Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:45 AM - Distance between Mains revisited (McGANN, Ron)
2. 03:53 AM - Re: Avionics fan (Tim Olson)
3. 03:59 AM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (gary)
4. 04:24 AM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (Jesse Saint)
5. 05:44 AM - Re: Derburring Rib Flange Slots (Steve Stella)
6. 06:22 AM - Re: Derburring Rib Flange Slots (MauleDriver)
7. 07:14 AM - Re: Avionics fan (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
8. 12:44 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (John W. Cox)
9. 01:00 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (Tom Deutsch)
10. 01:28 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (gary)
11. 01:41 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (BPA)
12. 01:48 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (John Gonzalez)
13. 01:56 PM - Fuel level sender installation on QB Wings (Michael Wellenzohn)
14. 01:58 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (John W. Cox)
15. 02:02 PM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (McGANN, Ron)
16. 02:02 PM - Re: Engine mount (Deems Davis)
17. 02:11 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
18. 02:11 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
19. 02:20 PM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (McGANN, Ron)
20. 02:24 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (John W. Cox)
21. 02:39 PM - Re: Engine mount (Randy DeBauw)
22. 02:39 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (Kelly McMullen)
23. 03:01 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (John W. Cox)
24. 03:17 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (Kelly McMullen)
25. 03:52 PM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (Jesse Saint)
26. 03:54 PM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (Jesse Saint)
27. 06:11 PM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (jerry petersen)
28. 08:15 PM - Stuff to order with the fuse kit. (Les Kearney)
29. 08:56 PM - Re: Stuff to order with the fuse kit. (John Gonzalez)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Distance between Mains revisited |
G'day all,
Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the
mains, engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread
last year about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door
width should be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing
identified as DWG 1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main
centres. I measured my door openings and they came in at 94" - no
problemo (me thinks). The bad news came tonight.
Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of
the mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*(
It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a
suggestion to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch
for that method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is
manouvered sideways through the door (rather than straight through) -
has anyone had any success?
Looking for the path of least resistance.
It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans.
not so cheery tonight
Ron
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics fan |
Ahhh, thanks for reminding me it was you, Dan, and sorry Jesse. :)
I've got the green slime headcold this week so I'm not
really focused on anything I'm doing. Good thing it's not
time for me to be assembling the plane. :)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Wow, I am glad that got clarified. I didn't remember writing about the
> avionics fan, although I did think about it and agree with Tim (Tim, you can
> still include me in that "we" even if I didn't reply). I may have written,
> but don't remember. Now I am trying to figure out what flange thing I wrote
> about. Man, this list sure keeps me on my toes. I hope it was a good post.
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting |
I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air
induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting
I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2
bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on
the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure
if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said
the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported
his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system
which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat
from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful.
He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines
where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since
of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something
hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount
is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2
hour and he'd return it as soon as possible.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rob Wright wrote:
>
>Deems, what went wrong with your mount, or do you have a close tolerance a
>la Tim O?
>
>Rob Wright
>#392
>Engine mount on horizon
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 5:29 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting
>
>
>Thanks to all who provided leads and contact info re this topic I've got
>a few more days work to finish off the CAD files, but I think I've got
>enough leads to get something worked out.
>THANKS Again
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>http://deemsrv10.com/ -
>
>waiting on engine mount fix to hang engine
>
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Distance between Mains revisited |
I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a little.
The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for the
wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit in.
Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to the
side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get the
other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the plane
out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an inch or
two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need another
half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you for
just half and inch.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
G'day all,
Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the mains,
engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last year
about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width should
be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as DWG
1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured my
door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The bad
news came tonight.
Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of the
mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*(
It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a suggestion
to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that
method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is manouvered
sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone had
any success?
Looking for the path of least resistance.
It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans.
not so cheery tonight
Ron
Message 5
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| Subject: | Derburring Rib Flange Slots |
I was able to use a scotchbrite wheel from the outside of the slot to get
most of it, then I used the pads to finish it off.
Steve Stella
40654 Emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of arthurww
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 4:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Derburring Rib Flange Slots
Looked at the ribs for the VS last night.
Alot of head scratching... how on earth am I supposed
to deburr those flange slots?
How have you done it?
Can anyone point me towards that magic tool?
Regards
Arthur
--------
#40641 EMP
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86619#86619
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010007_275.jpg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Derburring Rib Flange Slots |
I think we only hit the outside and touched up the inside with the pad -
it's been awhile.
