeff Carpenter)
25. 06:58 PM - Re: Another Alternative Engine? (Carl Froehlich)
26. 07:19 PM - Re: Another Alternative Engine? (Rick)
27. 07:19 PM - Re: Another Alternative Engine? (Rick)
28. 09:25 PM - Paint experience (Rob Wright)
29. 11:41 PM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Michael Schipper)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Matronics Fund Raiser - 2006 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
I would like to thank everyone that made a Contribution in support of the Lists
this year! It was really nice to hear all great comments people had regarding
the Lists! As I have said many times before, running these Lists is a labor
of love. Your generosity during the List Fund Raiser only underscores the great
sentiments people have made regarding the Lists.
If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser please
feel free to do so. The nice List gifts will be available on the site for
just a little while longer, so hurry and make your Contribution and get your
great gift. Once again, the URL for the Contribution web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises ( http://www.kitlog.com ), Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP ( http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) and Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ) for their extremely generous support during this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of merchandise. These are great guys that support the aviation industry and I encourage each and every Lister to have a look at their products. Thank you Andy, Paul, Jon and Bob!! Your support is very much appreciated!
And finally, below you will find a web link to the 2006 List of Contributors current
as of 12/7/06! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people
that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you enough
for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser!
THANK YOU!
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2006.html
I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope to have
everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts will be shipped
via US Postal Service. Kitlog Pro serial numbers should go out via email this
weekend.
Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 2
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| Subject: | gear leg fairings |
When I built my RV8, I flew around for about a year before I finally
permanently installed my gear leg/ wheel fairings. Then I jacked the
plane and crawled around on the floor for many hours to get them
installed. NEVER AGAIN I said to myself, and anyone within cursing range
of my hangar.
On my RV10, I currently have the main fuselage section, with gear legs
temporarily installed, minus the tailcone, hanging from my aerolift, at
standing height. I was able to perfectly align and level the fuselage,
in all axis, using tiedown straps around the wingspars, and the boarding
steps. I drop plumb-bobs thru the centerline rivet holes down to a heavy
steel 4X8 foot table aligned beneath the fuselage. With this accurately
jigged arraignment I have been able to install and drill all the
fairings while comfortably seated at the worktable, using a series of
rulers, squares, and taught string references. One could do this just as
well with the tailcone and cabin attached, and a block and tackle system
could replace an aerolift.
This, my fourth homebuilt project, has become my challenge to be the
most organized and comfortable project it can be. If that means doing
gear leg fairings this early on, so be it.
Chris Hukill
buildus interuptus during major home remodel
Message 3
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| Subject: | QB access into side panels below door rim. |
If you know anyone that is in the computer cabling or electrical
business ask them if they have any extra laying around from a job. Good
chance they will just give it to you as long as they are short amounts.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: QB access into side panels below door rim.
> Where do you get this stuff if I don't use the irrigation tubing.
Here's a source:
http://onlinecatalog.anixter.com/SearchResultsServlet?QUERY=BROWSE&CATAL
OGID 04032900100000000&SECTIONID 04032900100004000&SUBSECTIONID 04
032900100004006&SUBSECTIONNAME=Innerduct
I didn't check to see what the smallest increment you could purchase.
If you have to buy the entire reel, you'll have plenty for all your
friends. :^)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Parts |
Steve,
Before you conclude things all the way allow me to share the method I have
found effective and efficient...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer
Short version: scuff with Scotchbrite wetted with Coleman fuel... scuff and
clean in one operation.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Stella" <sstella@incisaledge.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 10:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
>
> Alumaprep and MEK seems to cleaner of choice. Thanks Rick.
>
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:45 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
>
>
> Alumaprep is probably the best for "really" cleaning the parts it's a mild
> acid that etch's and cleans but if your not planning on alodining it can
> be
> overkill. I scuffed with the red scotchbrite pads and cleaned and degread
> with laquer thinner or MEK.
>
> MEK gases off slower than the thinner so it's better for large parts,
> small
> ones laquer thinner works good as does denatured alcohol, as the previous
> post said is the least toxic of the group, just make sure your in a well
> ventilated area and keep it off your skin. Drys out your hands something
> awful let alone the absorbtion factor. Open flame is NOT your friend
> here!!
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
Message 5
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Does the fuel leave a residue that needs to cleaned off with soap?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
Steve,
Before you conclude things all the way allow me to share the method I have
found effective and efficient...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer
Short version: scuff with Scotchbrite wetted with Coleman fuel... scuff and
clean in one operation.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Stella" <sstella@incisaledge.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 10:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
>
> Alumaprep and MEK seems to cleaner of choice. Thanks Rick.
