Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:41 AM - Re: Floor rivets (Richard Reynolds)
2. 04:32 AM - Re: Re: Some more newbie questions ()
3. 04:50 AM - Use of tank sealant (Michael D Chase)
4. 06:42 AM - Re: Use of tank sealant (Tim Olson)
5. 07:44 AM - Re: Use of tank sealant (Larry Rosen)
6. 08:27 AM - Re: Strobe wiring. (John Testement)
7. 10:26 AM - Re:Cowling Mod Photos (Dave Saylor)
8. 11:18 AM - Main Tires (SamMarlow)
9. 11:46 AM - Re: Main Tires (Jesse Saint)
10. 11:52 AM - Re: Main Tires (Carl Froehlich)
11. 12:23 PM - Re: Main Tires (Marcus Cooper)
12. 02:20 PM - Re: Main Tires (linn Walters)
13. 05:14 PM - Re: Floor rivets (Sean Blair)
14. 06:09 PM - Newbie question about scratches (Dick Gurley)
15. 06:44 PM - Re: Newbie question about scratches (linn Walters)
16. 06:45 PM - Re: Main Tires (Jesse Saint)
17. 07:01 PM - Re: Main Tires (linn Walters)
18. 07:04 PM - Re: Newbie question about scratches (jdalton77)
19. 07:20 PM - Re: Main Tires (Mark Ritter)
20. 07:52 PM - Re: Newbie question about scratches (Jim Beyer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Floor rivets |
i called Van's about this. It's a cost issue, AN470AD4-4 rivets are
cheaper than LP4-3 pop rivets, $.0089 vs $.05. God forbid if you ever
wanted to drill out the 470's.
I used LP4-3 pop rivets.
Richard Reynolds
On Dec 30, 2006, at 10:37 PM, Sean Blair wrote:
> Is everyone using the 470 rivets on the side flanges of the back
> floor pans? The front ones use pop rivets, why the solid ones for
> the back? Is there a strength issue I=92m not thinking about? Also,
> how do you get the most forward rivets that are in between the
> front seat bracket and tunnel where the floor pan angles up?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
> #40225
>
>
> Freezing in Colorado=85.too much snow.
>
>
List
> ========================
> ========================
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Some more newbie questions |
Bob Leffler
4973 Longbenton Way
Dublin, Ohio 43017
thanks!
bob
>
> From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
> Date: 2006/12/28 Thu AM 09:23:57 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Some more newbie questions
>
>
> Bob,
>
> Shoot me your address offline and I'll send you all the opps rivets you'll ever
need. I ordered about .15# of each size and although I never needed to use
one personally ;) Some of my helpers dinged a rivet or two. I got plenty of them.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Use of tank sealant |
Guys,
I have a quick question I am ready to put the foam wedges in my elevators and
was wondering if anyone used something other then tank sealant. I live in VT
and it is hard to come by up here. I made the mistake of only ordering 1oz t
o cover the rudder trailing edge ohps. If I do have to order how much do I n
eed to finish the tail? Thanks.
--------------------------
This e-mail message (including attachments, if any) is for the sole use of th
e intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is private, confiden
tial, or exempt from disclosure. Any unauthorized review, use, copying, prin
ting, disclosure, retention, or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you
are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply to this e-
mail, and delete all copies without disclosing this message to others. Thank
you.
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server
Sent: 12/23/2006 01:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: trim tab problem.
Yeah, I've noticed your number. You may pass me up at some point, I got my e
mp kit a year ago and just finished the tail cone.
The problem I had with my trim tab is that I drilled the hinge holes wrong an
d caused a curve or hook in the hinge. This caused the hinge to bind and the
tab to twist. The hinge is very flimsy before it is mounted and can flex ea
sily. My left tab has the same problem but ever so slight I don't think I wi
ll rebuild it at this point. And if I do, I will only need to replace the hi
nge.
