Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:11 AM - Re: What have you done about defrost fan's ? (Ralph E. Capen)
2. 05:07 AM - Re: What have you done about defrost fan's ? (John Testement)
3. 06:04 AM - Re: Aileron Rigging Tip - Prevent Droopy Ailerons (Jesse Saint)
4. 06:17 AM - Re: What have you done about defrost fan's ? (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
5. 08:28 AM - Re: Aileron Rigging Tip - Prevent Droopy Ailerons (Shawn Moon)
6. 08:31 AM - Re: Kitlog ProKitlog Pro (Murray Automotive)
7. 09:22 AM - Starter for sale (Rob Kermanj)
8. 10:20 AM - Re: Re: Kitlog ProKitlog Pro ()
9. 10:28 AM - Re: Defrost fans (Phil White)
10. 11:30 AM - Re: Re: Defrost fans (Tim Olson)
11. 11:30 AM - Re: Re: Defrost fans (Tim Olson)
12. 04:53 PM - Elevator travel after pushrods are all connected. (John Gonzalez)
13. 05:24 PM - Re: Elevator travel after pushrods are all connected. (Jesse Saint)
14. 05:32 PM - Re: Elevator travel after pushrods are all connected. (John Hasbrouck)
15. 08:05 PM - Re: What have you done about defrost fan's ? (Richard Sipp)
16. 08:29 PM - Slick Start? (rv10builder)
17. 08:39 PM - Re: Slick Start? (Kevin Belue)
18. 09:14 PM - Re: Phosphoric Acid (linn Walters)
19. 09:25 PM - Re: Re: Defrost fans (ddddsp1@juno.com)
20. 09:49 PM - Re: Re: Defrost fans (Steven DiNieri)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: What have you done about defrost fan's ? |
I bought a couple of small pancake fans from radio shack, matching flanges
and scat tubing from spruce. I have mounted the fans under the topskin
centered in the through viewing area of the appropriate side. I dimpled the
through-skin attachment holes for #6 screws and drilled a bunch of #40 holes
for each fan's air to flow through. I will be wiring them to a switch
between both heater-cables and the scat will terminate so it scoops the
heated air at the firewall entry. Access is via my removeable instrument
panel so I don't have seperate panels for them.
My way for my 6A slider - not flying yet so I don't know if it'll even
work......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 12:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: What have you done about defrost fan's ?
>
> I'm planning on installing a couple of fans in the glareshield (upper fwd
> fuse) and am interested in learning what fans people have used, where they
> bought them and any install tips. I'm toying with the idea of installing
> them in removable access panels ala David Mc Neil if it doesn't introduce
> any structural issues. Any advice?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Deems Davis wrote:
>>
>> Spel ckeck, we don tneed no stinking Spel check :-P
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>>>
>>> Matt bought KitLog?!? Wow, thats cool! Maybe he will fix the problem
>>> where clicking next on a project web page takes you backward in dates
>>> instead of forward. That has always drove me nuts along with the run on
>>> paragraphs. Spell check would be great too. I also mentioned to Paul way
>>> back when I was beta testing his 2.0 release that adding the ability to
>>> attach files to entries like scanned receipts to expenses would be
>>> useful.
>>>
>>> Michael Sausen
>>>
>>> Do not archive
>>>
>>> *
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | What have you done about defrost fan's ? |
Deems,
I mounted a couple of small computer fans under the glareshield. I used a
circle cutter but now wish I had just drilled small holes (easier and don't
have to add a screen). I wired them to a panel switch.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 12:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: What have you done about defrost fan's ?
I'm planning on installing a couple of fans in the glareshield (upper fwd
fuse) and am interested in learning what fans people have used, where they
bought them and any install tips. I'm toying with the idea of installing
them in removable access panels ala David Mc Neil if it doesn't introduce
any structural issues. Any advice?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Spel ckeck, we don tneed no stinking Spel check :-P
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>>
>> Matt bought KitLog?!? Wow, thats cool! Maybe he will fix the problem
>> where clicking next on a project web page takes you backward in dates
>> instead of forward. That has always drove me nuts along with the run
>> on paragraphs. Spell check would be great too. I also mentioned to
>> Paul way back when I was beta testing his 2.0 release that adding the
>> ability to attach files to entries like scanned receipts to expenses
>> would be useful.
