Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:45 AM - Re: How to get them to lower gas prices (Eric_Kallio)
2. 04:51 AM - Re: firewall forward kit (Jesse Saint)
3. 05:28 AM - Re: Batterydied (Kelly McMullen)
4. 06:09 AM - Re: Establishing gross weight (Kelly McMullen)
5. 08:45 AM - Re: Wanna see something cool? (Dave Leikam)
6. 08:48 AM - Re: Fw: How to get them to lower gas prices (Les Kearney)
7. 08:49 AM - Re: firewall forward kit (Larry Rosen)
8. 09:49 AM - Re: firewall forward kit (Jay Rowe)
9. 11:30 AM - Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips (James Hein)
10. 11:49 AM - Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips (Byron Gillespie)
11. 12:13 PM - Re: HEADER TANK (Dave Saylor)
12. 01:00 PM - Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips (Tim Olson)
13. 01:05 PM - Tailcone question (Wiley)
14. 01:34 PM - Re: Tailcone question (James Hein)
15. 01:59 PM - Re: Tailcone question (Tim Olson)
16. 03:00 PM - Re: HEADER TANK (Randy)
17. 03:38 PM - Re: HEADER TANK (John Jessen)
18. 03:51 PM - Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips (Michael Kraus)
19. 04:05 PM - Motortopia (John Testement RM)
20. 04:23 PM - Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips (John Testement)
21. 04:55 PM - Re: HEADER TANK (Tim C)
22. 05:37 PM - Re: Motortopia (Larry Rosen)
23. 06:05 PM - Re: Motortopia (Tim Olson)
24. 07:01 PM - Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips (linn Walters)
25. 07:50 PM - Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips (Dave Leikam)
26. 08:07 PM - Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips (linn Walters)
27. 08:18 PM - Re: Motortopia (ddddsp1@juno.com)
28. 09:03 PM - Oil Cooling Update (Scott Schmidt)
29. 09:03 PM - Re: Motortopia (Tim Olson)
30. 09:57 PM - My panel is on its way.....the end is near (Rene)
31. 10:09 PM - [Fw: Oil Cooling Update] (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: How to get them to lower gas prices |
Gentlemen, lets remember a few things about the supplies of gasoline, and who to
point the finger at. First, I am a pilot for one of the helicopter companies
that contract to the oil companies in the Gulf of Mexico and I live in Baton
Rouge, Louisiana, so I deal with this regularly. Having said this, Hurricane Katrina's
effects are still a major factor in the US ability to refine oil. Our
refineries down here are still not up to full production of pre Katrina levels.
Part of this is the inflexibility of the environmentalist groups and the EPA.
We can't build new refineries because every action is being blocked by Greenpeace
or the EPA. The refineries that we had can't be repaired becuse again the
environmentalists say that the damage to the environement would be too great
if another hurricane occured. This country is stuck in this "not in my backyard"
mentality. If we want cheap gas then we need to push our government officials
to open up drilling off of Florida, Virginia, California, and Alaska. We
also need to build the refineries throughout the country to support our demand.
The oil is out there, just get your congressmen to turn a deaf ear to the environmentalists,
and let us go get it.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113823#113823
Message 2
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| Subject: | firewall forward kit |
The Mattituck engine doesn't come with an alternator, does it? None of ours have.
Is that new?
I believe the current exhaust still has the longer tubes.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Leather interior kit for the RV-10 -
www.saintaviation.com/interior
-----Original Message-----
From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr@adelphia.net>
Sent: 5/19/2007 11:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: firewall forward kit
I'm just now ordering my fwf kit. Since I'm getting my engine from Mattituck I'll
not be needing Van's alternator. Is there any thing else in that kit that
I should consider not getting? And does the current Vetterman's exhaust system
have the longer tubes versus the earlier models? Thanks, Jay Rowe 40301
Message 3
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It isn't a myth, just out-dated information, assuming you aren't using a
rubber case battery..not many of those left around. A myth implies it
never was true, this has a basis in fact, just old and no longer applicable.
jdalton77 wrote:
>
> Rick,
>
> I'cve recently done some research on this subject (we put up a solar
> and windmill project at out house) and I found out that concrete
> energy sucking is a myth.
>
> But leaving them sitting around for a long time anywhere will hurt them.
