Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:45 AM - RV-10 Throttle Quadrant Documentation (Richard Reynolds)
2. 06:19 AM - Re: RV-10 Throttle Quadrant Documentation (Albert Gardner)
3. 06:29 AM - Re: High Oil Temps (gary)
4. 06:29 AM - Re: High Oil Temps (gary)
5. 06:37 AM - Re: RV-10 Throttle Quadrant Documentation (Tim Olson)
6. 09:08 AM - section 43, transparencies. (John Gonzalez)
7. 09:15 AM - Oil Changes ( how often ) (Randy DeBauw)
8. 09:29 AM - Re: Oil Changes ( how often ) (Rhonda Bewley)
9. 09:49 AM - Re: Oil Changes ( how often ) (Tim Olson)
10. 09:59 AM - Re: section 43, transparencies. (Deems Davis)
11. 10:28 AM - Re: section 43, transparencies. (Jeff Carpenter)
12. 11:01 AM - Re: section 43, transparencies. (Jesse Saint)
13. 11:02 AM - Re: Oil Changes ( how often ) (Jesse Saint)
14. 11:02 AM - Re: Oil Changes ( how often ) (Scott Schmidt)
15. 11:17 AM - Re: Flying the RV10 for the first time (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
16. 11:20 AM - Garmin G-900X in RV Panel (Robin Marks)
17. 11:36 AM - Re: section 43, transparencies. (John Gonzalez)
18. 11:59 AM - Re: Flying the RV10 for the first time (Jesse Saint)
19. 01:01 PM - Should the aileron bellcrank bushing be lubricated? (MauleDriver)
20. 01:04 PM - Re: Flying the RV10 for the first time (Mark Ritter)
21. 02:00 PM - Re: RV-10 Throttle Quadrant Documentation (Richard Reynolds)
22. 02:04 PM - Re: Oil Changes ( how often ) (Rob Kermanj)
23. 02:05 PM - Should the aileron bellcrank bushing be lubricated? (Fred Williams, M.D.)
24. 02:53 PM - Re: Oil Changes ( how often ) (John Jessen)
25. 02:55 PM - G530W, Trutrak and GRT (Rob Kermanj)
26. 03:43 PM - Electrical: Dynon and Lightspeed Ignition (Albert Gardner)
27. 04:25 PM - Re: Should the aileron bellcrank bushing be lubricated? (MauleDriver)
28. 05:29 PM - Fuselage weight (John Hasbrouck)
29. 05:53 PM - Re: Fuselage weight (Rene Felker)
30. 06:05 PM - Re: Fuselage weight ()
31. 07:31 PM - Re: Fuselage weight (Jesse Saint)
32. 07:31 PM - Re: Electrical: Dynon and Lightspeed Ignition (Jesse Saint)
33. 07:32 PM - Re: section 43, transparencies. (John W. Cox)
34. 07:47 PM - Re: Flying the RV10 for the first time (John W. Cox)
35. 07:49 PM - Re: Fuselage weight (John Cram)
36. 08:00 PM - Re: Oil Changes ( how often ) (John W. Cox)
37. 08:17 PM - Re: Re: Fuselage weight ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | RV-10 Throttle Quadrant Documentation |
What is the drawing number of the RV-10 throttle quadrant
installation? I have misplaced mine.
Richard Reynolds
Message 2
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| Subject: | RV-10 Throttle Quadrant Documentation |
31Q is mainly mounting quad to sub-panel and 41Q is attaching quad.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Throttle Quadrant Documentation
What is the drawing number of the RV-10 throttle quadrant
installation? I have misplaced mine.
Richard Reynolds
Message 3
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This thought occurred to me also. I have a genset on my motor home that
runs hot. I changed to synthetic oil and it runs cooler. Should work on
Lycs too.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: High Oil Temps
I have also been meaning to ask about synthetic oil. I have read posts on
advrider.com about people switching to synthetic oil and seeing lower oil
temperatures on their air-cooled BMW bikes.
Has anyone had a similar experience? I now have 160 hours on my engine and
I am planning on switching to synthetic on my next change.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2007 6:04:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: High Oil Temps
The archives are full of the posted problem causes and correction
possibilities to this dilemma. I forwarded to Tim a great On Demand Video
series from Lycoming on the importance of oil and its handling to be placed
at RV University. It is worth your time to review. Keep your oil level
UP.
1. There was, is and will remain to be several factors affecting
unusual operating temperatures. The first point is that aluminum engine
components do not like high temperatures. I have a lower threshold for
acceptable operating temperature than several readers so I will not expound
or rehash.
2. The aircraft in a "High Alpha" or High angle of attack
configuration changes the flow (negatively) into the forward cooling
openings and changes the relative airflow over and extraction of discharged
heat in the lower cowl (out the bottom). Draw yourself an airflow diagram
and you will see how bends and contortions make little sense.
3. The material used in transporting High Pressure /Lower temperature
ambient airflow to the oil heat exchanger is of importance. I was hopeful
that a few HVAC specialist would pipe up on the obvious area for improvement
in the VAN designed Scat system.
4. Dan Checkoway has posted the value in improved flow heat exchangers
and the inherent cracking of exchanger mounts as designed and plans built -
the baffle material takes a tremendous shock - so DSS balance your engine
(and your avionics will love you too). Learn from Dan's posts too.
Answer to #1. Reduce the number of constricting 90 degree duct bends by
creating your own - improved airflow duct system. Consider leaving the
cheap, available and easy to buy Scat tubing and consider a two BID
composite smooth wall distribution plenum. To keep your temperatures lower,
move to a more temperate locale like one that rains frequently and has
little sunlight. I am a strong proponent of Forsling Exhaust and ceramic
coating them ( ie. Scott Schmidt).
Answer to #2, choose to keep guys like me out of the back seat and keep your
nose low in a low and passive state of climb - under 115 knots. (that is
NOT why I bought the RV-10). I want to climb like a bandit and get out of
Dodge in a hurry. You can design that feature back into your cowl and your
airflow distribution system - Simply.
Answer #3 Insulate your composite duct To and From the heat exchanger.
Answer #4 Get a more efficient exchanger while you are doing mods as Dan
did.
Now back to the diatribe. Three 90 degree elbows (that equals 270 degrees
of contortion) and trying to force the Heat Exchanger duct forward into a
direct opposition of high pressure 115 mph air /heated flow downward and aft
from over the cylinder fins is not "brilliant aerodynamic design". Think
about trying to blow into a 2.5" scat tube sticking out the window of your
car at 100 mph. Take it upon yourself to create a mount bracket and
exchanger orientation which works at the most important time - Climb
configuration. Consider studying why the James High Pressure Induction
Plenum can be of value over a plans built variant. Again, my past posts
stated that cooling is enhanced by Delta P and Delta T. Pressure
Differential and Temperature Differential between the upper and lower decks.
I am not a proponent of solely the louvers but they are a half hearted
attempt at a correction for a known problem. Design the direction and
capture of ambient airflow for the 'High Alpha' configuration. Draw a
simple cartoon of the airflow path into and out of your aircraft while in
High Alpha - again think about blowing out the window of your cabin. Cruise
configuration will take care of itself. Assist the flow with logical and
smooth curves into and out of the exchanger. If doing louvers, then make
them so they are designed for High Alpha orientation. Yes, the positive
pressure increases on the bottom (the more reduced pressure of the lower
cowl negates) against the change over the top (when in High Alpha). This
reduces, negates or defeats the affective extraction of convective airflow
in comparison to cruise. Hence - augmenters.
Keep your oil clean and up to the right level. Keep building.
John Cox #600 in 2015 or about. (Oh and I do have a CHT number for "Houston
we have a problem" ) Kelly this is your cue to pipe in here!
