Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:48 AM - Re: Oil Separator (Wayne Edgerton)
2. 03:48 AM - Re: Oil Separator (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
3. 04:13 AM - Re: Oil Separator (Tim Olson)
4. 04:49 AM - Re: Oil Separator (Carl Froehlich)
5. 05:04 AM - Re: Oil Separator (Werner Schneider)
6. 06:18 AM - Re: Oil Separator (Jesse Saint)
7. 07:47 AM - Re: Tru-Trak pitch servo (Vern W. Smith)
8. 07:49 AM - Re: Shipping companies and insurance (Albert Gardner)
9. 08:40 AM - Re: Tru-Trak pitch servo (Jesse Saint)
10. 08:46 AM - Re: Oil Separator (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
11. 08:52 AM - Re: Shipping companies and insurance (Vern W. Smith)
12. 09:41 AM - Re: Tru-Trak pitch servo (John Ackerman)
13. 09:59 AM - Re: Oil Separator (Bill DeRouchey)
14. 10:43 AM - Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? (MauleDriver)
15. 10:58 AM - Pitch Servo (John Hasbrouck)
16. 11:06 AM - Re: Pitch Servo (Randy DeBauw)
17. 11:09 AM - Re: Pitch Servo (Rene Felker)
18. 11:17 AM - Re: Pitch Servo (Mark Ritter)
19. 11:29 AM - Re: Pitch Servo (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
20. 01:14 PM - Re: Pitch Servo (Deems Davis)
21. 01:35 PM - Re: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? (Vern W. Smith)
22. 01:35 PM - Re: Shipping companies and insurance (KiloPapa)
23. 01:52 PM - Re: Pitch Servo (Tim Olson)
24. 02:01 PM - Re: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
25. 02:04 PM - Re: Shipping companies and insurance (Kelly McMullen)
26. 02:49 PM - Re: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? (Jesse Saint)
27. 03:08 PM - Re: 14" Spinner - was James Cowling (PJ Seipel)
28. 03:10 PM - Re: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? (MauleDriver)
29. 03:39 PM - Re: 14" Spinner - was James Cowling (Deems Davis)
30. 04:03 PM - nose wheel cocked in flight (Randy DeBauw)
31. 04:15 PM - Re: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? (Chris)
32. 04:33 PM - Re: Pitch Servo (John Hasbrouck)
33. 06:35 PM - Re: nose wheel cocked in flight (Tim Olson)
34. 07:02 PM - Re: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? (Vern W. Smith)
35. 07:25 PM - Re: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? (Vern W. Smith)
36. 07:35 PM - Re: nose wheel cocked in flight (DejaVu)
37. 09:06 PM - Crack in WD-1017 (Rene)
38. 10:34 PM - Re: nose wheel cocked in flight (ddddsp1@juno.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
I have a close A&P friend who's worked on my plane and he told me that I
would be wasting my money on an oil separator. He seems to feel they
don't really work that well.
For what ever it's worth.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
getting close
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
Our piper 235 is powered by an O-540, for years we had lots of grease/oil on
the belly...at our annual a couple of years ago, I (under supervision) removed
the breather tube and cleaned it out very well...soaking in a solvent tank
and using a long bottle brush to scrub the thing...one would not believe the
junk that was on the side walls. The aircraft still has a small amount of oil
from time to time on the belly but on the whole we are keeping a lot more oil in
the case and a lot less on the belly.
I don't know the config of most other planes that have blow by problems but
if one keeps the breather tube clean it probably will help rather than the O/A
Separator's...IMHO. But this is just a personal observation and your mileage
may vary.
Patrick
do not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
My take on the separators is that while they may definitely keep the
belly clean, by throwing that waste back into the engine, I just
couldn't bring myself to buy one. The reason is, along with the
misted oil that's being trapped is all the acids and moisture, and
I've just been left with the thought that I'd be returning THAT
stuff to the engine as well. So I decided to save the money on
the part, but spend it on the oil and the belly cleaner. I'm not
saying the believers are wrong...I think the things have a good side
to them, but it's tough to get me to risk more engine wear and corrosion
for the benefits, even if it weren't likely. I have a hard enough
time getting my oil temps up to that 185 mark where moisture boils
off well...I don't need it dumped back IN.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> I have a close A&P friend who's worked on my plane and he told me that I
> would be wasting my money on an oil separator. He seems to feel they
> don't really work that well.
>
> For what ever it's worth.
>
> Wayne Edgerton #40336
>
> getting close
>
Message 4
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I use the relatively cheap separator ($42) from ACS
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php in my
RV-8A. No complaints.
I do not however return the drain line to the engine. I mounted a pint can
to collect the goo. I end up with about a half inch in the can each annual.
I direct the output of the separator to just above one of the exhaust pipes.
Some recommend cutting open the back of this separator to add a SS scrubbing
pad to increase the surface area for condensation.
My main problem with oil on the belly came from a small, hard to find oil
leak on the prop governor mounting plate. It took several tries to find it,
and three attempts at fixing it.
Keep in mind the separator will not help the normal exhaust film on the
belly.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (320 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil Separator
My take on the separators is that while they may definitely keep the
belly clean, by throwing that waste back into the engine, I just
couldn't bring myself to buy one. The reason is, along with the
misted oil that's being trapped is all the acids and moisture, and
I've just been left with the thought that I'd be returning THAT
stuff to the engine as well. So I decided to save the money on
the part, but spend it on the oil and the belly cleaner. I'm not
saying the believers are wrong...I think the things have a good side
to them, but it's tough to get me to risk more engine wear and corrosion
for the benefits, even if it weren't likely. I have a hard enough
time getting my oil temps up to that 185 mark where moisture boils
off well...I don't need it dumped back IN.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> I have a close A&P friend who's worked on my plane and he told me that I
> would be wasting my money on an oil separator. He seems to feel they
> don't really work that well.
