Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:11 AM - Re: Accuracy Avionics Air Scoop (Wayne Edgerton)
2. 04:33 AM - Re: Rudder cable exits on tailcone (Deems Davis)
3. 05:11 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Russell Daves)
4. 05:58 AM - Re: Subaru H-6 Eggenfellner conversion (tomhanaway)
5. 06:11 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Rene Felker)
6. 06:29 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Phillips, Jack)
7. 06:30 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Phillips, Jack)
8. 06:45 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Tim Olson)
9. 06:54 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Rene Felker)
10. 06:55 AM - RV-10 Calendar Pages ()
11. 07:23 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Tim Olson)
12. 07:37 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
13. 07:55 AM - Re: Re: Accuracy Avionics Air Scoop ()
14. 08:04 AM - Shop Organization ()
15. 08:18 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
16. 08:23 AM - Re: Shop Organization (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
17. 08:23 AM - Re: Shop Organization (Dj Merrill)
18. 08:24 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Henkjan van der Zouw)
19. 08:30 AM - Re: Shop Organization (Tim Olson)
20. 08:47 AM - Re: Shop Organization (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 08:48 AM - Re: Shop Organization (Les Kearney)
22. 08:51 AM - Re: Rudder cable exits on tailcone (Chris Johnston)
23. 08:56 AM - Re: Shop Organization (Vern W. Smith)
24. 09:17 AM - Re: Shop Organization (Jesse Saint)
25. 09:34 AM - Control Rod Rigging/Clearance (Jesse Saint)
26. 09:45 AM - Re: Axle Extender length needed (Tim Olson)
27. 10:17 AM - Re: Shop Organization (John Jessen)
28. 10:21 AM - Shop organization (Fred Williams, M.D.)
29. 10:48 AM - Shop Organization (JOHN STARN)
30. 10:53 AM - Re: Shop Organization (bob.kaufmann)
31. 10:54 AM - Re: Shop Organization (Tim Olson)
32. 11:03 AM - Re: Shop Organization (JOHN STARN)
33. 11:38 AM - Re: Shop Organization (Deems Davis)
34. 12:22 PM - Re: Shop Organization (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
35. 12:22 PM - Re: Shop Organization (Rene Felker)
36. 01:10 PM - Re: Shop Organization (John Jessen)
37. 01:12 PM - Re: Shop Organization (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
38. 01:23 PM - Re: Officially a Builder (John Jessen)
39. 02:19 PM - Re: Shop Organization (Bob Collins)
40. 02:40 PM - Re: Shop Organization (James Stribling)
41. 02:59 PM - Re: Rudder cable exits on tailcone (Ben Westfall)
42. 03:40 PM - Re: Control Rod Rigging/Clearance (rv10builder)
43. 03:44 PM - Baggage door lock (John Gonzalez)
44. 03:45 PM - Re: Re: Shop Organization (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
45. 03:55 PM - shoulder harness wear blocks (Jay Rowe)
46. 03:59 PM - Re: Baggage door lock (Deems Davis)
47. 04:06 PM - Re: Rudder cable exits on tailcone (Chris Johnston)
48. 04:23 PM - Re: Baggage door lock (Dave Lammers)
49. 07:20 PM - Re: shoulder harness wear blocks (Rick)
50. 08:03 PM - Fiberglass supplies needed? (Eric Parlow)
51. 09:21 PM - Re: Fiberglass supplies needed? (John Testement)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Accuracy Avionics Air Scoop |
Hi Bob,
Yes I've installed it and I'll send you a couple of photos off line.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder cable exits on tailcone |
I used parts from Aircraft Spruce,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ruddercable.php you can
get them from Cleveland, Wicks and others no doubt.
"DDD" is my shorthand for doing the "*D*rill, *D*ebur, and *D*imple"
Dance, as your have learned by now, you get LOTS of practice at this!
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> Who used what here? I remember a recent post regarding 3rd party
> parts for this. I see something called 'DDD' in Mr Deems tailcone.
> Looking for advice here before I start riveting on the top skin.
>
> Thanks!
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Axle Extender length needed |
If you could find somebody with a CNC machine to make lots of 100 pairs
the price would probably drop to $50.00 a set. At that price I would
buy a set and at my conditional inspection when I had both mains off for
service I would even buy a set. They are really sweet looking. The
problem with having someone build one pair at a time on a lathe and mill
is the setup time to do everything takes about an hour so you have to
pay more.
On a CNC machine doing a lot of 100 pairs the CNC operator can set up
the machine one time, stick in the bar stock and go about doing other
things while the parts are produced.
As many RV-10 builders as exist, why doesn't somebody who has access to
a company with a CNC machine explore a group buy of 100 sets!!!
Russ Daves
N710RV - RV-10 first flight 7/28/06
N65RV - Sold
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Subaru H-6 Eggenfellner conversion |
email sent
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
N518TP reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88812#88812
Message 5
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| Subject: | Axle Extender length needed |
I did that yesterday. Using Tim's drawing, I was quoted $60 each with a
minimum order of 10. Since I was thinking of doing it anyway, I may just by
the 10 and see if I can sell the extra 8. Still thinking...
"These parts made out of 6061-T6 aluminum with alodine and primer would be
$60 each with minimum order of 10 or more"
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 6:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
If you could find somebody with a CNC machine to make lots of 100 pairs the
price would probably drop to $50.00 a set. At that price I would buy a set
and at my conditional inspection when I had both mains off for service I
would even buy a set. They are really sweet looking. The problem with
having someone build one pair at a time on a lathe and mill is the setup
time to do everything takes about an hour so you have to pay more.
On a CNC machine doing a lot of 100 pairs the CNC operator can set up the
machine one time, stick in the bar stock and go about doing other things
while the parts are produced.
As many RV-10 builders as exist, why doesn't somebody who has access to a
company with a CNC machine explore a group buy of 100 sets!!!
Russ Daves
N710RV - RV-10 first flight 7/28/06
N65RV - Sold
Message 6
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| Subject: | Axle Extender length needed |
Ren=E9,
Is that $60 per pair? I would be interested. What steel are you using?
Jack Phillips
#40610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
I did that yesterday. Using Tim's drawing, I was quoted $60 each with a mi
nimum order of 10. Since I was thinking of doing it anyway, I may just by
the 10 and see if I can sell the extra 8. Still thinking.....
"These parts made out of 6061-T6 aluminum with alodine and primer would be
$60 each with minimum order of 10 or more"
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 6:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
If you could find somebody with a CNC machine to make lots of 100 pairs the
price would probably drop to $50.00 a set. At that price I would buy a se
t and at my conditional inspection when I had both mains off for service I
would even buy a set. They are really sweet looking. The problem with hav
ing someone build one pair at a time on a lathe and mill is the setup time
to do everything takes about an hour so you have to pay more.
On a CNC machine doing a lot of 100 pairs the CNC operator can set up the m
achine one time, stick in the bar stock and go about doing other things whi
le the parts are produced.
As many RV-10 builders as exist, why doesn't somebody who has access to a c
ompany with a CNC machine explore a group buy of 100 sets!!!
