Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:05 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Bob Leffler)
2. 04:22 AM - Re: Lettering for Panels (Bob Leffler)
3. 04:31 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Tim Olson)
4. 04:42 AM - Re: Elevator movement (Jesse Saint)
5. 04:44 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Jesse Saint)
6. 04:46 AM - Re: Site(s) down today (Rob Kermanj)
7. 05:23 AM - Lettering for Panels (Snow, Daniel A.)
8. 05:24 AM - Re: Elevator movement (David Maib)
9. 05:31 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (gary)
10. 05:35 AM - Re: Lettering for Panels (Deems Davis)
11. 05:50 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (David Maib)
12. 05:51 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Dsyvert@aol.com)
13. 06:52 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Kelly McMullen)
14. 07:14 AM - Re: Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim ()
15. 08:16 AM - Re: Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
16. 08:20 AM - Painting around Window Perimeter (Niko)
17. 08:48 AM - Re: Electric Rudder Trim (orchidman)
18. 09:36 AM - Re: Elevator movement (John Jessen)
19. 10:28 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Scott Schmidt)
20. 10:33 AM - Re: HID landing light review (Scott Schmidt)
21. 11:01 AM - Re: Elevator movement (Jesse Saint)
22. 05:10 PM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Mark Ritter)
23. 08:51 PM - Re: Elevator movement (Dave Leikam)
24. 09:03 PM - My panel (Dave Leikam)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Dave,
Your illustration helped immensely.
A couple questions...
The servo arm appears not to be perpendicular to the trim tab. I'm
assuming that there must not be any issues with the hinge binding, since it
is this way on both your and Vic's rudders. I guess I'm just looking for
validation that isn't the case.
I just spent about 15 minutes on Van's site looking for the access plate
information to order. I couldn't find it. If I could trouble you to find
those part numbers, I would be very appreciative.
Thanks,
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dsyvert@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Group,
I'm sending this one more time with the attachment. I wasn't happy with
the description and dimensions. Again sorry about that! Bob, the main thing
is to order the access cover and backing plate and lay it out with the plate
in hand before cutting. However, you could make one yourself.
Hope this helps. If not let me know. Also, if anyone has any comments
feel free.
Dave Syvertson
Message 2
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| Subject: | Lettering for Panels |
I recently finished an aluminum overlay for my Cherokee 180. I used
Aircraft Engravers to engrave the painted panel. They turned the panel
around in about a week. For more info: www.engravers.net
<http://www.engravers.net/> .
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Niko
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 6:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lettering for Panels
I have been wondering how people do lettering in their instument panels.
Anyone care to volunteer some info?
Niko
40188 on Cabin Cover
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Bob, I think this is the part, if he used the same one as Vic.
From Van's, when I ordered:
Part Number: VA-195C
Quantity: 2
Unit Price: 3.80
Part Number: VA-195D
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: 2.65
I got 2 of the doublers because one builder said when he did them
they were thin so he used 2.....or maybe it was that he wrecked
one. Can't remember which right now.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Bob Leffler wrote:
> Dave,
> Your illustration helped immensely.
>
> A couple questions.
>
> The servo arm appears not to be perpendicular to the trim tab. Im
> assuming that there must not be any issues with the hinge binding, since
> it is this way on both your and Vics rudders. I guess Im just
> looking for validation that isnt the case.
> I just spent about 15 minutes on Vans site looking for the access plate
> information to order. I couldnt find it. If I could trouble you to
> find those part numbers, I would be very appreciative.
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Elevator movement |
That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with
the
AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull
that
bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to
the
pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a time,
where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on
the
AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a
time
to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not
that
the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few
washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when
tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get
that
hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting
in
the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended up
having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling.
Also,
on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead
of a
block of wood as Van=92s suggests, and make sure that when you measure
to
drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other,
because
that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having
the
horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over =BD
inch
out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say
that
they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is
pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator movement
Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the
freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag
freely.
They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit
tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center
bolt
under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth
movement
just the same. Anyone have this experience?
Dave Leikam
40496
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
If you are looking for the parts like are used for the stall warning system,
they are VA-195C for the Access Hatch Doubler and VA-195D for the Access
Hatch.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 7:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Dave,
Your illustration helped immensely.
A couple questions...
The servo arm appears not to be perpendicular to the trim tab. I'm
assuming that there must not be any issues with the hinge binding, since it
is this way on both your and Vic's rudders. I guess I'm just looking for
validation that isn't the case.
