RV10-List Digest Archive

Wed 12/27/06


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 08:18 AM - Re: RV10 jacks. (John Gonzalez)
     2. 09:39 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (Pascal)
     3. 01:54 PM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (Larry Rosen)
     4. 05:11 PM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (Tim Olson)
     5. 06:13 PM - Surface Corrosion? (Les Kearney)
     6. 08:44 PM - Re: Surface Corrosion? (Dave Leikam)
     7. 10:18 PM - Re: Surface Corrosion? (Les Kearney)
     8. 10:30 PM - Re: Surface Corrosion? (Les Kearney)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 08:18:40 AM PST US
    From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
    Subject: RV10 jacks.
    Nice engineering. Thanks for the pictures, those are really cool. JOhn G. Do Not Archive >From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >Subject: RV10-List: RV10 jacks. >Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 19:48:57 -0700 > >picture of the jacks for the RV10. Note that although they think of the >jackpads of having a .5" diameter it is actually .7". we will need to >enlarge the cup in the end of the threaded rod. a 12" threaded rod allows >these jacks to range from 27" low to 42" high. lift from starting position >is 8+". Note that they have a mechanical lock to protect against hydraulic >failure. do not archive. >The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link >attachments: >IMG_0030 ><< IMG_0030.JPG >>


    Message 2


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    Time: 09:39:02 AM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Work Table Size
    Hi Tim! Little question to make my mind need to work less.. you wrote: One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so it isn't in the way while you drill -- Been thinking of doing this myself and wonder what size copper piping did you use?.. I gather it was 1/4 with 90degree elbows.. if you can fill give me, I can continue that engineering piece for the start in 2007. I am in the exact same situation you were in 2/3 years ago. 3 year old and building up funds to get started. Looking at mid year 2007 if all goes well between now and than at work, I'm anxious to start but in no rush. Merry Christmas and wishes for a great 2007. Pascal PS: Disneyland offer for a place for your family to stay stands for 2007 lest you forget the offer. Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 4:41 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size > > Yes, you can blame me. I took those plans and did some calculations to > efficiently allow them to be built either to 24" or 32". In my case, > I'm glad I had 32", but it really is just a personal preference. I had > no problem laying a wing on it, and since I didn't solid-mount my > C-Frame dimpler, I found the width to be a great help. In addition, you > end up getting lots and lots of supplies on the table sometimes, and > having the extra width can be a good thing. 32" was not at all too > wide to work comfortably on both sides of RV-10 parts. > > That said, if you're space limited, or prefer skinny tables, then 24" > might be just the ticket. It's just personal preference. > > Some people liked theirs moveable with rollers. I preferred mine to > be super solid heavy and unyielding. I really is no big deal either > way, and often could be dependent on the rest of your shop. If I had > unlimited space, I'd have had a couple more of the ones Like I have, > and scattered them around a bit. One thing for sure, when you get > yourself a good sturdy set of tables, you'll find building to go > smoother. Also, it was handy having a top that you didn't mind drilling > into, or painting. > > One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system > with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's > nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so > it isn't in the way while you drill, and really beats tripping over > a 25' hose on the ground. > > So yep, I confused the issue by giving 2 options for the standard > EAA Plans. Sucks to have options, doesn't it. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > do not archive > > > orchidman wrote: >> >> >> owl40188(at)yahoo.com wrote: >>> I have used two 8ft by 2 ft tables. Built similarly to those in >>> the EAA site. They worked great. A 32 inch table should work >>> great also but I wouldn't go any wider than that. I used a 2ft >>> depth because I slit a 4x8 plywood sheet in the middle for the two >>> table tops. A more important item might be table height. You >>> don't want to have to bend down for a long period of time while >>> working on your kit. >>> >>> Niko 40188- >> >> Thanks, It looks like my problems are because of Tim! Can I blame >> him :D >> >> The plans he has on his site show both 24" and 32" and this is what I >> was questioning. Which is best for the 10. Eveyone that has replied >> so far has referenced the plans from what looks like the same group >> of people but only has the 24" size. No reference to 32" wide. It is >> looking like 24" is winning. This is what I needed to know so I can >> build them this weekend. >> >> -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not >> archive >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81590#81590 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 01:54:58 PM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Work Table Size
    I used 1/2" copper pipe. I plumbed 3 stations. One near the compressor and the other two on the far side of the garage. Larry #356 Pascal wrote: > > Hi Tim! > Little question to make my mind need to work less.. > you wrote: > One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system > with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's > nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so it > isn't in the way while you drill > -- > Been thinking of doing this myself and wonder what size copper piping > did you use?.. I gather it was 1/4 with 90degree elbows.. if you can > fill give me, I can continue that engineering piece for the start in > 2007. > I am in the exact same situation you were in 2/3 years ago. 3 year old > and building up funds to get started. Looking at mid year 2007 if all > goes well between now and than at work, I'm anxious to start but in no > rush. > > Merry Christmas and wishes for a great 2007. > > Pascal > > PS: Disneyland offer for a place for your family to stay stands for > 2007 lest you forget the offer. > > Pascal > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 4:41 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size > > >> >> Yes, you can blame me. I took those plans and did some calculations to >> efficiently allow them to be built either to 24" or 32". In my case, >> I'm glad I had 32", but it really is just a personal preference. I had >> no problem laying a wing on it, and since I didn't solid-mount my >> C-Frame dimpler, I found the width to be a great help. In addition, you >> end up getting lots and lots of supplies on the table sometimes, and >> having the extra width can be a good thing. 