Russ Daves
N710RV - RV-10 first flight 7/28/06
N65RV - Sold
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
Message 7
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| Subject: | Axle Extender length needed |
"Duh..." now I see the material listed as 6061-T6. Pays to read more
carefully
Jack
#40610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
I did that yesterday. Using Tim's drawing, I was quoted $60 each with a
minimum order of 10. Since I was thinking of doing it anyway, I may
just by the 10 and see if I can sell the extra 8. Still thinking.....
"These parts made out of 6061-T6 aluminum with alodine and primer would
be $60 each with minimum order of 10 or more"
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 6:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
If you could find somebody with a CNC machine to make lots of 100 pairs
the price would probably drop to $50.00 a set. At that price I would
buy a set and at my conditional inspection when I had both mains off for
service I would even buy a set. They are really sweet looking. The
problem with having someone build one pair at a time on a lathe and mill
is the setup time to do everything takes about an hour so you have to
pay more.
On a CNC machine doing a lot of 100 pairs the CNC operator can set up
the machine one time, stick in the bar stock and go about doing other
things while the parts are produced.
As many RV-10 builders as exist, why doesn't somebody who has access to
a company with a CNC machine explore a group buy of 100 sets!!!
Russ Daves
N710RV - RV-10 first flight 7/28/06
N65RV - Sold
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Axle Extender length needed |
I was glad to see you got a good quote for it. That did a good
job of putting pricing in perspective. I do think, however,
that before you'd order 8 extra, it may be worth checking
with a couple other CNC capable machine shops. You can ask
them the price on 20 pairs, and ask them if it makes any difference
if someone has generated the appropriate CAD file and G code
to run the mill. If that ends up being a saving factor,
I do have a friend who I'm sure would generate the file....then
they'd just have to plug it in and go. Also, for doing
quantities, it would be nice to get 3 or 4 quotes to see
how they compare. If someone truly has the initiative to get
these made for a group buy, it would pay to get the ultimate
price per unit as low as possible...because that would determine
how quickly you could get the stock depleted.
If I only had a little more phone time, I'd even consider
contracting someone to make a small run of these, because I
think there will be a longer term need for them. But the cost
would have to be low enough to virtually guarantee that they'd
go like hotcakes because I wouldn't be willing to sit on
them for more than a couple weeks. I'm not interested in
being in the parts business. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rene Felker wrote:
> I did that yesterday. Using Tims drawing, I was quoted $60 each with a
> minimum order of 10. Since I was thinking of doing it anyway, I may
> just by the 10 and see if I can sell the extra 8. Still thinking..
>
>
>
>
>
> These parts made out of 6061-T6 aluminum with alodine and primer would
> be $60 each with minimum order of 10 or more
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Russell Daves
> *Sent:* Friday, January 19, 2007 6:10 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
>
>
>
> If you could find somebody with a CNC machine to make lots of 100 pairs
> the price would probably drop to $50.00 a set. At that price I would
> buy a set and at my conditional inspection when I had both mains off for
> service I would even buy a set. They are really sweet looking. The
> problem with having someone build one pair at a time on a lathe and mill
> is the setup time to do everything takes about an hour so you have to
> pay more.
>
>
>
> On a CNC machine doing a lot of 100 pairs the CNC operator can set up
> the machine one time, stick in the bar stock and go about doing other
> things while the parts are produced.
>
>
>
> As many RV-10 builders as exist, why doesn't somebody who has access to
> a company with a CNC machine explore a group buy of 100 sets!!!
>
>
>
> Russ Daves
>
> N710RV - RV-10 first flight 7/28/06
>
> N65RV - Sold
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 9
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| Subject: | Axle Extender length needed |
No that is $60 a piece. Makes the $150 shipping number look in line with
reasonable.
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips, Jack
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 7:30 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
"Duh..." now I see the material listed as 6061-T6. Pays to read more
carefully
Jack
#40610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
I did that yesterday. Using Tim's drawing, I was quoted $60 each with a
minimum order of 10. Since I was thinking of doing it anyway, I may just by
the 10 and see if I can sell the extra 8. Still thinking...
"These parts made out of 6061-T6 aluminum with alodine and primer would be
$60 each with minimum order of 10 or more"
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 6:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
If you could find somebody with a CNC machine to make lots of 100 pairs the
price would probably drop to $50.00 a set. At that price I would buy a set
and at my conditional inspection when I had both mains off for service I
would even buy a set. They are really sweet looking. The problem with
having someone build one pair at a time on a lathe and mill is the setup
time to do everything takes about an hour so you have to pay more.
On a CNC machine doing a lot of 100 pairs the CNC operator can set up the
machine one time, stick in the bar stock and go about doing other things
while the parts are produced.
As many RV-10 builders as exist, why doesn't somebody who has access to a
company with a CNC machine explore a group buy of 100 sets!!!
Russ Daves
N710RV - RV-10 first flight 7/28/06
N65RV - Sold
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV-10 Calendar Pages |
Tim has posted some RV-10 Calendar Pages for me. Thanks, Tim! (I just realized
I don't have your airplane on the pages. I will fix that!)
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/index.html
I still need a couple more pictures to round out 2007 (November and December).
Get some glossy paper and print them. Might help motivate us to continue pounding
those rivets (or sand that fiberglass - YUK!)
Jim Combs
N312F
40192 - Finishing Kit
Do Not Archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Axle Extender length needed |
I'll give some comparison numbers shortly. I've sent out quote
request to 4 machining places locally. I asked them for a quote
on 20 and 40 quantities of these parts, explaining that they're
used in sets and this is for a group-buy effort.
I also asked that the quote be split up a bit...with first a
quote to basically make exactly what I drew up yesterday,
and then to quote just doing the lathe work and putting a pilot
hole in each end. I figured that any of us who built planes
are well capable of doing the drilling and tapping on the ends,
and any thru holes, as required. The hard part is just making
them pretty on the lathe. I know I myself would rather pay
$40/pair (if that were accurate) for a pair of turned down
blocks, than pay $100/pair for a completely machined part.
There just isn't that much work involved after the lathe.
(Oh, and as Dan pointed out, the lathe work is optional anyway)
I can't say I'll be funding a huge group buy or anything,
but I can at least get a few price quotes, and if for
some reason the price is far better than what others are
finding, I would possibly be interested in getting a batch
made as long as I wasn't left holding a pile of aluminum
parts on my dime.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rene Felker wrote:
> No that is $60 a piece. Makes the $150 shipping number look in line
> with reasonable.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
> 801-721-6080
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Axle Extender length needed |
Jack
come on did you read the post? The answers are all listed there, it says
the part is made from 6061-T6 aluminum and they are $60 each not per
pair each.
"GRIN"
Dan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips,
Jack
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
Ren=E9,
Is that $60 per pair? I would be interested. What steel are you using?
Jack Phillips
#40610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
I did that yesterday. Using Tim's drawing, I was quoted $60 each with a
minimum order of 10. Since I was thinking of doing it anyway, I may
just by the 10 and see if I can sell the extra 8. Still thinking.....
"These parts made out of 6061-T6 aluminum with alodine and primer would
be $60 each with minimum order of 10 or more"
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 6:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
If you could find somebody with a CNC machine to make lots of 100 pairs
the price would probably drop to $50.00 a set. At that price I would
buy a set and at my conditional inspection when I had both mains off for
service I would even buy a set. They are really sweet looking. The
problem with having someone build one pair at a time on a lathe and mill
is the setup time to do everything takes about an hour so you have to
pay more.
