---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 12/10/06: 22 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:58 AM - Transition training (Wayne Edgerton) 2. 10:29 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (KiloPapa) 3. 10:39 AM - tough or impossible floor pan rivets? (Chris Johnston) 4. 10:54 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Tim Olson) 5. 01:37 PM - Bending skin edges after dimpling (MauleDriver) 6. 01:40 PM - Re: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? (McGANN, Ron) 7. 02:38 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com) 8. 02:46 PM - Re: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? (Rob Wright) 9. 02:52 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (Jeff Carpenter) 10. 06:00 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (Mike Lauritsen - Work) 11. 06:34 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (Steve Stella) 12. 06:53 PM - Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals (John Testement RM) 13. 07:03 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (Dave Leikam) 14. 07:06 PM - Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals (Tim Olson) 15. 07:21 PM - Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals (Kelly McMullen) 16. 08:22 PM - Priming Question - When To Do (Les Kearney) 17. 08:40 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (Rob Wright) 18. 08:59 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (John W. Cox) 19. 09:22 PM - Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Scott Schmidt) 20. 09:55 PM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (ddddsp1@juno.com) 21. 10:28 PM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (John W. Cox) 22. 10:51 PM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Scott Schmidt) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:58:29 AM PST US From: "Wayne Edgerton" Subject: RV10-List: Transition training Yesterday I went over to Alex De Dominicis's house at Eagles Nest Air Park, which is here in the Dallas/Fort Worth area, and took my first RV10 transition training flight with him. To say I had a great time flying his 10 is an understatement. Alex really has a beautiful bird and he has it fantastically equipped with all the fun stuff. He turned on his A/C while we were sitting on the ground to show me how it works and it works great, just like the car. Got to check this out later. I may have used up some of my RV grins in flying Alex's machine but hopefully I've got a couple left for when I fly mine, which I hope is not to far off. His 10 handled outstanding in every phase of flight. In straight and level the ride was very smooth and the visibility was second to none. Alex and I aren't little guys and we had plenty of elbow room between us. We did the standard things you do in training. Straight ahead stalls were a non event as compared to other planes I've flown. It never did really break but just kind of sat there and buffeted mostly. Very docile. We did standard and steep turns. He had me first do 20 deg turns and this was very easy to hold altitude. We then move it to 30 deg and it still was very smooth, unlike some planes I've flown, I actually let go of the stick at one point in the turn with the 30 deg bank and the plane held itself there. I was really impressed on how smooth it was in these maneuvers. We then moved it up to 40 deg bank and it was still easily controllable but I did have to hold a little more back pressure to hold altitude as we progressed through the turn. I've flown quite a few different planes, singles and twins and gliders, I've owned a Bonanza and a Baron, and I have to say this plane handles better than anyone that I've ever flown. One point that Alex made to me on steep turns was that when you fly right turns you will notice, which I did, a little more back pressure is required, which is a function of the P factor. After our maneuvers we decided to shoot some approaches using his TruTrac Sorcerer auto pilot, I also flew one by hand. We shot an ILS into Midlothian Airport and it took us right down the glide slope. We then executed a missed with the auto pilot and it flew us to the IAF and did a hold for us making the entry that we all scratch our heads over when we have to do one. Very impressive. We then did a hand flown approach and it wasn't difficult to hold the ILS needles in check, we did have to break off though because of conflicting traffic in the area. We then proceeded to the landing phase. It really handled nicely on the approach to landing and the landing. Not difficult at all to land. Alex had me use 2 notches of flaps on the approach, I think it was 15 deg, and that worked really well. Boy, when you push in on the throttle to take off on the touch and go this baby wants to just jump off the runway. I did notice the P factor on take off more than I've been used to, requiring rudder to keep it straight. I'm assuming this is because of the power to weight ratio. It wasn't a problem but you definitely needed to use the rudders. On climb out this puppy wants to climb quick. We did several other things but as you can tell I thoroughly enjoyed myself. I've had a lot of flight instructors over the years but Alex would have to rate as one of the better ones I've had. He's very low keyed and tells you what he wants you to do very clearly. And he told me lets just go out there and have some fun flying, which makes a person relax and actually have some fun. I would highly recommend anyone needing transition