>>
>> Michael Sausen
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>> *
>> *
>
>
--
7:44 AM
--
7:44 AM
Message 3
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Subject: | Aileron Rigging Tip - Prevent Droopy Ailerons |
To get true comparison you should now switch the ailerons to the opposite of
where they are now and fly again. I know it's a lot of work, but just think
of the great formation flying you will get to experience again, and for the
benefit or all to boot.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging Tip - Prevent Droopy Ailerons
We have two stock RV-10's out at Watsonville, CA: one with ailerons set
trailing edges faired on ground, and one trailing edges faired in cruise.
The adjustments to get from the lower to higher position is one full rod end
turn per aileron or approx 1/4". Noticed that the aircraft with ailerons
adjusted to faired in cruise (higher) required that the lower leading edge
of the aileron begins to dip into the airstream suggesting that this is the
max upper limit. Formation flying was used to determine speed differences by
setting same power, fuel flow, & RPM.
Thinking about some very good input from others it would probably be wise to
duct tape the elevators fair with the horizonal stab to create a proper
origin and then set the ailerons. This would be best case for a forward CG
(front seat occupants with little baggage) mission.
We installed markers to help measure elevator vs horizontal stab difference,
added tuffs to flaps, ailerons, and wingtips.
Results were that in both cases the tuffs exitted the trailing edge parallel
with the aileron chord. This would make sense since we were probably
pitching the wing leading edge. The elevators were faired with the
horizontal stabilizer in flight. And the RV10 with the upper aileron setting
was "maybe 1 knot" faster.
Our conclusion was the speed difference was too small to be significant and
could have been due to other causes. If I were to experiment with this
further I would try a setting that the forward underside of the aileron
fairs smooth with the wing when the elevator is taped to the horizon stab.
This is probably somewhere between the settings tested.
Lessons learned:
1) Applying a lot of effort to aileron adjustment will probably not
produce speed improvements.
2) Formation flying is great fun!
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
billderou@yahoo.com
Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
Chris,
I think I have what you need. My wife was nice enough to drive
out to the hanger and get the measurements because I've been too
busy to get there. I had her measure from the tip of the
aileron to the tip of the flap with the flaps up. The ailerons
deflect upwards about 4" even, and they deflect downwards about 3"
even. That should give you an idea of the total travel that you'll
get. Sorry it took so long....darn wife, you know, she just didn't
jump quick enough. When I say jump, I expect to hear "How High?".
(Just kidding...and DO NOT ARCHIVE or I may find myself living
at the hanger!) She's a good girl, that's for sure.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Chris Johnston wrote:
>
> Hey all -
>
> All this talk about ailerons has got me wondering if someone could
> answer my previously (unanswered) question about how much downward throw
> the ailerons have? I don't want anything very scientific like degrees
> or anything. Just maybe a measurement from the trailing edge of the
> aileron at full down deflection to the trailing edge of the flap with
> the flap in the full up position. I'm still nervous about my rubbing
> issue, and I'm nowhere near mounting the wings so that I can see if it
> really
Message 4
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Subject: | What have you done about defrost fan's ? |
I used two direction heat ports, with flappers that can close each one,
then I used SCAT and a T to hook them together and terminated them to a
single fan port. This way you can get to it from down below and not have
to worry about it. Use the cheappo valves Van's gives for the panel for
this, and get the good ones from Stein for the panel.
Dan
N289DT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 12:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: What have you done about defrost fan's ?
I'm planning on installing a couple of fans in the glareshield (upper
fwd fuse) and am interested in learning what fans people have used,
where they bought them and any install tips. I'm toying with the idea of
installing them in removable access panels ala David Mc Neil if it
doesn't introduce any structural issues. Any advice?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Spel ckeck, we don tneed no stinking Spel check :-P
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>>
>> Matt bought KitLog?!? Wow, that's cool! Maybe he will fix the problem
>> where clicking next on a project web page takes you backward in dates
>> instead of forward. That' has always drove me nuts along with the run
>> on paragraphs. Spell check would be great too. I also mentioned to
>> Paul way back when I was beta testing his 2.0 release that adding the
>> ability to attach files to entries like scanned receipts to expenses
>> would be useful.
