Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:50 AM - Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. (Robert Woods)
2. 05:02 AM - Re: Re: Wow! (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
3. 05:03 AM - Tools to Sell (Mike Doble (Home Office))
4. 05:20 AM - Flaring Tool (Michael Wellenzohn)
5. 05:51 AM - Re: Tools to Sell (MauleDriver)
6. 05:54 AM - Re: Flaring Tool (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
7. 06:06 AM - Re: Flaring Tool (Tim Olson)
8. 06:12 AM - Re: Re: Wow! (gary)
9. 06:21 AM - Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. (Bobby J. Hughes)
10. 07:11 AM - Re: Flaring Tool (Werner Schneider)
11. 07:11 AM - Re: How does this tank test kit work? (reubanks)
12. 07:11 AM - Re: Flaring Tool (Michael Wellenzohn)
13. 07:28 AM - Re: Tools to Sell (Les Kearney)
14. 07:38 AM - Re: Wow! (John Cram)
15. 07:43 AM - Re: Re: Wow! (Shawn Moon)
16. 07:53 AM - Re: Tools to Sell (John Cram)
17. 08:07 AM - Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. (Phillips, Jack)
18. 08:08 AM - Re: Tools to Sell (Pascal)
19. 08:19 AM - Re: Re: Wow! (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
20. 08:32 AM - Re: Re: Wow! (Tim Olson)
21. 08:35 AM - Re: Tools to Sell (Shawn Moon)
22. 08:59 AM - Re: How does this tank test kit work? (Jesse Saint)
23. 09:27 AM - Re: Tools to Sell (Larry Rosen)
24. 09:36 AM - Re: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. (Jesse Saint)
25. 09:44 AM - Re: IO 540 Performance (Dave & Brenda Emond)
26. 09:58 AM - Re: Fuel Return? (Jesse Saint)
27. 10:15 AM - Re: IO 540 Performance (Tim Olson)
28. 10:17 AM - Re: Tools to Sell (Pascal)
29. 10:18 AM - Re: IO 540 Performance (Pascal)
30. 10:49 AM - Re: Re: IO 540 Performance ()
31. 10:54 AM - Re: IO 540 Performance (Dave & Brenda Emond)
32. 10:58 AM - Re: Fuel Return? (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
33. 01:01 PM - Re: Fuel Return? (Eric Parlow)
34. 03:09 PM - Re: Elevator movement (Dave Leikam)
35. 04:30 PM - Re: Fuel Return? (Jesse Saint)
36. 04:44 PM - Re: Elevator movement (John Gonzalez)
37. 04:44 PM - Re: Re: Wow! (JmsFrnch@aol.com)
38. 05:10 PM - Re: Elevator movement (Dave Leikam)
39. 05:56 PM - Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. (Jay Rowe)
40. 06:04 PM - Re: Fuel Return? (linn Walters)
41. 06:35 PM - Re: Fuel Return? ()
42. 06:54 PM - Re: Fuel Return? (Jesse Saint)
43. 06:55 PM - Re: Fuel Return? (Eric Panning)
44. 07:27 PM - Re: Fuel Return? (bob.kaufmann)
45. 07:51 PM - Re: Fuel Return? (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
46. 08:11 PM - Re: Elevator movement (John Gonzalez)
47. 08:28 PM - Re: Wow! (Ronald L Owen)
48. 09:05 PM - Re: IO 540 Performance (Kelly McMullen)
49. 10:02 PM - Re: Wow! (RV_10)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday |
p.m.
I don't even have the emp kit yet and I'm in!!
Robb.....192RL reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by
Wednesday p.m.
Wonderful, you're #51!
Tim
Roger Standley wrote:
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> I will take a set.
>
> Roger
> #40291
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Tim Olson <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 28, 2007 4:41 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by
> Wednesday p.m.
>
> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
>
> Good news, everyone...
>
> Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my
> drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from
> the install posted here:
>
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions
>
> Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and
> since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate
> a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least
> 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other
> people
> were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to
> make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to
> see if pricing will be any lower.
>
> My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and
> $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively)
>
> Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions
> for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them
> now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order
> them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's
> way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be
> a small delay before they start making them.
> You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's
> stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to
> cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit
> to paying for them.
>
> What you'll get:
> 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so
> they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly
> replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts,
> so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut.
> You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that
> will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall
> off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm
> going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3)
> MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required
> to attach them.
>
> Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16"
> and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring
> so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and
> torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill
> out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small
> cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins.
> Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw.
>
> Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to
> make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same
> time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the
> same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round
> any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and
> done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than
> my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair,
> all complete to your door with the hardware.
>
> One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going
> to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48
> states only so I can use USPS Priority mail.
>
> Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want
> them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm
> crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and
> it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep
> the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for
> this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably
> easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this
> because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and
> it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your
> local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that
> we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal
> or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because
> we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;)
> If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that
> they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're
> just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;)
>
> If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not
> proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first.
>
> Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD -
>
> ==============================================http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<=======================nbsp;
> title=http://forums.matronics.com/
>
> href="http://fo=======================================================
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 2
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Outstanding. Never can tell how things will go. U have me on the list so
here is my info.
Doug Preston
2726 Paden Trail
Birmingham, AL 35226
#40372
C-205-873-2955
Thanks again.
dp
Message 3
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All - I'm convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot Dave
Leikam.).
Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, I'll call Avery
or Cleveland Tool.
Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the tail
cone skins without wrinkles.
Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to
remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel).
Mike
Builder 40691. Working on my tail..20 hrs so far.
Message 4
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Quick question which flaring tool will I need? Any suggestions which are affordable
and deliver good quality?
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91549#91549
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tools to Sell |
Re the tail skins. The key for me so far is to backrivet as much as
possible. I've been using a 12" X 30" X 3/8" steel plate (it doesn't
have to be polished or milled flat) along with several pieces of 3/8"
packing box plywood. I found that the Cleaveland backrivet set does a
*much* better job than the ATS set I started with (see below) The long
backrivet set along with a short one helps a lot too. Almost ever rivet
forward of the 2 rearmost bulkheads can be back riveted. I haven't done
the top skin yet.
I plan to use the backrivet set and the backrivet bucking bar from
Cleaveland for the top skin - but I'm looking for other advice here.
From my previous post on backrivet sets:
I've been using the backrivet set from ATS and getting acceptable
results. However, I recently had my first opportunity to use a 12" long
backrivet from Cleaveland and discovered that it was easier to get good
results.
The ATS has a thick plastic collar that I had to grind a flat spot on in
order to get squarely on the J stiffener rivets. I've hit it twice more
with the grinder to ease access on other rivets.
The ATS also has a convex face on the set. I found that unless the set
was well centered and straight, it was easy to get tilted, concave shop
heads.
The Cleaveland 12" tool (or whoever's tool they distribute) has a thin
plastic collar and I found it fit the J stiffeners very nicely. The face
of the set is flatter and it's easier to get square, flat shop heads. I
just ordered their normal length backrivet set and understand it is
setup the same as the 12".
Mike Doble (Home Office) wrote:
>
> All Im convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot
> Dave Leikam).
>
> Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, Ill call
> Avery or Cleveland Tool.
>
> Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the
> tail cone skins without wrinkles.
>
> Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to
> remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel).
>
> Mike
>
> Builder 40691. Working on my tail20 hrs so far.
>
Message 6
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Over everything else, make sure it is a 37 degree tool. All our
fittings are 37 degrees which is different from normal automotive and
other applications.
That being said the Roloflare from Parker Hannifin is very popular and
I like it. I believe it's around a Benjamin from the usual suspects
such as:
http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TRF37
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 limbo
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 7:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flaring Tool
<michael@wellenzohn.net>
Quick question which flaring tool will I need? Any suggestions which are
affordable and deliver good quality?
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91549#91549
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool |
I have the Parker Rolo-Flare and it seems to be
a reasonable price and a good tool.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Quick question which flaring tool will I need? Any suggestions which are affordable
and deliver good quality?
>
> Thanks
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (wings)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91549#91549
>
>
Message 8
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I don't know if you have my GA address
3030 Orchard RD SW
Conyers GA 30094
Thanks for all this work. You are appreciated
Gary
PS Come on down and warm up sometime.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 12:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wow!
Time to call it a day. Pretty much spent a lot of time
returning emails and making lists today. You guys are
pretty overwhelming. ;) You know, I had wondered if we
could get 20 people together to make the cost low. As
it turns out, today we're at 125....PEOPLE. That's 250
machined extensions. I am truly amazed. That's almost
1/5th of the current kit sales, all wanting parts within
a little over 24 hours. Total costs with my local sales
tax will come to just about $4700 at this point, if the
quote stays the same. And after that, there's bolts
and shipping and stuff. Whoda thunkit? But, RV guys
are about the most reliable people I've met, so as much
as it gets spooky, it's gonna happen. Still, no checks
should be sent yet. Let's get the total costs figured
out first. With a group this large, I'll have to
quick get an estimate on all the packaging stuff and
just make sure it all gets covered. I'm hoping that
a large number of people like Paypal, as it sure beats
going to the bank and writing a deposit slip up for
125 checks. ;) I checked on paypal fees and if I read
it right, it's 2.9%+ $.30, so it only adds about $1.75
roughly.
So there's about 36 hours left and I close the doors on
the deal and start the gears of procurement and production.
To you guys this may be a cool way to get some parts....
for me it's turning into a mind-blowing experience. ;)
I do appreciate all the offers of help. I just so far
think if I can just get all of you to send your mailing
addresses in so I can complete my spreadsheet fields,
it should go pretty smoothly.
Sorry that they told me to expect a 2 week timeframe
for manufacture. I'll see if I can get that reduced
if possible.
Thanks for the support for your positive comments.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. |
Tim,
I will take a pair.
Thanks,
Bobby Hughes
40116
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 6:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by
Wednesday p.m.
Good news, everyone...
Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my
drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from the
install posted here:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_o
f_new_extensions
Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and since
some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate a group
order for extensions that look like these. I had at least
2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people
were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to
make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to
see if pricing will be any lower.