I just spent about 15 minutes on Van's site looking for the access plate
information to order. I couldn't find it. If I could trouble you to find
those part numbers, I would be very appreciative.
Thanks,
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dsyvert@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Group,
I'm sending this one more time with the attachment. I wasn't happy with
the description and dimensions. Again sorry about that! Bob, the main thing
is to order the access cover and backing plate and lay it out with the plate
in hand before cutting. However, you could make one yourself.
Hope this helps. If not let me know. Also, if anyone has any comments
feel free.
Dave Syvertson
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Site(s) down today |
Hello Tim. Tried to sign-up on the Chelton site. Seem to have
difficulty with the Confirmation Code. I was offered three chances
and failed all. Perhaps the site is still down?
Thanks,
Rob Kermanj
On Jan 26, 2007, at 2:29 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> John, your wish is my command...I did it as fast as I could.
>
> Sorry to everyone who tried to get to my site(s) today but
> couldn't. I had been running on Fedora Core 3 for a good
> couple of years or more and lately I've been playing with it
> a bit more when I added the Chelton EFIS forum. It was
> getting a bit out of date on some packages, being an older
> OS. The real damage came though when I did some destruction
> to it when I thought I was logged into a new server I was
> building at work. This a.m. I awoke to find things in a
> bit of a mess, and I got a bit carried away trying to
> revive it.
>
> Some of those skills fade fast, so it took a bit of memory
> and debugging, but I now have most of the stuff I used
> to have, all running on a new Fedora Core 6 install.
> Hopefully this will make it nicer to maintain in the
> future anyway.
>
> I'm going to reboot it in the a.m. Friday just to make sure
> it all starts up smooth, but otherwise it should be all
> ready to go.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> John Dunne wrote:
>> <acs@acspropeller.com.au>
>> Well be quick about it!
>> Having you offline is like having the whole quality control dept
>> out on leave! :-)
>> 7.00 am, public holiday in Aus and off to the shed.
>> what addiction?
>> John 40315
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 7:03 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Site(s) down today
>>>
>>> Had a small issue with my server that snowballed quickly when
>>> I got to screwing with it. So I ditched the whole thing
>>> and am rebuilding it on a new platform from the ground up.
>>> Sorry the site is down, but at least I have email again now.
>>> I'll get it going soon.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Lettering for Panels |
I used Camera Graphics in Oregon to produce rub-off letters. You supply
them with a .doc and .pdf file, they create a master sheet, and then
copy the master to a transfer sheet. My 8-1/2" x 11" sheet cost $65
including shipping. I was very pleased with the outcome. It has the
same professional appearance as silkscreening.
You can contact them at 503-234-1967 or email them at
transfers@cgpdx.com. Mr. Zell is very good to work with. He sends an
invoice with the order, and turnaround time for mine was only a day or
two.
Time: 03:18:41 PM PST US
From: Niko <owl40188@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Lettering for Panels
I have been wondering how people do lettering in their instument panels.
A
nyone care to volunteer some info?=0A=0ANiko=0A40188 on Cabin Cover
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator movement |
My drill bushing did not fit the bearing at all. Since I do not have
access to a lathe, I did as the plans suggest and worked it down with
a file. My horns were a bit out of alignment, but not enough to cause
any problems. I used a block of wood per the plans and believe I got
the holes lined up very well. I will be fitting it all together this
weekend, so will know for sure if everything is OK.
David Maib
#40559
On Jan 26, 2007, at 6:41 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with
the AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would
pull that bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are
connected to the pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding
one thing at a time, where the problem is. I know it is a pain to
get those washers in on the AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things
and then adding them one at a time to see what makes the difference
would be my suggestion. If it is not that the holes are misaligned,
then it could be that you have too many/few washers around that
bearing and it is getting a little distorted when tightened and
putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get that hold a
little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not
fitting in the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed,
but we ended up having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do
that drilling. Also, on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a
block of aluminum instead of a block of wood as Van=92s suggests, and
make sure that when you measure to drill the first horn that it is
not hanging lower than the other, because that might put you too
close to the edge of the second. Anybody having the horns quite a
bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over =BD inch out of
alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say that
they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it
is pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator movement
Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install,
the freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag
freely. They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but
just a bit tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed
the center bolt under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They
have very smooth movement just the same. Anyone have this experience?
