RV10-List Digest Archive

Fri 02/23/07


Total Messages Posted: 27



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:54 AM - Aileron and flap actuation (Eric_Kallio)
     2. 07:33 AM - Re: Aileron and flap actuation (Rob Kermanj)
     3. 08:11 AM - Re: Part F-6122-1< brake tube bracket on the inside firewall is missing.> (John Hilger)
     4. 08:34 AM - Re: Part F-6122-1< brake tube bracket on the inside firewall is missing.> (Bruce Snyder)
     5. 09:28 AM - Re: Whelen A-500A Strobe Installation (KiloPapa)
     6. 10:19 AM - Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning (Jae Chang)
     7. 10:35 AM - Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning (orchidman)
     8. 10:43 AM - Re: Whelen A-500A Strobe Installation (Dave Leikam)
     9. 10:55 AM - Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning (Kevin Belue)
    10. 10:59 AM - Wiring (Dave Leikam)
    11. 12:35 PM - Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning (Jae Chang)
    12. 02:12 PM - Re: Part F-6122-1< brake tube bracket on the inside firewall is missing.> (John Gonzalez)
    13. 02:51 PM - Re: Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning (Jae Chang)
    14. 02:53 PM - Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning (Niko)
    15. 03:32 PM - Re: Aileron and flap actuation (Tim Olson)
    16. 03:53 PM - Re: Aileron and flap actuation (Jesse Saint)
    17. 03:53 PM - Re: Wiring (Jesse Saint)
    18. 04:28 PM - Re: Wiring (John W. Cox)
    19. 04:47 PM - Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning (Jae Chang)
    20. 07:02 PM - Weather? for- i39, Richmond Madison Flyin Feb. 24th. is ON (Eric Parlow)
    21. 07:13 PM - Re: Wiring (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
    22. 07:33 PM - Re: Wiring (JOHN STARN)
    23. 07:37 PM - Re: Wiring (John Testement)
    24. 08:47 PM - Re: Wiring (Dave Leikam)
    25. 10:16 PM - Re: Wiring (ddddsp1@juno.com)
    26. 10:46 PM - Re: Wiring (JOHN STARN)
    27. 11:03 PM - Glass Primary Flight Displays for RV-10 (Bill DeRouchey)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:54:23 AM PST US
    Subject: Aileron and flap actuation
    From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
    When attaching the ailerons and flaps I am finding that both peices, on both wings, rub the top skin. The flaps contact just prior to the neutral position and the ailerons at about 20 degrees trailing edge down. I don't have pics handy, but I can get some if needed. Is this common, or do I get to re-work my wings? Don't want to get to far into the aileron actuation section unitl I clarify this. Thanks. Eric Kallio 40518 starting the fuel tanks that were put off til last...the joys of proseal. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'844#96844


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:33:57 AM PST US
    From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Aileron and flap actuation
    My QB wings had the same problem with the flaps slightly rubbing at their up position. I have seen another 10 with the flaps rubbing also. My solution was to put vans control surface tape on the flaps. My ailerons are OK so I can't really comment about them. do not archive On Feb 23, 2007, at 9:53 AM, Eric_Kallio wrote: > > When attaching the ailerons and flaps I am finding that both > peices, on both wings, rub the top skin. The flaps contact just > prior to the neutral position and the ailerons at about 20 degrees > trailing edge down. I don't have pics handy, but I can get some if > needed. Is this common, or do I get to re-work my wings? Don't want > to get to far into the aileron actuation section unitl I clarify > this. Thanks. > > Eric Kallio > 40518 starting the fuel tanks that were put off til last...the joys > of proseal. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'844#96844 > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:11:24 AM PST US
    From: "John Hilger" <ninepapa@bendbroadband.com>
    Subject: Re: Part F-6122-1< brake tube bracket on the inside firewall
    is missing.> John I don't about the QB kits, but in my slow build fuselage kit F-6122-1 was in sub kit #7 with the aluminum tube. John H. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 10:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: Part F-6122-1< brake tube bracket on the inside firewall is missing.> > > Hello all, > > I have a QB fuse and this part is not on the fuse nor is it in the box or > the bags. I can't seem to find it on the packing list or hardware list > either. > > Any clues??????????????????????? > > Thanks, > > John G. > > DO NOt archive > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:34:28 AM PST US
    From: "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Part F-6122-1< brake tube bracket on the inside firewall
    is missing.> John, Mine was riveted to the firewall, already on the QB fuselage. Bruce Fuselage 40353 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 1:19 AM Subject: RV10-List: Part F-6122-1< brake tube bracket on the inside firewall is missing.> Hello all, I have a QB fuse and this part is not on the fuse nor is it in the box or the bags. I can't seem to find it on the packing list or hardware list either. Any clues??????????????????????? Thanks, John G. DO NOt archive


