Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:42 AM - Re: tank fitting sealer (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 02:57 AM - Re: Remove QB tanks to test? (Michael Wellenzohn)
3. 03:37 AM - Re: tank fitting sealer (Rob Kermanj)
4. 05:23 AM - Re: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque (MauleDriver)
5. 07:04 AM - Windshield (Cal Hoffman)
6. 07:25 AM - Re: Windshield (Deems Davis)
7. 09:44 AM - Re: ADI Pilot (Werner Schneider)
8. 09:51 AM - Re: Windshield (Dave Saylor)
9. 01:59 PM - Re: Bottom wing skin rivets (Robert Wright)
10. 03:56 PM - RV flyin BOONE, IA (ddddsp1@juno.com)
11. 04:16 PM - 'Splain it to me, Lucy - Riveting bottom fuse skins (Les Kearney)
12. 04:56 PM - Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right (AirMike)
13. 06:37 PM - Re: Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right (Dean Van Winkle)
14. 07:51 PM - Oil Cooler (John Ackerman)
15. 08:06 PM - Re: Oil Cooler (Tim Olson)
16. 08:35 PM - Imron paint prep question (Andy Marshall)
17. 08:51 PM - Re: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque (Bill Schlatterer)
18. 09:33 PM - Re: Oil Cooler (Marcus Cooper)
19. 10:12 PM - Re: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque (John W. Cox)
20. 10:16 PM - Re: Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right (John Gonzalez)
21. 10:32 PM - Re: Re: Wet Compass (Randy)
22. 11:32 PM - Re: 'Splain it to me, Lucy - Riveting bottom fuse skins (Jae Chang)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: tank fitting sealer |
DAve,
I used Proseal for the fuel sender but not on the screws. I did presure test it
and it works fine.
I still have a tiny leak somewhere but not at the fuel senders.
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118699#118699
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Remove QB tanks to test? |
Dave,
I removed one tank in order to install the stall warning. It isnt a big deal, however
be carful unscrewing the tank screws on the skin because the are quite
soft and I had to drill one out.
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118700#118700
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: tank fitting sealer |
I used proseal for the threads as well as the sender. I discarded
the gaskets.
do not archive.
On Jun 16, 2007, at 12:39 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
> What is everyone using to seal the threads of the fittings in the
> fuel tanks? Pro-seal? When sealing up the senders, do you smear
> the stuff on the gasket surfaces as well as the screws and flanges?
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
That really helps. Thanks for taking the time to scan.
Bill "still prepping for closing up the bottom wing skins" Watson
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
> Hope this sizes correctly. AN torque values at the bottom of attachment and
> also on page 9-19 of AC 43.
>
> ON page 7-8 and 7-9 of AC 43 (Acceptable Methods and Techniques) it gives
> the conversion formulas. Very easy to set up in a spreadsheet.
>
> Shows Crows foot wrench as a "Short Open End Adapter" on pat 7-8
>
> Crows foot wrenches from Sears and adjust for about 1 & 1/2 inch offset.
>
> Actually should have the conversion formulas in the instructions with your
> Torque Wrench.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Bill S
> 7a Ark
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
> Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 10:06 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
>
> --> <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
> A set of crows foot wrenches will enable you to do this.
> Dan
> N289DT RV10E E
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
> Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 5:32 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
>
>
> I recently bought a torque wrench for sockets. I don't see how it would
>
> work on a line fitting. Does this require a different type of torque
> wrench?
>
> JSMcGrew@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I think the torque values are listed in my copy of Standard Aircraft
>> Handbook for Mechanics and Technicians. I don't have access to it
>> right now so I can't tell you what it says.
>>
>> I used those values and ended up with some leaks so I tightened them
>> "Just tight enough that it won't leak" and then started the practice
>> of "Just snug it up and check for leaks". With further experience with
>>
>
>
>> a particularly annoying brake line leak, I found "tightening and
>> loosening the nut several times before torquing it helped to achieve a
>>
>
>
>> tight seal". So there is one more comment to add to the list.
