Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:28 AM - Re: AE Fuel Guardian Sensor Locations (Scott Schmidt)
2. 12:26 PM - Re: AE Fuel Guardian Sensor Locations (James K Hovis)
3. 03:28 PM - Cabin top (John Hasbrouck)
4. 03:39 PM - Tip for Trimming the doors (McGANN, Ron)
5. 03:41 PM - Re: Cabin top (McGANN, Ron)
6. 03:49 PM - Re: Cabin top (Deems Davis)
7. 04:09 PM - Re: Tip for Trimming the doors (John Hasbrouck)
8. 05:13 PM - Re: Cabin top (evmeg@snowcrest.net)
9. 09:34 PM - Thanks David McNeil (Deems Davis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: AE Fuel Guardian Sensor Locations |
I don't know if the baffle is necessary. Right now, even though it is calibrated
for 5 gallons, I know that when I have 10 gallons in the tank with light turbulence
the light will come on. When I reset it, it stays off until it gets
bumpy again (or if I have uncoordinated turns). I think the baffle system would
have to be pretty complex to keep the light from coming on.
If you have a fuel totalizer you should be fine. That fuel totalizer on the
Grand Rapids can be calibrated and it is always within one gallon.
Mark Lanier <markandangelasrv10@yahoo.com> wrote:
Scott, that's exactly what I'm looking for, thanks! Anyone else with a different
configuration?
Thanks for including the additional info about the sloshing as well. It got
me wondering if a long U-shaped channel bent out of some thin sheet stock and
riveted vertically surrounding the sensor (open at the top and bottom) would act
as a buffer for that sort of thing(?) My only question would be if aluminum
in close proximity to the sensor would throw it off since the light needs to
dissipate in the liquid. Would aluminum less than an inch away reflect the light
back before it has time to dissipate and give a false reading?? Maybe I'm
misunderstanding the sensor's function. Anyway, I've got an email to Aircraft
Extras asking about this... maybe they'll reply with some info.
Any thoughts on the baffle?
Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com> wrote:
Here is a picture of my location. I filled the tanks up with 5 gallons to
get this location. I am pretty happy with this. Because of the fuel sloshing
in the tanks though they start to come on if there is roughly 10 gallons in the
tank. The other day I landed and both lights were on when I landed. If I
reset it, they will stay off until you hit a little bit of turbulence. When I
filled the tanks, they only took 40 gallons which meant I had 20 gallons in
each tank.
I trust my fuel totalizer the most but the fuel guardians are there to remind
you if you forgot to switch tanks or if you have a leak all of a sudden like
Tim did when his fuel drain got stuck.
Hope that helps.
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/124475#50698594
Mark Lanier
#519
www.lanier-rv10.com
---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Scott Schmidt
Tronco Energy
Office 801-990-1252
Cell 801-718-1277
Fax 801-990-1256
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: AE Fuel Guardian Sensor Locations |
On 3/21/07, Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I don't know if the baffle is necessary. Right now, even though it is
> calibrated for 5 gallons, I know that when I have 10 gallons in the tank
> with light turbulence the light will come on. When I reset it, it stays off
> until it gets bumpy again (or if I have uncoordinated turns). I think the
> baffle system would have to be pretty complex to keep the light from coming
> on.
>
> If you have a fuel totalizer you should be fine. That fuel totalizer on
> the Grand Rapids can be calibrated and it is always within one gallon.
>
> Mark Lanier <markandangelasrv10@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Scott, that's exactly what I'm looking for, thanks! Anyone else with a
> different configuration?
>
> Thanks for including the additional info about the sloshing as well. It
> got me wondering if a long U-shaped channel bent out of some thin sheet
> stock and riveted vertically surrounding the sensor (open at the top and
> bottom) would act as a buffer for that sort of thing(?) My only question
> would be if aluminum in close proximity to the sensor would throw it off
> since the light needs to dissipate in the liquid. Would aluminum less than
> an inch away reflect the light back before it has time to dissipate and give
> a false reading?? Maybe I'm misunderstanding the sensor's function.
> Anyway, I've got an email to Aircraft Extras asking about this... maybe
> they'll reply with some info.
>
> Any thoughts on the baffle?
>
>
> Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Here is a picture of my location. I filled the tanks up with 5 gallons
> to get this location. I am pretty happy with this. Because of the fuel
> sloshing in the tanks though they start to come on if there is roughly 10
> gallons in the tank. The other day I landed and both lights were on when I
> landed. If I reset it, they will stay off until you hit a little bit of
> turbulence. When I filled the tanks, they only took 40 gallons which meant
> I had 20 gallons in each tank.
