---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 06/17/07: 10 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:13 AM - Re: Oil Cooler (Mark Ritter) 2. 05:33 AM - Re: Re: Wet Compass (Kelly McMullen) 3. 10:03 AM - Nose Fork Assembly Belleville Washer K2750-O-219 (Larry Rosen) 4. 10:47 AM - Re: Bottom wing skin rivets (ddnebert) 5. 06:06 PM - Duckworks lenses cracking (Ralph E. Capen) 6. 07:10 PM - Firewall Forward (David McNeill) 7. 07:18 PM - Re: Duckworks lenses cracking (Tim Olson) 8. 07:41 PM - Sanding (Albert Gardner) 9. 08:07 PM - Re: Duckworks lenses cracking (Ralph E. Capen) 10. 10:19 PM - wing spar attach hardware (Ben Westfall) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:52 AM PST US From: "Mark Ritter" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Cooler John, My oil temp came down from 215 to 200 after 50 hours using a Van issue oil cooler. After adding louvers on the bottom cowl the temp is now running 185 on hot Texas days. Mark >From: "Marcus Cooper" >To: >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Cooler >Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2007 23:32:27 -0500 > > >John, > For what it's worth, I've been flying mine on some pretty hot days in >Georgia and Mississippi with no issues on oil temperature with the standard >system on almost 100 degree days. I realize it does get hotter in Phoenix, >I built a Q-2 there glassing the inside of the tailcone on the driveway the >day it hit 122 degrees (probably more sweat than resin in those layups). >Anyway, if you don't get a response from someone with experience with a >higher flow system, I'd recommend giving the standard a shot and see how it >goes. One advantage of that area is it seems to cool off more rapidly as >you climb (dry heat I guess), so if you don't cruise low altitude that may >help the issue as well. > >Marcus > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman >Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 9:51 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Oil Cooler > > >For those of us who fly where it's goshawful hot, (Phoenix area) it >seems to make good sense to install a high-capacity oil cooler. I'd >certainly like to have enough capacity that the vernitherm nearly >always controls the oil temperature. >This point of view is supported by a highly respected engine builder, >and by Vans tech support. > >Here are some options that I'm aware of: > >1. Replace the Niagara 20006A that Vans supplies with a higher >capacity unit of the same dimensions, such as the Stewart Warner >10611R, which transfers _very_ roughly 20% more heat, I'm told. > >2. Put in a larger (17-row) cooler such as (in order of increasing >capacity) Niagara 20010A, Aero Classics 800216 or 800356, or Stewart >Warner 10614R. > >3. Increase the airflow somehow, such as by incorporating vents or >louvers in the lower cowl. > >I'd love to put in a SW 10164 (R, I think) but it's about 1.5" >longer that the stock unit. Just holding the engine mount up to the >firewall, it looks to me like there would be inadequate clearance, >because that 1.5" has to come at the bottom - the starter solenoid >and associated structure prevent moving it up. > >Has anyone put in a larger cooler? If so, what are your >observations? What experiences do those who are already flying have? > >I don't pretend to be expert on oil coolers - the above differences >are based only on what I've been told by what I believe to be >reliable folks, and on the Stewart Warner data sheets on the web. > >John Ackerman 40458 finishing kit >do not archive - just archive the answers, please! > > _________________________________________________________________ Who's that on the Red Carpet? Play & win glamorous prizes. http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=REDCARPET_hotmailtextlink3 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:33:57 AM PST US From: "Kelly McMullen" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wet Compass If a compass isn't permanently mounted, I know of no way it can be properly "swung" or calibrated. There is no way a temporary mount compass will have any know degree of accuracy. Of course if you don't intend to have a proper aviation compass and choose to assume your electronics will always function correctly, I guess you can pretend to comply with 91.205. With all the choices available for mounting, in panel, on top of panel, on center post, etc. I don't quite understand the extreme aversion to meeting the basic instrument requirements. The B707 (IIRC) had an elegant arrangement with the compass on a swivel mount, folding under the glare shield when not needed, pivoting out to top center of the glare shield when desired. On 6/16/07, Randy wrote: > > If your like me and don't wan't any more permanent > clutter on you dash or panel, just make provision for a quick disconnect > dash mounted compass. And keep the compass close at hand for emergency > installs. Is there a far anywhere that says this is not acceptable ? > > Randy > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Robin Marks" > To: > Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 1:18 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Wet Compass > > > > > > Dan, > > I actually think I started this discussion as my panel will have dual > > independent EFIS and three sets of batteries. Why would I need a wet > > compass? Seems from my reading of the discussion the DAR has final say on > > certification but the FAR seems to require one. I figure I will put one in > > (my only round instrument on the panel) and live it and call it my Back Up > > to the third power. No reason to give an insurance company a reason to > > deny a claim. > > > > William > > Speaking of balloons & rockets (part 101) and ultralights, I was flying my > > usual commute today (SBP-BUR-SBP) and came across a large bouquet of > > balloons at 6,200'. Another one at 6,800' and one more on my return trip > > at 4,000. Seems