Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:39 AM - Re: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? (Larry Rosen)
2. 02:21 AM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Rob Kermanj)
3. 02:52 AM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Russell Daves)
4. 03:07 AM - Re: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Russell Daves)
5. 06:14 AM - Test (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 06:15 AM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Tim Olson)
7. 06:20 AM - Re: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Tim Olson)
8. 06:53 AM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Tom Deutsch)
9. 07:00 AM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Jesse Saint)
10. 07:16 AM - Re: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
11. 07:17 AM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (John W. Cox)
12. 07:25 AM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (MauleDriver)
13. 07:27 AM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (MauleDriver)
14. 07:39 AM - Re: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Jesse Saint)
15. 07:45 AM - Re: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (John W. Cox)
16. 07:46 AM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Jesse Saint)
17. 07:56 AM - Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt (Tom Deutsch)
18. 08:26 AM - Re: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
19. 08:46 AM - Re: Dimpling (Vern W. Smith)
20. 08:50 AM - Re: Hot Starts Lycoming? (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
21. 08:54 AM - Re: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Rene Felker)
22. 09:02 AM - Re: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? (linn Walters)
23. 09:16 AM - Re: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (John Gonzalez)
24. 09:18 AM - floor pan rivets (Jay Brinkmeyer)
25. 09:19 AM - Shielded wire. (John Gonzalez)
26. 09:35 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (KiloPapa)
27. 10:25 AM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (Tim Olson)
28. 10:33 AM - Re: Shielded wire. (Rick)
29. 11:16 AM - OB leading edge skins (todd agold)
30. 11:21 AM - Re: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? (Mike Kraus)
31. 11:30 AM - Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals (Deems Davis)
32. 12:16 PM - Re: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
33. 12:23 PM - fuel pump (Chris Johnston)
34. 12:49 PM - Re: fuel pump (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
35. 12:49 PM - Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals (Larry Rosen)
36. 01:02 PM - Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking ) (KiloPapa)
37. 01:08 PM - Re: fuel pump (John Gonzalez)
38. 01:15 PM - Re: fuel pump (Jesse Saint)
39. 01:33 PM - Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals (Rhonda Bewley)
40. 03:13 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (Niko)
41. 04:27 PM - 7.9mm ream anyone (John W. Cox)
42. 04:29 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (Jesse Saint)
43. 05:04 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
44. 05:41 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (Tim Olson)
45. 05:41 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (John W. Cox)
46. 06:46 PM - Re: 7.9mm ream anyone (Mark Ritter)
47. 06:56 PM - Re: 7.9mm ream anyone (McGANN, Ron)
48. 08:14 PM - Newest 10 Builder (orchidman)
49. 08:30 PM - Re: Newest 10 Builder (Rene)
50. 08:45 PM - Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling (Bill Reining)
51. 08:45 PM - clearance (Rob Wright)
52. 08:51 PM - Wire routing--TUNNEL? (John Gonzalez)
53. 08:52 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (Dean Van Winkle)
54. 08:55 PM - Re: Priming Question - When To Do (KiloPapa)
55. 08:56 PM - Re: clearance (Rene)
56. 09:40 PM - Re: Shielded wire. (bob.kaufmann)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? |
Here is one from the archives.
Good Luck
Hope yours comes out better than my mangled pop rivets.
Larry #356
--------------------------
This is bit of an old issue, but I recently won the battle against the
"impossible rivets" on the rear seat pans and I thought I would share my
method.
The forward-most hole is the problem because the front seat support gets
in the way. I managed to set a solid rivet in these holes, but it took
some trial and error. I ended up using a 12" piece of steel angle, with
a hole drilled in one end to accept a 1/8" cupped set (I had to do some
grinding on the end of the steel piece to get it to work out). I placed
the cupped set on the rivet and blocked the aft end of the steel piece
from the side panel with a piece of wood. Then I used a mushroom set in
my rivet gun, placed it on the piece of steel as close to the rivet as
possible and hammered away. I cranked up the PSI on the gun a bit. I
used different pieces of wood to support the steel piece while I riveted
to keep from scratching the floor and side panel aluminum.
As a bucking bar for all the floor pan rivets along the left and right
sides of the fuselage, I used the long RV-10 bucking bar with a 2x4
block taped in the middle (this gives you leverage against the outside
skin for holding pressure on the back side of the rivets). It takes some
adjusting of the size of the block, but once you get it right you can
get through those rivets quickly. You might want to support the outside
skin with something to keep it from denting as you're pushing on it.
Send me an email if you want to see a picture of the rivet set up.
Jim McGrew
RV-10 #134 - Just starting to wire fuse
-----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] <mailto:server@matronics.com%5D> On Behalf Of
Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:30 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
> Tim, you and I seem to be at the same sport. I ended up doing
> the same thing for the nutplates on the baggage door jam. I drilled the
> rivet hole to come out the back and then enlarged this hole to 1/4" and
> back riveted it using a hammer and punch on a backing plate.
> As for the most forward rivet on the rear side seat pans, I also
> left this rivet out. I called Van's about it and explain to Bruce there
> is no way to get this rivet because you can't get to either side of the
> rivet with the gun. He went on to say you can use a pop rivet at a 15
> degree angle, but I said it would be more like a 70 degree angle and it
> wouldn't work. If you look at the drawing that show the rear floor pan,
> you will notice they don't even show this hole exists, so I wonder if
> this was added later not thinking about how it would be set.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250 Floor Pans all rivet on.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com%5D> On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 11:16 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
>
> I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
> fuse, by the way.
>
> #1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
> There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
> accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
> find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
> a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
> rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
> you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
>
>
> The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
> rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are completely
> inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
> location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
> Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
> worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
> other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
> from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
> sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
> them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
> then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
>
> Tim
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
Thanks for the "heads-up".
Do not archive
Rob Kermanj
On Dec 11, 2006, at 12:21 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Hi guys, just wanted to let you all know about an incident I had
> today that could have been prevented. I flew down to Mesquite NV.