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:28:56 AM PST US
    From: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
    Subject: Re: Whelen A-500A Strobe Installation
    What have you found to be a good source for strobe lights. The Whelen A500 for the rudder alone is $150 at ACS. Thanks, Kevin 40494 tail/empennage


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:19:01 AM PST US
    From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
    Subject: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning
    Has anyone else dealt with this issue? I am on page 16-2 on the Top Wing Skins section. My left wing lined up perfectly. On the right wing, to my surprise, I have an alignment problem between the top wing skin and the rear spar. Here are some photos to illustrate... Every other hole lines up between the top wing skin and the wing skeleton, except for the inboard rear spar holes. The holes are out of alignment and gradually come closer into alignment until they are lined up perfectly again between the 4th and 5th rib, counting the root rib as rib #1. http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4481.html Broader picture of the general area... http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4482.html The inboard most hole is the furthest out of line by about 1/16". The rear spar hole needs to come further aft by 1/16". I then did a lot of measuring to compare my left wing (perfect) with right wing (problem). The problem appears to be with the rear spar. The upper flange seems to taper from 22/32" wide down to 20/32" wide at the inboard edge, which would account for the 1/16" alignment error in the top skin. Photo of rear spar top flange on left (correct side): http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4483.html Photo of rear spar top flange on right (error side): http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4484.html I spoke with Van's this morning. They made 2 recommendations: 1. Does the bottom skin line up? Answer: surprisingly enough, YES. It's not perfect, but will be manageable. 2. Drill and rivet the misaligned holes with 1/8" rivets. The problem with this solution is that the new hole will have an edge-distance problem. I should have 1/4" clearance to the edge, but I will only have 3/16" clearance to the aft edge on the rear spar. As I work outboard, the edge distance issue should get better and better, but still not within spec. 1/16" would not be a problem anywhere else on the wing, as far as I can tell. I could have "massaged" things possibly by that amount. However, this problem is at the wing root and wing walk area, which is heavily reinforced. There is no "massaging" possible here. Finally, I could get a new rear-spar, however, that means removing all of the doublers and tons of AN470AD4-8 and 4-6 rivets!!! Thus, the warning to other builders, BEFORE riveting the rear spar, measure the top flange on your rear spar, to make sure it stays even in width. Even better, try fitting the top skin on before riveting the rear spar. Can anyone provide any other recommendations? Another thought is, can I somehow put in a shim between the rear spar and the 2 inboard ribs? The shim would have to only be along the top holes, since the bottom holes are lined up. Thanks, Jae


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:35:46 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning
    From: "orchidman" <gary@wingscc.com>
    Jae, I may be coming up on this point in about a month. What was the serial # of your wing spars and how long have you had them? My builder # is 40674 but my spar # is 10578 which I think means that I have the 578th wing kit shipped. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'896#96896