On a CNC machine doing a lot of 100 pairs the CNC operator can set up
the machine one time, stick in the bar stock and go about doing other
things while the parts are produced.
As many RV-10 builders as exist, why doesn't somebody who has access to
a company with a CNC machine explore a group buy of 100 sets!!!
Russ Daves
N710RV - RV-10 first flight 7/28/06
N65RV - Sold
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands
- N
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Accuracy Avionics Air Scoop |
thanks!
>
> From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e@grandecom.net>
> Date: 2007/01/19 Fri AM 07:10:04 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Accuracy Avionics Air Scoop
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Yes I've installed it and I'll send you a couple of photos off line.
>
> Wayne Edgerton #40336
>
> do not archive
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites, but I'm still
looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the various rivets, screws,
etc.
It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming problematic after
awhile.
So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work well for
you.
thanks,
bob
Message 15
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| Subject: | Axle Extender length needed |
Guys, they are on the inside of the wheel pant and will only likely be
seen once a year, by yourself. Unless someone goes looking under
everyone's wheel pants. But I have been told getting down on your hands
and knees and looking at the bottom of any plane is equivalent to
looking up a lady's skirt, so it is not a practice I take too, at least
not one that I will admit to in a public forum...
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
I'll give some comparison numbers shortly. I've sent out quote
request to 4 machining places locally. I asked them for a quote
on 20 and 40 quantities of these parts, explaining that they're
used in sets and this is for a group-buy effort.
I also asked that the quote be split up a bit...with first a
quote to basically make exactly what I drew up yesterday,
and then to quote just doing the lathe work and putting a pilot
hole in each end. I figured that any of us who built planes
are well capable of doing the drilling and tapping on the ends,
and any thru holes, as required. The hard part is just making
them pretty on the lathe. I know I myself would rather pay
$40/pair (if that were accurate) for a pair of turned down
blocks, than pay $100/pair for a completely machined part.
There just isn't that much work involved after the lathe.
(Oh, and as Dan pointed out, the lathe work is optional anyway)
I can't say I'll be funding a huge group buy or anything,
but I can at least get a few price quotes, and if for
some reason the price is far better than what others are
finding, I would possibly be interested in getting a batch
made as long as I wasn't left holding a pile of aluminum
parts on my dime.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rene Felker wrote:
> No that is $60 a piece. Makes the $150 shipping number look in line
> with reasonable.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
> 801-721-6080
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Organization |
In a message dated 1/19/2007 11:07:37 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rvmail@thelefflers.com writes:
It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming problematic
after awhile.
So what has worked well for you?
I bought a bunch of the little stackable bins at Harbor Freight, then
added labels (marker would work) and this is good for all the small parts. I
have about 4 tall and maybe 10 wide on a shelf.
I have clear, stackable tupperware (cheap) like bins for rivets. Mine
are about 6 x 6 inces and 1.5 inches tall. They are very hard to tip over.
Label all sides with the rivet size...makes life easy. The cleco's go in
bins and are very easy to manage.
Steve
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Organization |
rvmail@thelefflers.com wrote:
>
> It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming problematic after
awhile.
>
Heh heh, I've been keeping them all in the bags... :-) I make sure
there is a good label on the bag, and tend to keep the "like" rivets
together, such as flush AD-3s in one group, flush AD-4s in another, etc.
Other have used things like this:
<http://www.fodcontrol.com/trey.html>
or this:
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/cabinet.html>
-Dj
Message 18
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| Subject: | Axle Extender length needed |
Tim,
Can you send me the drawing again please, I don't understand the problem
exactly, as you know I own a CNC machine shop, prices that I see are
looking pretty expensive to me.
As I understand the bolts are breaking, is this the bolt which goes into
the hexagon extender part?, if so, why no improve the hexagon part in a
better one with a wider foot at the axle nut side together with a
somewhat heavier bolt?, it will be much cheaper, I guess about 20 Euro
per pair max, if able to setup a small series.
Henkjan van der Zouw
#40355
www.zme.nl
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Namens Tim Olson
Verzonden: vrijdag 19 januari 2007 16:23
Aan: rv10-list@matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Axle Extender length needed
I'll give some comparison numbers shortly. I've sent out quote
request to 4 machining places locally. I asked them for a quote
on 20 and 40 quantities of these parts, explaining that they're
used in sets and this is for a group-buy effort.
I also asked that the quote be split up a bit...with first a
quote to basically make exactly what I drew up yesterday,
and then to quote just doing the lathe work and putting a pilot
hole in each end. I figured that any of us who built planes
are well capable of doing the drilling and tapping on the ends,
and any thru holes, as required. The hard part is just making
them pretty on the lathe. I know I myself would rather pay
$40/pair (if that were accurate) for a pair of turned down
blocks, than pay $100/pair for a completely machined part.
There just isn't that much work involved after the lathe.
(Oh, and as Dan pointed out, the lathe work is optional anyway)
I can't say I'll be funding a huge group buy or anything,
but I can at least get a few price quotes, and if for
some reason the price is far better than what others are
finding, I would possibly be interested in getting a batch
made as long as I wasn't left holding a pile of aluminum
parts on my dime.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rene Felker wrote:
> No that is $60 a piece. Makes the $150 shipping number look in line
> with reasonable.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
> 801-721-6080
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Organization |
Good question Bob. One thing: It's probably one more
of those situations where what works for one might not be
the favorite solution for another.
Here's mine:
I finally got tired of missing rivets and
nuts/washers/bolts/screws. After a while I decided that
the only way to own a plane long term was to just go to
Van's and Aircraft Spruce and order extras of all normal
sized AN3 bolts, and many AN4 bolts. Even a few AN5's.
I also bought many extra pop rivets, and quantities of
the driven rivets. Same with washers of all sizes, nuts
of all sizes, including all-metal locknuts for in the engine
area. ALL of this hardware I just sorted out into those
drawer type desktop bins. (The rivets are in those
spring-hinge lid carrying trays for portability). That
way you get used to finding standard hardware items
in a standard area...and it's easy to see if you're down
on quantity after you get done with the kit...so you can
keep a couple of everything on hand.
For the more specialized hardware, I found it easiest
just to have 3 or 4 small shoebox type bins handy, with
all of the baggies stacked in numerical order, and the
baggie parts lists on top of each bin full of parts. It
made it quick to locate all of the required special
parts during the build, and as one bin thinned out, you
knew you were getting done with that section. I just
numbered the bins with tape labels with the bag numbers
that were inside. Eventually you end up with one
small bin of some misc. things.
For the large parts, I stored them on shelves or stuffed
away in the basement in stacks so I could find them easily.
The fuselage and finishing kit parts I often left in
the big box, all laid out for easy viewing. The special
parts (like aileron trim kit, flap position sensor, lights...)
all went onto a set of shelves too.
Being organized will take time to set up, but it will save
time in the long run too. I was absolutely not
organized though, as I still had a few times where I
looked for a half hour to find a part. Some people go even
further and database everything. Lots of good ideas, but
any one method isn't for everyone.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
rvmail@thelefflers.com wrote:
>
>
> I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites,
> but I'm still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all
> the various rivets, screws, etc.
