Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:06 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (nick)
2. 02:28 AM - Re: Surface Corrosion? (RV_10)
3. 04:12 AM - Re: Surface Corrosion? ()
4. 04:26 AM - Re: Surface Corrosion? (Bob Leffler)
5. 05:43 AM - Some more newbie questions (Bob Leffler)
6. 06:20 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
7. 06:24 AM - Re: Some more newbie questions (Rick)
8. 06:58 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (Jesse Saint)
9. 07:40 AM - Re: Some more newbie questions - spray gun (Larry Rosen)
10. 07:48 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size - air lines (Larry Rosen)
11. 07:59 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (John W. Cox)
12. 08:02 AM - Re: Surface Corrosion? (LIKE2LOOP@AOL.COM)
13. 08:06 AM - Re: My Favorite Christmas present! (Deems Davis)
14. 08:09 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size - air lines (Tim Olson)
15. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (Pascal)
16. 08:18 AM - Re: My Favorite Christmas present! (Ralph E. Capen)
17. 08:23 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (Jesse Saint)
18. 08:29 AM - Re: Surface Corrosion? (Les Kearney)
19. 08:32 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (Kelly McMullen)
20. 10:15 AM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (Jerry Grimmonpre)
21. 10:42 AM - Copper vs PVC air lines (JOHN STARN)
22. 10:45 AM - Chelton and D2A (David McNeill)
23. 10:59 AM - Fw: Tornadoes Damage Florida - AOL News (Fixitauto@aol.com)
24. 11:19 AM - OT Riteangle 3b customers (EMAproducts@aol.com)
25. 11:20 AM - Re: Fw: Tornadoes Damage Florida - AOL News (Pascal)
26. 11:40 AM - In the Holiday Spirit, want to share with you. (John Gonzalez)
27. 11:47 AM - Re: Some more newbie questions (John Gonzalez)
28. 01:42 PM - When Pro Seal Goes Bad (Jeff Carpenter)
29. 02:29 PM - Re: Chelton and D2A (John W. Cox)
30. 02:34 PM - Re: When Pro Seal Goes Bad (John W. Cox)
31. 02:53 PM - Re: Surface Corrosion? (John W. Cox)
32. 03:41 PM - Re: Re: Work Table Size - air lines (linn Walters)
33. 03:59 PM - Re: Some more newbie questions (MauleDriver)
34. 04:32 PM - D2A (David McNeill)
35. 04:32 PM - Re: When Pro Seal Goes Bad (linn Walters)
36. 04:58 PM - Re: Copper vs PVC air lines (John W. Cox)
37. 05:55 PM - Re: When Pro Seal Goes Bad (Rick)
38. 06:14 PM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (Rick)
39. 06:24 PM - Alumi-Grip (Marcus Cooper)
40. 06:38 PM - Re: Copper vs PVC air lines (Pascal)
41. 06:48 PM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
42. 08:13 PM - Re: Copper vs PVC air lines (noel anderson)
43. 08:17 PM - Re: Some more newbie questions (John Gonzalez)
44. 08:21 PM - Re: Fw: Tornadoes Damage Florida - AOL News (Shawn Moon)
45. 08:23 PM - Re: Surface Corrosion? (Les Kearney)
46. 08:40 PM - Re: When Pro Seal Goes Bad (Tim Olson)
47. 08:44 PM - Re: Re: Work Table Size (JOHN STARN)
48. 09:16 PM - Looking for 24 or 28 AWG tefzel (ddddsp1@juno.com)
49. 09:32 PM - Re: Looking for 24 or 28 AWG tefzel (Jesse Saint)
50. 09:39 PM - Re: Re: Work Table Size & Air supply (Paul Grimstad)
51. 10:53 PM - Re: Some more newbie questions (John Gonzalez)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
Hi Pascal,
For information,
A company in the UK called John Guest make PVC tubing and fittings for
compressed air systems.
http://johnguest.co.uk/range_spec.asp?a=ARFIT link to the fittings
http://johnguest.co.uk/range_spec.asp?a=PATUB link to the tube
It also looks like there is a link to a US distributor.
Best regards
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: 27 December 2006 21:54
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
I used 1/2" copper pipe. I plumbed 3 stations. One near the compressor
and the other two on the far side of the garage.
Larry
#356
Pascal wrote:
>
> Hi Tim!
> Little question to make my mind need to work less..
> you wrote:
> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so it
> isn't in the way while you drill
> --
> Been thinking of doing this myself and wonder what size copper piping
> did you use?.. I gather it was 1/4 with 90degree elbows.. if you can
> fill give me, I can continue that engineering piece for the start in
> 2007.
> I am in the exact same situation you were in 2/3 years ago. 3 year old
> and building up funds to get started. Looking at mid year 2007 if all
> goes well between now and than at work, I'm anxious to start but in no
> rush.
>
> Merry Christmas and wishes for a great 2007.
>
> Pascal
>
> PS: Disneyland offer for a place for your family to stay stands for
> 2007 lest you forget the offer.
>
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 4:41 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>
>
>>
>> Yes, you can blame me. I took those plans and did some calculations to
>> efficiently allow them to be built either to 24" or 32". In my case,
>> I'm glad I had 32", but it really is just a personal preference. I had
>> no problem laying a wing on it, and since I didn't solid-mount my
>> C-Frame dimpler, I found the width to be a great help. In addition, you
>> end up getting lots and lots of supplies on the table sometimes, and
>> having the extra width can be a good thing. 32" was not at all too
>> wide to work comfortably on both sides of RV-10 parts.
>>
>> That said, if you're space limited, or prefer skinny tables, then 24"
>> might be just the ticket. It's just personal preference.
>>
>> Some people liked theirs moveable with rollers. I preferred mine to
>> be super solid heavy and unyielding. I really is no big deal either
>> way, and often could be dependent on the rest of your shop. If I had
>> unlimited space, I'd have had a couple more of the ones Like I have,
>> and scattered them around a bit. One thing for sure, when you get
>> yourself a good sturdy set of tables, you'll find building to go
>> smoother. Also, it was handy having a top that you didn't mind drilling
>> into, or painting.
>>
>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
>> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
>> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so
>> it isn't in the way while you drill, and really beats tripping over
>> a 25' hose on the ground.
>>
>> So yep, I confused the issue by giving 2 options for the standard
>> EAA Plans. Sucks to have options, doesn't it.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> orchidman wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> owl40188(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>>>> I have used two 8ft by 2 ft tables. Built similarly to those in
>>>> the EAA site. They worked great. A 32 inch table should work
>>>> great also but I wouldn't go any wider than that. I used a 2ft
>>>> depth because I slit a 4x8 plywood sheet in the middle for the two
>>>> table tops. A more important item might be table height. You
>>>> don't want to have to bend down for a long period of time while
>>>> working on your kit.
>>>>
>>>> Niko 40188-
>>>
>>> Thanks, It looks like my problems are because of Tim! Can I blame
>>> him :D
>>>
>>> The plans he has on his site show both 24" and 32" and this is what I
>>> was questioning. Which is best for the 10. Eveyone that has replied
>>> so far has referenced the plans from what looks like the same group
>>> of people but only has the 24" size. No reference to 32" wide. It is
>>> looking like 24" is winning. This is what I needed to know so I can
>>> build them this weekend.
>>>
>>> -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not
>>> archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81590#81590
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
--
Message 2
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| Subject: | Surface Corrosion? |
Hi Les,
Yes, that looks very much like filiform corrosion. You will find that
alodine won't take to that area.
A relatively painless but time consuming solution I found for the same
problem is to remove the filiform corrosion with a small grinder with a felt
pad with some aluminum polishing paste. This preps the surface for alodining
then painting as you prefer. Other methods of removing the filiform
corrosion I tried left the surface too marked for my liking.
Cheers,
John
(wings)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Thursday, 28 December 2006 1:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion?
Hi
This evening I was starting to prep my tail cone parts. When removing the
vinyl wrap, one piece had some unusual surface discoloration. I thought it
might be some adhesive and tried removing it with lacquer thinner but to no
avail. It looks like a mineral deposit of some sort. Is this surface
corrosion and if so how to handle this.
I have attached a couple of pictures.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
PS: I hope everyone had a fun Christmas and is looking forward to a great
New Year!
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Surface Corrosion? |
Hi Les,I did recive one of my wings bottom skins in the same conditions,it is a
no brainer,I ask them if my dollars have some kind of surface corrosion,don't
even ask what to do ,ask only for a replacement,that simple,
Cheers ,Hugo #40456
>
> From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
> Date: 2006/12/27 Wed PM 09:08:03 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion?
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> This evening I was starting to prep my tail cone parts. When removing the
> vinyl wrap, one piece had some unusual surface discoloration. I thought it
> might be some adhesive and tried removing it with lacquer thinner but to no
> avail. It looks like a mineral deposit of some sort. Is this surface
> corrosion and if so how to handle this.
>
>
>
> I have attached a couple of pictures.
>
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
>
>
>
> PS: I hope everyone had a fun Christmas and is looking forward to a great
> New Year!
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Surface Corrosion? |
Les's issue with corrosion reminded me of a topic I wanted to solicit
opinions from the list. I attended a RV builder's class a couple weeks
ago at Grov-Air in Indy. Troy Grover, the gentleman conducting the class
stated that he has seen several RVs that have significant corrosion along
the lines were the vinyl wrap was removed by a soldering iron. His
conclusion was that dirt was collecting in the edge of the vinyl and
absorbing moisture. He stated that he's seen this in the last couple kits
that have come through his shop.
Since my empennage kit is in route at the moment, I am thinking about the
approach I want to take. My current desire is to leave the vinyl on as long
as possible to minimize scratching.
Does anyone know of anyone that has experienced corrosion along the lines of
the vinyl that were cut with a soldering iron?
It seems like the only way to prevent the issue that Les has discovered is
to remove the vinyl when you inventory, but I would think would have
disastrous effect of the quality of the surface.
I am very interested in hearing on how Van's handles Les's issue. I am
optimistic that they will replace the part for Les.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 9:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion?