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:43:25 AM PST US
    From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Whelen A-500A Strobe Installation
    I got mine from Van's. Combination strobe and white tail light. Bought the rest of my lights and strobes from http://www.creativair.com/. They recommend you buy the tail strobe/light from Van's. Dave Leikam 40496 Waiting for QB fuse and wings. ----- Original Message ----- From: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 11:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Whelen A-500A Strobe Installation > > What have you found to be a good source for strobe lights. The Whelen > A500 for the rudder alone is $150 at ACS. > > Thanks, > > Kevin > 40494 > tail/empennage > > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 10:55:22 AM PST US
    From: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue@charter.net>
    Subject: Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning
    Jae, I had the same problem (about 2 years ago). My rear spar flange was off more than yours, though. Van's sent me another spar and I drilled out all the rivets and replaced it. It looks like you can use yours - I would drill the holes to match and use the "oops" rivets if necessary. It's a good idea for everyone to check the dimensions on the rear spar before rivetting because it is a big job to remove it. Kevin Belue RV-6A flying RV-10 finish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 12:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning > > Has anyone else dealt with this issue? I am on page 16-2 on the Top Wing > Skins > section. My left wing lined up perfectly. On the right wing, to my > surprise, I > have an alignment problem between the top wing skin and the rear spar. > > Here are some photos to illustrate... > > Every other hole lines up between the top wing skin and the wing skeleton, > except for the inboard rear spar holes. The holes are out of alignment and > gradually come closer into alignment until they are lined up perfectly > again > between the 4th and 5th rib, counting the root rib as rib #1. > http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4481.html > > Broader picture of the general area... > http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4482.html > > The inboard most hole is the furthest out of line by about 1/16". The rear > spar > hole needs to come further aft by 1/16". > > I then did a lot of measuring to compare my left wing (perfect) with right > wing > (problem). The problem appears to be with the rear spar. The upper flange > seems > to taper from 22/32" wide down to 20/32" wide at the inboard edge, which > would > account for the 1/16" alignment error in the top skin. > > Photo of rear spar top flange on left (correct side): > http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4483.html > > Photo of rear spar top flange on right (error side): > http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4484.html > > I spoke with Van's this morning. They made 2 recommendations: > > 1. Does the bottom skin line up? Answer: surprisingly enough, YES. It's > not > perfect, but will be manageable. > > 2. Drill and rivet the misaligned holes with 1/8" rivets. > > The problem with this solution is that the new hole will have an > edge-distance > problem. I should have 1/4" clearance to the edge, but I will only have > 3/16" > clearance to the aft edge on the rear spar. As I work outboard, the edge > distance issue should get better and better, but still not within spec. > > 1/16" would not be a problem anywhere else on the wing, as far as I can > tell. I > could have "massaged" things possibly by that amount. However, this > problem is > at the wing root and wing walk area, which is heavily reinforced. There is > no > "massaging" possible here. > > Finally, I could get a new rear-spar, however, that means removing all of > the > doublers and tons of AN470AD4-8 and 4-6 rivets!!! > > Thus, the warning to other builders, BEFORE riveting the rear spar, > measure the > top flange on your rear spar, to make sure it stays even in width. Even > better, > try fitting the top skin on before riveting the rear spar. > > Can anyone provide any other recommendations? > > Another thought is, can I somehow put in a shim between the rear spar and > the 2 > inboard ribs? The shim would have to only be along the top holes, since > the > bottom holes are lined up. > > Thanks, > > Jae > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:59:15 AM PST US
    From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
    Subject: Wiring
    Has anyone purchased or do you recommend purchasing the wiring kit from Stein? Dave Leikam 40496