>
> I trust my fuel totalizer the most but the fuel guardians are there to
> remind you if you forgot to switch tanks or if you have a leak all of a
> sudden like Tim did when his fuel drain got stuck.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/124475#50698594
>
>
> Mark Lanier
> #519
> www.lanier-rv10.com
> ---------------------------------
> Don't pick lemons.
> See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
> Tronco Energy
> Office 801-990-1252
> Cell 801-718-1277
> Fax 801-990-1256
> scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
Message 3
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I'm trimming the door openings in the cabin top to fit between the fore
and aft bulkheads on the fuselage and it's getting thin. Looks like
I'll have about 1/8" of glass left on the vertical portions of the top
where it will connect to the bulkheads. This subject was discussed a
while back but I can't find where anyone posted a final thickness for
the top in this area. Does 1/8" sound like what the rest have been
seeing? Thanks..........John
J. Hasbrouck #40264
Message 4
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| Subject: | Tip for Trimming the doors |
I trimmed the return flange of the cabin cover to the scribe lines as
directed by the plans and ended up taking off too much. I may need to
build up the over trimmed areas with glass/epoxy. The trim lines were
straight as a dog's hind leg and very inaccurate.
I was not about to trust the trim lines on the doors. I trimmed the
doors yesterday for a pretty darn good fit. After trimming to 1/8" of
the scribe line per plans, the trick was to notch the door perimeter
down to the scribe line (notches about 1/8" wide) at 6-12" intervals.
When clecoed to the deck/fuse, use a fine sharpie to mark the position
of the notch on the deck/fuse to check how far away a cut to the scribe
line would be from the deck/fuse edge. Adjust the depth of the notches
to match the edges of the deck/fuse, then trim to the notches. If a
notch is too deep and extends past the edge of the deck/fuse, it is much
easier to fill the 1/8" notch than to try and build up an overtrimmed
door edge.
YMMV, but it worked a treat for me.
Cheers,
Ron
187 finishing
Message 5
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Yep - mine were about 1/8" also.
cheers,
Ron
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Sent: Thursday, 22 March 2007 8:57 AM
To: RV LIST
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top
I'm trimming the door openings in the cabin top to fit between
the fore and aft bulkheads on the fuselage and it's getting thin. Looks
like I'll have about 1/8" of glass left on the vertical portions of the
top where it will connect to the bulkheads. This subject was discussed
a while back but I can't find where anyone posted a final thickness for
the top in this area. Does 1/8" sound like what the rest have been
seeing? Thanks..........John
J. Hasbrouck #40264
Message 6
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John, that's about right, it seems a little thin compared to the rest of
the structure and after sanding off so much but it takes that much in
order to get it to fit between the bulkheads. There was another builder
over yesterday who was at the same place you are and he also commented
about it. Here's a couple of links to what I did.
page forward and back through this album to see several different pictures
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2043%20Cabin%20Cover/slides/DSC03354.html
here's the page from my construction log on the same topic:
http://deemsrv10.com/43-3s3-4.htm
Good Luck!
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> I'm trimming the door openings in the cabin top to fit between the
> fore and aft bulkheads on the fuselage and it's getting thin. Looks
> like I'll have about 1/8" of glass left on the vertical portions of
> the top where it will connect to the bulkheads. This subject was
> discussed a while back but I can't find where anyone posted a final
> thickness for the top in this area. Does 1/8" sound like what the
> rest have been seeing? Thanks..........John
>
> J. Hasbrouck #40264
> *
>
>
> *
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Tip for Trimming the doors |
Ron,
Great tip, thanks!
John Hasbrouck #40264
Message 8
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>
paper thin if you are lucky......breaking through in spots more likely.
I'm trimming the door openings in the cabin top to fit between the fore
> and aft bulkheads on the fuselage and it's getting thin. Looks like I'll
> have about 1/8" of glass left on the vertical portions of the top where it
> will connect to the bulkheads. This subject was discussed a while back
> but I can't find where anyone posted a final thickness for the top in this
> area. Does 1/8" sound like what the rest have been seeing?
> Thanks..........John
>
> J. Hasbrouck #40264
---------------------------------------------
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Thanks David McNeil |
Just wanted to thank Dave McNeil for posting the detailed instructions
regarding Phoenix Composites method for installing plexi windows.
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX-96601?KEYS=window_procedure?LISTNAME=RV10?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=21330712613?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
I opted to go this route rather than to deal with the Weld-On. After
reading the accounts of the limited working life and the difficulty in
removing the Weld On from anything that it contacts. I began the install
of one of my windows as a test case today using epoxy/flox/cabosil as
the adhesive. Time will tell if this holds up (Dave has several years in
his Glastar), but I'm happy enough with the process thus far that I'm
going ahead and using it on the remaining windows.
Thanks again Dave
PS. anybody that wants a good deal on 5 unused Weld-On kits e-mail me
off line.
Do Not Archive
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
>
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