>
> For what ever it's worth.
>
> Wayne Edgerton #40336
>
> getting close
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
Andair does have a new separator with an additional condensate "trap"
Looks real nice
Werner
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> My take on the separators is that while they may definitely keep the
> belly clean, by throwing that waste back into the engine, I just
> couldn't bring myself to buy one. The reason is, along with the
> misted oil that's being trapped is all the acids and moisture, and
> I've just been left with the thought that I'd be returning THAT
> stuff to the engine as well. So I decided to save the money on
> the part, but spend it on the oil and the belly cleaner. I'm not
> saying the believers are wrong...I think the things have a good side
> to them, but it's tough to get me to risk more engine wear and corrosion
> for the benefits, even if it weren't likely. I have a hard enough
> time getting my oil temps up to that 185 mark where moisture boils
> off well...I don't need it dumped back IN.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Wayne Edgerton wrote:
>> I have a close A&P friend who's worked on my plane and he told me
>> that I would be wasting my money on an oil separator. He seems to
>> feel they don't really work that well.
>>
>> For what ever it's worth.
>>
>> Wayne Edgerton #40336
>>
>> getting close
>>
>
>
Message 6
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I have used a cheap ACS (or Van's) one as someone else mentioned, but it
doesn't have a return. It is just mounted between the breather port and the
breather tube and I think it gravity feeds back into the engine when it
stops. It seems to have helped a little, but not measurably. I also
terminate the tube on the exhaust stack to try to burn off any oil that gets
out there to keep it off the belly. I think most belly oil comes from leaks
elsewhere if you keep the oil in the sump below 9 or 10 Qts. It seems to
blow off down to 9 or so pretty quickly. We usually add a Qt when it gets
down to 8.5. If you put 12 in, you will blow a LOT of it off very quickly
in our experience.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 11:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Separator
What recommendations do folks have for the different models of Air/Oil
Separators? Airflow Performance just came out with one that claims to be
"designed for the IO-540".
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt@aurora.aero
Message 7
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| Subject: | Tru-Trak pitch servo |
John,
On option is to buy just the servo mount from Trutrak. It costs about
$50.
Vern Smith (fuselage #324)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 6:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tru-Trak pitch servo
<jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Quick question for those with the pitch servos from Tru Trak for the
-10.
Is the hole in the elevator bellcrank sized for an AN-3 bolt? Plans on
Tru
Trak site give a hole size of .200 if I'm reading it correctly. Doesn't
make much sense. Want to drill hole now while installing elevators but
don't have the servo yet....john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 8
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| Subject: | Shipping companies and insurance |
My engine came from Indiana and I used Freightquote.com and insurance
obtained through them. It was considerably less expensive and it turned out
that it came on one of the carriers that gave me a much higher price when I
contacted them directly. Things went well but apparently Freightquote.com
has their webpage oriented toward the shipper arranging things instead of
the receiver so it was a little awkward for me to set things up but went
well and I'm happy and less poor that could have been.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
PS: Just passed through Pearblossom last weekend on a trip from Yuma to
Chowchilla. Stopped in at Mojave airport to look around at Scaled Composites
layout as well as the Rotary Rocket on display.
-----Original Message-----
For those who have shipped an engine: What freight company
did you use, were you happy with them, and did you insure it
through the shipper or another source?
Thanks,
Kevin
40494
Pearblossom, CA
Message 9
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| Subject: | Tru-Trak pitch servo |
Getting the bracket won't really help much with hole placement or size. I
would recommend getting the drawing from the TT website and making the hole
based on that. The mount just goes where there are existing screws/bolts
and it might even be best to mount the servo to it before installing it (if
it is possible to mount the mount with the servo on it.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vern W. Smith
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tru-Trak pitch servo
John,
On option is to buy just the servo mount from Trutrak. It costs about
$50.
Vern Smith (fuselage #324)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 6:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tru-Trak pitch servo
<jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Quick question for those with the pitch servos from Tru Trak for the
-10.
Is the hole in the elevator bellcrank sized for an AN-3 bolt? Plans on
Tru
Trak site give a hole size of .200 if I'm reading it correctly. Doesn't
make much sense. Want to drill hole now while installing elevators but
don't have the servo yet....john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
--
10:34 AM
Message 10
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All of this talk about greasy belly's, just another reason to go Subaru,
no noticeable oil burn between oil changes...or so I have heard, my
engine will be shipping this week and I will be able to give a first
flight report in the next month or so and let you all know how clean the
belly is!
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 9:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Separator
I have used a cheap ACS (or Van's) one as someone else mentioned, but it
doesn't have a return. It is just mounted between the breather port and
the breather tube and I think it gravity feeds back into the engine when
it stops. It seems to have helped a little, but not measurably. I also
terminate the tube on the exhaust stack to try to burn off any oil that
gets out there to keep it off the belly. I think most belly oil comes
from leaks elsewhere if you keep the oil in the sump below 9 or 10 Qts.
It seems to blow off down to 9 or so pretty quickly. We usually add a
Qt when it gets down to 8.5. If you put 12 in, you will blow a LOT of
it off very quickly in our experience.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 11:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Separator
What recommendations do folks have for the different models of Air/Oil
Separators? Airflow Performance just came out with one that claims to
be "designed for the IO-540".