> last Thursday and was getting ready to fly back today. As I was
> loading and getting ready to fly back to Salt Lake City, I took out
> the eye bolts for the tie downs. I then loaded two people in the
> back with luggage. The plane was pointed slightly up hill and then
> both me and my friend stepped on the step and the plane rocked
> back. I got off but the plane continued to fall back and the tail
> hit the ground. It slightly bent the bottom fuselage skin at the
> very rear and cracked the rear fiberglass fairing on the rudder. I
> will have to replace it and repaint it. It really isn't a big deal
> but I'm going to replace the whole fiberglass peice. There would be
> no scratches or damage at all if I would have left the rear tie
> down in. It would have hit the ground.
> I never thought it would rock back but it did. It was on a slope
> and the wind was blowing pretty hard that pushed the rear of the
> plane down even more.
>
> Moral of the story: Put the eye bolt in and keep it there. Don't
> be like me and worry about the .0345256395734 mph that you lose
> with the eye bolt. You can still take out the wing bolts.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> N104XP - 72 hours
>
> ________________________________
>
> <winmail.dat>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
I too had the same problem when my buddy Bob K. and I both got on the
step at the same time. I replaced my rudder bottom fairing with
nutplates and screws instead of riveting it back on. Still have to
paint but with my White/Red/Black paint job it doesn't look real bad
still unpainted.
I am not at all sure that leaving the eye bolt in will solve the problem
because the angle may still get the rear tail lens and rear tip of the
bottom fairing even with the eye bolt. It won't happen to me a second
time but like a lot of other things it is just one of those little items
in the learning curve.
I removed the dam on the front of the baffles the blocks the air to the
two front cylinders (as per Tim Olson's recommendation) and the flight
yesterday dropped the CHT on the two front cylinders by 40 degrees each
and brought them both in line with the other four cylinders.
Russ Daves
N710RV
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
Tim, I too would love to see a 10 ship RV-10 flight. Maybe we can get
enough RV-10's to meet at your strip the Sunday before OSH-2007 to do a
RV-10 formation flight into OSH-2007 and get some pictures prior to the
OSH arrival!!!
Count me in for a noon get together at your strip if it works out.
Russ Daves
N710RV
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 5
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Do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
Looks like this one deserves a mention in a page about flying
the RV-10. I just added it to my tips area and changed "Flight Testing
Info" to "RV-10 Flying and Flight Testing Info". Hopefully future
builders will stumble upon it if we don't discuss it often enough here.
For what it's worth, I have always made it a point to only board one
person at a time ever since Jesse posted his post about his OSH
tail strike a couple OSH's ago. I've never had it tip back on loading,
even with rear passengers, but I've either quickly climbed up and
stood in the doorway on the wing, or waited on the ground until the
other boarding person on the other side has made it to the wing.
The awareness should be enough to prevent the problem, but we
haven't discussed this too often so it's easy to see how it would
be missed.
And Russ, I'm glad to hear that yet another person is seeing better
temps with that air dam cut or removed.
I've still not yet removed mine, but trimmed it very far down and more
shaped like the cylinder head:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20061022/RV200611090001.html
This weekend I went flying to gather a little temperature data for
an upcoming meeting, and the temps were fairly well balanced.
The middle cylinders are the coolest.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Russell Daves wrote:
> I too had the same problem when my buddy Bob K. and I both got on the
> step at the same time. I replaced my rudder bottom fairing with
> nutplates and screws instead of riveting it back on. Still have to
> paint but with my White/Red/Black paint job it doesn't look real bad
> still unpainted.
>
> I am not at all sure that leaving the eye bolt in will solve the problem
> because the angle may still get the rear tail lens and rear tip of the
> bottom fairing even with the eye bolt. It won't happen to me a second
> time but like a lot of other things it is just one of those little items
> in the learning curve.
>
> I removed the dam on the front of the baffles the blocks the air to the
> two front cylinders (as per Tim Olson's recommendation) and the flight
> yesterday dropped the CHT on the two front cylinders by 40 degrees each
> and brought them both in line with the other four cylinders.
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
I think to do a good photo shoot of 10, it would have to be
a pretty wide shot from a little distance, but it would be nice
looking, even if it were only on the ground as a formation.
10 in the air could get very trying. I found that 4-ship formation
to do the 3-ship shot to be a great experience, but it was a huge
challenge to get them all lined up nice...especially since we were
constantly in a slow turn the whole time. Doug shot an awful lot
of photos, and I saw them all....it was neat to see how there really
was only 1 perfect shot, with 4 pilots all varying in position from
time to time.
If we can get the interest in a pre-OSH meetup to fly in together,
I'm all for it. Last year, despite $3.00 gas (or was it $2.90 or
$3.10?), there wasn't any interest...but it really is the perfect
airport for such a gathering. Great runways, no obstructions nearby,
cheap fuel, and only 1 hour from OSH.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Russell Daves wrote:
> Tim, I too would love to see a 10 ship RV-10 flight. Maybe we can get
> enough RV-10's to meet at your strip the Sunday before OSH-2007 to do a
> RV-10 formation flight into OSH-2007 and get some pictures prior to the
> OSH arrival!!!
>
> Count me in for a noon get together at your strip if it works out.
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
If your plane ever hits the tie down ring on the tail be sure to
carefully check for internal damage. This has happened on many
certified aircraft and the damage is hard to detect without close
internal inspection. There is lots of support structure for the tail
feathers back there.
Tom Deutsch
#40545 Almost ready to paint
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt
Looks like this one deserves a mention in a page about flying
the RV-10. I just added it to my tips area and changed "Flight Testing
Info" to "RV-10 Flying and Flight Testing Info". Hopefully future
builders will stumble upon it if we don't discuss it often enough here.
For what it's worth, I have always made it a point to only board one
person at a time ever since Jesse posted his post about his OSH
tail strike a couple OSH's ago. I've never had it tip back on loading,
even with rear passengers, but I've either quickly climbed up and
stood in the doorway on the wing, or waited on the ground until the
other boarding person on the other side has made it to the wing.
The awareness should be enough to prevent the problem, but we
haven't discussed this too often so it's easy to see how it would
be missed.
And Russ, I'm glad to hear that yet another person is seeing better
temps with that air dam cut or removed.
I've still not yet removed mine, but trimmed it very far down and more
shaped like the cylinder head:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20061022/RV200611090001.html
This weekend I went flying to gather a little temperature data for
an upcoming meeting, and the temps were fairly well balanced.