Hi
This evening I was starting to prep my tail cone parts. When removing the
vinyl wrap, one piece had some unusual surface discoloration. I thought it
might be some adhesive and tried removing it with lacquer thinner but to no
avail. It looks like a mineral deposit of some sort. Is this surface
corrosion and if so how to handle this.
I have attached a couple of pictures.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
PS: I hope everyone had a fun Christmas and is looking forward to a great
New Year!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Some more newbie questions |
For those that went the alumiprep, alodine, akzo prime (no primer war
discussion), what quantity of these should be initially ordered? Is the
shelf life long enough to order quantities for the entire aircraft?
Is there a better source for these other than Aircraft Spruce?
I understand that alodine can also be obtained in a powder form. Is it cost
effective for us in the quantities needed for the RV10? If so, where is a
good source to obtain the powder form?
What quantities and sizes of "oops" rivets should I order?
I'm also looking for recommendations on a spray gun to use for priming. I
don't have any experience with HVLP guns, so I am looking for what has
worked well for others.
Thanks,
Bob
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and other metal pipe
for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about any hardware store
is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see from your compressor.
Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the time at a fraction of the cost.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
Hi Pascal,
I used 1/2" galvanized pipe, but I think 1/2" copper would be
better unless you can put lots of moisture separation in front
of it. Just make sure the copper is good for about 150psi
and that would be great. It really is nice having a couple
of runs down the ceiling so you can work on either side of the airplane.
I put one down each side of the workbench, but should have put one down
the other side of the garage too. It's pretty cheap to do. The pipe
isn't a big cost. Just the coupler fittings.
It'll be great to hear how things go as you get started with it all.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Pascal wrote:
>
> Hi Tim!
> Little question to make my mind need to work less..
> you wrote:
> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so it
> isn't in the way while you drill
> --
> Been thinking of doing this myself and wonder what size copper piping
> did you use?.. I gather it was 1/4 with 90degree elbows.. if you can
> fill give me, I can continue that engineering piece for the start in 2007.
> I am in the exact same situation you were in 2/3 years ago. 3 year old
> and building up funds to get started. Looking at mid year 2007 if all
> goes well between now and than at work, I'm anxious to start but in no
> rush.
>
> Merry Christmas and wishes for a great 2007.
>
> Pascal
>
> PS: Disneyland offer for a place for your family to stay stands for 2007
> lest you forget the offer.
>
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 4:41 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>
>
>>
>> Yes, you can blame me. I took those plans and did some calculations to
>> efficiently allow them to be built either to 24" or 32". In my case,
>> I'm glad I had 32", but it really is just a personal preference. I had
>> no problem laying a wing on it, and since I didn't solid-mount my
>> C-Frame dimpler, I found the width to be a great help. In addition, you
>> end up getting lots and lots of supplies on the table sometimes, and
>> having the extra width can be a good thing. 32" was not at all too
>> wide to work comfortably on both sides of RV-10 parts.
>>
>> That said, if you're space limited, or prefer skinny tables, then 24"
>> might be just the ticket. It's just personal preference.
>>
>> Some people liked theirs moveable with rollers. I preferred mine to
>> be super solid heavy and unyielding. I really is no big deal either
>> way, and often could be dependent on the rest of your shop. If I had
>> unlimited space, I'd have had a couple more of the ones Like I have,
>> and scattered them around a bit. One thing for sure, when you get
>> yourself a good sturdy set of tables, you'll find building to go
>> smoother. Also, it was handy having a top that you didn't mind drilling
>> into, or painting.
>>
>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
>> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
>> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so
>> it isn't in the way while you drill, and really beats tripping over
>> a 25' hose on the ground.
>>
>> So yep, I confused the issue by giving 2 options for the standard
>> EAA Plans. Sucks to have options, doesn't it.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> orchidman wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> owl40188(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>>>> I have used two 8ft by 2 ft tables. Built similarly to those in
>>>> the EAA site. They worked great. A 32 inch table should work
>>>> great also but I wouldn't go any wider than that. I used a 2ft
>>>> depth because I slit a 4x8 plywood sheet in the middle for the two
>>>> table tops. A more important item might be table height. You
>>>> don't want to have to bend down for a long period of time while
>>>> working on your kit.
>>>>
>>>> Niko 40188-
>>>
>>> Thanks, It looks like my problems are because of Tim! Can I blame
>>> him :D
>>>
>>> The plans he has on his site show both 24" and 32" and this is what I
>>> was questioning. Which is best for the 10. Eveyone that has replied
>>> so far has referenced the plans from what looks like the same group
>>> of people but only has the 24" size. No reference to 32" wide. It is
>>> looking like 24" is winning. This is what I needed to know so I can
>>> build them this weekend.
>>>
>>> -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not
>>> archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81590#81590
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Some more newbie questions |
Bob,
Shoot me your address offline and I'll send you all the opps rivets you'll ever
need. I ordered about .15# of each size and although I never needed to use one
personally ;) Some of my helpers dinged a rivet or two. I got plenty of them.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
Amen!
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 9:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and other
metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about any
hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see from
your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the time at
a fraction of the cost.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
Hi Pascal,
I used 1/2" galvanized pipe, but I think 1/2" copper would be
better unless you can put lots of moisture separation in front
of it. Just make sure the copper is good for about 150psi
and that would be great. It really is nice having a couple
of runs down the ceiling so you can work on either side of the airplane.
I put one down each side of the workbench, but should have put one down
the other side of the garage too. It's pretty cheap to do. The pipe
isn't a big cost. Just the coupler fittings.
It'll be great to hear how things go as you get started with it all.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Pascal wrote:
>
> Hi Tim!
> Little question to make my mind need to work less..
> you wrote:
> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so it
> isn't in the way while you drill
> --
> Been thinking of doing this myself and wonder what size copper piping
> did you use?.. I gather it was 1/4 with 90degree elbows.. if you can
> fill give me, I can continue that engineering piece for the start in
2007.
> I am in the exact same situation you were in 2/3 years ago. 3 year old
> and building up funds to get started. Looking at mid year 2007 if all
> goes well between now and than at work, I'm anxious to start but in no
> rush.
>
> Merry Christmas and wishes for a great 2007.
>
> Pascal
>
> PS: Disneyland offer for a place for your family to stay stands for 2007
> lest you forget the offer.
>
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 4:41 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>
>
>>
>> Yes, you can blame me. I took those plans and did some calculations to
>> efficiently allow them to be built either to 24" or 32". In my case,
>> I'm glad I had 32", but it really is just a personal preference. I had
>> no problem laying a wing on it, and since I didn't solid-mount my
>> C-Frame dimpler, I found the width to be a great help. In addition, you
>> end up getting lots and lots of supplies on the table sometimes, and
>> having the extra width can be a good thing. 32" was not at all too
>> wide to work comfortably on both sides of RV-10 parts.
>>
>> That said, if you're space limited, or prefer skinny tables, then 24"
>> might be just the ticket. It's just personal preference.
>>
>> Some people liked theirs moveable with rollers. I preferred mine to
>> be super solid heavy and unyielding. I really is no big deal either
>> way, and often could be dependent on the rest of your shop. If I had
>> unlimited space, I'd have had a couple more of the ones Like I have,
>> and scattered them around a bit. One thing for sure, when you get
>> yourself a good sturdy set of tables, you'll find building to go
>> smoother. Also, it was handy having a top that you didn't mind drilling
>> into, or painting.
>>
>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
>> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
>> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so
>> it isn't in the way while you drill, and really beats tripping over
>> a 25' hose on the ground.
>>
>> So yep, I confused the issue by giving 2 options for the standard
>> EAA Plans. Sucks to have options, doesn't it.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> orchidman wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> owl40188(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>>>> I have used two 8ft by 2 ft tables. Built similarly to those in
>>>> the EAA site. They worked great. A 32 inch table should work
>>>> great also but I wouldn't go any wider than that. I used a 2ft
>>>> depth because I slit a 4x8 plywood sheet in the middle for the two
>>>> table tops. A more important item might be table height. You
>>>> don't want to have to bend down for a long period of time while
>>>> working on your kit.
>>>>
>>>> Niko 40188-
>>>
>>> Thanks, It looks like my problems are because of Tim! Can I blame
>>> him :D
>>>
>>> The plans he has on his site show both 24" and 32" and this is what I
>>> was questioning. Which is best for the 10. Eveyone that has replied
>>> so far has referenced the plans from what looks like the same group
>>> of people but only has the 24" size. No reference to 32" wide. It is
>>> looking like 24" is winning. This is what I needed to know so I can
>>> build them this weekend.
>>>
>>> -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not
>>> archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81590#81590
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
--
12:31 PM
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Some more newbie questions - spray gun |
Use an inexpensive HPLV detail gun for priming. A regular sized gun is
just to big and non HPLV gives too much overspray. Harbor freight has a
spray gun on sale for $40 and it does a fine job.
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46719>.
Also here is a link to a guide on setting up the gun
<http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/HVLPspraygun.html>
The 2 gallon kit should be enough for the entire project. 2 year shelf
life.
No shelf life on the alumiprep, 1 gal will be more than enough.
Alodine does have a 1 year shelf life in liquid form.
Watch out for the hazmat shipping charges.
If you go the solid alodine route let me know if you want to split the
order.
Larry Rosen
#356
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> For those that went the alumiprep, alodine, akzo prime (no primer war
> discussion), what quantity of these should be initially ordered? Is the
> shelf life long enough to order quantities for the entire aircraft?
>
> Is there a better source for these other than Aircraft Spruce?
>
> I understand that alodine can also be obtained in a powder form. Is it cost
> effective for us in the quantities needed for the RV10? If so, where is a
> good source to obtain the powder form?
>
> What quantities and sizes of "oops" rivets should I order?
>
> I'm also looking for recommendations on a spray gun to use for priming. I
> don't have any experience with HVLP guns, so I am looking for what has
> worked well for others.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size - air lines |
PVC will hold the air pressure. The down side of using plastic pipe is
that it is not impact resistant. If the system is under pressure and
the PVC air line is broken by something falling on it or hitting it
could shatter. Now what is the likely hood if this happening? Would
you get injured? PVC is easier to install and much cheaper. I went
with copper.
Larry Rosen
#356
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and other metal
pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about any hardware store
is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see from your compressor.
Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the time at a fraction of the
cost.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 7:10 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>
>
> Hi Pascal,
>
> I used 1/2" galvanized pipe, but I think 1/2" copper would be
> better unless you can put lots of moisture separation in front
> of it. Just make sure the copper is good for about 150psi
> and that would be great. It really is nice having a couple
> of runs down the ceiling so you can work on either side of the airplane.
> I put one down each side of the workbench, but should have put one down
> the other side of the garage too. It's pretty cheap to do. The pipe
> isn't a big cost. Just the coupler fittings.
>
> It'll be great to hear how things go as you get started with it all.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Pascal wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Tim!
>> Little question to make my mind need to work less..
>> you wrote:
>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
>> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
>> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so it
>> isn't in the way while you drill
>> --
>> Been thinking of doing this myself and wonder what size copper piping
>> did you use?.. I gather it was 1/4 with 90degree elbows.. if you can
>> fill give me, I can continue that engineering piece for the start in 2007.
>> I am in the exact same situation you were in 2/3 years ago. 3 year old
>> and building up funds to get started. Looking at mid year 2007 if all
>> goes well between now and than at work, I'm anxious to start but in no
>> rush.
>>
>> Merry Christmas and wishes for a great 2007.
>>
>> Pascal
>>
>> PS: Disneyland offer for a place for your family to stay stands for 2007
>> lest you forget the offer.
>>
>> Pascal
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 4:41 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Yes, you can blame me. I took those plans and did some calculations to
>>> efficiently allow them to be built either to 24" or 32". In my case,
>>> I'm glad I had 32", but it really is just a personal preference. I had
>>> no problem laying a wing on it, and since I didn't solid-mount my
>>> C-Frame dimpler, I found the width to be a great help. In addition, you
>>> end up getting lots and lots of supplies on the table sometimes, and
>>> having the extra width can be a good thing. 32" was not at all too
>>> wide to work comfortably on both sides of RV-10 parts.
>>>
>>> That said, if you're space limited, or prefer skinny tables, then 24"
>>> might be just the ticket. It's just personal preference.
>>>
>>> Some people liked theirs moveable with rollers. I preferred mine to
>>> be super solid heavy and unyielding. I really is no big deal either
>>> way, and often could be dependent on the rest of your shop. If I had
>>> unlimited space, I'd have had a couple more of the ones Like I have,
>>> and scattered them around a bit. One thing for sure, when you get
>>> yourself a good sturdy set of tables, you'll find building to go
>>> smoother. Also, it was handy having a top that you didn't mind drilling
>>> into, or painting.
>>>
>>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
>>> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
>>> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so
>>> it isn't in the way while you drill, and really beats tripping over
>>> a 25' hose on the ground.
>>>
>>> So yep, I confused the issue by giving 2 options for the standard
>>> EAA Plans. Sucks to have options, doesn't it.
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> orchidman wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> owl40188(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I have used two 8ft by 2 ft tables. Built similarly to those in
>>>>> the EAA site. They worked great. A 32 inch table should work
>>>>> great also but I wouldn't go any wider than that. I used a 2ft
>>>>> depth because I slit a 4x8 plywood sheet in the middle for the two
>>>>> table tops. A more important item might be table height. You
>>>>> don't want to have to bend down for a long period of time while
>>>>> working on your kit.
>>>>>
>>>>> Niko 40188-
>>>>>
>>>> Thanks, It looks like my problems are because of Tim! Can I blame
>>>> him :D
>>>>
>>>> The plans he has on his site show both 24" and 32" and this is what I
>>>> was questioning. Which is best for the 10. Eveyone that has replied
>>>> so far has referenced the plans from what looks like the same group
>>>> of people but only has the 24" size. No reference to 32" wide. It is
>>>> looking like 24" is winning. This is what I needed to know so I can
>>>> build them this weekend.
>>>>
>>>> -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not
>>>> archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81590#81590
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
Michael - in one word....Safety. The PVC can get brittle and burst with
pressure or age. I had PVC for twenty years. The ole line then sprang
a leak. I just ignored it. Shortly thereafter (a few months) the line
splintered and burst into pieces. It was cheap, fast, easy as well as
stupid of me. $1,000 for a commercial compressor then I cut a few
corners in not upgrading the distribution system.
Copper or galvanized steel pipe are favorites. Black pipe for natural
gas is a no-no. Remember that the heat process of compressing air
squeezes moisture out. It is in the tank, in the trap or in the lines.
Pneumatic tools will talk back if the moisture is allowed to reach them.
Remember at least two traps, one at the tank, one at the low point well
down the line and when I paint, the final one before the gun with a
desiccant capture trap to read the results.
And yes... Jesse said "AMEN" which I am sure was so as to beckon someone
of higher authority so your PVC doesn't send a shard into your backside
(wallet) while bending over riveting.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and other
metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about any
hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see from
your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the
time at a fraction of the cost.
Michael
-
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Surface Corrosion? |
In a message dated 12/28/2006 7:27:54 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rvmail@thelefflers.com writes:
His conclusion was that dirt was collecting in the edge of the vinyl and
absorbing moisture. He stated that he=99s seen this in the last cou
ple kits
that have come through his shop.
Find out more about the conditions of the parts that he described, as i
n
where were they stored? How long (years)? Humidity, laying on bare
concrete, etc.... i would be suspicous of moisture getting under the plast
ic, from
repeated wiping with a wet cloth to clean the part or laying on bare ceme
nt
floor or against a block wall. Maybe these cases involved a heavy hand
that scratched the pure aluminum layer from the part as the plastic was bei
ng
melted with the soldering iron? That would allow some damage to occur!
If
too small of a soldering iron is used, there may be a temptation to press
harder to cut the plastic. Use a big iron and move it only fast enough to
cut
passively and it wont mar the metal. Think of it like the tracking of a
diamond needle on a plastic record. There is always a reason, and i don't
buy
the "dirt" concept. The dirt would be carbon residue from plastic melting,
sitting on top of pure aluminum. Something else happened....
I am in FLA, very high humidity, with plastic film cut back with
soldering iron. No signs of any change yet, and i am going very slow on my
build.
The film is very protective of the large outer surfaces. I did strip all of
plastic away on everything internal of course, so you are only talking abou
t
the outer skins....
Steve
do not archive
Stephen Blank #40499
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: My Favorite Christmas present! |
Ralph, the sticker on the back lists: www.sayingsandsuch.com ph # 623
780 7657
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> I gotta get me one....where?
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size - air lines |
That was my thought too. It's much easier to crack a fitting or smack a
pipe and have it crack. Having been in the SCUBA business for many
years, I got to see some results of various things being pressurized
and blowing up. I figured metal of some sort would be a little
safer in that regards. If you support the PVC well, and don't
crank on the T's too much, or tug on the hoses too much, you may
be fine. It would be ideal from many other standpoints too. It
certainly is easier to work with. Just make sure it's
supported well and treated more gently. Flying shards of pipe
can do awful things to skin and eyes.
I went with pipe because of cost vs. copper. But in the end
I kick myself for not just running copper, due to the rust
potential of iron.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> PVC will hold the air pressure. The down side of using plastic pipe is
> that it is not impact resistant. If the system is under pressure and
> the PVC air line is broken by something falling on it or hitting it
> could shatter. Now what is the likely hood if this happening? Would
> you get injured? PVC is easier to install and much cheaper. I went
> with copper.
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>>
>> I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and
>> other metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just
>> about any hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will
>> ever see from your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done
>> in half the time at a fraction of the cost.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 7:10 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>>
>>
>> Hi Pascal,
>>
>> I used 1/2" galvanized pipe, but I think 1/2" copper would be
>> better unless you can put lots of moisture separation in front
>> of it. Just make sure the copper is good for about 150psi
>> and that would be great. It really is nice having a couple
>> of runs down the ceiling so you can work on either side of the airplane.
>> I put one down each side of the workbench, but should have put one down
>> the other side of the garage too. It's pretty cheap to do. The pipe
>> isn't a big cost. Just the coupler fittings.
>>
>> It'll be great to hear how things go as you get started with it all.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Pascal wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Tim!
>>> Little question to make my mind need to work less..
>>> you wrote:
>>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe
>>> system with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air
>>> hoses. It's nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose
>>> hanging down so it isn't in the way while you drill
>>> --
>>> Been thinking of doing this myself and wonder what size copper piping
>>> did you use?.. I gather it was 1/4 with 90degree elbows.. if you can
>>> fill give me, I can continue that engineering piece for the start in
>>> 2007.
>>> I am in the exact same situation you were in 2/3 years ago. 3 year
>>> old and building up funds to get started. Looking at mid year 2007 if
>>> all goes well between now and than at work, I'm anxious to start but
>>> in no rush.
>>>
>>> Merry Christmas and wishes for a great 2007.
>>>
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>> PS: Disneyland offer for a place for your family to stay stands for
>>> 2007 lest you forget the offer.
>>>
>>> Pascal
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 4:41 PM
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yes, you can blame me. I took those plans and did some
>>>> calculations to
>>>> efficiently allow them to be built either to 24" or 32". In my case,
>>>> I'm glad I had 32", but it really is just a personal preference. I had
>>>> no problem laying a wing on it, and since I didn't solid-mount my
>>>> C-Frame dimpler, I found the width to be a great help. In addition,
>>>> you
>>>> end up getting lots and lots of supplies on the table sometimes, and
>>>> having the extra width can be a good thing. 32" was not at all too
>>>> wide to work comfortably on both sides of RV-10 parts.
>>>>
>>>> That said, if you're space limited, or prefer skinny tables, then 24"
>>>> might be just the ticket. It's just personal preference.
>>>>
>>>> Some people liked theirs moveable with rollers. I preferred mine to
>>>> be super solid heavy and unyielding. I really is no big deal either
>>>> way, and often could be dependent on the rest of your shop. If I had
>>>> unlimited space, I'd have had a couple more of the ones Like I have,
>>>> and scattered them around a bit. One thing for sure, when you get
>>>> yourself a good sturdy set of tables, you'll find building to go
>>>> smoother. Also, it was handy having a top that you didn't mind
>>>> drilling
>>>> into, or painting.