Dave Leikam
40496
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
=========
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
He does not have an e-mail address to my knowledge.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 9:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Gary for us poor souls overseas, can you please provide an email contact for
Aero-trim?
Regards from downunder - current temp. 75F and sunny for you folks in the
cold up north!
Patrick Pulis
#40299
Adelaide
South Australia
DO NOT ARCHIVE
_____
From: gary [mailto:speckter@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, 26 January 2007 11:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Some have inquired about Aero-trim here is the info.
Aero-trim is a one man company. He does not have a website. I did find
more info at www.globalav.com.au/productDetails1.asp?supplierID=30 - 45k
The contact info is
Aero-trim
1130 102 ST
Bay Harbor FL 35154
305-864-3336
_____
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Lettering for Panels |
Dan, How is the lettering protected from scratching/abrasion? Did you
seal the letters with anything (clearcoat?) This looks like an excellent
option,
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Snow, Daniel A. wrote:
>
>I used Camera Graphics in Oregon to produce rub-off letters. You supply
>them with a .doc and .pdf file, they create a master sheet, and then
>copy the master to a transfer sheet. My 8-1/2" x 11" sheet cost $65
>including shipping. I was very pleased with the outcome. It has the
>same professional appearance as silkscreening.
>
>You can contact them at 503-234-1967 or email them at
>transfers@cgpdx.com. Mr. Zell is very good to work with. He sends an
>invoice with the order, and turnaround time for mine was only a day or
>two.
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Norm does not have an email address. He is very hard of hearing and a
bit forgetful. I have his rudder trim kit and he forgot to send me
the instructions, so it took a couple of more calls to get them faxed
to me. I have not installed it yet, but it looks like a nice quality
kit. Norm is fun to talk with and pleasant to do business with. Ask
him about the King of Sweden. ( a happy customer according to Norm )
David Maib
#40559
On Jan 26, 2007, at 7:31 AM, gary wrote:
He does not have an e-mail address to my knowledge.
Gary
40274
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 9:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Gary for us poor souls overseas, can you please provide an email
contact for Aero-trim?
Regards from downunder - current temp. 75F and sunny for you folks in
the cold up north!
Patrick Pulis
#40299
Adelaide
South Australia
DO NOT ARCHIVE
From: gary [mailto:speckter@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, 26 January 2007 11:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Some have inquired about Aero-trim here is the info.
Aero-trim is a one man company. He does not have a website. I did
find more info at www.globalav.com.au/productDetails1.asp?
supplierID=30 - 45k
The contact info is
Aero-trim
1130 102 ST
Bay Harbor FL 35154
305-864-3336
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List_-
============================================================ _-
forums.matronics.com_-
===========================================================
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Bob,
Sorry I can't remember the part number and can't seem to find it. For
the servo I'm using the Ray Allen Co. T3-12A like Vic. You need to be aware
that the arm is not centered on the servo but offset. This is why you should
have the parts before cutting so you can lay it out. As far as the servo arm
being perpendicular, both mine and his are. On his it looks like he put his
plate parallel to the ground and then attached the servo to plate at an angle
so
the arm is perpendicular to the trailing edge. Also the servo would be
parallel to the trailing edge. I did mine a bit different. I installed the access
plate parallel to the trailing edge and not to the ground. Either way works.
I'm still putting mine together whereas Vic's flying so I may have a
hick up, but I think it will work.
Dave Syvertson
40625
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Norm reports in the Mooney Mapa pub, that he had a very bad case of
pneumonia that required surgery on one lung, 1 month hospital stay,
month in rehab center before he could go home. So I would expect he
hasn't been too responsive.
David Maib wrote:
> Norm does not have an email address. He is very hard of hearing and a
> bit forgetful. I have his rudder trim kit and he forgot to send me the
> instructions, so it took a couple of more calls to get them faxed to
> me. I have not installed it yet, but it looks like a nice quality kit.
> Norm is fun to talk with and pleasant to do business with. Ask him
> about the King of Sweden. ( a happy customer according to Norm )
>
> David Maib
> #40559
>
> On Jan 26, 2007, at 7:31 AM, gary wrote:
>
> He does not have an e-mail address to my knowledge.
>
> Gary
>
> 40274
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick Pulis
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 25, 2007 9:04 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
>
>
>
> Gary for us poor souls overseas, can you please provide an email
> contact for Aero-trim?
