Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:35 AM - Re: LASAR ignition system questions (Werner Schneider)
2. 06:58 AM - Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge! (Deems Davis)
3. 07:06 AM - Re: Firewall covering (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 07:10 AM - Re: James Cowl Question (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
5. 07:12 AM - Re: Cabin cover fit pictures (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 07:56 AM - Re: Cabin cover fit pictures (cloudvalley@comcast.net)
7. 08:35 AM - Re: Control Stick interference (John Hasbrouck)
8. 08:57 AM - Re: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge! (John Gonzalez)
9. 10:15 AM - Re: James Cowl Question (Pascal)
10. 10:37 AM - Re: Firewall covering (Les Kearney)
11. 10:44 AM - Re: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge! (Brian Douglas)
12. 10:44 AM - Re: Cabin cover fit pictures (John W. Cox)
13. 10:54 AM - Aileron Rigging (Fred Williams, M.D.)
14. 11:09 AM - Re: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge! (John Gonzalez)
15. 11:22 AM - Re: Cabin cover fit pictures (Mark Ritter)
16. 11:36 AM - Re: James Cowl Question (Tim Olson)
17. 11:39 AM - Re: Aileron Rigging (Rene Felker)
18. 11:43 AM - Hot off the CNC Lathe (zackrv8)
19. 11:55 AM - Re: Aileron Rigging (Tim Olson)
20. 12:31 PM - Re: Aileron Rigging (Mark Ritter)
21. 12:53 PM - Re: Aileron Rigging (Rene Felker)
22. 01:04 PM - Axle Extender length needed (Tim Olson)
23. 01:06 PM - Re: Aileron Rigging (Tim Olson)
24. 01:09 PM - Re: Hot off the CNC Lathe (ddddsp1@juno.com)
25. 02:04 PM - Re: Hot off the CNC Lathe (zackrv8)
26. 02:04 PM - Re: Aileron Rigging (Mark Ritter)
27. 02:39 PM - Window Trim (Niko)
28. 03:07 PM - Re: Changed to prop decision (David Boone)
29. 03:14 PM - Re: Window Trim (Deems Davis)
30. 03:19 PM - Cleaveland Shipping was: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge! (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
31. 03:41 PM - Re: Window Trim (rv10builder)
32. 03:42 PM - Re: Window Trim (rv10builder)
33. 03:45 PM - Aileron rigging (Fred Williams, M.D.)
34. 03:49 PM - Re: Aileron Rigging (Randy DeBauw)
35. 04:03 PM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (jerry petersen)
36. 04:35 PM - Re: Window Trim (Niko)
37. 05:05 PM - Re: Window Trim (Larry Rosen)
38. 05:34 PM - Re: Window Trim (rv10builder)
39. 05:47 PM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Jesse Saint)
40. 05:52 PM - Re: James Cowl Question (Jesse Saint)
41. 06:01 PM - Re: Hot off the CNC Lathe (Jesse Saint)
42. 06:26 PM - Re: Window Trim (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
43. 06:41 PM - Re: Hot off the CNC Lathe (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
44. 07:06 PM - Re: James Cowl Question... more on prop selection (Jeff Carpenter)
45. 07:42 PM - Re: Window Trim (Deems Davis)
46. 07:42 PM - Re: Hot off the CNC Lathe (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
47. 07:45 PM - Re: James Cowl Question (Deems Davis)
48. 07:51 PM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Tim Olson)
49. 08:22 PM - James Cowl spacing for MT Prop w/ 14" spinner? (Eric Parlow)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: LASAR ignition system questions |
Randy Lervold wrote:
> Does the controller need access for engine set-up or maintenance?
>
> Not sure what you're asking here. The controller box is non user
> servicable, if there's a problem you'll remove it and send it back so
> you need to be able to remove it. Of course the system will operate in
> conventional mag mode without the controller. If you get the "bush
> kit" it will even start without it because an impulse coupling is
> included. If you are ordering an engine from Bart (Aero Sport Power)
> he configures all his LASAR installations with the bush kit.
>
the only time you want to have access to the box (better the connector
on the lower left edge) is, when you want to know why exactly the red
light is on. A serial cable to your computer gives you a diagnostic
screen with some engine parameters and error code.
I'm able to access the plug trough the oil access door.
br Werner
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge! |
Whaz a matta caint yu tak a jok!
(Kitlog could do with a spell checker!)
I've been looking for someone that could laser/waterjet cut new
subpanels for my instrument panel, I hand cut the originals and am not
happy with them. I got prices any where up to $400. I was having a
problem accurately recreating the outlines of the subpanels in a CAD
program. When it dawned on me to call Aerotronics where I purchased the
fiberglass panel from (duh). I called Gary Wirrell, who not only agreed
to cut them but offered to do it for FREE!!!!! Gary has been monitoring
some of the msg boards and had seen previous posts favorable to
Aerotronics and wanted to return a favor. WOW! and just when I was
beginning to think that customer service was dead. As you know I'm
building my own panel, and other than purchasing the fiberglass panel
piece from Gary, that's it. But Gary did a CAD layout of my panel to
make sure the OP Tech EFIS would fit, and then with the remake of the
sub-panels, he's done several more! He's also provided several EXTREMELY
Valuable suggestions, that I wouldn't have thought of otherwise. and Oh
yeh, he's doing all of this in the midst of the D2A disaster! So I'm
again returning a favor by sharing my experience with the board.
My next project (an F1 rocket) will have an Aerotronics built panel!
THANKS AGAIN Gary!!!!!
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rick wrote:
>.iF ewe knew whut I meen!!! :)
>
>
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Firewall covering |
This Looks to be the same thing as what I used but twice as much. http://www.quietcoat.com/index.html It works very well at deadening sound but will add weight. A 5 gal pail is about 72lbs, less than Dynamat though. Check the archives for more info. Also as ceramic paint seems to be a current topic again, there should be some stuff in there about my experience on the subject as I did a full battery of tests on a ceramic paint additive that I used. Funny how those archives have information in them isn't it. :-)
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Limbo
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lorenz Malmstrm
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 12:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Firewall covering
There is another product from 'Super Soundproofing' named "Sound Damping
Liquid" that seems to have similar properties. Question: Has anybody used
this? What are the pros and cons to 'LizardSkin'? The spray gun seems to be
a lot cheaper and material about the same.
http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/liquid.htm
Lorenz.
#40280
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Chris Johnston
> Sent: Dienstag, 16. Januar 2007 03:02
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Firewall covering
>
>
> --> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> I'm not sure how much I used, but there's got to be over a
> gallon left. It was expensive (paint and gun system), but I
> was willing to give it a try. I was kind of reserving
> judgment til I got flying so I could see what the real poop
> on it was, as it's kind of a commitment to go squirting some
> unknown quantity all over the inside of your airplane. I
> didn't want to bring it up then figure out that it sucked,
> basically. However, if others feel like taking the plunge
> right along with me, I'm willing to pass around the gun
> system and the leftover paint to whoever wants to use it. I
> just want to be clear up front that yes, I think it should
> work, yes it looks like it should work, yes, I'm happy with
> my results (untested as they may be), but I don't KNOW that
> it is as neato as I think it is. One test that I've been
> meaning to do is just get my heat gun out and heat up the
> engine side with it while touching the interior side with my
> hand. Not too scientific, but I don't have an IR temp gauge
> to use. I'll check it out this evening and report back.
>
> But back to the question, I really don't see the need for
> others to go buying this special gun when this is the only
> thing you'll ever use it for. We'll just pass it around to
> whoever wants to check it out - it only takes a day to squirt
> the stuff. Let me know if you want to, maybe just cover
> shipping to you. I'm willing to throw a tool and some
> leftover paint in the pot if it's helpful to other builders.
> I expected it all to just collect dust in my garage anyway...
>
> Oh - yea, it looks purplish while you're mixing it (you have
> to mix with a drill driven paint mixer for a couple minutes
> til it looks smooth) but dries a flat chalky black. Also,
> it's pretty tough stuff. It doesn't flake or chip easily.
>
> cj
> #40410
> fuse
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 5:17 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Firewall covering
>
> <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> Thanks for the great post.
>
> A comment. Dan Newland who specializes in fire suppression
> blankets reminded me that one of their company's products
> ORCON must be removable during the conditional inspection to
> search for corrosion. A result of condensation from moisture
> in air vapors. When foam material is glued, it is real bear
> to tear off to effect such a corrosion inspection. On our
> airline birds, the suppression batting gets soaked and is
> impossible to dry out effectively. We have to throw it away
> and you would then know why tickets are so expensive if you
> saw the cost. The amount of corrosion that forms from the
> condensate.... WOW.
>
> The idea of a product which covers the aluminum skin and may
> also provide corrosion protection is of value. I don't know
> the answer but I will do some digging. I know they say in
> their marketing that it does protect the surface.
>
> The Question. Their site mentions MSRP of $189.00 for a 2
> gallon container. How much did you use? Is the residual
> available for purchase. Bethany had a blue paste in one
> picture but then it looked dark grey on drying. Should we
> pursue a group buy and divvy it up like a Coop?
>
> John Cox
> #600
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Chris Johnston
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 4:34 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Firewall covering
>
> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Sure.
>
> Well, I do a lot of research when it comes to airplane
> building, and frequently, my history with race cars comes to
> my aid. When you think about it, a race car and an aircraft
> have similar needs. It needs to be light and strong, you
> want to keep your fluids where you put them, and much of the
> time, you battle heat issues. So when people started talking
> about the infamous "tunnel", I started listening. I
> considered and rejected a bunch of things (foil backed
> graphite sheets, etc.) and finally found this stuff.
>
> http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/ceramic.php
>
> I called "the guy" over there, and he seemed to know what he
> was talking about. I took notes at the time, but I've since
> lost them. The point was that the paint is thick, it dries
> VERY lightweight, and it apparently does a good job of
> rejecting heat. It also kind of seals little voids which is
> an added plus. I also took note of this page of the website:
>
> http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/testimonials4.php
>
> So there it was. It seemed to fit the bill, and I'll also
> use some mylar faced fiberglass race car insulation on the
> firewall and in the tunnel to add a bit more to the
> insulating properties. Initially, I thought I'd just use it
> in the tunnel area under my false floor, and under the
> pilot/copilot floor as shown here
> http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Tun
> nel%20Modi
> fication.html
> but after thinking more about it, I decided to do the
> firewall as well. The pros are basically that it's supposed
> to reduce the temp in the cabin, and seal the firewall a bit
> extra (I also did firewall sealant around the seams and
> nutplates). It sticks well to everything, and it's very
> light. It's also water soluble and paintable. The cons?