My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and
$24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively)
Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions
for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them
now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order them
from the machining company and get the hardware on it's way to me. They
need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be a small delay before
they start making them.
You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's stupid,
but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to cover the
production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit to paying for
them.
What you'll get:
1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so they
don't require the large flat washer. They should directly replace the
original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, so you have one as a
spare, for bolting them to the axle nut.
You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that will be
1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall off as easily
(mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm going to send you (3)
MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3)
MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required to
attach them.
Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16"
and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring so
much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and
torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill out the
hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small cotter pins,
install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins.
Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw.
Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to make it
easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same time, and I'll
throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the same time. I'll split the
costs of everything evenly, and round any costs up to the next highest
dollar. When all is said and done, I'll tell you if the total with
shipping is any higher than my expectations...which would be between $45
and $55 per pair, all complete to your door with the hardware.
One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going to
make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 states only
so I can use USPS Priority mail.
Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want
them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm crazy
enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and it might
be harder to get a good list of people together to keep the price down.
If for some reason we can't get 10 people for this order, I won't
bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably easily make the 20
pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this because after
installing them I know they worked well for me, and it'll keep you all
from spending a fortune on one-offs from your local machinist. In the
spirit of "no up front money" that we have today, you can send your
payment either via paypal or by check after you get them. I know
everyone will pay up, because we're all nice people and if you don't,
I'll tell the list on you. ;) If you pay by paypal though, add a little
to cover the fees that they charge. Tips are not required, but will be
accepted if you're just so happy after getting them that you really want
to. ;)
If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not
proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first.
Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool |
Hi Michael,
you could for sure borough this tools from another Swiss builder, as
this are common tools more or less used for all the aircraft's plumbing.
Take care
Werner
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Quick question which flaring tool will I need? Any suggestions which are affordable
and deliver good quality?
>
> Thanks
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (wings)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91549#91549
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: How does this tank test kit work? |
Hi Dan,
Yes, I used the entire URL before I sent the reply.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91572#91572
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Flaring Tool |
Great thanks guys for the help. All the shipping costs just hurt though.
So far I paid well over 3k $ just for shipping :x
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91573#91573
Message 13
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Mike
Call the yardstore (www.yardstore.com <http://www.yardstore.com/> ) as
they
sell good quality *used* pneumatic squeezers and they stand behind what
they
sell.
Cheers
Les Kearney
Rv10 # 40643 - Not riveting due to wristus fractus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Doble
(Home
Office)
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tools to Sell
All - I'm convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot
Dave
Leikam.).
Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, I'll call
Avery
or Cleveland Tool.
Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the
tail
cone skins without wrinkles.
Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to
remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel).
Mike
Builder 40691. Working on my tail..20 hrs so far.
Message 14
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Tim, Add me to your extender list.
John Cram
2809 Westchester Cir.
Pearland, TX, 77584
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Olson<mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wow!
<Tim@MyRV10.com<mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
No problem Jeff. I've had a bunch of offers of help, but what gets
me is that if I shipped them somewhere for reshipping, that just
increases the cost...so I'm trying to keep it low. You're probably
right on the pricing...the old quote for 40 was $17.75, so it's
likely going to be lower now by a ways. I'm up to 90 people, for
180 units. At $15 that's $2700 to spend on the machining. ;)
It's far more quantity than I figured it would be, but it's
do-able. As long as people are helping with the international
stuff, that makes it easier. The reason I went USPS is because
you get the box for free and it's a flat-rate charge that should
be identical. I doubt that the manufacturer will want to deal
with shipping, but for this one-shot thing, I don't mind.
We'll just see how good it all gets. I know some people are
wanting these a.s.a.p, so I'm going to hold to a Thursday
8am CST deadline and then just have some made up. At that point
at least I'll know how much hardware to order. Glad I didn't
do that this a.m. or I'd be WAAAY short.
You know, this would make a heck of a lot more sense if I was
still building and needed a pair. Call me a sucker, but
you guys have just grown on me over the past 3 years. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
<jeff@westcottpress.com<mailto:jeff@westcottpress.com>>
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> My time spent estimating tells me that these are costing $11.00 each
> after the initial set up costs... so that an order of 150 pieces
should
> wind up around 14.50 each... or $29.00 per pair... but I'd imagine
that
> you're really going to be looking at ordering between 250 and 300
pieces
> by the time the dust settles on this. For example,I think I'll be
> ordering two pair, as Nick Gautier is building around the corner
from me
> and I just need to confirm that he wants them as well.
>
> I am concerned that you'll be spending a big chunk of your time
shipping
> these out as the list grows and don't think any of us want you to
have
> to go through all that. Perhaps the manufacturer is set up for UPS
> shipping and for a nominal fee they can handle that for you. I'd be
> happy to forgo some of the savings from this amazing group buy to
save
> you that time and effort.... or you could drop ship a batch to me
and a
> few others around the country and we could split up the work of
getting
> them all out.
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Jan 29, 2007, at 7:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
<Tim@MyRV10.com<mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
>>
>> There you have it, another great guy steps up to the
>> plate to help those over the ocean.
>>
>> What a group we have.
>>
>> 77 now. Dan, did you want them for you or are you just
>> doing the straight shaft ones on the cheap?
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>>> <LloydDR@wernerco.com<mailto:LloydDR@wernerco.com>>
>>> Tim for everyone in Europe and further East I will help with the
>>> packaging and sending. Just send me the list of people and I will
make
>>> sure it gets out to them. I think there was one from Germany, and
I do
>>> not know how many others, but I can help.
>>> Dan
>>> N289DT -----Original Message-----
>>> From:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matron
ics.com>
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Olson
>>> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 9:18 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Wow!
<Tim@MyRV10.com<mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
>>> I would have never guessed...my inbox is filling up as fast as I
>>> can reply, and we're up to 72 now. I think I'm going to be a
>>> busy guy.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List>
Message 15
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Ok, so I must have missed it somewhere, but what is the issue that the exte
nsions address? Hopefully I am not the only person wondering this. I real
ly try to keep up, but with the amount of e-mails this list generates I som
etimes miss things trying to catch up.=0A=0A--Shawn=0A40366=0A=0A----- Orig
inal Message ----=0AFrom: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matron
ics.com=0ASent: Monday, January 29, 2007 11:35:12 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-Li
m>=0A=0ATime to call it a day. Pretty much spent a lot of time=0Areturning
emails and making lists today. You guys are=0Apretty overwhelming. ;) Y
ou know, I had wondered if we=0Acould get 20 people together to make the co
st low. As=0Ait turns out, today we're at 125....PEOPLE. That's 250=0Amac
hined extensions. I am truly amazed. That's almost=0A1/5th of the current
kit sales, all wanting parts within=0Aa little over 24 hours. Total costs
with my local sales=0Atax will come to just about $4700 at this point, if
the=0Aquote stays the same. And after that, there's bolts=0Aand shipping a
nd stuff. Whoda thunkit? But, RV guys=0Aare about the most reliable peop
le I've met, so as much=0Aas it gets spooky, it's gonna happen. Still, no
checks=0Ashould be sent yet. Let's get the total costs figured=0Aout first
. With a group this large, I'll have to=0Aquick get an estimate on all the
packaging stuff and=0Ajust make sure it all gets covered. I'm hoping that
=0Aa large number of people like Paypal, as it sure beats=0Agoing to the ba
nk and writing a deposit slip up for=0A125 checks. ;) I checked on paypal
fees and if I read=0Ait right, it's 2.9%+ $.30, so it only adds about $1.75
=0Aroughly.=0A=0ASo there's about 36 hours left and I close the doors on=0A
the deal and start the gears of procurement and production.=0ATo you guys t
his may be a cool way to get some parts....=0Afor me it's turning into a mi
nd-blowing experience. ;)=0A=0AI do appreciate all the offers of help. I j
ust so far=0Athink if I can just get all of you to send your mailing=0Aaddr
esses in so I can complete my spreadsheet fields,=0Ait should go pretty smo
othly.=0A=0ASorry that they told me to expect a 2 week timeframe=0Afor manu
facture. I'll see if I can get that reduced=0Aif possible.=0A=0AThanks for
the support for your positive comments.=0A=0ATim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Fl
========0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A_________________
___________________________________________________________________=0ANeed
a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.=0AAsk your questio
n on www.Answers.yahoo.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tools to Sell |
Good luck getting someone to part with their squeezer. It is a "Charlton
Heston" tool. Cold dead hands speech>>>>>
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney<mailto:kearney@shaw.ca>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tools to Sell
Mike
Call the yardstore (www.yardstore.com<http://www.yardstore.com/>) as
they sell good quality *used* pneumatic squeezers and they stand behind
what they sell.
Cheers
Les Kearney
Rv10 # 40643 - Not riveting due to wristus fractus
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matron
ics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Doble (Home Office)
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:03 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Tools to Sell
All - I'm convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot
Dave Leikam.).
Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, I'll call
Avery or Cleveland Tool.
Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the
tail cone skins without wrinkles.
Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to
remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel).
Mike
Builder 40691. Working on my tail..20 hrs so far.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List>
Message 17
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| Subject: | RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. |
Tim,
I'll take a set as well. Any chance they'll be ready by Sun 'n' Fun?
If you are going to SNF maybe you could distribute them there.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
millstees@ameritech.net
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 8:52 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by
Wednesday p.m.
Tim:
I'll take a pair
Steve Mills
RV-10 40486 Slow-build
Naperville, Illinois
finishing fuselage
Do Not Archive
630-308-7476
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by
Wednesday p.m.
Tim,
I will take a set. Thank you so much for all you do for this group of
builders. Fantastic!
David Maib
#40559
struggling with elevator trim (grrrrrr)
On Jan 28, 2007, at 6:41 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
Good news, everyone...
Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my
drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from
the install posted here:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/
index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions
Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and
since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate
a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least
2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people
were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to
make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to
see if pricing will be any lower.
My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and
$24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively)
Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions
for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them
now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order
them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's
way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be
a small delay before they start making them.
You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's
stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to
cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit
to paying for them.
What you'll get:
1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so
they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly
replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts,
so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut.
You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that
will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall
off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm
going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3)
MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required
to attach them.
Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16"
and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring
so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and
torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill
out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small
cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins.
Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw.
Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to
make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same
time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the
same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round
any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and
done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than
my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair,
all complete to your door with the hardware.
One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going
to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48
states only so I can use USPS Priority mail.
Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want
them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm
crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and
it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep
the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for
this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably
easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this
because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and
it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your
local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that
we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal
or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because
we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;)
If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that
they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're
just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;)
If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not
proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first.
Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
_________________________________________________
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Tools to Sell |
Check out Brown Tools
http://www.browntool.com/productselect.asp?ProductID=767 they have the
lowest price I have seen for a new squeezer
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Doble (Home Office)
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 5:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tools to Sell
All - I'm convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot
Dave Leikam.).
Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, I'll call
Avery or Cleveland Tool.
Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the
tail cone skins without wrinkles.
Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to
remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel).
Mike
Builder 40691. Working on my tail..20 hrs so far.
Message 19
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Apparently several people have experienced bolt failures because the
structure isn't beefy enough. I'm sure those people will chime in with
the exact facts. I'm not flying so I'm just going by my interpretation
from previous accounts. These failures can cause your wheel pant to
come loose and cause a host of other problems. I would go as far as to
say it is a short coming in the design of the part but I might get
lambasted for it. Wait, since when do I care. It's a shortcoming in
the part that will be more prevalent depending on the types of operation
that you perform. Hard landings and soft surface being the two things
that exasperate the problem. I'm guessing Van's will eventually correct
the problem but for now it is left to the builders. No sense in Van
changing things to accommodate just a few people that may have the
problem. Oops, there I go again. J
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Limbo
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wow!
Ok, so I must have missed it somewhere, but what is the issue that the
extensions address? Hopefully I am not the only person wondering this.
I really try to keep up, but with the amount of e-mails this list
generates I sometimes miss things trying to catch up.
--Shawn
40366
----- Original Message ----
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 11:35:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wow!
Time to call it a day. Pretty much spent a lot of time
returning emails and making lists today. You guys are
pretty overwhelming. ;) You know, I had wondered if we
could get 20 people together to make the cost low. As
it turns out, today we're at 125....PEOPLE. That's 250
machined extensions. I am truly amazed. That's almost
1/5th of the current kit sales, all wanting parts within
a little over 24 hours. Total costs with my local sales
tax will come to just about $4700 at this point, if the
quote stays the same. And after that, there's bolts
and shipping and stuff. Whoda thunkit? But, RV guys
are about the most reliable people I've met, so as much
as it gets spooky, it's gonna happen. Still, no checks
should be sent yet. Let's get the total costs figured
out first. With a group this large, I'll have to
quick get an estimate on all the packaging stuff and
just make sure it all gets covered. I'm hoping that
a large number of people like Paypal, as it sure beats
going to the bank and writing a deposit slip up for
125 checks. ;) I checked on paypal fees and if I read
it right, it's 2.9%+ $.30, so it only adds about $1.75
roughly.
So there's about 36 hours left and I close the doors on
the deal and start the gears of procurement and production.
To you guys this may be a cool way to get some parts....
for me it's turning into a mind-blowing experience. ;)
I do appreciate all the offers of help. I just so far
think if I can just get all of you to send your mailing
addresses in so I can complete my spreadsheet fields,
it should go pretty smoothly.
Sorry that they told me to expect a 2 week timeframe
for manufacture. I'll see if I can get that reduced
if possible.
Thanks for the support for your positive comments.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
<b -->
<http://www.matronics.com/N---------%20NEW%20MATRONICS%20
WEB%20FORUMS%20=--%20--%3e%20%3ca%20target=>
<http://www.matronics.com/N---------%20NEW%20MATRONICS%20
WEB%20FORUMS%20=--%20--%3e%20%3ca%20target=>
===========
<http://www.matronics.com/N---------%20NEW%20MATRONICS%20
WEB%20FORUMS%20=--%20--%3e%20%3ca%20target=>
<http://www.matronics.com/N---------%20NEW%20MATRONICS%20
WEB%20FORUMS%20=--%20--%3e%20%3ca%20target=>
<http://www.matronics.com/N---------%20NEW%20MATRONICS%20
WEB%20FORUMS%20=--%20--%3e%20%3ca%20target=>
<http://www.matronics.com/N---------%20NEW%20MATRONICS%20
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<http://www.matronics.com/N---------%20NEW%20MATRONICS%20
WEB%20FORUMS%20=--%20--%3e%20%3ca%20target=>
<http://www.matronics.com/N---------%20NEW%20MATRONICS%20
WEB%20FORUMS%20=--%20--%3e%20%3ca%20target=>
<http://www.matronics.com/N---------%20NEW%20MATRONICS%20
WEB%20FORUMS%20=--%20--%3e%20%3ca%20target=>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 20
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Shawn,
Here's a page I set up:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html
Basically, we owe it all to Russ Daves, who got us started
by telling us his experience where the bolt failed, and
wrecked his wheel fairing. Not cheap or fun. It appears
that the skinny-ness of the normal stem allowed it to rock
back and forth and cause eventual stress cracks on the bolt,
which was only an AN4 to begin with. Then it snapped, and
your fairing can hit the ground or rub on the tire and rip
itself up. Jesse then chimed in that they've had this
happen too. So with a couple of known cases, people
started thinking.
My initial reaction was that perhaps there was something
different with the installation that caused it to fail
easier since I had more time on mine with no problems.
BUT, looking at how it's made, it's easy to see how it
could break. So I put it on my to-do list to get some.
At the same time, a couple of offers of manufacturing
came up at $125/pr. I wanted some, but would do just
about anything to not pay that kind of price. I thought
$50 was more realistic....and I set out to prove it
and got quotes that did. The new parts have a wide
base that doesn't allow them to rock, and has a thicker
AN5 Bolt, so if the old was "good enough" for Van's,
the new should be "really good enough".
But, then we get to the issue that the price will indeed
be high if everyone just wanted a single pair from
some machine shop. My own friend said about $80/pr
if he did them on his home lathe. He did mine for free
to see if the design would work. I didn't want to
do anything with large orders unless they fit perfectly
and looked good. Well, they did. I figured maybe 20
people would be interested....but apparently it's
a lot more interesting for people, as they never want
to have to deal with broken fairings or dents in their
plane from a fairing crunch. So they're the popular
item of the week, since I'm only doing one order of
them. I do believe, from talking to a couple of people,
that when the dust settles, you'll find that someone
will start making and selling these at some in-between
price....so it's not an emergency to get them right
away. But, for now this will be a way to get them
as cheap as possible. I'll feel like a bit of a heel
though if suddenly Van's offers the same thing
as a replacement part. ;) (haven't heard a peep from
them)
So anyway, that's the nutshell.
Tim
do not archive
Shawn Moon wrote:
> Ok, so I must have missed it somewhere, but what is the issue that the
> extensions address? Hopefully I am not the only person wondering this.
> I really try to keep up, but with the amount of e-mails this list
> generates I sometimes miss things trying to catch up.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Tools to Sell |
Mike,=0A I use the mushroom set with rubber guard that you are referring
to. At first I didn't like it because the rubber was to thick and the riv
et popped out a little bit. I ended up trimming down the rubber and it wor
ks great now. Much easier to do single-person riveting with the rubber "ho
lding" the rivet gun in place. Prior to doing that I had sworn off single-
person riveting with a bucking bar. I have not used the swivel one so I ca
n't comment on that.=0A=0A--Shawn=0A40366=0A=0A----- Original Message ----
=0AFrom: Mike Doble (Home Office) <mikedoble@wi.rr.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@mat
ronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 7:03:15 AM=0ASubject: RV10-Lis
t: Tools to Sell=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A =0A=0A =0A=0A=0A<!--=0A=0A /* St
yle Definitions */=0A p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal=0A{margin
:0in;=0Amargin-bottom:.0001pt;=0Afont-size:12.0pt;=0Afont-family:"Times New
Roman";}=0Aa:link, span.MsoHyperlink=0A{color:blue;=0Atext-decoration:u
nderline;}=0Aa:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed=0A{color:purple;=0Atex
t-decoration:underline;}=0Aspan.EmailStyle17=0A{=0Afont-family:Arial;=0A
color:windowtext;}=0A _filtered {=0Amargin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;}=0Adi
v.Section1=0A{}=0A-->=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AAll ' I=92m convinced now th
at I need a pneumatic squeezer=0A(thanks a lot Dave Leikam=85).=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A=0AAny of you that are done want to part with yours??? If=0Anot, I
=92ll call Avery or Cleveland Tool.=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0AAlso, there was so
me discussion a few weeks ago about how to=0Arivet the tail cone skins with
out wrinkles.=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0ADoes anyone know what mushroom set was s
uggested for=0Athis? I seem to remember the Cleveland =0Aset with rubber g
uard (not the swivel).=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0AMike=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0ABuild
er 40691. Working on my tail=85=8520 hrs=0Aso far.=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0A
=========================0A
-========================
============0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A______________
______________________________________________________________________=0AIt
's here! Your new message! =0AGet new email alerts with the free Yahoo! To
olbar.=0Ahttp://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
Message 22
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| Subject: | How does this tank test kit work? |
Either I got a different kit, or we are looking at things differently,
because it worked for me. You put a balloon on the vent fitting and seal it
with a rubberband, put the tank fitting in the finger strainer and cap it
with the cap that comes in the kit, then put the little valve stem dealy
(technical term) in the sump hole, cap the tank with the filler cap and fill
with air until the balloon fills up and then check for leaks.
Hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 6:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: How does this tank test kit work?
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Unfortunately, almost everything in that kit is useless and doesn't
apply to the -10. You will have to improvise most of it.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Limbo
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 2:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: How does this tank test kit work?
<michael@wellenzohn.net>
Hello I purchased Vans tank test kit but how should this fuel feed cover
is supposed to work? Am I missing something here?
Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91096#91096
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20070128_wings_01_503.jpg
--
5:02 PM
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Tools to Sell |
Try ebay for the pneumatic squeezer.
Use this for the search string, including the brackets.