PS - the aluminum can talk back and top ends are expensive but that is what
maintenance is for. right? I also like the ability to run LOP so I can save
the fuel for ROP in High Alpha.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of KiloPapa
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: High Oil Temps
I appreciate the open discussion and brain-storming regarding the oil temps,
oil cooler location, etc.
Keep it going!
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
"http://forums.matronics.com/" target=_blank
rel=nofollow>http://forums==================
Message 4
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This thought occurred to me also. I have a genset on my motor home that
runs hot. I changed to synthetic oil and it runs cooler. Should work on
Lycs too.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: High Oil Temps
I have also been meaning to ask about synthetic oil. I have read posts on
advrider.com about people switching to synthetic oil and seeing lower oil
temperatures on their air-cooled BMW bikes.
Has anyone had a similar experience? I now have 160 hours on my engine and
I am planning on switching to synthetic on my next change.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2007 6:04:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: High Oil Temps
The archives are full of the posted problem causes and correction
possibilities to this dilemma. I forwarded to Tim a great On Demand Video
series from Lycoming on the importance of oil and its handling to be placed
at RV University. It is worth your time to review. Keep your oil level
UP.
1. There was, is and will remain to be several factors affecting
unusual operating temperatures. The first point is that aluminum engine
components do not like high temperatures. I have a lower threshold for
acceptable operating temperature than several readers so I will not expound
or rehash.
2. The aircraft in a "High Alpha" or High angle of attack
configuration changes the flow (negatively) into the forward cooling
openings and changes the relative airflow over and extraction of discharged
heat in the lower cowl (out the bottom). Draw yourself an airflow diagram
and you will see how bends and contortions make little sense.
3. The material used in transporting High Pressure /Lower temperature
ambient airflow to the oil heat exchanger is of importance. I was hopeful
that a few HVAC specialist would pipe up on the obvious area for improvement
in the VAN designed Scat system.
4. Dan Checkoway has posted the value in improved flow heat exchangers
and the inherent cracking of exchanger mounts as designed and plans built -
the baffle material takes a tremendous shock - so DSS balance your engine
(and your avionics will love you too). Learn from Dan's posts too.
Answer to #1. Reduce the number of constricting 90 degree duct bends by
creating your own - improved airflow duct system. Consider leaving the
cheap, available and easy to buy Scat tubing and consider a two BID
composite smooth wall distribution plenum. To keep your temperatures lower,
move to a more temperate locale like one that rains frequently and has
little sunlight. I am a strong proponent of Forsling Exhaust and ceramic
coating them ( ie. Scott Schmidt).
Answer to #2, choose to keep guys like me out of the back seat and keep your
nose low in a low and passive state of climb - under 115 knots. (that is
NOT why I bought the RV-10). I want to climb like a bandit and get out of
Dodge in a hurry. You can design that feature back into your cowl and your
airflow distribution system - Simply.
Answer #3 Insulate your composite duct To and From the heat exchanger.
Answer #4 Get a more efficient exchanger while you are doing mods as Dan
did.
Now back to the diatribe. Three 90 degree elbows (that equals 270 degrees
of contortion) and trying to force the Heat Exchanger duct forward into a
direct opposition of high pressure 115 mph air /heated flow downward and aft
from over the cylinder fins is not "brilliant aerodynamic design". Think
about trying to blow into a 2.5" scat tube sticking out the window of your
car at 100 mph. Take it upon yourself to create a mount bracket and
exchanger orientation which works at the most important time - Climb
configuration. Consider studying why the James High Pressure Induction
Plenum can be of value over a plans built variant. Again, my past posts
stated that cooling is enhanced by Delta P and Delta T. Pressure
Differential and Temperature Differential between the upper and lower decks.
I am not a proponent of solely the louvers but they are a half hearted
attempt at a correction for a known problem. Design the direction and
capture of ambient airflow for the 'High Alpha' configuration. Draw a
simple cartoon of the airflow path into and out of your aircraft while in
High Alpha - again think about blowing out the window of your cabin. Cruise
configuration will take care of itself. Assist the flow with logical and
smooth curves into and out of the exchanger. If doing louvers, then make
them so they are designed for High Alpha orientation. Yes, the positive
pressure increases on the bottom (the more reduced pressure of the lower
cowl negates) against the change over the top (when in High Alpha). This
reduces, negates or defeats the affective extraction of convective airflow
in comparison to cruise. Hence - augmenters.
Keep your oil clean and up to the right level. Keep building.
John Cox #600 in 2015 or about. (Oh and I do have a CHT number for "Houston
we have a problem" ) Kelly this is your cue to pipe in here!
PS - the aluminum can talk back and top ends are expensive but that is what
maintenance is for. right? I also like the ability to run LOP so I can save
the fuel for ROP in High Alpha.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of KiloPapa
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: High Oil Temps
I appreciate the open discussion and brain-storming regarding the oil temps,
oil cooler location, etc.
Keep it going!
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
"http://forums.matronics.com/" target=_blank
rel=nofollow>http://forums==================
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Throttle Quadrant Documentation |
Van's sends you Section 31Q and 41Q to replace your original plans
sections when you get the quadrant. (They didn't automatically send
mine, but I had to get them from them, which they provided
electronically)
Since they provided them electronically, I'll email them to
you if you want. They're about 7.1-7.7Mb each. I can't guarantee it's
the very latest revision, but it should help.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Richard Reynolds wrote:
>
> What is the drawing number of the RV-10 throttle quadrant installation?
> I have misplaced mine.
>
> Richard Reynolds
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | section 43, transparencies. |
A joggle is where a molded part indents in to receive another part so that
parts make a lap joint. In this email I am speaking of the window joggles on
the cabin top.
I finished the sizing of the rear windows and I noticed that both the right
and left window joggles on the cabin top for the rear windows, at the
forward edge, mid way up, are both too shallow to allow the plexiglass to
fit flush to the outer skin of the cabin top. It is about 1/8" too shallow.
If too deep, shims are used to build it up.
The question is, are people finding this area of the cabin top needs to be
built up once the doors are installed, because the door stands proud or
should I sand some material out of the joggle(It is solid fiberglass) so
that the plexiglass sits flush?
Why is this fiberglass part so poorly produced? It is as though the window
cutouts(Joggles) were scribed by a kindergardener. Keeping the window edge
trimming distance consistent is very difficult when nothing makes consistent
arcs or staight lines. This part is pretty shameful.
Thanks,
JOhn
Message 7
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| Subject: | Oil Changes ( how often ) |
Just to keep on the oil subject how often are you changing your oil? Me
I change my oil every 25 hours. Anyone else? Randy 40006
Message 8
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| Subject: | Oil Changes ( how often ) |
Randy - every 25 hours, cut the filter and don't forget to check the
finger screen.
Rhonda
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 11:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
Just to keep on the oil subject how often are you changing your oil? Me
I change my oil every 25 hours. Anyone else? Randy 40006
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Changes ( how often ) |
I'm usually trying to do it a bit before 50 hours, usually 35-45 hours
into a change. Depends on the situation. If I am flying a long trip,
I try to get it done before the trip. Depending on who you talk to,
you'll hear 25 to 50, with the 50 being only if you have a spin-on
filter...which we pretty much all do. It will only be better to change
it more often, but depending on your oil choice, it can cost a lot
to stick to a strict 25. I do also do oil analysis at every change
to get a trend going for monitoring.
Clean oil is your friend though, so you're doing great if you keep
up on the 25.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rhonda Bewley wrote:
> Randy every 25 hours, cut the filter and dont forget to check the
> finger screen.
>
>
>
> //Rhonda//
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy DeBauw
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 02, 2007 11:14 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
>
>
>
> Just to keep on the oil subject how often are you changing your oil? Me
> I change my oil every 25 hours. Anyone else? Randy 40006
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: section 43, transparencies. |
John, Having recently completed this step. Here's my experience.