>>
>> -Jim
>> 40134
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 5
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What is the proper technique for the bottom edge of the windshield:
taper it so that the edge sits flat against the forward fuse or leave it
at 90 deg to the windshield surface and let it fill in with fiberglas or
filler??
Cal Hoffman
40119 - obviously windshield install
do not archive
Change the world one loan at a time - visit Kiva.org to find out how
Message 6
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If you've got some precision machining equipment and skills, flat is
better, elsewise I think you'll end with a combination approach. i.e.
it's best if you can have a mated surface between the windscreen and the
upper fuse. However, for those, like me, who lack the
skills/patience/knowledge... fill in the blank.... it was necessary to
trowel in some flox to fill the voids.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC04378.html
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
Cal Hoffman wrote:
> What is the proper technique for the bottom edge of the windshield:
> taper it so that the edge sits flat against the forward fuse or leave
> it at 90 deg to the windshield surface and let it fill in with
> fiberglas or filler??
>
> Cal Hoffman
> 40119 - obviously windshield install
> *=============================
>
> *
Message 7
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Chris,
you're telling that the ADI flyes the horizontal but you still fly
manually the vertical right=?
br Werner
Chris Hukill wrote:
> I'll certainly be on the lookout for that inaccuracy, however I wonder
> if the fact my G430 is WAAS makes a difference in the accuracy. I've
> only flown 3 practice ILS (GPS overlay)approaches and both were
> exactly on centerline with a ten knot crosswind. I'll continue to
> experiment at different approaches (in VMC) until I know just how good
> it is, but for now I think the ADI coupled approaches are better than
> my hand flown raw data ILSs
> Chris Hukill
> do not archive
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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Just get it close to the fuselage. Don't bother tapering it. You can fill
it from the outside with micro to get a smooth transition. As long as it's
with in 1/8"-1/4" you'll be OK.
After the windshield is roughly fit you might want to mark the outline
against the fuse and paint inside. It's going to be hard to get in there
later.
I painted the margin about 1.5" around the bottom inside of the windshield
with rattlecan flat black before it went in too. Then after the micro
squeezed under the plastic a bit, I was able to hide it with flat black
applied with a long paintbrush.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cal Hoffman
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 7:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield
What is the proper technique for the bottom edge of the windshield: taper it
so that the edge sits flat against the forward fuse or leave it at 90 deg to
the windshield surface and let it fill in with fiberglas or filler??
Cal Hoffman
40119 - obviously windshield install
do not archive
Change the world one loan at a time - visit Kiva.org to find out how
Message 9
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| Subject: | Bottom wing skin rivets |
Just don't do it by yourself. Beware the dings and dents unless you have help.
Rob wright
-----Original Message-----
From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Sent: 6/15/07 1:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bottom wing skin rivets
I finished my bottom skins last week... after living in fear of it
for a few weeks, found in much easier than I expected. Took about 10
hours for the first one and a little under 7 for the 2nd.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Do Not Archive
On Jun 14, 2007, at 8:09 PM, ddnebert wrote:
>
> I am finishing up the wings on my slow-build -10 wing kit. The
> instructions for riveting on the bottom skins seem like it will be
> awkward, difficult to buck, even harder to check, and ultimately of
> questionable quality. Vans recommends the solid rivets for most of
> the skins (though the RV-12 uses mostly blind rivets) but suggested
> that the MK-139-BS style blind rivets would be comparable.
>
> Does anyone see any harm in using these flush blind rivets on the
> bottom skins of the RV-10 wings? Aside from the cost ($80) it seems
> to me a better quality and easier solution than the bucked rivets.
