Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:58 AM - Transition training (Wayne Edgerton)
2. 10:29 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (KiloPapa)
3. 10:39 AM - tough or impossible floor pan rivets? (Chris Johnston)
4. 10:54 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Tim Olson)
5. 01:37 PM - Bending skin edges after dimpling (MauleDriver)
6. 01:40 PM - Re: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? (McGANN, Ron)
7. 02:38 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
8. 02:46 PM - Re: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? (Rob Wright)
9. 02:52 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (Jeff Carpenter)
10. 06:00 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
11. 06:34 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (Steve Stella)
12. 06:53 PM - Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals (John Testement RM)
13. 07:03 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (Dave Leikam)
14. 07:06 PM - Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals (Tim Olson)
15. 07:21 PM - Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals (Kelly McMullen)
16. 08:22 PM - Priming Question - When To Do (Les Kearney)
17. 08:40 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (Rob Wright)
18. 08:59 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (John W. Cox)
19. 09:22 PM - Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Scott Schmidt)
20. 09:55 PM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (ddddsp1@juno.com)
21. 10:28 PM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (John W. Cox)
22. 10:51 PM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Scott Schmidt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Transition training |
Yesterday I went over to Alex De Dominicis's house at Eagles Nest Air
Park, which is here in the Dallas/Fort Worth area, and took my first
RV10 transition training flight with him. To say I had a great time
flying his 10 is an understatement. Alex really has a beautiful bird and
he has it fantastically equipped with all the fun stuff. He turned on
his A/C while we were sitting on the ground to show me how it works and
it works great, just like the car. Got to check this out later.
I may have used up some of my RV grins in flying Alex's machine but
hopefully I've got a couple left for when I fly mine, which I hope is
not to far off.
His 10 handled outstanding in every phase of flight. In straight and
level the ride was very smooth and the visibility was second to none.
Alex and I aren't little guys and we had plenty of elbow room between
us. We did the standard things you do in training. Straight ahead stalls
were a non event as compared to other planes I've flown. It never did
really break but just kind of sat there and buffeted mostly. Very
docile.
We did standard and steep turns. He had me first do 20 deg turns and
this was very easy to hold altitude. We then move it to 30 deg and it
still was very smooth, unlike some planes I've flown, I actually let go
of the stick at one point in the turn with the 30 deg bank and the plane
held itself there. I was really impressed on how smooth it was in these
maneuvers. We then moved it up to 40 deg bank and it was still easily
controllable but I did have to hold a little more back pressure to hold
altitude as we progressed through the turn. I've flown quite a few
different planes, singles and twins and gliders, I've owned a Bonanza
and a Baron, and I have to say this plane handles better than anyone
that I've ever flown. One point that Alex made to me on steep turns was
that when you fly right turns you will notice, which I did, a little
more back pressure is required, which is a function of the P factor.
After our maneuvers we decided to shoot some approaches using his
TruTrac Sorcerer auto pilot, I also flew one by hand. We shot an ILS
into Midlothian Airport and it took us right down the glide slope. We
then executed a missed with the auto pilot and it flew us to the IAF and
did a hold for us making the entry that we all scratch our heads over
when we have to do one. Very impressive.
We then did a hand flown approach and it wasn't difficult to hold the
ILS needles in check, we did have to break off though because of
conflicting traffic in the area. We then proceeded to the landing phase.
It really handled nicely on the approach to landing and the landing. Not
difficult at all to land. Alex had me use 2 notches of flaps on the
approach, I think it was 15 deg, and that worked really well. Boy, when
you push in on the throttle to take off on the touch and go this baby
wants to just jump off the runway. I did notice the P factor on take off
more than I've been used to, requiring rudder to keep it straight. I'm
assuming this is because of the power to weight ratio. It wasn't a
problem but you definitely needed to use the rudders. On climb out this
puppy wants to climb quick.
