Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:49 AM - Re: Van's shipping department, where did everyone go?? (Eric_Kallio)
2. 07:00 AM - Re: Avionics fan (Tim Olson)
3. 07:01 AM - Re: Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder (Marc & Kathy)
4. 07:50 AM - Re: prop hub space (Mike Kraus)
5. 07:50 AM - Re: Seeking sales position (Mike Kraus)
6. 11:13 AM - Re: Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder (John Testement)
7. 11:45 AM - [Fw: D2A announcement] (Deems Davis)
8. 11:56 AM - sirius!! (John Gonzalez)
9. 01:29 PM - Re: [Fw: D2A announcement] (gary)
10. 02:07 PM - Re: [Fw: D2A announcement] (David McNeill)
11. 02:45 PM - Re: Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder (MauleDriver)
12. 02:48 PM - Re: sirius!! (MauleDriver)
13. 02:58 PM - Cabin top too rough? (Chris Johnston)
14. 03:24 PM - OT - What a nice day and aren't pilots great (MauleDriver)
15. 03:46 PM - Re: Cabin top too rough? (Marcus Cooper)
16. 04:14 PM - Re: Cabin top too rough? (Deems Davis)
17. 04:24 PM - Re: Cabin top too rough? (Chris Johnston)
18. 06:01 PM - Re: Cabin top too rough? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
19. 06:31 PM - The Chelton offer (David McNeill)
20. 06:48 PM - Re: Cabin top too rough? (zackrv8)
21. 06:53 PM - Re: The Chelton offer (Tim Olson)
22. 07:01 PM - Re: Cabin top too rough? (Jesse Saint)
23. 07:23 PM - Adding Extra Holes in Center Bulkhead (Larry Rosen)
24. 10:51 PM - N591VU Flies (DejaVu)
25. 11:32 PM - Re: N591VU Flies (Larry Rosen)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Van's shipping department, where did everyone go?? |
I just got my standard or slow-build wings in November. It took 8 weeks to get
them shipped. I ordered some parts such as the fuel senders and some tubing. 2
weeks after the order was placed it finally showed up. As for the tailcone I
spent about 85 hours on it.
Eric Kallio
40518-leading edges
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85843#85843
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Avionics fan |
The GTX330 does have a place for a fan tube to mount. I have
a fan, but have yet to connect the air tubes. Right now it's
just circulating air around, blowing downward, while the
hot air is rising upwards. I'm too lazy to finish the job
right now. It's mounted on one of the longitudinal panel ribs,
in the forward secton of the upper forward fuselage...mine is
on the copilot side. The other side's rib is also where I
mounted things like the stall horn. You could make a flange
and try to connect it to the Chelton screens and the GTX330
has the mount, but I haven't found them to have issues since
they have their own fans. I wouldn't worry about the SL30/
definitely not about the PMA8000. Don't know about the AFS3400.
If they don't say they need them, I'd skip it unless you can
easily make it work. Make sure you're now blowing air into
an exhaust exit fan.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Testement wrote:
> I am in the process of wiring my panel. I bought a small 3 outlet
> avionics fan and am trying to figure out where to mount it and where to
> run the tubes. My avionics include 2 Chelton screens (sans GADHRS
> -#$%&!), 2 SL30s, GTX330, PM8000, AFS3400. None of state the need for a
> fan or have a connection for the tube.
>
> What recommendations can you make?
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> FWF, engine, wiring
> do not archive
>
> --
> 1/4/2007
>
> *
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
Les
I used a 1" wood rod also. It was an industrial broom handle. I
didn't the skin to it though. Instead, I used duct tape
and over rolled it just a bit. Worked out great.
Marc Hudson
560
On Jan 5, 2007, at 11:40 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hmmm,
>
>
> Now that sounds like a wonderfully simple idea. I found with the
> smaller diameter pipe and bending the edge after the rivet line
> made things easier.