Since then, I tried the various powered mini-wheels and pad holders but
it looks like John G's nail file pads are the ticket. You definitely
want a couple of those in the tool box.
Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote:
> I do that to the outside... you get the inside?
>
> On 1/9/07, *MauleDriver* <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com
> <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>
>
> I learned from the folks at the Alexander Tech Center to do it
> with the
> scotchbrite wheels. Not pretty but fast and effective. Don't
> know how
> I would explain it though. I'm curious what others do too.
>
> arthurww wrote:
> <mailto:arthur@cftech.co.uk>>
> >
> > Looked at the ribs for the VS last night.
> >
> > Alot of head scratching... how on earth am I supposed
> > to deburr those flange slots?
> > How have you done it?
> >
> > Can anyone point me towards that magic tool?
> > Regards
> > Arthur
> >
>
Message 7
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My comment was tongue in cheek, because the real importance is not who
posted it, rather that it was posted so that everyone will be able to
know about it. I do not like when people play the I have a secret thing,
and the thing I like best about the list is the free sharing of idea's.
Fuse interior is getting painted this week, and final install of
everything begins. At least I hope that is what is happening.
Dan
N289DT (RV10E)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Avionics fan
Ahhh, thanks for reminding me it was you, Dan, and sorry Jesse. :)
I've got the green slime headcold this week so I'm not
really focused on anything I'm doing. Good thing it's not
time for me to be assembling the plane. :)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Wow, I am glad that got clarified. I didn't remember writing about
the
> avionics fan, although I did think about it and agree with Tim (Tim,
you can
> still include me in that "we" even if I didn't reply). I may have
written,
> but don't remember. Now I am trying to figure out what flange thing I
wrote
> about. Man, this list sure keeps me on my toes. I hope it was a good
post.
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting |
Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would
anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance
corrected by a properly modified engine mount?
Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will
Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am
waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first generation
"non modified" variety.
On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their
engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety
being passed over by the reading audience.
John Cox
(back from CES '2007)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary
Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
cutting
I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air
induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
cutting
I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2
bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on
the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure
if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said
the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported
his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system
which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat
from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful.
He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines
where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since
of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something
hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount
is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2
hour and he'd return it as soon as possible.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Seat adjustment lever |
I have ordered a set to these seat adjustment levers and one broke on
first test use. They have a week spot where the lever attached to the
lift pin for the seat adjustment. I sent it back to Greg, with no
questions asked he acknowledged the problem, designed a fix and sent me
a new set. I haven't tried the new ones yet but they look much better.
Just be sure not to lift the handle too far and advise your passengers
not to either.
It's great to work with people like Greg.
Tom Deutsch, #40545
Office 913 451-1222
Fax 913 451-6493
Cell 913 908-7752
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim &
Julie Wade
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 6:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
<jwadejr@hughes.net>
This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to
busy trying to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good
design. So much better that having to reach beside the seat and pull the
lever. Here is his website, check it out for yourself.
http://www.nwacaptain.com/
Blue Skies
Jim
40383
DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549
Message 10
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| Subject: | Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting |
OK for you inquiring minds. BPA suggested grinding off the fins to fit the
mount. BPA sump has very tall fins for cooling on it and it does not hurt
it to grind off some for clearance.
Vans won't talk to us BPA users because we are "Hot Roders". They told me
I was on my own on that. Wonderful Aircraft and for the most part a good
company, but sometimes they just drive you nuts.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting
Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would anyone
grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance corrected by
a properly modified engine mount?
Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will Deems'
be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am waiting with
anticipation to hear that his mount was a first generation "non modified"
variety.
On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their engine
components? This might just be an important point on Safety being passed
over by the reading audience.
John Cox
(back from CES '2007)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary
Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting
I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air
induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting
I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2
bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on
the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure
if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said
the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported
his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system
which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat
from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful.
He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines
where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since
of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something
hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount
is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2
hour and he'd return it as soon as possible.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 11
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| Subject: | Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting |
John,
The area of the sump that seems to be causing interference issues on
some of the RV-10 mounts are fins on the bottom of the sump in the very
rear under the oil pickup on the casting. These fins are there for no
particular reason other than aesthetics (looks cool). On the first
couple of sumps that we supplied for the RV-10's with this interference
problem, we used a die grinder and removed the fins without getting into
the 'meat' or integral part of the sump. Tim had a fit issue with the
standard sump and Van's determined that there may be slight differences
in the PMA sump based most likely on vendor changes, and modified his
mount. We've seen this as well on other components. From what I gathered
through the RV-10 list the original design was modified to accept these
variances. As it turns out, this may not be the case.
