Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:09 AM - Re: Plans on a PDF File? (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
2. 07:57 AM - Re: Is D2A out of business? (Mike@Crossbow)
3. 08:04 AM - Re: Plans on a PDF File? (Darton Steve)
4. 08:06 AM - Re: [LML] D2 Update (Mike@Crossbow)
5. 08:20 AM - New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines (Dave Hertner)
6. 08:56 AM - Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines (cloudvalley@comcast.net)
7. 10:15 AM - Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines (Albert Gardner)
8. 10:27 AM - Re: Use of tank sealant (Michael D Chase)
9. 11:44 AM - My experience with backrivet sets (MauleDriver)
10. 12:01 PM - Re: My experience with backrivet sets ()
11. 12:03 PM - New Chelton EFIS un-official support group page (Tim Olson)
12. 12:15 PM - Re: My experience with backrivet sets (John Gonzalez)
13. 12:30 PM - Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
14. 12:37 PM - Re: My experience with backrivet sets (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
15. 12:58 PM - Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines (Paul Grimstad)
16. 01:18 PM - Re: ELT? 406 vs 121.5 (Eric Panning)
17. 01:42 PM - Re: Use of tank sealant (jdalton77)
18. 03:52 PM - Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines (David Maib)
19. 04:22 PM - Re: ELT? 406 vs 121.5 (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
20. 05:41 PM - Installing elevators and rudders (Wayne Edgerton)
21. 06:24 PM - riveting forward fuse panel area (Chris Johnston)
22. 06:44 PM - Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines (LARSON36@aol.com)
23. 06:52 PM - Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines (LARSON36@aol.com)
24. 06:57 PM - Re: riveting forward fuse panel area (Jesse Saint)
25. 06:59 PM - Re: riveting forward fuse panel area (Larry Rosen)
26. 07:00 PM - Re: riveting forward fuse panel area (Tim Olson)
27. 07:12 PM - Re: riveting forward fuse panel area (Tim Olson)
28. 07:32 PM - Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines (Les Kearney)
29. 07:32 PM - Re: New Chelton EFIS un-official support group page (Richard Sipp)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Plans on a PDF File? |
In addition to this, contact Tim with your builder number, because there
are other options.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Plans on a PDF File?
Rusty,
They are not PDF but Tim has them on his site for discussion only:
They are good enough to get an idea of what's to come!! or when your at
work.
http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/index.html
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Is D2A out of business? |
| From: | "Mike@Crossbow" <msmith@xbow.com> |
Crossbow has issued a press release in regards to the recent events at D2A and
we have extended our upgrade program through June of 2007 in order to ensure that
all of the existing customers in the field have a chance to receive an updated
NAV425EX.
As we have stated before and have documented in detail on our website, the NAV425EX
initially had several bugs. These bugs were very difficult to replicate
in house, however after some time we did identify the problem and have been offering
updated versions free of charge to our customers. The NAV425EX and its
variants continue to be sold to multiple EFIS manufacturers and we do not have
any bugs or performance related problems with these units. We have a large
number of these units in the field that are performing very well. Crossbow was
the first company to build an FAA certified MEMS based AHRS and continues to
be a leader in the AHRS market.
If anyone currently has a NAV425EX that they would like to have updated, please contact us directly at 408-965-3300 or via email at techsupport@xbow.com. Please provide the serial number of your unit and a return shipping address. Crossbow will ensure that we update your unit in a timely manner. Please also note that we strongly suggest that all customers update their GPS antenna to an external mount GPS antenna as well as noted on our service bulletin. We have found that the Antcom 2G15A-XS-1 (www.antcom.com) is a high performance, cost effective solution for most installations.
--------
Michael Smith
Application Engineer Inertial Systems
Crossbow Technology
msmith@xbow.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84973#84973
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Plans on a PDF File? |
Rusty,
Mike Howe has them in PDF format, at the beginning of
each section he has a PDF link.
http://www.etigerrr.com/RV10HomePage.htm
Steve 40212
--- rustybliss <rbliss1015@aol.com> wrote:
> <rbliss1015@aol.com>
>
> I previously viewed and printed a PDF file depicting
> the plans for my Vertical Stabilizer, however I
> can't seem to find the web site I visited.
>
> Does anyone remember who posts this information? I
> recall the poster was very clear these plans were
> for "informational purposes only" and not to be used
> to build an aircraft.
>
> I am starting to complete my rudder, however I will
> be out of town for the next several weeks and would
> like to view/review my next step (before actually
> starting).
>
> Thanks
>
> Rusty
> 40668
> N127KB (reserved)
>
> --------
> Rusty
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84933#84933
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: [LML] D2 Update |
| From: | "Mike@Crossbow" <msmith@xbow.com> |
There are a lot of posts on this topic already, however I'd like to refer any customers
to some of the other posts to make sure that everyone has the right information.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t 828&highlight=d2a
In regards to Brent's original email, I think there is a lot of misinformation
here but we do not intend to get into a shouting match over this since this does
not benefit the customers. I will however make some key points.