The middle cylinders are the coolest.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Russell Daves wrote:
> I too had the same problem when my buddy Bob K. and I both got on the
> step at the same time. I replaced my rudder bottom fairing with
> nutplates and screws instead of riveting it back on. Still have to
> paint but with my White/Red/Black paint job it doesn't look real bad
> still unpainted.
>
> I am not at all sure that leaving the eye bolt in will solve the
problem
> because the angle may still get the rear tail lens and rear tip of the
> bottom fairing even with the eye bolt. It won't happen to me a second
> time but like a lot of other things it is just one of those little
items
> in the learning curve.
>
> I removed the dam on the front of the baffles the blocks the air to
the
> two front cylinders (as per Tim Olson's recommendation) and the flight
> yesterday dropped the CHT on the two front cylinders by 40 degrees
each
> and brought them both in line with the other four cylinders.
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
Scott,
I know how that feels, although we always leave the bolt in. I posted
on
the list about a year ago that this could happen. In fact, it happened
while taxiing at OSH =9205 after a flight that drained the tanks, with
the
plane full (I am sure some of you remember seeing the busted rear light
on
N256H). When loading the plane full, it is best to fill the co-pilot
seat
first, then the back seats. We have seen this in 2 planes now, so ALL
should take note that this is possible.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt
Hi guys, just wanted to let you all know about an incident I had today
that
could have been prevented. I flew down to Mesquite NV. last Thursday and
was
getting ready to fly back today. As I was loading and getting ready to
fly
back to Salt Lake City, I took out the eye bolts for the tie downs. I
then
loaded two people in the back with luggage. The plane was pointed
slightly
up hill and then both me and my friend stepped on the step and the plane
rocked back. I got off but the plane continued to fall back and the
tail
hit the ground. It slightly bent the bottom fuselage skin at the very
rear
and cracked the rear fiberglass fairing on the rudder. I will have to
replace it and repaint it. It really isn't a big deal but I'm going to
replace the whole fiberglass peice. There would be no scratches or
damage at
all if I would have left the rear tie down in. It would have hit the
ground.
I never thought it would rock back but it did. It was on a slope and
the
wind was blowing pretty hard that pushed the rear of the plane down even
more.
Moral of the story: Put the eye bolt in and keep it there. Don't be
like me
and worry about the .0345256395734 mph that you lose with the eye bolt.
You
can still take out the wing bolts.
Scott Schmidt
N104XP - 72 hours
_____
--
12/8/2006
12:53 PM
--
12/8/2006
12:53 PM
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
I would be happy to meet and follow in a group of 10's, kind of like
strength in numbers.
That is if my hours are flown off in time....
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
I think to do a good photo shoot of 10, it would have to be
a pretty wide shot from a little distance, but it would be nice
looking, even if it were only on the ground as a formation.
10 in the air could get very trying. I found that 4-ship formation
to do the 3-ship shot to be a great experience, but it was a huge
challenge to get them all lined up nice...especially since we were
constantly in a slow turn the whole time. Doug shot an awful lot
of photos, and I saw them all....it was neat to see how there really
was only 1 perfect shot, with 4 pilots all varying in position from
time to time.
If we can get the interest in a pre-OSH meetup to fly in together,
I'm all for it. Last year, despite $3.00 gas (or was it $2.90 or
$3.10?), there wasn't any interest...but it really is the perfect
airport for such a gathering. Great runways, no obstructions nearby,
cheap fuel, and only 1 hour from OSH.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Russell Daves wrote:
> Tim, I too would love to see a 10 ship RV-10 flight. Maybe we can get
> enough RV-10's to meet at your strip the Sunday before OSH-2007 to do
a
> RV-10 formation flight into OSH-2007 and get some pictures prior to
the
> OSH arrival!!!
>
> Count me in for a noon get together at your strip if it works out.
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
Tom, do you also have serial number #40405?
John Cox
#40600
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Deutsch
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt
If your plane ever hits the tie down ring on the tail be sure to
carefully check for internal damage. This has happened on many
certified aircraft and the damage is hard to detect without close
internal inspection. There is lots of support structure for the tail
feathers back there.
Tom Deutsch
#40545 Almost ready to paint
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling |
Thanks Mike but I did it already (see other post). We'll see if the
streching will get me when I rivet. I will try to avoid that in the
future by bending before dimpling.
However, not sure what you mean here, "I would try and find a finger
break big enough to fit it in and bend it slightly that way (plumbing
shop?)".
Bill "Priming today" Watson
Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote:
> Don't use the our edge rolling tool after the dimpling! You will end
> up making a bend that is tight in between dimples and almost non
> existant at the dimple. Furthermore it will roll out or flatten the
> dimples and you will have to re-dimple the row. Redimpling will tend
> to stretch the material slightly. If I were in your position I would
> try and find a finger break big enough to fit it in and bend it
> slightly that way (plumbing shop?). Our tool works great for this
> area if you remember to use it :)
>
> Mike
>
>
> --
> Mike Lauritsen
> Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
> 515-432-6794
> www.cleavelandtool.com <http://www.cleavelandtool.com>
>
>
>
> On Dec 10, 2006, at 1:36 PM, MauleDriver wrote:
>
> MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>
> >
> > I have the Cleaveland edge bending tool. It does a very nice job.
> > However, I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting
> > the slight bend the trailing edge. Has anyone else tried using
> > this tool to bend an edge after dimpling? Any tips?
> >
> > I quickly figured out that the tool probably works best before any
> > dimpling but I had already done the dimpling before learning this.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling |
I went ahead and used the tool. It worked OK once adjusted for a
minimal bend and minimal crushing of the dimples. Rivets would not fit
however so I re-dimpled (thanks Steve). I hope by going gently on all
counts I'll get a good result. The key is to avoid having to do this in
the first place.
Bill
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/10/2006 4:39:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> MauleDriver@nc.rr.com writes:
>
> I dimpled the trailing edge of my elevator before putting the
> slight bend the trailing edge.
>
> If you doubt the quality of the dimple after adding the bend,
> simply drop a rivet in the hole and see if it will sit flush. If not,
> dimple it again, much easier before assembly. It you try to hit a
> rivet a little harder later to make it site flush, you will dent the
> skin just forward of the aluminum wedge piece on the trailing edge.