Rear windows: The joggle was inconsistent in its depth and depending
upon how much of a gap you left when trimming the windows the
inconsistencies in the corner of the joggle contributed to the windows
fitting unevenly. (window stands proud if trimmed very closely) I used
the side of a small heavy duty cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool and 60
grit sandpaper to 'clean-out' the corners of the joggle and to relieve
the joggle seat where necessary to make it flat and as consistent a seat
as possible. Once that was done I found that it was necessary to shim
the rear windows with washers to get them flush with the cabin cover.
Door windows, The same issue with the inconsistent depth of the joggle
joints as for the rear windows, and I applied the same corrective
action. However I found that the door windows did NOT require shimming,
and in fact despite the corrective action, I found that a couple of the
corners were a bit 'proud' and required some sanding to fair/blend into
the door skins.
Re fitting the Cabin cover to the doors. I did some extensive work to
ensure that the doors and cabin cover matched
http://deemsrv10.com/cabinwindowslogindex.html. I was not happy with the
rounded edge of the cabin cover and the relatively straight edge of the
doors. So when fitting the doors. I built up the cabin cover door
opening so that I could match the appearance of the door. It is an
entirely cosmetic activity, but I found that there were minor
inconsistencies in the exterior of the door skins and the cabin cover
that could only be corrected when the doors are fit. It you've haven't
already fit your doors, you might hold off on attaching the windows
until you have, as that will effect the 'fairing' if you choose to do so.
The disconnect between the quality on the alum parts vs the fiberglass
parts in the kit is appalling, the only thing more appalling is Van's
unwillingness to do anything about it.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> A joggle is where a molded part indents in to receive another part so
> that parts make a lap joint. In this email I am speaking of the window
> joggles on the cabin top.
>
> I finished the sizing of the rear windows and I noticed that both the
> right and left window joggles on the cabin top for the rear windows,
> at the forward edge, mid way up, are both too shallow to allow the
> plexiglass to fit flush to the outer skin of the cabin top. It is
> about 1/8" too shallow. If too deep, shims are used to build it up.
>
> The question is, are people finding this area of the cabin top needs
> to be built up once the doors are installed, because the door stands
> proud or should I sand some material out of the joggle(It is solid
> fiberglass) so that the plexiglass sits flush?
>
> Why is this fiberglass part so poorly produced? It is as though the
> window cutouts(Joggles) were scribed by a kindergardener. Keeping the
> window edge trimming distance consistent is very difficult when
> nothing makes consistent arcs or staight lines. This part is pretty
> shameful.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: section 43, transparencies. |
Hi John,
Having just returned from the AirCrafters composite class (where we
fit a cabin top), I believe I can actually answer this one. You do
wind up building up the cabin top (with flox) to bring it up flush
with the window. You'll find that you also need to do it on the
forward side of the door.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
HIDs
On May 2, 2007, at 9:06 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> A joggle is where a molded part indents in to receive another part
> so that parts make a lap joint. In this email I am speaking of the
> window joggles on the cabin top.
>
> I finished the sizing of the rear windows and I noticed that both
> the right and left window joggles on the cabin top for the rear
> windows, at the forward edge, mid way up, are both too shallow to
> allow the plexiglass to fit flush to the outer skin of the cabin
> top. It is about 1/8" too shallow. If too deep, shims are used to
> build it up.
>
> The question is, are people finding this area of the cabin top
> needs to be built up once the doors are installed, because the door
> stands proud or should I sand some material out of the joggle(It is
> solid fiberglass) so that the plexiglass sits flush?
>
> Why is this fiberglass part so poorly produced? It is as though the
> window cutouts(Joggles) were scribed by a kindergardener. Keeping
> the window edge trimming distance consistent is very difficult when
> nothing makes consistent arcs or staight lines. This part is pretty
> shameful.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | section 43, transparencies. |
I don't know a LOT about fiberglass work, but from people I have talked to,
the fiberglass parts on the -10, for the most part, are fairly decent
quality. I am sure I will get slammed for saying that, but I am just
quoting what I have heard Lancair builders say, mainly about the cabin top
and cowling. It is certainly a TON easier to get an exact aluminum part
than an exact fiberglass part (science vs. art? - please don't slam me for
this, just IMHO). The nice thing about fiberglass is that you can just
build up or sand down to get something to fit.
OK, now to a response. I have seen the same issue you are talking about,
with the rear door frame on the cabin top having kind of a "flat" in it
where either the mold was wrong or the layup was wrong, but we just build
that area up after the window is in place and the door is installed. A good
way to get a good fit is to get the windows and doors installed, then put
some kind of tape on the part that is out further, then fill in that area
with Flox or Micro (depending on how far it needs to be built up), then sand
down to your tape and it should match nicely. We have even gone as far in
the past as filling both parts, sanding smooth, then running a cutting wheel
down between the two to get a nice even crack. It is hard to get the doors
perfect (or possibly impossible, especially with such a lightweight and weak
door), but you can get it pretty good. I would also agree with Deems that
you want to fit the door on the fuse and then put the window on the door
while it is on the fuse to make sure to hold the right shape.
I hope that seems somewhat coherent.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 12:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: section 43, transparencies.
A joggle is where a molded part indents in to receive another part so that
parts make a lap joint. In this email I am speaking of the window joggles on
the cabin top.
I finished the sizing of the rear windows and I noticed that both the right
and left window joggles on the cabin top for the rear windows, at the
forward edge, mid way up, are both too shallow to allow the plexiglass to
fit flush to the outer skin of the cabin top. It is about 1/8" too shallow.
If too deep, shims are used to build it up.
The question is, are people finding this area of the cabin top needs to be
built up once the doors are installed, because the door stands proud or
should I sand some material out of the joggle(It is solid fiberglass) so
that the plexiglass sits flush?
Why is this fiberglass part so poorly produced? It is as though the window
cutouts(Joggles) were scribed by a kindergardener. Keeping the window edge
trimming distance consistent is very difficult when nothing makes consistent
arcs or staight lines. This part is pretty shameful.
Thanks,
JOhn
--
PM
Message 13
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| Subject: | Oil Changes ( how often ) |
50 hrs with a filter and every once in a while 25 hours without a new
filter.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 12:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
Just to keep on the oil subject how often are you changing your oil? Me I
change my oil every 25 hours. Anyone else? Randy 40006
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Changes ( how often ) |
I wanted to ask the exact same question Randy so thanks. Right now I have
been changing my oil every 25 hours but like I mentioned before, I am going
to change to the ExxonElite semi-synthetic and would like to go from 25 -
no more than 50 hours like Tim mentioned. Right now I am changing my oil e
very 25 days roughly and the guys around the airport say that I could defin
itely go to 50 hours with no problems even with straight 100 oil. So if I c
an go 35-50 hours (again depending if a bigger trip is coming up) and use s
emi-synthetic that would be great for the work load. =0A =0AScott Schmidt
=0Ascottmschmidt@yahoo.com=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: T
im Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday,
May 2, 2007 9:48:28 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
'm usually trying to do it a bit before 50 hours, usually 35-45 hours=0Aint
o a change. Depends on the situation. If I am flying a long trip,=0AI try
to get it done before the trip. Depending on who you talk to,=0Ayou'll he
ar 25 to 50, with the 50 being only if you have a spin-on=0Afilter...which
we pretty much all do. It will only be better to change=0Ait more often, b
ut depending on your oil choice, it can cost a lot=0Ato stick to a strict 2
5. I do also do oil analysis at every change=0Ato get a trend going for mo
nitoring.=0A=0AClean oil is your friend though, so you're doing great if yo
u keep=0Aup on the 25.=0A=0ATim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying=0Ado not arch
ive=0A=0A=0ARhonda Bewley wrote:=0A> Randy ' every 25 hours, cut the filt
er and don=92t forget to check the =0A> finger screen.=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>
//Rhonda//=0A> =0A> -------------------------------------------------------
-----------------=0A> =0A> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com =0A
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy DeBauw
=0A> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 02, 2007 11:14 AM=0A> *To:* rv10-list@matronics
.com=0A> *Subject:* RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A
> Just to keep on the oil subject how often are you changing your oil? Me
=0A> I change my oil every 25 hours. Anyone else? Randy 40006=0A> =0A> *
*=0A> =0A> * *=0A> =0A> **=0A> =0A> **=0A> =0A> **=0A> =0A> **=0A> =0A> **
================
Message 15
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| Subject: | Flying the RV10 for the first time |
You need to be careful on this, allot of people follow this list and
read your recommendations on both safety of flight issues, as well as
equipage for IFR, but they do not know you do not have a pilots license
and do not have any IMC time, to make this type of comment could lead
allot of low time pilots to believe that they can get by without
training. When I got the transition training from Mike and let him
review your comment he stated that even he, as the pilot with the "most
RV time around" would not get into a new plane and fly when/if there is
transition training available, even he would take several hours and
learn the intricacies of the new plane.