1) "If Xbow can fix their own EFIS why can't they fix the NAV42X". The NAV425EX
originally had some bugs in the system, however we resolved those issues last
April and have been updating units since. This unit has been continuosly sold
to other EFIS manufacturers since then and has proven to be a high performanc
and reliable AHRS. We offered these fixes to D2A, however they chose to take
another path. Please also note that Crossbow does not currently sell an EFIS.
2) Crossbow has extended our upgrade program through June of 2007 and will be working
very closely with the panel builders to ensure the satisfaction of our
customers. Crossbow will always support our customers and will do everything
in our power to ensure that they are taken care of.
--------
Michael Smith
Application Engineer Inertial Systems
Crossbow Technology
msmith@xbow.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84976#84976
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines |
RV-10 Listers,
I have just completed my newly designed Brake Pedals and
Teflon-cored braided stainless steel brake line system. I am considering
offering this package up for sale.
Brake Pedals
I designed the brake pedals to eliminate a problem a number of RV
pilots have shared with me. When coming in for a landing with a
crosswind it is very easy to be applying the brake simultaneously with
moderate rudder inputs. This leads to higher tire wear due to the
application of brake at touchdown. In extreme cases the aircraft could
veer unexpectedly upon touchdown.
My design allows room for your toe and provides a separate pedal
tread for rudder only application. When you are applying rudder the
brake pedal is depressed OFF. You simply move your foot upward, placing
your toe on the upper tread and the heal of your foot on the lower tread
to apply the brakes.
The brake pedal chassis are constructed from stainless steel so that
there will be no di-electric issues in an area that sees moisture. The
tabs are TIG welded and the assembly is screwed together using stainless
steel hardware. The pedal treads are high quality rubber units that come
from an automotive supplier.
I have designed these brake pedals to exactly fit in place of Van's
pedals and they align at the top when the bottom of the rudder hoops are
aligned at the bottom. 3 bolts out, 3 bolts in. All you have to do is
place the appropriate washers for proper spacing.
Teflon-cored Braided Stainless Steel Brake Line System
I also developed an upgrade to the Plastic brake line system that
Vans provides with the kit. I have replaced the entire brake line system
from the reservoir to the Matco Parking brake interface with the
aluminium lines on the firewall.
In this installation I have inverted the Matco master cylinders.
This allows for a much neater installation and less clutter between your
feet.
I developed this system for a couple of reasons. First, I heard that
there were some leakage issues with the plastic lines as well as some
sponginess over time that has been attributed to the rubber lined
braided hoses that Van's supplies.
Secondly, there is aesthetics. I couldn't get over the fact that I
am building an aircraft valued over $200,000 that has the same brake
lines that are supplied with many ultralight kits. The footwell looks
much more professional and much less cluttered.
There are 3 photos below showing the entire system installed in my
RV-10. I anticipate that the brake pedals are going to sell for $175.00
for one side and $300.00 for both sides. I have yet to receive the total
cost of components for the brake lines so I haven't set the price for
them.
I am putting this out to the list to gauge interest. I have most of
the pieces of the puzzle in place to begin selling them. I just need to
hear from you builders as to whether there is interest.
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines |
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines |
Dave-I'm interested but the pictures don't show details very well. Do you
have any others that show details better?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Hertner
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 9:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines
RV-10 Listers,
I have just completed my newly designed Brake Pedals and Teflon-cored
braided stainless steel brake line system. I am considering offering this
package up for sale.
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Use of tank sealant |
Tom,
Thanks I will order a can. I also managed to lose one half of an E1008
rib some where over the Christmas week and need to place an order for one
of those as well. Having a bunch of helpers in the shop is great, but
does have a few disadvantages,though I don't think I can blame this one on
the kids, Daddy lost it.
I see Vans has switched over in there catalog away from Pro-Seal any word
on the new stuff?
Michael Chase
General Dynamics Armament and Technical Products
802-657-6029 Office
802-922-5930 Cell
mchase@gdatp.com
This e-mail message (including attachments, if any) is for the sole use of
the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is private,
confidential, or exempt from disclosure. Any unauthorized review, use,
copying, printing, disclosure, retention, or distribution is strictly
prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the
sender by reply to this e-mail, and delete all copies without disclosing
this message to others. Thank you.
Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent by: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
12/31/2006 09:41 AM
Please respond to rv10-list
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Use of tank sealant
You may just want to order a can for future use everywhere. There
will be places around the firewall where you'll want it, and other
things too. Just keep it in the freezer. I've come to like proseal
because it does a great job on any of the things it's recommended
for. It's tough stuff.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Michael D Chase wrote:
> Guys,
> I have a quick question I am ready to put the foam wedges in my
> elevators and was wondering if anyone used something other then tank
> sealant. I live in VT and it is hard to come by up here. I made the
> mistake of only ordering 1oz to cover the rudder trailing edge ohps. If
> I do have to order how much do I need to finish the taileless Handheld
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | My experience with backrivet sets |
I've been using the backrivet set from ATS and getting acceptable
results. However, I recently had my first opportunity to use a 12" long
backrivet from Cleaveland and discovered that it was easier to get good
results.