> Ask me how i know!
>
> Steve
>
>
> Stephen Blank #40499 Building the elevator trim tabs.
> ( i know... very slow progress.. the kit is easy, i am slow.)
>
> 766 SE River Lane
> Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
>
> 772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends
>
> do not archive
> *
>
>
> *
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
How about @ Sun-N-Fun 2007?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 6:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
Tim, I too would love to see a 10 ship RV-10 flight. Maybe we can get
enough RV-10's to meet at your strip the Sunday before OSH-2007 to do a
RV-10 formation flight into OSH-2007 and get some pictures prior to the OSH
arrival!!!
Count me in for a noon get together at your strip if it works out.
Russ Daves
N710RV
DO NOT ARCHIVE
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
12:53 PM
--
12:53 PM
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
Dan there is little reason to follow, just because it's an alternate
powerplant. I will standby on the ground with photogear or in a full
canopy camera ship (the CJ-6) taking airborne photos.
John Cox
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
<LloydDR@wernerco.com>
I would be happy to meet and follow in a group of 10's, kind of like
strength in numbers.
That is if my hours are flown off in time....
Dan
Message 16
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| Subject: | Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
If on a flat surface, leaving the bolt in will prevent hitting the tail
light. Uneven surfaces could cause a problem, as in our experience at OSH.
Also, soft surfaces like grass would be uncertain, because the bolt could
easily sink in with very much pressure, allow other parts to hit.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt
I too had the same problem when my buddy Bob K. and I both got on the step
at the same time. I replaced my rudder bottom fairing with nutplates and
screws instead of riveting it back on. Still have to paint but with my
White/Red/Black paint job it doesn't look real bad still unpainted.
I am not at all sure that leaving the eye bolt in will solve the problem
because the angle may still get the rear tail lens and rear tip of the
bottom fairing even with the eye bolt. It won't happen to me a second time
but like a lot of other things it is just one of those little items in the
learning curve.
I removed the dam on the front of the baffles the blocks the air to the two
front cylinders (as per Tim Olson's recommendation) and the flight yesterday
dropped the CHT on the two front cylinders by 40 degrees each and brought
them both in line with the other four cylinders.
Russ Daves
N710RV
DO NOT ARCHIVE
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
12:53 PM
--
12:53 PM
Message 17
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| Subject: | Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt |
No not mine
Tom Deutsch,
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt
Tom, do you also have serial number #40405?
John Cox
#40600
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Deutsch
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Tie Down Eye Bolt
If your plane ever hits the tie down ring on the tail be sure to
carefully check for internal damage. This has happened on many
certified aircraft and the damage is hard to detect without close
internal inspection. There is lots of support structure for the tail
feathers back there.
Tom Deutsch
#40545 Almost ready to paint
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
If all goes well, I will be leading the pack on the alternative engine
front! And side by side with the Lycomings. But we do not want to start
that again. I get to go down again next week and see progress on the
engine and prop. I will take pics for those that are interested, and
from the last string of email, I am guessing most of us are.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
Dan there is little reason to follow, just because it's an alternate
powerplant. I will standby on the ground with photogear or in a full
canopy camera ship (the CJ-6) taking airborne photos.
John Cox
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
<LloydDR@wernerco.com>
I would be happy to meet and follow in a group of 10's, kind of like
strength in numbers.
That is if my hours are flown off in time....
Dan
Message 19
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Noel,
Thanks for the tip. I have never heard of using baby powder while
dimpling. I'm "itching" to try it:-)
Off topic: I understand your 10 is running with a Catto three bladed
prop. How does your performance compare to the factory numbers?
Vern (#324 fuselage)
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie
Simmons
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 10:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling
The list has been a little slow with regard to the building practices.
Here is a tip on dimpling I just proved to my self.
I started using baby powder on my dimple dies, just a skiff you don't
want clumps. To prove this to my self I just got done dimpling the R&L
lower wing skins of an RV-7 took just over an hour ( I have a dimpling
machine). Using the baby powder I got perfectly formed dimples faster,
when the baby powder wore off the sound of the dimpling process changed
and there was a slight marring for the metal that is usual with
dimpling. You, using your Avery dimpler will defiantly see the
difference.
One more note on baby powder: the reason I have it at the shop is for
fiberglass and carbon fiber work. Some times I get itchy and the baby
powder applied before I start sanding will eliminate itchiness.
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net/>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Hot Starts Lycoming? |
Sure.
Mixture full out
Throttle 1/8"
Crank engine until it fires, then immediately set Mixture all in and turn on Boost
pump.
I found that sometimes if you don't get the boost pump on right after it fires,
the engine will fire and run for 2 seconds or so then quit. I believe this
is because it burns up all the fuel in the cyclinders from the hot start conditions
and then it doesn't have new fuel to continue running. By the way the boost
pump can then be turned off about 10 seconds after the start.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV Flying and 188 on the Hobbs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of C Smith
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 10:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hot Starts Lycoming?
Any one care to share their hot start tips?????
CS
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
Thanks Lloyd, although I have already made my choice, overhauled IO-540, I
would love to see an alternative. You never know, I may fly the wings off
this thing and have to consider a new engine in a couple of
years.......decades.
Now if I could only get through all this fiberglass work.....
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
If all goes well, I will be leading the pack on the alternative engine
front! And side by side with the Lycomings. But we do not want to start
that again. I get to go down again next week and see progress on the
engine and prop. I will take pics for those that are interested, and
from the last string of email, I am guessing most of us are.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
Dan there is little reason to follow, just because it's an alternate
powerplant. I will standby on the ground with photogear or in a full
canopy camera ship (the CJ-6) taking airborne photos.
John Cox
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
<LloydDR@wernerco.com>
I would be happy to meet and follow in a group of 10's, kind of like
strength in numbers.
That is if my hours are flown off in time....
Dan
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: tough or impossible floor pan rivets? |
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> Here is one from the archives.
> Good Luck
> Hope yours comes out better than my mangled pop rivets.
> Larry #356
> --------------------------
>
> This is bit of an old issue, but I recently won the battle against the
> "impossible rivets" on the rear seat pans and I thought I would share
> my method.