I can not stress the value of transition training enough, regardless of
how much time you have, this is why most insurance agencies will not
insure without dual time. We do not want to end up like the Lancair guys
and have our insurance so high it is unaffordable. We are building plans
valued north of $100k and in the scheme of things transition training is
a very low cost item to help ensure a successful first flight.
Dan Lloyd
N289DT
RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 10:17 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
I guess that mainly depends on how much time and in how many other
planes you have flown. My dad didn't get transition training, just took
a demo flight at Van's (which is far from helpful in learning to fly the
plane), and he had no problem (and now has over 400 safe hours in the
-10). The plane really is not difficult to fly. I am not knocking
transition training at all, but just offering a little more insight from
experience.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 8:38 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
Dan,
I can not agree with you more about the value of transition training. I
trained a couple of weeks ago with Alex D in Texas. Yes there are a lot
of new things us spam canners need to learn, unlearn, and adjust to. I
think it would be a mistake to jump in your new 10 without the training
(most insurers wouldn't let you).
I will probably do a few more hours of dual just before mine is ready
to fly - I am hoping it is just a couple of months now.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff - 90% done, 90% to go!
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 12:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
Hey guys,
I have spent the past day out in Oregon with Mike Seager and flying the
factory 10. I now have 3 hours in type and 15 landings. I have two more
days to fly with him and try and get my mind wrapped around this fast
bird. I know many of you have 4/6/7/8 time, and the 10 is not the same,
but all I can say is WOOHOO! Put the throttle in and it instantly leaps
in the air, blink and we are passing through 2k ft. We flew North and
trued out over 200MPH,
did I say this plane is incredible?? 2.5 years and I am in the home
stretch, and I can not wait to fly my own, and finally report my first
flight.
I know it sounds funny, but we chose to build the 10 without ever having
been in one, and all of expectations have been met and exceeded. For
those of you in the same boat as myself, 150 hrs in SPAM cans, I can not
stress the value of transition training and spending the time necessary
to get used to these planes. Things are happening so fast that it is
difficult at first, but after several hours with Mike I am starting to
feel that with a couple hundred more I might make an RV pilot. One thing
that I find very funny is that I have heard about P-factor and the need
for right rudder, and thought I knew about it, but the first time you
put the throttle to 260 HP you quickly realize what you had no clue
about!!! Get the transition training so you are ready.
While I have been out here I have met a couple of the guys and toured
Vans factory, too cool to say the least. But other than flying the 10,
the most memorable part of the trip is the hospitality of Ed Hayden, he
helped me around town, and took an afternoon to show me his project.
What a plane, all the bell's and whistles and then some! I can not wait
to reciprocate when he comes to town. It is the builder community that
makes this so much fun and Ed is a pillar of the community making us
feel welcome!
THX
Dan Lloyd
N289DT RV10E Finally I can say finishing up!!!
Dan Lloyd
Director of Information Technology
Werner Company
93 Werner Road
Greenville, PA 16125
lloyddr@wernerco.com <mailto:lloyddr@wernerco.com>
1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
1-724-988-9230 cell
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
12:19 PM
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Garmin G-900X in RV Panel |
Has anyone on the list decided to go with the Garmin G-900X in their
RV-10? And if so are you far enough along to have dealt with the solving
the panel support structure issues?
Robin Marks
Shaking the piggy bank to see what is left
Message 17
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| Subject: | section 43, transparencies. |
Hi guys,
Thanks for the replies.
I actually enjoy this fiberglass stuff, but I don't appreciate having to do
a lot of extra work that should have been done correctly to begin with,
epecially when I(we)still have so many other things to do. It typically
would be a lot of work even with a nicely molded part.
JOhn
>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: section 43, transparencies.
>Date: Wed, 2 May 2007 14:00:53 -0400
>
>
>I don't know a LOT about fiberglass work, but from people I have talked to,
>the fiberglass parts on the -10, for the most part, are fairly decent
>quality. I am sure I will get slammed for saying that, but I am just
>quoting what I have heard Lancair builders say, mainly about the cabin top
>and cowling. It is certainly a TON easier to get an exact aluminum part
>than an exact fiberglass part (science vs. art? - please don't slam me for
>this, just IMHO). The nice thing about fiberglass is that you can just
>build up or sand down to get something to fit.
>
>OK, now to a response. I have seen the same issue you are talking about,
>with the rear door frame on the cabin top having kind of a "flat" in it
>where either the mold was wrong or the layup was wrong, but we just build
>that area up after the window is in place and the door is installed. A
>good
>way to get a good fit is to get the windows and doors installed, then put
>some kind of tape on the part that is out further, then fill in that area
>with Flox or Micro (depending on how far it needs to be built up), then
>sand
>down to your tape and it should match nicely. We have even gone as far in
>the past as filling both parts, sanding smooth, then running a cutting
>wheel
>down between the two to get a nice even crack. It is hard to get the doors
>perfect (or possibly impossible, especially with such a lightweight and
>weak
>door), but you can get it pretty good. I would also agree with Deems that
>you want to fit the door on the fuse and then put the window on the door
>while it is on the fuse to make sure to hold the right shape.
>
>I hope that seems somewhat coherent.
>
>Do not archive
>
>Jesse Saint
>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>jesse@saintaviation.com
>www.saintaviation.com
>Cell: 352-427-0285
>Fax: 815-377-3694
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 12:07 PM
>To: RV10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: section 43, transparencies.
>
>
>A joggle is where a molded part indents in to receive another part so that
>parts make a lap joint. In this email I am speaking of the window joggles
>on
>
>the cabin top.
>
>I finished the sizing of the rear windows and I noticed that both the right
>and left window joggles on the cabin top for the rear windows, at the
>forward edge, mid way up, are both too shallow to allow the plexiglass to
>fit flush to the outer skin of the cabin top. It is about 1/8" too shallow.
>If too deep, shims are used to build it up.
>
>The question is, are people finding this area of the cabin top needs to be
>built up once the doors are installed, because the door stands proud or
>should I sand some material out of the joggle(It is solid fiberglass) so
>that the plexiglass sits flush?
>
>Why is this fiberglass part so poorly produced? It is as though the window
>cutouts(Joggles) were scribed by a kindergardener. Keeping the window edge
>trimming distance consistent is very difficult when nothing makes
>consistent
>
>arcs or staight lines. This part is pretty shameful.
>
>Thanks,
>
>JOhn
>
>
>--
>PM
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Flying the RV10 for the first time |
I hope I wasn't understood to say that Transition Training is not a good
idea. I think it is a great idea and very valuable. What I should have
added is that the plane is not a difficult airplane to fly (no, I don't have
a pilot's license, but that doesn't mean I can't fly or haven't flown). I
do highly recommend transition training, whether official or otherwise. We
had a guy here the other day from Ireland who wanted "Transition Training"
because he is hopefully going to fly soon in the UK. He was a very low-time
pilot and did quite well moving up from a Cessna 172.