>
>
> It seems that there is a lot of stress on the holes as they are
> being clecoed and match drilled. I wonder if a better solution (and
> less stressful to the holes) would be to:
>
>
> 1. Drill the holes to size prior to rolling the edges
>
> 2. De-burr the holes
>
> 3. Bend the edges as required
>
> 4. Roll the edges
>
> 5. Clecoe the edges together
>
> 6. Install the Pop rivets
>
>
> I wonder if this would cause less deformation in the holes than
> assembly, disassembly and then reassembly.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> RV10 # 40643 ' Lost in the empennage.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Reining
> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 8:54 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator &
> rudder
>
>
> <jonathan.w.reining@wellsfargo.com>
>
>
> Les - I used some 1" OD steel pipe and match drilled holes in the
> pipe and then clecoed the skin to the pipe - it worked great.
>
>
> Jon Reining (with my dad Bill)
>
> 41514 - tailcone - still (need to get finished with this house
> remodel)
>
> do not archive
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85640#85640
>
>
List
> ========================
> ========================
>
Message 4
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|
We used the dimensions on Van's web site to set the cowl for the RV-7 we
built before we had the prop. After we set the prop and reinstalled the
cowl, there was interference. We then had to re-cut the back of the
cowl to the fuselage and re-do that area, which then caused the cowl to
not fit as nice as we would have liked (it puts added stress on the side
hinges). On my -4 and on my -10, we had the prop prior to cowl install
and they both turned out nice.
Not to say it can't be done without the prop, but my recommendation is
to have the prop and spinner on before setting the cowl and you know it
will be right and will be able to sleep at night.
-Mike Kraus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven
DiNieri
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 5:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: prop hub space
--> <capsteve@adelphia.net>
I've got my engine hung and am getting ready to fit the cowling, but I
don't have a prop or hub. I do have the spinner, but need to know the
exact size of the constant speed prop hub to ensure proper spacing. I
figured I'd be able to insert a spacer between the spinner backplate and
flywheel. I did check archives and vans does have a note online but I
really need to hear some actual measured dimensions to be able to sleep
at night. I'm sure some would also be interested in knowing if the MT
and Hartzel are dimensionally the same. Any and all input would be
greatly appreciated.
Steve
40205
Iflyrv10.com
Coming soon
Message 5
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Subject: | Seeking sales position |
I like my builder number better.... 40013
-Mike Kraus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seeking sales position
What a builders number. 666.
Larry
#356
do not archive
cloudvalley@comcast.net wrote:
> Hello!
> It's a small world. My wife and I both worked for J&J doing medical
> research in the La Jolla facility. We were told they were going to
> close the building. We were laid off with lots of other researchers
> there in 1994 and replaced with Chinese lower paid ones, using the
> H1-B visa program in a creative way. They built a new very large posh
> west-coast showcase research building instead of closing. We feel for
> you. Wish you luck. We have just started our empennage kit for our
RV-10.
> Brian and Ruth Preston
> #40666
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "ddddsp1@juno.com" <ddddsp1@juno.com>
>
> After seeing the success Deems had getting results with the
> CONTACTS on this list I thought I would give it a shot myself.
>
> After 13 years selling Pharmaceuticals for Johnson & Johnson I was
> laid off last week in a RIF (reduction in force). If anyone is
> hiring District, Regional, or National Sales Reps I would love to
> talk to you about the opportunity. I also have 6 years of Sales
> Management. Looking preferably in the Central Plains/Midwest but
> willl look at all opportunities. Why not, with an RV10 I can
> travel if I need too!
>
> I enjoy selling and hope to find another position in outside
> sales. If your company is looking or you know of successful
> companies that are seekings sales reps I would certainly
> appreciate the tip.
>
> Thanks,
>
> DEAN SOMBKE
>
> 40449
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
> *FREE* for 30 Days! - Holiday eCards from AmericanGreetings.com
> *Click HERE* and start sending today!
>
> <http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=197335&u=http://www.americangreetings.co
> m/index.pd?c=uol5637>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
Large broomstick and duck tape worked great. Used Vise Grips to turn rod.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
FWF, engine, wiring
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Reining
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 10:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder
--> <jonathan.w.reining@wellsfargo.com>
Les - I used some 1" OD steel pipe and match drilled holes in the pipe and
then clecoed the skin to the pipe - it worked great.
Jon Reining (with my dad Bill)
41514 - tailcone - still (need to get finished with this house remodel) do
not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85640#85640
--
--
Message 7
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Subject: | [Fwd: D2A announcement] |
I received the following from Dexter Turner Owner/Pres of Op Tech. Which
I'm am forwarding in the hope it might help/provide some relief to some
of the folks caught in this awful situation.