>>>>
>>>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
>>>> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
>>>> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so
>>>> it isn't in the way while you drill, and really beats tripping over
>>>> a 25' hose on the ground.
>>>>
>>>> So yep, I confused the issue by giving 2 options for the standard
>>>> EAA Plans. Sucks to have options, doesn't it.
>>>>
>>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>> do not archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> orchidman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> owl40188(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have used two 8ft by 2 ft tables. Built similarly to those in
>>>>>> the EAA site. They worked great. A 32 inch table should work
>>>>>> great also but I wouldn't go any wider than that. I used a 2ft
>>>>>> depth because I slit a 4x8 plywood sheet in the middle for the two
>>>>>> table tops. A more important item might be table height. You
>>>>>> don't want to have to bend down for a long period of time while
>>>>>> working on your kit.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Niko 40188-
>>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, It looks like my problems are because of Tim! Can I blame
>>>>> him :D
>>>>>
>>>>> The plans he has on his site show both 24" and 32" and this is what I
>>>>> was questioning. Which is best for the 10. Eveyone that has replied
>>>>> so far has referenced the plans from what looks like the same group
>>>>> of people but only has the 24" size. No reference to 32" wide. It is
>>>>> looking like 24" is winning. This is what I needed to know so I can
>>>>> build them this weekend.
>>>>>
>>>>> -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not
>>>>> archive
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81590#81590
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
from http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm
Never use PVC or ABS. (PVC is easy to work with, but will not allow the hot
air to cool quickly enough to condense the water in the compressed air.
Also, in case of a compressor regulator failure, if the PSI inside the line
were to go above the rated safety capacity, the plastic pipe won't just
split, but will actually explode, producing razor-sharp projectiles which
are sure to damage property and person.) Consider using Schedule 40 black
iron, galvanized, copper, stainless steel, or anodized aluminum. Size the
pipe for maximum CFM required. This will equal full load production plus
future expansion plans
Mind you when I looked at this site and saw all the up and downs I thought
this setup was nuts- hence my initial question about what Tim was using. I
wany simple and something that will work and stay dry.
I think for the short distance involved a simple dryer and oiler will be
fine..
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and other
> metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about any
> hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see from
> your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the time
> at a fraction of the cost.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 7:10 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>
>
> Hi Pascal,
>
> I used 1/2" galvanized pipe, but I think 1/2" copper would be
> better unless you can put lots of moisture separation in front
> of it. Just make sure the copper is good for about 150psi
> and that would be great. It really is nice having a couple
> of runs down the ceiling so you can work on either side of the airplane.
> I put one down each side of the workbench, but should have put one down
> the other side of the garage too. It's pretty cheap to do. The pipe
> isn't a big cost. Just the coupler fittings.
>
> It'll be great to hear how things go as you get started with it all.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Pascal wrote:
>>
>> Hi Tim!
>> Little question to make my mind need to work less..
>> you wrote:
>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
>> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
>> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so it
>> isn't in the way while you drill
>> --
>> Been thinking of doing this myself and wonder what size copper piping
>> did you use?.. I gather it was 1/4 with 90degree elbows.. if you can
>> fill give me, I can continue that engineering piece for the start in
>> 2007.
>> I am in the exact same situation you were in 2/3 years ago. 3 year old
>> and building up funds to get started. Looking at mid year 2007 if all
>> goes well between now and than at work, I'm anxious to start but in no
>> rush.
>>
>> Merry Christmas and wishes for a great 2007.
>>
>> Pascal
>>
>> PS: Disneyland offer for a place for your family to stay stands for 2007
>> lest you forget the offer.
>>
>> Pascal
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 4:41 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Yes, you can blame me. I took those plans and did some calculations to
>>> efficiently allow them to be built either to 24" or 32". In my case,
>>> I'm glad I had 32", but it really is just a personal preference. I had
>>> no problem laying a wing on it, and since I didn't solid-mount my
>>> C-Frame dimpler, I found the width to be a great help. In addition, you
>>> end up getting lots and lots of supplies on the table sometimes, and
>>> having the extra width can be a good thing. 32" was not at all too
>>> wide to work comfortably on both sides of RV-10 parts.
>>>
>>> That said, if you're space limited, or prefer skinny tables, then 24"
>>> might be just the ticket. It's just personal preference.
>>>
>>> Some people liked theirs moveable with rollers. I preferred mine to
>>> be super solid heavy and unyielding. I really is no big deal either
>>> way, and often could be dependent on the rest of your shop. If I had
>>> unlimited space, I'd have had a couple more of the ones Like I have,
>>> and scattered them around a bit. One thing for sure, when you get
>>> yourself a good sturdy set of tables, you'll find building to go
>>> smoother. Also, it was handy having a top that you didn't mind drilling
>>> into, or painting.
>>>
>>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
>>> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
>>> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so
>>> it isn't in the way while you drill, and really beats tripping over
>>> a 25' hose on the ground.
>>>
>>> So yep, I confused the issue by giving 2 options for the standard
>>> EAA Plans. Sucks to have options, doesn't it.
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> orchidman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> owl40188(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>>>>> I have used two 8ft by 2 ft tables. Built similarly to those in
>>>>> the EAA site. They worked great. A 32 inch table should work
>>>>> great also but I wouldn't go any wider than that. I used a 2ft
>>>>> depth because I slit a 4x8 plywood sheet in the middle for the two
>>>>> table tops. A more important item might be table height. You
>>>>> don't want to have to bend down for a long period of time while
>>>>> working on your kit.
>>>>>
>>>>> Niko 40188-
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, It looks like my problems are because of Tim! Can I blame
>>>> him :D
>>>>
>>>> The plans he has on his site show both 24" and 32" and this is what I
>>>> was questioning. Which is best for the 10. Eveyone that has replied
>>>> so far has referenced the plans from what looks like the same group
>>>> of people but only has the 24" size. No reference to 32" wide. It is
>>>> looking like 24" is winning. This is what I needed to know so I can
>>>> build them this weekend.
>>>>
>>>> -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not
>>>> archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81590#81590
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: My Favorite Christmas present! |
Cool - thanks!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>Sent: Dec 28, 2006 11:05 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Favorite Christmas present!
>
>
>Ralph, the sticker on the back lists: www.sayingsandsuch.com ph # 623
>780 7657
>
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>> I gotta get me one....where?
>>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
Yes, and please send a high-res picture of said shard when it hits.
Actually, I would recommend something like PEX, probably. I don't
specifically know how much pressure it will handle, but it isn't brittle.
We use some type of plastic pipe in Ecuador. It's fairly plyable and
thick-walled and is very easy to work with and cheap. If it is going
overhead, it would be a little harder to drop something on it. Beyond that,
do what makes you feel good.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 10:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
Michael - in one word....Safety. The PVC can get brittle and burst with
pressure or age. I had PVC for twenty years. The ole line then sprang
a leak. I just ignored it. Shortly thereafter (a few months) the line
splintered and burst into pieces. It was cheap, fast, easy as well as
stupid of me. $1,000 for a commercial compressor then I cut a few
corners in not upgrading the distribution system.
Copper or galvanized steel pipe are favorites. Black pipe for natural
gas is a no-no. Remember that the heat process of compressing air
squeezes moisture out. It is in the tank, in the trap or in the lines.
Pneumatic tools will talk back if the moisture is allowed to reach them.
Remember at least two traps, one at the tank, one at the low point well
down the line and when I paint, the final one before the gun with a
desiccant capture trap to read the results.
And yes... Jesse said "AMEN" which I am sure was so as to beckon someone
of higher authority so your PVC doesn't send a shard into your backside
(wallet) while bending over riveting.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and other
metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about any
hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see from
your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the
time at a fraction of the cost.
Michael
-
--
12:31 PM
Message 18
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| Subject: | Surface Corrosion? |
Ooops
I forgot to attach the link.
It is:
http://aluminium.matter.org.uk/content/html/eng/default.asp?catid=180
<http://aluminium.matter.org.uk/content/html/eng/default.asp?catid=180&
pagei
d=2144416691> &pageid=2144416691
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 11:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion?
Hi Dave
Based on your description, I googled Filiform Corrosion and found this
link.
It has a very interesting time lapse movie showing Filiform Corrosion
forming on aluminum as well as an explanation as to why it forms.
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion?
Looks like filiform corrosion. I would talk to Van's and maybe replace
the
part.
Dave Leikam
40496
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 8:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion?
Hi
This evening I was starting to prep my tail cone parts. When removing
the
vinyl wrap, one piece had some unusual surface discoloration. I thought
it
might be some adhesive and tried removing it with lacquer thinner but to
no
avail. It looks like a mineral deposit of some sort. Is this surface
corrosion and if so how to handle this.
I have attached a couple of pictures.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
PS: I hope everyone had a fun Christmas and is looking forward to a
great
New Year!
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
I guess the counter to that would be....am I going to use this
distribution line for 20 yrs? I don't think I would keep one for more
than 10 yrs, probably less...but part of that is a function of my age.
Everyone will have a different answer.
On 12/28/06, John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
>
> Michael - in one word....Safety. The PVC can get brittle and burst with
> pressure or age. I had PVC for twenty years. The ole line then sprang
> a leak. I just ignored it. Shortly thereafter (a few months) the line
> splintered and burst into pieces. It was cheap, fast, easy as well as
> stupid of me. $1,000 for a commercial compressor then I cut a few
> corners in not upgrading the distribution system.
>
> Copper or galvanized steel pipe are favorites. Black pipe for natural
> gas is a no-no. Remember that the heat process of compressing air
> squeezes moisture out. It is in the tank, in the trap or in the lines.
> Pneumatic tools will talk back if the moisture is allowed to reach them.
> Remember at least two traps, one at the tank, one at the low point well
> down the line and when I paint, the final one before the gun with a
> desiccant capture trap to read the results.
>
> And yes... Jesse said "AMEN" which I am sure was so as to beckon someone
> of higher authority so your PVC doesn't send a shard into your backside
> (wallet) while bending over riveting.
>
> John
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:20 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and other
> metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about any
> hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see from
> your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the
> time at a fraction of the cost.