At first I didn't realize the real problem. I drilled out the hinge rivets o
n the tab and thought I could just clamp the tab flat, re-align the hinge and
re-rivet. While re-riveting, I bent the hinge slightly with the squeezer an
d then trying to remove the bend I put an ugly dent in the top of the tab ski
n. I then discovered the real problem of drilling the holes wrong on the ele
vator side, which transferred the curve to the tab side. I could have just r
eplaced the hinge, but I could not accept that dent. So, after an hour of fr
ustrated thought on how to save the part, I succumbed and ordered new parts t
o rebuild the whole tab. My son asked if he could have the the old tab and h
ung it in his room. He thinks it's cool. I guess that's the priceless stuff.
The way to line up those hinges is to draw a rivet line on the hinge, then pu
t that line in the center of the rivet holes and drill. Don't rely on the st
raightness of the hinge as I did, it flexes as you drill. Keep that rivet li
ne centered in the holes and cleco as you go. The old learning curve again,
seems so simple now!
Dave Leikam
40496
emp assembly
----- Original Message -----
From: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
To: DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: Van's shipping department, where did everyone go??
In a message dated 12/22/06 5:06:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, DAVELEIKAM@
wi.rr.com writes:
I ordered parts for a new right
trim tab on 12/20.
Tell me more... i am ready to bend the end tabs on both trim tabs tomorro
w.... how did you loose the right one? Thanks for sharing... i sent this
direct to you , off list. We are almost RV-10 brothers... my kit is #40499.
.. you are a few kits ahead of me.....
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 / C-170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Use of tank sealant |
You may just want to order a can for future use everywhere. There
will be places around the firewall where you'll want it, and other
things too. Just keep it in the freezer. I've come to like proseal
because it does a great job on any of the things it's recommended
for. It's tough stuff.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Michael D Chase wrote:
> Guys,
> I have a quick question I am ready to put the foam wedges in my
> elevators and was wondering if anyone used something other then tank
> sealant. I live in VT and it is hard to come by up here. I made the
> mistake of only ordering 1oz to cover the rudder trailing edge ohps. If
> I do have to order how much do I need to finish the taileless Handheld
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Use of tank sealant |
I used RTV.
Larry
#356
Michael D Chase wrote:
>
> Guys,
> I have a quick question I am ready to put the foam wedges in my
> elevators and was wondering if anyone used something other then tank
> sealant. I live in VT and it is hard to come by up here. I made the
> mistake of only ordering 1oz to cover the rudder trailing edge ohps.
> If I do have to order how much do I need to finish the taileless Handheld
>
>
> This e-mail message (including attachments, if any) is for the sole
> use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is
> private, confidential, or exempt from disclosure. Any unauthorized
> review, use, copying, printing, disclosure, retention, or distribution
> is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
> contact the sender by reply to this e-mail, and delete all copies
> without disclosing this message to others. Thank you.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> * From: *owner-rv10-list-server
> * Sent: *12/23/2006 01:53 AM
> * To: *<LIKE2LOOP@aol.com>
> * Subject: *RV10-List: trim tab problem.
>
>
> Yeah, I've noticed your number. You may pass = me up at some
> point, I got my emp kit a year ago and just finished the tail = cone.
>
> The problem I had with my trim tab is that I drilled = the hinge
> holes wrong and caused a curve or hook in the hinge. This caused =
> the hinge to bind and the tab to twist. The hinge is very flimsy
> before it = is mounted and can flex easily. My left tab has the
> same problem = but ever so slight I don't think I will rebuild it
> at this point. And = if I do, I will only need to replace the hinge.
>
> At first I didn't realize the real problem. I = drilled out the
> hinge rivets on the tab and thought I could just clamp the = tab
> flat, re-align the hinge and re-rivet. While re-riveting, I = bent
> the hinge slightly with the squeezer and then trying to remove the
> bend I = put an ugly dent in the top of the tab skin. I
> then discovered = the real problem of drilling the holes wrong on
> the elevator side, = which transferred the curve to the tab side.
> I could have just replaced the hinge, = but I could not accept that
> dent. So, after an hour of frustrated = thought on how to save the
> part, I succumbed and ordered new parts to rebuild the whole = tab.