training to consider giving Alex a call. He's a really nice guy and a great instructor. He's also an Air Traffic Controller at the DFW airport. Here is his web site address http://www.rvtraining.com/ Now I've got to get those vendors who are holding me up to get off there behinds and get my equipment to me :>} I'm ready to get this show on the road. Wayne Edgerton #40336 itching from fiber glass work :>{ ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 10:29:53 AM PST US From: "KiloPapa" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) Does the geometry of the gear legs change with the full weight of the airplane on them and suspended as in flight? Kevin 40494 tail/empennage do not archive >> >> I understand that most flying builders have left the wheel pants & leg >> fairings off during their Stage 1. And some have not installed them >> until after flying. It appears that the alignment of these can be >> critical to the aircrafts top speed and overall handling. The plans call >> for raising the aircraft off the ground to facilitate the install. If >> this is the case, wouldn't it be better to install the pants & leg >> fairings BEFORE the engine gets hung? Would it help to ensure a better >> alignment? Does it make it easier / less time? From Tim' site it's >> obvious that they can be added later, for those of you who added them >> later, if you had it to do over again would you do them earlier? What >> about the other way around (those who did earlier)? >> My engine ships tomorrow, and I'm putting it on it's gear tomorrow , >> debating whether to hang the engine when it arrives next week, or let it >> sit, while I do the Pants and Fairings. >> >> THANKS >> >> Deems Davis # 406 >> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) >> http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >> >> Want to see some pics of MY BPE IO-540-X w/ CAS? >> >> http://deemsrv10.com/album/My%20BPE%20IO-540-X%20w%20CAS/index.html >> >> 8-) >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 10:39:19 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? From: "Chris Johnston" hey all - how has anyone handled the forward most outboard rivet on the F-1016C L/R floors? i'm installing them, and i can't for the life of me see how to get either a pop rivet or a driven rivet in there. very curious. help! cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net do not archive ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:54:05 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) Absolutely. It spreads as you put weight on them. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive KiloPapa wrote: > > Does the geometry of the gear legs change with the full weight of the > airplane on them and suspended as in flight? > > Kevin > 40494 > tail/empennage > > do not archive > >>> >>> I understand that most flying builders have left the wheel pants & >>> leg fairings off during their Stage 1. And some have not installed >>> them until after flying. It appears that the alignment of these can >>> be critical to the aircrafts top speed and overall handling. The >>> plans call for raising the aircraft off the ground to facilitate the >>> install. If this is the case, wouldn't it be better to install the >>> pants & leg fairings BEFORE the engine gets hung? Would it help to >>> ensure a better alignment? Does it make it easier / less time? From >>> Tim' site it's obvious that they can be added later, for those of >>> you who added them later, if you had it to do over again would you >>> do them earlier? What about the other way around (those who did >>> earlier)? >>> My engine ships tomorrow, and I'm putting it on it's gear tomorrow , >>> debating whether to hang the engine when it arrives next week, or >>> let it sit, while I do the Pants and Fairings. >>> >>> THANKS >>> >>> Deems Davis # 406 >>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) >>> http://deemsrv10.com/ >>> >>> >>> Want to see some pics of MY BPE IO-540-X w/ CAS? >>> >>> http://deemsrv10.com/album/My%20BPE%20IO-540-X%20w%20CAS/index.html >>> >>> 8-) >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:37:58 PM PST US From: MauleDriver Subject: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job. However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting the slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using this tool to bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips? I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this. Bill Watson - tailcone assembled, elevators almost ready to rivet, finally priming tomorrow. ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 01:40:35 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? From: "McGANN, Ron" G'day CJ, I installed machine screws/nuts/washers in those locations. cheers, Ron 187 finishing -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris Johnston Sent: Monday, 11 December 2006 5:04 AM Subject: RV10-List: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? hey all - how has anyone handled the forward most outboard rivet on the F-1016C L/R floors? i'm installing them, and i can't for the life of me see how to get either a pop rivet or a driven rivet in there. very curious. help! cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net do not archive ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 02:38:19 PM PST US From: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling In a message dated 12/10/2006 4:39:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, MauleDriver@nc.rr.com