There is no reason, safety wise that the fins cannot be removed for
clearance purposes. A better solution in my opinion would be to change
the bar on the bottom of the mount. This can be done by the vendor that
supplies the mounts to Van's, or I have a contact here in Oklahoma who
will gladly do the work.
Regards,
Allen Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
www.barretprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
cutting
Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would
anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance
corrected by a properly modified engine mount?
Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will
Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am
waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first generation
"non modified" variety.
On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their
engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety
being passed over by the reading audience.
John Cox
(back from CES '2007)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary
Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
cutting
I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air
induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
cutting
I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2
bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on
the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure
if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said
the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported
his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system
which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat
from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful.
He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines
where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since
of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something
hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount
is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2
hour and he'd return it as soon as possible.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 12
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| Subject: | Seat adjustment lever |
Incorrect engine mount bolts, an engine mount that doesn't leave enough
space for the engine and now a seat adjustment lever which breaks off.
Hey Deems, what movie did you end up seeing the other night.
John Cox, I am not passing over a safety issue, just hoping to install a
different engine. Unfortunately can't change the seats out. I am a little
perplexed about why this stuff is happening.
JOhn G.
>From: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
>Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 14:58:09 -0600
>
>
>I have ordered a set to these seat adjustment levers and one broke on
>first test use. They have a week spot where the lever attached to the
>lift pin for the seat adjustment. I sent it back to Greg, with no
>questions asked he acknowledged the problem, designed a fix and sent me
>a new set. I haven't tried the new ones yet but they look much better.
>Just be sure not to lift the handle too far and advise your passengers
>not to either.
>
>It's great to work with people like Greg.
>
>Tom Deutsch, #40545
>
>Office 913 451-1222
>Fax 913 451-6493
>Cell 913 908-7752
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim &
>Julie Wade
>Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 6:21 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
>
><jwadejr@hughes.net>
>
>This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to
>busy trying to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good
>design. So much better that having to reach beside the seat and pull the
>lever. Here is his website, check it out for yourself.
>http://www.nwacaptain.com/
>
>Blue Skies
>Jim
>40383
>DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!!
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fuel level sender installation on QB Wings |
Hello,
for those who chose QB wings do you know a "sophisticated" way to proberly ajust
the fuel level sender in the tank.
I feel like I would need to bend the lever by chance in a direction and try if
it clears the vent line. I use the multimeter to measure the travel but I cant
see what stops it to go all the way up.
Thanks
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86813#86813
Message 14
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| Subject: | Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting |
Thanks for the reply. Grinding can induce microscopic fractures. In
school we had to Dye-Pen the work to confirm acceptance and no cracks.
At work, we just yell for an NDT specialist to get off their butt and
co-sign our artwork (its a little more complex than that actually). My
partner in school thought he would be cute and sand blasted it which
effectively hid the cracks. It was nearly a failure of the class for
failing to willfully not following approved Lycoming procedures.
I am a supporter of sound mods. Am guessing you have escaped the
"Golden BB" on this one.
For those who read these posts, I hope the exercise was of value.
My solution, find an approved and certified aircraft welder of 4130 and
make the mount correct. It sure seems we get shoe-horned into a tight
pair at times. Now how lucky was Deem's to get Scott in a gracious
moment to send it back to VANS for his BPA hot rod to get it done right
at the source. Could there be a safety mod in the wind for us Slow
Bloomers?
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary
Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 1:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
cutting
OK for you inquiring minds. BPA suggested grinding off the fins to fit
the mount. BPA sump has very tall fins for cooling on it and it does
not hurt it to grind off some for clearance.
Vans won't talk to us BPA users because we are "Hot Roders". They
told me I was on my own on that. Wonderful Aircraft and for the most
part a good company, but sometimes they just drive you nuts.
Gary
40274
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
cutting
Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would
anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance
corrected by a properly modified engine mount?
Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will
Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am
waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first generation
"non modified" variety.
On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their
engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety
being passed over by the reading audience.
John Cox
(back from CES '2007)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary
Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
cutting
I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air
induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
cutting
I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2
bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on
the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure
if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said
the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported
his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system
which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat
from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful.