>
> --------
> RV-10 Builder #40546
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118534#118534
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV flyin BOONE, IA |
Just a brief note on the RV flyin at Boone, IA today. I left KAUH at 7
AM with a fellow builder for KPMV to pick up Bruce Bluhm and Bob
Condrey (a full plane). We arrived at KBNW at 9:00AM and got a FRONT
row seat for the ONLY RV-10 at the show. All you other guys were
either in Canada, Niagra Falls, (TIM O) or too busy. Anyway, Adrian
Moses lead a forum on the RV 10 with BOB C. doing a talk on the kit and
options. It was a great day........little warm and muggy but that is
IOWA. We left at 12:05 and were home in GI, NE at 2 pm. I am now
meeting several fliers at KEAR at 6:30pm for Dinner then we will fly
home. I flew 1 hr 45 min to Boone and burned 22.5 gals. I flew 2
hours going home and burned 25.6 Gals. I love this plane. Gotta go
TO for KEAR.
Dean Sombke
N805HL
_____________________________________________________________
Click to find local singles for dating, romance and fun
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/CAaCX09ymrVmb129rHgC8UuZaPB9jv1V/
Message 11
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| Subject: | 'Splain it to me, Lucy - Riveting bottom fuse skins |
Hi
I am working on the bottom fuse skins which use all flush rivets. However,
on page 2607, step 3 the holes that match the tabs on the F1034a & F1005a
are not to be dimpled. The plans don't say that these holes are to be
counter sunk which seem to be the only alternative.
Am I missing something? Is this a test? Have I passed?
Cheers
Les
Lost in the fuse
#40643
Message 12
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| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right |
I am trying to install my rudder pedels WD1006R/L and find that the F1039A Rudder
pedal bearing blocks fit very tight restricting the movement of the pedals
which I feel should move quite freely. I have tried to work the uncoated ends
of the pedels down with a die grinder and some rubbing compound, but have not
been sucessful in getting them loose so that the pedals float freely as they hang.
I am very reluctant to try gringing into the delrin/nylon blocks as I am
afraid of leaving abrasive material behind that would make the tighness even worse.
Please give me some suggestions
See you in OSH - hope to meet some of the folks on the list
[/b]
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118776#118776
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right |
Mike
I found the same problem in my RV-9A. I finally used a sharp utility knife
to carefully shave out a little excess material in the blocks to slightly
increase the hole diameter.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fus/Finish/FWF
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 6:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right
>
> I am trying to install my rudder pedels WD1006R/L and find that the F1039A
> Rudder pedal bearing blocks fit very tight restricting the movement of the
> pedals which I feel should move quite freely. I have tried to work the
> uncoated ends of the pedels down with a die grinder and some rubbing
> compound, but have not been sucessful in getting them loose so that the
> pedals float freely as they hang. I am very reluctant to try gringing into
> the delrin/nylon blocks as I am afraid of leaving abrasive material behind
> that would make the tighness even worse.
>
> Please give me some suggestions
>
> See you in OSH - hope to meet some of the folks on the list
> [/b]
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118776#118776
>
>
>
--
Message 14
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For those of us who fly where it's goshawful hot, (Phoenix area) it
seems to make good sense to install a high-capacity oil cooler. I'd
certainly like to have enough capacity that the vernitherm nearly
always controls the oil temperature.
This point of view is supported by a highly respected engine builder,
and by Vans tech support.
Here are some options that I'm aware of:
1. Replace the Niagara 20006A that Vans supplies with a higher
capacity unit of the same dimensions, such as the Stewart Warner
10611R, which transfers _very_ roughly 20% more heat, I'm told.
2. Put in a larger (17-row) cooler such as (in order of increasing
capacity) Niagara 20010A, Aero Classics 800216 or 800356, or Stewart
Warner 10614R.
3. Increase the airflow somehow, such as by incorporating vents or
louvers in the lower cowl.
I'd love to put in a SW 10164 (R, I think) but it's about 1.5"
longer that the stock unit. Just holding the engine mount up to the
firewall, it looks to me like there would be inadequate clearance,
because that 1.5" has to come at the bottom - the starter solenoid
and associated structure prevent moving it up.