>
> Michael
>
> -
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
do not archive
My shop is plumbed with 1/2 inch schedule 40 pvc from Menard's. I
pressurize to 165psi and it has held up for several years. The pipe runs
are at the ceilings. I take off every 5' with a T fitting. The T points
to the ceiling and another short pipe goes up a short distance then turns
180 down to where I can reach it when plugging into the quick disconnect.
The 180 pipe helps with drier air by leaving the heavy moisture inside the
main line. The 180 is made with a heat gun as are most other changes of
direction. Seems to work pretty good.
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV4 flying
RV8 wires
Message 21
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| Subject: | Copper vs PVC air lines |
Being an ole plumbing contractor (25 years plus) I have installed thousands
of feet of copper air lines (up to 4") and hundreds of feet of Sch. 40 & 80
PVC pipe. PVC sch 40 pipe is a lot better than thin wall sprinkler PVC but
it will still shatter & explode IF a fracture occurs. It will whip about
under pressure and throw shrapnel shards until the air is turned off.
How do you fracture PVC ?, Good question. Pull too hard on the connected air
line, accidentally hit it with a blunt object, allow it to be exposed to
sunlight, "flip" the tangled air hose. Copper will bend, bent, split, crimp
BUT it does not fly apart. Sch 80 ??, about the same cost as copper. Type
"L" (blue printing on the pipe) copper is not cheap but will last forever.
Type "M" (red printing) is OK ? ? BUT I use it ONLY for non pressure lines &
wind chimes. Fittings ??, you will only find "L" fittings at Lowes & Home
Depot....Why ??, 'cause they don't make "M" fittings. "M" is thinner & drawn
harder, brittle, "L" just works better.
Want to try a test....Take a 20' piece of sch 40 PVC (put on a jacket,
gloves, eye protection (full motorcycle helmet) grab one end of the PVC &
slam/snap onto your driveway. Then go back to Lowes & buy the copper right
after you pick up the shattered remain of the PVC. KABONG Do Not Archive
(It's in there several times from me over the years. 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:56 AM
> I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and other
> metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about any
> hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see from
> your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the time
> at
> a fraction of the cost.
>
> Michael
Message 22
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Contacts for Chelton who are handling the D2A debacle are as follows.
bbunevich@cheltonflightsystems.com <bbunevich@cheltonflightsystems.com>
is at 208-340-9945. That is a Boise ID number but he is located in OH so
time differences apply.
1. There are no backorders at CFS to be shipped to D2A.
2. CFS has hired a manager for the experimental department which will
deal through dealers to individuals.
3. CFS is in the process of getting inventory.
4. Pricing for the system is planned to remain the same for the present.
5. Pinpoint GADAHRS to remain experimental.
6. CFS software will continue to support use of legacy sensors i.e. XBOW
425EX but hardware maintenance for those sensors is the manufacturers
responsibility.
7. Chelton will supply via their website; software upgrades and DB
updates.
THE FOLLOWING INFO DID NOT _REPEAT NOT _COME FROM CHELTON.
but was gleaned from other individuals in other conversations.
1. XBOW is supplying their AHRS for the AFS EFIS; if they make it
reliable for AFS, why not D2A?
2. There may be grounds for legal action against XBOW for those who
have, in hand, a 425EX.
3. About 80 Chelton systems were sold by D2A.
4. Service for the IDUs will be available as both CFS and the IDU
supplier to D2A are still in business.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 23
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| Subject: | Fwd: Tornadoes Damage Florida - AOL News |
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ZHHZNsrFklWCXygkyFi207RYNcm9ZzeGhpSolZn/2Q=
------_=_NextPart_001_01C72A92.CD976189--
Message 24
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| Subject: | OT Riteangle 3b customers |
12/2006
Gentlemen,
Currently I have less than 30% of our customers current e-mail addresses.
I am attempting to update our mailing lists to see if they have any questions
re their RiteAngle IIIb Angle of Attack systems. Occasionally I get a call
from someone who purchased a system several years ago and still do not have
system installed or set-up due to various reasons.
Should you have any questions, comments, photos of system installed in your
plane, endorsements or whatever re: the RiteAngle IIIb system please send it
to this address _riteangle3@aol.com_ (mailto:riteangle3@aol.com)
Thankfully, since the IIIb system has gone into production, we have had no changes
in
the electronics, however we now have a professional written setup manual.
Sincerely
Elbie
EM Aviation, LLC
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Tornadoes Damage Florida - AOL News |
Imagine ERAU-
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/061228_embryriddle.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Fixitauto@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 10:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd: Tornadoes Damage Florida - AOL News
Message 26
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| Subject: | In the Holiday Spirit, want to share with you. |
Hey gang,
Since I will sooner or later be part of your community, that is the power
one, I want to share with you my latest addition to my web page. Last
Summer I visited Telluride, Colorado and brought my sailplane. I've
included a video of that flight on my web site, but you need high speed
internet and quicktime. I did the filming so you miss my glider, but you can
see my clean machine by viewing the stills on the video aswell as from the
sunset picture above the video link.
Have a look at what its like to do it without an engine.
Next month I will be forwarding something in print which I got included in
an online newsletter which you can all benefit from once you finish your
planes and if you fly it to Telluride. You better have the big engine or a
smaller one with a turbo for that airport. Density altitude at the airport
can be up to 12K on summer days.
Go to: wwwjohngonzalezdds.com
other interest section
click on the picture which says, "Telluride Video Short"
Enjoy and Happy New Year.
JOhn Gonzalez, N112ST Lak17a, Also known as "2 Sierra Tango" in my other
life.
Building but stalled on electrical in fuse. #409
Message 27
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| Subject: | Some more newbie questions |
What I find the most interesting about the use of primer is that I see on
several web pages and on some of the parts where I actually primed, I did it
to a solid color. When I got my quick build fuse and wings, the primer they
shot looks more like overspray and not a solid, filled in color.
Consider weight when you use it.
JohnG
Do Not Archive
>From: "Bob Leffler" <rvmail@thelefflers.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Some more newbie questions
>Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 08:42:01 -0500
>
>
>
>For those that went the alumiprep, alodine, akzo prime (no primer war
>discussion), what quantity of these should be initially ordered? Is the
>shelf life long enough to order quantities for the entire aircraft?
>
>Is there a better source for these other than Aircraft Spruce?
>
>I understand that alodine can also be obtained in a powder form. Is it
>cost
>effective for us in the quantities needed for the RV10? If so, where is a
>good source to obtain the powder form?
>
>What quantities and sizes of "oops" rivets should I order?
>
>I'm also looking for recommendations on a spray gun to use for priming. I
>don't have any experience with HVLP guns, so I am looking for what has
>worked well for others.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | When Pro Seal Goes Bad |
I've got a Pro Seal Kit which officially expires this month... though
I've had it in the freezer for all but a few hours since I bought
it. What does bad Pro Seal look like? How does it behave?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Message 29
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|
David, were you able to confirm that the Crossbow 500 is without issue
for those builders awaiting receipt and willing to take that plunge
towards a Chelton solution?
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 10:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Chelton and D2A
Contacts for Chelton who are handling the D2A debacle are as follows.
bbunevich@cheltonflightsystems.com <bbunevich@cheltonflightsystems.com>
is at 208-340-9945. That is a Boise ID number but he is located in OH so
time differences apply.
1. There are no backorders at CFS to be shipped to D2A.
2. CFS has hired a manager for the experimental department which will
deal through dealers to individuals.
3. CFS is in the process of getting inventory.
4. Pricing for the system is planned to remain the same for the present.
5. Pinpoint GADAHRS to remain experimental.
6. CFS software will continue to support use of legacy sensors i.e. XBOW
425EX but hardware maintenance for those sensors is the manufacturers
responsibility.
7. Chelton will supply via their website; software upgrades and DB
updates.
THE FOLLOWING INFO DID NOT _REPEAT NOT _COME FROM CHELTON.
but was gleaned from other individuals in other conversations.
1. XBOW is supplying their AHRS for the AFS EFIS; if they make it
reliable for AFS, why not D2A?
2. There may be grounds for legal action against XBOW for those who
have, in hand, a 425EX.
3. About 80 Chelton systems were sold by D2A.
4. Service for the IDUs will be available as both CFS and the IDU
supplier to D2A are still in business.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 30
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| Subject: | When Pro Seal Goes Bad |
It loses its adhesion characteristics. Wouldn't it be nice if it
changed color radically when mixed. Oh yeh, it does... I just meant a
truly different and more noticeable color. It remains paintable.
John Cox
40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 1:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: When Pro Seal Goes Bad
I've got a Pro Seal Kit which officially expires this month... though
I've had it in the freezer for all but a few hours since I bought
it. What does bad Pro Seal look like? How does it behave?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Message 31
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| Subject: | Surface Corrosion? |
Les, that's an Excellent read of all eleven (11) web pages. This is what
I play with every night while other builder's sleep. It brings clarity
to the issues of alodine, anodize and proper surface preparation
including final topcoat application without a "declaration of war".
The final corrective solution often involves Eddy Current, Ultra-sound
or X-ray (all expensive diagnostics) and drives home the value of
prevention rather than intervention due to poor preparation during
initial construction.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 8:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion?
Ooops
I forgot to attach the link.
It is:
http://aluminium.matter.org.uk/content/html/eng/default.asp?catid=180&p
a
geid=2144416691
Cheers
Les
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size - air lines |
Larry, being cautious is a good trait. However, you have to whack PVC
pipe really hard to bust it ...... unless it's been sun baked and
brittle. Unsupported drops (short piece from the roof to bench level,
let's say) will vibrate and fail due to fatigue.
Linn
do not archive
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> PVC will hold the air pressure. The down side of using plastic pipe
> is that it is not impact resistant. If the system is under pressure
> and the PVC air line is broken by something falling on it or hitting
> it could shatter. Now what is the likely hood if this happening?
> Would you get injured? PVC is easier to install and much cheaper. I
> went with copper.