>
>
>
> Regards from downunder - current temp. 75F and sunny for you folks in
> the cold up north!
>
>
>
> Patrick Pulis
>
> #40299
>
> Adelaide
>
> South Australia
>
>
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* gary [mailto:speckter@comcast.net]
> *Sent:* Friday, 26 January 2007 11:44 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
>
> Some have inquired about Aero-trim here is the info.
>
> Aero-trim is a one man company. He does not have a website. I did
> find more info at
> www.globalav.com.au/productDetails1.asp?supplierID=30
> <http://www.globalav.com.au/productDetails1.asp?supplierID=30> - 45k
>
>
>
> The contact info is
>
> Aero-trim
>
> 1130 102 ST
>
> Bay Harbor FL 35154
>
> 305-864-3336
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> * *
> * *
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
> * *
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> * *
> * - The RV10-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space"> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space"> --> http://forums.matronics.com*
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Thanks for looking.......
Now I've got a couple more...
In the pictures on Tim's site, Vic has a Ray Allen T2-7A servo. I see from Ray
Allen's site tht the difference from the one you used is about a half inch in
travel. Is that variance significant?
Also, do you have a source for the T adapter that is on the hinge?
Am I getting thrown off by the trim cover being parallel to the ground that makes
the servo arm not to be perpedicular to the hinge?
Thanks to Tim and Jesse for providing the access cover part numbers.
Once I get all this information, I'll add to Dave's and Vic's docs and give to
Tim so minimize the leg work for those that follow us.
bob
>
> From: Dsyvert@aol.com
> Date: 2007/01/26 Fri AM 08:50:48 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
>
> Bob,
>
> Sorry I can't remember the part number and can't seem to find it. For
> the servo I'm using the Ray Allen Co. T3-12A like Vic. You need to be aware
> that the arm is not centered on the servo but offset. This is why you should
> have the parts before cutting so you can lay it out. As far as the servo arm
> being perpendicular, both mine and his are. On his it looks like he put his
> plate parallel to the ground and then attached the servo to plate at an angle
so
> the arm is perpendicular to the trailing edge. Also the servo would be
> parallel to the trailing edge. I did mine a bit different. I installed the access
> plate parallel to the trailing edge and not to the ground. Either way works.
>
> I'm still putting mine together whereas Vic's flying so I may have a
> hick up, but I think it will work.
>
> Dave Syvertson
> 40625
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Just to further foster the "build it yourself" mantra of late. The
"T" adapter is nothing more than 2 pieces of AL bent into opposing "L"
shapes and drilled. If you have any scrap AL sheet around (of the
proper thickness) you can easily make your own cover plates. I copied
the one that came with my kit for use in various places. No sense in
paying shipping or the handling charge for something like that. With my
hat shelf project I ended up buying a sheet of aluminum from Airparts so
I had a bunch left over for things like that. Great company and they
are always at OSH.
Vic's seems to work fine but I would think you would want at least a
total of 1" of travel on the servo. Not completely for the hinge travel
but to also allow a little more leeway in adjusting for the
installation.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Limbo
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rvmail@thelefflers.com
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: Re: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Thanks for looking.......
Now I've got a couple more...
In the pictures on Tim's site, Vic has a Ray Allen T2-7A servo. I see
from Ray Allen's site tht the difference from the one you used is about
a half inch in travel. Is that variance significant?
Also, do you have a source for the T adapter that is on the hinge?
Am I getting thrown off by the trim cover being parallel to the ground
that makes the servo arm not to be perpedicular to the hinge?
Thanks to Tim and Jesse for providing the access cover part numbers.
Once I get all this information, I'll add to Dave's and Vic's docs and
give to Tim so minimize the leg work for those that follow us.
bob
>
> From: Dsyvert@aol.com
> Date: 2007/01/26 Fri AM 08:50:48 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
>
> Bob,
>
> Sorry I can't remember the part number and can't seem to find it.
For
> the servo I'm using the Ray Allen Co. T3-12A like Vic. You need to be
aware
> that the arm is not centered on the servo but offset. This is why you
should
> have the parts before cutting so you can lay it out. As far as the
servo arm
> being perpendicular, both mine and his are. On his it looks like he
put his
> plate parallel to the ground and then attached the servo to plate at
an angle so
> the arm is perpendicular to the trailing edge. Also the servo would
be
> parallel to the trailing edge. I did mine a bit different. I installed
the access
> plate parallel to the trailing edge and not to the ground. Either way
works.