Gives a new meaning to perseverance! I've not seen where the rivet(s)
are, so pardon the question. What's so important about this particular
hole that it HAS to be filled???? Just asking.
Linn
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
Daniel,
Just a reminder, shoot me a picture of that battery tray when you get it
back from the welder.
Also, with the long battery run from the mid fuse location, perhaps #4/#6
cable will be better than the #6/#8 as suggested for the firewall mount.
Getting close to ordering the wire.
John Gonzalez, About to start closing up the baggage floors and rear seats.
Do Not Archive
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:24:52 -0500
>
>
>If all goes well, I will be leading the pack on the alternative engine
>front! And side by side with the Lycomings. But we do not want to start
>that again. I get to go down again next week and see progress on the
>engine and prop. I will take pics for those that are interested, and
>from the last string of email, I am guessing most of us are.
>Dan
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
>Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:44 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
>
>
>Dan there is little reason to follow, just because it's an alternate
>powerplant. I will standby on the ground with photogear or in a full
>canopy camera ship (the CJ-6) taking airborne photos.
>
>John Cox
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
>R.
>Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 7:15 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
>
><LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>I would be happy to meet and follow in a group of 10's, kind of like
>strength in numbers.
>That is if my hours are flown off in time....
>Dan
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | floor pan rivets |
Chris,
I just completed this step last week. I was able to get at all of the
forward-most pop rivets, including the outboard one, by inserting the rivet
first and then sliding the tool down over the shaft. There appeared to be a
slight angle between the tip of the squeezer and the rivet, but the shaft came
out fine and the rivet is set properly.
Hope this helps!
Jay
Installing steps
tough or impossible floor pan rivets?
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
hey all -
how has anyone handled the forward most outboard rivet on the F-1016C
L/R floors? i'm installing them, and i can't for the life of me see how
to get either a pop rivet or a driven rivet in there. very curious.
help!
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
do not archive
Cheap talk?
Message 25
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Is it important to not only shield headphone jack and mic jack wire, but to
also use a shielded wire for the strobe wire run...perhaps to keep the
energy inside the wire????????
Having truoble getting through all the reading material while building. Only
so much time in a 24 hr, seven day week.
JOhn G.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
I know they spread but I meant does the alignment of the fairings change (in
regards to the centerline of the plane) with and without weight on them?
If the alignment changes in reference to the centerline of the plane it
might be best to align the fairings with the weight off the gear.
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
>
> Absolutely. It spreads as you put weight on them.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> KiloPapa wrote:
>>
>> Does the geometry of the gear legs change with the full weight of the
>> airplane on them and suspended as in flight?
>>
>> Kevin
>> 40494
>> tail/empennage
>>
>> do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
Well, the fairings attach to the gear legs, so sure, they change too.
On Page 48-4 Step 5 "Raise the airplane on jacks...."
So you do indeed jack the plane to do the fairings, and then you align
them along their "roll" axis so they align with the tire tread.
Then in future steps, you do the alignment just as you say, with
the weight off the gear. That way if there is any change in toe due
to the weight, you don't have to worry about it in flight. Nobody
cares if they're a little off on the ground, but in flight you'd
want them very very close.
So yep, do it without the weight on them. They just make that one
mention above on 48-4, but from that point on, the alignment is all
with weight off.
Note: This is one reason that most builders will want to consider
making up a pair of jackstands like I did on my tips page, because
you'll want them for when you get to the fairings if you have
the wings installed, and the jackstands are also extremely helpful
for other maintenance down the road. I just used them for
flipping my tires.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Page 48-4 Step 5 "Raise the airplane on jacks...."
KiloPapa wrote:
>
> I know they spread but I meant does the alignment of the fairings change
> (in regards to the centerline of the plane) with and without weight on
> them?
> If the alignment changes in reference to the centerline of the plane it
> might be best to align the fairings with the weight off the gear.
>
> Kevin
> 40494
> tail/empennage
>
> do not archive
>
>>
>> Absolutely. It spreads as you put weight on them.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> KiloPapa wrote:
>>>
>>> Does the geometry of the gear legs change with the full weight of the
>>> airplane on them and suspended as in flight?
>>>
>>> Kevin
>>> 40494
>>> tail/empennage
>>>
>>> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire. |
John,
The strobe wires are sheilded, 4 wire stuff with a foil sheild and one bare, one
white, one clear, one red and one black. The wire came with my strobe package
from Creative Air.
Rick S.
40185
Message 29
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| Subject: | OB leading edge skins |
I've been working on the outboard leading edges and noticed that there is a slight
spanwise bend on the lower surface about 6 (I think) rivet holes back from
the leading edge. If I run my hand over the airfoil, like air passing over it,
I can feel a slight bump at this bend. Is this supposed to be there? Has
anyone else seen/heard of this?
Thanks,
Todd Agold
#40362
---------------------------------
Message 30
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| Subject: | tough or impossible floor pan rivets? |
I left mine open for better ventilation in the foot well area.....
-Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Johnston [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 1:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tough or impossible floor pan rivets?
hey all -
how has anyone handled the forward most outboard rivet on the F-1016C
L/R floors? i'm installing them, and i can't for the life of me see how
to get either a pop rivet or a driven rivet in there. very curious.
help!
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
do not archive
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals |
John,
Here's a suggestion I received in answer to the same question.
Operators Manual, Lycoming Revision 60297-10-5 (If you order a new
engine this should come with it.
The Lycoming Engine Parts Manual is PC-215-1 dated June 1993.
A complete set of Service Bulletins, Instructions, and Letters is BS-147.
The Lycoming Trouble-Shooting Manual is SSP-475.
Lycoming Special Tools Catalog is SSP-384.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Testement RM wrote:
> For those of you flying with the IO-540 D4A5, what engine manuals to
> you recommend buying. I understand there is a parts manual and an
> overhaul manual. I don't plan to be overhauling (have a new Aerosport
> engine) but do want a reference for general maintenance, torque
> values, etc. What is the best source for these? Lycoming direct?
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-) |
Another builder of a 7 had the same question when locating the batteries
aft in the tail cone, and Gary still recommended using the #6, that is
the same distance I have from the baggage bulkhead to the firewall, so I
ordered #6 from Stein. Will do on the picture from the welder.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Daniel,
Just a reminder, shoot me a picture of that battery tray when you get it
back from the welder.