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt@aurora.aero
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Shipping companies and insurance |
I've used Roadway on two different occasions. I've been happy with them
and the shipments were insured through them. Keep in mind standard
shipments are only insured for a maximum of $25 per pound. For the
additional coverage needed trucking companies charge ~.30 to .40 cents
per $100 of the value.
To save money it may be possible to get a one time rider on your home
insurance or builders insurance for the shipment. On other money saving
tip is look into picking the engine up at the trucking terminal. This
saves home delivery charge and possibly a "lift gate charge".
Also determine where the FOB (freight on board) point is. If it is FOB
origin then you are completely responsibly for the shipment, however if
it is FOB destination then it is the sellers responsibility.
Upon receiving (before you sign for it) carefully check the crate for
any damage. This includes damage to the bottom corners just in case it
was dropped. Open up the crate if they will let you (some large
terminals don't allow for this but you can ask in advance.) If there is
any damage note it on the bill of lading. The phrase "Subject to
inspection" can be added to your signature if there is any physical
damage to the crate. Report any damage the same day!
Vern (#324)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
kilopapa@antelecom.net
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 9:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Shipping companies and insurance
For those who have shipped an engine: What freight company
did you use, were you happy with them, and did you insure it
through the shipper or another source?
Thanks,
Kevin
40494
Pearblossom, CA
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Tru-Trak pitch servo |
John, it gets to be a little bit of a monkey puzzle putting all that
together - not bad, but it requires patience, and probably several
tries to get the assembly order right. All you get for instructions
is a couple photos printer on an ink-jet, but that's adequate if a
bit frustrating.
You'll have to take it all off later to insert the elevator pushrods
coming back from the control stick area, anyway. I'd let it ride
until then if I were doing it over.
If you want to drill the hole now, be sure not to drill it bigger
than #12, and drill carefully.
That's the major concern.
You may want to drill it "just" undersize and finish drill # 12.
Any slop in the system contributes to hunting and poor autopilot
performance, I'm told.
Do not archive.
John Ackerman
40458 QB fiberglass top work beginning.
> vo
>
> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> Quick question for those with the pitch servos from Tru Trak for the
> -10.
> Is the hole in the elevator bellcrank sized for an AN-3 bolt?
> Plans on
> Tru
> Trak site give a hole size of .200 if I'm reading it correctly.
> Doesn't
>
> make much sense. Want to drill hole now while installing elevators
> but
> don't have the servo yet....john
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>
> --
> 10:34 AM
>
>
Message 13
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Lots of good comments on this subject by everyone. I installed a "certified" unit
on my Piper Archer and it made no change to the oily belly or oil consumption
rate (seperated oil routed back to case).
My RV-10 belly stays fairly clean and I have not cleaned it yet (80 hrs). I keep
oil level at 10qts and routed breather exit close to the muffler and ended
tube 1/4" above muffler. I believe this exit location away from fast air flow
and close to the hottest end of the exhaust pipe lets the drops hit the hot tube
and provides more burn time as the residue migrates down and out.
I have this unproven theory that the drops are flying into the airstream and
end up on the belly rather than gently dropping onto the exhaust pipe and burning.
Perhaps the breather exit geometry accounts for the different experiences.
If I were to do this again I would squeeze the end of the breather tube into
an oval shape with the long axis of the oval parallel with the exhaust pipe to
increase the probability that the drops will fall onto the top center of the
exhaust pipe.
Bill DeRouchey
WTD Aviation Technology
N939SB, flying
Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com> wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } I have used a cheap ACS
(or Vans) one as someone else mentioned, but it doesnt have a return. It is
just mounted between the breather port and the breather tube and I think it
gravity feeds back into the engine when it stops. It seems to have helped a little,
but not measurably. I also terminate the tube on the exhaust stack to
try to burn off any oil that gets out there to keep it off the belly. I think
most belly oil comes from leaks elsewhere if you keep the oil in the sump below
9 or 10 Qts. It seems to blow off down to 9 or so pretty quickly. We usually
add a Qt when it gets down to 8.5. If you put 12 in, you will blow a LOT
of it off very quickly in our experience.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 11:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Separator
What recommendations do folks have for the different models of Air/Oil Separators?
Airflow Performance just came out with one that claims to be designed for
the IO-540.
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt@aurora.aero
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? |
I'm still a ways from the fuselage but looking ahead, is the RV10
harness from Vans something I should plan on? What did you do?
Just curious at this point.
Bill "just ordered TT servos and trying to get QB wings ready for bottom
sheet rivet" Watson
Message 15
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Everyone,
Thanks for all of the replys! Talked to Tru-Trak this morning and
this is what I found out. First, the pdf on the website for the -10
pitch servo is WRONG. It is the older version. How about that for
keeping things up to date? According to Zach at TT the hole for the
elevator bellcrank is to be 2.5" up from the center bearing AND .25" aft
as was mentioned in an earlier post. Hole size is for an AN-3 bolt
which should be a #12 drill. ( Zach said of the hole size, " we try to
keep it around .200", about a #8" ) Well Zach's way off on that one.