>
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:45 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
>
>
> Alumaprep is probably the best for "really" cleaning the parts it's a mild
> acid that etch's and cleans but if your not planning on alodining it can
> be
> overkill. I scuffed with the red scotchbrite pads and cleaned and degread
> with laquer thinner or MEK.
>
> MEK gases off slower than the thinner so it's better for large parts,
> small
> ones laquer thinner works good as does denatured alcohol, as the previous
> post said is the least toxic of the group, just make sure your in a well
> ventilated area and keep it off your skin. Drys out your hands something
> awful let alone the absorbtion factor. Open flame is NOT your friend
> here!!
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Parts |
Hmm, kinda rather hazardous to your health and building and airframe.
Coleman fuel is white GASOLINE. Low octane unleaded, no additives.
On 12/8/06, Randy Lervold <randy@romeolima.com> wrote:
>
> Steve,
>
> Before you conclude things all the way allow me to share the method I have
> found effective and efficient...
> http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer
>
> Short version: scuff with Scotchbrite wetted with Coleman fuel... scuff and
> clean in one operation.
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Stella" <sstella@incisaledge.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 10:39 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
>
>
> >
> > Alumaprep and MEK seems to cleaner of choice. Thanks Rick.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> > Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:45 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
> >
> >
> > Alumaprep is probably the best for "really" cleaning the parts it's a mild
> > acid that etch's and cleans but if your not planning on alodining it can
> > be
> > overkill. I scuffed with the red scotchbrite pads and cleaned and degread
> > with laquer thinner or MEK.
> >
> > MEK gases off slower than the thinner so it's better for large parts,
> > small
> > ones laquer thinner works good as does denatured alcohol, as the previous
> > post said is the least toxic of the group, just make sure your in a well
> > ventilated area and keep it off your skin. Drys out your hands something
> > awful let alone the absorbtion factor. Open flame is NOT your friend
> > here!!
> >
> > Rick S.
> > 40185
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Parts |
Not at all. It is naptha which evaporates fully.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Stella" <sstella@incisaledge.com>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 8:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
>
> Does the fuel leave a residue that needs to cleaned off with soap?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 10:46 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
>
>
> Steve,
>
> Before you conclude things all the way allow me to share the method I have
> found effective and efficient...
> http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer
>
> Short version: scuff with Scotchbrite wetted with Coleman fuel... scuff
> and
> clean in one operation.
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com
> www.rv-8.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Parts |
> Hmm, kinda rather hazardous to your health and building and airframe.
> Coleman fuel is white GASOLINE. Low octane unleaded, no additives.
It's naptha, quite a ways down on the dangerous chemicals list and certainly
safer than any of the other chemicals mentioned in this thread such as MEK
or acetone or laquer thinner. Of course use gloves when scuffing with it.
Message 9
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No etching of the aluminum is needed?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
> Hmm, kinda rather hazardous to your health and building and airframe.
> Coleman fuel is white GASOLINE. Low octane unleaded, no additives.
It's naptha, quite a ways down on the dangerous chemicals list and certainly
safer than any of the other chemicals mentioned in this thread such as MEK
or acetone or laquer thinner. Of course use gloves when scuffing with it.
Message 10
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>From what I've been told naphtha is also very similar in performance to
wipes like DX-330, although I believe DX-330 is a high quality type of
mineral sprit. Might be closer to DX-440 which has more solvent
qualities.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleaning Parts
> Hmm, kinda rather hazardous to your health and building and airframe.
> Coleman fuel is white GASOLINE. Low octane unleaded, no additives.
It's naptha, quite a ways down on the dangerous chemicals list and
certainly
safer than any of the other chemicals mentioned in this thread such as
MEK
or acetone or laquer thinner. Of course use gloves when scuffing with
it.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Parts |
Think again:
Shellite (Australia), also known as white gas (North America), white
spirit or Coleman fuel, is a water white liquid with a hydrocarbon
odour. Shellite has a flashpoint less than -30 degrees Celsius, and a
boiling point of 47 degrees Celsius. The composition of shellite is
95% paraffins and naphthenes, less than 5% aromatic hydrocarbons and
less than 0.5% benzene. It is highly flammable and due to its low
flashpoint is used in many low pressure camping stoves. Shellite is
also a fast drying solvent used for cleaning metal, hard plastic and
painted surfaces.