We did several other things but as you can tell I thoroughly enjoyed
myself. I've had a lot of flight instructors over the years but Alex
would have to rate as one of the better ones I've had. He's very low
keyed and tells you what he wants you to do very clearly. And he told me
lets just go out there and have some fun flying, which makes a person
relax and actually have some fun. I would highly recommend anyone
needing transition training to consider giving Alex a call. He's a
really nice guy and a great instructor. He's also an Air Traffic
Controller at the DFW airport. Here is his web site address
http://www.rvtraining.com/
Now I've got to get those vendors who are holding me up to get off there
behinds and get my equipment to me :>} I'm ready to get this show on
the road.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
itching from fiber glass work :>{
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
Does the geometry of the gear legs change with the full weight of the
airplane on them and suspended as in flight?
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
>>
>> I understand that most flying builders have left the wheel pants & leg
>> fairings off during their Stage 1. And some have not installed them
>> until after flying. It appears that the alignment of these can be
>> critical to the aircrafts top speed and overall handling. The plans call
>> for raising the aircraft off the ground to facilitate the install. If
>> this is the case, wouldn't it be better to install the pants & leg
>> fairings BEFORE the engine gets hung? Would it help to ensure a better
>> alignment? Does it make it easier / less time? From Tim' site it's
>> obvious that they can be added later, for those of you who added them
>> later, if you had it to do over again would you do them earlier? What
>> about the other way around (those who did earlier)?
>> My engine ships tomorrow, and I'm putting it on it's gear tomorrow ,
>> debating whether to hang the engine when it arrives next week, or let it
>> sit, while I do the Pants and Fairings.
>>
>> THANKS
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>> Want to see some pics of MY BPE IO-540-X w/ CAS?
>>
>> http://deemsrv10.com/album/My%20BPE%20IO-540-X%20w%20CAS/index.html
>>
>> 8-)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | tough or impossible floor pan rivets? |
hey all -
how has anyone handled the forward most outboard rivet on the F-1016C
L/R floors? i'm installing them, and i can't for the life of me see how
to get either a pop rivet or a driven rivet in there. very curious.
help!
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
Absolutely. It spreads as you put weight on them.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
KiloPapa wrote:
>
> Does the geometry of the gear legs change with the full weight of the
> airplane on them and suspended as in flight?
>
> Kevin
> 40494
> tail/empennage
>
> do not archive
>
>>>
>>> I understand that most flying builders have left the wheel pants &
>>> leg fairings off during their Stage 1. And some have not installed
>>> them until after flying. It appears that the alignment of these can
>>> be critical to the aircrafts top speed and overall handling. The
>>> plans call for raising the aircraft off the ground to facilitate the
>>> install. If this is the case, wouldn't it be better to install the
>>> pants & leg fairings BEFORE the engine gets hung? Would it help to
>>> ensure a better alignment? Does it make it easier / less time? From
>>> Tim' site it's obvious that they can be added later, for those of
>>> you who added them later, if you had it to do over again would you
>>> do them earlier? What about the other way around (those who did
>>> earlier)?
>>> My engine ships tomorrow, and I'm putting it on it's gear tomorrow ,
>>> debating whether to hang the engine when it arrives next week, or
>>> let it sit, while I do the Pants and Fairings.
>>>
>>> THANKS
>>>
>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>>
>>>
>>> Want to see some pics of MY BPE IO-540-X w/ CAS?
>>>
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/album/My%20BPE%20IO-540-X%20w%20CAS/index.html
>>>
>>> 8-)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Bending skin edges after dimpling |
I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job.
However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting the
slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using this tool to
bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips?
I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any
dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this.
Bill Watson - tailcone assembled, elevators almost ready to rivet,
finally priming tomorrow.
Message 6
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| Subject: | tough or impossible floor pan rivets? |
G'day CJ,
I installed machine screws/nuts/washers in those locations.
cheers,
Ron
187 finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Monday, 11 December 2006 5:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: tough or impossible floor pan rivets?
hey all -
how has anyone handled the forward most outboard rivet on the F-1016C
L/R floors? i'm installing them, and i can't for the life of me see how
to get either a pop rivet or a driven rivet in there. very curious.
help!