> Well the paint isn't smooth after you apply it. it's so
> thick, that it's got kind of a car undercoat texture. It's
> very messy to apply. You must mask very well and very
> carefully. Also, you must peal the mask before the paint
> fully dries. It uses a special gun that you have to buy.
> There's no way you could spray it with a normal gun. No way.
> Also, I suppose for inspections, you can't pull it away from
> the firewall to see the condition of the shop heads and
> stiffeners. I decided that I'd be ok with that, as long as I
> could still see the steel engine mount thingys at the corners
> of the firewall. So in the end, I masked those, and the
> rivet lines for the forward fuse deck, and the attach point
> for my parking brake, and painted the rest. I might also
> paint the underside of the false floor I built in the tunnel
> after I get the brackets riveted to it.
>
> As an aside, don't get to thinking that the sound deadening
> stuff on the lizard skin website is going to be your friend,
> because it's REALLY heavy.
>
> Hope that answers any questions.
>
> cj
> #40410
> fuse
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 2:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Firewall covering
>
> <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> Chris - as I was reviewing your website for cowl information
> and pictures to balance with Deems great work, I noticed that
> you and Bethany have a page on your website
> http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Fir
ewall%20Pa
inting.html that uses some interesting product. Can you expound with a new
thread?
John Cox
#40600
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | James Cowl Question |
If you go with a MT prop, you can specify the 14" spinner from MT for no
extra charge.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
I ordered a 14" spinner from Aero Composites
http://www.aerocomposites.com/ , the same place I'm getting my prop
from.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Ben Westfall wrote:
> Deems,
>
> What are you using for a spinner for your James Cowl?
>
> -Ben Westfall
>
> Portland, OR
>
> #40579 - gas tanks
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cabin cover fit pictures |
I hosed off and then packed everything up and moved so I didn't have to
clean the shop. :-)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
I'll own up.....I use compressed air to get all the fibreglass dust off
me.....and then a leaf blower to remove from the clothes on the washing
line....and then the pool filter...
A bit like a Cat In The Hat story.
John 40315 do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Wednesday, 17 January 2007 10:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
Looking at your web page CJ, you and I looked exactly the same after
cutting
and sanding....covered in white powder. Once past this though it's
almost as
good a feeling as finishing the tanks.
Let's start a new war...how many used compressed air to clean themselves
off? ;)
Bad thing just in case you were wondering....
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cabin cover fit pictures |
Hello John,
So is anyone going to develop a "carbon copy" alternative to the fiberglass canopy?
My wife are not nearly ready yet; we have only finished the empennage, but
we are interested. Please let us know more. Thank you
Brian and Ruth Preston
#40666
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> I appreciate Steve's contrarian view and consternation. A balance in
> intelligent conversation is a good thing. So was the comment on corrosion.
>
> Each may be found to be baseless but is heartfelt and therefore worth reading.
> Toray is the supplier, the shortage is only when buying hundreds of bolts of
> production for commercial airliner manufacture (we use the stuff at work every
> day)and only momentary in time as to supply shortages. It is not holding up
> Boeing sales one iota.
>
> The world of plastic planes has come a long way from Styrofoam glued slabs,
> hotwire and paper cup mixing process in darkened garages. The White Knight was
> a great example. The heavens are now our limit. Fitment and finish is a matter
> of mold building, quality control and where the labor is applied. I feel many
> would like to take advantage of the QB concept on labor application, just like
> doing repetitive rivets on the umpteenth wing rib. The marketplace will sort
> out each person's place. The 51% rule should insure that each builder has the
> knowledge and skill set to maintain the safety and airworthiness of their kit.
>
> I respectfully conclude Steve that if VANS canopy is of higher quality than your
> workmanship on your last aircraft, we are talking totally of different issues.
> Integrated roll bars, air distribution plenum with overhead lights and switches,
> fitment to within 0.010", improved placement and adhesion of windows, advanced
> door hinges and lockable latch assemblies are the improvements being considered.
> Oh yes, don't let me forget the work Dave McNeill did on improved shoulder
> harness mount points. Did I mention dozens of hours not washing off fiberglass
> dust from your arms and purging your respiratory system to catch a breath.
>
> Carbon fiber is superior for antenna ground planes and static dissipation. The
> wingtips would likely remain fiberglass for antennae concealment. A simple tape
> of fiberglass impregnated resin has resolved the contact between dissimilar
> materials on the nobility table for performance military aircraft for years.
I
> am confident that corrosion is not going to be an issue. The product will not
be
> for everyone. Nor is it intended to be. There may be some who would actually
> like to build their own mold and lay it up. To each their own product.
>
> I suspect Mark's question was answered within your response.
>
> John Cox
> #40600
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:42 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
>
>
> Steve,
>
> Have you received your canopy?
>
>
>
>
> >From:
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
> >Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 11:05:09 -0600
> >
> >I have been following the thread about the quality of the canopy with some
> >consternation;
> >
> >1. Graphite is currently in very short supply, and consequently the price
> >is unreasonably high, if you can even locate it. The likelyhood of finding
> >enough to build even one canopy is problematic. The outlook is not much
> >better, because Boeing is grabbing up everything on the market.
> >
> >2. I built a glass airplane a few years ago, and compared to the quality I
> >got on that kit, the Van's canopy is excellent. Fiberglass requires
> >shaping, and lots of surface preparation. To expect a bolt on fiberglass
> >part is unrealistic, and contrary to the whole idea of kit building.
> >
> >Steve Mills
> >RV-10 40486 Slow-build
> >Naperville, Illinois
> >finishing fuselage
> >Do Not Archive
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> >cloudvalley@comcast.net
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 10:42 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
> >
> >
> > Hello Niko,
> > My wife and I have just finished building our empennage kit; we have not
> >ordered the rest of the kit yet. We are interested in the canopy/cowl
> >discussions. Are these pictures you have of the fiberglass canopy? We are
> >not sure what will transpire with Van's QC on theirs, or if you or someone
> >will come up with something else. ( read your post about graphite). We are
> >really naiive about this whole process, and are hoping this canopy/cowl
> >problem will be resolved by the time we buy the rest of the kit. Thanks for
> >your input.
> > Brian and Ruth Preston
> > #40666
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> > From: Niko
> >
> > For those interested I have attached some Cabin Cover fit pictures.
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> > Niko
> > 40188
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Find sales, coupons, and free shipping, all in one place! MSN Shopping
> Sales & Deals
> http://shopping.msn.com/content/shp/?ctid=198,ptnrid=176,ptnrdata 0639
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>Hello John,</DIV>
<DIV>So is anyone going to develop a "carbon copy" alternative to the fiberglass
canopy? My wife are not nearly ready yet; we have only finished the empennage,
but we are interested. Please let us know more. Thank you</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Brian and Ruth Preston</DIV>
<DIV>#40666</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "John W. Cox"
<johnwcox@pacificnw.com> <BR><BR>> --> RV10-List message posted
by: "John W. Cox" <JOHNWCOX@PACIFICNW.COM><BR>> <BR>> I appreciate Steve's
contrarian view and consternation. A balance in <BR>> intelligent conversation
is a good thing. So was the comment on corrosion. <BR>> <BR>> Each
may be found to be baseless but is heartfelt and therefore worth reading. <BR>>
Toray is the supplier, the shortage is only when buying hundreds of bolts
of <BR>> production for commercial airliner manufacture (we use the stuff
at work every <BR>> day)and only momentary in time as to supply shortages.
It is not holding up <BR>> Boeing sales one iota. <BR>> <BR>> The world
of plastic planes has come a long way from Styrofoam glued slabs, <BR>>
hotwire and paper cup mixing process in darkened ga
rages.
The White Knight was <BR>> a great example. The heavens are now our limit.
Fitment and finish is a matter <BR>> of mold building, quality control and
where the labor is applied. I feel many <BR>> would like to take advantage
of the QB concept on labor application, just like <BR>> doing repetitive rivets
on the umpteenth wing rib. The marketplace will sort <BR>> out each person's
place. The 51% rule should insure that each builder has the <BR>> knowledge
and skill set to maintain the safety and airworthiness of their kit. <BR>>
<BR>> I respectfully conclude Steve that if VANS canopy is of higher
quality than your <BR>> workmanship on your last aircraft, we are talking
totally of different issues. <BR>> Integrated roll bars, air distribution
plenum with overhead lights and switches, <BR>> fitment to within 0.010", improved
placement and adhesion of windows, advanced <BR>> door hinges and lockable
latch assemblies are the improvements being c
onside
red. <BR>> Oh yes, don't let me forget the work Dave McNeill did on improved
shoulder <BR>> harness mount points. Did I mention dozens of hours not washing
off fiberglass <BR>> dust from your arms and purging your respiratory
system to catch a breath. <BR>> <BR>> Carbon fiber is superior for antenna
ground planes and static dissipation. The <BR>> wingtips would likely remain
fiberglass for antennae concealment. A simple tape <BR>> of fiberglass
impregnated resin has resolved the contact between dissimilar <BR>> materials
on the nobility table for performance military aircraft for years. I <BR>>
am confident that corrosion is not going to be an issue. The product will
not be <BR>> for everyone. Nor is it intended to be. There may be some who
would actually <BR>> like to build their own mold and lay it up. To each their
own product. <BR>> <BR>> I suspect Mark's question was answered within
your response. <BR>> <BR>> John Cox <BR>>
#4060
uently
the price <BR>> >is unreasonably high, if you can even locate it. The likelyhood of finding <BR>> >enough to build even one canopy is problematic. The outlook is not much <BR>> >better, because Boeing is grabbing up everything on the market. <BR>> > <BR>> >2. I built a glass airplane a few years ago, and compared to the quality I <BR>> >got on that kit, the Van's canopy is excellent. Fiberglass requires <BR>> >shaping, and lots of surface preparation. To expect a bolt on fiberglass <BR>> >part is unrealistic, and contrary to the whole idea of kit building. <BR>> > <BR>> >Steve Mills <BR>> >RV-10 40486 Slow-build <BR>> >Naperville, Illinois <BR>> >finishing fuselage <BR>> >Do Not Archive <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > -----Original Message----- <BR>> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <BR>> >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of <BR>> >
;cloud
valley@comcast.net <BR>> > Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 10:42 AM <BR>>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <BR>> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin
cover fit pictures <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > Hello Niko, <BR>>
> My wife and I have just finished building our empennage kit; we have
not <BR>> >ordered the rest of the kit yet. We are interested in the
canopy/cowl <BR>> >discussions. Are these pictures you have of the fiberglass
canopy? We are <BR>> >not sure what will transpire with Van's QC on
theirs, or if you or someone <BR>> >will come up with something else.
( read your post about graphite). We are <BR>> >really naiive about this
whole process, and are hoping this canopy/cowl <BR>> >problem will be resolved
by the time we buy the rest of the kit. Thanks for <BR>> >your input.