>
> It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming
> problematic after awhile.
>
> So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work
> well for you.
>
> thanks,
>
> bob
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
What worked well for me was to buy some of those parts cabinets and
unload everything into the drawers. Label each drawer and then recycle
unused ones when the next kit shows. It probably takes me about 4 hours
to inventory the bags and get the parts put away and the bins labeled,
but it saves a lot of time on the backend. Some pics are here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=msausen&project=22&categ
ory=619
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 limbo
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 10:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shop Organization
I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites, but
I'm still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the
various rivets, screws, etc.
It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming
problematic after awhile.
So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work
well for you.
thanks,
bob
Message 21
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
Bob
I am sure there are wiser people than I on the list, but as one who has
asked the same questions here is what I did.
The Yard Store (www.yardstore.com) sells the Extreme Rivet Tray which has
spring loaded covers. Given that I have knocked it off my table once and
didn't spill a single rivet, I can attest that it turned what have been a
very "riveting" experience into a non event. Here is a link to it:
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=885
As well, I got some small parts trays (with a cover) that I used to organize
all the bits and bobs that came with my tail kit. After inventorying each
bag, I put the contents into the appropriate bin which was labeled with
Avery computer labels. So far, I have always been able to find a part within
seconds and have not lost anything. I can sent you the empennage parts bin
labels electronically if you wish - they are printed on standard Avery
Labels.
Each subit was inventoried into a separate parts bin. I kept the subkits
intact so I could always find a particular part by referincing the Vans part
list and just looking in the appropraite bin. Parts that were too large to
put in bins were lfet in the shipping crates so they wouldn't get damaged. I
installed hinges on the flat shipping crate so the lid would open easily and
safely.
I have a few Rubbermaid plastic bins into which I place all the parts I
"pull" when building a particular subassembly. At the end of the day all
parts go back into the bin so the chances of losing a small item in the
workshop debris is limited. I also try not to leave things on the workbench
or elsewhere while working - everything goes back into the bin until needed.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shop Organization
I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites, but I'm
still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the various
rivets, screws, etc.
It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming problematic
after awhile.
So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work well
for you.
thanks,
bob
Message 22
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| Subject: | Rudder cable exits on tailcone |
I used the same parts from spruce. I wanted the cables to be removable
in case of, well I don't know what exactly... I used countersunk #6
screw nutplates. That also allowed me to have the fairings slightly
more aft to "capture" the cable sleeve. One thing that I learned though
is that putting the one screw directly in line with the opening makes it
tougher to install the cables later. If I had it to do again, I might
use 4 screws instead of 3 so I could keep the one out of the way for the
cable sleeve, or just offset the one in the front to one side of the
hole. Here's a picture:
http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Tailcone%208.
html
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 4:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder cable exits on tailcone
I used parts from Aircraft Spruce,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ruddercable.php you can
get them from Cleveland, Wicks and others no doubt.
"DDD" is my shorthand for doing the "*D*rill, *D*ebur, and *D*imple"
Dance, as your have learned by now, you get LOTS of practice at this!
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> Who used what here? I remember a recent post regarding 3rd party
> parts for this. I see something called 'DDD' in Mr Deems tailcone.
> Looking for advice here before I start riveting on the top skin.
>
> Thanks!
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
Rubbermaid makes a small clear plastic box (~6" x 6" x 1 1/2") with six
or seven compartments. They also make bigger ones for the larger bolts
and fittings. I use several of these for my rivets and other items (ie
nutplates, bolts, ect.). Then I use a sharpie to mark the different
sizes or part numbers on the top of the lid. The down side is I once
flipped the box over with the lid open and mixed the rivet sizes up. The
good news was I was just finishing the wings so the box was almost
empty.
Vern Smith (#324 fuselage)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 8:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shop Organization
I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites, but
I'm still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the
various rivets, screws, etc.
It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming
problematic after awhile.
So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work
well for you.
thanks,
bob
Message 24
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
What has worked the best for us is to buy little trays with lids like you
can guy in the fishing department of Wal-Mart. The trays need to be able to
close and latch, then you really want a clear plastic lid (all IMHO). Write
the size of the rivet on the lid and on the back of each compartment. We
have 3-4 trays for rivets, one for screws, 1 each for AN3, AN4 and AN5 bolts
(with washers and nuts in the same drawer), 1 for special washers, 1 for
special nuts, 1 for snap bushings, 1 or 2 for rod end bearings and threaded
rod ends (which you could do without, but it is nice to keep them this way),
and a couple extras for misc stuff. In fact, one time I found a little set
of 4 trays that fit in a little carrying case with a handle. It is so nice
to be able to grab a tray or set of trays and take it where you are working
with, say, AN3 bolts and have everything you need right there with you.
Also, getting the set of bolts/nuts/washers that Spruce sells is a great
help in case you need to go up or down a size somewhere.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shop Organization
I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites, but I'm
still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the various
rivets, screws, etc.
It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming problematic
after awhile.
So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work well
for you.
thanks,
bob
--
6:47 PM
Message 25
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| Subject: | Control Rod Rigging/Clearance |
OK, I have finally been through this point and, as promised, am going to
provide a little feedback on the jigs that Van's has us make to rig the
controls.
First of all, with the aft-most pushrod for the elevator, getting the
elevator rigged correctly (91.4 degrees on the bellcrank by the battery)
required me to shorten the pushrod 6 or 7 full threads from the measurement
in the plans. This got the elevators in trail and the bellcrank at the
angle required.
Second, with both of the forward elevator pushrods, having made them the
length called out, I only had to lengthen one of them one full thread to get
the elevator in trail using the little measuring bar from the spar forward
to the welded control arm in the front. With this rigged, the only place
that touched with full elevator travel was the cross-control-bar on the
front of the hole in the F-1048L&R as seen in the attached picture. A
little grinding on that an we are good to go.
For those of you who are working on this, please don't forget to put the
front bearing of the front pushrod on the end of the rod that was drilled
for the safety wire. It is a pain in the neck getting that fixed after
everything is installed. Ask me how I know.
So, in summary, I guess not all planes are the same, but I am very glad that
the little rigging parts are designed for us. They certainly do work (for
me).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Axle Extender length needed |
Ok, this is WAY premature, but I was too intrigued to let
it sit very long waiting for the other quotes to come
in.
Here is what the FIRST place quoted, and they explained
that they will probably be higher than some of the others
due to equipment reasons and the methods they use.
(had some terms that I'm not familiar with, like "screw
machine", and "collet work") (can you tell I'm no
machinist?)
As pictured in my drawing at:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html
For a COMPLETE part, all turned, drilled, tapped and
everything, INCLUDING materials.
Quantity 40: $17.75 each
Quantity 20: $24.50 each
For a part with only pilot holes drilled in the ends,
but otherwise just a slug of aluminum cut to length
and turned down as pictured:
Quantity 40: $14.50 each
So certainly this pricing is well below what we've been
talking about previously, and much closer to my expected
$50/set that I was just throwing a guess at. Yes, I know,
I went with Qty. 20 and 40, but if you're going to do
a group buy, you may as well do it with at least some
quantity.