> My son asked if he could have the the old tab and hung = it in his
> room. He thinks it's cool. I guess that's the priceless stuff.
>
> The way to line up those hinges is to draw a rivet = line on the
> hinge, then put that line in the center of the rivet holes and =
> drill. Don't rely on the straightness of the hinge as I did, it
> flexes as you drill. Keep that rivet line centered in the holes
> and cleco as you = go. The old learning curve again, seems so simple
> = now!
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> emp assembly
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* LIKE2LOOP@aol.com <3D%22mailto:LIKE2LOOP@aol.com%22>
> *To:* DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com <3D%22mailto:DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com%22>
> *Sent:* Friday, December 22, 2006 = 4:53 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Van's shipping = department, where did everyone go??
>
> In a message dated 12/22/06 5:06:23 P.M. Eastern = Standard
> Time, DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com <3D%22mailto:DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com%22>
> writes:
> /I ordered parts for a new right
> trim tab on 12/20./
>
> Tell me more... i am ready to bend the end tabs on both = trim
> tabs tomorrow.... how did you loose the right one? = Thanks
> for sharing... i sent this direct to you , off list. We are = almost
> RV-10 brothers... my kit is #40499... you are a few kits ahead of
> = me.....
>
> Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 / C-170B flyer
> 766 SE River Lane
> Port = St. Lucie, FL 34983
>
> 772-475-5556 cell
> *
>
> ============================================
> electric.com
> om">www.buildersbooks.com
> tlog.com
> mebuilthelp.com
> matronics.com/contribution
> ============================================
> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ============================================
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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John,
I put my strobe power supply to the right of the battery and ran the wires
to the wing as far as possible from the other wiring to avoid the noise the
strobe pulses can put off. I ran the wires 2 bays to the left and the right
of center and then out thru holes near the flaps. I ran the strobe wires
separately through the trailing edge of the wing.
I have attached some photos. The one of the fuse outside shows where the
strobe wire exits - a little hard to see..
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
FWF, engine, wiring
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 3:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Strobe wiring.
--> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
To many this could sound like a stupid question.
I am trying to finish up most of my wiring before I permanently attach the
baggage floors.
What I was trying to do was to have all my strobe wire bundles, both the
right wing and the left wing bundles run down the same side of my fuselage.
I've chosen the left side for them to go back to the battery compartment.
Question: I realize the strobe wire bundle will be eminating out of each
wing root aft of the main spar and infront of the rear spar attatchment
connector. Can the strobe wire bundle go from this aft location forward to
infront of the main spar(is there a any room in the large diameter hole that
is in the main spar which eminates out of the wing root) or is this hole's
space taken up with the control mechanism for the ailerons? Yes we have
gone over the ideas of gasoline and electrical runs. I was going to keep all
connectors away from fumes and gasoline.
OR
Should I simply put a hole in the fuselage skin, (obviously inside the wing
root fairing area) aft of the main spar and infront of the rear spar
connector? Then run the right wing wire bundle up and then across beneath
the seats over to the left side and back to the battery compartment.
I guess I was trying to not drill any holes in the fuselage skin, but I bet
the two existing holes that Van's has in the fuselage infront of the main
spar will be filled completely with aileron pushrods and fuel lines going
out of the tanks and return lines going back to the tank.
Thanks ahead of time.
JOhn G.
--
--
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE:Cowling Mod Photos |
I should probably wait until we fly the plane and make sure it works before
I post instructions, but I will post detail pictures and layup schedules,
etc. once that happens--early summer '07.
The hardest part was the lateral stiffener but even that wasn't so bad. I
think if you installed the stock cowl for now a retrofit wouldn't be too
hard.
I used camlocs everywhere on the upper cowl except behind the spinner
(screws). Stock hinges and pins in the lower cowl.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cowling Mod Photos
In a message dated 12/30/06 2:07:36 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
Dave@AirCraftersLLC.com writes:
We just finished a mod I really like. Here is our big oil door.