>
> Jeff Dalton
> Wings
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick" <ricksked@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 3:36 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Batterydied
>
>
>>
>> One quick note on batteries....make sure you don't leave them on bare
>> concrete...least that's what I've always been told, sucks the energy
>> right out of them. I heard it a long time ago...it may be a youngs
>> wives tale.
>>
>> Rick S.
>> 40185
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Establishing gross weight |
I've flown or examined most models of 172's up until the late '70s.
There are very few gross wt changes and a lot of structural changes,
some visible, some less obvious, but I doubt any of the gross wt changes
were made with no structural changes. C model upped it by 50 lbs with
shorter and stronger gear. D model had swept tail, changed fuel tanks,
upped it to 2300. No change after that for 20 years, until 1980 went to
2400 after they went to tubular gear and different variant of 160 hp
engine, different vertical fin, etc. Cessna changed the landing gear
at least 4 times after they made it a nose dragger that I know about.
They changed the wing struts at least a couple times. The tail changed
at least a couple times. Also complicating the picture is that the
plane was certified under CAR3 and many later changes were certified
under Part 23. So sum total there was less than a 10% change in gross wt
over more than 50 years of production, with over 20 variants produced,
all having some structural changes, with horsepower changes from 6 cyl
145 hp to 6 cyl 175 hp, to 4 cyl 150 hp to 4 cy 160hp to 4 cyl 180 hp to
six cyl 195 hp and 210 hp, and you think those gross wt changes were
just paper calculations? It also was produced under two different type
certificates, the second originating with the 175 that became P172, then
Cutlass and other variants with gross as high as 2550. So where is there
a year that gross changed with NO structural change? How do you know
there wasn't a change?
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
> What I am talking about is the changes in the gross weight without
> changing/ modifying the airframe. Research the history of the aircraft
> and you will see many gross weight changes without any modification to
> the airframe, rather extensive testing was accomplished and the gross
> weight was modified. This is what I am referring to in this situation,
> if the builder is going to change the gross weight than a test period is
> required to verify it is safe, and as the builder they are the ones that
> need to determine how much and what testing is necessary to be okay with
> the change.
> Dan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
> McMullen
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 8:25 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Establishing gross weight
>
>
>
> Not considering it took more than fifteen years to get there, totally
> different landing gear, different engine, different fuselage. Remember
> it started as the C170 in 1948, so there are a lot more changes than
> you realize. Almost nothing from 1969 on is original.
>
> On 5/18/07, Lloyd, Daniel R. <LloydDR@wernerco.com> wrote:
>
>>
> <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>> Not true for all of the weight changes in the history of the 172, but
>> like you said 200 lbs is not a major increase?
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
>> McMullen
>> Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 8:36 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Establishing gross weight
>>
>>
>>
>> The C172 increases came with gear changes and later engine change. It
>> went from 2200 to 2300, and eventually I think 2400...not a major
>> increase. Also, the airframe was designed as a taildragger, so gear
>> and gearbox had to be designed stronger. Those weren't paper changes
>> but fully tested, and there were structural changes. Different gear
>> legs, different struts, etc.
>>
>> On 5/18/07, Lloyd, Daniel R. <LloydDR@wernerco.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The venerable Cessna 172 has had its max weight increased several
>>>
>> times
>>
>>> during its life, equaling several hundred pounds and without
>>>
>> structural
>>
>>> modification. This was accomplished by continued testing and
>>>
> analyzing
>
>> the
>>
>>> results.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wanna see something cool? |
MessageLooks very nice and clean Dan! Have you lit it up yet?
Dave Leikam
40496
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Lloyd, Daniel R.
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 6:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wanna see something cool?
She is on her own 3 legs and wearing her Eggenfellner engine proudly!!
Dan N289DT RV10E
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fw: How to get them to lower gas prices |
Hi Tim
I am in Edmonton. Where are you located?
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - Lost in the fuse..
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim C
Sent: May-19-07 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fw: How to get them to lower gas prices
I'm in Alberta Canada, where they make the stuff...Some places here's it's
now 1.25 liter ($5.68 gallon imp - $4.73 U.S gal) up to 1.30 on Westcoast
Tim
> Lucky your not any where else in the world. I wish we had your prices
here.
>
> regards Chris
>
> do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: firewall forward kit |
The standard FWF kit from Vans comes with an automobile style
alternater. I would recommend using the 60 A plane Power from Vans, 60
a from B&C or 70 A Plane Power alternator.