So, for the record:
Low time pilots - Please get some kind of transition training, either
official and loggable or otherwise with a competent instructor.
High time pilot with lots of experience in this type of plane - Get
transition training if it is possible, but you are not going to be in for a
lot of surprises with this one.
The thought of anybody taking my comments on this list as anything more than
my opinion based on my experience (or someone else's experience if so
stated) is a little scary.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 2:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
You need to be careful on this, allot of people follow this list and read
your recommendations on both safety of flight issues, as well as equipage
for IFR, but they do not know you do not have a pilots license and do not
have any IMC time, to make this type of comment could lead allot of low time
pilots to believe that they can get by without training. When I got the
transition training from Mike and let him review your comment he stated that
even he, as the pilot with the "most RV time around" would not get into a
new plane and fly when/if there is transition training available, even he
would take several hours and learn the intricacies of the new plane.
I can not stress the value of transition training enough, regardless of how
much time you have, this is why most insurance agencies will not insure
without dual time. We do not want to end up like the Lancair guys and have
our insurance so high it is unaffordable. We are building plans valued north
of $100k and in the scheme of things transition training is a very low cost
item to help ensure a successful first flight.
Dan Lloyd
N289DT
RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 10:17 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
I guess that mainly depends on how much time and in how many other planes
you have flown. My dad didn't get transition training, just took a demo
flight at Van's (which is far from helpful in learning to fly the plane),
and he had no problem (and now has over 400 safe hours in the -10). The
plane really is not difficult to fly. I am not knocking transition training
at all, but just offering a little more insight from experience.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 8:38 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
Dan,
I can not agree with you more about the value of transition training. I
trained a couple of weeks ago with Alex D in Texas. Yes there are a lot of
new things us spam canners need to learn, unlearn, and adjust to. I think it
would be a mistake to jump in your new 10 without the training (most
insurers wouldn't let you).
I will probably do a few more hours of dual just before mine is ready to
fly - I am hoping it is just a couple of months now.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff - 90% done, 90% to go!
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 12:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
Hey guys,
I have spent the past day out in Oregon with Mike Seager and flying the
factory 10. I now have 3 hours in type and 15 landings. I have two more days
to fly with him and try and get my mind wrapped around this fast bird. I
know many of you have 4/6/7/8 time, and the 10 is not the same, but all I
can say is WOOHOO! Put the throttle in and it instantly leaps in the air,
blink and we are passing through 2k ft. We flew North and trued out over
200MPH,
did I say this plane is incredible?? 2.5 years and I am in the home stretch,
and I can not wait to fly my own, and finally report my first flight.
I know it sounds funny, but we chose to build the 10 without ever having
been in one, and all of expectations have been met and exceeded. For those
of you in the same boat as myself, 150 hrs in SPAM cans, I can not stress
the value of transition training and spending the time necessary to get used
to these planes. Things are happening so fast that it is difficult at first,
but after several hours with Mike I am starting to feel that with a couple
hundred more I might make an RV pilot. One thing that I find very funny is
that I have heard about P-factor and the need for right rudder, and thought
I knew about it, but the first time you put the throttle to 260 HP you
quickly realize what you had no clue about!!! Get the transition training so
you are ready.
While I have been out here I have met a couple of the guys and toured Vans
factory, too cool to say the least. But other than flying the 10, the most
memorable part of the trip is the hospitality of Ed Hayden, he helped me
around town, and took an afternoon to show me his project. What a plane, all
the bell's and whistles and then some! I can not wait to reciprocate when he
comes to town. It is the builder community that makes this so much fun and
Ed is a pillar of the community making us feel welcome!
THX
Dan Lloyd
N289DT RV10E Finally I can say finishing up!!!
Dan Lloyd
Director of Information Technology
Werner Company
93 Werner Road
Greenville, PA 16125
<mailto:lloyddr@wernerco.com> lloyddr@wernerco.com
1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
1-724-988-9230 cell
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
12:19 PM
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Should the aileron bellcrank bushing be lubricated? |
I'm in the process of installing the aileron bellcranks. Should they
be lubed in any way?
The parts include an AN4 bolt, going thru a brass bushing that goes thru
the 4130 steel bellcrank body.
It seems that a light application of something like lubriplate would be
a good thing, but I hear that some bearings can be damaged by
lubrication (by holding abrasive debris in place)..
I also have some unfinished steel surfaces at the ends of the bellcrank
shaft where I filed away the powdercoat. Seems to be that those
surfaces should be lightly lubed. I'm thinking that primer or paint
will be worn/wiped away very quickly.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Flying the RV10 for the first time |
Jesse,
I did not misunderstand your post and agreed that high time pilots with
recent experience in this type of airplane should not have a problem. That
said my son (a 4,000+ hr w/CFI11 and Falcon 900 driver) and I (lots of F33A
Bonanza, Piper Saratoga, and Cessna 180 time) flew one afternoon with Alex
(not required by the insurance company) for about two hours each. After
which we were both comfortable with the RV-10. Alex also told us we were
good to go. Had we not been comfortable or had Alex recommended more
training we would have stayed the night and done another four hours or
whatever it took to get signed off.
So IMHO the amount of transition training (if any, for high time pilots with
recent experience operating similar equipment) will depend on experience
level.
The problem even with high time pilots is that we get caught up in the
building process and our flight currency goes down hill. If this is the
case by all means get with someone and fly until it all comes back to you.
Don't let overconfidence get you - after all we are all above average
automobile drivers.
I flew the 40 hours off without bending anything. Hope I'm not confusing
skill with luck. The difference being skill is repeatable.
Mark
(N410MR)
>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
>Date: Wed, 2 May 2007 14:57:40 -0400
>
>I hope I wasn't understood to say that Transition Training is not a good
>idea. I think it is a great idea and very valuable. What I should have
>added is that the plane is not a difficult airplane to fly (no, I don't
>have
>a pilot's license, but that doesn't mean I can't fly or haven't flown). I
>do highly recommend transition training, whether official or otherwise. We
>had a guy here the other day from Ireland who wanted "Transition Training"
>because he is hopefully going to fly soon in the UK. He was a very
>low-time
>pilot and did quite well moving up from a Cessna 172.
>
>
>So, for the record:
>
>
>Low time pilots - Please get some kind of transition training, either
>official and loggable or otherwise with a competent instructor.
>
>High time pilot with lots of experience in this type of plane - Get
>transition training if it is possible, but you are not going to be in for a
>lot of surprises with this one.
>
>
>The thought of anybody taking my comments on this list as anything more
>than
>my opinion based on my experience (or someone else's experience if so
>stated) is a little scary.
>
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>Jesse Saint
>
>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>
>jesse@saintaviation.com
>
>www.saintaviation.com
>
>Cell: 352-427-0285
>
>Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
>Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 2:16 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
>
>
>You need to be careful on this, allot of people follow this list and read
>your recommendations on both safety of flight issues, as well as equipage
>for IFR, but they do not know you do not have a pilots license and do not
>have any IMC time, to make this type of comment could lead allot of low
>time
>pilots to believe that they can get by without training. When I got the
>transition training from Mike and let him review your comment he stated
>that
>even he, as the pilot with the "most RV time around" would not get into a
>new plane and fly when/if there is transition training available, even he
>would take several hours and learn the intricacies of the new plane.
>
>I can not stress the value of transition training enough, regardless of how
>much time you have, this is why most insurance agencies will not insure
>without dual time. We do not want to end up like the Lancair guys and have
>our insurance so high it is unaffordable. We are building plans valued
>north
>of $100k and in the scheme of things transition training is a very low cost
>item to help ensure a successful first flight.