Tim posted earlier that the later versions of the torque multiplier
worked OK with the original hole location. Zach said it should work at
that location as long as there is full control movement. So here's my
dilema. I drilled the hole assuming that the drawing on the web site
was correct. I only drilled a guide hole (#30) though. According to
Tim this location works fine and if there is plenty of movement in the
servo to allow full control movement I'll leave it where it is. Does
.25" make that much difference? If it's going to be a problem later
I'll just make a new bellcrank. BTW: The servo bracket for the pitch
servo is included in the fuselage kit from Vans....John
Message 16
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John, I as well as Tim installed the update kit later after the hole was
drilled. It works fine. I would move forward. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitch Servo
Everyone,
Thanks for all of the replys! Talked to Tru-Trak this morning and
this is what I found out. First, the pdf on the website for the -10
pitch servo is WRONG. It is the older version. How about that for
keeping things up to date? According to Zach at TT the hole for the
elevator bellcrank is to be 2.5" up from the center bearing AND .25" aft
as was mentioned in an earlier post. Hole size is for an AN-3 bolt
which should be a #12 drill. ( Zach said of the hole size, " we try to
keep it around .200", about a #8" ) Well Zach's way off on that one.
Tim posted earlier that the later versions of the torque multiplier
worked OK with the original hole location. Zach said it should work at
that location as long as there is full control movement. So here's my
dilema. I drilled the hole assuming that the drawing on the web site
was correct. I only drilled a guide hole (#30) though. According to
Tim this location works fine and if there is plenty of movement in the
servo to allow full control movement I'll leave it where it is. Does
.25" make that much difference? If it's going to be a problem later
I'll just make a new bellcrank. BTW: The servo bracket for the pitch
servo is included in the fuselage kit from Vans....John
Message 17
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One note, if I remember right the servo bracket that Vans provided did not
work for me. I had received another one with my servo that did work. I got
mine with my servo from Stein...
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 11:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitch Servo
Everyone,
Thanks for all of the replys! Talked to Tru-Trak this morning and this
is what I found out. First, the pdf on the website for the -10 pitch servo
is WRONG. It is the older version. How about that for keeping things up to
date? According to Zach at TT the hole for the elevator bellcrank is to be
2.5" up from the center bearing AND .25" aft as was mentioned in an earlier
post. Hole size is for an AN-3 bolt which should be a #12 drill. ( Zach
said of the hole size, " we try to keep it around .200", about a #8" ) Well
Zach's way off on that one. Tim posted earlier that the later versions of
the torque multiplier worked OK with the original hole location. Zach said
it should work at that location as long as there is full control movement.
So here's my dilema. I drilled the hole assuming that the drawing on the
web site was correct. I only drilled a guide hole (#30) though. According
to Tim this location works fine and if there is plenty of movement in the
servo to allow full control movement I'll leave it where it is. Does .25"
make that much difference? If it's going to be a problem later I'll just
make a new bellcrank. BTW: The servo bracket for the pitch servo is
included in the fuselage kit from Vans....John
Message 18
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I also used the original hole and it works great.
>From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>To: "RV LIST" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Pitch Servo Date: Tue, 8 May 2007 13:57:00 -0400
>
>Everyone,
> Thanks for all of the replys! Talked to Tru-Trak this morning and this
>is what I found out. First, the pdf on the website for the -10 pitch servo
>is WRONG. It is the older version. How about that for keeping things up
>to date? According to Zach at TT the hole for the elevator bellcrank is to
>be 2.5" up from the center bearing AND .25" aft as was mentioned in an
>earlier post. Hole size is for an AN-3 bolt which should be a #12 drill.
>( Zach said of the hole size, " we try to keep it around .200", about a #8"
>) Well Zach's way off on that one. Tim posted earlier that the later
>versions of the torque multiplier worked OK with the original hole
>location. Zach said it should work at that location as long as there is
>full control movement. So here's my dilema. I drilled the hole assuming
>that the drawing on the web site was correct. I only drilled a guide hole
>(#30) though. According to Tim this location works fine and if there is
>plenty of movement in the servo to allow full control movement I'll leave
>it where it is. Does .25" make that much difference? If it's going to be
>a problem later I'll just make a new bellcrank. BTW: The servo bracket
>for the pitch servo is included in the fuselage kit from Vans....John
_________________________________________________________________
Like the way Microsoft Office Outlook works? Youll love Windows Live
Hotmail.
Message 19
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The bracket in the kit is not the same one as is need for the new Torque
multiplier, they sent me a new bracket when I got my servo's from Stein
and I used the original bracket to make a parking brake mount. I can
take pictures of the mount and servo if you want, or I think Deem's has
some excellent photo's on his site.
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 1:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitch Servo
Everyone,
Thanks for all of the replys! Talked to Tru-Trak this morning and
this is what I found out. First, the pdf on the website for the -10
pitch servo is WRONG. It is the older version. How about that for
keeping things up to date? According to Zach at TT the hole for the
elevator bellcrank is to be 2.5" up from the center bearing AND .25" aft
as was mentioned in an earlier post. Hole size is for an AN-3 bolt
which should be a #12 drill. ( Zach said of the hole size, " we try to
keep it around .200", about a #8" ) Well Zach's way off on that one.
Tim posted earlier that the later versions of the torque multiplier
worked OK with the original hole location. Zach said it should work at
that location as long as there is full control movement. So here's my
dilema. I drilled the hole assuming that the drawing on the web site
was correct. I only drilled a guide hole (#30) though. According to
Tim this location works fine and if there is plenty of movement in the
servo to allow full control movement I'll leave it where it is. Does
.25" make that much difference? If it's going to be a problem later
I'll just make a new bellcrank. BTW: The servo bracket for the pitch
servo is included in the fuselage kit from Vans....John
Message 20
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Here's the link to several pic's in this album.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Wiring/slides/DSC03208.html
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
> The bracket in the kit is not the same one as is need for the new
> Torque multiplier, they sent me a new bracket when I got my servo's
> from Stein and I used the original bracket to make a parking brake
> mount. I can take pictures of the mount and servo if you want, or I
> think Deem's has some excellent photo's on his site.