32" was not at all too >> wide to work comfortably on both sides of RV-10 parts. >> >> That said, if you're space limited, or prefer skinny tables, then 24" >> might be just the ticket. It's just personal preference. >> >> Some people liked theirs moveable with rollers. I preferred mine to >> be super solid heavy and unyielding. I really is no big deal either >> way, and often could be dependent on the rest of your shop. If I had >> unlimited space, I'd have had a couple more of the ones Like I have, >> and scattered them around a bit. One thing for sure, when you get >> yourself a good sturdy set of tables, you'll find building to go >> smoother. Also, it was handy having a top that you didn't mind drilling >> into, or painting. >> >> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system >> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's >> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so >> it isn't in the way while you drill, and really beats tripping over >> a 25' hose on the ground. >> >> So yep, I confused the issue by giving 2 options for the standard >> EAA Plans. Sucks to have options, doesn't it. >> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying >> do not archive >> >> >> orchidman wrote: >>> >>> >>> owl40188(at)yahoo.com wrote: >>>> I have used two 8ft by 2 ft tables. Built similarly to those in >>>> the EAA site. They worked great. A 32 inch table should work >>>> great also but I wouldn't go any wider than that. I used a 2ft >>>> depth because I slit a 4x8 plywood sheet in the middle for the two >>>> table tops. A more important item might be table height. You >>>> don't want to have to bend down for a long period of time while >>>> working on your kit. >>>> >>>> Niko 40188- >>> >>> Thanks, It looks like my problems are because of Tim! Can I blame >>> him :D >>> >>> The plans he has on his site show both 24" and 32" and this is what I >>> was questioning. Which is best for the 10. Eveyone that has replied >>> so far has referenced the plans from what looks like the same group >>> of people but only has the 24" size. No reference to 32" wide. It is >>> looking like 24" is winning. This is what I needed to know so I can >>> build them this weekend. >>> >>> -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not >>> archive >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81590#81590 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:11:10 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: Work Table Size
    Hi Pascal, I used 1/2" galvanized pipe, but I think 1/2" copper would be better unless you can put lots of moisture separation in front of it. Just make sure the copper is good for about 150psi and that would be great. It really is nice having a couple of runs down the ceiling so you can work on either side of the airplane. I put one down each side of the workbench, but should have put one down the other side of the garage too. It's pretty cheap to do. The pipe isn't a big cost. Just the coupler fittings. It'll be great to hear how things go as you get started with it all. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Pascal wrote: > > Hi Tim! > Little question to make my mind need to work less.. > you wrote: > One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system > with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's > nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so it > isn't in the way while you drill > -- > Been thinking of doing this myself and wonder what size copper piping > did you use?.. I gather it was 1/4 with 90degree elbows.. if you can > fill give me, I can continue that engineering piece for the start in 2007. > I am in the exact same situation you were in 2/3 years ago. 3 year old > and building up funds to get started. Looking at mid year 2007 if all > goes well between now and than at work, I'm anxious to start but in no > rush. > > Merry Christmas and wishes for a great 2007. > > Pascal > > PS: Disneyland offer for a place for your family to stay stands for 2007 > lest you forget the offer. > > Pascal > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 4:41 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size > > >> >> Yes, you can blame me. I took those plans and did some calculations to >> efficiently allow them to be built either to 24" or 32". In my case, >> I'm glad I had 32", but it really is just a personal preference. I had >> no problem laying a wing on it, and since I didn't solid-mount my >> C-Frame dimpler, I found the width to be a great help. In addition, you >> end up getting lots and lots of supplies on the table sometimes, and >> having the extra width can be a good thing. 32" was not at all too >> wide to work comfortably on both sides of RV-10 parts. >> >> That said, if you're space limited, or prefer skinny tables, then 24" >> might be just the ticket. It's just personal preference. >> >> Some people liked theirs moveable with rollers. I preferred mine to >> be super solid heavy and unyielding. I really is no big deal either >> way, and often could be dependent on the rest of your shop. If I had >> unlimited space, I'd have had a couple more of the ones Like I have, >> and scattered them around a bit. One thing for sure, when you get >> yourself a good sturdy set of tables, you'll find building to go >> smoother. Also, it was handy having a top that you didn't mind drilling >> into, or painting. >> >> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system >> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's >> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so >> it isn't in the way while you drill, and really beats tripping over >> a 25' hose on the ground. >> >> So yep, I confused the issue by giving 2 options for the standard >> EAA Plans. Sucks to have options, doesn't it. >> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying >> do not archive >> >> >> orchidman wrote: >>> >>> >>> owl40188(at)yahoo.com wrote: >>>> I have used two 8ft by 2 ft tables. Built similarly to those in >>>> the EAA site. They worked great. A 32 inch table should work >>>> great also but I wouldn't go any wider than that. I used a 2ft >>>> depth because I slit a 4x8 plywood sheet in the middle for the two >>>> table tops. A more important item might be table height. You >>>> don't want to have to bend down for a long period of time while >>>> working on your kit. >>>> >>>> Niko 40188- >>> >>> Thanks, It looks like my problems are because of Tim! Can I blame >>> him :D >>> >>> The plans he has on his site show both 24" and 32" and this is what I >>> was questioning. Which is best for the 10. Eveyone that has replied >>> so far has referenced the plans from what looks like the same group >>> of people but only has the 24" size. No reference to 32" wide. It is >>> looking like 24" is winning. This is what I needed to know so I can >>> build them this weekend. >>> >>> -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not >>> archive >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81590#81590 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> >> >> >> > > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:13:08 PM PST US
    From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Surface Corrosion?
    Hi This evening I was starting to prep my tail cone parts. When removing the vinyl wrap, one piece had some unusual surface discoloration. I thought it might be some adhesive and tried removing it with lacquer thinner but to no avail. It looks like a mineral deposit of some sort. Is this surface corrosion and if so how to handle this. I have attached a couple of pictures. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage PS: I hope everyone had a fun Christmas and is looking forward to a great New Year!