>
>Dan Lloyd
>
>N289DT
>
>RV10E
>
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
>Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 10:17 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
>
>I guess that mainly depends on how much time and in how many other planes
>you have flown. My dad didn't get transition training, just took a demo
>flight at Van's (which is far from helpful in learning to fly the plane),
>and he had no problem (and now has over 400 safe hours in the -10). The
>plane really is not difficult to fly. I am not knocking transition
>training
>at all, but just offering a little more insight from experience.
>
>
>Do not archive.
>
>
>Jesse Saint
>
>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>
>jesse@saintaviation.com
>
>www.saintaviation.com
>
>Cell: 352-427-0285
>
>Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
>Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 8:38 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
>
>
>Dan,
>
>
>I can not agree with you more about the value of transition training. I
>trained a couple of weeks ago with Alex D in Texas. Yes there are a lot of
>new things us spam canners need to learn, unlearn, and adjust to. I think
>it
>would be a mistake to jump in your new 10 without the training (most
>insurers wouldn't let you).
>
> I will probably do a few more hours of dual just before mine is ready to
>fly - I am hoping it is just a couple of months now.
>
>
>John Testement
>jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
>40321
>
>Richmond, VA
>Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff - 90% done, 90% to go!
>
>do not archive
>
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
>Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 12:25 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
>
>Hey guys,
>I have spent the past day out in Oregon with Mike Seager and flying the
>factory 10. I now have 3 hours in type and 15 landings. I have two more
>days
>to fly with him and try and get my mind wrapped around this fast bird. I
>know many of you have 4/6/7/8 time, and the 10 is not the same, but all I
>can say is WOOHOO! Put the throttle in and it instantly leaps in the air,
>blink and we are passing through 2k ft. We flew North and trued out over
>200MPH,
>did I say this plane is incredible?? 2.5 years and I am in the home
>stretch,
>and I can not wait to fly my own, and finally report my first flight.
>I know it sounds funny, but we chose to build the 10 without ever having
>been in one, and all of expectations have been met and exceeded. For those
>of you in the same boat as myself, 150 hrs in SPAM cans, I can not stress
>the value of transition training and spending the time necessary to get
>used
>to these planes. Things are happening so fast that it is difficult at
>first,
>but after several hours with Mike I am starting to feel that with a couple
>hundred more I might make an RV pilot. One thing that I find very funny is
>that I have heard about P-factor and the need for right rudder, and thought
>I knew about it, but the first time you put the throttle to 260 HP you
>quickly realize what you had no clue about!!! Get the transition training
>so
>you are ready.
>
>While I have been out here I have met a couple of the guys and toured Vans
>factory, too cool to say the least. But other than flying the 10, the most
>memorable part of the trip is the hospitality of Ed Hayden, he helped me
>around town, and took an afternoon to show me his project. What a plane,
>all
>the bell's and whistles and then some! I can not wait to reciprocate when
>he
>comes to town. It is the builder community that makes this so much fun and
>Ed is a pillar of the community making us feel welcome!
>
>THX
>Dan Lloyd
>N289DT RV10E Finally I can say finishing up!!!
>
>
>Dan Lloyd
>Director of Information Technology
>Werner Company
>93 Werner Road
>Greenville, PA 16125
>
> <mailto:lloyddr@wernerco.com> lloyddr@wernerco.com
>1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
>1-724-988-9230 cell
>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
>/Navigator?RV10-List
>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>12:19 PM
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
>/Navigator?RV10-List
>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps.
http://maps.live.com/default.aspx?ss=Restaurants~Hotels~Amusement%20Park&cp=33.832922~-117.915659&style=r&lvl=13&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=1118863&encType=1&FORM=MGAC01
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Throttle Quadrant Documentation |
Thanks,
Richard Reynolds
On May 2, 2007, at 9:22 AM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
>
> 31Q is mainly mounting quad to sub-panel and 41Q is attaching quad.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Throttle Quadrant Documentation
> What is the drawing number of the RV-10 throttle quadrant
> installation? I have misplaced mine.
> Richard Reynolds
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Changes ( how often ) |
For what it is worth, I was told by my cylinder manufacturer buying
cheap oil and changing more often is the best choice. Of course, all
bets are off, I think, if you fly your plane very often. There is a
guy in our area with 3000 hrs on his engine and still ticking away.
He has accumulated the hours in a very short time and changes oil
every 25 hrs and oil/filter every other 25 hrs.
do not archive.
On May 2, 2007, at 1:55 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
> I wanted to ask the exact same question Randy so thanks. Right now
> I have been changing my oil every 25 hours but like I mentioned
> before, I am going to change to the ExxonElite semi-synthetic and
> would like to go from 25 - no more than 50 hours like Tim
> mentioned. Right now I am changing my oil every 25 days roughly
> and the guys around the airport say that I could definitely go to
> 50 hours with no problems even with straight 100 oil. So if I can
> go 35-50 hours (again depending if a bigger trip is coming up) and
> use semi-synthetic that would be great for the work load.
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 2, 2007 9:48:28 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
>
>
> I'm usually trying to do it a bit before 50 hours, usually 35-45 hours
> into a change. Depends on the situation. If I am flying a long trip,
> I try to get it done before the trip. Depending on who you talk to,
> you'll hear 25 to 50, with the 50 being only if you have a spin-on
> filter...which we pretty much all do. It will only be better to
> change
> it more often, but depending on your oil choice, it can cost a lot
> to stick to a strict 25. I do also do oil analysis at every change
> to get a trend going for monitoring.
>
> Clean oil is your friend though, so you're doing great if you keep
> up on the 25.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Rhonda Bewley wrote:
> > Randy ' every 25 hours, cut the filter and don=92t forget to check
the
> > finger screen.
> >
> >
> >
> > //Rhonda//
> >
> >
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> >
> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Randy DeBauw
> > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 02, 2007 11:14 AM
> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> > *Subject:* RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
> >
> >
> >
> > Just to keep on the oil subject how often are you changing your
> oil? Me
> > I change my oil every 25 hours. Anyone else? Randy 40006
> >
> > * *
> >
> > * *
> >
> > **
> >
> > **
> >
> > **
> >
> > **
> >
> > **
> >
> > **
> >
> > * *
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > 0-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
List
> ========================
> ========================
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Should the aileron bellcrank bushing be lubricated? |
I put lubriplate on mine. My parts did need some tweaking filing to get
a good fit and not bind. The bell crank area should be closed and not
in an area where one would worry a lot about dirt. Keep the lubriplate
off the threads so as not to mess up the proper torque.
Fred Williams
40515
fixin' to start the dreaded step 29. .........
Message 24
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| Subject: | Oil Changes ( how often ) |
His is probably an outlier, if the average engine overhaul time is just
that, an average. But there is no doubt whatsoever that changing the oil
frequently leads to longer engine life, and is perhaps the cheapest of the
preventative medicine options available. Clearly other factors are
involved, most of which are related either to heat or vibration (balancing).
I'll be using normal oil and frequent changes.
John (what the heck do I know about this anyway) Jessen
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
For what it is worth, I was told by my cylinder manufacturer buying cheap
oil and changing more often is the best choice. Of course, all bets are
off, I think, if you fly your plane very often. There is a guy in our area
with 3000 hrs on his engine and still ticking away. He has accumulated the
hours in a very short time and changes oil every 25 hrs and oil/filter every
other 25 hrs.
do not archive.