The ATS has a thick plastic collar that I had to grind a flat spot on in
order to get squarely on the J stiffener rivets. I've hit it twice more
with the grinder to ease access on other rivets.
The ATS also has a convex face on the set. I found that unless the set
was well centered and straight, it was easy to get tilted, concave shop
heads.
The Cleaveland 12" tool (or whoever's tool they distribute) has a thin
plastic collar and I found it fit the J stiffeners very nicely. The face
of the set is flatter and it's easier to get square, flat shop heads. I
just ordered their normal length backrivet set and understand it is
setup the same as the 12".
Just sharing the experience.
Bill (backriveting the tailcone & trying to finish those elevators) Watson
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: My experience with backrivet sets |
That same set is great for backriveting your top wing skins on with as
well....put the bucking bar on the rivet head and set the rivet using the
12" set from inside the wing. It took us about an hour and a half to do all
of the top skins after placing the rivets and taping half of them in,
removing clecos and repeating. Used the 3lb dumbell looking bucking bar from
Cleavland. Not a blemish one on the top skins.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 11:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: My experience with backrivet sets
>
> I've been using the backrivet set from ATS and getting acceptable results.
> However, I recently had my first opportunity to use a 12" long backrivet
> from Cleaveland and discovered that it was easier to get good results.
>
> The ATS has a thick plastic collar that I had to grind a flat spot on in
> order to get squarely on the J stiffener rivets. I've hit it twice more
> with the grinder to ease access on other rivets.
>
> The ATS also has a convex face on the set. I found that unless the set
> was well centered and straight, it was easy to get tilted, concave shop
> heads.
>
> The Cleaveland 12" tool (or whoever's tool they distribute) has a thin
> plastic collar and I found it fit the J stiffeners very nicely. The face
> of the set is flatter and it's easier to get square, flat shop heads. I
> just ordered their normal length backrivet set and understand it is setup
> the same as the 12".
>
> Just sharing the experience.
>
> Bill (backriveting the tailcone & trying to finish those elevators) Watson
>
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New Chelton EFIS un-official support group page |
Hi all,
Having gone through all the usual EFIS config questions myself
as I got my system flying, I had been thinking of starting a forum
just for Chelton system owners to give a place to share all kinds
of info relating to the Chelton Experimental EFIS systems.
With the recent financial issues and ultra-poor situation that
some of the buyers of these systems were left in, I decided that
the time is really NOW that I needed to get something going,
as there are lots of people who are in limbo and looking
for info. There's a lot of Mis-information available, and
hopefully in a private forum for owners/buyers of this EFIS
system, we can all help keep eachother informed as to the
current status of the situation.
So over the holiday's I got the site ready and launched
http://www.CheltonEFISpilots.com
It is a private forum, for many reasons, but that should help
keep the bandwidth to a useful level, and eliminate the kind
of bickering that goes on when you throw a mass of people
together who have uncommon objectives in their purchase.
Keeping it to a group of people who are already committed to
their system keeps the information more on-target, such as
what the GRT_EFIS forum has.
So I welcome any people who are Chelton system buyers/owners/users
to come and participate. Hopefully it'll give some positivity
in light of the recent negativity surrounding the product.
I'm not affiliated, nor is the list, with any company whatsoever,
so it's a truly independent forum, and in fact I'd like to not
have any factory or D2AV type involvement unless and until
they first take care of their customers. Once everyone
is all good and happy again, then I'm sure we'd love some
direct support contacts.
One quick note about registration, for those who this
all applies. Please register and provide your info so that
everyone can identify eachother clearly, and use your signature
field in your profile. Also, it may take me a little time after
you register before I can get to the link to accept, so
don't panic. I am usually pretty quick about things unless
I'm asleep or gone.
Thanks for the bandwidth. This email is only going out on
the RV and RV-10 list. If you know of other places where
groups of the EFIS users are, feel free to pass it on.
Tim Olson - RV-10 Builder and Chelton flier
do not archive
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | My experience with backrivet sets |
This is an interesting observation. I was just thinking about that tool.
My experience was that mine was too much tool for my #2 rivet gun and it
didn't back rivet very well. I thought the shaft was too thick, too heavy
and didn't allow the #2 gun to throw its' punch well enough into the rivet.
Maybe mine is an Avery, but it is a 12" offset back rivet set. I would love
to get a smaller diameter one with a smaller plastic cap.
The little straight, three inch one works like a charm. But can't use it in
the spots you are talking about(these rivets on the J stiffners right next
to the bulkheads)
John G.
Do Not Archive
>From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>To: RV10-List Digest Server <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: My experience with backrivet sets
>Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2007 14:42:52 -0500
>
>
>I've been using the backrivet set from ATS and getting acceptable results.
>However, I recently had my first opportunity to use a 12" long backrivet
>from Cleaveland and discovered that it was easier to get good results.
>
>The ATS has a thick plastic collar that I had to grind a flat spot on in
>order to get squarely on the J stiffener rivets. I've hit it twice more
>with the grinder to ease access on other rivets.