I'll report back on my other quotes later.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
>
> Rene Felker wrote:
>> No that is $60 a piece. Makes the $150 shipping number look in line
>> with reasonable.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>>
>> 40322
>>
>> N423CF
>>
>> 801-721-6080
>>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
All the answers you'll get are correct, in this particular category.
However, Les is leading a charmed life. I've knocked over my spring lidded
marvel of an rivet tray and this is what good it did me.....
http://www.soundingsresearch.com/RV-10/Images/Empennage/Tailcone/IMG_3525_30
.html
So, as others have pointed out, your mileage will definitely vary.
I like to pick up some take out food on the way to the hanger, which is
definitely adding to the overall cost of the plane. Usually I get some type
of soup, mainly because the plastic containers are just the right size with
a lid that stays put. Makes for great storage for bulk or oversized parts.
But mostly I use one of the many platic drawer organizers that you can pick
up for cheap at HD or Sears. Get one with large drawers and one with all
small drawers and you'll almost have enough room. I actually do like the
spring loaded rivet tray, but depending on how it hits a cement floor, it
may not perform all that well.
But the most important thing is to take the time to sort and label
everything, no matter the container system. This will be well worth it in
the long run. I typically label by both part number and bag number.
Have fun!
John Jessen
#328 (back at it tomorrow! Huzzah!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 8:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shop Organization
Bob
I am sure there are wiser people than I on the list, but as one who has
asked the same questions here is what I did.
The Yard Store (www.yardstore.com) sells the Extreme Rivet Tray which has
spring loaded covers. Given that I have knocked it off my table once and
didn't spill a single rivet, I can attest that it turned what have been a
very "riveting" experience into a non event. Here is a link to it:
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=885
As well, I got some small parts trays (with a cover) that I used to organize
all the bits and bobs that came with my tail kit. After inventorying each
bag, I put the contents into the appropriate bin which was labeled with
Avery computer labels. So far, I have always been able to find a part within
seconds and have not lost anything. I can sent you the empennage parts bin
labels electronically if you wish - they are printed on standard Avery
Labels.
Each subit was inventoried into a separate parts bin. I kept the subkits
intact so I could always find a particular part by referincing the Vans part
list and just looking in the appropraite bin. Parts that were too large to
put in bins were lfet in the shipping crates so they wouldn't get damaged. I
installed hinges on the flat shipping crate so the lid would open easily and
safely.
I have a few Rubbermaid plastic bins into which I place all the parts I
"pull" when building a particular subassembly. At the end of the day all
parts go back into the bin so the chances of losing a small item in the
workshop debris is limited. I also try not to leave things on the workbench
or elsewhere while working - everything goes back into the bin until needed.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shop Organization
I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites, but I'm
still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the various
rivets, screws, etc.
It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming problematic
after awhile.
So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work well
for you.
thanks,
bob
Message 28
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| Subject: | Shop organization |
I uploaded a couple of pictures to mykitlog on how I've organized
things. Basically, just get several plastic boxes and bin organizers
from Wal-Mart or your local supplier. Get some tape and a sharpie and
label the bins.
Make sure whatever you have your rivets in is lockable. There are too
many stories of wasted weekends trying to separate out fallen rivets.
Open the container, get a few out and transfer them to a 35 mm plastic
can or small lid. Lock the big box up and never set it where it can
spill.
Another thing that I have found helpful is my woodworking bench. Wood
blocks and some hold downs are very helpful when you are trying to rivet
a long spar. You always seem to need a third hand. I think I uploaded
some pics when I built the flaps. Also on Mykitlog.
I'll take a couple of pics of some riveting tips that I have found
useful. Especially when putting several thicknesses of parts together.
Hope this helps.
Fred Williams
40515
Message 29
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
Rivet trays. Go to www.yardstore.com page# 16 in their catalog (Cat# 70
2006), part# 14299 for new ones. I ordered two of their "used" ones. Great
trays, carry handle, spring loaded covers (in case you forget to close
them). Can hold from 8 to 16 different sizes (16 if you buy the split
inserts). I bought two trays five years ago, GREAT item. Get on their
mailing list, they always have specials going. Used tools etc. KABONG HRII
N561FS Archive this one.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shop Organization
>
> What has worked the best for us is to buy little trays with lids like you
> can guy in the fishing department of Wal-Mart. The trays need to be able
> to
> close and latch, then you really want a clear plastic lid (all IMHO).
> Write
> the size of the rivet on the lid and on the back of each compartment. We
> have 3-4 trays for rivets, one for screws, 1 each for AN3, AN4 and AN5
> bolts
Message 30
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
I went down to the local aircraft supply store, Home Depot and bought 3
cabinets, plastic with trays in them 2 1/4 high by about 4 1/2 wide by 5
deep and they are three columns and 6 rows. Now wish I had bought 4, but it
has keep me out of the bag search.
Bob K 90/90
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 8:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shop Organization
I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites, but I'm
still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the various
rivets, screws, etc.
It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming problematic
after awhile.
So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work well
for you.
thanks,
bob
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Organization |
John (and all),
I've done this once before myself....actually, I spilled
some rivets twice. I do have a great solution to the cleanup
though. Here's what I did:
Took a plastic large peanut butter jar, and 2 pieces of hose.
Tygon, or poly tubing will work fine, with an I.D. of 1/4"
or more. Put 2 holes in the jar lid, and stick both tubes
into the jar. One tub only goes through about 1 inch. That
tube gets hooked to your shop vac. The other tube gets stuffed
down to within an inch from the bottom. That tube is what
you use on the outside end to suck up the rivets.
So then I vacuumed them up, into the jar, but when I vacuumed
them I tried to scatter them enough to only suck same-sized
rivets. Hopefully you'll maybe spill one size mainly, and
only a few oddballs. After you vac up one size, just empty
the jar and do another. You should be left with very few
rivets to hand sort.
The reason this happened to me is that I stuck a pen in the
lid to hold it open while I fished out rivets. Then of
course, I bumped the box off the chair.
Anyway, it makes for easier cleanup and sorting.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Jessen wrote:
>
> All the answers you'll get are correct, in this particular category.
> However, Les is leading a charmed life. I've knocked over my spring lidded
> marvel of an rivet tray and this is what good it did me.....
>
> http://www.soundingsresearch.com/RV-10/Images/Empennage/Tailcone/IMG_3525_30
> .html
>
> So, as others have pointed out, your mileage will definitely vary.
>
> I like to pick up some take out food on the way to the hanger, which is
> definitely adding to the overall cost of the plane. Usually I get some type
> of soup, mainly because the plastic containers are just the right size with
> a lid that stays put. Makes for great storage for bulk or oversized parts.
> But mostly I use one of the many platic drawer organizers that you can pick
> up for cheap at HD or Sears. Get one with large drawers and one with all
> small drawers and you'll almost have enough room. I actually do like the
> spring loaded rivet tray, but depending on how it hits a cement floor, it
> may not perform all that well.
>
> But the most important thing is to take the time to sort and label
> everything, no matter the container system. This will be well worth it in
> the long run. I typically label by both part number and bag number.
>
> Have fun!
>
> John Jessen
> #328 (back at it tomorrow! Huzzah!)
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Organization |
BUT then again I have known people who have the ability to disassemble an
anvil too.