On May 2, 2007, at 1:55 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
I wanted to ask the exact same question Randy so thanks. Right now I have
been changing my oil every 25 hours but like I mentioned before, I am going
to change to the ExxonElite semi-synthetic and would like to go from 25 - no
more than 50 hours like Tim mentioned. Right now I am changing my oil every
25 days roughly and the guys around the airport say that I could definitely
go to 50 hours with no problems even with straight 100 oil. So if I can go
35-50 hours (again depending if a bigger trip is coming up) and use
semi-synthetic that would be great for the work load.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 2, 2007 9:48:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
I'm usually trying to do it a bit before 50 hours, usually 35-45 hours
into a change. Depends on the situation. If I am flying a long trip,
I try to get it done before the trip. Depending on who you talk to,
you'll hear 25 to 50, with the 50 being only if you have a spin-on
filter...which we pretty much all do. It will only be better to change
it more often, but depending on your oil choice, it can cost a lot
to stick to a strict 25. I do also do oil analysis at every change
to get a trend going for monitoring.
Clean oil is your friend though, so you're doing great if you keep
up on the 25.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rhonda Bewley wrote:
> Randy - every 25 hours, cut the filter and don't forget to check the
> finger screen.
>
>
>
> //Rhonda//
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy DeBauw
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 02, 2007 11:14 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
>
>
>
> Just to keep on the oil subject how often are you changing your oil? Me
> I change my oil every 25 hours. Anyone else? Randy 40006
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> 0-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
- The RV10-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space"> -->
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - NEW MATRONICS
WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space"> -->
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
Message 25
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| Subject: | G530W, Trutrak and GRT |
I recently started making successful GPS/LPA approaches and wanted to
offer the procedure for those who have this set up or are thinking
about it.
Since the 530W is new, there are no documentations on what to do and
how to set up the GPS to talk to IIVSGV. There is also no
documentations regarding the messages you get on the IIVSGV while
flying this type of approach. It took me many phone calls, several
approaches and much head-scratching to arrive at this procedure.
So here is what worked for me:
Wire up the three units as recommended by GRT including the ARINC
panel switch.
Power up the Garmin while holding the ENTER button. Once the unit is
up, rotate the big knob on the right hand side to get to the ARINC
page. Set up the output to 429 Gamma, the speed LOW and LABLES to On.
Step 1: While being Vectored to Final (full approach is also the
same in concept) set your GRT to Heading and Altitude Select and fly
as the controllers tell you. Once you have arrived at the final
altitude for the approach, set the ALT button on the IIVSGV to
altitude hold, which means pressing the ALT button once to see the
number 0 above it. This step is important as I will explain later.
Step 2: Throw the ARINC Panel Switch to control the IIVSGV from
G530W. Now, press the ALT button once more and verify that you have
GPSV-HLD in the window. This means that the altitude is being held
by G530W (I imagine).
Once the final approach course is intercepted, the autopilot will
show GPSV-ARM and it will follow the published course to FAF.
Once you pass the FAF, the auto pilot will show GPSV- and a DOWN
ARROW meaning that you are on your way to runway threshold.
If during Step 2, you do not press ALT button to get 0 in the ALT
window and simply switch over to G530 control, you will get GPSV-FLG
and the autopilot will do strange things. In my case, it sometimes
climbs and sometimes descends. This does not make sense to me and I
am hoping someone will verify this and post their findings.
Also, at this time, GRT does not show a glide-slope needle for LPV
approaches. This, in my opinion is a serious short coming as you
have no idea where you are on the glide-slope in real IFR weather.
GRT is working on it.
Hope this helps.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Electrical: Dynon and Lightspeed Ignition |
My Dynon 180 has a input called 'keep alive' which will keep the
internal
battery charged on the unit so that it doesn't run down and require
reloading the program. It needs to go directly to the battery bypassing
the
master contactor. Unfortunately, I did not run a wire for that under the
floor. Fortunately, the Lightspeed ignition needs to run a shielded
conductor back to the battery also. Unfortunately, I didn't run that
wire
either. Fortunately, that shielded wire will go to a circuit breaker so
I
can tie the Dynon keep alive circuit to that point, and I did leave some
wireways under the floor and on the sides with string in them so it will
not
require disassembling the fuse in order to add the wire. A heads-up for
Lightspeed and Dynon users.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Should the aileron bellcrank bushing be lubricated? |
That sounds about right to me. Thanks for the tip about the threads.
I just ran across an inventory problem - In bag 1255 I had only 2 of 4
pushrod ends for the torque tube assembly. I had marked it as 4 when I
inventoried the bag but it just took me 20mins to re-inventory the bag
before calling Vans. There's no way I would have taken the time
necessary during the initial inventory. Too many hard to identify rod
ends and bushings. Oh well.
Bill
do not archive
Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>
> I put lubriplate on mine. My parts did need some tweaking filing to
> get a good fit and not bind. The bell crank area should be closed
> and not in an area where one would worry a lot about dirt. Keep the
> lubriplate off the threads so as not to mess up the proper torque.
>
> Fred Williams
> 40515
> fixin' to start the dreaded step 29. .........
>
>
Message 28
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Question for anyone to answer: What is your best guess of the fuselage
weight with the cabin top and tail cone on but no interior or avionics? No
gear or engine mount either ( no finish kit yet ). Moving to the hangar
this weekend an trying to recruit enough help to load this bad boy. Best
guess is two guys each side and one on the tail would do it but the more the
merrier. Using a flat trailer. Suggestions?........john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 29
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I did it with 4 people. Back, front, side, side. And a fifth to move the
platform I used to build it on.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 6:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage weight
Question for anyone to answer: What is your best guess of the fuselage
weight with the cabin top and tail cone on but no interior or avionics? No
gear or engine mount either ( no finish kit yet ). Moving to the hangar
this weekend an trying to recruit enough help to load this bad boy. Best
guess is two guys each side and one on the tail would do it but the more the
merrier. Using a flat trailer. Suggestions?........john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage weight |
I just moved mine about a month ago. I had made a set of wheels and bolted them
to the wing spars. My 16 year old sons and I rolled it onto a 18 foot trailer
with 4 foot ramps. I don't have scales but I can pick up the front by myself.
The CG in this configuration is somewhere around the front part of the rear
seats.
I unloaded it from the trailer by myself at the airport. The wheels were great.
Picture is attached.
These are coming off in the next week or so for the real legs!
Jim C
N312F
40192
Do Not Archive
Message 31
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4 people. One on each gear leg, one on tail & one backup for where needed.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Sent: 5/2/2007 8:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage weight
Question for anyone to answer: What is your best guess of the fuselage
weight with the cabin top and tail cone on but no interior or avionics? No
gear or engine mount either ( no finish kit yet ). Moving to the hangar
this weekend an trying to recruit enough help to load this bad boy. Best
guess is two guys each side and one on the tail would do it but the more the
merrier. Using a flat trailer. Suggestions?........john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 32
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| Subject: | Electrical: Dynon and Lightspeed Ignition |
If you have the internal battery, don't use keep alive at all. I can explain why
later if you want.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Sent: 5/2/2007 6:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Electrical: Dynon and Lightspeed Ignition
My Dynon 180 has a input called 'keep alive' which will keep the internal
battery charged on the unit so that it doesn't run down and require
reloading the program. It needs to go directly to the battery bypassing the
master contactor. Unfortunately, I did not run a wire for that under the
floor. Fortunately, the Lightspeed ignition needs to run a shielded
conductor back to the battery also. Unfortunately, I didn't run that wire
either. Fortunately, that shielded wire will go to a circuit breaker so I
can tie the Dynon keep alive circuit to that point, and I did leave some
wireways under the floor and on the sides with string in them so it will not
require disassembling the fuse in order to add the wire. A heads-up for
Lightspeed and Dynon users.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 33
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| Subject: | section 43, transparencies. |
Acknowledged with no acceptable answer.
Watch for a solution at OSH '07.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: section 43, transparencies.
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
A joggle is where a molded part indents in to receive another part so
that
parts make a lap joint. In this email I am speaking of the window
joggles on
the cabin top.