(squeezer,squeazer,squeezers,squeazers,squeeze,squeaze) (rivet, rivit)
They are tough to find, but you may get lucky. Nothing on ebay now
unless you are looking for a Tatco hand squeezer.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
Mike Doble (Home Office) wrote:
>
> All Im convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot
> Dave Leikam).
>
> Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, Ill call
> Avery or Cleveland Tool.
>
> Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the
> tail cone skins without wrinkles.
>
> Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to
> remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel).
>
> Mike
>
> Builder 40691. Working on my tail20 hrs so far.
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday |
p.m.
Tim,
Please put me down for 3 sets.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AndrewTR30
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 10:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by
Wednesday p.m.
Tim, add me to the buyers list please.
Andrew Rayhill
Phoenix
--------
Andrew Rayhill
RV-10 40078
Phoenix
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91484#91484
--
5:02 PM
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|
| Subject: | Re: IO 540 Performance |
I am looking for a copy of the performance specs for a Lycoming IO 540 -
D4A5, or similar 260hp Lyco.
Power curves etc!
Dave Emond
40159
Message 26
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This is how we did it in the tunnel (the line on the right above the brake
line is the return line). It can then go out to that tank or can "T" into
that line and you will want to pull from the other tank when purging the hot
fuel (if you are doing it that way). Has anybody else lined up the fuel
system to allow for straight lines connecting the pump, filter and flowscan?
Am I missing the reason they are not lined up to start with?
Hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Parlow
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 6:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
Looking for input and suggestions on plumbing a fuel return.
I'm planning ahead and installing it in preparation for a future electronic
fuel system.
And farther out the diesel engine................. ;-)
Both systems will require a fuel return to the tank.
With the Subaru's(Eggenfellner) needing this now I assume it's being done
already.
They have a good instruction page on how to install a return in -6A on their
site.
ERic--
--
5:02 PM
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: IO 540 Performance |
Here you go:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/engine_IO540.html
do not archive
Dave & Brenda Emond wrote:
> I am looking for a copy of the performance specs for a Lycoming IO 540 -
> D4A5, or similar 260hp Lyco.
>
> Power curves etc!
>
> Dave Emond
> 40159
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tools to Sell |
toolsez on ebay http://stores.ebay.com/Toolsez-1 always has squeezers and
guarantee the product for 90 days. They usually sell the squeezers (ab)used
for between $255-300 range. There is a Tatco 214 3000 psi squeezer out there
ends Feb5 (Sunday). If you're into taking chances this is a decent company
to do so with. If I was going to buy a squeezer today (I would not tell
everyone about this one ;-) I would bid on the Tatco since it's rare there
is anything "new" for sale. But truthfully for a 125K plane I would just get
the right tools and buy it new. No used power tools that may just not be
smooth anymore for me, and ebay has many of those.. but than again you might
just get lucky. You a gambling person? Ebay may be the place for your
aircraft tools!
Pascal
opinion subject to change without notice with the right sales on ebay.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tools to Sell
>
> Try ebay for the pneumatic squeezer.
>
> Use this for the search string, including the brackets.
> (squeezer,squeazer,squeezers,squeazers,squeeze,squeaze) (rivet, rivit)
>
> They are tough to find, but you may get lucky. Nothing on ebay now unless
> you are looking for a Tatco hand squeezer.
>
> Larry Rosen
> N205EN (reserved)
>
> Mike Doble (Home Office) wrote:
>>
>> All Im convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot
>> Dave Leikam).
>>
>> Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, Ill call
>> Avery or Cleveland Tool.
>>
>> Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the
>> tail cone skins without wrinkles.
>>
>> Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to
>> remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel).
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Builder 40691. Working on my tail20 hrs so far.
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: IO 540 Performance |
I believe Tim Olsen's site has everything you ever need for information.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave & Brenda Emond
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: IO 540 Performance
I am looking for a copy of the performance specs for a Lycoming IO 540
- D4A5, or similar 260hp Lyco.
Power curves etc!
Dave Emond
40159
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: IO 540 Performance |
At Tims web site:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/engine_IO540.html
===========================================================
From: "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond@mweb.co.za>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: IO 540 Performance
I am looking for a copy of the performance specs for a Lycoming IO 540 - D4A5,
or similar 260hp Lyco.
Power curves etc!
Dave Emond
40159
===========================================================
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: IO 540 Performance |
Thanks Tim
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: IO 540 Performance
>
>
> Here you go:
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/engine_IO540.html
>
> do not archive
>
> Dave & Brenda Emond wrote:
>> I am looking for a copy of the performance specs for a Lycoming IO 540 -
>> D4A5, or similar 260hp Lyco.
>> Power curves etc!
>> Dave Emond
>> 40159
>>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
The one caveat I would like to put out there for Alternative engines
users, is that in the Eggenfellner install, and any other that will
require a high volume pump, the fuel should be returned to the same tank
that it was drawn from, preventing an overflow situation. This is why we
use a duplex fuel valve, so it automagically rolls the return line to
the correct tank.
Dan
N289DT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 12:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
This is how we did it in the tunnel (the line on the right above the
brake
line is the return line). It can then go out to that tank or can "T"
into
that line and you will want to pull from the other tank when purging the
hot
fuel (if you are doing it that way). Has anybody else lined up the fuel
system to allow for straight lines connecting the pump, filter and
flowscan?
Am I missing the reason they are not lined up to start with?
Hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Parlow
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 6:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
Looking for input and suggestions on plumbing a fuel return.
I'm planning ahead and installing it in preparation for a future
electronic
fuel system.
And farther out the diesel engine................. ;-)
Both systems will require a fuel return to the tank.
With the Subaru's(Eggenfellner) needing this now I assume it's being
done
already.
They have a good instruction page on how to install a return in -6A on
their
site.
ERic--
--
5:02 PM
Message 33
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Jesse,
Does your fuel return have a separate selector?
We plan to use the Andair duplex valve (p/n FS 20-20-D2) using -6 lines for
both supply and return.
We also built a "shelf" off the floor of the tunnel to mount the
filter/pump/sensor to.
This allowed us to put 2-3" of insulation directly on the tunnel floor under
the pump/sensor.
Also, we wrapped the brake lines with nylon spiral wrap in the tunnel.
After the insulation was packed into the tunnel for a trial fit we found the
brake and fuel lines could chafe on the shop heads of the rivets directly
below them in the tunnel.
Here's a few pictures of the lines, valve, pass-thrus, parking brake, and
the center console.
ERic--
40014, N104EP
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
This is how we did it in the tunnel (the line on the right above the brake
line is the return line). It can then go out to that tank or can "T" into
that line and you will want to pull from the other tank when purging the hot
fuel (if you are doing it that way). Has anybody else lined up the fuel
system to allow for straight lines connecting the pump, filter and flowscan?
Am I missing the reason they are not lined up to start with?
Hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator movement |
I studied my binding elevators and found the problem. It was two fold,
although I don't think the first part caused binding.
I had posted that the right top elevator horn bearing hole was slightly off.
I simply elongated the hole less than .5 mm and the bolt slides right
through. I don't believe once the washers and bolt are in place and secure
that this will cause any problem.
Second, you must insert several washers between the center bearing and the
elevator horns. The plans stress that you must "fill the gap completely or
the rod end bearings can bind." When I insert washers to take up the space,
on the right side they cause too much pressure and cause the bind. If I
remove one there is a slight gap and after tightening, it binds as well. I
need a washer half the thickness of AN960-416L. Seems odd that such a small
width would cause the binding, but it does. I know this because if I loosen
the bolt through the center bearing, the elevator is smooth as silk. If I
apply side pressure to the elevator, the binding can be felt.
With all hardware installed, everything lines up dead nuts. I just need to
fill that gap without adding lateral pressure. The same gap on the left
side of the bearing accepts two washers with no gap and no excess pressure
and no binding.
So where can I find a washer .016" thick? Or is it .008"? AN960-416LL?
Could I use a stainless one from Ace Hardware if I can find one that will
fit? Or should I just sand one of mine down?
Dave Leikam
40496
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 12:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>
> Thanks for the ideas guys. I have not had a chance to really study the
> misaligned horn hole problem. (that sounded off) I plan to look at the
> problem in depth this week and make a decision on what the best and safest
> action to take will be. I think I know the cause, too much pressure on
> the drill caused the horn to flex up slightly. Let the bit do the work
> guys and gals!
>
> I will have to study the affect on the bottom hole as well. I think I can
> get things straightened out however because the misalignment is very
> small.
>
> The hole is a hair lower than it should be. I think less than 1 mm. If I
> were to elongate the hole up to meet the bearing hole, the only way for
> the horn to shift would be a hair up. Being that the horn is clamped to
> the bearing between washers, and the assembly wants to stay in the aligned
> position, I wonder if the operation would be safe.
> I will probably call Vans for their opinion. I'll post my findings and
> fix.
>
> Lincoln logs, legos and tinker toys were so easy!
>
> Dave
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:36 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>
>
>>
>> Dave and Jesse,
>>
>> Another option not mentioned and this is what i did was to get everything
>> alinged, trailing edges and counterweight arms to the ends of the HS, use
>> the hole which has the most meat around it as the keeper and then
>> fabricate a plate for the other horn which can be riveted with six 4-4
>> rivets. The steel plate should be of equal thickness and same type of
>> steel as the original horn and be long enough to overlap atleast 2 1/2 of
>> the lightening holes in the elev horn. This plate can also have
>> lightening holes.
>>
>> So the idea is to only slightly enlarge the bad hole. Lock everything
>> into alignment, put your plate in with the hole already drilled in it,
>> index everything and lock it down, then drill your rivet holes for
>> fastening the plate to the horn. Everything should be indexed and locked
>> DOWN. The gap between both horn needs to be indexed again with a block of
>> some type of material, perfectly perpendicular hole in all dimensions.
>> The horn should not flex when you clamp this block in place.
>>
>> This will yeild you a perfectly trimmed out trailing edge on both sides
>> and the counterbalance arms to the HS.
>>
>>>From a safety standpoint, if for some damm reason all six rivets
>>>seperated,
>> then the slightly enlarged hole in the original elevator is still there
>> and will keep th plane flying. DO disaster!!!!