Dave,
Excellent Modification! I fly a C-170 and the entire side (both sides)
pop open like that. It is very nice being able to see the entire engine at
the preflight. You will really like this mod.
Will you please post a short description of what materials and how many
layers you used to create the stiffeners and the type and part number of the
cam locks and how you install those as well? Thanks.
What did you leave original on the cowling? Did you do away with the
entire piano hinge? Thanks for sharing...i would rather copy a smart guy vs
going it solo!
Steve
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 / C-170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell
do not archive
Message 8
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I just realized it is going to be difficult to add air to the mains,
does anyone have a better way than removing the wheel pants?
Sam Marlow
Wiring
Message 9
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We have used the little plugs that Cirrus uses to fill a 2" hole that we
drill in the pant to access the valve stem. You have to leave the cap of
the stem, but it does work. There may be other places to get them, but the
cirrus one works. Any Cirrus dealer or service center can get them, I
think, and they only cost a couple of bucks each. This is the cheapest
alternative that we have found, although it is good to take at least the
front of the pants off frequently to check the brakes and to make sure
everything in there is secure. That rod holding the outboard side of the
main pant can break off at the axle nut and that results are very not good
for the wheel pant. Ask me how I know. Make sure they are secure on a
regular basis.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SamMarlow
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 2:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Main Tires
I just realized it is going to be difficult to add air to the mains,
does anyone have a better way than removing the wheel pants?
Sam Marlow
Wiring
Message 10
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I use 4 Wal-Mart valve stem extensions connected end to end (the metal kind
work better than the plastic ones). Each wheel pant has a spring loaded SS
door (ACS item) that is lined up with the valve stem. I put a white mark on
the tire so that it points down, visible below the bottom of the wheel pant
when the valve stem is lined up with the door. Put the now long valve
extension through the door and screw onto the tire valve stem. Make sure
you take the valve stem extension out before moving the plane.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (290 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of SamMarlow
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 2:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Main Tires
I just realized it is going to be difficult to add air to the mains,
does anyone have a better way than removing the wheel pants?
Sam Marlow
Wiring
Message 11
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Carl,
Here's a link to the part I think you are using:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/accessdoors.php
Is this the right thing?
Thanks,
Marcus - also looking for a better way to check tire pressure.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 2:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Main Tires
I use 4 Wal-Mart valve stem extensions connected end to end (the metal kind
work better than the plastic ones). Each wheel pant has a spring loaded SS
door (ACS item) that is lined up with the valve stem. I put a white mark on
the tire so that it points down, visible below the bottom of the wheel pant
when the valve stem is lined up with the door. Put the now long valve
extension through the door and screw onto the tire valve stem. Make sure
you take the valve stem extension out before moving the plane.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (290 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
Message 12
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Sure!
Step one: Make sure that the inner tube valve stem exits at a 90 degree
angle (straight out from the tube).
Step two: Head down to your local truck tire store and buy a valve stem
extender.
Step three: Locate the spot on the side of the wheel pant that the
aforementioned valve stem points to. This is, by far, the hardest
part!!! Drill a 1/2" hole. If you're real good, drill a hole just
large enough to fit the valve stem extender through the hole.
Step four: When the valve stem is pointed right through that hole, mark
the tire ..... a vertical white stripe on the tire does good. You can
also use a paint tube that the tire store will sell you also.
Step five: Screw the valve stem extender on the valve stem.
Step six: Add air.
Step seven: Remove extender.
Step eight: If you want, put a 'goof plug', properly painted, in the
hole in the wheel pant.
You're done. However, it still might be easier to remove the wheel
pant!!! :-D
Linn
do not archive
SamMarlow wrote:
>
> I just realized it is going to be difficult to add air to the mains,
> does anyone have a better way than removing the wheel pants?
> Sam Marlow
> Wiring
>
>
Message 13
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Thanks for the responses.
Sean
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Reynolds
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 4:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Floor rivets
i called Van's about this. It's a cost issue, AN470AD4-4 rivets are cheaper
than LP4-3 pop rivets, $.0089 vs $.05. God forbid if you ever wanted to
drill out the 470's.