Others have replaced the Vans hoses with firesleeved hoses. William
Curtis has a good write up on one of his web pages. Read it here
<http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/20Engine/hose.html>
Fire wall penetrations should also be thought about. Although nothing
in the FWF kit to replace, consider stainless steel fire wall
penetrations like EPM.AV <http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html> and /
or spherical metal grommets
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1179675964-90-9&browse=airframe&product=one_eye>
Larry Rosen
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> The Mattituck engine doesn't come with an alternator, does it? None of ours
have. Is that new?
>
> I believe the current exhaust still has the longer tubes.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> www.saintaviation.com
> 352-427-0285
>
> Leather interior kit for the RV-10 -
> www.saintaviation.com/interior
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr@adelphia.net>
> To: "matronics" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: 5/19/2007 11:13 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: firewall forward kit
>
> I'm just now ordering my fwf kit. Since I'm getting my engine from Mattituck
I'll not be needing Van's alternator. Is there any thing else in that kit that
I should consider not getting? And does the current Vetterman's exhaust system
have the longer tubes versus the earlier models? Thanks, Jay Rowe 40301
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: firewall forward kit |
Jesse: Mattituck tries to sell you their Nisson battery...at least it is in
their package price. But you can change it to whatever you want, which I
have done. Lots of the list folks have recommended either B & C or Plane
Power...I've gone with the latter only because it is a little cheaper and
has internal regulation. On Larry's recommendation I will call Vetteman's
directly abouy the length of the exhaust pipes in relation to the "tunnel
heating" and performance. If I hear anything earthshaking I will post it.
Thaink, Jay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 7:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: firewall forward kit
>
> The Mattituck engine doesn't come with an alternator, does it? None of
> ours have. Is that new?
>
> I believe the current exhaust still has the longer tubes.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> www.saintaviation.com
> 352-427-0285
>
> Leather interior kit for the RV-10 -
> www.saintaviation.com/interior
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr@adelphia.net>
> To: "matronics" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: 5/19/2007 11:13 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: firewall forward kit
>
> I'm just now ordering my fwf kit. Since I'm getting my engine from
> Mattituck I'll not be needing Van's alternator. Is there any thing else in
> that kit that I should consider not getting? And does the current
> Vetterman's exhaust system have the longer tubes versus the earlier
> models? Thanks, Jay Rowe 40301
>
>
> --
> 7:54 AM
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips |
When you work on the fiberglass wingtips, how do you get it aligned
correctly so that the aft end of the tips are even with the ailerons
when everything is installed?
I can see where a slight misalignment would cause the aft end to vary
quite a bit.
How did you do it? Any other suggestions on how to do the wingtips would
be appreciated!
-Jim 40384 (Waiting out the monsoon to work on the tips outside the house)
As a side question: Why fiberglass? Why not injection molded plastic? It
would cost less and be more precise for non-structural parts... Hmmm.....?
Message 10
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| Subject: | Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips |
Hi Jim:
I just went through the same issue last month. The first wing tip went
on great no issues. The second one - after getting it all #40 drilled -
was off by 1/4" at the tip. After scratching my head a day or two and
fretting about the postings from guys that had to slit the tips and
re-fiberglass...I undid everything and found that if I wiggled the tip a
bit on the top side and got it sitting a bit better in the wing, the
1/4" was gone...
Long story short, it is definitely easy to get the movement that you
mentioned. After glassing up the holes on the one side, I made sure that
the flaps and aileron were in proper alignment and taped the aft edge in
place and made sure that there was no movement as I #40 drilled the
holes up from the leading edge. This time it aligned up fine. Just make
sure that you can make it fit straight before drilling and then
alternate concave to convex side and cleko every hole as you go to the
trailing side. Look often as you go to make sure that there is no
movement and that fiberglass doesn't build up between the wing and tip.
Hopefully everything will align up fine.
Byron - N253RV assigned (beginning year two of finishing and firewall
forward)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 2:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips
When you work on the fiberglass wingtips, how do you get it aligned
correctly so that the aft end of the tips are even with the ailerons
when everything is installed?
I can see where a slight misalignment would cause the aft end to vary
quite a bit.
How did you do it? Any other suggestions on how to do the wingtips would
be appreciated!