Benzene is carcinogenic. Flamability is much bigger concern. Not much
harder to ignite than mogas or avgas.
On 12/8/06, Randy Lervold <randy@romeolima.com> wrote:
>
> > Hmm, kinda rather hazardous to your health and building and airframe.
> > Coleman fuel is white GASOLINE. Low octane unleaded, no additives.
>
> It's naptha, quite a ways down on the dangerous chemicals list and certainly
> safer than any of the other chemicals mentioned in this thread such as MEK
> or acetone or laquer thinner. Of course use gloves when scuffing with it.
>
>
Message 12
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The list has been a little slow with regard to the building practices. Here
is a tip on dimpling I just proved to my self.
I started using baby powder on my dimple dies, just a skiff you don't want
clumps. To prove this to my self I just got done dimpling the R&L lower
wing skins of an RV-7 took just over an hour ( I have a dimpling machine).
Using the baby powder I got perfectly formed dimples faster, when the baby
powder wore off the sound of the dimpling process changed and there was a
slight marring for the metal that is usual with dimpling. You, using your
Avery dimpler will defiantly see the difference.
One more note on baby powder: the reason I have it at the shop is for
fiberglass and carbon fiber work. Some times I get itchy and the baby
powder applied before I start sanding will eliminate itchiness.
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net/>
Message 13
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|
Jay, FYI they work fine and do allow a large quantity of air to come
through. They do not leak when closed and no rain water comes through
when parked on the ramp. They are not fancy but effective. Randy 40006
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay
Brinkmeyer
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear fuse vents
<jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Anyone else besides me think that these are junk? $35K for a kit that
has
cheesy, ugly, and (I'm thinking) less than useful vents. What have
others done
at this point?
I'm thinking of riveting mine shut somehow and calling it good. How
would these
possibly be opened from inside? (not?).
Van, are you listening?
Jay
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try
it now.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Parts |
>>From what I've been told naphtha is also very similar in performance to
> wipes like DX-330, although I believe DX-330 is a high quality type of
> mineral sprit. Might be closer to DX-440 which has more solvent
> qualities.
>
> Michael
True. If you look at the contents of most of the paint company prep solvents
you'll find that they are primarily naptha, but then add things like
tolulene etc. to make sure they clean any kind of contaminant off. Actually
DX-330 or the like would be technically even better than Coleman fuel to use
in scuffing parts for priming but its just more expensive.
Randy
Message 15
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Randy,
It's been a long time since I've seen a post from you (I think). How is the
plane flying? How many hours do you have? Have you noticed any service
issues that others should be aware of?
I have been wondering for a while about this. When the nose gear leg is
installed they say to only put one of the two supplies washers in and to put
the other when the rubbers take on their final set. Has anybody (or has
everybody) else put this washer in or noticed a need for it?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear fuse vents
Jay, FYI they work fine and do allow a large quantity of air to come
through. They do not leak when closed and no rain water comes through
when parked on the ramp. They are not fancy but effective. Randy 40006
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay
Brinkmeyer
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear fuse vents
<jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Anyone else besides me think that these are junk? $35K for a kit that
has
cheesy, ugly, and (I'm thinking) less than useful vents. What have
others done
at this point?
I'm thinking of riveting mine shut somehow and calling it good. How
would these
possibly be opened from inside? (not?).
Van, are you listening?
Jay
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try
it now.
--
1:31 PM
--
1:31 PM
Message 16
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Thanks for noticing my absence Jesse. I have been selling the homestead
and I am waiting for our new digs to be completed. I have 170 plus
hours on the plane. It is working and flying perfect. I have not messed
with the nose gear washers yet but will be looking at them as soon as I
get all of this junk (house hold belongings) out of my hanger. I decided
to install the aileron trim kit but can't even see my tool box. My flap
positioner had to be adjusted last week. The flap motor actuation rod
torques to the left and right more now than it did when I first flew.
The detents ground in the rod were being hidden because of the twisting
action. I still have not insulated the firewall insulation yet. I have
decided to use the foil backed foam that I ordered from Hi Tech foams. I
am going to install it on the engine side of the firewall in stead of
the normal cabin side. My feeling is that if I can keep the heat off of
the stainless steel firewall to begin with then it should even be
cooler. Lancair put the firewall material on the engine side because
they want to protect the fiberglass. We will see and I will let
everyone know. Randy 40006
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 11:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear fuse vents
Randy,
It's been a long time since I've seen a post from you (I think). How is
the
plane flying? How many hours do you have? Have you noticed any service
issues that others should be aware of?