I used LP4-3 pop rivets.
Richard Reynolds
On Dec 30, 2006, at 10:37 PM, Sean Blair wrote:
Is everyone using the 470 rivets on the side flanges of the back floor pans?
The front ones use pop rivets, why the solid ones for the back? Is there a
strength issue I'm not thinking about? Also, how do you get the most
forward rivets that are in between the front seat bracket and tunnel where
the floor pan angles up?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
Freezing in Colorado..too much snow.
- NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space">
--> <http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Newbie question about scratches |
I am currently working on my horizontal stabilizer forward spar. When I
pulled the blue plastic off of the spar, I found some handling damage
scratches from =BD to 3 thousands (.003) deep. They run both with and
across
the gain. What is the best way to polish these out?
Thanks
Dick Gurley
Empanage
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Newbie question about scratches |
Unless you're planning on polishing the whole airplane ...... I'd give
the scratches attention when I was prepping to paint. By the time
you're done, there will be a lot more than just these scratches!!!
Linn
do not archive
Dick Gurley wrote:
> I am currently working on my horizontal stabilizer forward spar. When
> I pulled the blue plastic off of the spar, I found some handling
> damage scratches from to 3 thousands (.003) deep. They run both
> with and across the gain. What is the best way to polish these out?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Dick Gurley
>
> Empanage
>
>
Message 16
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Maybe I don't know what I am doing, but on the mains I don't think you can
get the valve stem to be at 90 degrees. It only goes in at an angle.
That is where the problems arise from. Again, maybe I don't know what I
am doing, but this is my experience.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
>
> Sure!
> Step one: Make sure that the inner tube valve stem exits at a 90 degree
> angle (straight out from the tube).
> Step two: Head down to your local truck tire store and buy a valve stem
> extender.
> Step three: Locate the spot on the side of the wheel pant that the
> aforementioned valve stem points to. This is, by far, the hardest
> part!!! Drill a 1/2" hole. If you're real good, drill a hole just
> large enough to fit the valve stem extender through the hole.
> Step four: When the valve stem is pointed right through that hole, mark
> the tire ..... a vertical white stripe on the tire does good. You can
> also use a paint tube that the tire store will sell you also.
> Step five: Screw the valve stem extender on the valve stem.
> Step six: Add air.
> Step seven: Remove extender.
> Step eight: If you want, put a 'goof plug', properly painted, in the
> hole in the wheel pant.
> You're done. However, it still might be easier to remove the wheel
> pant!!! :-D
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> SamMarlow wrote:
>
>>
>> I just realized it is going to be difficult to add air to the mains,
>> does anyone have a better way than removing the wheel pants?
>> Sam Marlow
>> Wiring
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Message 17
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Jesse, it depends on the tube. Sorry, I forgot that part!!! Stupid
me!!! Offhand, I don't know who makes the tube, or how to specify it.
Some valve stems just stick straight out, a littleoffset ( points to
the axle nut!) but some tubes have about an 80 degree or so bend so the
valve points parallel to the axle. I have these on my Pitts. The tubes
supplied by Vans probably have the straight ones.
Linn
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>Maybe I don't know what I am doing, but on the mains I don't think you can
>get the valve stem to be at 90 degrees. It only goes in at an angle.
>That is where the problems arise from. Again, maybe I don't know what I
>am doing, but this is my experience.
>
>Do not archive.
>
>Jesse Saint
>
>
>
>>
>>Sure!
>>Step one: Make sure that the inner tube valve stem exits at a 90 degree
>>angle (straight out from the tube).
>>Step two: Head down to your local truck tire store and buy a valve stem
>>extender.
>>Step three: Locate the spot on the side of the wheel pant that the
>>aforementioned valve stem points to. This is, by far, the hardest
>>part!!! Drill a 1/2" hole. If you're real good, drill a hole just
>>large enough to fit the valve stem extender through the hole.
>>Step four: When the valve stem is pointed right through that hole, mark
>>the tire ..... a vertical white stripe on the tire does good. You can
>>also use a paint tube that the tire store will sell you also.