-Jim 40384 (Waiting out the monsoon to work on the tips outside the
house)
As a side question: Why fiberglass? Why not injection molded plastic? It
would cost less and be more precise for non-structural parts...
Hmmm.....?
Message 11
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One of sthe best header tank systems I've seen in a high wing is like a
GlaStar uses: tubular cans in each line below the wing root and above the
fuel pump.
do not archive
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips |
I left it in the wing cradle, hooked up the flaps and ailerons, aligned
the aileron to the flap when the flap was full-up, and then made
the wingtip match. One thing that you will want to do is to (picture
this as if your wing is in a cradle leading edge down) push DOWN on
the trailing edge, and when you push it down tight, the wingtip will
expand itself into place to match the curve of the wing. Then while
holding pressure, have someone drill and cleco the holes. That way you
get the holes all drilled with the trailing edge lined up, and the tip
is expanded all over to fit the wing contour. That should make it
come out ok.
Don't know why, on the plastic, except cutting and molding some of the
other mods in would be easier in glass I guess.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
James Hein wrote:
>
> When you work on the fiberglass wingtips, how do you get it aligned
> correctly so that the aft end of the tips are even with the ailerons
> when everything is installed?
> I can see where a slight misalignment would cause the aft end to vary
> quite a bit.
> How did you do it? Any other suggestions on how to do the wingtips would
> be appreciated!
>
> -Jim 40384 (Waiting out the monsoon to work on the tips outside the house)
>
> As a side question: Why fiberglass? Why not injection molded plastic? It
> would cost less and be more precise for non-structural parts... Hmmm.....?
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Tailcone question |
New builder here who's been learning tons from this group. Today I got in a hurry
and blew it with my unibit. Not sure what to do.
On Pg 10-3 step 5 I drilled one of my holes to 11/16 instead of 5/8 on accident.
I can't figure out the purpose of the holes. Is it where the rudder cable will
pas through and if so is being a little oversized critical? Not sure if I should
replase the bulkhead or not.
Thanks,
Dave
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113869#113869
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone question |
Dave,
Welcome!
You made it further than I did before I blew it! Here's what your
options are:
1. Order a new part from Van's (Mostly depends on how you'll 'feel'
about it)
2. Email Van's to confirm that it won't be a big deal (use a larger snap
bushing). I always get confirmation from Van's if I need to
modify/repair a part.
3. Take a scrap piece of aluminum, and rivet a 'patch' over the hole,
then use the unibit to make then enlarge a hole in the center to the
right size.
The part's cheap, so if it were myself, I'd just hang it up on the "Wall
of fame" and order a new one. There's plenty to do while waiting for
shipping.
-Jim 40384 (I HATE fiberglass!)
Wiley wrote:
>
>New builder here who's been learning tons from this group. Today I got in a hurry
and blew it with my unibit. Not sure what to do.
>
>On Pg 10-3 step 5 I drilled one of my holes to 11/16 instead of 5/8 on accident.
I can't figure out the purpose of the holes. Is it where the rudder cable will
pas through and if so is being a little oversized critical? Not sure if I
should replase the bulkhead or not.
>
>Thanks,
>Dave
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113869#113869
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone question |
If you mean the 5/8" holes for the rudder cables to pass through,
I think I'd just try to find the next size snap bushing. You
could ask Van's...(be emotionally prepared first. ;) )
But I doubt that particular hole is that big of a deal. Like
Jim said, you could always patch it, but it's just a hole for
the cable to pass through from as far as I can remember.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
James Hein wrote:
>
> Dave,
> Welcome!
>
> You made it further than I did before I blew it! Here's what your
> options are:
> 1. Order a new part from Van's (Mostly depends on how you'll 'feel'
> about it)
> 2. Email Van's to confirm that it won't be a big deal (use a larger snap
> bushing). I always get confirmation from Van's if I need to
> modify/repair a part.
> 3. Take a scrap piece of aluminum, and rivet a 'patch' over the hole,
> then use the unibit to make then enlarge a hole in the center to the
> right size.
>
> The part's cheap, so if it were myself, I'd just hang it up on the "Wall
> of fame" and order a new one. There's plenty to do while waiting for
> shipping.
>
> -Jim 40384 (I HATE fiberglass!)
>
>
> Wiley wrote:
>
>>
>> New builder here who's been learning tons from this group. Today I got
>> in a hurry and blew it with my unibit. Not sure what to do.