writes: I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting the slight bend the trailing edge. If you doubt the quality of the dimple after adding the bend, simply drop a rivet in the hole and see if it will sit flush. If not, dimple it again, much easier before assembly. It you try to hit a rivet a little harder later to make it site flush, you will dent the skin just forward of the aluminum wedge piece on the trailing edge. Ask me how i know! Steve Stephen Blank #40499 Building the elevator trim tabs. ( i know... very slow progress.. the kit is easy, i am slow.) 766 SE River Lane Port St. Lucie, FL 34983 772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends do not archive ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 02:46:09 PM PST US From: "Rob Wright" Subject: RE: RV10-List: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? Unless you're planning on some pretty heavy pressure on that specific point it'll do just as well to leave it out as mangle the pan and structure to get a hole in there. There seem to be enough rivets (and mechanical pressure) holding the pan in place to worry on this one. It really just holds the pan there, no load bearing and no structural integrity. As always Van's could clue you in on the real engineering. Rob #392 Access Covers -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:34 PM Subject: RV10-List: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? hey all - how has anyone handled the forward most outboard rivet on the F-1016C L/R floors? i'm installing them, and i can't for the life of me see how to get either a pop rivet or a driven rivet in there. very curious. help! cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net do not archive ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:52:38 PM PST US From: Jeff Carpenter Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling Hi Bill, I've done my edge bending with a hand seamer both before and after dimpling. Either way, I start at the end with the edge of the tool gripping half way in to 3-4 rivet holes and make a slight bend, then move the tool down, overlapping one hole as I make my way down the skin. This method has worked well for me, and I see no difference between the edges bent before dimpling and those bent after. I'm very happy with the result. Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Dec 10, 2006, at 1:36 PM, MauleDriver wrote: > > I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job. > However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting > the slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using > this tool to bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips? > > I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any > dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this. > > Bill Watson - tailcone assembled, elevators almost ready to rivet, > finally priming tomorrow. > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:00:22 PM PST US From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling Don't use the our edge rolling tool after the dimpling! You will end up making a bend that is tight in between dimples and almost non existant at the dimple. Furthermore it will roll out or flatten the dimples and you will have to re-dimple the row. Redimpling will tend to stretch the material slightly. If I were in your position I would try and find a finger break big enough to fit it in and bend it slightly that way (plumbing shop?). Our tool works great for this area if you remember to use it :) Mike -- Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 515-432-6794 www.cleavelandtool.com > > On Dec 10, 2006, at 1:36 PM, MauleDriver wrote: > > > > > I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job. > > However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting > > the slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using > > this tool to bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips? > > > > I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any > > dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this. > > > > Bill Watson - tailcone assembled, elevators almost ready to rivet, > > finally priming tomorrow. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:34:41 PM PST US From: "Steve Stella" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling Here's an idea I just thought of to protect the dimples already made. Take a piece of hardwood or aluminum stock and you can either match drill and countersink them to line up with dimples or you could just run a groove the width of the dimples and clamp onto that. I haven't tried it before but it was just a thought. Steve _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:59 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling Don't use the our edge rolling tool after the dimpling! You will end up making a bend that is tight in between dimples and almost non existant at the dimple. Furthermore it will roll out or flatten the dimples and you will have to re-dimple the row. Redimpling will tend to stretch the material slightly. If I were in your position I would try and find a finger break big enough to fit it in and bend it slightly that way (plumbing shop?). Our tool works great for this area if you remember to use it :) Mike -- Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 515-432-6794 www.cleavelandtool.com On Dec 10, 2006, at 1:36 PM, MauleDriver wrote: > > I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job. > However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting > the slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using > this tool to bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips? > > I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any > dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this. ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 06:53:50 PM PST US From: "John Testement RM" Subject: RV10-List: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals For those of you flying with the IO-540 D4A5, what engine manuals to you recommend buying. I understand there is a parts manual and an overhaul manual. I don't plan to be overhauling (have a new Aerosport engine) but do want a reference for general maintenance, torque values, etc. What is the best source for these? Lycoming direct? John Testement HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA Finish kit - engine, cowl -- ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:03:23 PM PST US From: "Dave Leikam" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling I also dimpled my elevator trailing edge before making the bend by mistake. I used my edge bending roller to make the bend but opened the gap between the rollers to just clear the dimples. I was able to get enough bend to satisfy me and my edges turned out fine. Dave Leikam 40496 tailcone riveting ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Stella To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:34 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling Here's an idea I just thought of to protect the dimples already made. Take a piece of hardwood or aluminum stock and you can either match drill and countersink them to line up with dimples or you could just run a groove the width of the dimples and clamp onto that. I haven't tried it before but it was just a thought. Steve ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:59 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending skin edges after dimpling Don't use the our edge rolling tool after the dimpling! You will end up making a bend that is tight in between dimples and almost non existant at the dimple. Furthermore it will roll out or flatten the dimples and you will have to re-dimple the row. Redimpling will tend to stretch the material slightly. If I were in your position I would try and find a finger break big enough to fit it in and bend it slightly that way (plumbing shop?). Our tool works great for this area if you remember to use it :) Mike -- Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 515-432-6794 www.cleavelandtool.com On Dec 10, 2006, at 1:36 PM, MauleDriver wrote: MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> > > I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job. > However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting > the slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using > this tool to bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips? > > I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any > dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this. -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click onthis year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com * Aeroware Enterprises www.kitlog.com * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.comList Contribution Web Site--> http://www.matronics.com/contributionThank you for your generous support! -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - The RV10-List Email Forum - ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:06:57 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals Operations, Overhaul, Parts. All can be valuable to have. Some can be ordered as reprints from ACS for cheaper. Some can be found on Ebay. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive John Testement RM wrote: > For those of you flying with the IO-540 D4A5, what engine manuals to you > recommend buying. I understand there is a parts manual and an overhaul > manual. I don't plan to be overhauling (have a new Aerosport engine) but > do want a reference for general maintenance, torque values, etc. What is > the best source for these? Lycoming direct? > > John Testement > jwt@roadmapscoaching.com > 40321 > Richmond, VA > Finish kit - engine, cowl > > -- > 12/9/2006 > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:21:17 PM PST US From: Kelly McMullen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals Manual reprints available from Essco. May be a few years old, but good enough for reference. Tim Olson wrote: > > Operations, Overhaul, Parts. All can be valuable to have. > Some can be ordered as reprints from ACS for cheaper. > Some can be found on Ebay. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > do not archive > > > John Testement RM wrote: >> For those of you flying with the IO-540 D4A5, what engine manuals to >> you recommend buying. I understand there is a parts manual and an >> overhaul manual. I don't plan to be overhauling (have a new Aerosport >> engine) but do want a reference for general maintenance, torque >> values, etc. What is the best source for these? Lycoming direct? >> >> John Testement >> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com >> 40321 >> Richmond, VA >> Finish kit - engine, cowl >> >> -- >> 12/9/2006 >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:22:07 PM PST US From: Les Kearney Subject: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do Hi One of the things I have been doing during my empennage construction process is to clean / deburr and prep all parts prior to initial assembly and match drilling. After drilling, I deburr all holes drilled and then proceed to final assembly and riveting. Reading other posts, I believe that others prime as a last step before assembly & riveting. Is there any compelling reason to prefer one way over the other? Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney RV10 #40643 - lost in the empennage ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:40:40 PM PST US From: "Rob Wright" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do Less heartache when you scratch your prime job and then have to recoat. I wait until after I'm done fooling with the pieces to prime. Rob Wright #392 Fuse Access Covers (Sec 35) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 10:22 PM Subject: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do Hi One of the things I have been doing during my empennage construction process is to clean / deburr and prep all parts prior to initial assembly and match drilling. After drilling, I deburr all holes drilled and then proceed to final assembly and riveting. Reading other posts, I believe that others prime as a last step before assembly & riveting. Is there any compelling reason to prefer one way over the other? Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney RV10 #40643 - lost in the empennage ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:59:59 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do From: "John W. Cox" Les, so as not to start a rekindle of the primer wars and Egg wars of past. Many locales have low humidity or lack of ocean influence. In Oregon, home of VANS, we are usually above 80% relative humidity for up to six months. Right now its above 90% and going for 100%. Aircraft are stored long term in Mesa, Marana, and Tucson for a reason. Moisture, hydrocarbons, phosphate cleaning compounds, acid rain all help to start the galvanic process. Some builders are investing the time and materials to create Classic Antique Homebuilts. Others don't care. To each their own. Alodine brings benefits and risks which need to be understood. Zinc Chromate Primer used to be a common staple. Kelly can pipe in on this, but there was a long series of Cessna Spam Cans which suffered filiform corrosion under beautiful topcoats which took twenty years to surface. Seems leaving the aircraft out overnight in the Midwest dew carried a long-term cost even during the summer. Most of us will never see a paint stripping and repaint in our kit's lifetime. I have seen more Vans primer jobs pealing due to improper solvent cleaning than I have ever seen damage from lack of primer. On the other hand, amphibs get the protection during construction for a reason. Once corrosion starts it's a really memorable Bear to remove. You choose. Choose wisely for your application, budget and timing schedule. I have a reprieve from Deems till 2020 to get finished so I am comfortable with my decision. On a separate note, Paul Grimstad and I may head up there this winter to visit and let you know the Oregon delegation moves slowly "All year long" but supports your efforts - North of the border. John Cox #40600 Do not archive out of respect for Matt's server ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:22 PM Subject: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do Hi One of the things I have been doing during my empennage construction process is to clean / deburr and prep all parts prior to initial assembly and match drilling. After drilling, I deburr all holes drilled and then proceed to final assembly and riveting. Reading other posts, I believe that others prime as a last step before assembly & riveting. Is there any compelling reason to prefer one way over the other? Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney RV10 #40643 - lost in the empennage ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 09:22:18 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt From: "Scott Schmidt" Hi guys, just wanted to let you all know about an incident I had today that could have been prevented. I flew down to Mesquite NV. last Thursday and was getting ready to fly back today. As I was loading and getting ready to fly back to Salt Lake City, I took out the eye bolts for the tie downs. I then loaded two people in the back with luggage. The plane was pointed slightly up hill and then both me and my friend stepped on the step and the plane rocked back. I got off but the plane continued to fall back and the tail hit the ground. It slightly bent the bottom fuselage skin at the very rear and cracked the rear fiberglass fairing on the rudder. I will have to replace it and repaint it. It really isn't a big deal but I'm going to replace the whole fiberglass peice. There would be no scratches or damage at all if I would have left the rear tie down in. It would have hit the ground. I never thought it would rock back but it did. It was on a slope and the wind was blowing pretty hard that pushed the rear of the plane down even more. Moral of the story: Put the eye bolt in and keep it there. Don't be like me and worry about the .0345256395734 mph that you lose with the eye bolt. You can still take out the wing bolts. Scott Schmidt N104XP - 72 hours ________________________________ ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:55:13 PM PST US From: "ddddsp1@juno.com" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt Scott, I was just at mesquite..........did you fly down to golf WOLF CREEK? Wh at a great golf course. While we were playing a nice VLJ flew in as the airport is almost ON the course. When 805HL is done I figure I can get to Mesquite in 4 hours.........play golf and fly home. Sorry to hear about the incident. I guess getting someone in the front seat before lo ading all the WINNINGS from the casino in the baggage compartment is a m ust when leaving Nevada! LOL DEAN 40449 ________________________________________________________________________