Best wishes
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Deems,
Youve probably heard along with everyone else about Direct2 closing
its doors. We just announced a January discount program to allow ex-D2A
customers to recover some or in some cases all of their losses and I was
wondering if you could post our announcement to the vans mailing list.
Thanks.
Dexter Turner
Op Technologies
(503) 690-0800 ext 29
cell (503) 553-9106
Message 8
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|
Well, we got sirius and hooked it up and I can't believe I been building
without this for over a year.
The quality of the sound sounds so different from land based VHF, it takes a
bit of getting used to.
Ain't technology something!!!!
Thanks to all who gave replys to the throttle and the XM vs Sirius. If I
end up needing XM for my Garmin in the future, at least I'll remember how I
first felt getting the service, it is worth it.
JOhn G.
Message 9
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Subject: | [Fwd: D2A announcement] |
I have already decided to go with OP Teck. However, I ordered my engine
probes back in Sept and with the help of Stein making numerous calls and
threats; I finally got them last week. My challenge to them is "Take care
of your current customers before you go looking for more of them that you
cannot 0r will not service in a timely manner.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 2:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: [Fwd: D2A announcement]
I received the following from Dexter Turner Owner/Pres of Op Tech. Which
I'm am forwarding in the hope it might help/provide some relief to some
of the folks caught in this awful situation.
Best wishes
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Deems,
You've probably heard along with everyone else about Direct2 closing
it's doors. We just announced a January discount program to allow ex-D2A
customers to recover some or in some cases all of their losses and I was
wondering if you could post our announcement to the vans mailing list.
Thanks.
Dexter Turner
Op Technologies
(503) 690-0800 ext 29
cell (503) 553-9106
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: [Fwd: D2A announcement] |
If I am not mistaken they (OPTECH) use the XBOW
420/425 AHRS. If you are happy with the XBOW then your cost to complete your
Chelton system can be relatively low. My calculations to complete a Chelton
system if you have your screens will be the 420/425 at a dealer cost of
$2800-3000 and a $250 dealer cost air data unit (EAU) from Grand Rapids
Technologies which D2A bought from GRT for delivery with their system if a
customer was not using the GRT Engine info system (EIS). Magnetometer and
GPS are integrated in the 420/425.
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: [Fwd: D2A announcement]
>
> I have already decided to go with OP Teck. However, I ordered my engine
> probes back in Sept and with the help of Stein making numerous calls and
> threats; I finally got them last week. My challenge to them is "Take care
> of your current customers before you go looking for more of them that you
> cannot 0r will not service in a timely manner.
> Gary
> 40274
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 2:45 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: [Fwd: D2A announcement]
>
> I received the following from Dexter Turner Owner/Pres of Op Tech. Which
> I'm am forwarding in the hope it might help/provide some relief to some
> of the folks caught in this awful situation.
>
> Best wishes
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> Deems,
>
> You've probably heard along with everyone else about Direct2 closing
> it's doors. We just announced a January discount program to allow ex-D2A
> customers to recover some or in some cases all of their losses and I was
> wondering if you could post our announcement to the vans mailing list.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dexter Turner
>
> Op Technologies
>
> (503) 690-0800 ext 29
>
> cell (503) 553-9106
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
Subject: | Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
I am about to roll my elevator leading edges. I "helped" Jacob down in
Griffin do the rudder using a wooden rod and duct tape. He's done more
than a few and we did it in a bit of a rush because I was ready to
leave. It turned out perfectly.
He suggested I take notes on what he uses for RV10 elevators.
For the inboard section - a 1" X 27" dowel
For the middle section - 1" x29"
outboard = 1" x 11"
He was very picky about the brand of duct tape (i.e. good quality but
don't have a name). Lot's of careful pressing and smoothing to insure
uniform adhesion.
Bill "2 hours of riveting away from prosealing the elevator trailing
edge and rolling the leading edge once I find a 1" wood rod" Watson
Marc & Kathy wrote:
> Les
>
> I used a 1" wood rod also. It was an industrial broom handle. I
> didn't the skin to it though. Instead, I used duct tape
> and over rolled it just a bit. Worked out great.