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling |
In a message dated 12/10/2006 4:39:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
MauleDriver@nc.rr.com writes:
I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting the
slight bend the trailing edge.
If you doubt the quality of the dimple after adding the bend, simply
drop a rivet in the hole and see if it will sit flush. If not, dimple it again,
much easier before assembly. It you try to hit a rivet a little harder
later to make it site flush, you will dent the skin just forward of the aluminum
wedge piece on the trailing edge. Ask me how i know!
Steve
Stephen Blank #40499 Building the elevator trim tabs. ( i
know... very slow progress.. the kit is easy, i am slow.)
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | tough or impossible floor pan rivets? |
Unless you're planning on some pretty heavy pressure on that specific point
it'll do just as well to leave it out as mangle the pan and structure to get
a hole in there. There seem to be enough rivets (and mechanical pressure)
holding the pan in place to worry on this one. It really just holds the pan
there, no load bearing and no structural integrity. As always Van's could
clue you in on the real engineering.
Rob
#392
Access Covers
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tough or impossible floor pan rivets?
hey all -
how has anyone handled the forward most outboard rivet on the F-1016C L/R
floors? i'm installing them, and i can't for the life of me see how to get
either a pop rivet or a driven rivet in there. very curious. help!
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling |
Hi Bill,
I've done my edge bending with a hand seamer both before and after
dimpling. Either way, I start at the end with the edge of the tool
gripping half way in to 3-4 rivet holes and make a slight bend, then
move the tool down, overlapping one hole as I make my way down the
skin. This method has worked well for me, and I see no difference
between the edges bent before dimpling and those bent after. I'm
very happy with the result.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Dec 10, 2006, at 1:36 PM, MauleDriver wrote:
>
> I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job.
> However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting
> the slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using
> this tool to bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips?
>
> I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any
> dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this.
>
> Bill Watson - tailcone assembled, elevators almost ready to rivet,
> finally priming tomorrow.
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling |
Don't use the our edge rolling tool after the dimpling! You will end up
making a bend that is tight in between dimples and almost non existant at
the dimple. Furthermore it will roll out or flatten the dimples and you
will have to re-dimple the row. Redimpling will tend to stretch the
material slightly. If I were in your position I would try and find a finger
break big enough to fit it in and bend it slightly that way (plumbing
shop?). Our tool works great for this area if you remember to use it :)
Mike
--
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
515-432-6794
www.cleavelandtool.com
>
> On Dec 10, 2006, at 1:36 PM, MauleDriver wrote:
>
> >
> > I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job.
> > However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting
> > the slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using
> > this tool to bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips?
> >
> > I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any
> > dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this.
> >
> > Bill Watson - tailcone assembled, elevators almost ready to rivet,
> > finally priming tomorrow.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Bending skin edges after dimpling |
Here's an idea I just thought of to protect the dimples already made. Take a
piece of hardwood or aluminum stock and you can either match drill and
countersink them to line up with dimples or you could just run a groove the
width of the dimples and clamp onto that. I haven't tried it before but it
was just a thought.
Steve
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling
Don't use the our edge rolling tool after the dimpling! You will end up
making a bend that is tight in between dimples and almost non existant at
the dimple. Furthermore it will roll out or flatten the dimples and you
will have to re-dimple the row. Redimpling will tend to stretch the
material slightly. If I were in your position I would try and find a finger
break big enough to fit it in and bend it slightly that way (plumbing
shop?). Our tool works great for this area if you remember to use it :)
Mike
--
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
515-432-6794
www.cleavelandtool.com
On Dec 10, 2006, at 1:36 PM, MauleDriver wrote:
>
> I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job.
> However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting
> the slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using
> this tool to bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips?