>
>The ATS also has a convex face on the set. I found that unless the set was
>well centered and straight, it was easy to get tilted, concave shop heads.
>
>The Cleaveland 12" tool (or whoever's tool they distribute) has a thin
>plastic collar and I found it fit the J stiffeners very nicely. The face of
>the set is flatter and it's easier to get square, flat shop heads. I just
>ordered their normal length backrivet set and understand it is setup the
>same as the 12".
>
>Just sharing the experience.
>
>Bill (backriveting the tailcone & trying to finish those elevators) Watson
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines |
I put the full size photos on our website at:
www.cleavelandtool.com/filecab/brakes.htm
On 1/2/07, Albert Gardner <ibspud@adelphia.net> wrote:
>
> Dave-I'm interested but the pictures don't show details very well. Do you
> have any others that show details better?
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> Yuma , AZ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Hertner
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 02, 2007 9:19 AM
> *To:* RV10-List@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines
>
> RV-10 Listers,
>
>
> I have just completed my newly designed Brake Pedals and Teflon-cored
> braided stainless steel brake line system. I am considering offering this
> package up for sale.
>
>
> *
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
>
--
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
515-432-6794
www.cleavelandtool.com
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: My experience with backrivet sets |
Thanks again Bill for the kind words.
We designed and manufacture our own. We find it works better in a variety
of areas. The thin collars occasionally fracture, but it is worth the risk,
and we have replacements if that happens. Originally we made the collars
out of aluminum. We had complaints that it marked the back side up.
Although this is not really a problem functionally we switched to the delrin
material.
Mike
--
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
515-432-6794
www.cleavelandtool.com
On 1/2/07, MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> I've been using the backrivet set from ATS and getting acceptable
> results. However, I recently had my first opportunity to use a 12" long
> backrivet from Cleaveland and discovered that it was easier to get good
> results.
>
> The ATS has a thick plastic collar that I had to grind a flat spot on in
> order to get squarely on the J stiffener rivets. I've hit it twice more
> with the grinder to ease access on other rivets.
>
> The ATS also has a convex face on the set. I found that unless the set
> was well centered and straight, it was easy to get tilted, concave shop
> heads.
>
> The Cleaveland 12" tool (or whoever's tool they distribute) has a thin
> plastic collar and I found it fit the J stiffeners very nicely. The face
> of the set is flatter and it's easier to get square, flat shop heads. I
> just ordered their normal length backrivet set and understand it is
> setup the same as the 12".
>
> Just sharing the experience.
>
> Bill (backriveting the tailcone & trying to finish those elevators) Watson
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines |
Dave
I am interested in your pedal design and the break line plumbing work.
Does Matco advise and approve the inverted master cylinders? Is there a
greater chance for leakage? Have you considered the weight change from
the original design? Questions, questions, I know. Thanks for putting
your effort into this design change. I have not liked the rudder pedal
design from the beginning and agree with you 100% that it needs
improvement.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450 fuselage
Portland, OR 97219
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Hertner
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 8:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines
RV-10 Listers,
I have just completed my newly designed Brake Pedals and
Teflon-cored braided stainless steel brake line system. I am considering
offering this package up for sale.
Brake Pedals
I designed the brake pedals to eliminate a problem a number of RV
pilots have shared with me. When coming in for a landing with a
crosswind it is very easy to be applying the brake simultaneously with
moderate rudder inputs. This leads to higher tire wear due to the
application of brake at touchdown. In extreme cases the aircraft could
veer unexpectedly upon touchdown.
My design allows room for your toe and provides a separate pedal
tread for rudder only application. When you are applying rudder the
brake pedal is depressed OFF. You simply move your foot upward, placing
your toe on the upper tread and the heal of your foot on the lower tread
to apply the brakes.
The brake pedal chassis are constructed from stainless steel so
that there will be no di-electric issues in an area that sees moisture.
The tabs are TIG welded and the assembly is screwed together using
stainless steel hardware. The pedal treads are high quality rubber units
that come from an automotive supplier.
I have designed these brake pedals to exactly fit in place of
Van's pedals and they align at the top when the bottom of the rudder
hoops are aligned at the bottom. 3 bolts out, 3 bolts in. All you have
to do is place the appropriate washers for proper spacing.
Teflon-cored Braided Stainless Steel Brake Line System
I also developed an upgrade to the Plastic brake line system that
Vans provides with the kit. I have replaced the entire brake line system
from the reservoir to the Matco Parking brake interface with the
aluminium lines on the firewall.
In this installation I have inverted the Matco master cylinders.
This allows for a much neater installation and less clutter between your
feet.
I developed this system for a couple of reasons. First, I heard
that there were some leakage issues with the plastic lines as well as
some sponginess over time that has been attributed to the rubber lined
braided hoses that Van's supplies.
Secondly, there is aesthetics. I couldn't get over the fact that I
am building an aircraft valued over $200,000 that has the same brake
lines that are supplied with many ultralight kits. The footwell looks
much more professional and much less cluttered.
There are 3 photos below showing the entire system installed in my
RV-10. I anticipate that the brake pedals are going to sell for $175.00
for one side and $300.00 for both sides. I have yet to receive the total
cost of components for the brake lines so I haven't set the price for
them.