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>>
>> I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and
>> other metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just
>> about any hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will
>> ever see from your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be
>> done in half the time at a fraction of the cost.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 7:10 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>>
>>
>> Hi Pascal,
>>
>> I used 1/2" galvanized pipe, but I think 1/2" copper would be
>> better unless you can put lots of moisture separation in front
>> of it. Just make sure the copper is good for about 150psi
>> and that would be great. It really is nice having a couple
>> of runs down the ceiling so you can work on either side of the airplane.
>> I put one down each side of the workbench, but should have put one down
>> the other side of the garage too. It's pretty cheap to do. The pipe
>> isn't a big cost. Just the coupler fittings.
>>
>> It'll be great to hear how things go as you get started with it all.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Pascal wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Tim!
>>> Little question to make my mind need to work less..
>>> you wrote:
>>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe
>>> system with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air
>>> hoses. It's nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose
>>> hanging down so it isn't in the way while you drill
>>> --
>>> Been thinking of doing this myself and wonder what size copper
>>> piping did you use?.. I gather it was 1/4 with 90degree elbows.. if
>>> you can fill give me, I can continue that engineering piece for the
>>> start in 2007.
>>> I am in the exact same situation you were in 2/3 years ago. 3 year
>>> old and building up funds to get started. Looking at mid year 2007
>>> if all goes well between now and than at work, I'm anxious to start
>>> but in no rush.
>>>
>>> Merry Christmas and wishes for a great 2007.
>>>
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>> PS: Disneyland offer for a place for your family to stay stands for
>>> 2007 lest you forget the offer.
>>>
>>> Pascal
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 4:41 PM
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yes, you can blame me. I took those plans and did some
>>>> calculations to
>>>> efficiently allow them to be built either to 24" or 32". In my case,
>>>> I'm glad I had 32", but it really is just a personal preference. I
>>>> had
>>>> no problem laying a wing on it, and since I didn't solid-mount my
>>>> C-Frame dimpler, I found the width to be a great help. In
>>>> addition, you
>>>> end up getting lots and lots of supplies on the table sometimes, and
>>>> having the extra width can be a good thing. 32" was not at all too
>>>> wide to work comfortably on both sides of RV-10 parts.
>>>>
>>>> That said, if you're space limited, or prefer skinny tables, then 24"
>>>> might be just the ticket. It's just personal preference.
>>>>
>>>> Some people liked theirs moveable with rollers. I preferred mine to
>>>> be super solid heavy and unyielding. I really is no big deal either
>>>> way, and often could be dependent on the rest of your shop. If I had
>>>> unlimited space, I'd have had a couple more of the ones Like I have,
>>>> and scattered them around a bit. One thing for sure, when you get
>>>> yourself a good sturdy set of tables, you'll find building to go
>>>> smoother. Also, it was handy having a top that you didn't mind
>>>> drilling
>>>> into, or painting.
>>>>
>>>> One other thing I found infinitely helpful was an overhead pipe system
>>>> with air outlets every few feet, and a few 5 to 10' air hoses. It's
>>>> nice sometimes to just have a little piece of hose hanging down so
>>>> it isn't in the way while you drill, and really beats tripping over
>>>> a 25' hose on the ground.
>>>>
>>>> So yep, I confused the issue by giving 2 options for the standard
>>>> EAA Plans. Sucks to have options, doesn't it.
>>>>
>>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>> do not archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> orchidman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> owl40188(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have used two 8ft by 2 ft tables. Built similarly to those in
>>>>>> the EAA site. They worked great. A 32 inch table should work
>>>>>> great also but I wouldn't go any wider than that. I used a 2ft
>>>>>> depth because I slit a 4x8 plywood sheet in the middle for the two
>>>>>> table tops. A more important item might be table height. You
>>>>>> don't want to have to bend down for a long period of time while
>>>>>> working on your kit.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Niko 40188-
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, It looks like my problems are because of Tim! Can I blame
>>>>> him :D
>>>>>
>>>>> The plans he has on his site show both 24" and 32" and this is what I
>>>>> was questioning. Which is best for the 10. Eveyone that has replied
>>>>> so far has referenced the plans from what looks like the same group
>>>>> of people but only has the 24" size. No reference to 32" wide. It is
>>>>> looking like 24" is winning. This is what I needed to know so I can
>>>>> build them this weekend.
>>>>>
>>>>> -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not
>>>>> archive
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81590#81590
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Some more newbie questions |
John, I forget what you used to prime but I'm using the same product
(Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash P60) as Vans uses on the QBs. Vans
says that the only difference is the gold tint on QB versus the green
tint on the product that is distributed in the US.
I just spent some time with my EAA Tech Counselor and he inspected
both my primed parts and the QB parts. He had no experience with this
product but observed that it appeared to have been applied by foam brush
on the QB and had more than adequate coverage even though it was
transparent/translucent and would look like overspray from a different
product. He immediately noted that some of my parts did not have
adequate coverage and we concluded I was applying it too lightly (you
could see a silvery color from the aluminum shining through). I had
been trying to keep it light and had lightened up the setup on my spray
gun after my first batch. Just sharing this FWIW.
I would note that the SW product would have to be applied very heavily
in multiple coats in order to be a solid color. While the 2 part epoxy
used at the Alexander Tech Center appeared solid even with relatively
light coats. My conclusion is that it would be very difficult to get a
solid color with the SW product used on the QB and I'm sure that it
would be very heavy. OTOH, it appears that some of the 2 part epoxies
will result in a solid color coat even when applied lightly and
correctly - and if applied too heavily too.
But I don't know what I'm talking about here. Just sharing.
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> What I find the most interesting about the use of primer is that I see
> on several web pages and on some of the parts where I actually primed,
> I did it to a solid color. When I got my quick build fuse and wings,
> the primer they shot looks more like overspray and not a solid, filled
> in color.
>
> Consider weight when you use it.
>
> JohnG
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 34
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check this
http://www.xbow.com/Support/Support_pdf_files/Service_Letter_NAV425-06-02
.pdf
http://www.xbow.com/General_info/Info_pdf_files/AHRS425_Upgrade_Program.p
df
http://www.xbow.com/General_info/Info_pdf_files/D2A_Press_Release.pdf
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: When Pro Seal Goes Bad |
I've used Pro-Seal that was years old ..... and it didn't seem to
change. I was stored in a regular refrigerator ..... not in the freezer.
Linn
do not archive
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I've got a Pro Seal Kit which officially expires this month... though
> I've had it in the freezer for all but a few hours since I bought
> it. What does bad Pro Seal look like? How does it behave?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Copper vs PVC air lines |
Anyone cutting financial plumbing corners want some of my ole PVC
shards? System worked just fine until it failed. I am now
retro-fitting with approved materials. I know, some knucklehead will
say the PVC of 2006 is new and improved over Schedule 40 PVC of 1983.
Think Safety, do it Right, do it Once, save the time for Flying.
John Cox
#40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOHN STARN
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 10:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Copper vs PVC air lines
Being an ole plumbing contractor (25 years plus) I have installed
thousands
of feet of copper air lines (up to 4") and hundreds of feet of Sch. 40 &
80
PVC pipe. PVC sch 40 pipe is a lot better than thin wall sprinkler PVC
but
it will still shatter & explode IF a fracture occurs. It will whip about
under pressure and throw shrapnel shards until the air is turned off.
How do you fracture PVC ?, Good question. Pull too hard on the connected
air
line, accidentally hit it with a blunt object, allow it to be exposed to
sunlight, "flip" the tangled air hose. Copper will bend, bent, split,
crimp
BUT it does not fly apart. Sch 80 ??, about the same cost as copper.
Type
"L" (blue printing on the pipe) copper is not cheap but will last
forever.
Type "M" (red printing) is OK ? ? BUT I use it ONLY for non pressure
lines &
wind chimes. Fittings ??, you will only find "L" fittings at Lowes &
Home
Depot....Why ??, 'cause they don't make "M" fittings. "M" is thinner &
drawn
harder, brittle, "L" just works better.
Want to try a test....Take a 20' piece of sch 40 PVC (put on a jacket,
gloves, eye protection (full motorcycle helmet) grab one end of the PVC
&
slam/snap onto your driveway. Then go back to Lowes & buy the copper
right
after you pick up the shattered remain of the PVC. KABONG Do Not
Archive
(It's in there several times from me over the years. 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:56 AM
> I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and
other
> metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about
any
> hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see
from
> your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the
time
> at
> a fraction of the cost.
>
> Michael
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: When Pro Seal Goes Bad |
Watch out!!!!
Expired ProSeal actually comes alive!!! Jumping from the tube or can and attacking
any living entity, human, dog cat etc... nearby, the last incident inspired
the movie "The Blob" and again 20 years later with "The Blob 2" Please don't
subject us to "The Blob 3" Bury that stuff at least three feet down!!!
Or go ahead and use it, try to be in a fairly warm environment and give it a little
longer time to cure and might not stick as well or "adhere" in other terms.
Hit it with the heat gun for a second after you through.....works wonders to
help it stick and cure...don't melt it away just warm it up.
Back to cocktail hour!!! Hickup!!
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
Me too.....good for three years so far...now we are talking about it again...three
years after we talked about it before....now we have a word for it...I.E.D.!!!!
SHARDS!! SHRAPNEL!!! Death from above!!! Jesse is praying and John is spreading
the word!!!
Stuff is rated at 600 PSI....I never go above 90 PSI (why would you??)...that's
a 5 (X) times safety factor...need to go check engineering book...Ah..ummm....right
here, design a safety factor of 5 times the normal operating condition....so
unless your Ab-E-normal....PVC, properly supported and protected from UV
damage, should work for your build, if your doing it up for a lifetime in your
shop or hangar....go copper....or better yet...stainless steel.
Hump?? What hump??
heheheheeee....."A nation that does not learn from it's history....
Cocktail hour still going....Double hick!!
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 39
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I think I have found a shop in central Georgia to paint my RV-10. They
recommend using Alumi-Grip by US paint. Anyone have any pro's or cons with
this finish? From the Google searches so far it seems pretty good.
Also, does anyone have any experience with "Aircraft Paint and Interiors of
Georgia"?
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Copper vs PVC air lines |
Sorry I asked the question, but also glad I did.