>>
>> JOhn G.
>>
>> 409 thinking about those diving mask games.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 08:55:00 -0500
>>>
>>>Dave,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>My first question is, if you get the top hole fixed, what does that do to
>>>your bottom hole? One option is to get another horn and do it again.
>>>The
>>>next option is to make the hole bigger, have a plate welded in there to
>>>make
>>>the new hole. Another option is to have a washer welded in there after
>>>making the hole a little bigger to fit. Another option is to have
>>>someone
>>>weld the hole closed, then redrill the hole (it has to be an expert
>>>welder).
>>>Another option is the just talk to Van's and see what they say. Another
>>>option is to make a new elevator, but I don't recommend this or the first
>>>one.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>There will be a lot of suggestions from others, but these are the ones I
>>>could come up with quickly (I have seen this problem before more than
>>>once,
>>>and we had the hole welded closed and redrilled.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Do not archive.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Jesse Saint
>>>
>>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>>
>>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>>
>>>www.saintaviation.com
>>>
>>>Cell: 352-427-0285
>>>
>>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>>
>>> _____
>>>
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 11:50 PM
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I unbolted the center bearing at the top of the elevator horns and sure
>>>enough, the hole on the top of the right horn is a touch lower than it
>>>needs
>>>to be. Just enough to cause the horn to flex up less than 1 mm with the
>>>bolt in. This is causing the bind. Now what to do?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I followed the plans and put the drill bushing in my DeWalt 12 volt and
>>>put
>>>a file to it until it fit into the bearing. No problem with that. The
>>>bottom holes of the horn came out fine as well using the wood block.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Dave Leikam
>>>
>>>40496
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>From: Jesse <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com> Saint
>>>
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>
>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 6:41 AM
>>>
>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with the
>>>AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull
>>>that
>>>bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to
>>>the
>>>pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a time,
>>>where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on the
>>>AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a
>>>time
>>>to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not
>>>that
>>>the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few
>>>washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when
>>>tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get
>>>that
>>>hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting in
>>>the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended up
>>>having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling.
>>>Also,
>>>on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead of
>>>a
>>>block of wood as Van's suggests, and make sure that when you measure to
>>>drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other, because
>>>that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having
>>>the
>>>horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over
>>>inch
>>>out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say
>>>that
>>>they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is
>>>pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Jesse Saint
>>>
>>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>>
>>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>>
>>>www.saintaviation.com
>>>
>>>Cell: 352-427-0285
>>>
>>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>>
>>>
>>> _____
>>>
>>>
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
>>>To: matronics
>>>Subject: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the
>>>freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag freely.
>>>They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit
>>>tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center
>>>bolt
>>>under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth
>>>movement
>>>just the same. Anyone have this experience?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Dave Leikam
>>>
>>>40496
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>http://forums.matronics.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
>>>/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 35
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|
No, it always goes to the left tank. It is only plumbed in as a purge valve
for fuel servos that allow you to pump cold fuel through the system and get
the hot fuel out to eliminate the hot start problems.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Parlow
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 3:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
Jesse,
Does your fuel return have a separate selector?
We plan to use the Andair duplex valve (p/n FS 20-20-D2) using -6 lines for
both supply and return.
We also built a "shelf" off the floor of the tunnel to mount the
filter/pump/sensor to.
This allowed us to put 2-3" of insulation directly on the tunnel floor under
the pump/sensor.
Also, we wrapped the brake lines with nylon spiral wrap in the tunnel.
After the insulation was packed into the tunnel for a trial fit we found the
brake and fuel lines could chafe on the shop heads of the rivets directly
below them in the tunnel.
Here's a few pictures of the lines, valve, pass-thrus, parking brake, and
the center console.
ERic--
40014, N104EP
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
This is how we did it in the tunnel (the line on the right above the brake
line is the return line). It can then go out to that tank or can "T" into
that line and you will want to pull from the other tank when purging the hot
fuel (if you are doing it that way). Has anybody else lined up the fuel
system to allow for straight lines connecting the pump, filter and flowscan?
Am I missing the reason they are not lined up to start with?
Hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator movement |
Dave,
Did the bag that the drill bushing came in have several thicknesses of
washers, some stainless, some steel? It should have.
Remember to check your counterbalance arms trueness to the rest of the HS
once everything is tightened down. save our emails if further problems are
encountered. Glad it is working out for you.
John G. 409
Do Not Archive
>From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 17:07:52 -0600
>
>
>I studied my binding elevators and found the problem. It was two fold,
>although I don't think the first part caused binding.
>
>I had posted that the right top elevator horn bearing hole was slightly
>off.
>I simply elongated the hole less than .5 mm and the bolt slides right
>through. I don't believe once the washers and bolt are in place and secure
>that this will cause any problem.
>
>Second, you must insert several washers between the center bearing and the
>elevator horns. The plans stress that you must "fill the gap completely or
>the rod end bearings can bind." When I insert washers to take up the
>space,
>on the right side they cause too much pressure and cause the bind. If I
>remove one there is a slight gap and after tightening, it binds as well. I
>need a washer half the thickness of AN960-416L. Seems odd that such a
>small
>width would cause the binding, but it does. I know this because if I
>loosen
>the bolt through the center bearing, the elevator is smooth as silk. If I
>apply side pressure to the elevator, the binding can be felt.
>
>With all hardware installed, everything lines up dead nuts. I just need to
>fill that gap without adding lateral pressure. The same gap on the left
>side of the bearing accepts two washers with no gap and no excess pressure
>and no binding.
>
>So where can I find a washer .016" thick? Or is it .008"? AN960-416LL?
>Could I use a stainless one from Ace Hardware if I can find one that will
>fit? Or should I just sand one of mine down?
>
>Dave Leikam
>40496
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 12:06 AM
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>
>
>>
>>Thanks for the ideas guys. I have not had a chance to really study the
>>misaligned horn hole problem. (that sounded off) I plan to look at the
>>problem in depth this week and make a decision on what the best and safest
>>action to take will be. I think I know the cause, too much pressure on
>>the drill caused the horn to flex up slightly. Let the bit do the work
>>guys and gals!
>>
>>I will have to study the affect on the bottom hole as well. I think I can
>>get things straightened out however because the misalignment is very
>>small.
>>
>>The hole is a hair lower than it should be. I think less than 1 mm. If I
>>were to elongate the hole up to meet the bearing hole, the only way for
>>the horn to shift would be a hair up. Being that the horn is clamped to
>>the bearing between washers, and the assembly wants to stay in the aligned
>>position, I wonder if the operation would be safe.
>>I will probably call Vans for their opinion. I'll post my findings and
>>fix.
>>
>>Lincoln logs, legos and tinker toys were so easy!
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez"
>><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:36 AM
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Dave and Jesse,
>>>
>>>Another option not mentioned and this is what i did was to get everything
>>>alinged, trailing edges and counterweight arms to the ends of the HS, use
>>>the hole which has the most meat around it as the keeper and then
>>>fabricate a plate for the other horn which can be riveted with six 4-4
>>>rivets. The steel plate should be of equal thickness and same type of
>>>steel as the original horn and be long enough to overlap atleast 2 1/2 of
>>>the lightening holes in the elev horn. This plate can also have
>>>lightening holes.
>>>
>>>So the idea is to only slightly enlarge the bad hole. Lock everything
>>>into alignment, put your plate in with the hole already drilled in it,
>>>index everything and lock it down, then drill your rivet holes for
>>>fastening the plate to the horn. Everything should be indexed and locked
>>>DOWN. The gap between both horn needs to be indexed again with a block of
>>>some type of material, perfectly perpendicular hole in all dimensions.
>>>The horn should not flex when you clamp this block in place.
>>>
>>>This will yeild you a perfectly trimmed out trailing edge on both sides
>>>and the counterbalance arms to the HS.
>>>
>>>>From a safety standpoint, if for some damm reason all six rivets
>>>>seperated,
>>>then the slightly enlarged hole in the original elevator is still there
>>>and will keep th plane flying. DO disaster!!!!
>>>
>>>JOhn G.
>>>
>>>409 thinking about those diving mask games.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 08:55:00 -0500
>>>>
>>>>Dave,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>My first question is, if you get the top hole fixed, what does that do
>>>>to
>>>>your bottom hole? One option is to get another horn and do it again.
>>>>The
>>>>next option is to make the hole bigger, have a plate welded in there to
>>>>make
>>>>the new hole. Another option is to have a washer welded in there after
>>>>making the hole a little bigger to fit. Another option is to have
>>>>someone
>>>>weld the hole closed, then redrill the hole (it has to be an expert
>>>>welder).
>>>>Another option is the just talk to Van's and see what they say. Another
>>>>option is to make a new elevator, but I don't recommend this or the
>>>>first
>>>>one.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>There will be a lot of suggestions from others, but these are the ones I
>>>>could come up with quickly (I have seen this problem before more than
>>>>once,
>>>>and we had the hole welded closed and redrilled.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Do not archive.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Jesse Saint
>>>>
>>>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>>>
>>>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>>>
>>>>www.saintaviation.com
>>>>
>>>>Cell: 352-427-0285
>>>>
>>>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>>>
>>>> _____
>>>>
>>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
>>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 11:50 PM
>>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>I unbolted the center bearing at the top of the elevator horns and sure
>>>>enough, the hole on the top of the right horn is a touch lower than it
>>>>needs
>>>>to be. Just enough to cause the horn to flex up less than 1 mm with the
>>>>bolt in. This is causing the bind. Now what to do?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>I followed the plans and put the drill bushing in my DeWalt 12 volt and
>>>>put
>>>>a file to it until it fit into the bearing. No problem with that. The
>>>>bottom holes of the horn came out fine as well using the wood block.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Dave Leikam
>>>>
>>>>40496
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>
>>>>From: Jesse <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com> Saint
>>>>
>>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>
>>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 6:41 AM
>>>>
>>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with
>>>>the
>>>>AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull
>>>>that
>>>>bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to
>>>>the
>>>>pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a time,
>>>>where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on
>>>>the
>>>>AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a
>>>>time
>>>>to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not
>>>>that
>>>>the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few
>>>>washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when
>>>>tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get
>>>>that
>>>>hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting
>>>>in
>>>>the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended up
>>>>having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling.