I am putting this out to the list to gauge interest. I have most
of the pieces of the puzzle in place to begin selling them. I just need
to hear from you builders as to whether there is interest.
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ELT? 406 vs 121.5 |
The 406 ELT's provide more precise position
information to satellites, with a 2 mile dia search
area vs ~ 12 miles for 121.5. They also transmit a
unique code that can be looked up in a database and
show contact info, etc. The GPS 406 systems offer a
less than 0.5 nm radius as they transmit position as
well.
False error rate for 121.5 is ~ 97%, with 94% turned
on at airports. Because the potential search radius is
so large, and the signal is anonymous, lot's of
resources can be spent looking for potential downed
planes (that end up tied down at the airport).
With 406, they can call your contact info, or call the
tower and ask if your N number is on the field, or
just departed, etc. This makes it much more likely
that you will get an emergency response that makes a
difference.
As an example, what if you were flying and crashed 10
miles away before you could get a mayday out? With a
406 beacon, then would start calling contact info,
home field, etc. If they called the field, and they
said you just left and could not raise you - then the
calvary could be sent out faster looking for you (and
have a good idea where to start).
Same situation with 121.5, you crashed close enough to
the airport that they might assume you are another of
the 97% false alarms and not do anything initially
other than call the tower (who would ask local traffic
to check their ELT and see if they hear 121.5).
I'm not sure how many successful rescues, or even if
faster would make much of a difference. But if faster
closure is reached with family and friends than I
think it is worth it.
http://www.acc.af.mil/shared/media/document/AFD-060405-037.doc
If you are traveling over water, or remote areas, a
personal ELT is not a bad investment. This one is less
than 700 bucks and is 406 + GPS, all in a small, water
proof case. Bring it with you while hiking, biking,
kayaking, climbing, etc. I have an older 121.5
personal ELT but am considering upgrading.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/136072/0/0/406%20ELT/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0
Happy Holidays,
Eric
40150. Fuselage kit moving slowly, but I've started on
my IFR ticket...
--- rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> <rv10builder@bellsouth.net>
>
> While we're on the subject, is there any real
> compelling reason to
> install a 406Mhz ELT (other than the obvious
> COSPAS-SARSAT discontinued
> service in 02/09?). I don't recall ever hearing of
> a GA aircraft being
> located with the assistance of satellites, and I'm
> not clear if this is
> a mandate. One other question...is one mfg. of ELT
> considered "trash"
> whereas another as "treasure"?
>
> Brian
> #40308
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Use of tank sealant |
I used metal/plastic 5-min epoxy on the wedges and trailing edge.
Worked just fine.
Jeff Dalton
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael D Chase
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Use of tank sealant
Tom,
Thanks I will order a can. I also managed to lose one half of an
E1008 rib some where over the Christmas week and need to place an order
for one of those as well. Having a bunch of helpers in the shop is
great, but does have a few disadvantages,though I don't think I can
blame this one on the kids, Daddy lost it.
I see Vans has switched over in there catalog away from Pro-Seal any
word on the new stuff?
Michael Chase
General Dynamics Armament and Technical Products
802-657-6029 Office
802-922-5930 Cell
mchase@gdatp.com
This e-mail message (including attachments, if any) is for the sole
use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is
private, confidential, or exempt from disclosure. Any unauthorized
review, use, copying, printing, disclosure, retention, or distribution
is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
contact the sender by reply to this e-mail, and delete all copies
without disclosing this message to others. Thank you.
Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent by: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
12/31/2006 09:41 AM
Please respond to rv10-list
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Use of tank sealant
You may just want to order a can for future use everywhere. There
will be places around the firewall where you'll want it, and other
things too. Just keep it in the freezer. I've come to like proseal
because it does a great job on any of the things it's recommended
for. It's tough stuff.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Michael D Chase wrote:
> Guys,
> I have a quick question I am ready to put the foam wedges in my
> elevators and was wondering if anyone used something other then tank
> sealant. I live in VT and it is hard to come by up here. I made the
> mistake of only ordering 1oz to cover the rudder trailing edge
ohps. If
> I do have to order how much do I need to finish the taileless
Handheld
>
>
FORUMS -
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines |
I would be interested.
David Maib
#40559
On Jan 2, 2007, at 10:18 AM, Dave Hertner wrote:
RV-10 Listers,
I have just completed my newly designed Brake Pedals and Teflon-
cored braided stainless steel brake line system. I am considering
offering this package up for sale.
Brake Pedals
I designed the brake pedals to eliminate a problem a number of
RV pilots have shared with me. When coming in for a landing with a
crosswind it is very easy to be applying the brake simultaneously
with moderate rudder inputs. This leads to higher tire wear due to
the application of brake at touchdown. In extreme cases the aircraft
could veer unexpectedly upon touchdown.
My design allows room for your toe and provides a separate pedal
tread for rudder only application. When you are applying rudder the
brake pedal is depressed OFF. You simply move your foot upward,
placing your toe on the upper tread and the heal of your foot on the
lower tread to apply the brakes.