>> On Pg 10-3 step 5 I drilled one of my holes to 11/16 instead of 5/8 on
>> accident. I can't figure out the purpose of the holes. Is it where the
>> rudder cable will pas through and if so is being a little oversized
>> critical? Not sure if I should replase the bulkhead or not.
>> Thanks,
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113869#113869
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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I have contacted Glasair aviation for more info on their system.
Is there a Glastar group on the internet or a site that may have info on the
fuel system ?
Thanks Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave@AirCraftersLLC.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 2:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HEADER TANK
>
> One of sthe best header tank systems I've seen in a high wing is like a
> GlaStar uses: tubular cans in each line below the wing root and above the
> fuel pump.
>
> do not archive
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA
> 831-722-9141
> 831-750-0284 CL
> www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>
>
>
Message 17
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glastar.org
just search "glastar header tank" and you'll get a bunch of hits.
John J
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HEADER TANK
I have contacted Glasair aviation for more info on their system.
Is there a Glastar group on the internet or a site that may have info on the
fuel system ?
Thanks Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave@AirCraftersLLC.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 2:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HEADER TANK
>
> One of sthe best header tank systems I've seen in a high wing is like a
> GlaStar uses: tubular cans in each line below the wing root and above the
> fuel pump.
>
> do not archive
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA
> 831-722-9141
> 831-750-0284 CL
> www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips |
I waited until the wings were mounted. Set the flaps, then set the ailerons to
the flaps. Last align the wing tips to the ailerons and drill.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: "James Hein" <n8vim@arrl.net>
Sent: 5/20/07 2:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips
When you work on the fiberglass wingtips, how do you get it aligned
correctly so that the aft end of the tips are even with the ailerons
when everything is installed?
I can see where a slight misalignment would cause the aft end to vary
quite a bit.
How did you do it? Any other suggestions on how to do the wingtips would
be appreciated!
-Jim 40384 (Waiting out the monsoon to work on the tips outside the house)
As a side question: Why fiberglass? Why not injection molded plastic? It
would cost less and be more precise for non-structural parts... Hmmm.....?
Message 19
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I have been checking out this Motortopia site and it seems rather
interesting. They let you batch upload an unlimited amount of photos and is
is pretty easy. I haven't done much else with it but do like the photo
feature. I have uploaded most of my construction photos - we are prepping
for paint.
If you would like to see another library of construction photos check out my
'garage' at Motortopia.
Go here to signup:
HYPERLINK
"http://www.motortopia.com/signup/7ccb88460aca"http://www.motortopia.com/sig
nup/7ccb88460aca
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
do not archive
1:52 PM
Message 20
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| Subject: | Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips |
Jim,
My thoughts on this:
Before drilling the attach holes clamp the trailing edge of the wingtips to
the aileron using a long straight edge. This helped me to get the alignment
pretty close. I then still had to slit the trailing edges of the wingtips
and re-epoxy them while clamped in alignment. Mine were also too long and
had to be trimmed about 1/2". Contact me offline if you want to discuss
more.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 2:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips
When you work on the fiberglass wingtips, how do you get it aligned
correctly so that the aft end of the tips are even with the ailerons when
everything is installed?
I can see where a slight misalignment would cause the aft end to vary quite
a bit.
How did you do it? Any other suggestions on how to do the wingtips would be
appreciated!
-Jim 40384 (Waiting out the monsoon to work on the tips outside the house)
As a side question: Why fiberglass? Why not injection molded plastic? It
would cost less and be more precise for non-structural parts... Hmmm.....?
1:52 PM
1:52 PM
Message 21
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Below info from Gary, whom had a Custom made Crash resistant racecar
type fuel cell from below contacts......Don't know if size would be an
issue for a smaller header jpeg attached of his tank>>>
----- Original Message -----
From: Lamb, Gary
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 2:22 PM
Subject: RE: Aircar Fuel Tank...
ATL custom made the bladder per my drawings. David H. Dack
[Ddack@atlinc.com] is the person that I worked with at the time. Here
is the link to their website:
http://www.atlinc.com/US/home.html
Eagle Fuel Cells also quoted. Worked with Dan Grosskopf
[fuelcell@nnex.net] at the time.
http://www.eaglefuelcells.com/index.html
Both are perfectly capable of doing the work. I believe that I went
with ATL because they tended to be a little more responsive to me needs.