Has anyone put in a larger cooler? If so, what are your
observations? What experiences do those who are already flying have?
I don't pretend to be expert on oil coolers - the above differences
are based only on what I've been told by what I believe to be
reliable folks, and on the Stewart Warner data sheets on the web.
John Ackerman 40458 finishing kit
do not archive - just archive the answers, please!
Message 15
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If you go with increased cooling, add some method of controlling
that added cooling. On the trip I'm currently on, I had some time
on a leg that I couldn't get my oil temps over 171, which is a
little on the low side. Std. cowl and filter.
Tim
>
> For those of us who fly where it's goshawful hot, (Phoenix area) it
> seems to make good sense to install a high-capacity oil cooler. I'd
> certainly like to have enough capacity that the vernitherm nearly
> always controls the oil temperature.
> This point of view is supported by a highly respected engine builder,
> and by Vans tech support.
>
> Here are some options that I'm aware of:
>
> 1. Replace the Niagara 20006A that Vans supplies with a higher
> capacity unit of the same dimensions, such as the Stewart Warner
> 10611R, which transfers _very_ roughly 20% more heat, I'm told.
>
> 2. Put in a larger (17-row) cooler such as (in order of increasing
> capacity) Niagara 20010A, Aero Classics 800216 or 800356, or Stewart
> Warner 10614R.
>
> 3. Increase the airflow somehow, such as by incorporating vents or
> louvers in the lower cowl.
>
> I'd love to put in a SW 10164 (R, I think) but it's about 1.5"
> longer that the stock unit. Just holding the engine mount up to the
> firewall, it looks to me like there would be inadequate clearance,
> because that 1.5" has to come at the bottom - the starter solenoid
> and associated structure prevent moving it up.
>
> Has anyone put in a larger cooler? If so, what are your
> observations? What experiences do those who are already flying have?
>
> I don't pretend to be expert on oil coolers - the above differences
> are based only on what I've been told by what I believe to be
> reliable folks, and on the Stewart Warner data sheets on the web.
>
> John Ackerman 40458 finishing kit
> do not archive - just archive the answers, please!
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Imron paint prep question |
Hello,
My sister, the artist, has been asked to paint on top of Imron, and wants
to know:
1. Sand the imron surface or use a chemical etch.
2. Compatible surface paint (will "one shot" or lettering enamel work).
3. What topcoat should be used.
To give you an idea of the artwork she does, feel free to check out
www.tourdefarms.com
Thanks all for your help,
Andy Marshall
National Instruments
319 443 3950 (sent from Blackberry)
Message 17
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| Subject: | brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
I just noticed on the scan that I had highlighted the fine and coarse thread
torque tables and the highlight covered up the fine and coarse headings.
Fine thread torque values at the top, coarse in the middle, there is a big
difference. The AN tubing torque values are on the bottom.
Glad it helped but the best thing to do is get a copy of the AC 43. It's
cheap from Avery or Spruce.
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 7:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
That really helps. Thanks for taking the time to scan.
Bill "still prepping for closing up the bottom wing skins" Watson
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
> Hope this sizes correctly. AN torque values at the bottom of
> attachment and also on page 9-19 of AC 43.
>
> ON page 7-8 and 7-9 of AC 43 (Acceptable Methods and Techniques) it
> gives the conversion formulas. Very easy to set up in a spreadsheet.
>
> Shows Crows foot wrench as a "Short Open End Adapter" on pat 7-8
>
> Crows foot wrenches from Sears and adjust for about 1 & 1/2 inch offset.
>
> Actually should have the conversion formulas in the instructions with
> your Torque Wrench.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Bill S
> 7a Ark
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
> Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 10:06 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
>
> --> <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
> A set of crows foot wrenches will enable you to do this.