>
> I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any
> dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals |
For those of you flying with the IO-540 D4A5, what engine manuals to you
recommend buying. I understand there is a parts manual and an overhaul
manual. I don't plan to be overhauling (have a new Aerosport engine) but do
want a reference for general maintenance, torque values, etc. What is the
best source for these? Lycoming direct?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - engine, cowl
--
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling |
I also dimpled my elevator trailing edge before making the bend by
mistake. I used my edge bending roller to make the bend but opened the
gap between the rollers to just clear the dimples. I was able to get
enough bend to satisfy me and my edges turned out fine.
Dave Leikam
40496
tailcone riveting
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Stella
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling
Here's an idea I just thought of to protect the dimples already made.
Take a piece of hardwood or aluminum stock and you can either match
drill and countersink them to line up with dimples or you could just run
a groove the width of the dimples and clamp onto that. I haven't tried
it before but it was just a thought.
Steve
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Lauritsen - Work
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:59 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling
Don't use the our edge rolling tool after the dimpling! You will end
up making a bend that is tight in between dimples and almost non
existant at the dimple. Furthermore it will roll out or flatten the
dimples and you will have to re-dimple the row. Redimpling will tend to
stretch the material slightly. If I were in your position I would try
and find a finger break big enough to fit it in and bend it slightly
that way (plumbing shop?). Our tool works great for this area if you
remember to use it :)
Mike
--
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
515-432-6794
www.cleavelandtool.com
On Dec 10, 2006, at 1:36 PM, MauleDriver wrote:
MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job.
> However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting
> the slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using
> this tool to bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips?
>
> I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any
> dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this.
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals |
Operations, Overhaul, Parts. All can be valuable to have.
Some can be ordered as reprints from ACS for cheaper.
Some can be found on Ebay.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Testement RM wrote:
> For those of you flying with the IO-540 D4A5, what engine manuals to you
> recommend buying. I understand there is a parts manual and an overhaul
> manual. I don't plan to be overhauling (have a new Aerosport engine) but
> do want a reference for general maintenance, torque values, etc. What is
> the best source for these? Lycoming direct?
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Finish kit - engine, cowl
>
> --
> 12/9/2006
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals |
Manual reprints available from Essco.
May be a few years old, but good enough for reference.
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Operations, Overhaul, Parts. All can be valuable to have.
> Some can be ordered as reprints from ACS for cheaper.
> Some can be found on Ebay.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> John Testement RM wrote:
>> For those of you flying with the IO-540 D4A5, what engine manuals to
>> you recommend buying. I understand there is a parts manual and an
>> overhaul manual. I don't plan to be overhauling (have a new Aerosport
>> engine) but do want a reference for general maintenance, torque
>> values, etc. What is the best source for these? Lycoming direct?
>>
>> John Testement
>> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>> 40321
>> Richmond, VA
>> Finish kit - engine, cowl
>>
>> --
>> 12/9/2006
>>
>>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Priming Question - When To Do |
Hi
One of the things I have been doing during my empennage construction
process
is to clean / deburr and prep all parts prior to initial assembly and
match
drilling. After drilling, I deburr all holes drilled and then proceed to
final assembly and riveting.
Reading other posts, I believe that others prime as a last step before
assembly & riveting.
Is there any compelling reason to prefer one way over the other?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
RV10
#40643 - lost in the empennage
Message 17
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| Subject: | Priming Question - When To Do |
Less heartache when you scratch your prime job and then have to recoat. I
wait until after I'm done fooling with the pieces to prime.
Rob Wright
#392
Fuse Access Covers (Sec 35)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 10:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do
Hi
One of the things I have been doing during my empennage construction process
is to clean / deburr and prep all parts prior to initial assembly and match
drilling. After drilling, I deburr all holes drilled and then proceed to
final assembly and riveting.
Reading other posts, I believe that others prime as a last step before
assembly & riveting.