I finished the sizing of the rear windows and I noticed that both the
right
and left window joggles on the cabin top for the rear windows, at the
forward edge, mid way up, are both too shallow to allow the plexiglass
to
fit flush to the outer skin of the cabin top. It is about 1/8" too
shallow.
If too deep, shims are used to build it up.
The question is, are people finding this area of the cabin top needs to
be
built up once the doors are installed, because the door stands proud or
should I sand some material out of the joggle(It is solid fiberglass) so
that the plexiglass sits flush?
Why is this fiberglass part so poorly produced? It is as though the
window
cutouts(Joggles) were scribed by a kindergardener. Keeping the window
edge
trimming distance consistent is very difficult when nothing makes
consistent
arcs or staight lines. This part is pretty shameful.
Thanks,
JOhn
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Flying the RV10 for the first time |
Transition training is valuable and a prudent investment whether with
Alex or Mike. The good news is that wise insurance underwriters provide
a financial incentive to acquire such skills. In thirty years I have
never seen a competent pilot who believed there is no inherent value in
the investment. I have seen a lot of pilot's who believed they didn't
need it or that accidents would happen to them. In the DPE circles we
called them "Teflon pilots". Problems never stuck to them. Our
aviation club CAA created, in the 1960's, a program called Flight
Profile which the FAA mandated as Bi-ennial Flight Reviews for all US
pilots. A second set of eyes, opinions and techniques can always lead
to improvement or reinforcement of well learned fundamentals.
Make the investment. Your family deserves nothing less.
Good Job at Pilot judgment Dan.
John Cox - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 11:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
You need to be careful on this, allot of people follow this list and
read your recommendations on both safety of flight issues, as well as
equipage for IFR, but they do not know you do not have a pilots license
and do not have any IMC time, to make this type of comment could lead
allot of low time pilots to believe that they can get by without
training. When I got the transition training from Mike and let him
review your comment he stated that even he, as the pilot with the "most
RV time around" would not get into a new plane and fly when/if there is
transition training available, even he would take several hours and
learn the intricacies of the new plane.
I can not stress the value of transition training enough, regardless of
how much time you have, this is why most insurance agencies will not
insure without dual time. We do not want to end up like the Lancair guys
and have our insurance so high it is unaffordable. We are building plans
valued north of $100k and in the scheme of things transition training is
a very low cost item to help ensure a successful first flight.
Dan Lloyd
N289DT
RV10E
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 10:17 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
I guess that mainly depends on how much time and in how many other
planes you have flown. My dad didn't get transition training, just took
a demo flight at Van's (which is far from helpful in learning to fly the
plane), and he had no problem (and now has over 400 safe hours in the
-10). The plane really is not difficult to fly. I am not knocking
transition training at all, but just offering a little more insight from
experience.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 8:38 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
Dan,
I can not agree with you more about the value of transition training. I
trained a couple of weeks ago with Alex D in Texas. Yes there are a lot
of new things us spam canners need to learn, unlearn, and adjust to. I
think it would be a mistake to jump in your new 10 without the training
(most insurers wouldn't let you).
I will probably do a few more hours of dual just before mine is ready
to fly - I am hoping it is just a couple of months now.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff - 90% done, 90% to go!
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 12:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flying the RV10 for the first time
Hey guys,
I have spent the past day out in Oregon with Mike Seager and flying the
factory 10. I now have 3 hours in type and 15 landings. I have two more
days to fly with him and try and get my mind wrapped around this fast
bird. I know many of you have 4/6/7/8 time, and the 10 is not the same,
but all I can say is WOOHOO! Put the throttle in and it instantly leaps
in the air, blink and we are passing through 2k ft. We flew North and
trued out over 200MPH,
did I say this plane is incredible?? 2.5 years and I am in the home
stretch, and I can not wait to fly my own, and finally report my first
flight.
I know it sounds funny, but we chose to build the 10 without ever having
been in one, and all of expectations have been met and exceeded. For
those of you in the same boat as myself, 150 hrs in SPAM cans, I can not
stress the value of transition training and spending the time necessary
to get used to these planes. Things are happening so fast that it is
difficult at first, but after several hours with Mike I am starting to
feel that with a couple hundred more I might make an RV pilot. One thing
that I find very funny is that I have heard about P-factor and the need
for right rudder, and thought I knew about it, but the first time you
put the throttle to 260 HP you quickly realize what you had no clue
about!!! Get the transition training so you are ready.
While I have been out here I have met a couple of the guys and toured
Vans factory, too cool to say the least. But other than flying the 10,
the most memorable part of the trip is the hospitality of Ed Hayden, he
helped me around town, and took an afternoon to show me his project.
What a plane, all the bell's and whistles and then some! I can not wait
to reciprocate when he comes to town. It is the builder community that
makes this so much fun and Ed is a pillar of the community making us
feel welcome!
THX
Dan Lloyd
N289DT RV10E Finally I can say finishing up!!!
Dan Lloyd
Director of Information Technology
Werner Company
93 Werner Road
Greenville, PA 16125
lloyddr@wernerco.com <mailto:lloyddr@wernerco.com>
1-724-588-2000 *2408 work
1-724-988-9230 cell
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
12:19 PM
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage weight |
Jim, I want to make something along the same lines. my QB will be here
Fri or Sat . do you have a sketch or just deminsions and material used.
would appreciate any help. Thanks
John Cram
40569 emp complete in the hanger and waiting
----- Original Message -----
From: jim@CombsFive.Com<mailto:jim@CombsFive.Com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage weight
I just moved mine about a month ago. I had made a set of wheels and
bolted them to the wing spars. My 16 year old sons and I rolled it onto
a 18 foot trailer with 4 foot ramps. I don't have scales but I can pick
up the front by myself. The CG in this configuration is somewhere
around the front part of the rear seats.
I unloaded it from the trailer by myself at the airport. The wheels
were great.
Picture is attached.
These are coming off in the next week or so for the real legs!
Jim C
N312F
40192
Do Not Archive
Message 36
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| Subject: | Oil Changes ( how often ) |
Rotax Cert. Training did a financial comparison between 25 & 50 hours
with rebuilds on scores of engines. Oil which keeps contaminates "in
suspension" is the issue. Leaded fuel which finds its way into the oil
is fascinating. Moisture from lack of use (the acids they create) and
hangar storage can be near fatal. Fly often .... Fly Safe.
Always change the filter, always inspect the screening material, always
carry an adequate supply of oil for cooling. Changing the oil allows a
set of eyes to check for exhaust cracks, loose wires, oil leaks, chafing
or broken baffle material.
I heartily second Rhonda's and the team from Barrett's recommendation.
You can pay sooner or pay much more later. The piece of mind....
Priceless.
John - 25
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rhonda Bewley
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
Randy - every 25 hours, cut the filter and don't forget to check the
finger screen.
Rhonda
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 11:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Changes ( how often )
Just to keep on the oil subject how often are you changing your oil? Me
I change my oil every 25 hours. Anyone else? Randy 40006
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage weight |
I will put something together.
Jim C
Do Not Archive
===========================================================
From: "John Cram" <johncram@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage weight
Jim, I want to make something along the same lines. my QB will be here Fri or Sat
. do you have a sketch or just deminsions and material used. would appreciate
any help. Thanks
John Cram
40569 emp complete in the hanger and waiting
----- Original Message -----
From: jim@CombsFive.Com<mailto:jim@CombsFive.Com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage weight
I just moved mine about a month ago. I had made a set of wheels and bolted them
to the wing spars. My 16 year old sons and I rolled it onto a 18 foot trailer
with 4 foot ramps. I don't have scales but I can pick up the front by myself.
The CG in this configuration is somewhere around the front part of the
rear seats.
I unloaded it from the trailer by myself at the airport. The wheels were great.
Picture is attached.
These are coming off in the next week or so for the real legs!
Jim C
N312F
40192
Do Not Archive
===========================================================
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