The brake pedal chassis are constructed from stainless steel so
that there will be no di-electric issues in an area that sees
moisture. The tabs are TIG welded and the assembly is screwed
together using stainless steel hardware. The pedal treads are high
quality rubber units that come from an automotive supplier.
I have designed these brake pedals to exactly fit in place of
Van's pedals and they align at the top when the bottom of the rudder
hoops are aligned at the bottom. 3 bolts out, 3 bolts in. All you
have to do is place the appropriate washers for proper spacing.
Teflon-cored Braided Stainless Steel Brake Line System
I also developed an upgrade to the Plastic brake line system
that Vans provides with the kit. I have replaced the entire brake
line system from the reservoir to the Matco Parking brake interface
with the aluminium lines on the firewall.
In this installation I have inverted the Matco master cylinders.
This allows for a much neater installation and less clutter between
your feet.
I developed this system for a couple of reasons. First, I heard
that there were some leakage issues with the plastic lines as well as
some sponginess over time that has been attributed to the rubber
lined braided hoses that Van's supplies.
Secondly, there is aesthetics. I couldn't get over the fact that
I am building an aircraft valued over $200,000 that has the same
brake lines that are supplied with many ultralight kits. The footwell
looks much more professional and much less cluttered.
There are 3 photos below showing the entire system installed in
my RV-10. I anticipate that the brake pedals are going to sell for
$175.00 for one side and $300.00 for both sides. I have yet to
receive the total cost of components for the brake lines so I haven't
set the price for them.
I am putting this out to the list to gauge interest. I have most
of the pieces of the puzzle in place to begin selling them. I just
need to hear from you builders as to whether there is interest.
<004701c72e89$b55ff330$6501a8c0>
<004801c72e89$b55ff330$6501a8c0>
<004901c72e89$b55ff330$6501a8c0>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | ELT? 406 vs 121.5 |
Personally, I'm going to go with a PLB for now and a standard ELT in the
aircraft. Reasoning being that the price of the aircraft 406 should
come down a bit over the next few years and I would rather have a PLB as
I like to do a lot of out of the way things where there is no help if
you run into trouble. If something would ever happen in the aircraft
before I switch to a 406 ELT, hopefully I will still have the option of
deploying the PLB and getting the same level of service. In other words
still be conscious and able to reach the PLB.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 limbo
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ELT? 406 vs 121.5
<ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
The 406 ELT's provide more precise position
information to satellites, with a 2 mile dia search
area vs ~ 12 miles for 121.5. They also transmit a
unique code that can be looked up in a database and
show contact info, etc. The GPS 406 systems offer a
less than 0.5 nm radius as they transmit position as
well.
False error rate for 121.5 is ~ 97%, with 94% turned
on at airports. Because the potential search radius is
so large, and the signal is anonymous, lot's of
resources can be spent looking for potential downed
planes (that end up tied down at the airport).
With 406, they can call your contact info, or call the
tower and ask if your N number is on the field, or
just departed, etc. This makes it much more likely
that you will get an emergency response that makes a
difference.
As an example, what if you were flying and crashed 10
miles away before you could get a mayday out? With a
406 beacon, then would start calling contact info,
home field, etc. If they called the field, and they
said you just left and could not raise you - then the
calvary could be sent out faster looking for you (and
have a good idea where to start).
Same situation with 121.5, you crashed close enough to
the airport that they might assume you are another of
the 97% false alarms and not do anything initially
other than call the tower (who would ask local traffic
to check their ELT and see if they hear 121.5).
I'm not sure how many successful rescues, or even if
faster would make much of a difference. But if faster
closure is reached with family and friends than I
think it is worth it.
http://www.acc.af.mil/shared/media/document/AFD-060405-037.doc
If you are traveling over water, or remote areas, a
personal ELT is not a bad investment. This one is less
than 700 bucks and is 406 + GPS, all in a small, water
proof case. Bring it with you while hiking, biking,
kayaking, climbing, etc. I have an older 121.5
personal ELT but am considering upgrading.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10
001/136072/0/0/406%20ELT/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0
Happy Holidays,
Eric
40150. Fuselage kit moving slowly, but I've started on
my IFR ticket...
--- rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> <rv10builder@bellsouth.net>
>
> While we're on the subject, is there any real
> compelling reason to
> install a 406Mhz ELT (other than the obvious
> COSPAS-SARSAT discontinued
> service in 02/09?). I don't recall ever hearing of
> a GA aircraft being
> located with the assistance of satellites, and I'm
> not clear if this is
> a mandate. One other question...is one mfg. of ELT
> considered "trash"
> whereas another as "treasure"?
>
> Brian
> #40308
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Installing elevators and rudders |
I am just finishing up installing my elevators and rudder and a fellow
RV10 builder, Ron Grover, on the field where I'm at, Prop Wash Justin,
TX, gave me a great tip and the loan of his tool that really made the
job much easer. Actually Ron came over and help me install the
elevators. Boy it's really nice to have someone help you that's done
something before you. Ron has a beautiful RV8 he built and is working on
his 10.