Hope that helps.
Gary
Message 22
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Dam John, I identified at leas a half dozen modifications I now have to
do. ;)
I especially like where you put the rear headset
jacks.<http://www.motortopia.com/files/6567/album_rv10_construction_panel/464d242d6aacb/IMG_0265JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg>
Larry Roesn
#356
John Testement RM wrote:
> I have been checking out this Motortopia site and it seems rather
> interesting. They let you batch upload an unlimited amount of photos
> and is is pretty easy. I haven't done much else with it but do like
> the photo feature. I have uploaded most of my construction photos - we
> are prepping for paint.
>
> If you would like to see another library of construction photos check
> out my 'garage' at Motortopia.
>
> Go here to signup:
> http://www.motortopia.com/signup/7ccb88460aca
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
> do not archive
>
> 1:52 PM
> *
>
>
> *
Message 23
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I don't want to discourage you too much, but let me throw out a
contrarian view of those jacks....
If you put a guy of my size in the back seats, my shoulders would be
smashing into the headset jacks, and I can see the possibility of
it being A) uncomfortable, or B) damaging to the headset cord/plug.
I had considered putting them there but decided that although that's
a convenient place, it's perhaps got it's flaws. There are a
few other good places though that give some good options.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> Dam John, I identified at leas a half dozen modifications I now have to
> do. ;)
>
> I especially like where you put the rear headset
> jacks.<http://www.motortopia.com/files/6567/album_rv10_construction_panel/464d242d6aacb/IMG_0265JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg>
>
>
> Larry Roesn
> #356
>
> John Testement RM wrote:
>> I have been checking out this Motortopia site and it seems rather
>> interesting. They let you batch upload an unlimited amount of photos
>> and is is pretty easy. I haven't done much else with it but do like
>> the photo feature. I have uploaded most of my construction photos - we
>> are prepping for paint.
>>
>> If you would like to see another library of construction photos check
>> out my 'garage' at Motortopia.
>>
>> Go here to signup:
>> http://www.motortopia.com/signup/7ccb88460aca
>>
>> John Testement
>> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>> 40321
>> Richmond, VA
>> Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
>> do not archive
>>
>> 1:52 PM
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips |
James Hein wrote:
>
> When you work on the fiberglass wingtips, how do you get it aligned
> correctly so that the aft end of the tips are even with the ailerons
> when everything is installed?
> I can see where a slight misalignment would cause the aft end to vary
> quite a bit.
> How did you do it? Any other suggestions on how to do the wingtips
> would be appreciated!
>
> -Jim 40384 (Waiting out the monsoon to work on the tips outside the
> house)
>
> As a side question: Why fiberglass? Why not injection molded plastic?
> It would cost less and be more precise for non-structural parts...
> Hmmm.....?
I'm just going to guess that the cost of a large mold for injection
molding would make the recovered cost per part too high. fiberglas
molds are terribly cheap to make.
Linn
do not archive
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips |
Can you use epoxy resin or another product to repair or modify plastic the
same as fiberglass? Can you finish and paint plastic as easy as fiberglass?
And is plastic affected by heat and cold differently than fiberglass? Just
wondering.
Dave Leikam
40496
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips
>
> James Hein wrote:
>
>>
>> When you work on the fiberglass wingtips, how do you get it aligned
>> correctly so that the aft end of the tips are even with the ailerons when
>> everything is installed?
>> I can see where a slight misalignment would cause the aft end to vary
>> quite a bit.
>> How did you do it? Any other suggestions on how to do the wingtips would
>> be appreciated!
>>
>> -Jim 40384 (Waiting out the monsoon to work on the tips outside the
>> house)
>>
>> As a side question: Why fiberglass? Why not injection molded plastic? It
>> would cost less and be more precise for non-structural parts...
>> Hmmm.....?
>
> I'm just going to guess that the cost of a large mold for injection
> molding would make the recovered cost per part too high. fiberglas molds
> are terribly cheap to make.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips |
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> Can you use epoxy resin or another product to repair or modify plastic
> the same as fiberglass?
Not really. Most of the aviation plastic is ABS. However, I've
successfully patched ABS plastic by disolving the plastic from a defunct
computer keyboard in MEK.
> Can you finish and paint plastic as easy as fiberglass?