>>
>> Michael Sausen
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>> *
>> *
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Aileron Rigging Tip - Prevent Droopy Ailerons |
If you really need some treatment for that disease, you can come to Texas and work
on mine. :) Once mine is up, I'm sure that some others could also supply
doses of the "treatment".
--Shawn
40366 - Wings
do not archive
----- Original Message ----
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 9:18:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging Tip - Prevent Droopy Ailerons
I've been afflicted with a disease caused by my lack of a kit
to work on. It's symptoms include laziness, apathy, weight
gain, and all sorts of nasty things, but on the upside, my
flying skills have improved because the disease causes a
high affinity to burning 100LL fuel. Pretty soon I'll need
to get me a tail kit or something before it does some
permanent damage.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rick wrote:
>
> How come so many of us have asked before but now FINALLY an
> answer...AND you had to get your wife to do it!!!! :)
>
> Rick S. 40185
>
> do not archive
>
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Kitlog ProKitlog Pro |
This is great news. How do we get the repairs done to our individual
programs?.
Message 7
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Subject: | Starter for sale |
Hello All,
I have a ES 149-12 LS starter for sale for $200. Contact me off line
if you are interested.
Rob.
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Kitlog ProKitlog Pro |
The change was done on the web side. All you have to do is to re-save any offending
page and re-upload it to myskitlog.com
>
> From: "Murray Automotive" <dgmurray@swcmail.net>
> Date: 2007/03/23 Fri AM 10:31:02 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Kitlog ProKitlog Pro
>
> This is great news. How do we get the repairs done to our individual programs?.
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
Deems: Just installed my fans last week. Bought 92mm Silverstone
computer fans and grilles from MicroCenter computer people.
Used fly-cutter in a portable drill to cut holes, just prior to
installing windshield. I find they put out more air than I expected;
probably could have used the 80mm fan size, and still have lots of
defrost capability, plus avionics cooling. See pics.
Phil White #220 (doors + windows)
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: What have you done about defrost fan's ?
>
>
> I'm planning on installing a couple of fans in the glareshield (upper
> fwd fuse) and am interested in learning what fans people have used,
> where they bought them and any install tips. I'm toying with the idea of
> installing them in removable access panels ala David Mc Neil if it
> doesn't introduce any structural issues. Any advice?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
Phil,
Looks good. The extra air won't hurt. I think I used 80mm
fans myself. One bit of advice though....you'll definitely
want to toss those chrome grills and replace them with something
dark. I've found that ANYTHING on the glareshield that's shiny
is going to reflect really bad in the sun. I shopped around
for black grills, and I painted my screens black too. I
added the screens just to keep junk from falling behind my
panel and into the fan.
One unexpected issue I had with my fans that depending on
the location may affect people.... I wanted the fans
mounted away from the center of the windshield, so they
would blow in distinctly separate areas. The glareshield
was curved in that area. I found that although when I
installed the fans they worked well, after a while my
fans started to buzz from blades rubbing the housing. That's
because they were warping to fit the glareshield curves.
So, I used some 1/4" or 3/16" plexi painted black and
made some standoffs that I sanded in a slight curve on
the top side, so the angle fit the panel good, yet left
a flat surface for the fan to mount to. That made all
the difference in the world.
My original fan was a single center mounted fan that I
can't remember if it was 50mm or what, but it was too small
and too weak. You'll want one that blows pretty good.
Phil, yours will work just great I'm sure. Can't hurt
to have them on the big side.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Phil White wrote:
> Deems: Just installed my fans last week. Bought 92mm Silverstone
> computer fans and grilles from MicroCenter computer people.
> Used fly-cutter in a portable drill to cut holes, just prior to
> installing windshield. I find they put out more air than I expected;
> probably could have used the 80mm fan size, and still have lots of
> defrost capability, plus avionics cooling. See pics.
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
Sorry for the repost...forgot to include the link:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20061120/RV200611160001.html
Tim Olson wrote:
> Phil,
>
> Looks good. The extra air won't hurt. I think I used 80mm
> fans myself. One bit of advice though....you'll definitely
> want to toss those chrome grills and replace them with something
> dark. I've found that ANYTHING on the glareshield that's shiny
> is going to reflect really bad in the sun. I shopped around
> for black grills, and I painted my screens black too. I
> added the screens just to keep junk from falling behind my
> panel and into the fan.