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:35:26 PM PST US
    From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
    Subject: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning
    Kevin... Well, I just hope we can help this from happening to anyone else. I have already ordered a replacement left rear spar. Even the replacement was not the SAME as my original. With these discrepancies, I think there are plenty of quality control issues on the rear spars At this point, I am leaning towards upsizing to 1/8" hole and rivets. However, what can I do to deal with the edge-distance clearance issue? Does anyone have any recommendations? My thoughts are: 1. Just leave it alone. It's just 1/16" under the edge distance clearance for a 1/8" rivet. 2. Add some extra 3/32" holes and rivets in rear spar upper flange. The current spacing between holes is 26/32". If I put another hole in between existing holes, is that safe to do? Thanks again for the suggestions, Jae -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 10:55 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning Jae, I had the same problem (about 2 years ago). My rear spar flange was off more than yours, though. Van's sent me another spar and I drilled out all the rivets and replaced it. It looks like you can use yours - I would drill the holes to match and use the "oops" rivets if necessary. It's a good idea for everyone to check the dimensions on the rear spar before rivetting because it is a big job to remove it. Kevin Belue RV-6A flying RV-10 finish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 12:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning > > Has anyone else dealt with this issue? I am on page 16-2 on the Top Wing > Skins > section. My left wing lined up perfectly. On the right wing, to my > surprise, I > have an alignment problem between the top wing skin and the rear spar. > > Here are some photos to illustrate... > > Every other hole lines up between the top wing skin and the wing skeleton, > except for the inboard rear spar holes. The holes are out of alignment and > gradually come closer into alignment until they are lined up perfectly > again > between the 4th and 5th rib, counting the root rib as rib #1. > http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4481.html > > Broader picture of the general area... > http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4482.html > > The inboard most hole is the furthest out of line by about 1/16". The rear > spar > hole needs to come further aft by 1/16". > > I then did a lot of measuring to compare my left wing (perfect) with right > wing > (problem). The problem appears to be with the rear spar. The upper flange > seems > to taper from 22/32" wide down to 20/32" wide at the inboard edge, which > would > account for the 1/16" alignment error in the top skin. > > Photo of rear spar top flange on left (correct side): > http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4483.html > > Photo of rear spar top flange on right (error side): > http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4484.html > > I spoke with Van's this morning. They made 2 recommendations: > > 1. Does the bottom skin line up? Answer: surprisingly enough, YES. It's > not > perfect, but will be manageable. > > 2. Drill and rivet the misaligned holes with 1/8" rivets. > > The problem with this solution is that the new hole will have an > edge-distance > problem. I should have 1/4" clearance to the edge, but I will only have > 3/16" > clearance to the aft edge on the rear spar. As I work outboard, the edge > distance issue should get better and better, but still not within spec. > > 1/16" would not be a problem anywhere else on the wing, as far as I can > tell. I > could have "massaged" things possibly by that amount. However, this > problem is > at the wing root and wing walk area, which is heavily reinforced. There is > no > "massaging" possible here. > > Finally, I could get a new rear-spar, however, that means removing all of > the > doublers and tons of AN470AD4-8 and 4-6 rivets!!! > > Thus, the warning to other builders, BEFORE riveting the rear spar, > measure the > top flange on your rear spar, to make sure it stays even in width. Even > better, > try fitting the top skin on before riveting the rear spar. > > Can anyone provide any other recommendations? > > Another thought is, can I somehow put in a shim between the rear spar and > the 2 > inboard ribs? The shim would have to only be along the top holes, since > the > bottom holes are lined up. > > Thanks, > > Jae > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 02:12:04 PM PST US
    From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
    Subject: Part F-6122-1< brake tube bracket on the inside firewall
    is missing.> John and Bruce, Thanks for the reply. As far as the QB goes, it was supposed to be rivetted to the firewall according to Van's. The QB workers left it off by accident. I would fabricate my own, but the holes on the Firewall are already dimpled so getting a good match with the holes on the part would be difficult. JOhn G. 409 Do Not Archive >From: "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888@sbcglobal.net> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Part F-6122-1< brake tube bracket on the inside >firewall is missing.> >Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2007 11:33:52 -0500 > > >John, > >Mine was riveted to the firewall, already on the QB fuselage. > >Bruce >Fuselage >40353 > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez >Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 1:19 AM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Part F-6122-1< brake tube bracket on the inside >firewall >is missing.> > > >Hello all, > >I have a QB fuse and this part is not on the fuse nor is it in the box or >the bags. I can't seem to find it on the packing list or hardware list >either. > >Any clues??????????????????????? > >Thanks, > >John G. > >DO NOt archive > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:51:13 PM PST US
    From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
    Subject: Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning
    Hi Gary, The spar # is 10495. I received it in June 2006. My builder # is 40533. I would make sure to measure the upper flange width, to make sure it is consistent along the entire length of the rear spar. Jae Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 10:35 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning Jae, I may be coming up on this point in about a month. What was the serial # of your wing spars and how long have you had them? My builder # is 40674 but my spar # is 10578 which I think means that I have the 578th wing kit shipped. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N410GB reserved) do not archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'896#96896