<BR>> > Brian and Ruth Preston <BR>> > #40666 <BR>> >
<BR>> > -------------- Original message -------
------
://www
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick interference |
Jesse,
I'll concede that useless may be too strong a word for the jigs but I
think the dimensions given in the plans for the push tube lengths are a
better place to start with the rigging. Your comment about the weldments
and the control horns being the source of the variations is probably
correct. Thanks!
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge! |
Why an F1 rocket---just go straight to the ViperJet. What are you thinking!
Time is precious so stop spinning your wheels.
You could paint your words on the side of that plane and because it goes so
fast, no one would be able to tell you mispelled the words.
hou knees spel chek aniway!
John
>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge!
>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 07:57:45 -0700
>
>
>Whaz a matta caint yu tak a jok!
>
>(Kitlog could do with a spell checker!)
>
>I've been looking for someone that could laser/waterjet cut new subpanels
>for my instrument panel, I hand cut the originals and am not happy with
>them. I got prices any where up to $400. I was having a problem accurately
>recreating the outlines of the subpanels in a CAD program. When it dawned
>on me to call Aerotronics where I purchased the fiberglass panel from
>(duh). I called Gary Wirrell, who not only agreed to cut them but offered
>to do it for FREE!!!!! Gary has been monitoring some of the msg boards and
>had seen previous posts favorable to Aerotronics and wanted to return a
>favor. WOW! and just when I was beginning to think that customer service
>was dead. As you know I'm building my own panel, and other than purchasing
>the fiberglass panel piece from Gary, that's it. But Gary did a CAD layout
>of my panel to make sure the OP Tech EFIS would fit, and then with the
>remake of the sub-panels, he's done several more! He's also provided
>several EXTREMELY Valuable suggestions, that I wouldn't have thought of
>otherwise. and Oh yeh, he's doing all of this in the midst of the D2A
>disaster! So I'm again returning a favor by sharing my experience with the
>board.
>My next project (an F1 rocket) will have an Aerotronics built panel! THANKS
>AGAIN Gary!!!!!
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>Rick wrote:
>
>>.iF ewe knew whut I meen!!! :)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: James Cowl Question |
In my days researching the Lancair ES (when it was still affordable to buy
their kit and they didn't add the carbon canopy ;-) ) Aerocomposite was the
blade of choice. I can understand when one is spending 225K for a composite
plane that 13K (at the time) was nothing, but for a plane close to half that
price is 14.4K really that much better in performance, appearance or reason
one would go this way, than an MT for 7-8K?
Honestly just asking so I know. Not questioning the decision to chose the
more expensive blade just wondering in my cost cutting if 6K is worth the
price.. For example, 6K in an engine may produce something to show for the
difference in price.. what about this blade?
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> If you go with a MT prop, you can specify the 14" spinner from MT for no
> extra charge.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:28 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
>
>
> I ordered a 14" spinner from Aero Composites
> http://www.aerocomposites.com/ , the same place I'm getting my prop
> from.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Ben Westfall wrote:
>
>> Deems,
>>
>> What are you using for a spinner for your James Cowl?
>>
>> -Ben Westfall
>>
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> #40579 - gas tanks
>>
>>*
>>
>>
>>*
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Firewall covering |
Hmmm
Wouldn't a Soob be lighter and quieter?
Cheers
Les (who is now looking for a Nomex suit!).
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 8:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Firewall covering
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
This Looks to be the same thing as what I used but twice as much.
http://www.quietcoat.com/index.html It works very well at deadening sound
but will add weight. A 5 gal pail is about 72lbs, less than Dynamat though.
Check the archives for more info. Also as ceramic paint seems to be a
current topic again, there should be some stuff in there about my experience
on the subject as I did a full battery of tests on a ceramic paint additive
that I used. Funny how those archives have information in them isn't it.
:-)
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Limbo
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lorenz Malmstrm
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 12:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Firewall covering
<lm@viscomvisual.com>
There is another product from 'Super Soundproofing' named "Sound Damping
Liquid" that seems to have similar properties. Question: Has anybody used
this? What are the pros and cons to 'LizardSkin'? The spray gun seems to be
a lot cheaper and material about the same.
http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/liquid.htm
Lorenz.
#40280
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Chris Johnston
> Sent: Dienstag, 16. Januar 2007 03:02
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Firewall covering
>
>
> --> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> I'm not sure how much I used, but there's got to be over a
> gallon left. It was expensive (paint and gun system), but I
> was willing to give it a try. I was kind of reserving
> judgment til I got flying so I could see what the real poop
> on it was, as it's kind of a commitment to go squirting some
> unknown quantity all over the inside of your airplane. I
> didn't want to bring it up then figure out that it sucked,
> basically. However, if others feel like taking the plunge
> right along with me, I'm willing to pass around the gun
> system and the leftover paint to whoever wants to use it. I
> just want to be clear up front that yes, I think it should
> work, yes it looks like it should work, yes, I'm happy with
> my results (untested as they may be), but I don't KNOW that
> it is as neato as I think it is. One test that I've been
> meaning to do is just get my heat gun out and heat up the
> engine side with it while touching the interior side with my
> hand. Not too scientific, but I don't have an IR temp gauge
> to use. I'll check it out this evening and report back.
>
> But back to the question, I really don't see the need for
> others to go buying this special gun when this is the only
> thing you'll ever use it for. We'll just pass it around to
> whoever wants to check it out - it only takes a day to squirt
> the stuff. Let me know if you want to, maybe just cover
> shipping to you. I'm willing to throw a tool and some
> leftover paint in the pot if it's helpful to other builders.
> I expected it all to just collect dust in my garage anyway...
>
> Oh - yea, it looks purplish while you're mixing it (you have
> to mix with a drill driven paint mixer for a couple minutes
> til it looks smooth) but dries a flat chalky black. Also,
> it's pretty tough stuff. It doesn't flake or chip easily.
>
> cj
> #40410
> fuse
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 5:17 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Firewall covering
>
> <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> Thanks for the great post.
>
> A comment. Dan Newland who specializes in fire suppression
> blankets reminded me that one of their company's products
> ORCON must be removable during the conditional inspection to
> search for corrosion. A result of condensation from moisture
> in air vapors. When foam material is glued, it is real bear
> to tear off to effect such a corrosion inspection. On our
> airline birds, the suppression batting gets soaked and is
> impossible to dry out effectively. We have to throw it away
> and you would then know why tickets are so expensive if you
> saw the cost. The amount of corrosion that forms from the
> condensate.... WOW.
>
> The idea of a product which covers the aluminum skin and may
> also provide corrosion protection is of value. I don't know
> the answer but I will do some digging. I know they say in
> their marketing that it does protect the surface.
>
> The Question. Their site mentions MSRP of $189.00 for a 2
> gallon container. How much did you use? Is the residual
> available for purchase. Bethany had a blue paste in one
> picture but then it looked dark grey on drying. Should we
> pursue a group buy and divvy it up like a Coop?
>
> John Cox
> #600
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Chris Johnston
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 4:34 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Firewall covering
>
> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Sure.
>
> Well, I do a lot of research when it comes to airplane
> building, and frequently, my history with race cars comes to
> my aid. When you think about it, a race car and an aircraft
> have similar needs. It needs to be light and strong, you
> want to keep your fluids where you put them, and much of the
> time, you battle heat issues. So when people started talking
> about the infamous "tunnel", I started listening. I
> considered and rejected a bunch of things (foil backed
> graphite sheets, etc.) and finally found this stuff.
>
> http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/ceramic.php
>
> I called "the guy" over there, and he seemed to know what he
> was talking about. I took notes at the time, but I've since
> lost them. The point was that the paint is thick, it dries
> VERY lightweight, and it apparently does a good job of
> rejecting heat. It also kind of seals little voids which is
> an added plus. I also took note of this page of the website:
>
> http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/testimonials4.php
>
> So there it was. It seemed to fit the bill, and I'll also
> use some mylar faced fiberglass race car insulation on the
> firewall and in the tunnel to add a bit more to the
> insulating properties. Initially, I thought I'd just use it
> in the tunnel area under my false floor, and under the
> pilot/copilot floor as shown here
> http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Tun
> nel%20Modi
> fication.html
> but after thinking more about it, I decided to do the
> firewall as well. The pros are basically that it's supposed
> to reduce the temp in the cabin, and seal the firewall a bit
> extra (I also did firewall sealant around the seams and
> nutplates). It sticks well to everything, and it's very
> light. It's also water soluble and paintable. The cons?
> Well the paint isn't smooth after you apply it. it's so
> thick, that it's got kind of a car undercoat texture. It's
> very messy to apply. You must mask very well and very
> carefully. Also, you must peal the mask before the paint
> fully dries. It uses a special gun that you have to buy.
> There's no way you could spray it with a normal gun. No way.
> Also, I suppose for inspections, you can't pull it away from
> the firewall to see the condition of the shop heads and
> stiffeners. I decided that I'd be ok with that, as long as I
> could still see the steel engine mount thingys at the corners
> of the firewall. So in the end, I masked those, and the
> rivet lines for the forward fuse deck, and the attach point
> for my parking brake, and painted the rest. I might also
> paint the underside of the false floor I built in the tunnel
> after I get the brackets riveted to it.
>
> As an aside, don't get to thinking that the sound deadening
> stuff on the lizard skin website is going to be your friend,
> because it's REALLY heavy.
>
> Hope that answers any questions.
>
> cj
> #40410
> fuse
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 2:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Firewall covering
>
> <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> Chris - as I was reviewing your website for cowl information
> and pictures to balance with Deems great work, I noticed that
> you and Bethany have a page on your website
> http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Fir
ewall%20Pa
inting.html that uses some interesting product. Can you expound with a new
thread?
John Cox
#40600
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge! |
It's too bad that we've come to expect so little from the people we give
money to but I had a similar experience with Cleaveland Tools the other day.
I needed a threaded #12 drill bit but really nothing else. Naturally the
bit is like $2 and the cheapest shipping on the website is $5. But what are
you going to do, if you need the bit you need the bit. So I ordered two of
'em, entered my CC etc and later that day someone from Cleaveland called to
ask if it was ok to send the bits 1st class mail for $.50 instead of
charging the $5.
It's only $5 in a $100,000 project but service like that goes a long way in
my book.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
#40497
Finishing Empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 8:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge!
> fiberglass panel from (duh). I called Gary Wirrell, who not only agreed to
> cut them but offered to do it for FREE!!!!! Gary has been monitoring some
> of the msg boards and had seen previous posts favorable to Aerotronics and
> wanted to return a favor. WOW! and just when I was beginning to think that
> customer service was dead.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cabin cover fit pictures |
Yes an aeronautics manufacturer is considering such a product.