Also, with the long battery run from the mid fuse location, perhaps
#4/#6
cable will be better than the #6/#8 as suggested for the firewall mount.
Getting close to ordering the wire.
John Gonzalez, About to start closing up the baggage floors and rear
seats.
Do Not Archive
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:24:52 -0500
>
<LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>If all goes well, I will be leading the pack on the alternative engine
>front! And side by side with the Lycomings. But we do not want to start
>that again. I get to go down again next week and see progress on the
>engine and prop. I will take pics for those that are interested, and
>from the last string of email, I am guessing most of us are.
>Dan
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
>Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:44 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
>
>
>Dan there is little reason to follow, just because it's an alternate
>powerplant. I will standby on the ground with photogear or in a full
>canopy camera ship (the CJ-6) taking airborne photos.
>
>John Cox
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd,
Daniel
>R.
>Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 7:15 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Mr. Olson finally made it to the press :-)
>
><LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>I would be happy to meet and follow in a group of 10's, kind of like
>strength in numbers.
>That is if my hours are flown off in time....
>Dan
>
>
Message 33
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Hey all -
Stupid question of the day... for the fuel pump installation (injected)
you just buy the pump from vans? There's no injected fuel pump "kit"
with other parts that you wish you had? I saw a kit like that for the
320-360, but nothing for the 540. Everything else that I need for the
fuel section is provided in the kit? I know about the transducer -
anything else? I'm trying to have everything I need for a full TWO
WEEKS of building that I'll be doing over Christmas holiday!
Thanks
cj
#4040
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
do not archive
Message 34
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No, all you need is the fuel pump and filter. The mounting bracket is already
in the RV-10 kit.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 2:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel pump
Hey all -
Stupid question of the day... for the fuel pump installation (injected)
you just buy the pump from vans? There's no injected fuel pump "kit"
with other parts that you wish you had? I saw a kit like that for the
320-360, but nothing for the 540. Everything else that I need for the
fuel section is provided in the kit? I know about the transducer -
anything else? I'm trying to have everything I need for a full TWO
WEEKS of building that I'll be doing over Christmas holiday!
Thanks
cj
#4040
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
do not archive
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals |
How much of these manuals, if any, comes with an engine from BPE?
Larry Rosen
#356
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> John,
>
> Here's a suggestion I received in answer to the same question.
>
> Operators Manual, Lycoming Revision 60297-10-5 (If you order a new
> engine this should come with it.
> The Lycoming Engine Parts Manual is PC-215-1 dated June 1993.
> A complete set of Service Bulletins, Instructions, and Letters is BS-147.
> The Lycoming Trouble-Shooting Manual is SSP-475. Lycoming Special
> Tools Catalog is SSP-384.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> John Testement RM wrote:
>
>> For those of you flying with the IO-540 D4A5, what engine manuals to
>> you recommend buying. I understand there is a parts manual and an
>> overhaul manual. I don't plan to be overhauling (have a new Aerosport
>> engine) but do want a reference for general maintenance, torque
>> values, etc. What is the best source for these? Lycoming direct?
>>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently seeking |
)
Thanks Tim, that's the info I was looking for. Yes, I like your jackstand
idea.
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Deperately seeking opinions - (well maybe urgently
seeking )
>
> Well, the fairings attach to the gear legs, so sure, they change too.
>
> On Page 48-4 Step 5 "Raise the airplane on jacks...."
>
> So you do indeed jack the plane to do the fairings, and then you align
> them along their "roll" axis so they align with the tire tread.
> Then in future steps, you do the alignment just as you say, with
> the weight off the gear. That way if there is any change in toe due
> to the weight, you don't have to worry about it in flight. Nobody
> cares if they're a little off on the ground, but in flight you'd
> want them very very close.
>
> So yep, do it without the weight on them. They just make that one
> mention above on 48-4, but from that point on, the alignment is all
> with weight off.
>
> Note: This is one reason that most builders will want to consider
> making up a pair of jackstands like I did on my tips page, because
> you'll want them for when you get to the fairings if you have
> the wings installed, and the jackstands are also extremely helpful
> for other maintenance down the road. I just used them for
> flipping my tires.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
> KiloPapa wrote:
>>
>> I know they spread but I meant does the alignment of the fairings change
>> (in regards to the centerline of the plane) with and without weight on
>> them?
>> If the alignment changes in reference to the centerline of the plane it
>> might be best to align the fairings with the weight off the gear.
>>
>> Kevin
>> 40494
>> tail/empennage
Message 37
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Don't forget all the shopping leading up to the holiday and then all those
returns and family commitments. Two weeks..I bet not.
Do Not Archive
>From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: fuel pump
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 12:21:24 -0800
>
>
>Hey all -
>
>Stupid question of the day... for the fuel pump installation (injected)
>you just buy the pump from vans? There's no injected fuel pump "kit"
>with other parts that you wish you had? I saw a kit like that for the
>320-360, but nothing for the 540. Everything else that I need for the
>fuel section is provided in the kit? I know about the transducer -
>anything else? I'm trying to have everything I need for a full TWO
>WEEKS of building that I'll be doing over Christmas holiday!
>
>Thanks
>cj
>
>#4040
>fuse
>www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>do not archive
>
>
Message 38
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You will also need the filter. They are sold separately. ES/EA Airflow
Filter and ES/EA Airflow Fuel Pump are the names of the parts, I believe.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 3:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel pump
Hey all -
Stupid question of the day... for the fuel pump installation (injected)
you just buy the pump from vans? There's no injected fuel pump "kit"
with other parts that you wish you had? I saw a kit like that for the
320-360, but nothing for the 540. Everything else that I need for the
fuel section is provided in the kit? I know about the transducer -
anything else? I'm trying to have everything I need for a full TWO
WEEKS of building that I'll be doing over Christmas holiday!
Thanks
cj
#4040
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
do not archive
--
12:53 PM
--
12:53 PM
Message 39
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| Subject: | Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals |
Larry:
Lycoming doesn't ship the experimental kit engines with an operator's
manual. Not sure why, although we have discussed it several times with
them. However, I'm happy to supply you with one.