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:53:26 PM PST US
    From: Niko <owl40188@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning
    Hi Jay,=0A =0AI think you will be fine going with 1/8 inch rivets.=0A =0AYo u would have reduced your allowable bearing stress on the spar by about 30% due to the shorter edge distance but you will have gained about that much from the higher bearing area. By the way, 1.5D is not considered short edg e distance. Many pieces of structure are designed to that edge distance. I am assuming you are measuring from the center of the hole to the edge of the part. Additionally depending on the thickness of the parts the spar mi ght not be the weakest link.=0A =0A =0AThe net area on the spar will be sli ghtly reduced so the spar will be weaker by the difference in the area of t he upper flanges which is pretty small. Also the upper spar is usually in compression which minimizes the effect.=0A =0AI don't think its a problem b ut you might want to check with Vans anyway. Do make sure though that you get good holes and no "figure 8s"=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>=0ATo: rv10-li st@matronics.com=0ASent: Friday, February 23, 2007 3:34:14 PM=0ASubject: RE : RV10-List: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning=0A=0A=0A--> RV10-List mes sage posted by: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>=0A=0AKevin... Wel l, I just hope we can help this from happening to anyone else. I=0Ahave alr eady ordered a replacement left rear spar. Even the replacement was not=0At he SAME as my original. With these discrepancies, I think there are plenty of=0Aquality control issues on the rear spars=0A=0AAt this point, I am lean ing towards upsizing to 1/8" hole and rivets. However,=0Awhat can I do to d eal with the edge-distance clearance issue? Does anyone have=0Aany recommen dations?=0A=0AMy thoughts are:=0A=0A1. Just leave it alone. It's just 1/16" under the edge distance clearance for a=0A1/8" rivet.=0A=0A2. Add some ext ra 3/32" holes and rivets in rear spar upper flange. The current=0Aspacing between holes is 26/32". If I put another hole in between existing=0Aholes, is that safe to do?=0A=0AThanks again for the suggestions,=0AJae=0A=0A---- -Original Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com=0A[mail to:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue=0ASent: F riday, February 23, 2007 10:55 AM=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning=0A=0A--> RV10-List mess age posted by: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue@charter.net>=0A=0AJae,=0A=0AI had the same problem (about 2 years ago). My rear spar flange was off more=0Athan yours, though. Van's sent me another spar and I drilled out all the rivets =0Aand replaced it. It looks like you can use yours - I would drill the hol es to=0Amatch and use the "oops" rivets if necessary. It's a good idea for everyone to=0Acheck the dimensions on the rear spar before rivetting becaus e it is a big job=0Ato remove it.=0A=0AKevin Belue=0ARV-6A flying=0ARV-10 f inish=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message -----=0AFrom: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronic s_rv10@jline.com>=0ATo: <rv10-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Friday, February 23, 2007 12:18 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warnin @jline.com>=0A>=0A> Has anyone else dealt with this issue? I am on page 16- 2 on the Top Wing =0A> Skins=0A> section. My left wing lined up perfectly. On the right wing, to my =0A> surprise, I=0A> have an alignment problem bet ween the top wing skin and the rear spar.=0A>=0A> Here are some photos to i llustrate...=0A>=0A> Every other hole lines up between the top wing skin an d the wing skeleton,=0A> except for the inboard rear spar holes. The holes are out of alignment and=0A> gradually come closer into alignment until the y are lined up perfectly =0A> again=0A> between the 4th and 5th rib, counti ng the root rib as rib #1.=0A> http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wing kit/photos/IMG_4481.html=0A>=0A> Broader picture of the general area...=0A> http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4482.html=0A> =0A> The inboard most hole is the furthest out of line by about 1/16". The rear =0A> spar=0A> hole needs to come further aft by 1/16".=0A>=0A> I then did a lot of measuring to compare my left wing (perfect) with right =0A> wi ng=0A> (problem). The problem appears to be with the rear spar. The upper f lange =0A> seems=0A> to taper from 22/32" wide down to 20/32" wide at the i nboard edge, which =0A> would=0A> account for the 1/16" alignment error in the top skin.=0A>=0A> Photo of rear spar top flange on left (correct side): =0A> http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4483.html =0A>=0A> Photo of rear spar top flange on right (error side):=0A> http://ww w.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4484.html=0A>=0A> I spoke with Van's this morning. They made 2 recommendations:=0A>=0A> 1. Does the bottom skin line up? Answer: surprisingly enough, YES. It's =0A> not=0A> p erfect, but will be manageable.=0A>=0A> 2. Drill and rivet the misaligned holes with 1/8" rivets.=0A>=0A> The problem with this solution is that the new hole will have an =0A> edge-distance=0A> problem. I should have 1/4" cl earance to the edge, but I will only have =0A> 3/16"=0A> clearance to the a ft edge on the rear spar. As I work outboard, the edge=0A> distance issue s hould get better and better, but still not within spec.=0A>=0A> 1/16" would not be a problem anywhere else on the wing, as far as I can =0A> tell. I =0A> could have "massaged" things possibly by that amount. However, this =0A> problem is=0A> at the wing root and wing walk area, which is heavily r einforced. There is =0A> no=0A> "massaging" possible here.=0A>=0A> Finally, I could get a new rear-spar, however, that means removing all of =0A> the =0A> doublers and tons of AN470AD4-8 and 4-6 rivets!!!=0A>=0A> Thus, the wa rning to other builders, BEFORE riveting the rear spar, =0A> measure the=0A > top flange on your rear spar, to make sure it stays even in width. Even =0A> better,=0A> try fitting the top skin on before riveting the rear spar. =0A>=0A> Can anyone provide any other recommendations?=0A>=0A> Another thou ght is, can I somehow put in a shim between the rear spar and =0A> the 2=0A > inboard ribs? The shim would have to only be along the top holes, since =0A> the=0A> bottom holes are lined up.=0A>=0A> Thanks,=0A>=0A> Jae=0A>=0A> ============


    Message 15


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    Time: 03:32:26 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: Aileron and flap actuation
    Mine rub of course too. I think most will. I put the tape though on the underside of the wing skin instead of the flap, so you don't have the tape visible. No scratches that I'm aware of yet. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Rob Kermanj wrote: > > My QB wings had the same problem with the flaps slightly rubbing at > their up position. I have seen another 10 with the flaps rubbing also. > > My solution was to put vans control surface tape on the flaps. My > ailerons are OK so I can't really comment about them. > do not archive > On Feb 23, 2007, at 9:53 AM, Eric_Kallio wrote: > >> >> When attaching the ailerons and flaps I am finding that both peices, >> on both wings, rub the top skin. The flaps contact just prior to the >> neutral position and the ailerons at about 20 degrees trailing edge >> down. I don't have pics handy, but I can get some if needed. Is this >> common, or do I get to re-work my wings? Don't want to get to far into >> the aileron actuation section unitl I clarify this. Thanks. >> >> Eric Kallio >> 40518 starting the fuel tanks that were put off til last...the joys of >> proseal. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'844#96844 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > >


    Message 16


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    Time: 03:53:16 PM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    Subject: Aileron and flap actuation
    As the other post stated, using UHVM tape or something like that on the Flap will keep it from scratching the paint. It is good to have a tight fit there. On the aileron, if you have not connected the two ailerons together yet, then you probably won't have to worry, because they don't travel as much when they are hooked up. If they are already hooked up, then you may have a problem. Hope this helps. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 9:53 AM Subject: RV10-List: Aileron and flap actuation When attaching the ailerons and flaps I am finding that both peices, on both wings, rub the top skin. The flaps contact just prior to the neutral position and the ailerons at about 20 degrees trailing edge down. I don't have pics handy, but I can get some if needed. Is this common, or do I get to re-work my wings? Don't want to get to far into the aileron actuation section unitl I clarify this. Thanks. Eric Kallio 40518 starting the fuel tanks that were put off til last...the joys of proseal. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'844#96844 -- 1:44 PM


    Message 17


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    Time: 03:53:20 PM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    Subject: Wiring
    I have looked at it, and have probably purchased the equivalent a couple of times, but not the specific kit. If you are planning on using the fuse blocks, need the tools, and stuff like that, then it would be a good way to go. I would look through it and decide if you need all of the components, then ask him to hold any out that you don't plan to use. After all, it is just a list of supplies, not an actual harness. You may need less of some wires and probably more of others when you get down to it, but it is a good place to start, IMHO. Do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 1:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Wiring Has anyone purchased or do you recommend purchasing the wiring kit from Stein? Dave Leikam 40496


    Message 18


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    Time: 04:28:58 PM PST US
    Subject: Wiring
    From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    I will recommend Stein. I have been told he is a great guy, reputable businessman and can use all the positive cashflow we can forward him as a result of being victimized by the D2A fiasco. Tim gives a hearty endorsement and that is enough for me. John Cox #40600 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 10:59 AM Subject: RV10-List: Wiring Has anyone purchased or do you recommend purchasing the wiring kit from Stein? Dave Leikam 40496