>
> One unexpected issue I had with my fans that depending on
> the location may affect people.... I wanted the fans
> mounted away from the center of the windshield, so they
> would blow in distinctly separate areas. The glareshield
> was curved in that area. I found that although when I
> installed the fans they worked well, after a while my
> fans started to buzz from blades rubbing the housing. That's
> because they were warping to fit the glareshield curves.
>
> So, I used some 1/4" or 3/16" plexi painted black and
> made some standoffs that I sanded in a slight curve on
> the top side, so the angle fit the panel good, yet left
> a flat surface for the fan to mount to. That made all
> the difference in the world.
>
> My original fan was a single center mounted fan that I
> can't remember if it was 50mm or what, but it was too small
> and too weak. You'll want one that blows pretty good.
> Phil, yours will work just great I'm sure. Can't hurt
> to have them on the big side.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Phil White wrote:
>> Deems: Just installed my fans last week. Bought 92mm Silverstone
>> computer fans and grilles from MicroCenter computer people.
>> Used fly-cutter in a portable drill to cut holes, just prior to
>> installing windshield. I find they put out more air than I expected;
>> probably could have used the 80mm fan size, and still have lots of
>> defrost capability, plus avionics cooling. See pics.
>>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Elevator travel after pushrods are all connected. |
I am looking at pages 39-10, figure 2 and figure 3.
I set the elevator bellcrank into the nuetral position by using the angle
fabricated in an earlier section. The elevator counter balance horns are in
line with the HS when this is done.(GOOD)
My question is that I fabricated the Guage, step 1 page 39-10 and used it to
nuetral my control stick and line up the bearing hole in pushrod F-1089 with
the fork of part WD 1010. The bottom of step 2, it says perform final check
of control system once elevators are installed and check that the elevator
horns contact their stops prior to anything else in the control column
touching.
I have a problem that the F1065, page 39-8, figure 3 contacts the forward
most portion of the cutout in the tunnel side skins before the elevator
horns contact the aft elevator stop. It translates into about 1/4" of stick
pull back at the top of the stick and everthing torques a bit and then the
stop works. If if reset the position which the guage establishes, that would
give me more room to pull back on the stick and engage the elevator stop,
but it would also make the control stick in a more forward position while
elevators are in their neutral position.
What to do? Trim the cut out in the tunnel side skin maybe 1/4"
One other point.
No one ever mentioned anything about my comment regarding a binding point in
the system.
Page 39-8, figure 3, the bolts that tie F-1065 to the control bases,
WD-1011(R) (L), bind on part F-1033(R) (L) found on page 39-7 fig 4, when
the stick is pulled back to the most up elevator position then giving full
aileron to either side. If one does not push the stick forward before
neutralizing the ailerons, the stick is stuck in that aileron position.
(Again, Are their aileron stops in the wings that prevent these nuts from
getting hung up on part F-1033?)
John G. 409
Message 13
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Subject: | Elevator travel after pushrods are all connected. |
We have had to trim that cutout on at least one plane, and possibly more. I
think I remember reading somewhere in the plans that this might be
necessary.
On the binding issue, that will probably be taken care of with the aileron
stops, because I have never seen that issue, but I can't be sure without
actually looking at the plans and then looking at the plane. I will try to
get to that tomorrow, but I can't promise.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 7:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator travel after pushrods are all connected.
I am looking at pages 39-10, figure 2 and figure 3.
I set the elevator bellcrank into the nuetral position by using the angle
fabricated in an earlier section. The elevator counter balance horns are in
line with the HS when this is done.(GOOD)
My question is that I fabricated the Guage, step 1 page 39-10 and used it to
nuetral my control stick and line up the bearing hole in pushrod F-1089 with
the fork of part WD 1010. The bottom of step 2, it says perform final check
of control system once elevators are installed and check that the elevator
horns contact their stops prior to anything else in the control column
touching.
I have a problem that the F1065, page 39-8, figure 3 contacts the forward
most portion of the cutout in the tunnel side skins before the elevator
horns contact the aft elevator stop. It translates into about 1/4" of stick
pull back at the top of the stick and everthing torques a bit and then the
stop works. If if reset the position which the guage establishes, that would
give me more room to pull back on the stick and engage the elevator stop,
but it would also make the control stick in a more forward position while
elevators are in their neutral position.
What to do? Trim the cut out in the tunnel side skin maybe 1/4"
One other point.
