Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:03 AM - Re: Cowling Mod Photos (David Maib)
2. 06:06 AM - Cowl Shim Thickness (Niko)
3. 07:53 AM - Re: Cowl Shim Thickness (Larry Rosen)
4. 08:04 AM - RV10 Builders in SLC ()
5. 08:11 AM - Re: RV10 Builders in SLC (Deems Davis)
6. 08:17 AM - Re: RV10 Builders in SLC (Larry Rosen)
7. 08:19 AM - Re: RV10 Builders in SLC ()
8. 09:25 AM - Re: Cowling Mod Photos (Bill DeRouchey)
9. 10:14 AM - Re: Cowl Shim Thickness (Niko)
10. 12:21 PM - Strobe wiring. (John Gonzalez)
11. 01:10 PM - Re: Cowling Mod Photos (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
12. 04:14 PM - Re: RV10 Builders in SLC (Darton Steve)
13. 04:37 PM - Re: Strobe wiring. (Jesse Saint)
14. 05:38 PM - Re: RV10 Builders in SLC (Rene)
15. 07:09 PM - Re: Strobe wiring. (John Gonzalez)
16. 07:38 PM - Floor rivets (Sean Blair)
17. 10:11 PM - Re: Fuel tank sender gasket (Dave & Brenda Emond)
18. 10:13 PM - Re: RV10 Builders in SLC (Scott Schmidt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Mod Photos |
Dave,
That is an awsome mod! I hate not being able to get a good look under the cowl
on prefilght. Any plans, tips, or "I would do this differently next time" kind
of thoughts would be appreciated.
Regards,
David Maib
#40559
Do not Archive
On Saturday, December 30, 2006, at 01:14AM, "Dave Saylor" <Dave@AirCraftersLLC.com>
wrote:
>We just finished a mod I really like. Here is our big oil door.
>
>It takes about 30 seconds to open, a lot longer than a single latch but I
>like being able to see so much on preflight.
>
>Still have to seal the hinge forward of the baffle...any suggestions?
>
>Dave Saylor
>AirCrafters LLC
>140 Aviation Way
>Watsonville, CA
>831-722-9141
>831-750-0284 CL
>www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Cowl Shim Thickness |
The cowl shim thikness specified in the instructions is 0.020in. The stock
in the trim bundle that I got is 0.025in. In fact I have nothing thats 0.
020 in thick. Can someone verify the correct cowl shim thickness?=0A=0ATha
nks=0A=0ANiko=0A40188
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl Shim Thickness |
Many have used the 0.025 shim successfully. There is no .020 shim
included in the kit.
Larry
#356
Niko wrote:
> The cowl shim thikness specified in the instructions is 0.020in. The
> stock in the trim bundle that I got is 0.025in. In fact I have
> nothing thats 0.020 in thick. Can someone verify the correct cowl
> shim thickness?
>
> Thanks
>
> Niko
> 40188
> *
>
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV10 Builders in SLC |
I'm passing through SLC today and wonder if there are any builders available today.
I can't remember the map address that shows the location of people accross
the country either. Can anyone help?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Builders in SLC |
Al, I believe there are several builders in the SLC area, Scott Schmidt,
Mike Howe, Jeff Dalton, and others I'm sure, here's the Frapper Map
link http://www.frappr.com/rv10snorthamerica
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Builders in SLC |
<http://www.frappr.com/rv10snorthamerica> for the RV10 google frappr.
ibspud@adelphia.net wrote:
>
> I'm passing through SLC today and wonder if there are any builders available
today. I can't remember the map address that shows the location of people accross
the country either. Can anyone help?
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Builders in SLC |
Thanks Deems. I'mabout to start my doors and looking for a project at about that
stage.
Albert
---- Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Al, I believe there are several builders in the SLC area, Scott Schmidt,
> Mike Howe, Jeff Dalton, and others I'm sure, here's the Frapper Map
> link http://www.frappr.com/rv10snorthamerica
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Mod Photos |
It took me a long time to fit the oil door properly - seems like it would not be
much more difficult to expose the aft quarter as you did. There are many oil
and fuel lines aft of the baffle that could be quickly inspected each morning.
Bill
billderou@yahoo.com
N939SB, flying
David Maib <dmaib@mac.com> wrote:
Dave,
That is an awsome mod! I hate not being able to get a good look under the cowl
on prefilght. Any plans, tips, or "I would do this differently next time" kind
of thoughts would be appreciated.
Regards,
David Maib
#40559
Do not Archive
On Saturday, December 30, 2006, at 01:14AM, "Dave Saylor" wrote:
>We just finished a mod I really like. Here is our big oil door.
>
>It takes about 30 seconds to open, a lot longer than a single latch but I
>like being able to see so much on preflight.
>
>Still have to seal the hinge forward of the baffle...any suggestions?
>
>Dave Saylor
>AirCrafters LLC
>140 Aviation Way
>Watsonville, CA
>831-722-9141
>831-750-0284 CL
>www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl Shim Thickness |
Thanks Larry=0A=0ADo not archive=0A=0ANiko=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message -
---=0AFrom: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.
com=0ASent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 10:53:58 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-Lis
<LarryRosen@comcast.net>=0A=0AMany have used the 0.025 shim successfully.