>
> I'm still putting mine together whereas Vic's flying so I may
have a
> hick up, but I think it will work.
>
> Dave Syvertson
> 40625
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Painting around Window Perimeter |
I am getting close to installing windows and I have been wondering, when pa
inting, do most people paint the perimeter of the windows and windshield i
n order to cover the glue joint? In there any kind of sealer between the w
indows and the Cabin Cover? Is the glue visible?=0A=0Athanks=0A=0ANiko=0A4
0188
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
rvbuilder(at)sausen.net wrote:
> The "T" adapter is nothing more
> than 2 pieces of AL bent into opposing "L" shapes and drilled. If you
> have any scrap AL sheet around (of the proper thickness) you can easily make
your own cover plates.
> ...
> Vic's seems to work fine but I would think you would want at least a
> total of 1" of travel on the servo. Not completely for the hinge travel
> but to also allow a little more leeway in adjusting for the
> installation.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Limbo
>
> --
The T adapter is just 2 pieces of AL. Vic's measurements as I noted in an earlier
message is .5" from the hinge surface to the center of the hole for the push
rod.
If you were to go with a servo different then Vic's servo which was a T2-7A as
detailed in the pictures on Tim's site, you will have to change the T adapter
dimensions and or geometry. With the T2-7A servo extended to its max (right deflection
of the hinge) the threaded push rod is almost touching the rudder body.
As to adjustments, I set my initial dimensions up based on both of the threaded
rod ends screwed all the way on with the servo centered. That way, if I need
to extend the rod dimensions, I have 2 ends in which I can un-screw the rod.
I would guess I would have a total of .75 that I could extend safely. And if
I needed to shorten things, the rod would be easily trimmed.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N410GB reserved)
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90603#90603
Message 18
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| Subject: | Elevator movement |
Where do you get a block of al that size? And why use it instead of the
wood? Is it more exacting?
John J
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 4:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with
the
AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull
that
bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to
the
pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a time,
where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on
the
AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a
time
to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not
that
the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few
washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when
tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get
that
hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting
in
the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended up
having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling.
Also,
on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead
of a
block of wood as Van=92s suggests, and make sure that when you measure
to
drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other,
because
that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having
the
horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over =BD
inch
out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say
that
they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is
pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator movement
Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the
freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag
freely.
They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit
tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center
bolt
under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth
movement
just the same. Anyone have this experience?
Dave Leikam
40496
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Thanks for all the info on this. This is the project I am going to tackle this
weekend. I am going to add a wedge to the rudder to get it real close then I
plan on using a smaller hinge as added adjustment.
At 100 hours now and I am going through everything and fixing the little things
that don't work. I ordered my Aeroshell 6 grease for the prop, I had my panel
dimmer control box go out on me (I guess they had a bad batch of boxes and had
to rebuild it), I had a bad connector on my #2 COM (found out the connector
was shorted), my wheel pants are being painted this weekend, still trying to
figure out why my magnetometer on the Grand Rapids isn't working right, I'm going
to check the fuel filter, and I want to add the O2 system. I added the GPS
antenna from Antcom and now my Chelton works perfectly. Before I was losing
GPS signal with the little antenna that D2Avionics sent with the screens.
I am planning a trip to Houston (Conroe) on Feb. 17th. I will be there all week.
So far everything has been working great (other than listed above).
I took a flight in a 172 on Monday and Wednesday and totally forgot about the killer
performance of a 172. When I pushed the throttle in I had to ask the guy
next to me if this was sounding normal. He thought that was pretty funny.
But I just wanted to make sure. The difference was 600 RPM and about 1000 ft.
of runway. It did make me aware of why the 172 is such a great and stable trainer.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 9:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
rvbuilder(at)sausen.net wrote:
> The "T" adapter is nothing more
> than 2 pieces of AL bent into opposing "L" shapes and drilled. If you
> have any scrap AL sheet around (of the proper thickness) you can easily make
your own cover plates.
> ...
> Vic's seems to work fine but I would think you would want at least a
> total of 1" of travel on the servo. Not completely for the hinge travel
> but to also allow a little more leeway in adjusting for the
> installation.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Limbo
>
> --
The T adapter is just 2 pieces of AL. Vic's measurements as I noted in an earlier
message is .5" from the hinge surface to the center of the hole for the push
rod.