>
> Marc Hudson
> 560
>
> On Jan 5, 2007, at 11:40 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
>> Hmmm,
>>
>>
>>
>> Now that sounds like a wonderfully simple idea. I found with the
>> smaller diameter pipe and bending the edge after the rivet line made
>> things easier.
>>
>>
>>
>> It seems that there is a lot of stress on the holes as they are being
>> clecoed and match drilled. I wonder if a better solution (and less
>> stressful to the holes) would be to:
>>
>>
>>
>> 1. Drill the holes to size prior to rolling the edges
>>
>> 2. De-burr the holes
>>
>> 3. Bend the edges as required
>>
>> 4. Roll the edges
>>
>> 5. Clecoe the edges together
>>
>> 6. Install the Pop rivets
>>
>>
>>
>> I wonder if this would cause less deformation in the holes than
>> assembly, disassembly and then reassembly.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>>
>>
>> Les Kearney
>>
>> RV10 # 40643 Lost in the empennage.
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Reining
>> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 8:54 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator &
>> rudder
>>
>>
>>
>> <jonathan.w.reining@wellsfargo.com
>> <mailto:jonathan.w.reining@wellsfargo.com>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Les - I used some 1" OD steel pipe and match drilled holes in the
>> pipe and then clecoed the skin to the pipe - it worked great.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jon Reining (with my dad Bill)
>>
>> 41514 - tailcone - still (need to get finished with this house remodel)
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>>
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85640#85640
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> * - The RV10-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space"> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space"> --> http://forums.matronics.com*
>> *
>> *
> *
> *
> **
>
>
> **
Message 12
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|
Yep. I was enjoying the "black light/head phone" hour on XM's Deep
Tracks channel last night. Hope none of those rivets flew off into 70's
hyperspace. Wheeeee!
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> Well, we got sirius and hooked it up and I can't believe I been
> building without this for over a year.
>
> The quality of the sound sounds so different from land based VHF, it
> takes a bit of getting used to.
>
> Ain't technology something!!!!
>
> Thanks to all who gave replys to the throttle and the XM vs Sirius.
> If I end up needing XM for my Garmin in the future, at least I'll
> remember how I first felt getting the service, it is worth it.
>
> JOhn G.
>
>
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Cabin top too rough? |
Hey all -
I'm merrily going along trimming my cabin top to fit, and the further I
go, the more I wonder if other people's cabin tops are as rough as mine.
I don't know diddley about fiberglass just yet. I expect to do a lot
of smoothing, but is this ok? i've provided some pictures so you can
see what i'm talking about. The front pilot side door post is basically
a big blob of epoxy with lots of holes and voids. I think there's
plenty of fiberglass layers underneath that, but I'm no expert. I hear
people talking about having a hard time filling pin-holes in fiberglass
pieces, but my holes are more like nail holes. Am I having a normal
experience?
cj
#40410
fuse
Message 14
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|
Subject: | OT - What a nice day and aren't pilots great |
Durham NC: It was in the 70s today with a 10-15 knot breeze, deep blue
skies and scattered cu. Some non-aviation friends had scheduled a
mid-winter tandem jump at North Raleigh AP. We told them that we might
fly up and watch while thinking, "mid-winter jump??....brrrrrr".
Well it was an outrageously nice day so we flew up and just basked in
the sun. Jumpers climbed into the Casa 20 at a time and technicolor
polka dots broke out overhead every 45 minutes. Smiles were all
around. What a day it was.
When we first landed at the jump 'port, a pilot walked by and asked us
what kind of plane we were flying. Told him it was a Maule and we
exchanged pleasantries. I'm green with envy because I immediately know
this guy is flying the Casas and the twin DeHavillands, two aircraft
that fit my mind's eye like the small of my wife's back. I nonchalantly
acknowledge that he must be flying the jump planes while answering his
question abouts how long I've owned the Maule and whether I liked it.
Well, I'm a little embarrassed by the bounce and waggle I performed for
him during my crosswind landing but I know better than to mention it.
After all, I did the best I could given the conditions. I tell him I
used to fly gliders here but haven't been by in awhile.