There is no .020 shim =0Aincluded in the kit.=0A=0ALarry=0A#356=0A=0ANiko
wrote:=0A> The cowl shim thikness specified in the instructions is 0.020in.
The =0A> stock in the trim bundle that I got is 0.025in. In fact I have
=0A> nothing thats 0.020 in thick. Can someone verify the correct cowl =0A
> shim thickness?=0A> =0A> Thanks=0A> =0A> Niko=0A> 40188=0A> *=0A>=0A>
=
Message 10
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To many this could sound like a stupid question.
I am trying to finish up most of my wiring before I permanently attach the
baggage floors.
What I was trying to do was to have all my strobe wire bundles, both the
right wing and the left wing bundles run down the same side of my fuselage.
I've chosen the left side for them to go back to the battery compartment.
Question: I realize the strobe wire bundle will be eminating out of each
wing root aft of the main spar and infront of the rear spar attatchment
connector. Can the strobe wire bundle go from this aft location forward to
infront of the main spar(is there a any room in the large diameter hole that
is in the main spar which eminates out of the wing root) or is this hole's
space taken up with the control mechanism for the ailerons? Yes we have
gone over the ideas of gasoline and electrical runs. I was going to keep all
connectors away from fumes and gasoline.
OR
Should I simply put a hole in the fuselage skin, (obviously inside the wing
root fairing area) aft of the main spar and infront of the rear spar
connector? Then run the right wing wire bundle up and then across beneath
the seats over to the left side and back to the battery compartment.
I guess I was trying to not drill any holes in the fuselage skin, but I bet
the two existing holes that Van's has in the fuselage infront of the main
spar will be filled completely with aileron pushrods and fuel lines going
out of the tanks and return lines going back to the tank.
Thanks ahead of time.
JOhn G.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Mod Photos |
In a message dated 12/30/06 2:07:36 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
Dave@AirCraftersLLC.com writes:
We just finished a mod I really like. Here is our big oil door.
Dave,
Excellent Modification! I fly a C-170 and the entire side (both sides)
pop open like that. It is very nice being able to see the entire engine at
the preflight. You will really like this mod.
Will you please post a short description of what materials and how many
layers you used to create the stiffeners and the type and part number of the
cam locks and how you install those as well? Thanks.
What did you leave original on the cowling? Did you do away with the
entire piano hinge? Thanks for sharing...i would rather copy a smart guy vs
going it solo!
Steve
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 / C-170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Builders in SLC |
I'm a "Salt Laker" so is Scott Schmidt and Mike Howe.
You can call me at 801-971-1009.
Steve Darton 40212
--- Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> wrote:
> <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> <http://www.frappr.com/rv10snorthamerica> for the
> RV10 google frappr.
>
> ibspud@adelphia.net wrote:
> <ibspud@adelphia.net>
> >
> > I'm passing through SLC today and wonder if there
> are any builders available today. I can't remember
> the map address that shows the location of people
> accross the country either. Can anyone help?
> > Albert Gardner
> > Yuma, AZ
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 13
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Unless I am mistaken, the skins have a pilot hole in them that you are
supposed to drill out for wiring runs aft of the spar. That is where we do
all of our wiring. Then I would recommend running the wire that crosses the
fuse in the area where the flap control rod runs, drilling a small hole in
each panel and putting a snap bushing in them. That is also a good way to
get the flap wires from the side to the flap motor while keeping them as far
from the bellcranks and controls as possible. Another place is to run them
across the fuse between the two center sections, which is a place where
there is nothing moving except the pushrods right in the center, but it is
easy to keep the wires away from that. The wires can be supported on the
spacers that go on the long AN3 bolts that hold the main gear supports to
both the front and the back center section.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 3:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Strobe wiring.
To many this could sound like a stupid question.
I am trying to finish up most of my wiring before I permanently attach the
baggage floors.
What I was trying to do was to have all my strobe wire bundles, both the
right wing and the left wing bundles run down the same side of my fuselage.
I've chosen the left side for them to go back to the battery compartment.
Question: I realize the strobe wire bundle will be eminating out of each
wing root aft of the main spar and infront of the rear spar attatchment
connector. Can the strobe wire bundle go from this aft location forward to
infront of the main spar(is there a any room in the large diameter hole that
is in the main spar which eminates out of the wing root) or is this hole's
space taken up with the control mechanism for the ailerons? Yes we have
gone over the ideas of gasoline and electrical runs. I was going to keep all
connectors away from fumes and gasoline.
OR
Should I simply put a hole in the fuselage skin, (obviously inside the wing
root fairing area) aft of the main spar and infront of the rear spar
connector? Then run the right wing wire bundle up and then across beneath
the seats over to the left side and back to the battery compartment.
I guess I was trying to not drill any holes in the fuselage skin, but I bet
the two existing holes that Van's has in the fuselage infront of the main
spar will be filled completely with aileron pushrods and fuel lines going
out of the tanks and return lines going back to the tank.