If you were to go with a servo different then Vic's servo which was a T2-7A as
detailed in the pictures on Tim's site, you will have to change the T adapter
dimensions and or geometry. With the T2-7A servo extended to its max (right deflection
of the hinge) the threaded push rod is almost touching the rudder body.
As to adjustments, I set my initial dimensions up based on both of the threaded
rod ends screwed all the way on with the servo centered. That way, if I need
to extend the rod dimensions, I have 2 ends in which I can un-screw the rod.
I would guess I would have a total of .75 that I could extend safely. And if
I needed to shorten things, the rod would be easily trimmed.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N410GB reserved)
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90603#90603
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | HID landing light review |
When I have people come by my hanger who are building RV-10's I tell
them all to make sure they add the lights. I would add the two if
possible. I would probably add two non-HID's rather than one HID.
Landing at night with the lights Van's provides would be almost
impossible. The HID's really light up the runway nicely but like Tim
said they are more beam lights than flood which I like. You can be
quite a bit away and see the runway.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID landing light review
I got curious since the article on HIDS mentioned prices were lowering.
I checked with Duckworks and hear that the 35w is $380 now. Sure
makes that price look good in comparison to the article prices.
($495 and up) Their price never was even up to that high, if I
can remember right from when I got mine.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Hey I keep forgetting to ask you, do you think two added a lot or
would
> one do? I put one in my left wing and I'm trying to decide if I want
to
> put one in my right wing. I put in the platenuts just in case so its
> not too big of a deal to add.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 7:06 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID landing light review
>
>
> Yes, that's what I have. They really work well once aimed properly.
> They're only 35W, which is both good and bad. Good in that the
> do honestly only draw 6A total or less. Bad in that they
> aren't the biggest, baddest, brightest lights available anymore.
> But, for our small planes, they're plenty bright. I can see
> much much better than in my previous plane that had a 250W
> bulb, which I swapped for 2 100W bulbs. Neither combination
> could even give 1/2 of what I get with these. The 35w vs 50w
> does have the upside in the lower power draw too.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Phillips, Jack wrote:
> <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>> Tim,
>>
>> Don't you have the Duckworks HID system on your plane? Are you happy
>> with it?
>>
>> Jack Phillips
>> #40610
>> Finishing up the elevators
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 7:42 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: HID landing light review
>>
>>
>> Found this on the "generic" RV matronics list today:
>>
>> For a review of HID landing lights, see
>>
>
http://www.preciseflight.com/ufiles/06March_Aviation_Consumer_HID_Articl
>> e_Main.pdf
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Elevator movement |
The bit can work sideways in the wood if you=92re not careful, but if
you get
a block of aluminum and drill it with a drill press, then you have a
good
square hole that will also help hold the bit while drilling. You can
have a
#30, #19 and 3/16=94 hole in the block and move it around for the
different
drill bits to get to final size. There should be a supply house locally
that would have a piece like that.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
Where do you get a block of al that size? And why use it instead of the
wood? Is it more exacting?
John J
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 4:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with
the
AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull
that
bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to
the
pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a time,
where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on
the
AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a
time
to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not
that
the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few
washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when
tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get
that
hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting
in
the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended up
having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling.
Also,
on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead
of a
block of wood as Van=92s suggests, and make sure that when you measure
to
drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other,
because
that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having
the
horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over =BD
inch
out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say
that
they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is
pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator movement
Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the
freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag
freely.
They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit
tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center
bolt
under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth
movement
just the same. Anyone have this experience?
Dave Leikam
40496
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Scott,
If you have time on your trip to Conroe stop in at Lockhart (50R) and the RV
crowd will treat you to some of the best Bar-B-Que in Texas.
FYI Llano (KAQO) and New Braunfels (KBAZ) have $3.00 gas. If you do stop in
Llano take the courtesy car to Coopers for a great meal.
Mark
N410MR
>From: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
>Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 11:26:47 -0700
>
>
>Thanks for all the info on this. This is the project I am going to tackle
>this weekend. I am going to add a wedge to the rudder to get it real close
>then I plan on using a smaller hinge as added adjustment.