> Dan
> N289DT RV10E
> *
> *
Message 21
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| Subject: | Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? |
Maybe yes, maybe no. Van's harness is for a basic VFR plane. Tim Olsen's
website has a PDF file of the instructions and a schematic that come
with it. It's in the builders section with the plans. I think most
people are not using this harness because it doesn't meet their needs.
If you are just on the wings, one option is to run just the wing wiring.
Start with what you want in the wings some possibilities are: strobes,
nav lights, pitot heat, aileron trim, auto pilot servo, landing lights,
stall warning, AOA kit, wing tip antennas (nav, com, marker beacon). At
this point some run conduit, other use snap rings or a combination.
William Curtis has some nice pictures and schematics on his site.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ And by all means check out the matronics
archives. If you go with conduit Vans' sells corrugated stuff (it can be
a pain to pull it through the ribs), other people have used light
sprinkler water line. Somewhere on Van's site is a wing rib diagram
showing different possible locations for wire runs. John Cox had a
marvelous idea of running a length of weed wacker cord with any wire run
so that it is easier to pull an extra wire in the future.
My EAA Tech. consoler didn't like seeing the strobe wires ran in the
same conduit as electrical wiring so I pulled it separately through snap
rings and then ran one conduit for antenna wire and another for
electrical wiring with a spacing of greater than 6 inch between the
runs. As far as supplies there are a number of venders. SteinAir has
been very helpful.
This is probably more info than you want:)
Hope it's helps,
Vern Smith (#324 tail cone attachment)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it?
I'm still a ways from the fuselage but looking ahead, is the RV10
harness from Vans something I should plan on? What did you do?
Just curious at this point.
Bill "just ordered TT servos and trying to get QB wings ready for bottom
sheet rivet" Watson
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Shipping companies and insurance |
To all who have responded so far:
Thanks for the info and advice. Albert Gardner noted Freightquote.com and
they had a good quote thru Roadway however the stock insurance coverage was
$10,000 max. A search for third-party shipping/freight insurance found
Ramon, Inc http://www.ramonins-usa.com who quoted 25 per $100 for $70 on
$28,000. Learning as I go.
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
----- Original Message -----
My engine came from Indiana and I used Freightquote.com and insurance
obtained through them. It was considerably less expensive and it turned out
that it came on one of the carriers that gave me a much higher price when I
contacted them directly. Things went well but apparently Freightquote.com
has their webpage oriented toward the shipper arranging things instead of
the receiver so it was a little awkward for me to set things up but went
well and I'm happy and less poor that could have been.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
>
> I've used Roadway on two different occasions. I've been happy with them
> and the shipments were insured through them. Keep in mind standard
> shipments are only insured for a maximum of $25 per pound. For the
> additional coverage needed trucking companies charge ~.30 to .40 cents
> per $100 of the value.
>
> To save money it may be possible to get a one time rider on your home
> insurance or builders insurance for the shipment. On other money saving
> tip is look into picking the engine up at the trucking terminal. This
> saves home delivery charge and possibly a "lift gate charge".
>
> Also determine where the FOB (freight on board) point is. If it is FOB
> origin then you are completely responsibly for the shipment, however if
> it is FOB destination then it is the sellers responsibility.
>
> Upon receiving (before you sign for it) carefully check the crate for
> any damage. This includes damage to the bottom corners just in case it
> was dropped. Open up the crate if they will let you (some large
> terminals don't allow for this but you can ask in advance.) If there is
> any damage note it on the bill of lading. The phrase "Subject to
> inspection" can be added to your signature if there is any physical
> damage to the crate. Report any damage the same day!
>
> Vern (#324)
Message 23
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|
Yes, there is a revised bracket that you can get from TruTrak that
is different than at least the earlier kits got with the tail kit.
It just slightly moves the servo location.
Regarding John's question about the torque enhancer and the hole
location....it's hard for me to guarantee it'll work for you
no matter which hole you end up choosing, because there are now
3 variations of the pitch servo link that I know of...the one I'm
using now is the 3rd, and it's a wheel with a track kind of
arrangement. I've always used the original hole and it has worked
perfectly for me. But, I don't doubt that the other location could
probably work too, and it may even be more idea without me knowing
it. In the end, you can probably make either spot work, and you
could even split the difference and put the hole in the middle. I
really doubt the hole location is that precise...but this isn't
a recommendation to stray from plans...just pointing out that it
probably isn't that critical.
I guess if it were me, I'd wait to final drill until you get ALL
of the parts and are ready to hook it up permanently, AFTER you
have your elevator on and everything else. Then you can get to
the part where you hook up the link, work the thing into full
pitch travel both directions while holding the torque enhancer close,
and just see if both extremes would work. If so, just drill away.
Don't sweat it too much...worst case, you just make a new bellcrank
and that part can't be too much money.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rene Felker wrote:
> One note, if I remember right the servo bracket that Vans provided did
> not work for me. I had received another one with my servo that did
> work. I got mine with my servo from Stein..