He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines
where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since
of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something
hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount
is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2
hour and he'd return it as soon as possible.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 15
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| Subject: | Distance between Mains revisited |
Thanks Jesse, I'll give one/both methods a try. I have removed the 'do
not arch...' from your response below - there is waaaay too much useful
info that is excluded from the archives.
cheers
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wed 10/01/2007 22:54
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a
little.
The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for
the
wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit
in.
Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to
the
side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get
the
other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the
plane
out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an
inch or
two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need
another
half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you
for
just half and inch.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
G'day all,
Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the
mains,
engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last
year
about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width
should
be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as
DWG
1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured
my
door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The
bad
news came tonight.
Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of
the
mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*(
It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a
suggestion
to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that
method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is
manouvered
sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone
had
any success?
Looking for the path of least resistance.
It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans.
not so cheery tonight
Ron
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount |
When I talked to Van's, I told Scott Risan that my engine was an
experimental Lycoming built by BPE and Scott said that he knew "that
those guys in OKLA cast there own sumps". It didn't seem to be an issue
with him. Scott was EXTREMELY helpful, offered to pay the shipping. (I
agreed to split it with him). I didn't think that grinding the rear of
the fins would have given me the clearance I wanted/needed.With the fins
ground, I _might_ have been able to get it hung and to get the upper
mount/bolts in, but the clearance with the cross member would have been
too tight to provide peace of mind for the engine settling when the
mounts compress over time.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
gary wrote:
> OK for you inquiring minds. BPA suggested grinding off the fins to fit
> the mount. BPA sump has very tall fins for cooling on it and it does
> not hurt it to grind off some for clearance.
>
> Vans wont talk to us BPA users because we are Hot Roders. They told
> me I was on my own on that. Wonderful Aircraft and for the most part a
> good company, but sometimes they just drive you nuts.
>
> Gary
>
> 40274
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John W. Cox
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:44 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
> cutting
>
> Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would
> anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance
> corrected by a properly modified engine mount?
>
> Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will
> Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am
> waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first
> generation "non modified" variety.
>
> On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their
> engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety
> being passed over by the reading audience.
>
> John Cox
>
> (back from CES '2007)
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary
> *Sent:* Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
> cutting
>
>
> I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air
> induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with.
> Gary
> 40274
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
> cutting
>
>
> I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2
> bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on
> the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure
> if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said
> the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported
> his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system
> which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat
> from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful.
> He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines
> where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since
> of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something
> hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount
> is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2
> hour and he'd return it as soon as possible.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Seat adjustment lever |
The seat has a modification from the factory. There is nothing wrong
with the seats as delivered, it is when you modify them and extend the
lever out front that there is an issue.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 4:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Incorrect engine mount bolts, an engine mount that doesn't leave enough
space for the engine and now a seat adjustment lever which breaks off.
Hey Deems, what movie did you end up seeing the other night.
John Cox, I am not passing over a safety issue, just hoping to install a
different engine. Unfortunately can't change the seats out. I am a
little
perplexed about why this stuff is happening.
JOhn G.
>From: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
>Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 14:58:09 -0600
>
>
>I have ordered a set to these seat adjustment levers and one broke on
>first test use. They have a week spot where the lever attached to the
>lift pin for the seat adjustment. I sent it back to Greg, with no
>questions asked he acknowledged the problem, designed a fix and sent me
>a new set. I haven't tried the new ones yet but they look much better.
>Just be sure not to lift the handle too far and advise your passengers
>not to either.
>
>It's great to work with people like Greg.
>
>Tom Deutsch, #40545
>
>Office 913 451-1222
>Fax 913 451-6493
>Cell 913 908-7752
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim &
>Julie Wade
>Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 6:21 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
>
><jwadejr@hughes.net>
>
>This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to
>busy trying to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good
>design. So much better that having to reach beside the seat and pull
the
>lever. Here is his website, check it out for yourself.
>http://www.nwacaptain.com/
>
>Blue Skies
>Jim
>40383
>DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!!
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Seat adjustment lever |
I also have these on order can you verify if they are hollow 1/2" tube
or solid bar stock?
THX
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Deutsch
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
I have ordered a set to these seat adjustment levers and one broke on
first test use. They have a week spot where the lever attached to the
lift pin for the seat adjustment. I sent it back to Greg, with no
questions asked he acknowledged the problem, designed a fix and sent me
a new set. I haven't tried the new ones yet but they look much better.