It cannot be a "carbon copy", beyond exact attachment points and
exterior detail airflow. The construction features, door hinging,
security latching and safety items are (In my opinion) an improvement.
To the novice, it would not be identifiable until the door opens.
When the first canopy is installed, it would have to be tested to
standards.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
cloudvalley@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:55 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
Hello John,
So is anyone going to develop a "carbon copy" alternative to the
fiberglass canopy? My wife are not nearly ready yet; we have only
finished the empennage, but we are interested. Please let us know more.
Thank you
Brian and Ruth Preston
#40666
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> I appreciate Steve's contrarian view and consternation. A
balance in
> intelligent conversation is a good thing. So was the comment
on corrosion.
>
> Each may be found to be baseless but is heartfelt and
therefore worth reading.
> Toray is the supplier, the shortage is only when buying
hundreds of bolts of
> production for commercial airliner manufacture (we use the
stuff at work every
> day)and only momentary in time as to supply shortages. It is
not holding up
> Boeing sales one iota.
>
> The world of plastic planes has come a long way from Styrofoam
glued slabs,
> hotwire and paper cup mixing process in darkened ga rages. The
White Knight was
> a great example. The heavens are now our limit. Fitment and
finish is a matter
> of mold building, quality control and where the labor is
applied. I feel many
> would like to take advantage of the QB concept on labor
application, just like
> doing repetitive rivets on the umpteenth wing rib. The
marketplace will sort
> out each person's place. The 51% rule should insure that each
builder has the
> knowledge and skill set to maintain the safety and
airworthiness of their kit.
>
> I respectfully conclude Steve that if VANS canopy is of higher
quality than your
> workmanship on your last aircraft, we are talking totally of
different issues.
> Integrated roll bars, air distribution plenum with overhead
lights and switches,
> fitment to within 0.010", improved placement and adhesion of
windows, advanced
> door hinges and lockable latch assemblies are the improvements
being c onside red.
> Oh yes, don't let me forget the work Dave McNeill did on
improved shoulder
> harness mount points. Did I mention dozens of hours not
washing off fiberglass
> dust from your arms and purging your respiratory system to
catch a breath.
>
> Carbon fiber is superior for antenna ground planes and static
dissipation. The
> wingtips would likely remain fiberglass for antennae
concealment. A simple tape
> of fiberglass impregnated resin has resolved the contact
between dissimilar
> materials on the nobility table for performance military
aircraft for years. I
> am confident that corrosion is not going to be an issue. The
product will not be
> for everyone. Nor is it intended to be. There may be some who
would actually
> like to build their own mold and lay it up. To each their own
product.
>
> I suspect Mark's question was answered within your response.
>
> John Cox
> #4060 0
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Mark Ritter
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:42 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
>
>
> Steve,
>
> Have you received your canopy?
>
>
>
>
> >From:
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
> >Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 11:05:09 -0600
> >
> >I have been following the thread about the quality of the
canopy with some
> >consternation;
> >
> >1. Graphite is currently in very short supply, and conseq
uently the price
> >is unreasonably high, if you can even locate it. The
likelyhood of finding
> >enough to build even one canopy is problematic. The outlook
is not much
> >better, because Boeing is grabbing up everything on the
market.
> >
> >2. I built a glass airplane a few years ago, and compared to
the quality I
> >got on that kit, the Van's canopy is excellent. Fiberglass
requires
> >shaping, and lots of surface preparation. To expect a bolt on
fiberglass
> >part is unrealistic, and contrary to the whole idea of kit
building.
> >
> >Steve Mills
> >RV-10 40486 Slow-build
> >Naperville, Illinois
> >finishing fuselage
> >Do Not Archive
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > ;cloud valley@comcast.net
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 10:42 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
> >
> >
> > Hello Niko,
> > My wife and I have just finished building our empennage kit;
we have not
> >ordered the rest of the kit yet. We are interested in the
canopy/cowl
> >discussions. Are these pictures you have of the fiberglass
canopy? We are
> >not sure what will transpire with Van's QC on theirs, or if
you or someone
> >will come up with something else. ( read your post about
graphite). We are
> >really naiive about this whole process, and are hoping this
canopy/cowl
> >problem will be resolved by the time we buy the rest of the
kit. Thanks for
> >your input.
> > Brian and Ruth Preston
> > #40666
> >
> > -------------- Original message ------- ------ ://www
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Question about the aileron rigging and what is normal.
First: On page 23-9 I have attached the flaps and let them but up
against the W-1007 rear spar doubler plate. The ailerons then match up
perfectly with the ends of the flaps. However, when I sight down the
airfoil profile, it looks like the flap is a couple of degrees Up. Is
this the normal starting place? Won't that make fitting the wingtip
fiberglass a lot more fun?
Second: kudos to the guys at trutrack. I ended up with the wrong
brackets for installing the roll servo and they sent the correct ones
out gratis.
Fred Williams
40515
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge! |
Some of them will tape the bit or tool inside their catalog and ship it that
way to also save you $$$$.
It is a real nice feeling when people are watching out for you.
JOhn
>From: "Brian Douglas" <bsponcil@belinblank.org>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge!
>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 12:43:24 -0600
>
>
>
>It's too bad that we've come to expect so little from the people we give
>money to but I had a similar experience with Cleaveland Tools the other
>day. I needed a threaded #12 drill bit but really nothing else. Naturally
>the bit is like $2 and the cheapest shipping on the website is $5. But
>what are you going to do, if you need the bit you need the bit. So I
>ordered two of 'em, entered my CC etc and later that day someone from
>Cleaveland called to ask if it was ok to send the bits 1st class mail for
>$.50 instead of charging the $5.
>
>It's only $5 in a $100,000 project but service like that goes a long way in
>my book.
>
>
>-Brian
>
>Iowa City, IA
>#40497
>Finishing Empennage
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 8:57 AM
>Subject: RV10-List: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge!
>
>
>>fiberglass panel from (duh). I called Gary Wirrell, who not only agreed to
>>cut them but offered to do it for FREE!!!!! Gary has been monitoring some
>>of the msg boards and had seen previous posts favorable to Aerotronics and
>>wanted to return a favor. WOW! and just when I was beginning to think that
>>customer service was dead.
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cabin cover fit pictures |
Us early adopters are missing out on all the good stuff starting to come
down the pike. If this does become available and a builder goes that route
just think of the "fibergalss education" they will miss.
Mark (N410MR Flying)
>From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 10:44:04 -0800
>
>Yes an aeronautics manufacturer is considering such a product.
>
>
>It cannot be a "carbon copy", beyond exact attachment points and
>exterior detail airflow. The construction features, door hinging,
>security latching and safety items are (In my opinion) an improvement.
>To the novice, it would not be identifiable until the door opens.
>
>
>When the first canopy is installed, it would have to be tested to
>standards.
>
>John Cox
>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>cloudvalley@comcast.net
>Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:55 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
>
>
>Hello John,
>
>So is anyone going to develop a "carbon copy" alternative to the
>fiberglass canopy? My wife are not nearly ready yet; we have only
>finished the empennage, but we are interested. Please let us know more.
>Thank you
>
>
>Brian and Ruth Preston
>
>#40666
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> >
> > I appreciate Steve's contrarian view and consternation. A
>balance in
> > intelligent conversation is a good thing. So was the comment
>on corrosion.
> >
> > Each may be found to be baseless but is heartfelt and
>therefore worth reading.
> > Toray is the supplier, the shortage is only when buying
>hundreds of bolts of
> > production for commercial airliner manufacture (we use the
>stuff at work every
> > day)and only momentary in time as to supply shortages. It is
>not holding up
> > Boeing sales one iota.
> >
> > The world of plastic planes has come a long way from Styrofoam
>glued slabs,
> > hotwire and paper cup mixing process in darkened ga rages. The
>White Knight was
> > a great example. The heavens are now our limit. Fitment and
>finish is a matter
> > of mold building, quality control and where the labor is
>applied. I feel many
> > would like to take advantage of the QB concept on labor
>application, just like
> > doing repetitive rivets on the umpteenth wing rib. The
>marketplace will sort
> > out each person's place. The 51% rule should insure that each
>builder has the
> > knowledge and skill set to maintain the safety and
>airworthiness of their kit.
> >
> > I respectfully conclude Steve that if VANS canopy is of higher
>quality than your
> > workmanship on your last aircraft, we are talking totally of
>different issues.
> > Integrated roll bars, air distribution plenum with overhead
>lights and switches,
> > fitment to within 0.010", improved placement and adhesion of
>windows, advanced
> > door hinges and lockable latch assemblies are the improvements
>being c onside red.
> > Oh yes, don't let me forget the work Dave McNeill did on
>improved shoulder
> > harness mount points. Did I mention dozens of hours not
>washing off fiberglass
> > dust from your arms and purging your respiratory system to
>catch a breath.
> >
> > Carbon fiber is superior for antenna ground planes and static
>dissipation. The
> > wingtips would likely remain fiberglass for antennae
>concealment. A simple tape
> > of fiberglass impregnated resin has resolved the contact
>between dissimilar
> > materials on the nobility table for performance military
>aircraft for years. I
> > am confident that corrosion is not going to be an issue. The
>product will not be
> > for everyone. Nor is it intended to be. There may be some who
>would actually
> > like to build their own mold and lay it up. To each their own
>product.
> >
> > I suspect Mark's question was answered within your response.
> >
> > John Cox
> > #4060 0
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>Mark Ritter
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:42 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
> >
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > Have you received your canopy?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >From:
> > >To:
> > >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
> > >Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 11:05:09 -0600
> > >
> > >I have been following the thread about the quality of the
>canopy with some
> > >consternation;
> > >
> > >1. Graphite is currently in very short supply, and conseq
>uently the price
> > >is unreasonably high, if you can even locate it. The
>likelyhood of finding
> > >enough to build even one canopy is problematic. The outlook
>is not much
> > >better, because Boeing is grabbing up everything on the
>market.
> > >
> > >2. I built a glass airplane a few years ago, and compared to
>the quality I
> > >got on that kit, the Van's canopy is excellent. Fiberglass
>requires
> > >shaping, and lots of surface preparation. To expect a bolt on
>fiberglass
> > >part is unrealistic, and contrary to the whole idea of kit
>building.