> Dan
> N289DT RV10E E
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
> Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 5:32 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
>
>
> I recently bought a torque wrench for sockets. I don't see how it
> would
>
> work on a line fitting. Does this require a different type of torque
> wrench?
>
> JSMcGrew@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I think the torque values are listed in my copy of Standard Aircraft
>> Handbook for Mechanics and Technicians. I don't have access to it
>> right now so I can't tell you what it says.
>>
>> I used those values and ended up with some leaks so I tightened them
>> "Just tight enough that it won't leak" and then started the practice
>> of "Just snug it up and check for leaks". With further experience
>> with
>>
>
>
>> a particularly annoying brake line leak, I found "tightening and
>> loosening the nut several times before torquing it helped to achieve
>> a
>>
>
>
>> tight seal". So there is one more comment to add to the list.
>>
>> -Jim
>> 40134
>>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>
Message 18
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John,
For what it's worth, I've been flying mine on some pretty hot days in
Georgia and Mississippi with no issues on oil temperature with the standard
system on almost 100 degree days. I realize it does get hotter in Phoenix,
I built a Q-2 there glassing the inside of the tailcone on the driveway the
day it hit 122 degrees (probably more sweat than resin in those layups).
Anyway, if you don't get a response from someone with experience with a
higher flow system, I'd recommend giving the standard a shot and see how it
goes. One advantage of that area is it seems to cool off more rapidly as
you climb (dry heat I guess), so if you don't cruise low altitude that may
help the issue as well.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 9:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Cooler
For those of us who fly where it's goshawful hot, (Phoenix area) it
seems to make good sense to install a high-capacity oil cooler. I'd
certainly like to have enough capacity that the vernitherm nearly
always controls the oil temperature.
This point of view is supported by a highly respected engine builder,
and by Vans tech support.
Here are some options that I'm aware of:
1. Replace the Niagara 20006A that Vans supplies with a higher
capacity unit of the same dimensions, such as the Stewart Warner
10611R, which transfers _very_ roughly 20% more heat, I'm told.
2. Put in a larger (17-row) cooler such as (in order of increasing
capacity) Niagara 20010A, Aero Classics 800216 or 800356, or Stewart
Warner 10614R.
3. Increase the airflow somehow, such as by incorporating vents or
louvers in the lower cowl.
I'd love to put in a SW 10164 (R, I think) but it's about 1.5"
longer that the stock unit. Just holding the engine mount up to the
firewall, it looks to me like there would be inadequate clearance,
because that 1.5" has to come at the bottom - the starter solenoid
and associated structure prevent moving it up.
Has anyone put in a larger cooler? If so, what are your
observations? What experiences do those who are already flying have?
I don't pretend to be expert on oil coolers - the above differences
are based only on what I've been told by what I believe to be
reliable folks, and on the Stewart Warner data sheets on the web.
John Ackerman 40458 finishing kit
do not archive - just archive the answers, please!
Message 19
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| Subject: | brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
The needed pages are Pages 7-6 through 7-12 and 9-19 specifically for
torques on brake and fuel tubing. I have PDFed the needed pages but for
the benefit of the string and tin-can group it is 4.9MB. So, Send me a
request (offline) and I will forward the passage to those with
high-speed bandwidth and open attachment capability.
If you have a spring adjustable torque wrench don't forget to release
the pressure after using the tool... it helps calibration.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 8:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
<billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
I just noticed on the scan that I had highlighted the fine and coarse
thread
torque tables and the highlight covered up the fine and coarse headings.
Fine thread torque values at the top, coarse in the middle, there is a
big
difference. The AN tubing torque values are on the bottom.
Glad it helped but the best thing to do is get a copy of the AC 43.
It's
cheap from Avery or Spruce.
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 7:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
That really helps. Thanks for taking the time to scan.
Bill "still prepping for closing up the bottom wing skins" Watson
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
> Hope this sizes correctly. AN torque values at the bottom of
> attachment and also on page 9-19 of AC 43.