Anyway the tool that Ron loaned me, see attachment 1-2-07-1, is for
inserting temporarily in the attach brackets to hold the elevator or the
rudder in place until you can get the bolt installed. I just put my hand
in the picture as a reference to their size I can't remember off hand
but I think he said he got them at Aircraft Spruce?. I've also attached
a photo of them installed on the rudder if you're able to zoom in a
little to see them.Probably everyone already knows about these tools
except me :>} I've also attached the finished product 1-2-07-2. It
obviously works the same way on the elevators.
I've now got the elevators and rudder generally installed I just need to
make the final touches.
For what ever it's worth
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Trying to get this thing finished and start flying if the vendors will
just start co-operating :>} Props been delayed AGAIN
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | riveting forward fuse panel area |
hey all -
i have many questions!!! I'm now in week 2 of my vacation - been home
working on the airplane the whole time... I've just finished the flap
actuation section, and I'm into the panel area. I haven't really
finalized my panel layout, or even which type of panel (aluminum or
fiberglass) I'm going with. Question - Am I a fool to rivet the upper
forward fuselage section to the aircraft? Is it really that tough to
install the panel if you've done this already? I won't be able to move
on if i don't rivet it on, but I don't want to hose myself.
also, in this section, you're supposed to rivet on some hinges for the
cowl. I'm using camlocs, but I haven't received them yet. should I
just leave the rivets out of the firewall flange for now? I'm kinda
lost here... it seems like you need the engine on before you can mount
the camlocs right? or do you mount the receptacles now, and do the rest
when you're doing the cowl? what the heck?
thanks in advance!
cj
#40410
(con)fuse(d)
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines |
I would be interested,
Larry Klein, 40206 _larson36@aol.com_ (mailto:larson36@aol.com)
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines |
Dave,
I am interested as well
Larry Klein
40206
Monterey, Ma.
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | riveting forward fuse panel area |
Chris,
I imagine for some things it is a lot easier to install the panel, or at
least get a lot of the wires and systems in, before installing the upper fwd
fuse, but a lot of people, including me, just install it and run everything
with it in, especially those that don't want to invest in the instruments
before they need to. There is a lot you can do without it, like installing
the cabin top (if you haven't already), but there certain things that just
can't be done with it off. It is even possible to fit the cowling without
doing a final install, but it does require a couple of rivets. Fitting the
cowling does require an engine (or at least most of one), though. I would
recommend at least doing some of the sub-panel modifications before
installing it, which will help a lot. You won't be hosed if you go ahead
and put it in, IMHO. I would say, on the Camloc issue, that you really
can't rivet the glareshield skin to the firewall without the Camloc stuff,
unless you just rivet on a piece of aluminum and mount the Camlocs in that,
but I seem to remember seeing a special Camloc receptacle thing that rivets
on there for those who want it. In this case, you need those first, but you
could put a couple of "keeper" rivets along the firewall and go ahead and
rivet down the sides.
Hope this helps.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 9:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: riveting forward fuse panel area
hey all -
i have many questions!!! I'm now in week 2 of my vacation - been home
working on the airplane the whole time... I've just finished the flap
actuation section, and I'm into the panel area. I haven't really finalized
my panel layout, or even which type of panel (aluminum or fiberglass) I'm
going with. Question - Am I a fool to rivet the upper forward fuselage
section to the aircraft? Is it really that tough to install the panel if
you've done this already? I won't be able to move on if i don't rivet it
on, but I don't want to hose myself.
also, in this section, you're supposed to rivet on some hinges for the cowl.
I'm using camlocs, but I haven't received them yet. should I just leave the
rivets out of the firewall flange for now? I'm kinda lost here... it seems
like you need the engine on before you can mount the camlocs right? or do
you mount the receptacles now, and do the rest when you're doing the cowl?
what the heck?
thanks in advance!
cj
#40410
(con)fuse(d)
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: riveting forward fuse panel area |
I am holding off riveting the forward fuse panel area. I still have it
clecoed in place. I fit the canopy, fit the doors, I just installed the
overhead in the canopy, I am working on wiring the plane, I want to get
as many of the firewall penetrations completed, put the strips in for
the camlocs, and then just before I complete the final install of the
canopy, that is when I will rivet in the forward fuse plane. It is much
easier working on the plane with the forward panel removable and the
canopy off.
Larry Rosen
#356
Chris Johnston wrote:
> hey all -
>
> i have many questions!!! I'm now in week 2 of my vacation - been home working
on the airplane the whole time... I've just finished the flap actuation section,
and I'm into the panel area. I haven't really finalized my panel layout,
or even which type of panel (aluminum or fiberglass) I'm going with. Question
- Am I a fool to rivet the upper forward fuselage section to the aircraft?
Is it really that tough to install the panel if you've done this already? I
won't be able to move on if i don't rivet it on, but I don't want to hose myself.
>
> also, in this section, you're supposed to rivet on some hinges for the cowl.
I'm using camlocs, but I haven't received them yet. should I just leave the
rivets out of the firewall flange for now? I'm kinda lost here... it seems like
you need the engine on before you can mount the camlocs right? or do you
mount the receptacles now, and do the rest when you're doing the cowl? what the
heck?