> > >
> > >Steve Mills
> > >RV-10 40486 Slow-build
> > >Naperville, Illinois
> > >finishing fuselage
> > >Do Not Archive
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > > ;cloud valley@comcast.net
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 10:42 AM
> > > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin cover fit pictures
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello Niko,
> > > My wife and I have just finished building our empennage kit;
>we have not
> > >ordered the rest of the kit yet. We are interested in the
>canopy/cowl
> > >discussions. Are these pictures you have of the fiberglass
>canopy? We are
> > >not sure what will transpire with Van's QC on theirs, or if
>you or someone
> > >will come up with something else. ( read your post about
>graphite). We are
> > >really naiive about this whole process, and are hoping this
>canopy/cowl
> > >problem will be resolved by the time we buy the rest of the
>kit. Thanks for
> > >your input.
> > > Brian and Ruth Preston
> > > #40666
> > >
> > > -------------- Original message ------- ------ ://www
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
The MSN Entertainment Guide to Golden Globes is here. Get all the scoop.
http://tv.msn.com/tv/globes2007/?icid=nctagline2
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: James Cowl Question |
Pascal,
When it comes to these specialty add-ons and upgrades, the thing
to keep in mind is that the generic, plans-built RV-10, with
only the standard creature comfort add-ons, will be quite a nice
airplane indeed. There are possible, and even some definite
benefits, depending on your needs or desires, that can be had
by changing props, pistons, cowlings, engines, fuel injection
systems, electrical ignition systems, and things like that.
There is one important thing to keep in mind though, for those
who have any budget worries. In probably most to nearly all of
these cases, the end-product incremental advantage of these
things is an extremely small percentage of the already
nice plane you would have built without those add-ons.
That's in no way knocking those products, as to the people
with them, they may place higher value on those features
than other builders. Some people like pretty 3-blade props,
some like electronic ignition, and so on. The chance though,
that you'll actually gain truly *meaningful* measurable
differences in knots, or many other measuring sticks, is really
small. So for those on tight budgets, you're not losing much
by going with the basics. That might be blasphemy to those
who truly love the upgrade, but honestly, the value added
is not "necessity"....it's in their personal desire.
For me, the most desirable upgrades were the electronic
ignition and fuel injection, allowing a great running
engine at low fuel flows. The rest was gravy. The
interesting thing is, I would bet that even if someone
picked the best prop, best cowl, Hi comp pistons, F.I.
and Elect. Ign., and a few more goodies and did them ALL,
they're still talking about owning a plane that flies
probably within 0-10 kts of the other guy, and both
guys will love their planes.
I myself am looking at hearing the results of the cowl tests,
because if those can statistically prove that ALL of the
proposed benefits come true, then I'll consider a cowl
swap at the right time and price in the future...it'll
depend on the actual numbers though, as I've already
determined that I've got plenty enough enjoyment factor
for me. ;)
So that doesn't answer your question, but just rest assured
that however you build it, you will probably find very
acceptable in the end.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Pascal wrote:
>
> In my days researching the Lancair ES (when it was still affordable to
> buy their kit and they didn't add the carbon canopy ;-) ) Aerocomposite
> was the blade of choice. I can understand when one is spending 225K for
> a composite plane that 13K (at the time) was nothing, but for a plane
> close to half that price is 14.4K really that much better in
> performance, appearance or reason one would go this way, than an MT for
> 7-8K?
>
> Honestly just asking so I know. Not questioning the decision to chose
> the more expensive blade just wondering in my cost cutting if 6K is
> worth the price.. For example, 6K in an engine may produce something to
> show for the difference in price.. what about this blade?
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:09 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
>
>
>> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>>
>> If you go with a MT prop, you can specify the 14" spinner from MT for no
>> extra charge.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:28 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
>>
>>
>> I ordered a 14" spinner from Aero Composites
>> http://www.aerocomposites.com/ , the same place I'm getting my prop
>> from.
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>
>>> Deems,
>>>
>>> What are you using for a spinner for your James Cowl?
>>>
>>> -Ben Westfall
>>>
>>> Portland, OR
>>>
>>> #40579 - gas tanks
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I think that is correct.....3 degrees reflex for the flaps and Aileron.
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 11:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
<drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
Question about the aileron rigging and what is normal.
First: On page 23-9 I have attached the flaps and let them but up
against the W-1007 rear spar doubler plate. The ailerons then match up
perfectly with the ends of the flaps. However, when I sight down the
airfoil profile, it looks like the flap is a couple of degrees Up. Is
this the normal starting place? Won't that make fitting the wingtip
fiberglass a lot more fun?
Second: kudos to the guys at trutrack. I ended up with the wrong
brackets for installing the roll servo and they sent the correct ones
out gratis.
Fred Williams
40515
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Hot off the CNC Lathe |
Guys,
Here is another solution to the Axle Extenders for the wheelpants on the RV10.
Since the Vans supplied extenders are having problems in the field, my brother
Jim (who is an engineer) came up with a solution.
The pics below show his design. The axle extender rod is hollow in the center.
This setup is lighter, thats right, lighter in weight than Van's nut and bolt
on extender. It doesn't look like it in the pics, but it is! And it's stronger
too!
The one piece billet axle rod screws onto the axle. The Capture washer was machine
to fit exactly on the axle rod extender and is bonded onto the wheel pant
just as Vans has you do with his. The capture washer distributes the loads
on the wheelpant with this plug and socket design.
If you want a set, my brother Jim is selling them for $150.00 a pair plus $5
for shipping. Call him at 302-250-7872 or email him at
czachorowski@mindspring.com
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88366#88366
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06871_155.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06874_109.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06866_210.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06862_623.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06853_357.jpg
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Rigging |
Fred,
The full-up position of the flaps on the RV-10 is -3 degrees,
the "reflex" position. If you get the flap position system, your
first click of flaps down gives you 0 (zero) degrees. So
what you're seeing is by design.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>
> Question about the aileron rigging and what is normal.
>
> First: On page 23-9 I have attached the flaps and let them but up
> against the W-1007 rear spar doubler plate. The ailerons then match up
> perfectly with the ends of the flaps. However, when I sight down the
> airfoil profile, it looks like the flap is a couple of degrees Up. Is
> this the normal starting place? Won't that make fitting the wingtip
> fiberglass a lot more fun?
> Second: kudos to the guys at trutrack. I ended up with the wrong
> brackets for installing the roll servo and they sent the correct ones
> out gratis.
>
> Fred Williams
> 40515
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Rigging |
Tim - So with the stick in the neutral position the aileron trailing edges
should be lined up with the flap trailing edges when the flaps are in the
"0" position? Still doing some minor rigging.
Mark
>From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:53:14 -0600
>
>
>Fred,
>
>The full-up position of the flaps on the RV-10 is -3 degrees,
>the "reflex" position. If you get the flap position system, your
>first click of flaps down gives you 0 (zero) degrees. So
>what you're seeing is by design.
>
>Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>do not archive
>
>
>Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>><drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>>
>>Question about the aileron rigging and what is normal.
>>
>>First: On page 23-9 I have attached the flaps and let them but up against
>>the W-1007 rear spar doubler plate. The ailerons then match up perfectly
>>with the ends of the flaps. However, when I sight down the airfoil
>>profile, it looks like the flap is a couple of degrees Up. Is this the
>>normal starting place? Won't that make fitting the wingtip fiberglass a
>>lot more fun?
>>Second: kudos to the guys at trutrack. I ended up with the wrong brackets
>>for installing the roll servo and they sent the correct ones out gratis.
>>
>>Fred Williams
>>40515
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series. Who will win?
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I think it should be in the reflex position -3 degrees. But I am not to
that step and will be looking forward to Tim's answer.
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
Tim - So with the stick in the neutral position the aileron trailing edges
should be lined up with the flap trailing edges when the flaps are in the
"0" position? Still doing some minor rigging.
Mark
>From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:53:14 -0600
>
>
>Fred,
>
>The full-up position of the flaps on the RV-10 is -3 degrees,
>the "reflex" position. If you get the flap position system, your
>first click of flaps down gives you 0 (zero) degrees. So
>what you're seeing is by design.
>
>Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>do not archive
>
>
>Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>><drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>>
>>Question about the aileron rigging and what is normal.
>>
>>First: On page 23-9 I have attached the flaps and let them but up against
>>the W-1007 rear spar doubler plate. The ailerons then match up perfectly
>>with the ends of the flaps. However, when I sight down the airfoil
>>profile, it looks like the flap is a couple of degrees Up. Is this the
>>normal starting place? Won't that make fitting the wingtip fiberglass a
>>lot more fun?
>>Second: kudos to the guys at trutrack. I ended up with the wrong brackets
>>for installing the roll servo and they sent the correct ones out gratis.
>>
>>Fred Williams
>>40515
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series. Who will win?
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Axle Extender length needed |
For those U-1004B axle extenders that hold the wheel
fairings on.....what is the overall length of the
original parts as supplied by Van's?
I just happened to give an old friend a ride this last
weekend and he told me he has his own lathe and if I
ever wanted anything made, just ask. So, I shot him
the idea of the axle extenders, and he says he'll do
it for free for me including the aluminum. So, I can't
resist that deal and although I feel like I'm taking
advantage of him, I'm going to "let" him make them for
me. ;) All I need is the original part length.
I'm going to have him make them 1.25" diameter on the
fat end, tapering quickly (kind of like an intake valve
but not that quick) to 7/8" to save weight. Then
drill and tap the outside end for (AN4) 1/4-28 like the
originals so I don't have to change screws, but the
inside end I guess I'll make (AN5) 5/16-24 for a little
extra toughness.
If you can shoot me the length though, he wants to get
the material ordered for pickup tomorrow. Thanks
to whoever can reply.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Rigging |
I think that's how I lined mine up. That way when in cruise
you have everything lined up, in theory. In practice,
I think there is some loading on the ailerons that
maybe changes the alignment a bit. I didn't want my ailerons
to be drooped below the fully retracted flaps though, to get
the least drag. It's been a looong time since I aligned mine
now, so don't take it as gospel truth, but I think that's
how it is.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Mark Ritter wrote:
>
> Tim - So with the stick in the neutral position the aileron trailing
> edges should be lined up with the flap trailing edges when the flaps are
> in the "0" position? Still doing some minor rigging.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
>> Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:53:14 -0600
>>
>>
>> Fred,
>>
>> The full-up position of the flaps on the RV-10 is -3 degrees,
>> the "reflex" position. If you get the flap position system, your
>> first click of flaps down gives you 0 (zero) degrees. So
>> what you're seeing is by design.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>>> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>>>
>>> Question about the aileron rigging and what is normal.
>>>
>>> First: On page 23-9 I have attached the flaps and let them but up
>>> against the W-1007 rear spar doubler plate. The ailerons then match
>>> up perfectly with the ends of the flaps. However, when I sight down
>>> the airfoil profile, it looks like the flap is a couple of degrees
>>> Up. Is this the normal starting place? Won't that make fitting the
>>> wingtip fiberglass a lot more fun?