Is there any compelling reason to prefer one way over the other?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
RV10
#40643 - lost in the empennage
Message 18
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| Subject: | Priming Question - When To Do |
Les, so as not to start a rekindle of the primer wars and Egg wars of
past. Many locales have low humidity or lack of ocean influence. In
Oregon, home of VANS, we are usually above 80% relative humidity for up
to six months. Right now its above 90% and going for 100%. Aircraft
are stored long term in Mesa, Marana, and Tucson for a reason.
Moisture, hydrocarbons, phosphate cleaning compounds, acid rain all help
to start the galvanic process. Some builders are investing the time and
materials to create Classic Antique Homebuilts. Others don't care. To
each their own. Alodine brings benefits and risks which need to be
understood. Zinc Chromate Primer used to be a common staple. Kelly can
pipe in on this, but there was a long series of Cessna Spam Cans which
suffered filiform corrosion under beautiful topcoats which took twenty
years to surface. Seems leaving the aircraft out overnight in the
Midwest dew carried a long-term cost even during the summer. Most of us
will never see a paint stripping and repaint in our kit's lifetime.
I have seen more Vans primer jobs pealing due to improper solvent
cleaning than I have ever seen damage from lack of primer. On the other
hand, amphibs get the protection during construction for a reason. Once
corrosion starts it's a really memorable Bear to remove. You choose.
Choose wisely for your application, budget and timing schedule. I have
a reprieve from Deems till 2020 to get finished so I am comfortable with
my decision.
On a separate note, Paul Grimstad and I may head up there this winter to
visit and let you know the Oregon delegation moves slowly "All year
long" but supports your efforts - North of the border.
John Cox
#40600
Do not archive out of respect for Matt's server
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do
Hi
One of the things I have been doing during my empennage construction
process is to clean / deburr and prep all parts prior to initial
assembly and match drilling. After drilling, I deburr all holes drilled
and then proceed to final assembly and riveting.
Reading other posts, I believe that others prime as a last step before
assembly & riveting.
Is there any compelling reason to prefer one way over the other?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
RV10
#40643 - lost in the empennage
Message 19
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| Subject: | Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
Hi guys, just wanted to let you all know about an incident I had today
that could have been prevented. I flew down to Mesquite NV. last
Thursday and was getting ready to fly back today. As I was loading and
getting ready to fly back to Salt Lake City, I took out the eye bolts
for the tie downs. I then loaded two people in the back with luggage.
The plane was pointed slightly up hill and then both me and my friend
stepped on the step and the plane rocked back. I got off but the plane
continued to fall back and the tail hit the ground. It slightly bent
the bottom fuselage skin at the very rear and cracked the rear
fiberglass fairing on the rudder. I will have to replace it and repaint
it. It really isn't a big deal but I'm going to replace the whole
fiberglass peice. There would be no scratches or damage at all if I
would have left the rear tie down in. It would have hit the ground.
I never thought it would rock back but it did. It was on a slope and
the wind was blowing pretty hard that pushed the rear of the plane down
even more.
Moral of the story: Put the eye bolt in and keep it there. Don't be
like me and worry about the .0345256395734 mph that you lose with the
eye bolt. You can still take out the wing bolts.
Scott Schmidt
N104XP - 72 hours
________________________________
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
Scott,
I was just at mesquite..........did you fly down to golf WOLF CREEK? Wh
at a great golf course. While we were playing a nice VLJ flew in as the
airport is almost ON the course. When 805HL is done I figure I can get
to Mesquite in 4 hours.........play golf and fly home. Sorry to hear
about the incident. I guess getting someone in the front seat before lo
ading all the WINNINGS from the casino in the baggage compartment is a m
ust when leaving Nevada! LOL
DEAN 40449
________________________________________________________________________
<html><P>Scott,</P>
<P>I was just at mesquite..........did you fly down to golf WOLF CREEK?&
nbsp; What a great golf course. While we were playing a nice VLJ f
lew in as the airport is almost ON the course. When 805HL is done
I figure I can get to Mesquite in 4 hours.........play golf and fly home
. Sorry to hear about the incident. I guess getting so
meone in the front seat before loading all the WINNINGS from the casino
in the baggage compartment is a must when leaving Nevada! LO
L</P>
<P>DEAN 40449</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
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Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
Scott, my heart goes out to you.