I've decided I'll run a nylon air hose to the ceiling and make due. Less
chance I'll need a heat gun, a motorcycle helmet nor any concern for PVC
shrapnel, and it's just so much easier to run it and remove it if I ever
need to move it somewhere. We are only talking a two car garage, of which I
am renting half the space from my wife, If I ever decide to just use the
hose off the ground I think my odds are safer to trip over 15 feet of hose
and knock my head then the other more dangerous piping options.
Seriously thou, I do appreciate the feedback and thank everyone for the
thoughts. I'll (really) decide when the time comes what I'll do, even PVC
might work as I have no intention of using it in the garage for more than
this project and that, I hope, will not take 20 plus years.
Thanks!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 2:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Copper vs PVC air lines
>
> Anyone cutting financial plumbing corners want some of my ole PVC
> shards? System worked just fine until it failed. I am now
> retro-fitting with approved materials. I know, some knucklehead will
> say the PVC of 2006 is new and improved over Schedule 40 PVC of 1983.
>
> Think Safety, do it Right, do it Once, save the time for Flying.
>
> John Cox
> #40600
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOHN STARN
> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 10:41 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Copper vs PVC air lines
>
>
> Being an ole plumbing contractor (25 years plus) I have installed
> thousands
> of feet of copper air lines (up to 4") and hundreds of feet of Sch. 40 &
> 80
> PVC pipe. PVC sch 40 pipe is a lot better than thin wall sprinkler PVC
> but
> it will still shatter & explode IF a fracture occurs. It will whip about
>
> under pressure and throw shrapnel shards until the air is turned off.
> How do you fracture PVC ?, Good question. Pull too hard on the connected
> air
> line, accidentally hit it with a blunt object, allow it to be exposed to
>
> sunlight, "flip" the tangled air hose. Copper will bend, bent, split,
> crimp
> BUT it does not fly apart. Sch 80 ??, about the same cost as copper.
> Type
> "L" (blue printing on the pipe) copper is not cheap but will last
> forever.
> Type "M" (red printing) is OK ? ? BUT I use it ONLY for non pressure
> lines &
> wind chimes. Fittings ??, you will only find "L" fittings at Lowes &
> Home
> Depot....Why ??, 'cause they don't make "M" fittings. "M" is thinner &
> drawn
> harder, brittle, "L" just works better.
> Want to try a test....Take a 20' piece of sch 40 PVC (put on a jacket,
> gloves, eye protection (full motorcycle helmet) grab one end of the PVC
> &
> slam/snap onto your driveway. Then go back to Lowes & buy the copper
> right
> after you pick up the shattered remain of the PVC. KABONG Do Not
> Archive
> (It's in there several times from me over the years. 8*)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:56 AM
>
>> I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and
> other
>> metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about
> any
>> hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see
> from
>> your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the
> time
>> at
>> a fraction of the cost.
>>
>> Michael
>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
I wanted to go with nanotubes but the pressure goes waaaay up and the volume waaaay
down at that level. I figured that would be the only way to be safe though.
Now where's that tequila. Heh
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
Me too.....good for three years so far...now we are talking about it again...three
years after we talked about it before....now we have a word for it...I.E.D.!!!!
SHARDS!! SHRAPNEL!!! Death from above!!! Jesse is praying and John is spreading
the word!!!
Stuff is rated at 600 PSI....I never go above 90 PSI (why would you??)...that's
a 5 (X) times safety factor...need to go check engineering book...Ah..ummm....right
here, design a safety factor of 5 times the normal operating condition....so
unless your Ab-E-normal....PVC, properly supported and protected from UV
damage, should work for your build, if your doing it up for a lifetime in your
shop or hangar....go copper....or better yet...stainless steel.
Hump?? What hump??
heheheheeee....."A nation that does not learn from it's history....
Cocktail hour still going....Double hick!!
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Copper vs PVC air lines |
John. How right you are. Me, I like old fashioned steel gas tube!!! Not
that much differance in price........Put the tube on the ceiling, hang the
air hose(or coil) down, coil will spring up out of the way of your work
surface!!!!!! Use Aro fittings or simular (quick change) I don't sell
them.................Just my 2cents......
Happy New Year to every body....... Regards Noel
----- Original Message -----
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 11:26 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Copper vs PVC air lines
>
> Anyone cutting financial plumbing corners want some of my ole PVC
> shards? System worked just fine until it failed. I am now
> retro-fitting with approved materials. I know, some knucklehead will
> say the PVC of 2006 is new and improved over Schedule 40 PVC of 1983.
>
> Think Safety, do it Right, do it Once, save the time for Flying.
>
> John Cox
> #40600
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOHN STARN
> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 10:41 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Copper vs PVC air lines
>
>
> Being an ole plumbing contractor (25 years plus) I have installed
> thousands
> of feet of copper air lines (up to 4") and hundreds of feet of Sch. 40 &
> 80
> PVC pipe. PVC sch 40 pipe is a lot better than thin wall sprinkler PVC
> but
> it will still shatter & explode IF a fracture occurs. It will whip about
>
> under pressure and throw shrapnel shards until the air is turned off.
> How do you fracture PVC ?, Good question. Pull too hard on the connected
> air
> line, accidentally hit it with a blunt object, allow it to be exposed to
>
> sunlight, "flip" the tangled air hose. Copper will bend, bent, split,
> crimp
> BUT it does not fly apart. Sch 80 ??, about the same cost as copper.
> Type
> "L" (blue printing on the pipe) copper is not cheap but will last
> forever.
> Type "M" (red printing) is OK ? ? BUT I use it ONLY for non pressure
> lines &
> wind chimes. Fittings ??, you will only find "L" fittings at Lowes &
> Home
> Depot....Why ??, 'cause they don't make "M" fittings. "M" is thinner &
> drawn
> harder, brittle, "L" just works better.
> Want to try a test....Take a 20' piece of sch 40 PVC (put on a jacket,
> gloves, eye protection (full motorcycle helmet) grab one end of the PVC
> &
> slam/snap onto your driveway. Then go back to Lowes & buy the copper
> right
> after you pick up the shattered remain of the PVC. KABONG Do Not
> Archive
> (It's in there several times from me over the years. 8*)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:56 AM
>
>> I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and
> other
>> metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about
> any
>> hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see
> from
>> your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the
> time
>> at
>> a fraction of the cost.
>>
>> Michael
>
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Some more newbie questions |
>From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Some more newbie questions
>Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 18:57:29 -0500
>
>
>John, I forget what you used to prime but I'm using the same product
>(Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash P60) as Vans uses on the QBs. Vans says
>that the only difference is the gold tint on QB versus the green tint on
>the product that is distributed in the US.
>
>I just spent some time with my EAA Tech Counselor and he inspected both
>my primed parts and the QB parts. He had no experience with this product
>but observed that it appeared to have been applied by foam brush on the QB
>and had more than adequate coverage even though it was
>transparent/translucent and would look like overspray from a different
>product. He immediately noted that some of my parts did not have adequate
>coverage and we concluded I was applying it too lightly (you could see a
>silvery color from the aluminum shining through). I had been trying to
>keep it light and had lightened up the setup on my spray gun after my first
>batch. Just sharing this FWIW.
>
>I would note that the SW product would have to be applied very heavily in
>multiple coats in order to be a solid color. While the 2 part epoxy used
>at the Alexander Tech Center appeared solid even with relatively light
>coats. My conclusion is that it would be very difficult to get a solid
>color with the SW product used on the QB and I'm sure that it would be very
>heavy. OTOH, it appears that some of the 2 part epoxies will result in a
>solid color coat even when applied lightly and correctly - and if applied
>too heavily too.
>
>But I don't know what I'm talking about here. Just sharing.
>
>John Gonzalez wrote:
>>
>>What I find the most interesting about the use of primer is that I see on
>>several web pages and on some of the parts where I actually primed, I did
>>it to a solid color. When I got my quick build fuse and wings, the primer
>>they shot looks more like overspray and not a solid, filled in color.
>>
>>Consider weight when you use it.
>>
>>JohnG
>>Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Tornadoes Damage Florida - AOL News |
I got the below e-mail from the EAA on this as well. ERAU lost 50 aircraft
and are looking for some short term replacements. As an alum (Prescott AZ
campus) I can vouch that the maintenance on these airplanes is top notch a
nd they are well taken care of. I have personal experience with this type
of incident, although not as extreme. My freshman year ERAU purchased a do
zen or so new American Grumman Tigers. One week before the start of the fa
ll semester a thunderstorm came through and dropped quite a bit of hail on
the airplanes. The Cessnas fared pretty well but the Tigers did not do so
well. They were left with a lot of dimples on the tops of the wings. Most
of them were still safe to fly and actually got much higher climb rates af
ter that. Insurance kicked in and the aircraft were cycled one at a time b
ack to the factory to get the wings re-skinned. It did have a bit of an ef
fect on aircraft scheduling, but not as much as this will. If you have or
know of an
aircraft that might not get much use over the next few months please conta
ct them.=0A=0A-------------=0A=0AEmbry Riddle flight department devastated
by tornado=0A =0ASchool looking for replacement aircraft to lease=0A =0AWhi
le most EAA members were celebrating the Christmas holiday on Monday,=0Athe
staff at Embry Riddle Aeronautical University in Daytona Beach,=0AFla., wa
s dealing with the aftermath of a tornado that ripped through=0Athe campus
that day. More than 50 ERAU aircraft were destroyed or=0Adamaged by the to
rnado, while nine campus buildings were also hit. The=0Adamage caused univ
ersity officials to delay the start of classes for one=0Aweek following the
holiday recess, with the spring semester now starting=0Aon Jan. 16.=0A =0A
EAA immediately offered assistance to Embry Riddle in the aftermath of=0Ath
e storm, and the university has asked EAA for possible assistance from=0Ait
s members. The university is now looking to leaseback, or rent by the=0Afl
ight hour, several late-model Cessna 172s (180-horsepower G 1000 or=0Aconve
ntional equipped aircraft) to replace those lost in the Dec. 25=0Atornado.