Do Not Archive KABONG 8*)
> All the answers you'll get are correct, in this particular category.
> However, Les is leading a charmed life. I've knocked over my spring
> lidded
> marvel of an rivet tray and this is what good it did me.....
>
> http://www.soundingsresearch.com/RV-10/Images/Empennage/Tailcone/IMG_3525_30
> .html
>
> So, as others have pointed out, your mileage will definitely vary.
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Organization |
Do what works for you, but you really can't call yourself an RV builder
until you've run a high speed drill through your thumb/finger/hand/
arm/? and spilled a container of rivets at least once ! :-)
Do Not Archive
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
rvmail@thelefflers.com wrote:
>
>
>I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites, but I'm still
looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the various rivets,
screws, etc.
>
>It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming problematic after
awhile.
>
>So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work well for
you.
>
>thanks,
>
>bob
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
You forgot drilling a friends or spouse finger to make yourself an
experienced builder. Only once you have done this and then talked the
person into coming back out to help can you truly be one of the crazy
guys in the garage....I have even heard rumors that if you get multiple
fingers of different people the value goes up!
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Shop Organization
Do what works for you, but you really can't call yourself an RV builder
until you've run a high speed drill through your thumb/finger/hand/
arm/? and spilled a container of rivets at least once ! :-)
Do Not Archive
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
rvmail@thelefflers.com wrote:
>
>
>I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites,
but I'm still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the
various rivets, screws, etc.
>
>It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming
problematic after awhile.
>
>So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work
well for you.
>
>thanks,
>
>bob
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
Been there done that....
Drilled finger
Drilled under finger nail
Dropped two trays of rivets....3-4, 3-4.5, did not attempt to sort, just
scoped them up, picked sizes out I needed that weekend and ordered
more....they come presorted that way.
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Shop Organization
Do what works for you, but you really can't call yourself an RV builder
until you've run a high speed drill through your thumb/finger/hand/
arm/? and spilled a container of rivets at least once ! :-)
Do Not Archive
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
rvmail@thelefflers.com wrote:
>
>
>I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites, but
I'm still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the various
rivets, screws, etc.
>
>It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming problematic
after awhile.
>
>So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work well
for you.
>
>thanks,
>
>bob
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
You know that you are making progress towards RV builder Level 7 status when
you look down at a pile of scooped up rivets and can pick out a 3-3 from a
3-3.5 or 3-4 and get it right every time. Telling the 3-5 from a 3-4 took
me a little bit longer, like about 5 secs. Or, when you stick a rivet into
place and look at it before riveting and say, "that's too long" or "that's
too short." Amazing visual computer we got in our heads.
I consider that I'm still at Level 2. You don't get to Level 3 until you
have the Empennage completely done, the hole in the finger, the significant
other putting want ads in the paper for a new partner, the town telling you
that you really should mow the lawn before the fire season gets going, the
car hasn't been cleaned out in months, you've dumped rivets at least once
and it fazes you not one whit, the check book not balanced and the bills
piling up, nights spent staring out the window wondering why you aren't at
the hanger building (this at midnight), built the extension to the garage or
opened a hole to the basement, and so on.
We'll have to suppose those who are flying, have the painting done, all the
fairings done, all the electronics working like they should, and are now
simply having the time of their lives, are at Level 6. Not sure yet what
takes you to the blissful and enviable Level 7, but this has to be reserved
for the truly spiritual.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 12:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shop Organization
Been there done that....
Drilled finger
Drilled under finger nail
Dropped two trays of rivets....3-4, 3-4.5, did not attempt to sort, just
scoped them up, picked sizes out I needed that weekend and ordered
more....they come presorted that way.
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Shop Organization
Do what works for you, but you really can't call yourself an RV builder
until you've run a high speed drill through your thumb/finger/hand/ arm/?
and spilled a container of rivets at least once ! :-)
Do Not Archive
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
rvmail@thelefflers.com wrote:
>
>
>I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites,
>but
I'm still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the various
rivets, screws, etc.
>
>It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming
>problematic
after awhile.
>
>So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work
>well
for you.
>
>thanks,
>
>bob
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
Hey John, where did ya get that picture of my shop floor! :-D
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 12:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shop Organization
All the answers you'll get are correct, in this particular category.
However, Les is leading a charmed life. I've knocked over my spring
lidded
marvel of an rivet tray and this is what good it did me.....
http://www.soundingsresearch.com/RV-10/Images/Empennage/Tailcone/IMG_352
5_30
.html
So, as others have pointed out, your mileage will definitely vary.
I like to pick up some take out food on the way to the hanger, which is
definitely adding to the overall cost of the plane. Usually I get some
type
of soup, mainly because the plastic containers are just the right size
with
a lid that stays put. Makes for great storage for bulk or oversized
parts.
But mostly I use one of the many platic drawer organizers that you can
pick
up for cheap at HD or Sears. Get one with large drawers and one with
all
small drawers and you'll almost have enough room. I actually do like
the
spring loaded rivet tray, but depending on how it hits a cement floor,
it
may not perform all that well.
But the most important thing is to take the time to sort and label
everything, no matter the container system. This will be well worth it
in
the long run. I typically label by both part number and bag number.
Have fun!
John Jessen
#328 (back at it tomorrow! Huzzah!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 8:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shop Organization
Bob
I am sure there are wiser people than I on the list, but as one who has
asked the same questions here is what I did.
The Yard Store (www.yardstore.com) sells the Extreme Rivet Tray which
has
spring loaded covers. Given that I have knocked it off my table once and
didn't spill a single rivet, I can attest that it turned what have been
a
very "riveting" experience into a non event. Here is a link to it:
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=885
As well, I got some small parts trays (with a cover) that I used to
organize
all the bits and bobs that came with my tail kit. After inventorying
each
bag, I put the contents into the appropriate bin which was labeled with
Avery computer labels. So far, I have always been able to find a part
within
seconds and have not lost anything. I can sent you the empennage parts
bin
labels electronically if you wish - they are printed on standard Avery
Labels.
Each subit was inventoried into a separate parts bin. I kept the subkits
intact so I could always find a particular part by referincing the Vans
part
list and just looking in the appropraite bin. Parts that were too large
to
put in bins were lfet in the shipping crates so they wouldn't get
damaged. I
installed hinges on the flat shipping crate so the lid would open easily
and
safely.
I have a few Rubbermaid plastic bins into which I place all the parts I
"pull" when building a particular subassembly. At the end of the day all
parts go back into the bin so the chances of losing a small item in the
workshop debris is limited. I also try not to leave things on the
workbench
or elsewhere while working - everything goes back into the bin until
needed.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Lost in the empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shop Organization
I've been reading material found all over on a variety of web sites, but
I'm
still looking for a "best practice" on how to organize all the various
rivets, screws, etc.
It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming
problematic
after awhile.
So what has worked well for you? Equally important, what didn't work
well
for you.
thanks,
bob
Message 38
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| Subject: | Officially a Builder |
Hey, Mike, congratulations. You'll love it.
John Jessen
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Doble (Home
Office)
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 4:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Officially a Builder
Hi all! I picked up my emp kit on Tuesday from the shipping company.