Randy must have known that, cause the first time I boarded N610RV he was
quick to point out that two humans (of my ballast) cannot mount the
RV-10 aircraft at the same point in time.
Builders Note: Only one POB on any given step at the same point in
time. Share the excitement of loading for a flight - one at a time.
Trivia from the latest FAA AC43.13-2A, Chapter Three - Page 14, Section
38. When installed, the 3/8-16 UNC eyebolt (not provided in the kit) has
a frontal area of about 0.4231875 sq. inches and using the formula from
the AC43.13-1B that would make the factors in Drag = .000327 * Area *
velocity squared. So at that magic 208 mph, your drag might have been
as high as 5.986972368 pounds. That's no light bag of potatoes for us
Hot Rodders. Now what formulation did you use to convert drag factor
into lost mph at cruise? How are the headers working out? Do you have
any input on Grand Rapids vs. Chelton yet? Isn't your engine an
Aerosport?
Hope the repair goes quickly and your painter is as good at Spot Work as
complete repaint. I am waiting for Sun N' Fun and a Grand Champion
RV-10. May you have gentle breezes, light tailwinds and clear skies into
the spring.
John Cox
#40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 9:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt
Hi guys, just wanted to let you all know about an incident I had today
that could have been prevented. I flew down to Mesquite NV. last
Thursday and was getting ready to fly back today. As I was loading and
getting ready to fly back to Salt Lake City, I took out the eye bolts
for the tie downs. I then loaded two people in the back with luggage.
The plane was pointed slightly up hill and then both me and my friend
stepped on the step and the plane rocked back. I got off but the plane
continued to fall back and the tail hit the ground. It slightly bent
the bottom fuselage skin at the very rear and cracked the rear
fiberglass fairing on the rudder. I will have to replace it and repaint
it. It really isn't a big deal but I'm going to replace the whole
fiberglass peice. There would be no scratches or damage at all if I
would have left the rear tie down in. It would have hit the ground.
I never thought it would rock back but it did. It was on a slope and
the wind was blowing pretty hard that pushed the rear of the plane down
even more.
Moral of the story: Put the eye bolt in and keep it there. Don't be
like me and worry about the .0345256395734 mph that you lose with the
eye bolt. You can still take out the wing bolts.
Scott Schmidt
N104XP - 72 hours
________________________________
Message 22
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| Subject: | Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
We flew down Thursday and went over Grand Canyon again. We landed at
the Grand Canyon airport in 25 knot winds. We golfed both courses at
Oasis. I've played Wolfcreek before and loved it. What a great
weekend, 70 degrees and no wind or clouds. If any of you ever fly down
the local Mesquite auto rental company will come and pick you up. You
then can leave the car at the airport when you leave and they will come
and pick it up.
I wish my winnings were the issue. Played three card poker and did
alright but I didn't win the bazzillion dollars I was hoping for.
Well, it was time to do some things on plane I've been holding off on.
I'm going to add the oxygen system and finish the headliner while I'm
working on the rudder. I'm also going to add a rudder trim while I have
it off and have to repaint it.
-Scott Schmidt
N104XP - 72 hours
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Sun 12/10/2006 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt
Scott,
I was just at mesquite..........did you fly down to golf WOLF CREEK?
What a great golf course. While we were playing a nice VLJ flew in as
the airport is almost ON the course. When 805HL is done I figure I can
get to Mesquite in 4 hours.........play golf and fly home. Sorry to
hear about the incident. I guess getting someone in the front seat
before loading all the WINNINGS from the casino in the baggage
compartment is a must when leaving Nevada! LOL
DEAN 40449
________________________________________________________________________
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