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:44:32 PM PST US
    From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Surface Corrosion?
    Looks like filiform corrosion. I would talk to Van's and maybe replace the part. Dave Leikam 40496 Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Kearney To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 8:08 PM Subject: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion? Hi This evening I was starting to prep my tail cone parts. When removing the vinyl wrap, one piece had some unusual surface discoloration. I thought it might be some adhesive and tried removing it with lacquer thinner but to no avail. It looks like a mineral deposit of some sort. Is this surface corrosion and if so how to handle this. I have attached a couple of pictures. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage PS: I hope everyone had a fun Christmas and is looking forward to a great New Year!


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:18:17 PM PST US
    From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Surface Corrosion?
    HI Dave Thanks for the info. It does look a bit odd and therefore troublesome. I will do as you suggest and speak to Vans and see what they have to say. Cheers Les Kearney RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 9:43 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion? Looks like filiform corrosion. I would talk to Van's and maybe replace the part. Dave Leikam 40496 Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 8:08 PM Subject: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion? Hi This evening I was starting to prep my tail cone parts. When removing the vinyl wrap, one piece had some unusual surface discoloration. I thought it might be some adhesive and tried removing it with lacquer thinner but to no avail. It looks like a mineral deposit of some sort. Is this surface corrosion and if so how to handle this. I have attached a couple of pictures. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage PS: I hope everyone had a fun Christmas and is looking forward to a great New Year!


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:30:01 PM PST US
    From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Surface Corrosion?
    Hi Dave Based on your description, I googled Filiform Corrosion and found this link. It has a very interesting time lapse movie showing Filiform Corrosion forming on aluminum as well as an explanation as to why it forms. Cheers Les -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 9:43 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion? Looks like filiform corrosion. I would talk to Van's and maybe replace the part. Dave Leikam 40496 Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 8:08 PM Subject: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion? Hi This evening I was starting to prep my tail cone parts. When removing the vinyl wrap, one piece had some unusual surface discoloration. I thought it might be some adhesive and tried removing it with lacquer thinner but to no avail. It looks like a mineral deposit of some sort. Is this surface corrosion and if so how to handle this. I have attached a couple of pictures. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage PS: I hope everyone had a fun Christmas and is looking forward to a great New Year!




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