Scott,

I was just at mesquite..........did you fly down to golf WOLF CREEK?& nbsp; What a great golf course.  While we were playing a nice VLJ f lew in as the airport is almost ON the course.  When 805HL is done I figure I can get to Mesquite in 4 hours.........play golf and fly home .   Sorry to hear about the incident.  I guess getting so meone in the front seat before loading all the WINNINGS from the casino in the baggage compartment is a must when leaving Nevada!   LO L

DEAN 40449



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________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 10:28:13 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt From: "John W. Cox" Scott, my heart goes out to you. Randy must have known that, cause the first time I boarded N610RV he was quick to point out that two humans (of my ballast) cannot mount the RV-10 aircraft at the same point in time. Builders Note: Only one POB on any given step at the same point in time. Share the excitement of loading for a flight - one at a time. Trivia from the latest FAA AC43.13-2A, Chapter Three - Page 14, Section 38. When installed, the 3/8-16 UNC eyebolt (not provided in the kit) has a frontal area of about 0.4231875 sq. inches and using the formula from the AC43.13-1B that would make the factors in Drag = .000327 * Area * velocity squared. So at that magic 208 mph, your drag might have been as high as 5.986972368 pounds. That's no light bag of potatoes for us Hot Rodders. Now what formulation did you use to convert drag factor into lost mph at cruise? How are the headers working out? Do you have any input on Grand Rapids vs. Chelton yet? Isn't your engine an Aerosport? Hope the repair goes quickly and your painter is as good at Spot Work as complete repaint. I am waiting for Sun N' Fun and a Grand Champion RV-10. May you have gentle breezes, light tailwinds and clear skies into the spring. John Cox #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 9:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt Hi guys, just wanted to let you all know about an incident I had today that could have been prevented. I flew down to Mesquite NV. last Thursday and was getting ready to fly back today. As I was loading and getting ready to fly back to Salt Lake City, I took out the eye bolts for the tie downs. I then loaded two people in the back with luggage. The plane was pointed slightly up hill and then both me and my friend stepped on the step and the plane rocked back. I got off but the plane continued to fall back and the tail hit the ground. It slightly bent the bottom fuselage skin at the very rear and cracked the rear fiberglass fairing on the rudder. I will have to replace it and repaint it. It really isn't a big deal but I'm going to replace the whole fiberglass peice. There would be no scratches or damage at all if I would have left the rear tie down in. It would have hit the ground. I never thought it would rock back but it did. It was on a slope and the wind was blowing pretty hard that pushed the rear of the plane down even more. Moral of the story: Put the eye bolt in and keep it there. Don't be like me and worry about the .0345256395734 mph that you lose with the eye bolt. You can still take out the wing bolts. Scott Schmidt N104XP - 72 hours ________________________________ ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 10:51:12 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt From: "Scott Schmidt" We flew down Thursday and went over Grand Canyon again. We landed at the Grand Canyon airport in 25 knot winds. We golfed both courses at Oasis. I've played Wolfcreek before and loved it. What a great weekend, 70 degrees and no wind or clouds. If any of you ever fly down the local Mesquite auto rental company will come and pick you up. You then can leave the car at the airport when you leave and they will come and pick it up. I wish my winnings were the issue. Played three card poker and did alright but I didn't win the bazzillion dollars I was hoping for. Well, it was time to do some things on plane I've been holding off on. I'm going to add the oxygen system and finish the headliner while I'm working on the rudder. I'm also going to add a rudder trim while I have it off and have to repaint it. -Scott Schmidt N104XP - 72 hours ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of ddddsp1@juno.com Sent: Sun 12/10/2006 10:53 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt Scott, I was just at mesquite..........did you fly down to golf WOLF CREEK? What a great golf course. While we were playing a nice VLJ flew in as the airport is almost ON the course. When 805HL is done I figure I can get to Mesquite in 4 hours.........play golf and fly home. Sorry to hear about the incident. I guess getting someone in the front seat before loading all the WINNINGS from the casino in the baggage compartment is a must when leaving Nevada! LOL DEAN 40449 ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.