---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 01/10/07: 29 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:45 AM - Distance between Mains revisited (McGANN, Ron) 2. 03:53 AM - Re: Avionics fan (Tim Olson) 3. 03:59 AM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (gary) 4. 04:24 AM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (Jesse Saint) 5. 05:44 AM - Re: Derburring Rib Flange Slots (Steve Stella) 6. 06:22 AM - Re: Derburring Rib Flange Slots (MauleDriver) 7. 07:14 AM - Re: Avionics fan (Lloyd, Daniel R.) 8. 12:44 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (John W. Cox) 9. 01:00 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (Tom Deutsch) 10. 01:28 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (gary) 11. 01:41 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (BPA) 12. 01:48 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (John Gonzalez) 13. 01:56 PM - Fuel level sender installation on QB Wings (Michael Wellenzohn) 14. 01:58 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (John W. Cox) 15. 02:02 PM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (McGANN, Ron) 16. 02:02 PM - Re: Engine mount (Deems Davis) 17. 02:11 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (Lloyd, Daniel R.) 18. 02:11 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (Lloyd, Daniel R.) 19. 02:20 PM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (McGANN, Ron) 20. 02:24 PM - Re: Seat adjustment lever (John W. Cox) 21. 02:39 PM - Re: Engine mount (Randy DeBauw) 22. 02:39 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (Kelly McMullen) 23. 03:01 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (John W. Cox) 24. 03:17 PM - Re: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting (Kelly McMullen) 25. 03:52 PM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (Jesse Saint) 26. 03:54 PM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (Jesse Saint) 27. 06:11 PM - Re: Distance between Mains revisited (jerry petersen) 28. 08:15 PM - Stuff to order with the fuse kit. (Les Kearney) 29. 08:56 PM - Re: Stuff to order with the fuse kit. (John Gonzalez) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:45:30 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited From: "McGANN, Ron" G'day all, Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the mains, engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last year about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width should be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as DWG 1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured my door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The bad news came tonight. Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of the mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*( It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a suggestion to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is manouvered sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone had any success? Looking for the path of least resistance. It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans. not so cheery tonight Ron ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:53:10 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Avionics fan Ahhh, thanks for reminding me it was you, Dan, and sorry Jesse. :) I've got the green slime headcold this week so I'm not really focused on anything I'm doing. Good thing it's not time for me to be assembling the plane. :) Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Jesse Saint wrote: > > Wow, I am glad that got clarified. I didn't remember writing about the > avionics fan, although I did think about it and agree with Tim (Tim, you can > still include me in that "we" even if I didn't reply). I may have written, > but don't remember. Now I am trying to figure out what flange thing I wrote > about. Man, this list sure keeps me on my toes. I hope it was a good post. > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:59:44 AM PST US From: "gary" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with. Gary 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2 bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful. He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2 hour and he'd return it as soon as possible. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ Rob Wright wrote: > >Deems, what went wrong with your mount, or do you have a close tolerance a >la Tim O? > >Rob Wright >#392 >Engine mount on horizon > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis >Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 5:29 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting > > >Thanks to all who provided leads and contact info re this topic I've got >a few more days work to finish off the CAD files, but I think I've got >enough leads to get something worked out. >THANKS Again > >Deems Davis # 406 >Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) >http://deemsrv10.com/ - > >waiting on engine mount fix to hang engine > > >Do Not Archive > > > > >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:24:48 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a little. The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for the wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit in. Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to the side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get the other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the plane out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an inch or two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need another half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you for just half and inch. Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited G'day all, Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the mains, engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last year about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width should be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as DWG 1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured my door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The bad news came tonight. Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of the mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*( It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a suggestion to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is manouvered sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone had any success? Looking for the path of least resistance. It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans. not so cheery tonight Ron ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:44:23 AM PST US From: "Steve Stella" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Derburring Rib Flange Slots I was able to use a scotchbrite wheel from the outside of the slot to get most of it, then I used the pads to finish it off. Steve Stella 40654 Emp -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of arthurww Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 4:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Derburring Rib Flange Slots Looked at the ribs for the VS last night. Alot of head scratching... how on earth am I supposed to deburr those flange slots? How have you done it? Can anyone point me towards that magic tool? Regards Arthur -------- #40641 EMP Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86619#86619 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010007_275.jpg ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:22:36 AM PST US From: MauleDriver Subject: Re: RV10-List: Derburring Rib Flange Slots I think we only hit the outside and touched up the inside with the pad - it's been awhile. Since then, I tried the various powered mini-wheels and pad holders but it looks like John G's nail file pads are the ticket. You definitely want a couple of those in the tool box. Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote: > I do that to the outside... you get the inside? > > On 1/9/07, *MauleDriver* > wrote: > > > > > I learned from the folks at the Alexander Tech Center to do it > with the > scotchbrite wheels. Not pretty but fast and effective. Don't > know how > I would explain it though. I'm curious what others do too. > > arthurww wrote: > > > > > > Looked at the ribs for the VS last night. > > > > Alot of head scratching... how on earth am I supposed > > to deburr those flange slots? > > How have you done it? > > > > Can anyone point me towards that magic tool? > > Regards > > Arthur > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:14:57 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Avionics fan From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." My comment was tongue in cheek, because the real importance is not who posted it, rather that it was posted so that everyone will be able to know about it. I do not like when people play the I have a secret thing, and the thing I like best about the list is the free sharing of idea's. Fuse interior is getting painted this week, and final install of everything begins. At least I hope that is what is happening. Dan N289DT (RV10E) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:54 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Avionics fan Ahhh, thanks for reminding me it was you, Dan, and sorry Jesse. :) I've got the green slime headcold this week so I'm not really focused on anything I'm doing. Good thing it's not time for me to be assembling the plane. :) Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Jesse Saint wrote: > > Wow, I am glad that got clarified. I didn't remember writing about the > avionics fan, although I did think about it and agree with Tim (Tim, you can > still include me in that "we" even if I didn't reply). I may have written, > but don't remember. Now I am trying to figure out what flange thing I wrote > about. Man, this list sure keeps me on my toes. I hope it was a good post. > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 12:44:24 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting From: "John W. Cox" Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance corrected by a properly modified engine mount? Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first generation "non modified" variety. On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety being passed over by the reading audience. John Cox (back from CES '2007) ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with. Gary 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2 bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful. He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2 hour and he'd return it as soon as possible. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 01:00:38 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever From: "Tom Deutsch" I have ordered a set to these seat adjustment levers and one broke on first test use. They have a week spot where the lever attached to the lift pin for the seat adjustment. I sent it back to Greg, with no questions asked he acknowledged the problem, designed a fix and sent me a new set. I haven't tried the new ones yet but they look much better. Just be sure not to lift the handle too far and advise your passengers not to either. It's great to work with people like Greg. Tom Deutsch, #40545 Office 913 451-1222 Fax 913 451-6493 Cell 913 908-7752 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Julie Wade Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 6:21 AM Subject: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to busy trying to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good design. So much better that having to reach beside the seat and pull the lever. Here is his website, check it out for yourself. http://www.nwacaptain.com/ Blue Skies Jim 40383 DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 01:28:48 PM PST US From: "gary" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting OK for you inquiring minds. BPA suggested grinding off the fins to fit the mount. BPA sump has very tall fins for cooling on it and it does not hurt it to grind off some for clearance. Vans won't talk to us BPA users because we are "Hot Roders". They told me I was on my own on that. Wonderful Aircraft and for the most part a good company, but sometimes they just drive you nuts. Gary 40274 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:44 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance corrected by a properly modified engine mount? Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first generation "non modified" variety. On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety being passed over by the reading audience. John Cox (back from CES '2007) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with. Gary 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2 bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful. He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2 hour and he'd return it as soon as possible. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:41:24 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting From: "BPA" John, The area of the sump that seems to be causing interference issues on some of the RV-10 mounts are fins on the bottom of the sump in the very rear under the oil pickup on the casting. These fins are there for no particular reason other than aesthetics (looks cool). On the first couple of sumps that we supplied for the RV-10's with this interference problem, we used a die grinder and removed the fins without getting into the 'meat' or integral part of the sump. Tim had a fit issue with the standard sump and Van's determined that there may be slight differences in the PMA sump based most likely on vendor changes, and modified his mount. We've seen this as well on other components. From what I gathered through the RV-10 list the original design was modified to accept these variances. As it turns out, this may not be the case. There is no reason, safety wise that the fins cannot be removed for clearance purposes. A better solution in my opinion would be to change the bar on the bottom of the mount. This can be done by the vendor that supplies the mounts to Van's, or I have a contact here in Oklahoma who will gladly do the work. Regards, Allen Barrett Barrett Precision Engines, Inc. www.barretprecisionengines.