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? |
I purchased the wiring kit from Van's. It was great to get all the pieces
and parts in one kit with instructions; in that sense it was a great place to
start when I wasn't quite sure about many of the details. I made lots of
changes and added many circuits and features. Now that I know how it goes
together, if I was to build a second plane, I would design the electrical system
from
scratch... but that's the thing about experience, you don't get it until
just after you need it.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 5/8/2007 1:55:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
MauleDriver@nc.rr.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I'm still a ways from the fuselage but looking ahead, is the RV10
harness from Vans something I should plan on? What did you do?
Just curious at this point.
Bill "just ordered TT servos and trying to get QB wings ready for bottom
sheet rivet" Watson
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Shipping companies and insurance |
Might also be worth talking to Tony Partain. His trucks generally haul
cars and similar stuff on the back hauls to Oregon after delivering RV
parts to all y'all.
On 5/8/07, KiloPapa <kilopapa@antelecom.net> wrote:
>
> To all who have responded so far:
>
> Thanks for the info and advice. Albert Gardner noted Freightquote.com and
> they had a good quote thru Roadway however the stock insurance coverage was
> $10,000 max. A search for third-party shipping/freight insurance found
> Ramon, Inc http://www.ramonins-usa.com who quoted 25 per $100 for $70 on
> $28,000. Learning as I go.
>
> Kevin
> 40494
> tail/empennage
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> My engine came from Indiana and I used Freightquote.com and insurance
> obtained through them. It was considerably less expensive and it turned out
> that it came on one of the carriers that gave me a much higher price when I
> contacted them directly. Things went well but apparently Freightquote.com
> has their webpage oriented toward the shipper arranging things instead of
> the receiver so it was a little awkward for me to set things up but went
> well and I'm happy and less poor that could have been.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
> >
> > I've used Roadway on two different occasions. I've been happy with them
> > and the shipments were insured through them. Keep in mind standard
> > shipments are only insured for a maximum of $25 per pound. For the
> > additional coverage needed trucking companies charge ~.30 to .40 cents
> > per $100 of the value.
> >
> > To save money it may be possible to get a one time rider on your home
> > insurance or builders insurance for the shipment. On other money saving
> > tip is look into picking the engine up at the trucking terminal. This
> > saves home delivery charge and possibly a "lift gate charge".
> >
> > Also determine where the FOB (freight on board) point is. If it is FOB
> > origin then you are completely responsibly for the shipment, however if
> > it is FOB destination then it is the sellers responsibility.
> >
> > Upon receiving (before you sign for it) carefully check the crate for
> > any damage. This includes damage to the bottom corners just in case it
> > was dropped. Open up the crate if they will let you (some large
> > terminals don't allow for this but you can ask in advance.) If there is
> > any damage note it on the bill of lading. The phrase "Subject to
> > inspection" can be added to your signature if there is any physical
> > damage to the crate. Report any damage the same day!
> >
> > Vern (#324)
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? |
Here here!
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it?
I purchased the wiring kit from Van's. It was great to get all the pieces
and parts in one kit with instructions; in that sense it was a great place
to start when I wasn't quite sure about many of the details. I made lots of
changes and added many circuits and features. Now that I know how it goes
together, if I was to build a second plane, I would design the electrical
system from scratch... but that's the thing about experience, you don't get
it until just after you need it.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 5/8/2007 1:55:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
MauleDriver@nc.rr.com writes:
I'm still a ways from the fuselage but looking ahead, is the RV10
harness from Vans something I should plan on? What did you do?
Just curious at this point.
Bill "just ordered TT servos and trying to get QB wings ready for bottom
sheet rivet" Watson
_____
See what's free at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List:14" Spinner - was James Cowling |
Thanks for the info Ben. If anyone hears of an option better than the
$1700 that Hartzell wants, I'd sure love to hear about it.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Ben Westfall wrote:
>
> I contacted them a while back to inquire about using it with the hartzell
> that Van's sells and they said it would not work. The hartzell uses a back
> plate aft of the propeller and their 14" spinner is designed to with a
> mounting plate in front of the propeller.
>
> -Ben
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of PJ Seipel
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 2:43 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List:14" Spinner - was James Cowling
>
>
> Anyone looked at the UHS fiberglass spinners that Aircraft Spruce
> sells? http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/uhs.php
> Looks like they have a 14" spinner. Don't know if it would work, but at
> $174 it might be worth a try.
>
> PJ
> RV-10 #40032
>
> evmeg@snowcrest.net wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Really!....I had no idea! thanks for the heads up on that one....Goes to
>> show you that the rule holds true about deviatiating from the plans...
>> small change=BIG price difference. There must be a reasonable solution to
>> this one. Seems too simple to me.
>> Evan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
>
>>
>>
>>> I'm interested in the James Cowl. I sent a note to them however about
>>>
> the
>
>>> 14" spinner required with this cowl. The Hartzell spinner, at $1400,
>>>
> cost
>
>>> more than the cowl itself. I asked them if they could do a Van's like
>>>
> 14"
>
>>> fiberglass spinner kit to replace the ridiculously overpriced Hartzell
>>> spinner. They said no.
>>>
>>> Carl Froehlich
>>> RV-8A (320 hrs)
>>> RV-10 (wings)
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>>> evmeg@snowcrest.net
>>> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 11:53 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowling
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Anybody using the James Cowl on their 10 yet? Besides looking a bit
>>> sexier, I am wondering if gives the added benefits of the 2 place
>>> versions. On the smaller airplanes it adds a few knots of speed by
>>> reducing cooling drag. On the 4 place it may also help with the hot
>>>
> tunnel
>
>>> syndrome as there seems to be some merit in the argument that the airflow
>>> through the cowl is a major part of the problem. At $1200.00 it does not
>>> seem to expensive if it solves problems.....I dont know how much the
>>> standard cowling costs. There is obviously an offset in cost if I just
>>> dont order that with my finish kit. So.....anybody tried it yet?