>>>>Also,
>>>>on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead
>>>>of a
>>>>block of wood as Van's suggests, and make sure that when you measure to
>>>>drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other,
>>>>because
>>>>that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having
>>>>the
>>>>horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over
>>>>inch
>>>>out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say
>>>>that
>>>>they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is
>>>>pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Jesse Saint
>>>>
>>>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>>>
>>>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>>>
>>>>www.saintaviation.com
>>>>
>>>>Cell: 352-427-0285
>>>>
>>>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _____
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
>>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
>>>>To: matronics
>>>>Subject: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the
>>>>freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag
>>>>freely.
>>>>They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit
>>>>tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center
>>>>bolt
>>>>under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth
>>>>movement
>>>>just the same. Anyone have this experience?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Dave Leikam
>>>>
>>>>40496
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
>>>>/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 37
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|
Tim Add me in to your extender list
Jimmy French
150 Prestwick Drive
Davenport
FL 33897
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator movement |
I only found two thicknesses and as I said, there is no combination I can
make which fits perfectly. I need a washer half the thickness of the
thinnest provided. Otherwise, everything is true and smooth. Can I sand a
washer down to the thickness I need?
Dave Leikam
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>
> Dave,
>
> Did the bag that the drill bushing came in have several thicknesses of
> washers, some stainless, some steel? It should have.
>
> Remember to check your counterbalance arms trueness to the rest of the HS
> once everything is tightened down. save our emails if further problems are
> encountered. Glad it is working out for you.
>
> John G. 409
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>>From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 17:07:52 -0600
>>
>>
>>I studied my binding elevators and found the problem. It was two fold,
>>although I don't think the first part caused binding.
>>
>>I had posted that the right top elevator horn bearing hole was slightly
>>off.
>>I simply elongated the hole less than .5 mm and the bolt slides right
>>through. I don't believe once the washers and bolt are in place and
>>secure
>>that this will cause any problem.
>>
>>Second, you must insert several washers between the center bearing and the
>>elevator horns. The plans stress that you must "fill the gap completely
>>or
>>the rod end bearings can bind." When I insert washers to take up the
>>space,
>>on the right side they cause too much pressure and cause the bind. If I
>>remove one there is a slight gap and after tightening, it binds as well.
>>I
>>need a washer half the thickness of AN960-416L. Seems odd that such a
>>small
>>width would cause the binding, but it does. I know this because if I
>>loosen
>>the bolt through the center bearing, the elevator is smooth as silk. If I
>>apply side pressure to the elevator, the binding can be felt.
>>
>>With all hardware installed, everything lines up dead nuts. I just need
>>to
>>fill that gap without adding lateral pressure. The same gap on the left
>>side of the bearing accepts two washers with no gap and no excess pressure
>>and no binding.
>>
>>So where can I find a washer .016" thick? Or is it .008"? AN960-416LL?
>>Could I use a stainless one from Ace Hardware if I can find one that will
>>fit? Or should I just sand one of mine down?
>>
>>Dave Leikam
>>40496
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 12:06 AM
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Thanks for the ideas guys. I have not had a chance to really study the
>>>misaligned horn hole problem. (that sounded off) I plan to look at the
>>>problem in depth this week and make a decision on what the best and
>>>safest action to take will be. I think I know the cause, too much
>>>pressure on the drill caused the horn to flex up slightly. Let the bit
>>>do the work guys and gals!
>>>
>>>I will have to study the affect on the bottom hole as well. I think I
>>>can get things straightened out however because the misalignment is very
>>>small.
>>>
>>>The hole is a hair lower than it should be. I think less than 1 mm. If
>>>I were to elongate the hole up to meet the bearing hole, the only way for
>>>the horn to shift would be a hair up. Being that the horn is clamped to
>>>the bearing between washers, and the assembly wants to stay in the
>>>aligned position, I wonder if the operation would be safe.
>>>I will probably call Vans for their opinion. I'll post my findings and
>>>fix.
>>>
>>>Lincoln logs, legos and tinker toys were so easy!
>>>
>>>Dave
>>>
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez"
>>><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:36 AM
>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>
>>>
>>>><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>>>
>>>>Dave and Jesse,
>>>>
>>>>Another option not mentioned and this is what i did was to get
>>>>everything alinged, trailing edges and counterweight arms to the ends of
>>>>the HS, use the hole which has the most meat around it as the keeper and
>>>>then fabricate a plate for the other horn which can be riveted with six
>>>>4-4 rivets. The steel plate should be of equal thickness and same type
>>>>of steel as the original horn and be long enough to overlap atleast 2
>>>>1/2 of the lightening holes in the elev horn. This plate can also have
>>>>lightening holes.
>>>>
>>>>So the idea is to only slightly enlarge the bad hole. Lock everything
>>>>into alignment, put your plate in with the hole already drilled in it,
>>>>index everything and lock it down, then drill your rivet holes for
>>>>fastening the plate to the horn. Everything should be indexed and
>>>>locked DOWN. The gap between both horn needs to be indexed again with a
>>>>block of some type of material, perfectly perpendicular hole in all
>>>>dimensions. The horn should not flex when you clamp this block in place.
>>>>
>>>>This will yeild you a perfectly trimmed out trailing edge on both sides
>>>>and the counterbalance arms to the HS.
>>>>
>>>>>From a safety standpoint, if for some damm reason all six rivets
>>>>>seperated,
>>>>then the slightly enlarged hole in the original elevator is still there
>>>>and will keep th plane flying. DO disaster!!!!
>>>>
>>>>JOhn G.
>>>>
>>>>409 thinking about those diving mask games.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>>Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 08:55:00 -0500
>>>>>
>>>>>Dave,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>My first question is, if you get the top hole fixed, what does that do
>>>>>to
>>>>>your bottom hole? One option is to get another horn and do it again.
>>>>>The
>>>>>next option is to make the hole bigger, have a plate welded in there to
>>>>>make
>>>>>the new hole. Another option is to have a washer welded in there after
>>>>>making the hole a little bigger to fit. Another option is to have
>>>>>someone
>>>>>weld the hole closed, then redrill the hole (it has to be an expert
>>>>>welder).
>>>>>Another option is the just talk to Van's and see what they say.
>>>>>Another
>>>>>option is to make a new elevator, but I don't recommend this or the
>>>>>first
>>>>>one.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>There will be a lot of suggestions from others, but these are the ones
>>>>>I
>>>>>could come up with quickly (I have seen this problem before more than
>>>>>once,
>>>>>and we had the hole welded closed and redrilled.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Do not archive.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Jesse Saint
>>>>>
>>>>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>>>>
>>>>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>>>>
>>>>>www.saintaviation.com
>>>>>
>>>>>Cell: 352-427-0285
>>>>>
>>>>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>>>>
>>>>> _____
>>>>>
>>>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
>>>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 11:50 PM
>>>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>I unbolted the center bearing at the top of the elevator horns and sure
>>>>>enough, the hole on the top of the right horn is a touch lower than it
>>>>>needs
>>>>>to be. Just enough to cause the horn to flex up less than 1 mm with
>>>>>the
>>>>>bolt in. This is causing the bind. Now what to do?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>I followed the plans and put the drill bushing in my DeWalt 12 volt and
>>>>>put
>>>>>a file to it until it fit into the bearing. No problem with that. The
>>>>>bottom holes of the horn came out fine as well using the wood block.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Dave Leikam
>>>>>
>>>>>40496
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>>
>>>>>From: Jesse <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com> Saint
>>>>>
>>>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>>
>>>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 6:41 AM
>>>>>
>>>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with
>>>>>the
>>>>>AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull
>>>>>that
>>>>>bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to
>>>>>the
>>>>>pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a
>>>>>time,
>>>>>where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on
>>>>>the
>>>>>AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a
>>>>>time
>>>>>to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not
>>>>>that
>>>>>the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few
>>>>>washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when
>>>>>tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get
>>>>>that
>>>>>hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting
>>>>>in
>>>>>the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended
>>>>>up
>>>>>having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling.
>>>>>Also,
>>>>>on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead
>>>>>of a
>>>>>block of wood as Van's suggests, and make sure that when you measure to
>>>>>drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other,
>>>>>because
>>>>>that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having
>>>>>the
>>>>>horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over
>>>>>inch
>>>>>out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say
>>>>>that
>>>>>they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is
>>>>>pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Jesse Saint
>>>>>
>>>>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>>>>
>>>>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>>>>
>>>>>www.saintaviation.com
>>>>>
>>>>>Cell: 352-427-0285
>>>>>
>>>>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _____
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
>>>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
>>>>>To: matronics
>>>>>Subject: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the
>>>>>freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag
>>>>>freely.
>>>>>They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit
>>>>>tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center
>>>>>bolt
>>>>>under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth
>>>>>movement
>>>>>just the same. Anyone have this experience?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Dave Leikam
>>>>>
>>>>>40496
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
>>>>>/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. |
Of course I will need a pair. Jay Rowe #40301. 151 North Shore Lane,
Winthrop, ME 04351 jfrjr@adelphia.net. Thanks Tim--just tell me where to
send the check.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday
p.m.
>
> Good news, everyone...
>
> Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my
> drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from
> the install posted here:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions
>
> Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and
> since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate
> a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least
> 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people
> were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to
> make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to
> see if pricing will be any lower.
>
> My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and
> $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively)
>
> Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions
> for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them
> now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order
> them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's
> way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be
> a small delay before they start making them.
> You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's
> stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to
> cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit
> to paying for them.
>
> What you'll get:
> 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so
> they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly
> replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts,
> so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut.
> You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that
> will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall
> off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm
> going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3)
> MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required
> to attach them.
>
> Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16"
> and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring
> so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and
> torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill
> out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small
> cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins.
> Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw.
>
> Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to
> make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same
> time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the
> same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round
> any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and
> done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than
> my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair,
> all complete to your door with the hardware.