Best,
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lycoming IO-540 Maintenance Manuals
How much of these manuals, if any, comes with an engine from BPE?
Larry Rosen
#356
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> John,
>
> Here's a suggestion I received in answer to the same question.
>
> Operator's Manual, Lycoming Revision 60297-10-5 (If you order a new
> engine this should come with it.
> The Lycoming Engine Parts Manual is PC-215-1 dated June 1993.
> A complete set of Service Bulletins, Instructions, and Letters is
BS-147.
> The Lycoming Trouble-Shooting Manual is SSP-475. Lycoming Special
> Tools Catalog is SSP-384.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> John Testement RM wrote:
>
>> For those of you flying with the IO-540 D4A5, what engine manuals to
>> you recommend buying. I understand there is a parts manual and an
>> overhaul manual. I don't plan to be overhauling (have a new Aerosport
>> engine) but do want a reference for general maintenance, torque
>> values, etc. What is the best source for these? Lycoming direct?
>>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Priming Question - When To Do |
Les,=0A=0AHere is why I prime as the last step.=0A=0A- Avoids a lot of s
cratches on the primer.=0A=0A- The conversion coating/ primer gets aroun
d the perimeter of the holes which is a likely location for corrosion to st
art.=0A=0A- The primed surface stays cleaner as its not handled as much.
=0A=0A- Sometimes dimpling a primed surface debonds the primer.=0A=0ANik
o=0A40188=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Les Kearney <kearney@
shaw.ca>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11
:21:53 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do=0A=0A=0AHi=0A
=0AOne of the things I have been doing during my empennage construction pr
ocess is to clean / deburr and prep all parts prior to initial assembly and
match drilling. After drilling, I deburr all holes drilled and then procee
d to final assembly and riveting.=0A =0AReading other posts, I believe that
others prime as a last step before assembly & riveting.=0A =0AIs there any
compelling reason to prefer one way over the other?=0A =0AInquiring minds
need to know=0A =0ALes Kearney=0ARV10 =0A#40643 ' lost in the empennage
==
Message 41
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| Subject: | 7.9mm ream anyone |
Are there any of the flying RV-10 builders that would like to sell their
7.9 MM ream?
John Cox
#40600
Message 42
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| Subject: | Priming Question - When To Do |
For those who are priming, I assume that you are doing some sort of
scuffing
before priming. Maybe the Alodine does the trick, but for those who use
scotchbrite, the dimples really tear that stuff up. It helps to use the
scotchbrite before dimpling, then priming as the last step before final
assembly.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Niko
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do
Les,
Here is why I prime as the last step.
- Avoids a lot of scratches on the primer.
- The conversion coating/ primer gets around the perimeter of the
holes
which is a likely location for corrosion to start.
- The primed surface stays cleaner as its not handled as much.
- Sometimes dimpling a primed surface debonds the primer.
Niko
40188
----- Original Message ----
From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:21:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do
Hi
One of the things I have been doing during my empennage construction
process
is to clean / deburr and prep all parts prior to initial assembly and
match
drilling. After drilling, I deburr all holes drilled and then proceed to
final assembly and riveting.
Reading other posts, I believe that others prime as a last step before
assembly & riveting.
Is there any compelling reason to prefer one way over the other?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
RV10
#40643 ' lost in the empennage
HYPERLINK "http://www.aeroelectric.com/" \nttp://www.buildersbooks.com/"
target=_blank rel=nofollow>www.buildersbobuiltHELP HYPERLINK
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com/"
\nhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution</A>
HYPERLINK "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
HYPERLINK "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
HYPERLINK "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
HYPERLINK "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
HYPERLINK
==================
======
Please
Support Your Lists This Month --
(And
Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
is
the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
Contribution link below to find out more about
year's
Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
AeroElectric HYPERLINK "http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
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"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
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ion
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12:53 PM
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12/8/2006
12:53 PM
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Priming Question - When To Do |
In a message dated 12/11/06 7:36:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jesse@itecusa.org writes:
For those who are priming, I assume that you are doing some sort of scuffing
before priming. Maybe the Alodine does the trick, but for those who use
scotchbrite, the dimples really tear that stuff up.
Before Alodine, the surface is etched with Phosphoric Acid. This is
much kinder vs. scotchbrite and more thorough. Spray on, rinse off, Alodine,
rinse, dry. Primer if desired.
Steve
do not archive
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Priming Question - When To Do |
I scuffed my parts with scotchbrite even when I alodined them. Probably
didn't need to though, but it's still good to wipe them with something
to degrease them to allow the etch to get to it better.
When I had items that I did not alodine, like some skins, I used a 4"x4"
electric palm sander, with 1/2 sheet (fit just perfectly) of scotchbrite
pad instead of a sanding pad. That made very quick and even work out
of scuffing skins for primer prep, and the akzo then stuck to it really
well.
Worked for me.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/11/06 7:36:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> jesse@itecusa.org writes:
>
> For those who are priming, I assume that you are doing some sort of
> scuffing before priming. Maybe the Alodine does the trick, but for
> those who use scotchbrite, the dimples really tear that stuff up.
>
> Before Alodine, the surface is etched with Phosphoric Acid. This is
> much kinder vs. scotchbrite and more thorough. Spray on, rinse off,
> Alodine, rinse, dry. Primer if desired.
>
> Steve
>
> do not archive
>
> *
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Priming Question - When To Do |
Steve, excellent post. Scotchbrite physically marks (abraids) the
alclad which is only 5% of the total material thickness. 0.025" T
0.00125" pure aluminum on the each outside surface. Aggression when
using scotchbrite (red) pads often goes clear through to the base
material. Properly mixed and applied phosphoric acid chemically etches
the Alclad leaving it receptive to an adhesion bond to the applied
primer.
We tend to clean with Alcohol or MEK, apply Phosphoric acid for up to 2
minutes, then fresh water rinse. Apply Alodine for 2-5 minutes max,
then fresh water rinse again.
Read and understand the MSDS sheet for the products being used. Wear
protective clothing. Visit Tim's site for the process he followed.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/paint/alodining.html
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 5:03 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do
In a message dated 12/11/06 7:36:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jesse@itecusa.org writes:
For those who are priming, I assume that you are doing
some sort of scuffing before priming. Maybe the Alodine does the trick,
but for those who use scotchbrite, the dimples really tear that stuff
up.