>>> Second: kudos to the guys at trutrack. I ended up with the wrong
>>> brackets for installing the roll servo and they sent the correct ones
>>> out gratis.
>>>
>>> Fred Williams
>>> 40515
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series. Who will win?
>
>
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Hot off the CNC Lathe |
For those of us that have already DRILLED the hub for the cotter pin wha
t would we do? It does not appear your solution has a cotter pin hole d
rilled into it.
Dean
________________________________________________________________________
FREE Reminder Service - NEW from AmericanGreetings.com
Click HERE and never forget a Birthday or Anniversary again!
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=197335&u=http://www.americangreetings.c
om/products/online_calendar.pd?c=uol5752
<html><P>For those of us that have already DRILLED the hub for the cotte
r pin what would we do? It does not appear your solution has a cot
ter pin hole drilled into it.</P>
<P>Dean</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
<a href="http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=197335&u=http://www.american
greetings.com/products/online_calendar.pd?c=uol5752"><B>FREE</B> Remin
der Service - NEW from AmericanGreetings.com<br>
<B>Click HERE</B> and never forget a Birthday or Anniversary again!</a><
br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Hot off the CNC Lathe |
Dean,
The holes will be drilled in at the same dimensions as Van's cap. These pics
were taken literally 1 hour before I posted them. The axle extender was still
warm from the CNC. Jim will drill the holes in the production models. They
will fit right on!
Joe
[quote="ddddsp1(at)juno.com"]For those of us that have already DRILLED the hub
for the cotter pin what would we do? It does not appear your solution has a cotter
pin hole drilled into it.
Dean
________________________________________________________________________
FREE Reminder Service - NEW from AmericanGreetings.com
Click HERE and never forget a Birthday or Anniversary again!
> [b]
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88395#88395
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I think that was Tim's reply. The aileron trailing edges should line up
with the flaps in the -3 reflex position.
Mark
>From: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:53:51 -0700
>
>
>I think it should be in the reflex position -3 degrees. But I am not to
>that step and will be looking forward to Tim's answer.
>
>Rene' Felker
>40322
>N423CF
>801-721-6080
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
>Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 1:30 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
>
>
>Tim - So with the stick in the neutral position the aileron trailing edges
>should be lined up with the flap trailing edges when the flaps are in the
>"0" position? Still doing some minor rigging.
>
>Mark
>
>
> >From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
> >Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:53:14 -0600
> >
> >
> >Fred,
> >
> >The full-up position of the flaps on the RV-10 is -3 degrees,
> >the "reflex" position. If you get the flap position system, your
> >first click of flaps down gives you 0 (zero) degrees. So
> >what you're seeing is by design.
> >
> >Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> >do not archive
> >
> >
> >Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> >><drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
> >>
> >>Question about the aileron rigging and what is normal.
> >>
> >>First: On page 23-9 I have attached the flaps and let them but up
>against
> >>the W-1007 rear spar doubler plate. The ailerons then match up
>perfectly
> >>with the ends of the flaps. However, when I sight down the airfoil
> >>profile, it looks like the flap is a couple of degrees Up. Is this the
> >>normal starting place? Won't that make fitting the wingtip fiberglass a
> >>lot more fun?
> >>Second: kudos to the guys at trutrack. I ended up with the wrong
>brackets
>
> >>for installing the roll servo and they sent the correct ones out gratis.
> >>
> >>Fred Williams
> >>40515
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series. Who will win?
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Valentines Day -- Shop for gifts that spell L-O-V-E at MSN Shopping
http://shopping.msn.com/content/shp/?ctId=8323,ptnrid=37,ptnrdata=24095&tcode=wlmtagline
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Has anyone installed the fiberglass window trim from Accuracy Avionics? I
am trying to decide whether to get them or not.=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0AFun wit
h fiberglass
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Changed to prop decision |
For me, The prop decision will depend upon an ability to get specific
information from Aerocomposite on the vibration differential compared to the
Hartzell. I would prefer the Aerocomposite 2 blade if the vibration
reduction is significant. I personally don't believe in the long term
viability of a wooden prop in consideration of my type of flying and in the
area I live. (High Moisture, 12% equilibrium moisture content) I just had a
catastrophic engine failure in a Cessna 310 where the jug connecting bolts
vibrated loose and the #1jug, part of the exhaust and part of the case
departed the airplane in flight. Both the FAA and Avemco said that is was
"not uncommon" in both the Continental and the Lycoming engines.
David Boone 40138
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
>
> In my days researching the Lancair ES (when it was still affordable to buy
> their kit and they didn't add the carbon canopy ;-) ) Aerocomposite was
> the blade of choice. I can understand when one is spending 225K for a
> composite plane that 13K (at the time) was nothing, but for a plane close
> to half that price is 14.4K really that much better in performance,
> appearance or reason one would go this way, than an MT for 7-8K?
>
> Honestly just asking so I know. Not questioning the decision to chose the
> more expensive blade just wondering in my cost cutting if 6K is worth the
> price.. For example, 6K in an engine may produce something to show for the
> difference in price.. what about this blade?
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:09 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
>
>
>> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>>
>> If you go with a MT prop, you can specify the 14" spinner from MT for no
>> extra charge.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:28 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
>>
>>
>> I ordered a 14" spinner from Aero Composites
>> http://www.aerocomposites.com/ , the same place I'm getting my prop
>> from.
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>
>>> Deems,
>>>
>>> What are you using for a spinner for your James Cowl?
>>>
>>> -Ben Westfall
>>>
>>> Portland, OR
>>>
>>> #40579 - gas tanks
>>>
>>>*
>>>
>>>
>>>*
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
If you haven't installed your windows yet, it's not all that hard to
make you're own. Gary Speceter told me how @ Osh last year and I made
some up for me. check here for how it did it.
http://deemsrv10.com/43-windowrings.htm.
Depending on how Accuracy trimed the openings for the windows, there
could be some variance between planes.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Niko wrote:
> Has anyone installed the fiberglass window trim from Accuracy
> Avionics? I am trying to decide whether to get them or not.
>
> Niko
> 40188
> Fun with fiberglass
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cleaveland Shipping was: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free |
of charge!
Thanks Brian for the kind words, please share your secrets on building
progress while having a new child :)
We try and follow the 'do unto others...' approach. I know I hate paying
big shipping for a little part. I have finally talked my wife into looking
at the shipping cost before she decides buying something online is a great
deal.
To clarify our shipping we are able to ship many things via mail. However
the website is not nearly as smart as the post office employees that write
those 4 volume set 3" thick per volume list of rules. We had terrible
errors at first when we offered First Class postage on the web. Customers
would choose it because it would only cost $0.53 to ship an entire kit. So
we had to remove it as an option.
If you don't care how it is shipped but want it the cheapest choose 'BST -
CAT will pick the best way' this will show you the UPS ground rate, but it
cues us to look and see if there is a better way, and we do it without
asking. You can also type a note in the 'special instructions' section of
the check out to specify that you want it a special way, such as 'please buy
this a seat on the next United flight into LA so that I can use it after
work'. We are always happy to accommodate (this time of year I might share
the seat with the tool). More common special instructions are: "Please use
US mail as this address does not accept UPS" or "Ship cheapest way to arrive
by ______"
I think most other vendors are willing to accommodate special requests also.
Thanks again for everyone's support.
Mike
On 1/17/07, John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> wrote:
>
>
> Some of them will tape the bit or tool inside their catalog and ship it
> that
> way to also save you $$$$.
>
> It is a real nice feeling when people are watching out for you.
>
> JOhn
>
>
> >From: "Brian Douglas" <bsponcil@belinblank.org>
> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge!
> >Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 12:43:24 -0600
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >It's too bad that we've come to expect so little from the people we give
> >money to but I had a similar experience with Cleaveland Tools the other
> >day. I needed a threaded #12 drill bit but really nothing
> else. Naturally
> >the bit is like $2 and the cheapest shipping on the website is $5. But
> >what are you going to do, if you need the bit you need the bit. So I
> >ordered two of 'em, entered my CC etc and later that day someone from
> >Cleaveland called to ask if it was ok to send the bits 1st class mail for
> >$.50 instead of charging the $5.
> >
> >It's only $5 in a $100,000 project but service like that goes a long way
> in
> >my book.
> >
> >
> >-Brian
> >
> >Iowa City, IA
> >#40497
> >Finishing Empennage
> >
> >----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 8:57 AM
> >Subject: RV10-List: Spelling/Typing lessons offered free of charge!
> >
> >
> >>fiberglass panel from (duh). I called Gary Wirrell, who not only agreed
> to
> >>cut them but offered to do it for FREE!!!!! Gary has been monitoring
> some
> >>of the msg boards and had seen previous posts favorable to Aerotronics
> and
> >>wanted to return a favor. WOW! and just when I was beginning to think
> that
> >>customer service was dead.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
515-432-6794
www.cleavelandtool.com
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I sure wish I had known that little trick of Deems prior to installing
my rear windows! Well...at least it's not too late for the remaining
three. So what are they charging for the trim? I sent them an e-mail a
couple of weeks ago and didn't get a response.
Niko wrote:
> Has anyone installed the fiberglass window trim from Accuracy
> Avionics? I am trying to decide whether to get them or not.
>
> Niko
> 40188
> Fun with fiberglass
> *
>
>
> *
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I sure wish I had known that little trick of Deems prior to installing
my rear windows! Well...at least it's not too late for the remaining
three. So what are they charging for the trim? I sent them an e-mail a
couple of weeks ago and didn't get a response.
Brian
#40308
Niko wrote:
> Has anyone installed the fiberglass window trim from Accuracy
> Avionics? I am trying to decide whether to get them or not.
>
> Niko
> 40188
> Fun with fiberglass
> *
>
>
> *
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Tim/Rene' Thanks.
As with most things if one follows the directions it works out. It just
didn't look quite right. And, I wish in the next revision Vans would
add a comment to that effect in the plans.
Fred.
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
With the flaps in the -3 or full up position the ailerons should be aligned with
the flap. You can tell if they are all the way up because they should bottom
out on the rear spar doubler. I know because I flew to Oshkosh with them aligned
in the 0 deg position and lost about 6 mph of top speed. Randy 40006
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 2:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
I think that was Tim's reply. The aileron trailing edges should line up
with the flaps in the -3 reflex position.
Mark
>From: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:53:51 -0700
>
>
>I think it should be in the reflex position -3 degrees. But I am not to
>that step and will be looking forward to Tim's answer.
>
>Rene' Felker
>40322
>N423CF
>801-721-6080
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
>Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 1:30 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
>
>
>Tim - So with the stick in the neutral position the aileron trailing edges
>should be lined up with the flap trailing edges when the flaps are in the
>"0" position? Still doing some minor rigging.