The leases/or hourly rentals would last up to four months. The=0Aaircraft
will be maintained to Embry Riddle exacting maintenance=0Astandards and ret
urned to the owner/operator with either a fresh=0A100-hour or annual inspec
tion. =0A =0AIf you can assist, please send an e-mail to Frank Ayers, Chair
man of the=0AFlight Department (ayersf@erau.edu) or Jack Haun, Director of
=0AMaintenance (haunj@erau.edu) to discuss lease/rental terms. Please=0Apro
vide the N-number of the aircraft and a general description. =0A =0AFor mor
e information, visit www.eaa.org=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom
: "Fixitauto@aol.com" <Fixitauto@aol.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0AS
ent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 12:58:28 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Fwd: Tor
nadoes Damage Florida - AOL News=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A =0ATornadoes Damage H
undreds of Florida Homes - AOL News=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A <<Tornadoe
s Damage Hundreds of Florida Homes - AOL News.jpg>> =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________________________________________=0ADo You Yah
ttp://mail.yahoo.com
Message 45
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| Subject: | Surface Corrosion? |
Hi Again
I spoke to Ken at Van's who suggested I clean the filiform corrosion
using a
scotchbright pad. After some serious scouring, I got it off with the
pad.
That being said, I was most unhappy with the result as I was almost
certainly well into the substrate and removed the ALCLAD layer. As a
result
I am concerned that it may lead to greater problems in the future
especially
if my priming is compromised during assembly. Van's was quite happy to
send
out a replacement. As this is part of the forward tail cone bulkhead,
this
won't have too big an impact on my build schedule.
Cheers
Les
RV10 #40643 - Lost in the empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion?
Les, that's an Excellent read of all eleven (11) web pages. This is what
I
play with every night while other builder's sleep. It brings clarity to
the
issues of alodine, anodize and proper surface preparation including
final
topcoat application without a "declaration of war".
The final corrective solution often involves Eddy Current, Ultra-sound
or
X-ray (all expensive diagnostics) and drives home the value of
prevention
rather than intervention due to poor preparation during initial
construction.
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 8:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Surface Corrosion?
Ooops
I forgot to attach the link.
It is:
http://aluminium.matter.org.uk/content/html/eng/default.asp?catid=180
<http://aluminium.matter.org.uk/content/html/eng/default.asp?catid=180&
pagei
d=2144416691> &pageid=2144416691
Cheers
Les
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: When Pro Seal Goes Bad |
If it were me, and it's been kept in the freezer, I'd easily go
another 6-12 months on it. It will still cure, just maybe
not as quickly, as it gets a little older. Older than a year
though, and I wouldn't use it for anything fuel tank related.
Actually, as long as you don't use it for fuel tanks, I would
stretch the life out considerably, but just keep it in the
freezer. I still have a can in mine, and would use it to seal
things up as needed for quite a while...just not fuel tanks.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I've got a Pro Seal Kit which officially expires this month... though
> I've had it in the freezer for all but a few hours since I bought it.
> What does bad Pro Seal look like? How does it behave?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size |
NO...stainless would require cutting, fitting & threading to do the job
proper. Have you ever cut stainless steel pipe ? ? I have, when installing
it at the Submarine training school in San Diego. With the push on copper
joints all you need is to cut & fit. Why yes, I have seen PVC glue joints &
90's blow off at a lot less than 90PSI, several times in fact. Shards &
Shrapnel ? ? Yep seen that too, IF PSI rating is your only test for
consideration, ever wonder why they don't run natural gas in Sch 40 PVC.
Yep have seen that done too, job lasted more than 10 years until it came
unglued & burnt the house to the ground.....NO the insurance didn't pay off.
The pipe was "owner" installed & ILLEGAL. It's your nickel, ya take your
pick, pay the price & take your chances.
"Those who will not listen to the sage advise from those that have walked
the path before, will have to learn the hard way". Who said that ? ? I just
did, I do have an original thought every now & then.
Do Not Archive KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>
> Me too.....good for three years so far...now we are talking about it
> again...three years after we talked about it before....now we have a word
> for it...I.E.D.!!!! SHARDS!! SHRAPNEL!!! Death from above!!! Jesse is
> praying and John is spreading the word!!!
>
> Stuff is rated at 600 PSI....I never go above 90 PSI (why would
> you??)...that's a 5 (X) times safety factor...need to go check engineering
> book...Ah..ummm....right here, design a safety factor of 5 times the
> normal operating condition....so unless your Ab-E-normal....PVC, properly
> supported and protected from UV damage, should work for your build, if
> your doing it up for a lifetime in your shop or hangar....go copper....or
> better yet...stainless steel.
>
> Hump?? What hump??
>
>
> heheheheeee....."A nation that does not learn from it's history....
>
> Cocktail hour still going....Double hick!!
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
>
> do not archive
Message 48
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| Subject: | Looking for 24 or 28 AWG tefzel |
Where can I get some 24 AWG or 28 AWG tefzel wire. Need about 40 - 50 f
eet.
Thanks,
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________
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om/index.pd?c=uol5637
<html><P>Where can I get some 24 AWG or 28 AWG tefzel wire. N
eed about 40 - 50 feet. </P>
<P>Thanks,</P>
<P>DEAN</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
<a href="http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=197335&u=http://www.american
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Message 49
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| Subject: | Looking for 24 or 28 AWG tefzel |
Try www.steinair.com <http://www.steinair.com/> for the 24. I don't know
where you would find 28. That's pretty small stuff. Are you trying to save
weight by going 28? IMHO it would be a lot harder to work with than 24,
which is even a little small for my taste. I only use a little bit of 24 in
my wiring, usually going at least 22.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 12:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Looking for 24 or 28 AWG tefzel
Where can I get some 24 AWG or 28 AWG tefzel wire. Need about 40 - 50 feet.
Thanks,
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________
<http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=197335&u=http://www.americangreetings.com/inde
x.pd?c=uol5637> FREE for 30 Days! - Holiday eCards from
AmericanGreetings.com
Click HERE and start sending today!
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Work Table Size & Air supply |
I installed PVC in the new house finished just in time to start building the
10. When my heating contractor saw that I used PVC for air line, he said "no
way, shoulda' put in the orange stuff". So the PVC line is unused. I drilled
a hole in the concrete floor from the compressor location in the garage
above the shop and ran a 3/8" standard rubber air hose to the moisture trap
and splitter.
Best Wishes and Happy New Year to all the 10 builders.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450 fuselage
Portland, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>
> NO...stainless would require cutting, fitting & threading to do the job
> proper. Have you ever cut stainless steel pipe ? ? I have, when
> installing it at the Submarine training school in San Diego. With the push
> on copper joints all you need is to cut & fit. Why yes, I have seen PVC
> glue joints & 90's blow off at a lot less than 90PSI, several times in
> fact. Shards & Shrapnel ? ? Yep seen that too, IF PSI rating is your only
> test for consideration, ever wonder why they don't run natural gas in Sch
> 40 PVC. Yep have seen that done too, job lasted more than 10 years until
> it came unglued & burnt the house to the ground.....NO the insurance
> didn't pay off. The pipe was "owner" installed & ILLEGAL. It's your
> nickel, ya take your pick, pay the price & take your chances.
> "Those who will not listen to the sage advise from those that have walked
> the path before, will have to learn the hard way". Who said that ? ? I
> just did, I do have an original thought every now & then.
> Do Not Archive KABONG
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick" <ricksked@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:14 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Work Table Size
>
>
>>
>> Me too.....good for three years so far...now we are talking about it
>> again...three years after we talked about it before....now we have a word
>> for it...I.E.D.!!!! SHARDS!! SHRAPNEL!!! Death from above!!! Jesse is
>> praying and John is spreading the word!!!
>>
>> Stuff is rated at 600 PSI....I never go above 90 PSI (why would
>> you??)...that's a 5 (X) times safety factor...need to go check
>> engineering book...Ah..ummm....right here, design a safety factor of 5
>> times the normal operating condition....so unless your
>> Ab-E-normal....PVC, properly supported and protected from UV damage,
>> should work for your build, if your doing it up for a lifetime in your
>> shop or hangar....go copper....or better yet...stainless steel.
>>
>> Hump?? What hump??
>>
>>
>> heheheheeee....."A nation that does not learn from it's history....
>>
>> Cocktail hour still going....Double hick!!
>>
>> Rick S.
>> 40185
>>
>> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Some more newbie questions |
Opps sorry for that.
Your observations are exactly as I see it. I have not used the SW product,
but it does look completely different than the PPG metal primer I've used.
My QB has the greenish tint and it looks like you could see through it. The
PPG is solid in color as I have discussed. As you say it must be the
difference in the product appearence regardlesss of application thickness.
JOhn G.
>From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Some more newbie questions
>Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 18:57:29 -0500
>
>
>John, I forget what you used to prime but I'm using the same product
>(Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash P60) as Vans uses on the QBs. Vans says
>that the only difference is the gold tint on QB versus the green tint on
>the product that is distributed in the US.
>
>I just spent some time with my EAA Tech Counselor and he inspected both
>my primed parts and the QB parts. He had no experience with this product
>but observed that it appeared to have been applied by foam brush on the QB
>and had more than adequate coverage even though it was
>transparent/translucent and would look like overspray from a different
>product. He immediately noted that some of my parts did not have adequate
>coverage and we concluded I was applying it too lightly (you could see a
>silvery color from the aluminum shining through). I had been trying to
>keep it light and had lightened up the setup on my spray gun after my first
>batch. Just sharing this FWIW.
>
>I would note that the SW product would have to be applied very heavily in
>multiple coats in order to be a solid color. While the 2 part epoxy used
>at the Alexander Tech Center appeared solid even with relatively light
>coats. My conclusion is that it would be very difficult to get a solid
>color with the SW product used on the QB and I'm sure that it would be very
>heavy. OTOH, it appears that some of the 2 part epoxies will result in a
>solid color coat even when applied lightly and correctly - and if applied
>too heavily too.
>
>But I don't know what I'm talking about here. Just sharing.
>
>John Gonzalez wrote:
>>
>>What I find the most interesting about the use of primer is that I see on
>>several web pages and on some of the parts where I actually primed, I did
>>it to a solid color. When I got my quick build fuse and wings, the primer
>>they shot looks more like overspray and not a solid, filled in color.
>>
>>Consider weight when you use it.
>>
>>JohnG
>>Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>
>
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