>
> One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going
> to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48
> states only so I can use USPS Priority mail.
>
> Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want
> them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm
> crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and
> it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep
> the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for
> this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably
> easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this
> because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and
> it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your
> local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that
> we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal
> or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because
> we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;)
> If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that
> they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're
> just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;)
>
> If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not
> proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first.
>
> Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Return? |
I've read about 6-way valves and purge valves etc., but haven't had
anyone tell me why the return (for any reason) can't be Td into the line
somewhere between the selector and the mechanical fuel pump. It seems a
far simpler solution to me.
Linn
do not archive
Message 41
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Linn:
There are 2 reasons why that idea is not advisable. 1. The fuel is hot
coming from the injectors, and needs to be cooled in the fuel tank prior to
returning to the engine. 2. to maintain ballance, you need to return the
fuel to the same tank that you took it from, so you do not over fill one
tanks, and empty the other. Your idea would immediately return the hot fuel
to the engine, increasing the likelyhood of vapor lock.
Steve Mills
RV-10 40486 Slow-build
Naperville, Illinois
finishing fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
I've read about 6-way valves and purge valves etc., but haven't had
anyone tell me why the return (for any reason) can't be Td into the line
somewhere between the selector and the mechanical fuel pump. It seems a
far simpler solution to me.
Linn
do not archive
Message 42
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I can't imagine why you couldn't do it that way, but if you are trying to
purge hot fuel and replace it with cold fuel, it is better to put the hot
fuel on the tank side of the selector so you can get cold fuel out of the
other tank from the side you are putting the hot fuel in. I think Allen
Barrett said that just mixing the hot fuel with the cold fuel aft of the
firewall would be good enough, but I like the idea of sending it to the
tank.
Does this make sense?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
I've read about 6-way valves and purge valves etc., but haven't had
anyone tell me why the return (for any reason) can't be Td into the line
somewhere between the selector and the mechanical fuel pump. It seems a
far simpler solution to me.
Linn
do not archive
--
5:02 PM
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Return? |
I've put a return line into the one tank I have built
so far. It is easy to do and I just ordered extra
fittings. In case of ECi engine or diesel, etc.
As to why not to T it back to the incoming line, this
could result in vapor lock. The return line is
pressurized relative to the line from the tank and you
could end up with a fairly high recirc rate (hotter
every loop). Also, I understand that bubbles in the
return fuel line are possible even in normal systems.
You also have the possibility of pressure instabilites
if the line from the tank is small or restricted. Pump
adds X+ pressure to inlet pressure and therefore total
pressure could be higher than expected at fuel
injectors, etc. Final fuel regulator should take care
of this but it is the recipe for a feedback loop.
If you run a tank dry, you may have enough air in the
loop that the pump cannot prime. another issue is it
might build air pressure, preventing draw from a tank,
or vapor lock during ground soak, or ?
Fuel contamination, switching tanks does not "clear
the line" immediately due to local re-circ.
I'm sure there are others. You can try a bench mockup
and look at potential failure modes.
These are good questions to ask of any fuel system.
Eric
40150
--- linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
> I've read about 6-way valves and purge valves etc.,
> but haven't had
> anyone tell me why the return (for any reason) can't
> be Td into the line
> somewhere between the selector and the mechanical
> fuel pump. It seems a
> far simpler solution to me.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 44
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On the Helio Courier, we would run the left tank down an hour, and then burn
from the right tank until we made it run to the point of trim plus half of
what we expected for the remaining flight. We did this because all of the
return went into the left tank and that was one way of keeping the aircraft
in some semblance of trim. We never had a problem with hot fuel operating
in some of the places we flew out of, even when the conditions were less
than perfect. Less than perfect would be the most positive way of
describing it. We would do a lot of takeoff and landings, in "hot"
environments with out a fuel problem.
Bob K
91/89 to go.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
I can't imagine why you couldn't do it that way, but if you are trying to
purge hot fuel and replace it with cold fuel, it is better to put the hot
fuel on the tank side of the selector so you can get cold fuel out of the
other tank from the side you are putting the hot fuel in. I think Allen
Barrett said that just mixing the hot fuel with the cold fuel aft of the
firewall would be good enough, but I like the idea of sending it to the
tank.
Does this make sense?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
I've read about 6-way valves and purge valves etc., but haven't had
anyone tell me why the return (for any reason) can't be Td into the line
somewhere between the selector and the mechanical fuel pump. It seems a
far simpler solution to me.
Linn
do not archive
--
5:02 PM
Message 45
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|
If you are using an alternative engine that has high flow, you would
eventually heat the fuel by looping it, this is why it is returned to
the tank and mixed. But if you are using a Lyco, Jesse states that it is
just a small amount of fuel for the return to dump the hot fuel.
Hope this helps
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Return?
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
I've read about 6-way valves and purge valves etc., but haven't had
anyone tell me why the return (for any reason) can't be Td into the line
somewhere between the selector and the mechanical fuel pump. It seems a
far simpler solution to me.
Linn
do not archive
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator movement |
You can try but the obvious hard part is getting a hold on it while sanding
and making sure the thickness is the same throughout.
DO NOt Archive
>From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@WI.RR.COM>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 19:10:45 -0600
>
>
>I only found two thicknesses and as I said, there is no combination I can
>make which fits perfectly. I need a washer half the thickness of the
>thinnest provided. Otherwise, everything is true and smooth. Can I sand a
>washer down to the thickness I need?
>
>Dave Leikam
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:43 PM
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>
>
>>
>>Dave,
>>
>>Did the bag that the drill bushing came in have several thicknesses of
>>washers, some stainless, some steel? It should have.
>>
>>Remember to check your counterbalance arms trueness to the rest of the HS
>>once everything is tightened down. save our emails if further problems are
>>encountered. Glad it is working out for you.
>>
>>John G. 409
>>
>>Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 17:07:52 -0600
>>>
>>>
>>>I studied my binding elevators and found the problem. It was two fold,
>>>although I don't think the first part caused binding.
>>>
>>>I had posted that the right top elevator horn bearing hole was slightly
>>>off.
>>>I simply elongated the hole less than .5 mm and the bolt slides right
>>>through. I don't believe once the washers and bolt are in place and
>>>secure
>>>that this will cause any problem.
>>>
>>>Second, you must insert several washers between the center bearing and
>>>the
>>>elevator horns. The plans stress that you must "fill the gap completely
>>>or
>>>the rod end bearings can bind." When I insert washers to take up the
>>>space,
>>>on the right side they cause too much pressure and cause the bind. If I
>>>remove one there is a slight gap and after tightening, it binds as well.
>>>I
>>>need a washer half the thickness of AN960-416L. Seems odd that such a
>>>small
>>>width would cause the binding, but it does. I know this because if I
>>>loosen
>>>the bolt through the center bearing, the elevator is smooth as silk. If
>>>I
>>>apply side pressure to the elevator, the binding can be felt.
>>>
>>>With all hardware installed, everything lines up dead nuts. I just need
>>>to
>>>fill that gap without adding lateral pressure. The same gap on the left
>>>side of the bearing accepts two washers with no gap and no excess
>>>pressure
>>>and no binding.
>>>
>>>So where can I find a washer .016" thick? Or is it .008"? AN960-416LL?
>>>Could I use a stainless one from Ace Hardware if I can find one that will
>>>fit? Or should I just sand one of mine down?
>>>
>>>Dave Leikam
>>>40496
>>>
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 12:06 AM
>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Thanks for the ideas guys. I have not had a chance to really study the
>>>>misaligned horn hole problem. (that sounded off) I plan to look at the
>>>>problem in depth this week and make a decision on what the best and
>>>>safest action to take will be. I think I know the cause, too much
>>>>pressure on the drill caused the horn to flex up slightly. Let the bit
>>>>do the work guys and gals!
>>>>
>>>>I will have to study the affect on the bottom hole as well. I think I
>>>>can get things straightened out however because the misalignment is very
>>>>small.
>>>>
>>>>The hole is a hair lower than it should be. I think less than 1 mm. If
>>>>I were to elongate the hole up to meet the bearing hole, the only way
>>>>for the horn to shift would be a hair up. Being that the horn is
>>>>clamped to the bearing between washers, and the assembly wants to stay
>>>>in the aligned position, I wonder if the operation would be safe.
>>>>I will probably call Vans for their opinion. I'll post my findings and
>>>>fix.
>>>>
>>>>Lincoln logs, legos and tinker toys were so easy!
>>>>
>>>>Dave
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez"
>>>><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>>Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:36 AM
>>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>>>>
>>>>>Dave and Jesse,
>>>>>
>>>>>Another option not mentioned and this is what i did was to get
>>>>>everything alinged, trailing edges and counterweight arms to the ends
>>>>>of the HS, use the hole which has the most meat around it as the keeper
>>>>>and then fabricate a plate for the other horn which can be riveted with
>>>>>six 4-4 rivets. The steel plate should be of equal thickness and same
>>>>>type of steel as the original horn and be long enough to overlap
>>>>>atleast 2 1/2 of the lightening holes in the elev horn. This plate can
>>>>>also have lightening holes.
>>>>>
>>>>>So the idea is to only slightly enlarge the bad hole. Lock everything
>>>>>into alignment, put your plate in with the hole already drilled in it,
>>>>>index everything and lock it down, then drill your rivet holes for
>>>>>fastening the plate to the horn. Everything should be indexed and
>>>>>locked DOWN. The gap between both horn needs to be indexed again with a
>>>>>block of some type of material, perfectly perpendicular hole in all
>>>>>dimensions. The horn should not flex when you clamp this block in
>>>>>place.
>>>>>
>>>>>This will yeild you a perfectly trimmed out trailing edge on both sides
>>>>>and the counterbalance arms to the HS.
>>>>>
>>>>>>From a safety standpoint, if for some damm reason all six rivets
>>>>>>seperated,
>>>>>then the slightly enlarged hole in the original elevator is still there
>>>>>and will keep th plane flying. DO disaster!!!!
>>>>>
>>>>>JOhn G.