>
>Mark
>
>
> >From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging
> >Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 13:53:14 -0600
> >
> >
> >Fred,
> >
> >The full-up position of the flaps on the RV-10 is -3 degrees,
> >the "reflex" position. If you get the flap position system, your
> >first click of flaps down gives you 0 (zero) degrees. So
> >what you're seeing is by design.
> >
> >Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> >do not archive
> >
> >
> >Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> >><drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
> >>
> >>Question about the aileron rigging and what is normal.
> >>
> >>First: On page 23-9 I have attached the flaps and let them but up
>against
> >>the W-1007 rear spar doubler plate. The ailerons then match up
>perfectly
> >>with the ends of the flaps. However, when I sight down the airfoil
> >>profile, it looks like the flap is a couple of degrees Up. Is this the
> >>normal starting place? Won't that make fitting the wingtip fiberglass a
> >>lot more fun?
> >>Second: kudos to the guys at trutrack. I ended up with the wrong
>brackets
>
> >>for installing the roll servo and they sent the correct ones out gratis.
> >>
> >>Fred Williams
> >>40515
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series. Who will win?
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Valentine's Day -- Shop for gifts that spell L-O-V-E at MSN Shopping
http://shopping.msn.com/content/shp/?ctId=8323,ptnrid=37,ptnrdata=24095&tcode=wlmtagline
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Axle Extender length needed |
I don't have it here in front of me but I measured
ours last week and 3 3/8 inches is what I remember.
Jerry
--- Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
> <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> For those U-1004B axle extenders that hold the wheel
> fairings on.....what is the overall length of the
> original parts as supplied by Van's?
>
> I just happened to give an old friend a ride this
> last
> weekend and he told me he has his own lathe and if I
> ever wanted anything made, just ask. So, I shot him
> the idea of the axle extenders, and he says he'll do
> it for free for me including the aluminum. So, I
> can't
> resist that deal and although I feel like I'm taking
> advantage of him, I'm going to "let" him make them
> for
> me. ;) All I need is the original part length.
>
> I'm going to have him make them 1.25" diameter on
> the
> fat end, tapering quickly (kind of like an intake
> valve
> but not that quick) to 7/8" to save weight. Then
> drill and tap the outside end for (AN4) 1/4-28 like
> the
> originals so I don't have to change screws, but the
> inside end I guess I'll make (AN5) 5/16-24 for a
> little
> extra toughness.
>
> If you can shoot me the length though, he wants to
> get
> the material ordered for pickup tomorrow. Thanks
> to whoever can reply.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545367
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Deems,=0A=0AThats very nice. I will try that also.=0A=0ABy the way, I bel
ieve the cost from Accuracy is $295 for a set. I am not sure how many you
get though. I don't think you get the windshield fairing it might only be
the two side windows in the Cabin Cover.=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A----- Or
iginal Message ----=0AFrom: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>=0ATo: rv10-lis
t@matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 6:13:05 PM=0ASubject: R
vis <deemsdavis@cox.net>=0A=0AIf you haven't installed your windows yet, it
's not all that hard to =0Amake you're own. Gary Speceter told me how @ Osh
last year and I made =0Asome up for me. check here for how it did it. =0Ah
ttp://deemsrv10.com/43-windowrings.htm.=0A=0ADepending on how Accuracy tri
med the openings for the windows, there =0Acould be some variance between p
lanes.=0A=0ADeems Davis # 406=0AFinishing - ( A Misnomer ! )=0Ahttp://deems
rv10.com/=0A=0ANiko wrote:=0A=0A> Has anyone installed the fiberglass windo
w trim from Accuracy =0A> Avionics? I am trying to decide whether to get t
hem or not.=0A> =0A> Niko=0A> 40188=0A> Fun with fiberglass=0A>=0A>*=0A>
====
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
So Deems, when you bend the fiberglass over the window towards the
outside. So the frame makes the window opening slightly smaller.
What did you use to trim the "green" fiberglass flush with the outside,
just a razor blade?
Did you use plastic wrap as peel ply to smooth the inside?
Larry
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> If you haven't installed your windows yet, it's not all that hard to
> make you're own. Gary Speceter told me how @ Osh last year and I made
> some up for me. check here for how it did it.
> http://deemsrv10.com/43-windowrings.htm.
>
> Depending on how Accuracy trimed the openings for the windows, there
> could be some variance between planes.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Niko wrote:
>
>> Has anyone installed the fiberglass window trim from Accuracy
>> Avionics? I am trying to decide whether to get them or not.
>>
>> Niko
>> 40188
>> Fun with fiberglass
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
From the looks of their site you get 5 pieces:
http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html
Brian
Niko wrote:
> Deems,
>
> Thats very nice. I will try that also.
>
> By the way, I believe the cost from Accuracy is $295 for a set. I am
> not sure how many you get though. I don't think you get the
> windshield fairing it might only be the two side windows in the Cabin
> Cover.
>
> Niko
> 40188
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 6:13:05 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Window Trim
>
>
> If you haven't installed your windows yet, it's not all that hard to
> make you're own. Gary Speceter told me how @ Osh last year and I made
> some up for me. check here for how it did it.
> http://deemsrv10.com/43-windowrings.htm.
>
> Depending on how Accuracy trimed the openings for the windows, there
> could be some variance between planes.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Niko wrote:
>
> > Has anyone installed the fiberglass window trim from Accuracy
> > Avionics? I am trying to decide whether to get them or not.
> >
> > Niko
> > 40188
> > Fun with -->
>
> <http://forums.matronics.com/>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Axle Extender length needed |
3 5/16 is the normal axle extender. We made the replacement 3 3/8 to
eliminate the steel washer on the exle nut side, since the load does not
need to be relieved by the washer. We made it the same thickness as the
washer the whole way out (adds a couple of ounces total) with flats for a
wrench in the middle. Making the inside threads 5/16's is what we did also.
Anybody with access to a lathe and just the basic skills could make these in
no time flat, especially if you keep it a cylinder and don't want to taper
it, but either way it will work fine and still be easy to do. Again, the
flats can be added with a file if you don't know how to use a mill, or you
could drill a hole through and use a rod to hold it while you tighten the
bolt on the axle side.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 4:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
For those U-1004B axle extenders that hold the wheel
fairings on.....what is the overall length of the
original parts as supplied by Van's?
I just happened to give an old friend a ride this last
weekend and he told me he has his own lathe and if I
ever wanted anything made, just ask. So, I shot him
the idea of the axle extenders, and he says he'll do
it for free for me including the aluminum. So, I can't
resist that deal and although I feel like I'm taking
advantage of him, I'm going to "let" him make them for
me. ;) All I need is the original part length.
I'm going to have him make them 1.25" diameter on the
fat end, tapering quickly (kind of like an intake valve
but not that quick) to 7/8" to save weight. Then
drill and tap the outside end for (AN4) 1/4-28 like the
originals so I don't have to change screws, but the
inside end I guess I'll make (AN5) 5/16-24 for a little
extra toughness.
If you can shoot me the length though, he wants to get
the material ordered for pickup tomorrow. Thanks
to whoever can reply.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
--
4:36 PM
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | James Cowl Question |
One value of the more expensive prop, of course, is perceived value. One
car is perceived more valuable than another sometimes just because it cost
more, not necessarily because it is better. If you gain performance with
the 14.4K prop, I doubt it will be 8K worth (all IMHO). For that price you
could get two Hartzels and have a 4-blade. :-) I personally have an aversion
to composite props, but that's all I say. My dad was with an organization
in Mali with a Caravan with composite props and they didn't last worth
anything with the sand. That was a long time ago, but the memory sticks.
So, I would recommend going with the aluminum cheap prop, but that's just
me. The composite looks cool, but at 2,700rpm and 200mph, you'll hardly
notice. Oh yeah, and with the aluminum prop you don't have to do all the
pinhole filling and sanding. That's enough of a reason in itself. :-)
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
In my days researching the Lancair ES (when it was still affordable to buy
their kit and they didn't add the carbon canopy ;-) ) Aerocomposite was the
blade of choice. I can understand when one is spending 225K for a composite
plane that 13K (at the time) was nothing, but for a plane close to half that
price is 14.4K really that much better in performance, appearance or reason
one would go this way, than an MT for 7-8K?
Honestly just asking so I know. Not questioning the decision to chose the
more expensive blade just wondering in my cost cutting if 6K is worth the
price.. For example, 6K in an engine may produce something to show for the
difference in price.. what about this blade?
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> If you go with a MT prop, you can specify the 14" spinner from MT for no
> extra charge.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:28 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
>
>
> I ordered a 14" spinner from Aero Composites
> http://www.aerocomposites.com/ , the same place I'm getting my prop
> from.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Ben Westfall wrote:
>
>> Deems,
>>
>> What are you using for a spinner for your James Cowl?
>>
>> -Ben Westfall
>>
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> #40579 - gas tanks
>>
>>*
>>
>>
>>*
>>
>
>
>
--
4:36 PM
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Hot off the CNC Lathe |
This is, obviously to me, a perfect solution. I just don't want to spend
the $155. For those who don't mind the price tag, this is definitely the
way to go. Hello, Van's, it's time for ya'll to do something like this.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 2:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hot off the CNC Lathe
Guys,
Here is another solution to the Axle Extenders for the wheelpants on the
RV10. Since the Vans supplied extenders are having problems in the field,
my brother Jim (who is an engineer) came up with a solution.
The pics below show his design. The axle extender rod is hollow in the
center. This setup is lighter, thats right, lighter in weight than Van's
nut and bolt on extender. It doesn't look like it in the pics, but it is!
And it's stronger too!
The one piece billet axle rod screws onto the axle. The Capture washer
was machine to fit exactly on the axle rod extender and is bonded onto the
wheel pant just as Vans has you do with his. The capture washer distributes
the loads on the wheelpant with this plug and socket design.
If you want a set, my brother Jim is selling them for $150.00 a pair plus
$5 for shipping. Call him at 302-250-7872 or email him at
czachorowski@mindspring.com
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88366#88366
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06871_155.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06874_109.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06866_210.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06862_623.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06853_357.jpg
--
4:36 PM
Message 42
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
An old scissors (still sharp but not your significant others favorite)
is your best bet.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Window Trim
So Deems, when you bend the fiberglass over the window towards the
outside. So the frame makes the window opening slightly smaller.
What did you use to trim the "green" fiberglass flush with the outside,
just a razor blade?
Did you use plastic wrap as peel ply to smooth the inside?
Larry
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> If you haven't installed your windows yet, it's not all that hard to
> make you're own. Gary Speceter told me how @ Osh last year and I made
> some up for me. check here for how it did it.
> http://deemsrv10.com/43-windowrings.htm.