He tells me that he has lots of time in a Thrush (turbo duster?), twin
tailed Beeches and other tailwheel stuff but now he's stuck flying these
tri-gear things.
As I walk away, I realize that we were both working hard to establish
some sort of credibility with each other, as if we needed too. Sort of
like 2 dogs giving each other a friendly sniff. The guy flies equipment
I can only dream of and I did a passable crosswind landing in a tough
spot with a tailwheel.
Isn't flying great?
Bill "just blew off 15mins of rivet time" Watson
Message 15
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|
Subject: | Cabin top too rough? |
Chris,
I'd recommend you send those pictures to Vans. There seems to be a lack
of fiberglass over the core (brown stuff). The lay-ups should not be that
rough, at least mine were not. Not something than can't be overcome, but
it's not quite right.
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 5:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top too rough?
Hey all -
I'm merrily going along trimming my cabin top to fit, and the further I go,
the more I wonder if other people's cabin tops are as rough as mine. I
don't know diddley about fiberglass just yet. I expect to do a lot of
smoothing, but is this ok? i've provided some pictures so you can see what
i'm talking about. The front pilot side door post is basically a big blob
of epoxy with lots of holes and voids. I think there's plenty of fiberglass
layers underneath that, but I'm no expert. I hear people talking about
having a hard time filling pin-holes in fiberglass pieces, but my holes are
more like nail holes. Am I having a normal experience?
cj
#40410
fuse
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Cabin top too rough? |
Chris, no pictures came through on my end.
Unfortunately your experience matches mine exactly!!!!!!! The interior
of the cabin cover looks like a relief map of the Himalayas. It took
HOURS and HOURS of sanding/ filing, filling, and repeat to get an
acceptable solution. If you are considering using an overhead
plenum/duct for air vents, lights etc, you can save a small amount of
that work. One lesson I learned (too late) was to avoid using Bondo as a
filler. While it has the advantage of 'setting up quickly to sandable
stage. Apparently it has a history of shrinking and opening up cracks.
Unfortunately the effects are not realized/seen for a couple of years.
Gary Spectecter put me on to 2 products that I'm using. Superfil , which
is an epoxy based filler with microbaloons already mixed, and Superprime
which is a primer/pinhole filler. The only downside to the SuperFil is
that it requires an 8 hr cure time vs the minutes for the auto body
fillers.
If you haven't started on your doors your in for more of the same. come
to think about it ALL of Van's fiberglass/composite parts require an
inordinate amount of time to get them to a finished stage with
acceptable appearance.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 17
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Subject: | Cabin top too rough? |
I agree it's rough, but the brown stuff in the picture is actually solid
epoxy or whatever. it's definitely not core material. I'm doubting
that vans will decide to replace a $4000 top, but maybe i'll send them
the pictures just for fun.
cj
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sat 1/6/2007 3:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin top too rough?
Chris,
I'd recommend you send those pictures to Vans. There seems to be a
lack
of fiberglass over the core (brown stuff). The lay-ups should not be
that
rough, at least mine were not. Not something than can't be overcome,
but
it's not quite right.
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 5:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top too rough?
Hey all -
I'm merrily going along trimming my cabin top to fit, and the further I
go,
the more I wonder if other people's cabin tops are as rough as mine. I
don't know diddley about fiberglass just yet. I expect to do a lot of
smoothing, but is this ok? i've provided some pictures so you can see
what
i'm talking about. The front pilot side door post is basically a big
blob
of epoxy with lots of holes and voids. I think there's plenty of
fiberglass
layers underneath that, but I'm no expert. I hear people talking about
having a hard time filling pin-holes in fiberglass pieces, but my holes
are
more like nail holes. Am I having a normal experience?
cj
#40410
fuse
Message 18
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Subject: | Cabin top too rough? |
Welcome to the wonderful world of Van's outsourced fiberglass work.
Functional but absolutely crap for workmanship. Mine still has a whole
bunch of vacuum bag stuck in between the folds of epoxy. One would
normally expect a mat in between the bag and the part to help absorb
excess resin but it doesn't look like they bothered on mine. I would
be embarrassed to let a part go out the door like the fiberglass parts
that Van's passes on to the customers. Not a new thing unfortunately,
so I wouldn't expect them to do anything about it.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 4:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top too rough?