Yes. You can find spray cans in most good hardware stores.
> And is plastic affected by heat and cold differently than fiberglass?
Oh yeah! The plasticiser in ABS will boil off over time and the plastic
will become brittle and crack. It will also deform with elevated
temps. Fiberglas typically doesn't get brittle with age and it'll
withstand much higher temps. Epoxy resins are significantly better
performing than the old polyester resin .... but they're also more
expensive.
Linn
do not archive
> Just wondering.
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "linn Walters"
> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 8:01 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aligning Fiberglass Wingtips
>
>
>> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> James Hein wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> When you work on the fiberglass wingtips, how do you get it aligned
>>> correctly so that the aft end of the tips are even with the ailerons
>>> when everything is installed?
>>> I can see where a slight misalignment would cause the aft end to
>>> vary quite a bit.
>>> How did you do it? Any other suggestions on how to do the wingtips
>>> would be appreciated!
>>>
>>> -Jim 40384 (Waiting out the monsoon to work on the tips outside the
>>> house)
>>>
>>> As a side question: Why fiberglass? Why not injection molded
>>> plastic? It would cost less and be more precise for non-structural
>>> parts... Hmmm.....?
>>
>>
>> I'm just going to guess that the cost of a large mold for injection
>> molding would make the recovered cost per part too high. fiberglas
>> molds are terribly cheap to make.
>> Linn
>> do not archive
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 27
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There are nice advantages to putting the jacks on the rear seat support.
I will gladly email them to anyone if you want offline. I think Tim
may be overstating his frame size..the rear seats are AMPLE even for lar
ge people....... and IF that is the case and your large passengers inter
fere with these jacks please double check your W&B and maybe put him/her
in the front seat. :) No right or wrong way to do it......YOU are t
he builder!
Dean 40449
Done painting
<html><P>There are nice advantages to putting the jacks on the rear seat
support. I will gladly email them to anyone if you want offl
ine. I think Tim may be overstating his frame size..the rear
seats are AMPLE even for large people....... and IF that is the ca
se and your large passengers interfere with these jacks please double ch
eck your W&B and maybe put him/her in the front seat. :)
No right or wrong way to do it......YOU are the builder!</P
>
<P>Dean 40449</P>
<P>Done painting</P>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Oil Cooling Update |
I have to give you all an update on my oil cooling. Tim pointed me to his site
where he did some work on sealing the engine baffles better as well as applying
RTV between the cylinders. Also, I was having my #1 and #2 cylinders going
over 400 during my climbs which others were not seeing.
I must admit, my first thought was, yea right, all that work will change it 1 degree.
When I installed my baffles I cut 1/2 of the baffle material away from
the #1 and #2 cylinder and they were still hot. About 2 weeks ago I removed
the whole thing and now my #1 and #2 cylinders are right in line with everything
else. This most likely reduced oil temps the most. My CHT's on #1 and #2
dropped around 30- 40 degrees by removing this section.
I also did some sealing around the front and back of the engine but I need to do
alot more. I haven't even put any RTV between the cylinders and I have flown
at gross to Bluff UT for the Red Bull races and just got back from some warm
flying in AZ this weekend and my CHT's never went above 390 and my oil temp maxed
at 210 when I was giving rides at Prescott (90 degree OAT). I have a long
way to go to increase the cooling and I must admit, the difference those little
changes made have amazed me. For now, I am not going to change anything other
than to continue to find holes and gaps where the air can leak out. I still
need to put the RTV between the cylinders but I have not stopped flying long
enough to allow it to dry properly, but should have time this week.
Even though it is getting warmer here, my engine is actually running cooler now.
Thanks Tim for the advice.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
Message 29
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Why not just share the advantages with the list? I could use the
education too, if there are benefits.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> There are nice advantages to putting the jacks on the rear seat
> support. I will gladly email them to anyone if you want offline. I
> think Tim may be overstating his frame size..the rear seats are AMPLE
> even for large people....... and IF that is the case and your large
> passengers interfere with these jacks please double check your W&B and
> maybe put him/her in the front seat. :) No right or wrong way to do
> it......YOU are the builder!
>
> Dean 40449
>
> Done painting
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | My panel is on its way.....the end is near |
I am about to hit my final major milestone to completion........my panel
has
been shipped from Stein. I have attached a picture that Stein sent me.