I have been wondering for a while about this. When the nose gear leg is
installed they say to only put one of the two supplies washers in and to
put
the other when the rubbers take on their final set. Has anybody (or has
everybody) else put this washer in or noticed a need for it?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear fuse vents
Jay, FYI they work fine and do allow a large quantity of air to come
through. They do not leak when closed and no rain water comes through
when parked on the ramp. They are not fancy but effective. Randy 40006
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay
Brinkmeyer
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear fuse vents
<jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Anyone else besides me think that these are junk? $35K for a kit that
has
cheesy, ugly, and (I'm thinking) less than useful vents. What have
others done
at this point?
I'm thinking of riveting mine shut somehow and calling it good. How
would these
possibly be opened from inside? (not?).
Van, are you listening?
Jay
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try
it now.
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1:31 PM
Message 17
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I have not put the second washer in and after 50 hours have not seen a need
for it. Maybe guys & gals with 100+ hours will chime in.
Mark (N410MR)
>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear fuse vents
>Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2006 14:31:42 -0500
>
>
>Randy,
>
>It's been a long time since I've seen a post from you (I think). How is
>the
>plane flying? How many hours do you have? Have you noticed any service
>issues that others should be aware of?
>
>I have been wondering for a while about this. When the nose gear leg is
>installed they say to only put one of the two supplies washers in and to
>put
>the other when the rubbers take on their final set. Has anybody (or has
>everybody) else put this washer in or noticed a need for it?
>
>Do not archive.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
>Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 1:53 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear fuse vents
>
>
>Jay, FYI they work fine and do allow a large quantity of air to come
>through. They do not leak when closed and no rain water comes through
>when parked on the ramp. They are not fancy but effective. Randy 40006
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay
>Brinkmeyer
>Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:16 AM
>To: RV10
>Subject: RV10-List: Rear fuse vents
>
><jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>
>Anyone else besides me think that these are junk? $35K for a kit that
>has
>cheesy, ugly, and (I'm thinking) less than useful vents. What have
>others done
>at this point?
>
>I'm thinking of riveting mine shut somehow and calling it good. How
>would these
>possibly be opened from inside? (not?).
>
>Van, are you listening?
>
>Jay
>
>
>Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try
>it now.
>
>
>--
>1:31 PM
>
>
>--
>1:31 PM
>
>
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Parts |
If it is 95% paraffin, is that what you want to clean your parts before
painting??????
In a message dated 12/8/2006 1:29:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
apilot2@gmail.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
Think again:
Shellite (Australia), also known as white gas (North America), white
spirit or Coleman fuel, is a water white liquid with a hydrocarbon
odour. Shellite has a flashpoint less than -30 degrees Celsius, and a
boiling point of 47 degrees Celsius. The composition of shellite is
95% paraffins and naphthenes, less than 5% aromatic hydrocarbons and
less than 0.5% benzene. It is highly flammable and due to its low
flashpoint is used in many low pressure camping stoves. Shellite is
also a fast drying solvent used for cleaning metal, hard plastic and
painted surfaces.
Benzene is carcinogenic. Flamability is much bigger concern. Not much
harder to ignite than mogas or avgas.
On 12/8/06, Randy Lervold <randy@romeolima.com> wrote:
>
> > Hmm, kinda rather hazardous to your health and building and airframe.
> > Coleman fuel is white GASOLINE. Low octane unleaded, no additives.
>
> It's naptha, quite a ways down on the dangerous chemicals list and
certainly
> safer than any of the other chemicals mentioned in this thread such as MEK
> or acetone or laquer thinner. Of course use gloves when scuffing with it.
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
I got my Van's 2007 calendar last night and saw the awesome formation photo of
Tim, Alex, and Vic - very cool! That in itself was worth the price of the calendar.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p233#80233
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Hot off the CNC! |
Zack,
Those look great! Have you given any thought to a lock? I know its been discussed
before, and we've seen some nice samples from others, but nobody has delivered
yet. You and Dave are a viable production source with some great products.
Jon
40514 (along with my dad)
Tailcone - buildus interruptus
do no archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p238#80238
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Hot off the CNC! |
Along with wife as well who reads the RV-10 list. Don't forget the wives as well!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Reining
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 1:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hot off the CNC!
--> <jonathan.w.reining@wellsfargo.com>
Zack,
Those look great! Have you given any thought to a lock? I know its been discussed
before, and we've seen some nice samples from others, but nobody has delivered
yet. You and Dave are a viable production source with some great products.