Thanks ahead of time.
JOhn G.
--
4:48 PM
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV10 Builders in SLC |
Sorry for the late response, just got back to the list. I am building up in
Ogden. I am somewhere in finish stage........
Phone number is below.
I have a hanger at KOGD.....
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ibspud@adelphia.net
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Builders in SLC
I'm passing through SLC today and wonder if there are any builders available
today. I can't remember the map address that shows the location of people
accross the country either. Can anyone help?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 15
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Thanks Jesse
I used the center section of the spar in the fuse to cross over. I didn't
see any pilot hole in the fuse side so I measures the bushing on the wing
root and transferred that to the fuse.
Sometimes I have to get over the idea that Van's doesn't always tell you
where to drill and sometimes they don't mark it out for you. Got to get
over the fear of cutting virgin metal.
Thanks for responding.
John
>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Strobe wiring.
>Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2006 19:37:10 -0500
>
>
>Unless I am mistaken, the skins have a pilot hole in them that you are
>supposed to drill out for wiring runs aft of the spar. That is where we do
>all of our wiring. Then I would recommend running the wire that crosses
>the
>fuse in the area where the flap control rod runs, drilling a small hole in
>each panel and putting a snap bushing in them. That is also a good way to
>get the flap wires from the side to the flap motor while keeping them as
>far
>from the bellcranks and controls as possible. Another place is to run them
>across the fuse between the two center sections, which is a place where
>there is nothing moving except the pushrods right in the center, but it is
>easy to keep the wires away from that. The wires can be supported on the
>spacers that go on the long AN3 bolts that hold the main gear supports to
>both the front and the back center section.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>Cell: 352-427-0285
>Fax: 815-377-3694
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 3:20 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Strobe wiring.
>
>
>To many this could sound like a stupid question.
>
>I am trying to finish up most of my wiring before I permanently attach the
>baggage floors.
>
>What I was trying to do was to have all my strobe wire bundles, both the
>right wing and the left wing bundles run down the same side of my fuselage.
>I've chosen the left side for them to go back to the battery compartment.
>
>Question: I realize the strobe wire bundle will be eminating out of each
>wing root aft of the main spar and infront of the rear spar attatchment
>connector. Can the strobe wire bundle go from this aft location forward to
>infront of the main spar(is there a any room in the large diameter hole
>that
>
>is in the main spar which eminates out of the wing root) or is this hole's
>space taken up with the control mechanism for the ailerons? Yes we have
>gone over the ideas of gasoline and electrical runs. I was going to keep
>all
>
>connectors away from fumes and gasoline.
>
>OR
>
>Should I simply put a hole in the fuselage skin, (obviously inside the wing
>root fairing area) aft of the main spar and infront of the rear spar
>connector? Then run the right wing wire bundle up and then across beneath
>the seats over to the left side and back to the battery compartment.
>
>I guess I was trying to not drill any holes in the fuselage skin, but I bet
>the two existing holes that Van's has in the fuselage infront of the main
>spar will be filled completely with aileron pushrods and fuel lines going
>out of the tanks and return lines going back to the tank.
>
>
>Thanks ahead of time.
>
>JOhn G.
>
>
>--
>4:48 PM
>
>
Message 16
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Is everyone using the 470 rivets on the side flanges of the back floor pans?
The front ones use pop rivets, why the solid ones for the back? Is there a
strength issue I'm not thinking about? Also, how do you get the most
forward rivets that are in between the front seat bracket and tunnel where
the floor pan angles up?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
Freezing in Colorado..too much snow.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank sender gasket |
I fitted my tank sender units to the tank using just the rubber gaskets, and
a little automotive sealer on the screws.
After filling the tanks with Avgas to check for leaks, within a week the
Avgas has caused the rubber gaskets to deform and bulge, causing a major
leak.
I am contemplating doing what many other builders before me recommended,
leave the gasket out and proseal the sender unit in place.
I want to share this experience with all those that might be thinking along
the same lines as I was.
Dave Emond
RV10 - #40159
Message 18
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| Subject: | RV10 Builders in SLC |
Sorry, I'm out of town or else you could drop by the hanger. I am
actually down in California with the RV-10 this weekend. Had an awesome
flight down. Today we went to Flabob for breakfast and then flew the
coast a little.
I will be back tommorrow so if you are in the area on Sunday afternoon
or Monday give me a call.
We are heading to French Valley airport tomorrow morning for breakfast
before flying home.
I hope everyone has a great last day of 2006!!!!!
I am at KBTF (Bountiful Skypark).
801-319-3094.
-Scott Schmidt
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Rene
Sent: Sat 12/30/2006 6:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 Builders in SLC
Sorry for the late response, just got back to the list. I am building
up in
Ogden. I am somewhere in finish stage........
Phone number is below.
I have a hanger at KOGD.....
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ibspud@adelphia.net
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Builders in SLC
I'm passing through SLC today and wonder if there are any builders
available
today. I can't remember the map address that shows the location of
people
accross the country either. Can anyone help?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
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