>
> thanks in advance!
>
> cj
> #40410
> (con)fuse(d)
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: riveting forward fuse panel area |
Hi Chris,
You should be able to actually probably even attach the fiberglass
top before you finally rivet on the upper forward fuse. I was
able to slide mine in place with the canopy in place. I would
install it as late as possible, but even with it installed,
you should still be able to do plenty of panel work. Just a
few things may not be quite as easy. Not a huge deal.
Same thing with the firewall flange up there. Just cleco it and
do all that when you finally do that upper forward fuse. Basically,
you should be able to just press on until you just can't do
much more without riveting that stuff. I didn't do camlocs, but
you probably can mount the recepticle side anytime, if you
can see where you want them to go. The trick is, you'll want the
engine on to do the cowl, and you'll want the cowl trimmed to
place the camlocs. So you probably can't do them unless you
can model after someone elses and know close to where they'll
be. I'd just wait if I were you.
There's so darn much stuff to do on the kit that I'd just plug
away at everything that you obviously can do, and procrastinate
on everything you can that seals it all up.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Chris Johnston wrote:
> hey all -
>
> i have many questions!!! I'm now in week 2 of my vacation - been
> home working on the airplane the whole time... I've just finished
> the flap actuation section, and I'm into the panel area. I haven't
> really finalized my panel layout, or even which type of panel
> (aluminum or fiberglass) I'm going with. Question - Am I a fool to
> rivet the upper forward fuselage section to the aircraft? Is it
> really that tough to install the panel if you've done this already?
> I won't be able to move on if i don't rivet it on, but I don't want
> to hose myself.
>
> also, in this section, you're supposed to rivet on some hinges for
> the cowl. I'm using camlocs, but I haven't received them yet.
> should I just leave the rivets out of the firewall flange for now?
> I'm kinda lost here... it seems like you need the engine on before
> you can mount the camlocs right? or do you mount the receptacles
> now, and do the rest when you're doing the cowl? what the heck?
>
> thanks in advance!
>
> cj #40410 (con)fuse(d)
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: riveting forward fuse panel area |
Great point about the subpanel, Jesse. Chris, he's right
about one thing. If you're going to chop up and reinforce
those panel ribs on the sides, you'll want to do that before
you mount the forward fuse on the fuselage....and you'll want
to make sure you have them cut far enough to clear the
instruments you're planning on.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Chris,
>
> I imagine for some things it is a lot easier to install the panel, or at
> least get a lot of the wires and systems in, before installing the upper fwd
> fuse, but a lot of people, including me, just install it and run everything
> with it in, especially those that don't want to invest in the instruments
> before they need to. There is a lot you can do without it, like installing
> the cabin top (if you haven't already), but there certain things that just
> can't be done with it off. It is even possible to fit the cowling without
> doing a final install, but it does require a couple of rivets. Fitting the
> cowling does require an engine (or at least most of one), though. I would
> recommend at least doing some of the sub-panel modifications before
> installing it, which will help a lot. You won't be hosed if you go ahead
> and put it in, IMHO. I would say, on the Camloc issue, that you really
> can't rivet the glareshield skin to the firewall without the Camloc stuff,
> unless you just rivet on a piece of aluminum and mount the Camlocs in that,
> but I seem to remember seeing a special Camloc receptacle thing that rivets
> on there for those who want it. In this case, you need those first, but you
> could put a couple of "keeper" rivets along the firewall and go ahead and
> rivet down the sides.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 9:24 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: riveting forward fuse panel area
>
> hey all -
>
> i have many questions!!! I'm now in week 2 of my vacation - been home
> working on the airplane the whole time... I've just finished the flap
> actuation section, and I'm into the panel area. I haven't really finalized
> my panel layout, or even which type of panel (aluminum or fiberglass) I'm
> going with. Question - Am I a fool to rivet the upper forward fuselage
> section to the aircraft? Is it really that tough to install the panel if
> you've done this already? I won't be able to move on if i don't rivet it
> on, but I don't want to hose myself.
>
> also, in this section, you're supposed to rivet on some hinges for the cowl.
> I'm using camlocs, but I haven't received them yet. should I just leave the
> rivets out of the firewall flange for now? I'm kinda lost here... it seems
> like you need the engine on before you can mount the camlocs right? or do
> you mount the receptacles now, and do the rest when you're doing the cowl?
> what the heck?
>
> thanks in advance!
>
> cj
> #40410
> (con)fuse(d)
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New Design Brake Pedals and Stainless Brake Lines |
I would be interested,
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: New Chelton EFIS un-official support group page |
Thanks for the forum work Tim. I tried to et D2A to sponsor one some time
ago. Under the current circumstances the independent format is much better.
Have had a couple of email/phone exchanges with Chelton, they appear to be
in the customer status data collection mode. Certainly a better response
than that first caustic lawyer type message.
I have everything accept the ADHARS, my units shipped soon after D2A decided
to go with the Pinpoint.
Dick Sipp
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|