>>Step five: Screw the valve stem extender on the valve stem.
>>Step six: Add air.
>>Step seven: Remove extender.
>>Step eight: If you want, put a 'goof plug', properly painted, in the
>>hole in the wheel pant.
>>You're done. However, it still might be easier to remove the wheel
>>pant!!! :-D
>>Linn
>>do not archive
>>
>>SamMarlow wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>I just realized it is going to be difficult to add air to the mains,
>>>does anyone have a better way than removing the wheel pants?
>>>Sam Marlow
>>>Wiring
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Newbie question about scratches |
Dick,
I would wait. If they're really bad you may want to smooth and prime,
but for the most part you'll have so many scratches by the time you're
done that you'll have to scothbrite and prime anyway.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Gurley
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 9:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Newbie question about scratches
I am currently working on my horizontal stabilizer forward spar. When
I pulled the blue plastic off of the spar, I found some handling damage
scratches from =BD to 3 thousands (.003) deep. They run both with and
across the gain. What is the best way to polish these out?
Thanks
Dick Gurley
Empanage
Message 19
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My main gear valve stems do not point at the wheel pants. They point at the
axle nut. Can't see any way to attach a valve stem extender to the valve
stem through a 1/2" hole in the wheel pants.
Mark
Do not archive
>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Main Tires
>Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2006 21:44:01 -0500 (EST)
>
>
>Maybe I don't know what I am doing, but on the mains I don't think you can
>get the valve stem to be at 90 degrees. It only goes in at an angle.
>That is where the problems arise from. Again, maybe I don't know what I
>am doing, but this is my experience.
>
>Do not archive.
>
>Jesse Saint
>
><pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > Sure!
> > Step one: Make sure that the inner tube valve stem exits at a 90 degree
> > angle (straight out from the tube).
> > Step two: Head down to your local truck tire store and buy a valve stem
> > extender.
> > Step three: Locate the spot on the side of the wheel pant that the
> > aforementioned valve stem points to. This is, by far, the hardest
> > part!!! Drill a 1/2" hole. If you're real good, drill a hole just
> > large enough to fit the valve stem extender through the hole.
> > Step four: When the valve stem is pointed right through that hole, mark
> > the tire ..... a vertical white stripe on the tire does good. You can
> > also use a paint tube that the tire store will sell you also.
> > Step five: Screw the valve stem extender on the valve stem.
> > Step six: Add air.
> > Step seven: Remove extender.
> > Step eight: If you want, put a 'goof plug', properly painted, in the
> > hole in the wheel pant.
> > You're done. However, it still might be easier to remove the wheel
> > pant!!! :-D
> > Linn
> > do not archive
> >
> > SamMarlow wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I just realized it is going to be difficult to add air to the mains,
> >> does anyone have a better way than removing the wheel pants?
> >> Sam Marlow
> >> Wiring
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>
>
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Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Newbie question about scratches |
Dick,
If you don't already have a 6" Scotch-brite deburring wheel mounted on a
bench-grinder, then you really should. It would smooth out those tooling
marks in no time at all. Don't be shocked at the $55 sticker price -- it's
worth every penny!
Here's a link to what I'm talking about. *http://tinyurl.com/y9z62w*
Also, the 1" x 1" abrasives mounted to a die-grinder is, IMNSHO, the only
way to de-bur inside edges such as lightening holes. Just go the the next
page from the link above.
In the mean time, some 400 (or higher) grit wet/dry sandpaper will smoothin
g
it out fine.
-Jim
P.S. I think the other guys thought you were talking about scratches on th
e
outside of a skin...yeah, there will be lots of those. Don't wory about
them until painting.
On 12/31/06, Dick Gurley <rngurley@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
> I am currently working on my horizontal stabilizer forward spar. When I
> pulled the blue plastic off of the spar, I found some handling damage
> scratches from =BD to 3 thousands (.003) deep. They run both with and ac
ross
> the gain. What is the best way to polish these out?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Dick Gurley
>
> Empanage
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
>
> *
>
>
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