>
> Depending on how Accuracy trimed the openings for the windows, there
> could be some variance between planes.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Niko wrote:
>
>> Has anyone installed the fiberglass window trim from Accuracy
>> Avionics? I am trying to decide whether to get them or not.
>>
>> Niko
>> 40188
>> Fun with fiberglass
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
Message 43
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Hot off the CNC Lathe |
Jesse
The easy way is to take 1" bar stock, cut it a little over size in
length, use a disc sander and square both ends to final length, use a
drill press and drill both ends the appropriate hole size, tap them and
you are done. About 15 minutes and about $5 bucks in parts, the shipping
is the killer.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 9:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hot off the CNC Lathe
This is, obviously to me, a perfect solution. I just don't want to
spend
the $155. For those who don't mind the price tag, this is definitely
the
way to go. Hello, Van's, it's time for ya'll to do something like this.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 2:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hot off the CNC Lathe
Guys,
Here is another solution to the Axle Extenders for the wheelpants on
the
RV10. Since the Vans supplied extenders are having problems in the
field,
my brother Jim (who is an engineer) came up with a solution.
The pics below show his design. The axle extender rod is hollow in
the
center. This setup is lighter, thats right, lighter in weight than
Van's
nut and bolt on extender. It doesn't look like it in the pics, but it
is!
And it's stronger too!
The one piece billet axle rod screws onto the axle. The Capture
washer
was machine to fit exactly on the axle rod extender and is bonded onto
the
wheel pant just as Vans has you do with his. The capture washer
distributes
the loads on the wheelpant with this plug and socket design.
If you want a set, my brother Jim is selling them for $150.00 a pair
plus
$5 for shipping. Call him at 302-250-7872 or email him at
czachorowski@mindspring.com
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88366#88366
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06871_155.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06874_109.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06866_210.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06862_623.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06853_357.jpg
--
4:36 PM
Message 44
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: James Cowl Question... more on prop selection |
This falls in the "for what it's worth" category, but when I had my
Combat Fighter Experience" at Fullerton Airport a few months back,
they had Extra 300's with both Hartzel metal props and MT composite
props. I asked about their preference, and they said they preferred
the metal props by far. The MT props were much more maintenance
intensive and for them, the performance benefits weren't worth it.
These planes are running hard all day long, so they are placing a
much higher demand on them than I imagine we would and I'm sure it's
possible that the decreased maintenance interval is something we
wouldn't notice.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
... waiting for the Tech Counselor before I close up my wings.
Do Not Archive
On Jan 17, 2007, at 5:51 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> One value of the more expensive prop, of course, is perceived
> value. One car is perceived more valuable than another sometimes
> just because it cost more, not necessarily because it is better.
> If you gain performance with the 14.4K prop, I doubt it will be 8K
> worth (all IMHO). For that price you could get two Hartzels and
> have a 4-blade. J I personally have an aversion to composite props,
> but that=92s all I say. My dad was with an organization in Mali with
> a Caravan with composite props and they didn=92t last worth anything
> with the sand. That was a long time ago, but the memory sticks.
> So, I would recommend going with the aluminum cheap prop, but
> that=92s just me. The composite looks cool, but at 2,700rpm and
> 200mph, you=92ll hardly notice. Oh yeah, and with the aluminum prop
> you don=92t have to do all the pinhole filling and sanding. That=92s
> enough of a reason in itself. J
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>
> jesse@saintaviation.com
>
> www.saintaviation.com
>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
>
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 1:14 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
>
>
> In my days researching the Lancair ES (when it was still affordable
> to buy
>
> their kit and they didn't add the carbon canopy ;-) ) Aerocomposite
> was the
>
> blade of choice. I can understand when one is spending 225K for a
> composite
>
> plane that 13K (at the time) was nothing, but for a plane close to
> half that
>
> price is 14.4K really that much better in performance, appearance
> or reason
>
> one would go this way, than an MT for 7-8K?
>
> Honestly just asking so I know. Not questioning the decision to
> chose the
>
> more expensive blade just wondering in my cost cutting if 6K is
> worth the
>
> price.. For example, 6K in an engine may produce something to show
> for the
>
> difference in price.. what about this blade?
>
> Pascal
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:09 AM
>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
>
>
>
> > <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> >
>
> > If you go with a MT prop, you can specify the 14" spinner from MT
> for no
>
> > extra charge.
>
> >
>
> > Michael
>
> >
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems
> Davis
>
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:28 PM
>
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowl Question
>
> >
>
>
> >
>
> > I ordered a 14" spinner from Aero Composites
>
> > http://www.aerocomposites.com/ , the same place I'm getting my prop
>
> > from.
>
> >
>
> > Deems Davis # 406
>
> > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>
> > http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> >
>
> > Ben Westfall wrote:
>
> >
>
> >> Deems,
>
> >>
>
> >> What are you using for a spinner for your James Cowl?
>
> >>
>
> >> -Ben Westfall
>
> >>
>
> >> Portland, OR
>
> >>
>
> >> #40579 - gas tanks
>
> >>
>
> >>*
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>*
>
> >>
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> --
>
> ========================
> ========================
Message 45
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I just used a razor blade to trim the FG when green. It's a timing sort
of thing, too soon and it's gooey, too late and its' ..... too late. I
didn't use anything on the inside surface as my intent is to cover them
with Tweed auto upholstery fabric, same as the headliner/ohead console..
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> So Deems, when you bend the fiberglass over the window towards the
> outside. So the frame makes the window opening slightly smaller. What
> did you use to trim the "green" fiberglass flush with the outside,
> just a razor blade? Did you use plastic wrap as peel ply to smooth the
> inside?
>
> Larry
>
> Deems Davis wrote:
>
>>
>> If you haven't installed your windows yet, it's not all that hard to
>> make you're own. Gary Speceter told me how @ Osh last year and I made
>> some up for me. check here for how it did it.
>> http://deemsrv10.com/43-windowrings.htm.
>>
>> Depending on how Accuracy trimed the openings for the windows, there
>> could be some variance between planes.
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>> Niko wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone installed the fiberglass window trim from Accuracy
>>> Avionics? I am trying to decide whether to get them or not.
>>>
>>> Niko
>>> 40188
>>> Fun with fiberglass
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 46
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Hot off the CNC Lathe |
Glad to see I'm not the only one that is beginning to think some of
these aftermarket parts are getting a bit steep in price for something
that simple. I mean it can't take a lot of stock or machine time for
some of this stuff.
My suggestion to everyone is to remember you are building an airplane.
It takes comments like Dan's below and Deems to remind even me of that
sometimes.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 8:40 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hot off the CNC Lathe
<LloydDR@wernerco.com>
Jesse
The easy way is to take 1" bar stock, cut it a little over size in
length, use a disc sander and square both ends to final length, use a
drill press and drill both ends the appropriate hole size, tap them and
you are done. About 15 minutes and about $5 bucks in parts, the shipping
is the killer.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 9:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hot off the CNC Lathe
This is, obviously to me, a perfect solution. I just don't want to
spend
the $155. For those who don't mind the price tag, this is definitely
the
way to go. Hello, Van's, it's time for ya'll to do something like this.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 2:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hot off the CNC Lathe
Guys,
Here is another solution to the Axle Extenders for the wheelpants on
the
RV10. Since the Vans supplied extenders are having problems in the
field,
my brother Jim (who is an engineer) came up with a solution.
The pics below show his design. The axle extender rod is hollow in
the
center. This setup is lighter, thats right, lighter in weight than
Van's
nut and bolt on extender. It doesn't look like it in the pics, but it
is!
And it's stronger too!
The one piece billet axle rod screws onto the axle. The Capture
washer
was machine to fit exactly on the axle rod extender and is bonded onto
the
wheel pant just as Vans has you do with his. The capture washer
distributes
the loads on the wheelpant with this plug and socket design.
If you want a set, my brother Jim is selling them for $150.00 a pair
plus
$5 for shipping. Call him at 302-250-7872 or email him at
czachorowski@mindspring.com
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88366#88366
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06871_155.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06874_109.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06866_210.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06862_623.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06853_357.jpg
--
4:36 PM
Message 47
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: James Cowl Question |
If you go and check the race results for AirVenture cup you will find
that the winners and top finishers have two things in common. A James
cowl/plenum, and an Aero Composite Prop.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 48
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Axle Extender length needed |
Great feedback Jesse. I attached my drawing that he's going to use.
I did taper it to save some bulk and weight. Didn't put flats on
it because it's a one-shot thing...I should be able to put it
in a pliers with rubber jaws and put the bolt in. I'm going to
leave mine using the steel washer anyway, as it doesn't hurt
anything to have it there. I'm just going to swap it for an
AN5 sized washer. There shouldn't be any wear between the
metals, but after my axle wear problem I'm going to keep
the steel there to prevent anything from happening to my axle
nut should the thing wiggle and vibrate at all if it wasn't
tight enough.
The one part I question yet about the drawing is the hole that the
cotter pin goes through. I'm not sure how long the proper sized
cotter pins are (I buy long ones and clip them to length), so I
am preparing to possibly countersink part of the hole to hold
the head end of the cotter pin to give more length if necessary.
I won't drill out the hole larger if I don't have to though.
I haven't had any problems with mine in 190 hours, but I've only
landed on grass and rough runways about 15 times or so. I don't
personally believe everyone absolutely needs to change out their
existing stems right away, but not wanting to get into a problem
unnecessarily, and being able to get these cheap, it's worth
the effort when I put my new tires on this spring.
The attached drawing should be pretty self explanatory. It would
be great to hear any negative feedback on it. If it works well,
feel free to use it for yourself. You should be able to give the
drawing to any machinist and get these pretty cheap. My pal tells
me the aluminum stock of 1.25" diameter is only 50 cents per inch.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> 3 5/16 is the normal axle extender. We made the replacement 3 3/8 to
> eliminate the steel washer on the exle nut side, since the load does not
> need to be relieved by the washer. We made it the same thickness as the
> washer the whole way out (adds a couple of ounces total) with flats for a
> wrench in the middle. Making the inside threads 5/16's is what we did also.
> Anybody with access to a lathe and just the basic skills could make these in
> no time flat, especially if you keep it a cylinder and don't want to taper
> it, but either way it will work fine and still be easy to do. Again, the
> flats can be added with a file if you don't know how to use a mill, or you
> could drill a hole through and use a rod to hold it while you tighten the
> bolt on the axle side.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> www.saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 49
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | James Cowl spacing for MT Prop w/ 14" spinner? |
We need to know the cowl spacing for the James cowl using MT prop with the
the 14" spinner.
Is it also 1.5"?
Is anyone using this combo and has the prop/spinner installed?
ERic--
40014
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|