>
> ON page 7-8 and 7-9 of AC 43 (Acceptable Methods and Techniques) it
> gives the conversion formulas. Very easy to set up in a spreadsheet.
>
> Shows Crows foot wrench as a "Short Open End Adapter" on pat 7-8
>
> Crows foot wrenches from Sears and adjust for about 1 & 1/2 inch
offset.
>
> Actually should have the conversion formulas in the instructions with
> your Torque Wrench.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Bill S
> 7a Ark
>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right |
Bevel the edges of the hole on the bearing blocks and then coat the metal
and the block with BoeLube or Vasoline.
JOhn G.
>From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right
>Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2007 16:55:07 -0700
>
>
>I am trying to install my rudder pedels WD1006R/L and find that the F1039A
>Rudder pedal bearing blocks fit very tight restricting the movement of the
>pedals which I feel should move quite freely. I have tried to work the
>uncoated ends of the pedels down with a die grinder and some rubbing
>compound, but have not been sucessful in getting them loose so that the
>pedals float freely as they hang. I am very reluctant to try gringing into
>the delrin/nylon blocks as I am afraid of leaving abrasive material behind
>that would make the tighness even worse.
>
>Please give me some suggestions
>
>See you in OSH - hope to meet some of the folks on the list
>[/b]
>
>--------
>OSH '08 or Bust
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118776#118776
>
>
Message 21
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If your like me and don't wan't any more permanent
clutter on you dash or panel, just make provision for a quick disconnect
dash mounted compass. And keep the compass close at hand for emergency
installs. Is there a far anywhere that says this is not acceptable ?
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 1:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Wet Compass
>
> Dan,
> I actually think I started this discussion as my panel will have dual
> independent EFIS and three sets of batteries. Why would I need a wet
> compass? Seems from my reading of the discussion the DAR has final say on
> certification but the FAR seems to require one. I figure I will put one in
> (my only round instrument on the panel) and live it and call it my Back Up
> to the third power. No reason to give an insurance company a reason to
> deny a claim.
>
> William
> Speaking of balloons & rockets (part 101) and ultralights, I was flying my
> usual commute today (SBP-BUR-SBP) and came across a large bouquet of
> balloons at 6,200'. Another one at 6,800' and one more on my return trip
> at 4,000. Seems graduation is in full swing.
>
> Robin
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 1:20 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Wet Compass
>
>
> I think it was my post to blame for getting this started. The reason I
> mentioned the question about applicability is that the FAR section on
> instruments (91.205) is entitled:
>
> "Powered civil aircraft with **standard category US airworthiness
> certificates**: [emphasis added] Instrument and equipment requirements."
>
> You be the judge, pay your money and take your chances with the DAR...
>
> -Dan Masys
> #40448
>
> ---- William Curtis <wcurtis@nerv10.com> wrote:
>>
>> FAR Part 91 -General operating and Flight rules; this deals with
>> operation of personal aircraft in the airspace system and since there is
>> no "experimental" airspace, I'm not sure how it would NOT apply to
>> experimentals. I have to read the article to see what his take on it is.
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 'Splain it to me, Lucy - Riveting bottom fuse skins |
Les... all the holes in the "aft center section bulkhead assembly"
(F-1005A) should already be countersunk. yes on the tab holes in f-1034a
because of the thickness of the materials, a dimple won't be as nice.
Be sure to check
http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/RV10_Airframe_Construction_Gotchas
for a few other footnotes. In fact, you could add this to Section 26 as
well. i am just a bit ahead of you, buried in deburring parts in Section 28.
Jae
40533
do not archive
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am working on the bottom fuse skins which use all flush rivets.
> However, on page 2607, step 3 the holes that match the tabs on the
> F1034a & F1005a are not to be dimpled. The plans dont say that these
> holes are to be counter sunk which seem to be the only alternative.
>
> Am I missing something? Is this a test? Have I passed?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> Lost in the fuse
>
> #40643
>
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