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 2:44 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance corrected by a properly modified engine mount? Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first generation "non modified" variety. On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety being passed over by the reading audience. John Cox (back from CES '2007) ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with. Gary 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2 bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful. He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2 hour and he'd return it as soon as possible. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 01:48:50 PM PST US From: "John Gonzalez" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever Incorrect engine mount bolts, an engine mount that doesn't leave enough space for the engine and now a seat adjustment lever which breaks off. Hey Deems, what movie did you end up seeing the other night. John Cox, I am not passing over a safety issue, just hoping to install a different engine. Unfortunately can't change the seats out. I am a little perplexed about why this stuff is happening. JOhn G. >From: "Tom Deutsch" >To: >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever >Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 14:58:09 -0600 > > >I have ordered a set to these seat adjustment levers and one broke on >first test use. They have a week spot where the lever attached to the >lift pin for the seat adjustment. I sent it back to Greg, with no >questions asked he acknowledged the problem, designed a fix and sent me >a new set. I haven't tried the new ones yet but they look much better. >Just be sure not to lift the handle too far and advise your passengers >not to either. > >It's great to work with people like Greg. > >Tom Deutsch, #40545 > >Office 913 451-1222 >Fax 913 451-6493 >Cell 913 908-7752 > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & >Julie Wade >Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 6:21 AM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever > > > >This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to >busy trying to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good >design. So much better that having to reach beside the seat and pull the >lever. Here is his website, check it out for yourself. >http://www.nwacaptain.com/ > >Blue Skies >Jim >40383 >DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!! > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549 > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 01:56:05 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Fuel level sender installation on QB Wings From: "Michael Wellenzohn" Hello, for those who chose QB wings do you know a "sophisticated" way to proberly ajust the fuel level sender in the tank. I feel like I would need to bend the lever by chance in a direction and try if it clears the vent line. I use the multimeter to measure the travel but I cant see what stops it to go all the way up. Thanks Michael www.wellenzohn.net -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86813#86813 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:58:59 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting From: "John W. Cox" Thanks for the reply. Grinding can induce microscopic fractures. In school we had to Dye-Pen the work to confirm acceptance and no cracks. At work, we just yell for an NDT specialist to get off their butt and co-sign our artwork (its a little more complex than that actually). My partner in school thought he would be cute and sand blasted it which effectively hid the cracks. It was nearly a failure of the class for failing to willfully not following approved Lycoming procedures. I am a supporter of sound mods. Am guessing you have escaped the "Golden BB" on this one. For those who read these posts, I hope the exercise was of value. My solution, find an approved and certified aircraft welder of 4130 and make the mount correct. It sure seems we get shoe-horned into a tight pair at times. Now how lucky was Deem's to get Scott in a gracious moment to send it back to VANS for his BPA hot rod to get it done right at the source. Could there be a safety mod in the wind for us Slow Bloomers? John ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 1:27 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting OK for you inquiring minds. BPA suggested grinding off the fins to fit the mount. BPA sump has very tall fins for cooling on it and it does not hurt it to grind off some for clearance. Vans won't talk to us BPA users because we are "Hot Roders". They told me I was on my own on that. Wonderful Aircraft and for the most part a good company, but sometimes they just drive you nuts. Gary 40274 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:44 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance corrected by a properly modified engine mount? Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first generation "non modified" variety. On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety being passed over by the reading audience. John Cox (back from CES '2007) ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with. Gary 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2 bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful. He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2 hour and he'd return it as soon as possible. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:02:26 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited From: "McGANN, Ron" Thanks Jesse, I'll give one/both methods a try. I have removed the 'do not arch...' from your response below - there is waaaay too much useful info that is excluded from the archives. cheers Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Sent: Wed 10/01/2007 22:54 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a little. The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for the wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit in. Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to the side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get the other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the plane out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an inch or two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need another half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you for just half and inch. Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited G'day all, Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the mains, engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last year about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width should be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as DWG 1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured my door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The bad news came tonight. Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of the mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*( It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a suggestion to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is manouvered sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone had any success? Looking for the path of least resistance. It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans. not so cheery tonight Ron ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:02:26 PM PST US From: Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount When I talked to Van's, I told Scott Risan that my engine was an experimental Lycoming built by BPE and Scott said that he knew "that those guys in OKLA cast there own sumps". It didn't seem to be an issue with him. Scott was EXTREMELY helpful, offered to pay the shipping. (I agreed to split it with him). I didn't think that grinding the rear of the fins would have given me the clearance I wanted/needed.With the fins ground, I _might_ have been able to get it hung and to get the upper mount/bolts in, but the clearance with the cross member would have been too tight to provide peace of mind for the engine settling when the mounts compress over time. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ gary wrote: > OK for you inquiring minds. BPA suggested grinding off the fins to fit > the mount. BPA sump has very tall fins for cooling on it and it does > not hurt it to grind off some for clearance. > > Vans wont talk to us BPA users because we are Hot Roders. They told > me I was on my own on that. Wonderful Aircraft and for the most part a > good company, but sometimes they just drive you nuts. > > Gary > > 40274 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John W. Cox > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:44 PM > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet > cutting > > Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would > anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance > corrected by a properly modified engine mount? > > Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will > Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am > waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first > generation "non modified" variety. > > On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their > engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety > being passed over by the reading audience. > > John Cox > > (back from CES '2007) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary > *Sent:* Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet > cutting > > > I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air > induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with. > Gary > 40274 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet > cutting > > > I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2 > bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on > the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure > if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said > the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported > his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system > which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat > from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful. > He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines > where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since > of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something > hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount > is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2 > hour and he'd return it as soon as possible. > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > >* > > >* > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 02:11:16 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." The seat has a modification from the factory. There is nothing wrong with the seats as delivered, it is when you modify them and extend the lever out front that there is an issue. Dan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 4:48 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever Incorrect engine mount bolts, an engine mount that doesn't leave enough space for the engine and now a seat adjustment lever which breaks off. Hey Deems, what movie did you end up seeing the other night. John Cox, I am not passing over a safety issue, just hoping to install a different engine. Unfortunately can't change the seats out. I am a little perplexed about why this stuff is happening. JOhn G. >From: "Tom Deutsch" >To: >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever >Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 14:58:09 -0600 > > >I have ordered a set to these seat adjustment levers and one broke on >first test use. They have a week spot where the lever attached to the >lift pin for the seat adjustment. I sent it back to Greg, with no >questions asked he acknowledged the problem, designed a fix and sent me >a new set. I haven't tried the new ones yet but they look much better. >Just be sure not to lift the handle too far and advise your passengers >not to either. > >It's great to work with people like Greg. > >Tom Deutsch, #40545 > >Office 913 451-1222 >Fax 913 451-6493 >Cell 913 908-7752 > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & >Julie Wade >Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 6:21 AM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever > > > >This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to >busy trying to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good >design. So much better that having to reach beside the seat and pull the >lever. Here is his website, check it out for yourself. >http://www.nwacaptain.com/ > >Blue Skies >Jim >40383 >DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!! > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549 > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 02:11:38 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." I also have these on order can you verify if they are hollow 1/2" tube or solid bar stock? THX Dan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Deutsch Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:58 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever I have ordered a set to these seat adjustment levers and one broke on first test use. They have a week spot where the lever attached to the lift pin for the seat adjustment. I sent it back to Greg, with no questions asked he acknowledged the problem, designed a fix and sent me a new set. I haven't tried the new ones yet but they look much better. Just be sure not to lift the handle too far and advise your passengers not to either. It's great to work with people like Greg. Tom Deutsch, #40545 Office 913 451-1222 Fax 913 451-6493 Cell 913 908-7752 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Julie Wade Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 6:21 AM Subject: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to busy trying to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good design. So much better that having to reach beside the seat and pull the lever. Here is his website, check it out for yourself. http://www.nwacaptain.com/ Blue Skies Jim 40383 DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549 ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 02:20:35 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited From: "McGANN, Ron" Thanks Jesse, I'll give one/both methods a try. I have removed the 'do not arch...' from your response below - there is waaaay too much useful info that is excluded from the archives. cheers Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Sent: Wed 10/01/2007 22:54 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a little. The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for the wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit in. Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to the side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get the other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the plane out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an inch or two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need another half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you for just half and inch. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited G'day all, Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the mains, engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last year about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width should be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as DWG 1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured my door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The bad news came tonight. Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of the mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*( It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a suggestion to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is manouvered sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone had any success? Looking for the path of least resistance. It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans. not so cheery tonight Ron ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 02:24:19 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever From: "John W. Cox" Word from another more advanced builder (EH) was they are just too swamped at VANS to make the simple mods. That's good news for everyone... Right? In their defense, they are alway (well almost) willing to help builders complete a safe and exciting aircraft. You would not understand what hoops they have to jump through. Having written FAA Approved training manuals and finding a single word in the regs that was written incorrectly, I learned that it took two years and $400,000 to change published documents into the correct legaleze. ONE SINGLE WORD. No one likes a reality check. Just wait until carbon fiber replacement canopies with close tolerance door fitment, wingtips that fit the first time, aerodynamic wheelpants with 30% less frontal area and speed fairings are offered - After market. Just like the Wholly Cowl, if you build an improved product, a properly functioning marketplace will wear a grooved path to your door. It is all about market driven QC. Make it better, make it safer, make it quicker, make it cheaper, make it easy to locate. Then tell Tim about it. This list has been instrumental in moving the mountain one yard at a time in the best of all directions. Towards safe flight. John G, I have a record with several builders of helping with those Alternate engines choices. I even foster passion for a new engine cowl which will tackle other Lycoming variants. Just make sure the quality or safety is not compromised in the pursuit of improvement. Keep us informed. On the seat handle issue, I know Mike Dennis and he will not leave testing and product improvement to sit idle. Tell Oregon Aeroa about Greg Hales mousetrap. John c. ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of John Gonzalez Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 1:48 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever Incorrect engine mount bolts, an engine mount that doesn't leave enough space for the engine and now a seat adjustment lever which breaks off. Hey Deems, what movie did you end up seeing the other night. John Cox, I am not passing over a safety issue, just hoping to install a different engine. Unfortunately can't change the seats out. I am a little perplexed about why this stuff is happening. JOhn G. >From: "Tom Deutsch" >To: >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat adjustment lever >Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 14:58:09 -0600 > > >I have ordered a set to these seat adjustment levers and one broke on >first test use. They have a week spot where the lever attached to the >lift pin for the seat adjustment. I sent it back to Greg, with no >questions asked he acknowledged the problem, designed a fix and sent me >a new set. I haven't tried the new ones yet but they look much better. >Just be sure not to lift the handle too far and advise your passengers >not to either. > >It's great to work with people like Greg. > >Tom Deutsch, #40545 > >Office 913 451-1222 >Fax 913 451-6493 >Cell 913 908-7752 ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 02:39:51 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount From: "Randy DeBauw" Just to let everyone know, I talked to the guy at Van's that welds the engine mounts. They are made in house. I asked about the bar hitting on Tim's and he said that the bar was an after thought for some added strength. He said it could have gone anywhere between the two down tubes. On the 220RV it cleared just fine and on my engine that I bought used and had rebuilt if fit fine. He did say that they had moved the bar down and shouldn't be a problem any more if you have a pan like Tim's. Well it looks like they may have to move it again. Randy 40006 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 2:02 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount When I talked to Van's, I told Scott Risan that my engine was an experimental Lycoming built by BPE and Scott said that he knew "that those guys in OKLA cast there own sumps". It didn't seem to be an issue with him. Scott was EXTREMELY helpful, offered to pay the shipping. (I agreed to split it with him). I didn't think that grinding the rear of the fins would have given me the clearance I wanted/needed.With the fins ground, I _might_ have been able to get it hung and to get the upper mount/bolts in, but the clearance with the cross member would have been too tight to provide peace of mind for the engine settling when the mounts compress over time. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ gary wrote: > OK for you inquiring minds. BPA suggested grinding off the fins to fit > the mount. BPA sump has very tall fins for cooling on it and it does > not hurt it to grind off some for clearance. > > Vans won't talk to us BPA users because we are "Hot Roders". They told > me I was on my own on that. Wonderful Aircraft and for the most part a > good company, but sometimes they just drive you nuts. > > Gary > > 40274 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John W. Cox > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:44 PM > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet > cutting > > Gary, just a question based on A & P school experience. Why would > anyone grind a fin on an engine rather than have the errant clearance > corrected by a properly modified engine mount? > > Does anyone know if VANS is yet properly modifying the mount or will > Deems' be the first sole with a third generation modification? I am > waiting with anticipation to hear that his mount was a first > generation "non modified" variety. > > On a second note, How does BPA feel about kit builders grinding their > engine components? This might just be an important point on Safety > being passed over by the reading audience. > > John Cox > > (back from CES '2007) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gary > *Sent:* Wed 1/10/2007 3:59 AM > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet > cutting > > > I needed to grind off some of the fins on the bottom ob my cold air > induction sump to give the clearance I was comfortable with. > Gary > 40274 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:11 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet > cutting > > > I have an interference issue with the lower crossmember. With the 2 > bottom mounts and bolts in place the bottom of the sump is resting on > the cross member and the top ears/mounts are 1/8-3/16" off. I'm not sure > if it's a problem with the mount, (unlikely) as Scott Risan @ Van's said > the made a change to the position of the cross member after Tim reported > his situation. It's more likely due to the Cold Air Induction system > which has a custom cast oil sump that in all likelihood varies somewhat > from Lycoming stock. When talking to Scott , who was EXTREMELY helpful. > He said that after the change they made they had reports of some engines > where the tolerance was VERY close, but mine was the 1st incident since > of an obstruction. He wanted to check the mount to make sure something > hadn't changed in their process. (I received my mount Aug 06). The mount > is in transit to Van's this week, Scott said the fix only takes 1/2 > hour and he'd return it as soon as possible. > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > >* > > >* > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 02:39:59 PM PST US From: "Kelly McMullen" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting What's your target now John? Osh 2020? or Copperstate 2015? On 1/10/07, John W. Cox wrote: Could there be a safety mod in the wind for us Slow Bloomers? > > John > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 03:01:36 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting From: "John W. Cox" I retire officially in 2014 so I go onto Deem's schedule then. I am having too much fun helping other builders through the briar patch to accelerate the pace much. There is always Rob Hickman or John Jessen to set pace with locally. And Kelly... while you are at it what is your build number and pace for the audience? John - #600 Do not Archive ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Kelly McMullen Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 2:39 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting What's your target now John? Osh 2020? or Copperstate 2015? On 1/10/07, John W. Cox wrote: Could there be a safety mod in the wind for us Slow Bloomers? > > John > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 03:17:40 PM PST US From: "Kelly McMullen" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting # XXXX, potential start date around the end of the year. Like you, retirement is still down the road, and way too much work to do on my Mooney and helping other plane owners. Sounds like my Copperstate 2015 wasn't too far off, eh? 8^) Maybe I'll be right there with you. On 1/10/07, John W. Cox wrote: > I retire officially in 2014 so I go onto Deem's schedule then. I am having too much fun helping other builders through the briar patch to accelerate the pace much. There is always Rob Hickman or John Jessen to set pace with locally. > > And Kelly... while you are at it what is your build number and pace for the audience? > > John - #600 > Do not Archive > > ________________________________ > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Wed 1/10/2007 2:39 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount was - Source for Laser/WaterJet cutting > > > > What's your target now John? Osh 2020? or Copperstate 2015? > > On 1/10/07, John W. Cox wrote: > Could there be a safety mod in the wind for us Slow Bloomers? > > > > John > > > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 03:52:26 PM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I still read the "Do not archive." fully at the bottom of my previous post. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 4:59 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited Thanks Jesse, I'll give one/both methods a try. I have removed the 'do not arch...' from your response below - there is waaaay too much useful info that is excluded from the archives. cheers Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Sent: Wed 10/01/2007 22:54 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a little. The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for the wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit in. Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to the side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get the other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the plane out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an inch or two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need another half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you for just half and inch. Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited G'day all, Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the mains, engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last year about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width should be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as DWG 1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured my door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The bad news came tonight. Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of the mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*( It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a suggestion to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is manouvered sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone had any success? Looking for the path of least resistance. It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans. not so cheery tonight Ron ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 03:54:06 PM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited I gotcha now. I guess we both had a chance to double post and clog cyberspace with useless e-mail. Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 5:20 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited Thanks Jesse, I'll give one/both methods a try. I have removed the 'do not arch...' from your response below - there is waaaay too much useful info that is excluded from the archives. cheers Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Sent: Wed 10/01/2007 22:54 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a little. The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for the wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit in. Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to the side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get the other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the plane out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an inch or two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need another half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you for just half and inch. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited G'day all, Significant progress over the holidays has seen installation of the mains, engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I remember a thread last year about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width should be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as DWG 1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured my door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The bad news came tonight. Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of the mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). !@#$%^&*( It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a suggestion to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is manouvered sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone had any success? Looking for the path of least resistance. It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL measurements with their plans. not so cheery tonight Ron ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 06:11:33 PM PST US From: jerry petersen Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited Sounds like you could get by by removing one main wheel and devising a teporary caster wheel or slide to get it out the door and remount the main. We had to get ours lower and narrower to get it out the door and divised a temporary axle inside the hollow portion of the main gear and put a small wheel on it. Lots of ways to do it. Good luck. Jerry --- "McGANN, Ron" wrote: > > > Thanks Jesse, I'll give one/both methods a try. I > have removed the 'do not arch...' from your response > below - there is waaaay too much useful info that is > excluded from the archives. > > cheers > Ron > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf > of Jesse Saint > Sent: Wed 10/01/2007 22:54 > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Distance between Mains > revisited > > > > I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it > off to the side a little. > The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container > (without the rods for the > wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be > turned a little to fit in. > Getting out of the garage door should not be too > hard if you turn it to the > side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it > over a little to get the > other out. Either or both of these methods should > help you get the plane > out without taking it off the gear. You will save a > max of maybe an inch or > two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks > like you only need another > half an inch. I think one of the above methods > should take care of you for > just half and inch. > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse@itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > Cell: 352-427-0285 > Fax: 815-377-3694 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On > Behalf Of McGANN, Ron > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:44 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Distance between Mains revisited > > G'day all, > > Significant progress over the holidays has seen > installation of the mains, > engine mount and nose gear/wheel assemblies. I > remember a thread last year > about distance between the mains and comments that > an 8' door width should > be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic > drawing identified as DWG > 1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main > centres. I measured my > door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo > (me thinks). The bad > news came tonight. > > Because of the camber, the maximum distance between > the outside edges of the > mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). > !@#$%^&*( > > It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have > also read a suggestion > to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can > anyone vouch for that > method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will > fit if it is manouvered > sideways through the door (rather than straight > through) - has anyone had > any success? > > Looking for the path of least resistance. > > It's a pity Vans does not provide USEFUL > measurements with their plans. > > not so cheery tonight > Ron > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 08:15:59 PM PST US From: Les Kearney Subject: RV10-List: Stuff to order with the fuse kit. Hi I just received notification from Van's that my fuse kit (slow build) will ship in early Feb. Is there anything I should be ordering from Van's as well? As I am doing QB wings, Van's advised that I need the wing center section so I have that covered. I have also ordered the RV10 flap positioner kit. I thought I might order 25' of plastic conduit for the fuse wiring as well. Should I get the strobe kit now or wait? All suggestions gratefully accepted. Inquiring minds need to know... Les Kearney RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 08:56:28 PM PST US From: "John Gonzalez" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stuff to order with the fuse kit. Get the fifty feet of conduit and save yourself a second shipping bill and handling fee. John G. 409 >From: Les Kearney >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Stuff to order with the fuse kit. >Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 21:13:34 -0700 > >Hi > > >I just received notification from Van's that my fuse kit (slow build) will >ship in early Feb. Is there anything I should be ordering from Van's as >well? As I am doing QB wings, Van's advised that I need the wing center >section so I have that covered. I have also ordered the RV10 flap >positioner >kit. > > >I thought I might order 25' of plastic conduit for the fuse wiring as well. >Should I get the strobe kit now or wait? All suggestions gratefully >accepted. > > >Inquiring minds need to know... > > >Les Kearney > >RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.