Inventory done, only two parts missing! (I thought that was good
considering..)
I have decided to name Tim Olsen on my reply to Vans regarding "Who inspired
me the most to build an RV-10?"
I did this because:
1. Tim's website is one of the first I found when I decided an RV-10 was for
me. And as I have lingered out here over the years and watched his progress
and first flight, it convinced me the -10 is the right airplane. It is
especially motivating to see him and his family's trip log. I also have two
little ones (4 and 6) and look forward to doing similar trips one day. The
trip log was especially useful in showing the "Commander-in-Chief" (my wife)
what can be done with such a great airplane. (See Joan..Tim's kids and wife
are still smiling!!!!)
2. Tim's posts to this list typically are insightful and informative. A lot
of his posts have landed in my "Keepers" folder under RV-10. (Thanks for
the wheel pant bolt drawing last night!)
3. He's another Wisconsinite..
Not to slight the others that have inspired me, but Deems and CJ's web sites
are great too and I for one really appreciate the effort to pass on your
[absolutely golden] knowledge!!!
Mike
Builder 40691
Working on emp..YEAH!!!!
Waukesha, Wisconsin
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Organization |
When they were making "From the Ground Up," I was over at Oshkosh for a SportAir
workshop and they let us tour the "set" (it was the hangar) where Joe Schumacher
was building the plane. It was a FABULOUS workshop (perhaps you've seen
the videos). One thing I thought was cool is he made an A-frame structure on
casters. On one side he mounted all of the plans, so you could flip it up and
over.
On the other side he had several rows of trays...with baby-food jars holding all
the parts in an organized fashion.
I didn't construct the A-frame, but I did make a unit with shelvesof baby food
jars, each holding a difference sized , rivet, platenut, screw, washer etc.
I also created spreadsheets as I unpacked each subkit, indicating where I put it,
so that when it came time -- usually months later, sometimes years, I'd just
fire up the spreadsheet and look it up.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://rvhotline.expercraft.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88962#88962
Message 40
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| Subject: | Shop Organization |
For many bag parts that will not fit into the usual bins I use small Mason
jars. I put the bag number on the top and can easily see what is inside.
When the jar is empty I just turn it over to remind me that the part is
attached to the airplane. They are relatively cheap and easy to stack on a
shelf.
James Stribling
RV 4 RV 10 40140
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Shop Organization
In a message dated 1/19/2007 11:07:37 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rvmail@thelefflers.com writes:
It seems to me that keeping them all in the bags may becoming problematic
after awhile.
So what has worked well for you?
I bought a bunch of the little stackable bins at Harbor Freight, then
added labels (marker would work) and this is good for all the small parts. I
have about 4 tall and maybe 10 wide on a shelf.
I have clear, stackable tupperware (cheap) like bins for rivets. Mine
are about 6 x 6 inces and 1.5 inches tall. They are very hard to tip over.
Label all sides with the rivet size...makes life easy. The cleco's go in
bins and are very easy to manage.
Steve
do not archive
Message 41
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| Subject: | Rudder cable exits on tailcone |
Chris,
I somewhat copied your design when I was working on the tailcone except I
went ahead and put 4 screws in instead of 3. I haven't run the cables
through the tailcone yet so I can't say if it ends up being better or not.
You can see some pictures here:
http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/rudder-fairing/
You will notice in the 5th picture I ended up using a flush pop-rivet
because my nutplate rivet hole ended up being right inline with the angle
aluminum on second to last bulkhead in the tailcone. I couldn't come up
with a way to buck the rivet. Dimpling the nutplate attach holes with the
pop-rivet dimple die was quite challenging. It took quite a few 4 letter
expletives to complete. If I would have moved the nutplate about 1/4"
toward the back life would have been easier. In fact I remember thinking
hmmm I wonder what my drill bit just ran into when I drilled the nutplates
:-) oops. You know how it is. Some days you're just not so good at
airplaining.
-Ben Westfall
#40579 - Gas Tanks
Portland, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 8:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder cable exits on tailcone
I used the same parts from spruce. I wanted the cables to be removable
in case of, well I don't know what exactly... I used countersunk #6
screw nutplates. That also allowed me to have the fairings slightly
more aft to "capture" the cable sleeve. One thing that I learned though
is that putting the one screw directly in line with the opening makes it
tougher to install the cables later. If I had it to do again, I might
use 4 screws instead of 3 so I could keep the one out of the way for the
cable sleeve, or just offset the one in the front to one side of the
hole. Here's a picture:
http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Tailcone%208.
html
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 4:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder cable exits on tailcone
I used parts from Aircraft Spruce,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ruddercable.php you can
get them from Cleveland, Wicks and others no doubt.
"DDD" is my shorthand for doing the "*D*rill, *D*ebur, and *D*imple"
Dance, as your have learned by now, you get LOTS of practice at this!
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> Who used what here? I remember a recent post regarding 3rd party
> parts for this. I see something called 'DDD' in Mr Deems tailcone.
> Looking for advice here before I start riveting on the top skin.
>
> Thanks!
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Control Rod Rigging/Clearance |
Thanks Jesse for the post. I'll probably spend the weekend checking
lengths and angles again!
Brian
http://www.mykitlog.com/rv10builder
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> OK, I have finally been through this point and, as promised, am going
> to provide a little feedback on the jigs that Vans has us make to rig
> the controls.
>
> First of all, with the aft-most pushrod for the elevator, getting the
> elevator rigged correctly (91.4 degrees on the bellcrank by the
> battery) required me to shorten the pushrod 6 or 7 full threads from
> the measurement in the plans. This got the elevators in trail and the
> bellcrank at the angle required.
>
> Second, with both of the forward elevator pushrods, having made them
> the length called out, I only had to lengthen one of them one full
> thread to get the elevator in trail using the little measuring bar
> from the spar forward to the welded control arm in the front. With
> this rigged, the only place that touched with full elevator travel was
> the cross-control-bar on the front of the hole in the F-1048L&R as
> seen in the attached picture. A little grinding on that an we are good
> to go.
>
> For those of you who are working on this, please dont forget to put
> the front bearing of the front pushrod on the end of the rod that was
> drilled for the safety wire. It is a pain in the neck getting that
> fixed after everything is installed. Ask me how I know.
>
> So, in summary, I guess not all planes are the same, but I am very
> glad that the little rigging parts are designed for us. They certainly
> do work (for me).
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>
> www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>
>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
>
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Baggage door lock |
Other than using the lock from Van's which comes with the magneto switch
from the Van's catalog, does anyone know of another lock that will work with
the parts that Van's includes in the Kit.
Or are there any marking or numbers on the lock that Van's sells so that I
can locate it at a lock shop.
I went to a lock shop yesterday and we went through a lot of cam locks and
non of them accepted the swing lever that was included in the kit.
Reason for not buying the Van's lock----I am probably not using the Magneto
switch.
Thanks,
John G. 409
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Organization |
Speaking of the Sportair workshops, anyone going to be at next weekends
in OSH? I'll be at the composite class. I'm a repeat offender of them
and always learn something.
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 4:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Shop Organization
<bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
When they were making "From the Ground Up," I was over at Oshkosh for a
SportAir workshop and they let us tour the "set" (it was the hangar)
where Joe Schumacher was building the plane. It was a FABULOUS workshop
(perhaps you've seen the videos). One thing I thought was cool is he
made an A-frame structure on casters. On one side he mounted all of the
plans, so you could flip it up and over.