Just be sure not to lift the handle too far and advise your passengers
not to either.
It's great to work with people like Greg.
Tom Deutsch, #40545
Office 913 451-1222
Fax 913 451-6493
Cell 913 908-7752
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim &
Julie Wade
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 6:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
<jwadejr@hughes.net>
This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to
busy trying to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good
design. So much better that having to reach beside the seat and pull the
lever. Here is his website, check it out for yourself.
http://www.nwacaptain.com/
Blue Skies
Jim
40383
DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549
Message 19
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| Subject: | Distance between Mains revisited |
Thanks Jesse, I'll give one/both methods a try. I have removed the 'do
not arch...' from your response below - there is waaaay too much useful
info that is excluded from the archives.
cheers
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wed 10/01/2007 22:54
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a
little.
The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for
the
wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit
in.
Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to
the
side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get
the
other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the
plane
out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an
inch or
two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need
another
half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you
for
just half and inch.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
G'day all,
Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the
mains,
engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last
year
about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width
should
be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as
DWG
1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured
my
door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The
bad
news came tonight.
Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of
the
mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*(
It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a
suggestion
to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that
method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is
manouvered
sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone
had
any success?
Looking for the path of least resistance.
It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans.
not so cheery tonight
Ron
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Seat adjustment lever |
Word from another more advanced builder (EH) was they are just too
swamped at VANS to make the simple mods. That's good news for
everyone... Right? In their defense, they are alway (well almost)
willing to help builders complete a safe and exciting aircraft. You
would not understand what hoops they have to jump through.
Having written FAA Approved training manuals and finding a single word
in the regs that was written incorrectly, I learned that it took two
years and $400,000 to change published documents into the correct
legaleze. ONE SINGLE WORD. No one likes a reality check.
Just wait until carbon fiber replacement canopies with close tolerance
door fitment, wingtips that fit the first time, aerodynamic wheelpants
with 30% less frontal area and speed fairings are offered - After
market. Just like the Wholly Cowl, if you build an improved product, a
properly functioning marketplace will wear a grooved path to your door.
It is all about market driven QC. Make it better, make it safer, make
it quicker, make it cheaper, make it easy to locate. Then tell Tim
about it. This list has been instrumental in moving the mountain one
yard at a time in the best of all directions. Towards safe flight.
John G, I have a record with several builders of helping with those
Alternate engines choices. I even foster passion for a new engine cowl
which will tackle other Lycoming variants. Just make sure the quality
or safety is not compromised in the pursuit of improvement. Keep us
informed. On the seat handle issue, I know Mike Dennis and he will not
leave testing and product improvement to sit idle. Tell Oregon Aeroa
about Greg Hales mousetrap.
John c.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 1:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Incorrect engine mount bolts, an engine mount that doesn't leave enough
space for the engine and now a seat adjustment lever which breaks off.
Hey Deems, what movie did you end up seeing the other night.
John Cox, I am not passing over a safety issue, just hoping to install a
different engine. Unfortunately can't change the seats out. I am a
little
perplexed about why this stuff is happening.
JOhn G.
>From: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever
>Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 14:58:09 -0600
>
>
>I have ordered a set to these seat adjustment levers and one broke on
>first test use. They have a week spot where the lever attached to the
>lift pin for the seat adjustment. I sent it back to Greg, with no
>questions asked he acknowledged the problem, designed a fix and sent me
>a new set. I haven't tried the new ones yet but they look much better.
>Just be sure not to lift the handle too far and advise your passengers
>not to either.
>
>It's great to work with people like Greg.
>
>Tom Deutsch, #40545
>
>Office 913 451-1222
>Fax 913 451-6493
>Cell 913 908-7752
Message 21
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|
Just to let everyone know, I talked to the guy at Van's that welds the
engine mounts. They are made in house. I asked about the bar hitting on
Tim's and he said that the bar was an after thought for some added
strength. He said it could have gone anywhere between the two down
tubes. On the 220RV it cleared just fine and on my engine that I bought
used and had rebuilt if fit fine. He did say that they had moved the
bar down and shouldn't be a problem any more if you have a pan like
Tim's. Well it looks like they may have to move it again. Randy 40006
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount
When I talked to Van's, I told Scott Risan that my engine was an
experimental Lycoming built by BPE and Scott said that he knew "that
those guys in OKLA cast there own sumps". It didn't seem to be an issue
with him. Scott was EXTREMELY helpful, offered to pay the shipping. (I
agreed to split it with him). I didn't think that grinding the rear of
the fins would have given me the clearance I wanted/needed.With the fins
ground, I _might_ have been able to get it hung and to get the upper
mount/bolts in, but the clearance with the cross member would have been
too tight to provide peace of mind for the engine settling when the
mounts compress over time.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
gary wrote:
> OK for you inquiring minds. BPA suggested grinding off the fins to fit
> the mount. BPA sump has very tall fins for cooling on it and it does
> not hurt it to grind off some for clearance.