>
>At 100 hours now and I am going through everything and fixing the little
>things that don't work. I ordered my Aeroshell 6 grease for the prop, I
>had my panel dimmer control box go out on me (I guess they had a bad batch
>of boxes and had to rebuild it), I had a bad connector on my #2 COM (found
>out the connector was shorted), my wheel pants are being painted this
>weekend, still trying to figure out why my magnetometer on the Grand Rapids
>isn't working right, I'm going to check the fuel filter, and I want to add
>the O2 system. I added the GPS antenna from Antcom and now my Chelton
>works perfectly. Before I was losing GPS signal with the little antenna
>that D2Avionics sent with the screens.
>
>I am planning a trip to Houston (Conroe) on Feb. 17th. I will be there all
>week.
>So far everything has been working great (other than listed above).
>
>I took a flight in a 172 on Monday and Wednesday and totally forgot about
>the killer performance of a 172. When I pushed the throttle in I had to
>ask the guy next to me if this was sounding normal. He thought that was
>pretty funny. But I just wanted to make sure. The difference was 600 RPM
>and about 1000 ft. of runway. It did make me aware of why the 172 is such
>a great and stable trainer.
>
>Scott Schmidt
>sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 9:47 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
>
>
>
>rvbuilder(at)sausen.net wrote:
> > The "T" adapter is nothing more
> > than 2 pieces of AL bent into opposing "L" shapes and drilled. If you
> > have any scrap AL sheet around (of the proper thickness) you can easily
>make your own cover plates.
> > ...
> > Vic's seems to work fine but I would think you would want at least a
> > total of 1" of travel on the servo. Not completely for the hinge travel
> > but to also allow a little more leeway in adjusting for the
> > installation.
> >
> > Michael Sausen
> > -10 #352 Limbo
> >
> > --
>
>The T adapter is just 2 pieces of AL. Vic's measurements as I noted in an
>earlier message is .5" from the hinge surface to the center of the hole for
>the push rod.
>If you were to go with a servo different then Vic's servo which was a T2-7A
>as detailed in the pictures on Tim's site, you will have to change the T
>adapter dimensions and or geometry. With the T2-7A servo extended to its
>max (right deflection of the hinge) the threaded push rod is almost
>touching the rudder body.
>As to adjustments, I set my initial dimensions up based on both of the
>threaded rod ends screwed all the way on with the servo centered. That
>way, if I need to extend the rod dimensions, I have 2 ends in which I can
>un-screw the rod. I would guess I would have a total of .75 that I
>could extend safely. And if I needed to shorten things, the rod would be
>easily trimmed.
>
>--------
>Gary Blankenbiller
>RV10 - # 40674
>(N410GB reserved)
>do not archive
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90603#90603
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Check out all that glitters with the MSN Entertainment Guide to the Academy
Awards http://movies.msn.com/movies/oscars2007/?icid=ncoscartagline2
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator movement |
I unbolted the center bearing at the top of the elevator horns and sure
enough, the hole on the top of the right horn is a touch lower than it
needs to be. Just enough to cause the horn to flex up less than 1 mm
with the bolt in. This is causing the bind. Now what to do?
I followed the plans and put the drill bushing in my DeWalt 12 volt and
put a file to it until it fit into the bearing. No problem with that.
The bottom holes of the horn came out fine as well using the wood block.
Dave Leikam
40496
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 6:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with
the AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would
pull that bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are
connected to the pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one
thing at a time, where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those
washers in on the AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then
adding them one at a time to see what makes the difference would be my
suggestion. If it is not that the holes are misaligned, then it could
be that you have too many/few washers around that bearing and it is
getting a little distorted when tightened and putting drag on the
system. It is not hard at all to get that hold a little off center, so
that is where I would recommend looking.
BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting
in the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended
up having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling.
Also, on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum
instead of a block of wood as Van's suggests, and make sure that when
you measure to drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than
the other, because that might put you too close to the edge of the
second. Anybody having the horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have
seen some that are over =BD inch out of alignment and others that are
perfectly lined up. The plans say that they might not be quite right,
but that is a lot of variation.
Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it
is pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
To: matronics
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator movement
Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the
freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag
freely. They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but
just a bit tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed
the center bolt under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have
very smooth movement just the same. Anyone have this experience?
Dave Leikam
40496
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
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Thought I'd post a picture of me sitting in front of my new panel. ;-)
(Actually this is compliments of the 128th sim at MKE. I landed it
twice in Hawaii and did a full power on stall loaded very lite. What a
ride!)
Dave
do not archive
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