Hey all -
I'm merrily going along trimming my cabin top to fit, and the further I
go, the more I wonder if other people's cabin tops are as rough as mine.
I don't know diddley about fiberglass just yet. I expect to do a lot of
smoothing, but is this ok? i've provided some pictures so you can see
what i'm talking about. The front pilot side door post is basically a
big blob of epoxy with lots of holes and voids. I think there's plenty
of fiberglass layers underneath that, but I'm no expert. I hear people
talking about having a hard time filling pin-holes in fiberglass pieces,
but my holes are more like nail holes. Am I having a normal experience?
cj
#40410
fuse
Message 19
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Subject: | The Chelton offer |
For those who paid their money to D2A directly or through a dealer and
were shorted equipment, Chelton will sell a dual display system with
Pinpoint GADAHRS components for addtional $10300. For those needing only
an AHRS, they will sell the Pinpoint GADAHRS components for an
additional $4000.
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Cabin top too rough? |
CJ,
The top is bad enough, but wait till you get to the doors! In addition to filling
and smooth voids, you have to work hard at the gap between the door and
the cabin top. Way too much work. The fiberglass is really in a rough stage.
Wish they could have made it a little better to save some time.
Zack
CJohnston(at)popsound.com wrote:
> Hey all -
>
> I'm merrily going along trimming my cabin top to fit, and the further I go, the
more I wonder if other people's cabin tops are as rough as mine. I don't know
diddley about fiberglass just yet. I expect to do a lot of smoothing, but
is this ok? i've provided some pictures so you can see what i'm talking about.
The front pilot side door post is basically a big blob of epoxy with lots
of holes and voids. I think there's plenty of fiberglass layers underneath that,
but I'm no expert. I hear people talking about having a hard time filling
pin-holes in fiberglass pieces, but my holes are more like nail holes. Am I
having a normal experience?
>
> cj
> #40410
> fuse
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85962#85962
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: The Chelton offer |
Here's the information direct from Chelton:
http://www.cheltonflightsystems.com/PDFs/CFS_D2A_Update.pdf
Tim
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
> For those who paid their money to D2A directly or through a dealer and
> were shorted equipment, Chelton will sell a dual display system with
> Pinpoint GADAHRS components for addtional $10300. For those needing only
> an AHRS, they will sell the Pinpoint GADAHRS components for an
> additional $4000.
>
> *
Message 22
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Subject: | Cabin top too rough? |
That looks pretty rough, especially around the lower corner of the doorway.
Van's may replace it or may just say that's what you get. We have not seen
any that bad. In fact, all of ours have been quite consistent and fairly
good quality. $4,000 is pretty high. Is that how much that things costs?
It is a pretty huge part. They would probably require you to pay shipping
one way, sending yours back, which might make it easier for you to just fix
the problems.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 5:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top too rough?
Hey all -
I'm merrily going along trimming my cabin top to fit, and the further I go,
the more I wonder if other people's cabin tops are as rough as mine. I
don't know diddley about fiberglass just yet. I expect to do a lot of
smoothing, but is this ok? i've provided some pictures so you can see what
i'm talking about. The front pilot side door post is basically a big blob
of epoxy with lots of holes and voids. I think there's plenty of fiberglass
layers underneath that, but I'm no expert. I hear people talking about
having a hard time filling pin-holes in fiberglass pieces, but my holes are
more like nail holes. Am I having a normal experience?
cj
#40410
fuse
Message 23
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Subject: | Adding Extra Holes in Center Bulkhead |
I need to add 2 additional holes in the vertical center bulkhead
channels (F1004 C&D) to pass the electrical wires through. I will be
adding a doubler to each channel. Is there a standard as to which side
the doubler should be added? The outside or inside.
Diagram
if "[" is the channel then
outside [ inside
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 24
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Gang,
Short summary, WOW, what a sense of accomplishment!
Flight was uneventful. D4A5 engine was healthy. Plane flew hands off. A fe
w pictures of the grin attached. Enjoy!
Keep pounding those rivets.
Anh
#141
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: N591VU Flies |
You the man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Congratulations.
Larry
#356
do not archive
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