Jon
40514 (along with my dad)
Tailcone - buildus interruptus
do no archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p238#80238
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
Yeah, that was one of the pics that I wanted to post on my last trip
writeup, but couldn't, since we didn't know if it would be in the
calendar or not. It was tons of fun, that's for sure! I think the
RV-10 builders would love the photo. I have a couple others up
too, in 8x10's on my office wall, and want to get a poster made
of a single (my plane only) shot that turned out absolutely beautiful.
A dream of mine is to get 10x10's in a good photo some day.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jon Reining wrote:
> <jonathan.w.reining@wellsfargo.com>
>
> I got my Van's 2007 calendar last night and saw the awesome formation
> photo of Tim, Alex, and Vic - very cool! That in itself was worth
> the price of the calendar.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p233#80233
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Hot off the CNC! |
Jon,
I asked Dave to design a lock. He's thinking about it but doesn't have anything
yet. He is concentrating on the inside door handle. We don't like the square
tubing that Vans has and the minimum space for your hand between the handle
and door.
I know he has ordered some 4130 tubing and will make a billet handle for the
inside out of aluminum. Can't wait to see what he comes up with.
Zack
Jon Reining wrote:
> Zack,
>
> Those look great! Have you given any thought to a lock? I know its been discussed
before, and we've seen some nice samples from others, but nobody has delivered
yet. You and Dave are a viable production source with some great products.
>
> Jon
> 40514 (along with my dad)
> Tailcone - buildus interruptus
>
> do no archive
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p270#80270
Message 24
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| Subject: | Another Alternative Engine? |
http://www.flyjeta.com/tech.htm
What say you engine experts?
Message 25
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| Subject: | Another Alternative Engine? |
Two problems:
- Price (>$80K)
- French
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 8:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Another Alternative Engine?
http://www.flyjeta.com/tech.htm
What say you engine experts?
Message 26
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| Subject: | Another Alternative Engine? |
AGGGHHHHAAAAAAA!!!!
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Another Alternative Engine? |
Double AAAAAAGGGGGHHHHHAAA!!!!!!
Message 28
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| Subject: | Paint experience |
How much experience did you (anyone) have prior to doing your own priming
and then paint? I need to start planning. For the simplicity of the fuse
interior, it seems that I can both prime and paint with an inexpensive gun
(<$50 or<$75), then I can save up for a higher quality exterior gun after I
fly for a while.
Questions:
How's the learning curve?
How many practice pieces before committing?
What about gravity vs. standard fed guns? Meaning, how easy is it to
manipulate the gun to all the nooks and crannys with such a big cup without
losing paint flow?
Recommend pint or quart cup to cover the interior, or go with a touch-up
gun? I see on Tim's site that he only used about a quart total for the
whole inside.
Thanks,
Rob Wright
#392
Fuse Access Covers
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
Hi Deems,
Do yourself a favor and do the wheel pants and gear leg fairings now.
You can leave them off the plane for the first couple of flights if
you wish.
On the RV-9A, I was one of those who just wanted to "get into the
air", so I chose to do my undercarriage later. It may just be a
mental thing, but once the plane is flying it is very difficult to
spend the 40 hours (or whatever it is) to work on fiberglass. Also,
as you have pointed out, it is a process that requires some level of
accuracy, so it's good if you can align everything in advance.
Regards,
Mike Schipper
#40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com
RV-9A - N63MS - Flying
On Dec 6, 2006, at 11:17 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I understand that most flying builders have left the wheel pants &
> leg fairings off during their Stage 1. And some have not installed
> them until after flying. It appears that the alignment of these can
> be critical to the aircrafts top speed and overall handling. The
> plans call for raising the aircraft off the ground to facilitate
> the install. If this is the case, wouldn't it be better to install
> the pants & leg fairings BEFORE the engine gets hung? Would it help
> to ensure a better alignment? Does it make it easier / less time?
> From Tim' site it's obvious that they can be added later, for those
> of you who added them later, if you had it to do over again would
> you do them earlier? What about the other way around (those who did
> earlier)?
> My engine ships tomorrow, and I'm putting it on it's gear
> tomorrow , debating whether to hang the engine when it arrives next
> week, or let it sit, while I do the Pants and Fairings.
>
> THANKS
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> Want to see some pics of MY BPE IO-540-X w/ CAS?
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/My%20BPE%20IO-540-X%20w%20CAS/index.html
>
> 8-)
>
>
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