    Message 19


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    Time: 04:47:39 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning
    From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
    Niko... Vans is recommending using oops rivets, so i think that would definitely mean a weaker structure than using the original callout. Part of the reason, is because this is a tight access area, because of the built-up doublers in the way. Finally, Vans brought up another issue. The 1/16" missing from the upper flange had to have gone somewhere. Yep, it went into the web of the spar. There is now quite a gap created above the ribs. This is the gap in the right (problem side) root rib. That is almost 1/8" thick. 0.125". The top skin is .032". That means the shim I would have to use to fill that gap will be 3 to 4 times the thickness of the top skin. http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4485.html This is another inner rib, all the inner ribs have the same problem, up to the 5th rib, which is fine. http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4486.html As a comparison, this is what my left root rib looks like - what it should be. http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4487.html I am going to have to think about this over the weekend. Now, i am leaning towards replacement. Any opinions on what others would do? That hissing sound i hear is the sound of building momentum leaking away again! Jae > Hi Jay, > > I think you will be fine going with 1/8 inch rivets. > > You would have reduced your allowable bearing stress on the spar by about > 30% due to the shorter edge distance but you will have gained about that > much from the higher bearing area. By the way, 1.5D is not considered > short edge distance. Many pieces of structure are designed to that edge > distance. I am assuming you are measuring from the center of the hole to > the edge of the part. Additionally depending on the thickness of the > parts the spar might not be the weakest link. > > > The net area on the spar will be slightly reduced so the spar will be > weaker by the difference in the area of the upper flanges which is pretty > small. Also the upper spar is usually in compression which minimizes the > effect. > > I don't think its a problem but you might want to check with Vans anyway. > Do make sure though that you get good holes and no "figure 8s" > > Niko > 40188 > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 3:34:14 PM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning > > > > Kevin... Well, I just hope we can help this from happening to anyone else. > I > have already ordered a replacement left rear spar. Even the replacement > was not > the SAME as my original. With these discrepancies, I think there are > plenty of > quality control issues on the rear spars > > At this point, I am leaning towards upsizing to 1/8" hole and rivets. > However, > what can I do to deal with the edge-distance clearance issue? Does anyone > have > any recommendations? > > My thoughts are: > > 1. Just leave it alone. It's just 1/16" under the edge distance clearance > for a > 1/8" rivet. > > 2. Add some extra 3/32" holes and rivets in rear spar upper flange. The > current > spacing between holes is 26/32". If I put another hole in between existing > holes, is that safe to do? > > Thanks again for the suggestions, > Jae > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue > Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 10:55 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning > > > Jae, > > I had the same problem (about 2 years ago). My rear spar flange was off > more > than yours, though. Van's sent me another spar and I drilled out all the > rivets > and replaced it. It looks like you can use yours - I would drill the holes > to > match and use the "oops" rivets if necessary. It's a good idea for > everyone to > check the dimensions on the rear spar before rivetting because it is a big > job > to remove it. > > Kevin Belue > RV-6A flying > RV-10 finish > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 12:18 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Rear spar alignment flaw and Warning > > >> <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> >> >> Has anyone else dealt with this issue? I am on page 16-2 on the Top Wing >> Skins >> section. My left wing lined up perfectly. On the right wing, to my >> surprise, I >> have an alignment problem between the top wing skin and the rear spar. >> >> Here are some photos to illustrate... >> >> Every other hole lines up between the top wing skin and the wing >> skeleton, >> except for the inboard rear spar holes. The holes are out of alignment >> and >> gradually come closer into alignment until they are lined up perfectly >> again >> between the 4th and 5th rib, counting the root rib as rib #1. >> http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4481.html >> >> Broader picture of the general area... >> http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4482.html >> >> The inboard most hole is the furthest out of line by about 1/16". The >> rear >> spar >> hole needs to come further aft by 1/16". >> >> I then did a lot of measuring to compare my left wing (perfect) with >> right >> wing >> (problem). The problem appears to be with the rear spar. The upper >> flange >> seems >> to taper from 22/32" wide down to 20/32" wide at the inboard edge, which >> would >> account for the 1/16" alignment error in the top skin. >> >> Photo of rear spar top flange on left (correct side): >> http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4483.html >> >> Photo of rear spar top flange on right (error side): >> http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4484.html >> >> I spoke with Van's this morning. They made 2 recommendations: >> >> 1. Does the bottom skin line up? Answer: surprisingly enough, YES. It's >> not >> perfect, but will be manageable. >> >> 2. Drill and rivet the misaligned holes with 1/8" rivets. >> >> The problem with this solution is that the new hole will have an >> edge-distance >> problem. I should have 1/4" clearance to the edge, but I will only have >> 3/16" >> clearance to the aft edge on the rear spar. As I work outboard, the edge >> distance issue should get better and better, but still not within spec. >> >> 1/16" would not be a problem anywhere else on the wing, as far as I can >> tell. I >> could have "massaged" things possibly by that amount. However, this >> problem is >> at the wing root and wing walk area, which is heavily reinforced. There >> is >> no >> "massaging" possible here. >> >> Finally, I could get a new rear-spar, however, that means removing all >> of >> the >> doublers and tons of AN470AD4-8 and 4-6 rivets!!! >> >> Thus, the warning to other builders, BEFORE riveting the rear spar, >> measure the >> top flange on your rear spar, to make sure it stays even in width. Even >> better, >> try fitting the top skin on before riveting the rear spar. >> >> Can anyone provide any other recommendations? >> >> Another thought is, can I somehow put in a shim between the rear spar >> and >> the 2 >> inboard ribs? The shim would have to only be along the top holes, since >> the >> bottom holes are lined up. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Jae >> >>============


    Message 20


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    Time: 07:02:34 PM PST US
    From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Weather? for- i39, Richmond Madison Flyin Feb. 24th. is ON
    What's the weather look like there? Who's going? Hasn't been much e-traffic this on The Kickoff ............... Last 3 years were great! ERic-- RV-10 N104EP


    Message 21


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    Time: 07:13:56 PM PST US
    Subject: Wiring
    From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
    I have been working with Stein for over a year now, and I can say without a doubt he is an honest and forthright vendor, which in this day and age is a rarity. I have been one of the ones bit by the Direct2 fiasco, and Stein has been a pleasure to deal with during a difficult time. He has been in the middle of a bad situation, and has done everything in his power to make it right. For a small shop that is saying allot, Lancair customers got the shaft and Steins customers got taken care of. I would recommend Stein and his group to anyone needing his services. Dan Lloyd N289DT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 1:59 PM To: matronics Subject: RV10-List: Wiring Has anyone purchased or do you recommend purchasing the wiring kit from Stein? Dave Leikam 40496