Before Alodine, the surface is etched with Phosphoric Acid.
This is much kinder vs. scotchbrite and more thorough. Spray on, rinse
off, Alodine, rinse, dry. Primer if desired.
Steve
do not archive
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | 7.9mm ream anyone |
John,
I won't sell it but you are welcome to use it for as long as you need it.
Just promise to pass it along to the next builder. Send me your mailing
address.
Mark ( (410MR)
40043
>From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm ream anyone
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 16:25:38 -0800
>
>Are there any of the flying RV-10 builders that would like to sell their
>7.9 MM ream?
>
>John Cox
>#40600
>
_________________________________________________________________
Talk now to your Hotmail contacts with Windows Live Messenger.
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | 7.9mm ream anyone |
On this subject, how many have reamed the landing gear holes rather than
drilled them? I reamed the mounts to 7.9mm so I have the reamer. But
the actual landing gear itself is one hunk o' steel. Is it difficult to
ream?
cheers
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Tuesday, 12 December 2006 1:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 7.9mm ream anyone
John,
I won't sell it but you are welcome to use it for as long as you need
it.
Just promise to pass it along to the next builder. Send me your mailing
address.
Mark ( (410MR)
40043
>From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm ream anyone
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 16:25:38 -0800
>
>Are there any of the flying RV-10 builders that would like to sell
their
>7.9 MM ream?
>
>John Cox
>#40600
>
_________________________________________________________________
Talk now to your Hotmail contacts with Windows Live Messenger.
Message 48
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| Subject: | Newest 10 Builder |
I have been looking and drooling over the 10 since April of this year. Took the
2-many-thousand-$ flight at Oshkosh and ordered my Emp and Wings this morning.
Tells you what I though of the flight and the plane. :D
This afternoon I got my builder number which is 674 so I dont think we can get
a better update as to how many 10 kits have been sold/started through today.
As to lead times, the Emp kit should ship Friday of this week or early next week
and the Wing kit will ship right at 8 weeks from now, but might be 7 weeks.
I am sure the lead times will increase as Dec 31 approaches.
I am excited about joining this elite group.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p935#80935
Message 49
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| Subject: | Newest 10 Builder |
Welcome aboard.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Newest 10 Builder
I have been looking and drooling over the 10 since April of this year. Took
the 2-many-thousand-$ flight at Oshkosh and ordered my Emp and Wings this
morning. Tells you what I though of the flight and the plane. :D
This afternoon I got my builder number which is 674 so I dont think we
can get a better update as to how many 10 kits have been sold/started
through today.
As to lead times, the Emp kit should ship Friday of this week or early next
week and the Wing kit will ship right at 8 weeks from now, but might be 7
weeks. I am sure the lead times will increase as Dec 31 approaches.
I am excited about joining this elite group.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p935#80935
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Bending skin edges after dimpling |
I also dimpled our elevator edges before bending. Even though I already
owned the Cleveland tool, I could see that it would ride over the dimples.
So I ordered Avery's tool (the two little white nylon wheels) and used it.
I was a little worried about how it would turn out, but just gathered my
courage and carefully drew it along the edge, forming just the slightest
bend between the dimples and the edge. It all went together very nicely.
Thanks Avery! Someone ought to have Van's put a note in the elevator
instructions about bending before dimpling.
Bill Reining (with my son Jon)
40514
Tail Cone - interrupted by household move
Message 51
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Anybody have a measurement from the ground to the belly of the aircraft, or
how high do I need to hoist/jack the fuse up in order to slide the gear legs
in?
Rob Wright
#392
Fuse
Message 52
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| Subject: | Wire routing--TUNNEL? |
So many people have discussed the hot tunnel temperatures associated with
their Lycoming heating and air system. First, is there any left over room
in the tunnel for anything, as in wire bundles, upper right and left
corners. Is the temperature in the tunnel so hot that is makes it an
impractical area to route anything except hot water to make cocoa on long
flights?
Thinking about putting in a third hole in the bulkheads above the main spar
Just thinking, Just asking.
John G.
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Priming Question - When To Do |
Jesse and Steve
After match drilling and deburring, I scuff with scotchbrite and then
dimple so all the dimples are uniformly scuffed before priming and the
scotchbrite doesn't catch on the flat deburred holes.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fus/Finish/FWF
----- Original Message -----
From: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do
In a message dated 12/11/06 7:36:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jesse@itecusa.org writes:
For those who are priming, I assume that you are doing some sort of
scuffing before priming. Maybe the Alodine does the trick, but for
those who use scotchbrite, the dimples really tear that stuff up.
Before Alodine, the surface is etched with Phosphoric Acid. This
is much kinder vs. scotchbrite and more thorough. Spray on, rinse off,
Alodine, rinse, dry. Primer if desired.
Steve
do not archive
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in their emails.Try SPAMfighter for free now!
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Priming Question - When To Do |
Good tip on the scotchbrite before dimpling.
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Priming Question - When To Do
For those who are priming, I assume that you are doing some sort of
scuffing before priming. Maybe the Alodine does the trick, but for
those who use scotchbrite, the dimples really tear that stuff up. It
helps to use the scotchbrite before dimpling, then priming as the last
step before final assembly.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Message 55
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I do not have the measurement, but I had mine on top of a regular
cafeteria
table from the aviation department of Sams...
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: clearance
Anybody have a measurement from the ground to the belly of the aircraft,
or
how high do I need to hoist/jack the fuse up in order to slide the gear
legs
in?
Rob Wright
#392
Fuse
Message 56
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Well there you have it, John you have not bought the week stretcher. You
can get it from either Stein, Avery or Cleveland and the price is only $450
for the economy version. It gives you a 27 hour day and an 8 day week.
Rick Sked bought one a year ago and has had great success with it.
Bob K
To thrifty to buy a week stretcher. Still working the 168 hour week. Do
not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shielded wire.
Is it important to not only shield headphone jack and mic jack wire, but to
also use a shielded wire for the strobe wire run...perhaps to keep the
energy inside the wire????????
Having truoble getting through all the reading material while building. Only
so much time in a 24 hr, seven day week.
JOhn G.
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