No one ever mentioned anything about my comment regarding a binding point in
the system.
Page 39-8, figure 3, the bolts that tie F-1065 to the control bases,
WD-1011(R) (L), bind on part F-1033(R) (L) found on page 39-7 fig 4, when
the stick is pulled back to the most up elevator position then giving full
aileron to either side. If one does not push the stick forward before
neutralizing the ailerons, the stick is stuck in that aileron position.
(Again, Are their aileron stops in the wings that prevent these nuts from
getting hung up on part F-1033?)
John G. 409
--
7:44 AM
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Elevator travel after pushrods are all connected. |
John,
I found the same interferences with the hardware of the control stick
bases and the structure so I reversed all the hardware from the orientation
shown in the diagram. ( I don't have the plans with me so I can't give you
a figure number.) When I did that most of the interference went away. I
also found I needed to adjust the elevator tubes without relying on the two
jigs in the plans. There was some interference with the bottom of the
bellcrank ( battery box area) in full down travel and also some as you
describe with the tunnel sides. Took some playing with the rod ends to make
it work. Goal is to get full elevator travel without interference in the
system. I found to jigs to be less than helpfull. Previously posted this
some time back. Jesse commented that he hasn't seen this problem with his
planes so I can't say how common it is. I was feeling like the Loan Ranger
there for a while......John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: What have you done about defrost fan's ? |
Deems:
McMaster-Carr has a broad selection of fans...too many to pick from.
Dick Sipp
>
> I'm planning on installing a couple of fans in the glareshield (upper
> fwd fuse) and am interested in learning what fans people have used,
> where they bought them and any install tips. I'm toying with the idea of
> installing them in removable access panels ala David Mc Neil if it
> doesn't introduce any structural issues. Any advice?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 16
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|
Anybody know why the Slick Start is hard to get lately? I've got one on
order w/ Van's....well, backorder that is. Jesse - I recall you
mentioned something about the unit being discontinued/replaced?
Brian
#40308
http://www.mykitlog.com/rv10builder
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Slick Start? |
I ordered a SlickStart from Van's a couple of months ago but didn't have any
problem getting it. But, it was made for Slick mags and I have Bendix, so I
sent it back. The version for Bendix is not being made and I called a lot of
places looking for one. I finally found one in Canada and bought it - the
last one they had. I did see some in stock in South America. As far as I can
tell, you shouldn't have much problem finding a SlickStart if you have Slick
mags.
Kevin Belue
RV-6A flying
RV-10 finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "rv10builder" <rv10builder@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 10:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Slick Start?
>
> Anybody know why the Slick Start is hard to get lately? I've got one on
> order w/ Van's....well, backorder that is. Jesse - I recall you mentioned
> something about the unit being discontinued/replaced?
>
> Brian
> #40308
> http://www.mykitlog.com/rv10builder
>
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Phosphoric Acid |
Bottle of Coke??? :-D
Paint shops sell it as aluminum brightener.
Linn
do not archive
Rene wrote:
>
>
>Rene'
>801-721-6080
>
>
>Any ideas of where I can get some phosphoric acid?
>
>Rene
>N423CF
>40322
>Finish......or something like it.
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
By using the squirrel fan style of PC fan you can avoid a lot of the dra
wbacks Tim mentioned PLUS you need not cut a large circle/s in your glar
eshield. Also you will allow more room for your EFIS or EMS screens.
just my cents worth.
DEAN 40449
Mod 366 being completed
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<html><P>By using the squirrel fan style of PC fan you can avoid a lot o
f the drawbacks Tim mentioned PLUS you need not cut a large circle/s in
your glareshield. Also you will allow more room for your EFIS or E
MS screens.</P>
<P>just my cents worth.</P>
<P>DEAN 40449</P>
<P>Mod 366 being completed</P>
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Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
How about sticking one of those computer fans on the tunnel with a pair of
1" scats up to the dash. It'll give those btu's stuck in the tunnel
something productive to do. Plus we'd be able to smell a fuel leak in there
sooner...
Steve
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Defrost fans
By using the squirrel fan style of PC fan you can avoid a lot of the
drawbacks Tim mentioned PLUS you need not cut a large circle/s in your
glareshield. Also you will allow more room for your EFIS or EMS screens.
just my cents worth.
DEAN 40449
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