>>> Cheers...
>>> Evan
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------------------
>>> This message was sent using SnowCrest WebMail.
>>> http://www.snowcrest.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------------------
>> This message was sent using SnowCrest WebMail.
>> http://www.snowcrest.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? |
More info than I want? Right!
I had come to the same conclusion, that is, the Van's harness is
designed from a basic VFR perspective and yet, it's probably a good
start even for an IFR setup. I'm finding that accepting a bit of
"wastage" is a good way to get up the learning curve at times.
You've confirmed I'm hitting all the right resources because I've
managed to see most of the references below. (Still don't know what a
snap ring is yet). I'm installing the Gretz pitot, aileron trim,
Duckworth lights (cutting holes in the wings is so much fun I'm doing it
twice - thanks for HFreight saw Tim). I bought the Vans lighting kit but
returned everything except the tail lights. Waiting on an LED kit from
Jeff. I've ordered the Trutrak servos from Stein. I'm skipping the
AOA probe. I'm thinking archer nav attenna, don't know about comm but
want it in the fuse. William's wiring layout in the wings is becoming
my model and his wiring schematics/plan is in my notebook. Connectors
are a big ? Need to buy some basic crimpers, wire and termination stuff.
Slowing getting my head into a electrical plan/schematic but I'm getting
a headache.
Thanks.
Bill "real glad I've got a QB wing because there is more than enought
drill/deburr/dimple/priming to do with what's left" Watson
Vern W. Smith wrote:
>
> Maybe yes, maybe no. Van's harness is for a basic VFR plane. Tim Olsen's
> website has a PDF file of the instructions and a schematic that come
> with it. It's in the builders section with the plans. I think most
> people are not using this harness because it doesn't meet their needs.
>
> If you are just on the wings, one option is to run just the wing wiring.
> Start with what you want in the wings some possibilities are: strobes,
> nav lights, pitot heat, aileron trim, auto pilot servo, landing lights,
> stall warning, AOA kit, wing tip antennas (nav, com, marker beacon). At
> this point some run conduit, other use snap rings or a combination.
> William Curtis has some nice pictures and schematics on his site.
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ And by all means check out the matronics
> archives. If you go with conduit Vans' sells corrugated stuff (it can be
> a pain to pull it through the ribs), other people have used light
> sprinkler water line. Somewhere on Van's site is a wing rib diagram
> showing different possible locations for wire runs. John Cox had a
> marvelous idea of running a length of weed wacker cord with any wire run
> so that it is easier to pull an extra wire in the future.
>
> My EAA Tech. consoler didn't like seeing the strobe wires ran in the
> same conduit as electrical wiring so I pulled it separately through snap
> rings and then ran one conduit for antenna wire and another for
> electrical wiring with a spacing of greater than 6 inch between the
> runs. As far as supplies there are a number of venders. SteinAir has
> been very helpful.
>
> This is probably more info than you want:)
> Hope it's helps,
>
> Vern Smith (#324 tail cone attachment)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:43 AM
> To: RV10-List Digest Server
> Subject: RV10-List: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it?
>
>
> I'm still a ways from the fuselage but looking ahead, is the RV10
> harness from Vans something I should plan on? What did you do?
>
> Just curious at this point.
>
> Bill "just ordered TT servos and trying to get QB wings ready for bottom
>
> sheet rivet" Watson
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List:14" Spinner - was James Cowling |
Aero Composites offers a 14" spinner. For $1000. I'm not sure if it will
fit a prop other than their's. The one I have spinner backplate is
machined for mounting studs that are integral to their prop hub. Give
them a call and find out for sure.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
PJ Seipel wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info Ben. If anyone hears of an option better than the
> $1700 that Hartzell wants, I'd sure love to hear about it.
>
> PJ Seipel
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | nose wheel cocked in flight |
Just one thing that some of you may not have experienced yet. I have on
2 occasions had the nose wheel cock a little on takeoff. It has been
related to dealing with a crosswind and the nose wheel touching just
before takeoff. I try to get the nose wheel off early and carry it till
lift off but sometimes with a gust of wind or loss of wind the nose
wheel will touch just a little and get moved off of straight. I checked
the tightness of the nut and all is fine. This past weekend I mentioned
it to Van and he said it has happen to him in flight. We both agreed it
is annoying because if you have the rudder trimmed to fly nice and true
and you end up holding left rudder in to keep from crabbing through the
air. He said it happened on a long trip before to him. Anyone else.
Van said they looked for a reason like the washers had some wear that
may have caused a notch but they were fine. Anyone else had this happen?
Randy 006
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? |
Why did your tech counselor not want the stobe wires in the same conduit?
Chris Lucas
#40072 Fuselage top
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern@teclabsinc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 4:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it?
>
>>
> My EAA Tech. consoler didn't like seeing the strobe wires ran in the
> same conduit as electrical wiring so I pulled it separately through snap
> rings and then ran one conduit for antenna wire and another for
> electrical wiring with a spacing of greater than 6 inch between the
> runs. As far as supplies there are a number of venders. SteinAir has
> been very helpful.