>>>>>
>>>>>409 thinking about those diving mask games.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>>>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>>>Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 08:55:00 -0500
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Dave,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>My first question is, if you get the top hole fixed, what does that do
>>>>>>to
>>>>>>your bottom hole? One option is to get another horn and do it again.
>>>>>>The
>>>>>>next option is to make the hole bigger, have a plate welded in there
>>>>>>to make
>>>>>>the new hole. Another option is to have a washer welded in there
>>>>>>after
>>>>>>making the hole a little bigger to fit. Another option is to have
>>>>>>someone
>>>>>>weld the hole closed, then redrill the hole (it has to be an expert
>>>>>>welder).
>>>>>>Another option is the just talk to Van's and see what they say.
>>>>>>Another
>>>>>>option is to make a new elevator, but I don't recommend this or the
>>>>>>first
>>>>>>one.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>There will be a lot of suggestions from others, but these are the ones
>>>>>>I
>>>>>>could come up with quickly (I have seen this problem before more than
>>>>>>once,
>>>>>>and we had the hole welded closed and redrilled.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Do not archive.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Jesse Saint
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>www.saintaviation.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Cell: 352-427-0285
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _____
>>>>>>
>>>>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
>>>>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 11:50 PM
>>>>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I unbolted the center bearing at the top of the elevator horns and
>>>>>>sure
>>>>>>enough, the hole on the top of the right horn is a touch lower than it
>>>>>>needs
>>>>>>to be. Just enough to cause the horn to flex up less than 1 mm with
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>bolt in. This is causing the bind. Now what to do?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I followed the plans and put the drill bushing in my DeWalt 12 volt
>>>>>>and put
>>>>>>a file to it until it fit into the bearing. No problem with that.
>>>>>>The
>>>>>>bottom holes of the horn came out fine as well using the wood block.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Dave Leikam
>>>>>>
>>>>>>40496
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>
>>>>>>From: Jesse <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com> Saint
>>>>>>
>>>>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 6:41 AM
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull
>>>>>>that
>>>>>>bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected
>>>>>>to the
>>>>>>pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a
>>>>>>time,
>>>>>>where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at
>>>>>>a time
>>>>>>to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not
>>>>>>that
>>>>>>the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few
>>>>>>washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when
>>>>>>tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to
>>>>>>get that
>>>>>>hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting
>>>>>>in
>>>>>>the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended
>>>>>>up
>>>>>>having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling.
>>>>>>Also,
>>>>>>on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead
>>>>>>of a
>>>>>>block of wood as Van's suggests, and make sure that when you measure
>>>>>>to
>>>>>>drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other,
>>>>>>because
>>>>>>that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody
>>>>>>having the
>>>>>>horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over
>>>>>>inch
>>>>>>out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans
>>>>>>say that
>>>>>>they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it
>>>>>>is
>>>>>>pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Jesse Saint
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>www.saintaviation.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Cell: 352-427-0285
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _____
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
>>>>>>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
>>>>>>To: matronics
>>>>>>Subject: RV10-List: Elevator movement
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the
>>>>>>freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag
>>>>>>freely.
>>>>>>They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a
>>>>>>bit
>>>>>>tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center
>>>>>>bolt
>>>>>>under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth
>>>>>>movement
>>>>>>just the same. Anyone have this experience?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Dave Leikam
>>>>>>
>>>>>>40496
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>>http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
>>>>>>/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 47
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Tim
Put Me On your List. Also may be able to help with the screws at no cost.
Just for your great help. Let me know the size.
Ron Owen
flywithme@hughes.net
9700 Payne Rd.
Sebring Fl. 33870
863-471-9817
863-381-0759
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wow!
>
> No problem Jeff. I've had a bunch of offers of help, but what gets
> me is that if I shipped them somewhere for reshipping, that just
> increases the cost...so I'm trying to keep it low. You're probably
> right on the pricing...the old quote for 40 was $17.75, so it's
> likely going to be lower now by a ways. I'm up to 90 people, for
> 180 units. At $15 that's $2700 to spend on the machining. ;)
> It's far more quantity than I figured it would be, but it's
> do-able. As long as people are helping with the international
> stuff, that makes it easier. The reason I went USPS is because
> you get the box for free and it's a flat-rate charge that should
> be identical. I doubt that the manufacturer will want to deal
> with shipping, but for this one-shot thing, I don't mind.
> We'll just see how good it all gets. I know some people are
> wanting these a.s.a.p, so I'm going to hold to a Thursday
> 8am CST deadline and then just have some made up. At that point
> at least I'll know how much hardware to order. Glad I didn't
> do that this a.m. or I'd be WAAAY short.
>
> You know, this would make a heck of a lot more sense if I was
> still building and needed a pair. Call me a sucker, but
> you guys have just grown on me over the past 3 years. ;)
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>>
>> Hi Tim,
>>
>> My time spent estimating tells me that these are costing $11.00 each
>> after the initial set up costs... so that an order of 150 pieces should
>> wind up around 14.50 each... or $29.00 per pair... but I'd imagine that
>> you're really going to be looking at ordering between 250 and 300 pieces
>> by the time the dust settles on this. For example,I think I'll be
>> ordering two pair, as Nick Gautier is building around the corner from me
>> and I just need to confirm that he wants them as well.
>>
>> I am concerned that you'll be spending a big chunk of your time shipping
>> these out as the list grows and don't think any of us want you to have to
>> go through all that. Perhaps the manufacturer is set up for UPS shipping
>> and for a nominal fee they can handle that for you. I'd be happy to
>> forgo some of the savings from this amazing group buy to save you that
>> time and effort.... or you could drop ship a batch to me and a few others
>> around the country and we could split up the work of getting them all
>> out.
>>
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Jan 29, 2007, at 7:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> There you have it, another great guy steps up to the
>>> plate to help those over the ocean.
>>>
>>> What a group we have.
>>>
>>> 77 now. Dan, did you want them for you or are you just
>>> doing the straight shaft ones on the cheap?
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>>>> <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>>>> Tim for everyone in Europe and further East I will help with the
>>>> packaging and sending. Just send me the list of people and I will make
>>>> sure it gets out to them. I think there was one from Germany, and I do
>>>> not know how many others, but I can help.
>>>> Dan
>>>> N289DT -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>>> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 9:18 AM
>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Wow!
>>>> I would have never guessed...my inbox is filling up as fast as I
>>>> can reply, and we're up to 72 now. I think I'm going to be a
>>>> busy guy.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: IO 540 Performance |
I didn't see anything on weight, dry, with or without accessories.
Is there much variation between the variants of the parallel valve engine?
Pascal wrote:
> I believe Tim Olsen's site has everything you ever need for information.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Dave & Brenda Emond <mailto:d_emond@mweb.co.za>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:43 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: IO 540 Performance
>
> I am looking for a copy of the performance specs for a Lycoming IO
> 540 - D4A5, or similar 260hp Lyco.
>
> Power curves etc!
>
> Dave Emond
> 40159
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
Message 49
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|
Tim,
Would you please also put us on your list?
Thank you,
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ronald L Owen
Sent: Wednesday, 31 January 2007 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wow!
Tim
Put Me On your List. Also may be able to help with the screws at no cost.
Just for your great help. Let me know the size.
Ron Owen
flywithme@hughes.net
9700 Payne Rd.
Sebring Fl. 33870
863-471-9817
863-381-0759
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wow!
>
> No problem Jeff. I've had a bunch of offers of help, but what gets
> me is that if I shipped them somewhere for reshipping, that just
> increases the cost...so I'm trying to keep it low. You're probably
> right on the pricing...the old quote for 40 was $17.75, so it's
> likely going to be lower now by a ways. I'm up to 90 people, for
> 180 units. At $15 that's $2700 to spend on the machining. ;)
> It's far more quantity than I figured it would be, but it's
> do-able. As long as people are helping with the international
> stuff, that makes it easier. The reason I went USPS is because
> you get the box for free and it's a flat-rate charge that should
> be identical. I doubt that the manufacturer will want to deal
> with shipping, but for this one-shot thing, I don't mind.
> We'll just see how good it all gets. I know some people are
> wanting these a.s.a.p, so I'm going to hold to a Thursday
> 8am CST deadline and then just have some made up. At that point
> at least I'll know how much hardware to order. Glad I didn't
> do that this a.m. or I'd be WAAAY short.
>
> You know, this would make a heck of a lot more sense if I was
> still building and needed a pair. Call me a sucker, but
> you guys have just grown on me over the past 3 years. ;)
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>>
>> Hi Tim,
>>
>> My time spent estimating tells me that these are costing $11.00 each
>> after the initial set up costs... so that an order of 150 pieces should
>> wind up around 14.50 each... or $29.00 per pair... but I'd imagine that
>> you're really going to be looking at ordering between 250 and 300 pieces
>> by the time the dust settles on this. For example,I think I'll be
>> ordering two pair, as Nick Gautier is building around the corner from me
>> and I just need to confirm that he wants them as well.
>>
>> I am concerned that you'll be spending a big chunk of your time shipping
>> these out as the list grows and don't think any of us want you to have to
>> go through all that. Perhaps the manufacturer is set up for UPS shipping
>> and for a nominal fee they can handle that for you. I'd be happy to
>> forgo some of the savings from this amazing group buy to save you that
>> time and effort.... or you could drop ship a batch to me and a few others
>> around the country and we could split up the work of getting them all
>> out.
>>
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Jan 29, 2007, at 7:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> There you have it, another great guy steps up to the
>>> plate to help those over the ocean.
>>>
>>> What a group we have.
>>>
>>> 77 now. Dan, did you want them for you or are you just
>>> doing the straight shaft ones on the cheap?
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>>>> <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>>>> Tim for everyone in Europe and further East I will help with the
>>>> packaging and sending. Just send me the list of people and I will make
>>>> sure it gets out to them. I think there was one from Germany, and I do
>>>> not know how many others, but I can help.
>>>> Dan
>>>> N289DT -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>>> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 9:18 AM
>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Wow!
>>>> I would have never guessed...my inbox is filling up as fast as I
>>>> can reply, and we're up to 72 now. I think I'm going to be a
>>>> busy guy.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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