I am hoping to be able to get the airframe completed by the end of June
and
to the paint shop. Other than the airbox and a little baffling work,
nothing else needs to be completed.
Question, with the pictured panel, I am anticipating 6 10 hour work
sessions
to fit the panel, attach the glair shield to the airframe and set the
windshield. Is that enough time?
Rene'
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
Message 31
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| Subject: | Oil Cooling Update] |
Scott,
I'm glad that you're doing better with those temps now! Don't
feel too bad about not believing at first that it would help...I
would have adamantly argued that I had everything perfect when I
looked at mine too. There are still a couple things that have
really humbled me....one was quoting speeds when I hadn't actually
done an accurate and repeatable speed test to make sure that
my speeds were what I said they were. It's embarrassing to know
that I was off by almost 8kts. Then came the CHT's. I could ahve
sworn that my baffling was fantastic. Looking at it, it looked
really good. But, finding that thread on the air ramp as a
leakage spot was a real winner. That one thing along I think
dropped quite a bit of heat. The cylinder filing on those
fins I think is a great thing too. In the end, I am sure I
dropped mine probably an effective 20-35 degrees just from some
of the things I did. Made me feel like quite a heel for missing
them in the first place. I haven't yet totally removed my
front plates from in front of #1 and #2, but they're a ton
smaller than original, and I know for sure that it helped a lot.
As for current temps, I run hotter when running ROP, and Saturday
I did an X/C trip where I ran LOP one way and ROP the other.
The LOP part I had really low temps, but when doing the ROP
run I tried to warm it up. It was a warm day besides.
I climbed in the 95kt range, with lots of power, just to see
how hot I could get the cylinders. I managed 409F on my
hottest, after about 4-5,000' of climbing. Then I dropped the
nose to a more normal 115kts and my temps dropped pretty
rapidly under 400. Once I leveled out in ROP cruise, my
hottest cylinder was 375, with 2 cylinders being in the
360-375 range, and 2 real close to 350, and 2 that were
I think in the 340 range. Very comfortable that way, and it
was a warm day. Oil temps were under 180 on one leg, and
about 185 on the other. Even in that climb the oil temps
stayed right around 195-205.
Running LOP the cylinders really run much cooler. I'd bet
maybe 30-50F less. This year I plan to take the time to
actually use my EGView software from EGTrends and use their
GAMI tool to get my injectors better matched. The engine runs
nice, but I could do better, and Bart will swap injectors,
so it's worth the effort.
To all, before you go trying all the band-aids for heat
problems, do take the time to really look at your baffling
and all of the possibilities. It's OK to find out you
missed something, and what counts is that you took the time
to really explore it. There really should be no RV-10
flying that cannot have reasonable temps without lots of
mods. There are still some who may wish to do more, depending
on where they live, but there is nothing inherently
unacceptable with the cooling design. Yeah, it can probably
be improved in a few ways, for those who want to, but
by doing a good job you'll be rewarded with good results.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Cooling Update
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com>
I have to give you all an update on my oil cooling. Tim pointed me to
his site where he did some work on sealing the engine baffles better as
well as applying RTV between the cylinders. Also, I was having my #1
and #2 cylinders going over 400 during my climbs which others were not
seeing.
I must admit, my first thought was, yea right, all that work will change
it 1 degree. When I installed my baffles I cut 1/2 of the baffle
material away from the #1 and #2 cylinder and they were
still hot. About 2 weeks ago I removed the whole thing and now my #1
and #2 cylinders are right in line with everything else. This most
likely reduced oil temps the most. My CHT's on #1 and #2 dropped around
30- 40 degrees by removing this section.
I also did some sealing around the front and back of the engine but I
need to do alot more. I haven't even put any RTV between the cylinders
and I have flown at gross to Bluff UT for the Red Bull races and just
got back from some warm flying in AZ this weekend and my CHT's never
went above 390 and my oil temp maxed at 210 when I was giving rides at
Prescott (90 degree OAT). I have a long way to go to increase the
cooling and I must admit, the difference those little changes made have
amazed me. For now, I am not going to change anything other than to
continue to find holes and gaps where the air can leak out. I still
need to put the RTV between the cylinders but I have not stopped flying
long enough to allow it to dry properly, but should have time this week.
Even though it is getting warmer here, my engine is actually running
cooler now. Thanks Tim for the advice.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
*
*
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