On the other side he had several rows of trays...with baby-food jars
holding all the parts in an organized fashion.
I didn't construct the A-frame, but I did make a unit with shelvesof
baby food jars, each holding a difference sized , rivet, platenut,
screw, washer etc.
I also created spreadsheets as I unpacked each subkit, indicating where
I put it, so that when it came time -- usually months later, sometimes
years, I'd just fire up the spreadsheet and look it up.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://rvhotline.expercraft.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88962#88962
Message 45
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| Subject: | shoulder harness wear blocks |
Am I going blind? I can not find the F-6114B and C wear blocks in my
supply pile nor can I find those parts listed in the "Bag Lists". Are
they to be made out of stock material, or what? Help!! Jay Rowe
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door lock |
John, Aircraft Spruce makes the locks and the switches that Van's sells,
you can buy the locks directly from ACS, they sell them in pairs.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> Other than using the lock from Van's which comes with the magneto
> switch from the Van's catalog, does anyone know of another lock that
> will work with the parts that Van's includes in the Kit.
>
> Or are there any marking or numbers on the lock that Van's sells so
> that I can locate it at a lock shop.
>
> I went to a lock shop yesterday and we went through a lot of cam locks
> and non of them accepted the swing lever that was included in the kit.
>
> Reason for not buying the Van's lock----I am probably not using the
> Magneto switch.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John G. 409
>
>
Message 47
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| Subject: | Rudder cable exits on tailcone |
Yea - happily that's one time where I almost got it right... I put the
nutplate attach stuff BEFORE I riveted the tailcone skin on. Yay. So
dimpling and riveting was an easy task. Sometimes I'm good at
airplaining! :)
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 2:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder cable exits on tailcone
Chris,
I somewhat copied your design when I was working on the tailcone except
I
went ahead and put 4 screws in instead of 3. I haven't run the cables
through the tailcone yet so I can't say if it ends up being better or
not.
You can see some pictures here:
http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/rudder-fairing/
You will notice in the 5th picture I ended up using a flush pop-rivet
because my nutplate rivet hole ended up being right inline with the
angle
aluminum on second to last bulkhead in the tailcone. I couldn't come up
with a way to buck the rivet. Dimpling the nutplate attach holes with
the
pop-rivet dimple die was quite challenging. It took quite a few 4
letter
expletives to complete. If I would have moved the nutplate about 1/4"
toward the back life would have been easier. In fact I remember
thinking
hmmm I wonder what my drill bit just ran into when I drilled the
nutplates
:-) oops. You know how it is. Some days you're just not so good at
airplaining.
-Ben Westfall
#40579 - Gas Tanks
Portland, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 8:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder cable exits on tailcone
<CJohnston@popsound.com>
I used the same parts from spruce. I wanted the cables to be removable
in case of, well I don't know what exactly... I used countersunk #6
screw nutplates. That also allowed me to have the fairings slightly
more aft to "capture" the cable sleeve. One thing that I learned though
is that putting the one screw directly in line with the opening makes it
tougher to install the cables later. If I had it to do again, I might
use 4 screws instead of 3 so I could keep the one out of the way for the
cable sleeve, or just offset the one in the front to one side of the
hole. Here's a picture:
http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Tailcone%208.
html
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 4:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder cable exits on tailcone
I used parts from Aircraft Spruce,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ruddercable.php you can
get them from Cleveland, Wicks and others no doubt.
"DDD" is my shorthand for doing the "*D*rill, *D*ebur, and *D*imple"
Dance, as your have learned by now, you get LOTS of practice at this!
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> Who used what here? I remember a recent post regarding 3rd party
> parts for this. I see something called 'DDD' in Mr Deems tailcone.
> Looking for advice here before I start riveting on the top skin.
>
> Thanks!
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door lock |
John,
You can buy the lock separately from Spruce&Specialty--I did--because
I'm not using a Mag switch either.
Dave Lammers
fuselage
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> Other than using the lock from Van's which comes with the magneto
> switch from the Van's catalog, does anyone know of another lock that
> will work with the parts that Van's includes in the Kit.
>
> Or are there any marking or numbers on the lock that Van's sells so
> that I can locate it at a lock shop.
>
> I went to a lock shop yesterday and we went through a lot of cam locks
> and non of them accepted the swing lever that was included in the kit.
>
> Reason for not buying the Van's lock----I am probably not using the
> Magneto switch.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John G. 409
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Text inserted by Panda Platinum 2005 Internet Security:
>
> This message has NOT been classified as spam. If it is unsolicited
> mail (spam), click on the following link to reclassify it:
> http://127.0.0.1:6083/Panda?ID=pav_40529&SPAM=true
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>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: shoulder harness wear blocks |
Jay,
Look for a strip of white nylon sheet material ....you need to fabricate them.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 50
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| Subject: | Fiberglass supplies needed? |
OK!
I'm ready to start the fiberglass work.
What materials do I need on hand to do the job right?
And what new tools do I get to buy? ;-)
My short list so far is:
Fiberglass cloth
Fiberglass matt
Microballons
Flox
Resin (which brand?, how much?)
Hardener
Pump?
Epoxy to attach fairings (again, what brand & how much?)
Primer/filler (not the dreaded primer topic again......please)
Thinner
Acetone
Sander(s)
etc............
ERic--
40014
Fiberglass Finishing
Message 51
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| Subject: | Fiberglass supplies needed? |
Eric
I highly recommend using West Marine Epoxy for everything (no Resin).
Things I would get:
Epoxy
Fast hardener and Slow hardener - 106 and 105
Pump set (West Marine)
9 oz cloth, oz cloth (West Marine or Aircraft Spruce), get some really thin
stuff for around window seams and fairing seams
Peal Ply (Dacron)- goes on top of lay-ups to soak up excess epoxy. Pulls off
after cure - (Aircraft Spruce)
Rotary cutter (Aircraft Spruce)
Microballons and Cabisil (Aircraft Spruce)
Plastic spreaders/squeegees
Box large tongue depressors (Aircraft Spruce)
8oz. Paper mixing cups (Aircraft Spruce)
Large box of latex or nitrile gloves (Costco)
Couple dozen 1" chip brushes (Harbor freight)
Durafoam (I think thats the name) long hard foam sanding bars (18" or so)
(Auto paint store)
40 and 80 3M sandpaper in 18" sticky backed strips - 40 grit is a real time
saver (Auto paint store)
UV Smoothprime (Aircraft Spruce)
SuperFill (Aircraft Spruce)
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
FWF, engine, wiring
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Parlow
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 10:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass supplies needed?
OK!
I'm ready to start the fiberglass work.
What materials do I need on hand to do the job right?
And what new tools do I get to buy? ;-)
My short list so far is:
Fiberglass cloth
Fiberglass matt
Microballons
Flox
Resin (which brand?, how much?)
Hardener
Pump?
Epoxy to attach fairings (again, what brand & how much?) Primer/filler (not
the dreaded primer topic again......please) Thinner Acetone
Sander(s)
etc............
ERic--
40014
Fiberglass Finishing
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