>
> Vans won't talk to us BPA users because we are "Hot Roders". They told
> me I was on my own on that. Wonderful Aircraft and for the most part a
> good company, but sometimes they just drive you nuts.
>
> Gary
>
> 40274
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John W.
Cox
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:44 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
> cutting
>
> Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would
> anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance
> corrected by a properly modified engine mount?
>
> Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will
> Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am
> waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first
> generation "non modified" variety.
>
> On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their
> engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety
> being passed over by the reading audience.
>
> John Cox
>
> (back from CES '2007)
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary
> *Sent:* Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
> cutting
>
>
> I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air
> induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with.
> Gary
> 40274
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
> cutting
>
>
> I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2
> bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on
> the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not
sure
> if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's
said
> the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim
reported
> his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system
> which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies
somewhat
> from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY
helpful.
> He said that after the change they made they had reports of some
engines
> where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident
since
> of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something
> hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The
mount
> is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2
> hour and he'd return it as soon as possible.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting |
What's your target now John? Osh 2020? or Copperstate 2015?
On 1/10/07, John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
Could there be a safety mod in the wind for us Slow Bloomers?
>
> John
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting |
I retire officially in 2014 so I go onto Deem's schedule then. I am
having too much fun helping other builders through the briar patch to
accelerate the pace much. There is always Rob Hickman or John Jessen to
set pace with locally.
And Kelly... while you are at it what is your build number and pace for
the audience?
John - #600
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet
cutting
What's your target now John? Osh 2020? or Copperstate 2015?
On 1/10/07, John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
Could there be a safety mod in the wind for us Slow Bloomers?
>
> John
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting |
# XXXX, potential start date around the end of the year. Like you,
retirement is still down the road, and way too much work to do on my
Mooney and helping other plane owners. Sounds like my Copperstate 2015
wasn't too far off, eh? 8^)
Maybe I'll be right there with you.
On 1/10/07, John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
> I retire officially in 2014 so I go onto Deem's schedule then. I am having too
much fun helping other builders through the briar patch to accelerate the pace
much. There is always Rob Hickman or John Jessen to set pace with locally.
>
> And Kelly... while you are at it what is your build number and pace for the audience?
>
> John - #600
> Do not Archive
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 2:39 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting
>
>
>
> What's your target now John? Osh 2020? or Copperstate 2015?
>
> On 1/10/07, John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
> Could there be a safety mod in the wind for us Slow Bloomers?
> >
> > John
> >
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Distance between Mains revisited |
Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I still read the "Do not archive."
fully at the bottom of my previous post.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 4:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
Thanks Jesse, I'll give one/both methods a try. I have removed the 'do not
arch...' from your response below - there is waaaay too much useful info
that is excluded from the archives.
cheers
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wed 10/01/2007 22:54
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a little.
The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for the
wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit in.
Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to the
side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get the
other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the plane
out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an inch or
two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need another
half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you for
just half and inch.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
G'day all,
Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the mains,
engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last year
about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width should
be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as DWG
1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured my
door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The bad
news came tonight.
Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of the
mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*(
It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a suggestion
to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that
method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is manouvered
sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone had
any success?
Looking for the path of least resistance.
It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans.
not so cheery tonight
Ron
Message 26
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| Subject: | Distance between Mains revisited |
I gotcha now. I guess we both had a chance to double post and clog
cyberspace with useless e-mail.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 5:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
Thanks Jesse, I'll give one/both methods a try. I have removed the 'do not
arch...' from your response below - there is waaaay too much useful info
that is excluded from the archives.
cheers
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wed 10/01/2007 22:54
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a little.
The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for the
wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit in.
Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to the
side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get the
other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the plane
out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an inch or
two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need another
half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you for
just half and inch.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
G'day all,
Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the mains,
engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last year
about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width should
be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as DWG
1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured my
door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The bad
news came tonight.
Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of the
mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*(
It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a suggestion
to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that
method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is manouvered
sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone had
any success?
Looking for the path of least resistance.
It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans.
not so cheery tonight
Ron
Message 27
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| Subject: | Distance between Mains revisited |
Sounds like you could get by by removing one main
wheel and devising a teporary caster wheel or slide to
get it out the door and remount the main. We had to
get ours lower and narrower to get it out the door and
divised a temporary axle inside the hollow portion of
the main gear and put a small wheel on it. Lots of
ways to do it. Good luck.
Jerry
--- "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Jesse, I'll give one/both methods a try. I
> have removed the 'do not arch...' from your response
> below - there is waaaay too much useful info that is
> excluded from the archives.
>
> cheers
> Ron
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf
> of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Wed 10/01/2007 22:54
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains
> revisited
>
> <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it
> off to the side a little.
> The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container
> (without the rods for the
> wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be
> turned a little to fit in.
> Getting out of the garage door should not be too
> hard if you turn it to the
> side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it
> over a little to get the
> other out. Either or both of these methods should
> help you get the plane
> out without taking it off the gear. You will save a
> max of maybe an inch or
> two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks
> like you only need another
> half an inch. I think one of the above methods
> should take care of you for
> just half and inch.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited
>
> G'day all,
>
> Significant progress over the holidays has seen
> installation of the mains,
> engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I
> remember a thread last year
> about distance between the mains and comments that
> an 8' door width should
> be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic
> drawing identified as DWG
> 1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main
> centres. I measured my
> door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo
> (me thinks). The bad
> news came tonight.
>
> Because of the camber, the maximum distance between
> the outside edges of the
> mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear).
> !@#$%^&*(
>
> It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have
> also read a suggestion
> to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can
> anyone vouch for that
> method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will
> fit if it is manouvered
> sideways through the door (rather than straight
> through) - has anyone had
> any success?
>
> Looking for the path of least resistance.
>
> It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL
> measurements with their plans.
>
> not so cheery tonight
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Stuff to order with the fuse kit. |
Hi
I just received notification from Van's that my fuse kit (slow build)
will
ship in early Feb. Is there anything I should be ordering from Van's as
well? As I am doing QB wings, Van's advised that I need the wing center
section so I have that covered. I have also ordered the RV10 flap
positioner
kit.
I thought I might order 25' of plastic conduit for the fuse wiring as
well.
Should I get the strobe kit now or wait? All suggestions gratefully
accepted.
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
Message 29
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| Subject: | Stuff to order with the fuse kit. |
Get the fifty feet of conduit and save yourself a second shipping bill and
handling fee.
John G. 409
>From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Stuff to order with the fuse kit.
>Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 21:13:34 -0700
>
>Hi
>
>
>I just received notification from Van's that my fuse kit (slow build) will
>ship in early Feb. Is there anything I should be ordering from Van's as
>well? As I am doing QB wings, Van's advised that I need the wing center
>section so I have that covered. I have also ordered the RV10 flap
>positioner
>kit.
>
>
>I thought I might order 25' of plastic conduit for the fuse wiring as well.
>Should I get the strobe kit now or wait? All suggestions gratefully
>accepted.
>
>
>Inquiring minds need to know...
>
>
>Les Kearney
>
>RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Fuel level sender installation on QB Wings |
Michael,
We have just done that step. One side required no adjustment but the
other
needed to have the float offset about half an inch.
Here's what we eventually did that worked well for us on the one we had
to
adjust:-
* Mark on the skin where the rib is
* Remove the sender and hold it parallel with the tank face and
in
line with the hole. Have the float resting on the skin outside the hole.
* Note how far it has to be moved to fit between the rib and the
breather tube
* Hold the float wire in a vice between two pieces of wood and
bend
a =91dog leg=92 into the relevant straight piece to move the float
sideways as
much as you need and keep it parallel to where it originally was
* Make sure the original right angle bends are retained at right
angles otherwise the float will not move in the one plane
I hope this is of some use,
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Thursday, 11 January 2007 8:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel level sender installation on QB Wings
<michael@wellenzohn.net>
Hello,
for those who chose QB wings do you know a "sophisticated" way to
proberly
ajust the fuel level sender in the tank.
I feel like I would need to bend the lever by chance in a direction and
try
if it clears the vent line. I use the multimeter to measure the travel
but I
can=C2=B4t see what stops it to go all the way up.
Thanks
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86813#86813
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