    Message 22


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    Time: 07:33:19 PM PST US
    From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Wiring
    MessageHe's also a great source for 1963 VW pickup wiring etc. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive


    Message 23


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    Time: 07:37:22 PM PST US
    From: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
    Subject: Wiring
    I would definitely go with Stein for all of your electrical system parts and support. They really know their stuff and are the BEST at supporting customers. Stein is my first choice for all electrical stuff - I love em! John Testement HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA FWF, engine, wiring do not archive _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 1:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Wiring Has anyone purchased or do you recommend purchasing the wiring kit from Stein? Dave Leikam 40496 "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig ator?RV10-List 4:39 AM -- 4:39 AM


    Message 24


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    Time: 08:47:25 PM PST US
    From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Wiring
    I talked with Stein today and will probably order his wire kit for starters. He seems like a great guy and very knowledgeable. I think he may end up doing my panel, G900x. Oh honey, we need to talk about the airplane money again! Dave Leikam 40496 do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: John Testement To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 9:36 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wiring I would definitely go with Stein for all of your electrical system parts and support. They really know their stuff and are the BEST at supporting customers. Stein is my first choice for all electrical stuff - I love em! John Testement jwt@roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA FWF, engine, wiring do not archive ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 1:59 PM To: matronics Subject: RV10-List: Wiring Has anyone purchased or do you recommend purchasing the wiring kit from Stein? Dave Leikam 40496 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -- No virus found in this Edition. -- 2/23/2007 4:39 AM


    Message 25


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    Time: 10:16:20 PM PST US
    From: "ddddsp1@juno.com" <ddddsp1@juno.com>
    Subject: Wiring
    STEIN all the way!!!!! He is an awesome guy to work with. BTW S tein, my dimmer had a short in it and the ICOM does not have DIMMER cap ability anyway. I hooked them all direct to power and they worked great ! DEAN 40449 YUGO Avionics working great! ________________________________________________________________________ FREE Reminder Service - NEW from AmericanGreetings.com Click HERE and never forget a Birthday or Anniversary again! http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=197335&u=http://www.americangreetings.c om/products/online_calendar.pd?c=uol5752 <html><P>STEIN all the way!!!!!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp ; He is an awesome guy to work with.&nbsp;&nbsp; BTW Stein,&nbsp; my dim mer had a short in it and the ICOM does not have DIMMER capability anywa y.&nbsp; I hooked them all direct to power and they worked great!</P> <P>&nbsp;</P> <P>DEAN 40449</P> <P>YUGO Avionics working great!</P> <font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________ __________________________________________________<br> <a href="http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=197335&u=http://www.american greetings.com/products/online_calendar.pd?c=uol5752"><B>FREE</B> Remin der Service - <B>NEW</B> from AmericanGreetings.com<br> Click <B>HERE</B> and never forget a Birthday or Anniversary again!</a>< br></font> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier"> </b></font></pre></body></html>


    Message 26


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    Time: 10:46:00 PM PST US
    From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Wiring
    OH NO....Please, I feel a YUGO joke coming on.... KABONG Do Not Archive DEAN 40449 YUGO Avionics working great!


    Message 27


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    Time: 11:03:56 PM PST US
    From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Glass Primary Flight Displays for RV-10
    There have been several folks from the Matronics list that have been following the activities of building my own RV10, air data computer, primary flight display, Garmin interface computer, and a Crossbow gyro. All of these components have been integrated into my panel which is IFR legal with lots of innovation for cross country travel. I took full advantage of every skill I have ever learned in my life to make this happen but mostly engineer, programmer, and pilot. It has been wonderful to lay in bed thinking of ways to make the flight experience more enjoyable and safer then implement the idea the next day. Now its time for Sara and I to make a second run at creating a business. The first was packaged telecommunication software for DEC computers from 1978-1986. The prototype panel has been flying since August and I have been steadily making improvements and productizing the components since then. Just last week we finished the first production components for another Watsonville,CA RV-10 panel and its time to open the doors to our new business. Our web site went live this evening. We loaded it with features and (hopefully) good description of what the panel could do for you. Note that from initial concept the panel was approached as a system design instead of just another box. Without this approach the many good ideas that arose from who knows where could not have been implemented and its these ideas that make it a great panel. Check it out at: www.wtdaviationtechnology.com Call if you like. I am always interested in suggestions or discussing ideas. If you will consider doing business with us then I will do the best I can for you. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, flying bill@wtdaviationtechnology.com 831.345.3440




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