>
> This is probably more info than you want:)
> Hope it's helps,
>
> Vern Smith (#324 tail cone attachment)
>
>
>
Message 32
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Thanks all for the advice. From what I've seen on Deems' and Tim's sites
this thing should fly ( pun intended ) as is. And Tim's right, a new
bellcrank is short money and very little time to make up. Maybe I could
exchange the old bracket for new bellcrank parts. Hmmmmmmmm. Did I mention
I'm cheap? Another example of the wealth of info this board
provides....john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: nose wheel cocked in flight |
I'm not sure if this is the same thing, but I have photos like if you
look carefully at the 3-ship formation from the LOE trip, you can
see my nosewheel is slightly swung to the right side in flight.
It's something that's been noticed before on other -10's too.
Not sure if it's just at certain angles of attack, or power settings,
or if it's induced by rudder usage. (in that photo while flying
formation I'm sure that at times it wasn't a perfectly centered ball
while lining up for the shot)
What I don't believe is true in my case is that it affects how much
rudder I hold in flight. I think it moves around enough with the
airflow to find it's stable position. The rudder is pretty consistent
in how much I need from flight to flight.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> Just one thing that some of you may not have experienced yet. I have on
> 2 occasions had the nose wheel cock a little on takeoff. It has been
> related to dealing with a crosswind and the nose wheel touching just
> before takeoff. I try to get the nose wheel off early and carry it till
> lift off but sometimes with a gust of wind or loss of wind the nose
> wheel will touch just a little and get moved off of straight. I checked
> the tightness of the nut and all is fine. This past weekend I mentioned
> it to Van and he said it has happen to him in flight. We both agreed it
> is annoying because if you have the rudder trimmed to fly nice and true
> and you end up holding left rudder in to keep from crabbing through the
> air. He said it happened on a long trip before to him. Anyone else.
> Van said they looked for a reason like the washers had some wear that
> may have caused a notch but they were fine. Anyone else had this
> happen? Randy 006
>
> *
Message 34
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| Subject: | Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? |
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Message 35
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| Subject: | Wiring Harness from Vans - should I plan to get it? |
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Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: nose wheel cocked in flight |
I had a long 2-legged trip about a month ago where I had to hold right
rudder to center the ball on the first leg. However the 2nd leg required
left rudder. Hmmm... I scratched my head and thought a quarter-size tear in
the nose gear glass induced by the lineman using too tall of a chalk block
somehow contributed to the difference in the 2nd leg. I normally have to
hold right rudder in cruise. One other time I noticed the sound of the nose
wheel touching ground on landing was odd. It's easy enough to have a chase
verify this though.
Anh
N591VU-63hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: nose wheel cocked in flight
>
>
>
> I'm not sure if this is the same thing, but I have photos like if you
> look carefully at the 3-ship formation from the LOE trip, you can
> see my nosewheel is slightly swung to the right side in flight.
> It's something that's been noticed before on other -10's too.
> Not sure if it's just at certain angles of attack, or power settings,
> or if it's induced by rudder usage. (in that photo while flying
> formation I'm sure that at times it wasn't a perfectly centered ball
> while lining up for the shot)
>
> What I don't believe is true in my case is that it affects how much
> rudder I hold in flight. I think it moves around enough with the
> airflow to find it's stable position. The rudder is pretty consistent
> in how much I need from flight to flight.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Randy DeBauw wrote:
>> Just one thing that some of you may not have experienced yet. I have on 2
>> occasions had the nose wheel cock a little on takeoff. It has been
>> related to dealing with a crosswind and the nose wheel touching just
>> before takeoff. I try to get the nose wheel off early and carry it till
>> lift off but sometimes with a gust of wind or loss of wind the nose wheel
>> will touch just a little and get moved off of straight. I checked the
>> tightness of the nut and all is fine. This past weekend I mentioned it to
>> Van and he said it has happen to him in flight. We both agreed it is
>> annoying because if you have the rudder trimmed to fly nice and true and
>> you end up holding left rudder in to keep from crabbing through the air.
>> He said it happened on a long trip before to him. Anyone else. Van said
>> they looked for a reason like the washers had some wear that may have
>> caused a notch but they were fine. Anyone else had this happen? Randy
>> 006
>>
>> *
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Crack in WD-1017 |
A couple of weeks ago while I was working on my nose wheel fairing, I
discovered a crack in my WD-1017 (see pictures). I had inspected the 1017
before I installed it last fall and other than pushing the airplane in and
out of the hanger once, it has just sat there. You might want to inspect
yours. I returned it to Vans and they have provided me a new one.
After removing the 1017 to send it back, it looked like the left flange was
angled out slightly.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: nose wheel cocked in flight |
Just a brief note to say THANKS to Randy and Cheryl tonite once we got i
nto Portland for T Training with Mike S. this week. If you have not se
een Randy's RV 10 you need too..he did a great job building it. What is
most amazing is he PAVED the way for the rest of us and had no one else
s to look at for help. Randy gave us a ride then treated us to a BBQ w
ith his new GRILL at the hanger. What a great couple to have in the RV
family.
Thanks again,
DEAN 40449
<html><P>Just a brief note to say THANKS to Randy and Cheryl tonite once
we got into Portland for T Training with Mike S. this week.
If you have not seeen Randy's RV 10 you need too..he did a great job bu
ilding it. What is most amazing is he PAVED the way for the rest o
f us and had no one elses to look at for help. Ran
dy gave us a ride then treated us to a BBQ with his new GRILL at&nb
sp;the hanger. What a great couple to have in the RV family.
</P>
<P>Thanks again,</P>
<P>DEAN 40449</P>
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