graduation is in full swing. > > > > Robin > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys > > Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 1:20 PM > > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Wet Compass > > > > > > I think it was my post to blame for getting this started. The reason I > > mentioned the question about applicability is that the FAR section on > > instruments (91.205) is entitled: > > > > "Powered civil aircraft with **standard category US airworthiness > > certificates**: [emphasis added] Instrument and equipment requirements." > > > > You be the judge, pay your money and take your chances with the DAR... > > > > -Dan Masys > > #40448 > > > > ---- William Curtis wrote: > >> > >> FAR Part 91 -General operating and Flight rules; this deals with > >> operation of personal aircraft in the airspace system and since there is > >> no "experimental" airspace, I'm not sure how it would NOT apply to > >> experimentals. I have to read the article to see what his take on it is. > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 10:03:31 AM PST US From: Larry Rosen Subject: RV10-List: Nose Fork Assembly Belleville Washer K2750-O-219 The Belleville "cupped" Washer K2750-O-219 for the front fork assembly is steel. I just took it out of the bag and there is some light rust on the washers. Nothing that can not be lightly buffed off. Have those before me primed these washers to prevent them from rusting in the future? (Page 46-06 in the plans) -- Larry Rosen RV-10 #356 http://lrosen.nerv10.com ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:47:46 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Bottom wing skin rivets From: "ddnebert" I'll take that advice. The rivets always turn out nicer with a bucker and a shooter. -------- RV-10 Builder #40546 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118936#118936 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:06:03 PM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking Lighting question.... I installed my lights according to instructions - strapping tape, 75 degrees, and all... The lenses were intact through the entire manufacturing process. I put them in fine. Today I was working on the wingtips and needed to remove the light assemblies and found that every screwhole had cracks. Anyone else have this issue? I'm kinda bummed - knowing that subsequent installations will be more difficult and won't be as tight. At a minimum, I need to order a new set of lenses...but I think I need some building advice when it comes to these things...... Thanks, Ralph Capen ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:10:13 PM PST US From: "David McNeill" Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Forward Don't be surprised if the AN823-8D and AN822-8D do not turn into the oil cooler. Mine turned about 3/4 turn. The tool you need is #91395 from Harbor Freight ($10-20). The set contains a 3/8"-18 NPT tap. Hold the oil cooler in a vise by the flange and tap up into the hole. Use thick grease on the tap so that any shavings are trapped in the grease at the flutes. Tap slowly 1/2 forward, then 1/4 back then 1/2 forward again. When satisfied with the depth of the tap clean the oil cooler threads with cotton buds dipped in acetone. When finished then rinse the oil cooler internally with mineral spirits. Fuel lube the AN parts and mount. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:18:21 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking You sound like you didn't really install them the way the new RV-10 Duckworks kits are made. With the new ones, there are no screw holes in the lenses at all, only in the retaining brackets. Give Don a call and verify you have what you really need and he'll help get you on the right track. There are no holes drilled in any of the lenses. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > Lighting question.... > > I installed my lights according to instructions - strapping tape, 75 > degrees, and all... > > The lenses were intact through the entire manufacturing process. I put > them in fine. > Today I was working on the wingtips and needed to remove the light > assemblies and found that every screwhole had cracks. > > Anyone else have this issue? > > I'm kinda bummed - knowing that subsequent installations will be more > difficult and won't be as tight. > > At a minimum, I need to order a new set of lenses...but I think I need > some building advice when it comes to these things...... > > Thanks, > Ralph Capen > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:41:21 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RV10-List: Sanding I may have discovered something useful today. As I was sanding on my cowl trying to get the area around the air inlets nice and smooth I kept wishing I had a nice thin and flexible sanding pad. I am using the 3" wide sticky-backed rolls of sandpaper so I cut of a 6" long piece and put about 3 or 4 layers of duct tape on the back. Makes a very nice sanding pad. For some time I have been sticking a short length of the sticky-back sandpaper to various shapes and sizes of wood scraps but this is my most recent brain storm. Probably I'm not the only one to discover this but it's still a good idea. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:07:58 PM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking The older ones are supposed to be drilled through.....on the 6's anyway... Now I know there's a better way - maybe a retrofit too..... I'll give Don a call... Thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 10:17 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking > > You sound like you didn't really install them the way the new RV-10 > Duckworks kits are made. With the new ones, there are no screw holes > in the lenses at all, only in the retaining brackets. Give Don a > call and verify you have what you really need and he'll help get you > on the right track. There are no holes drilled in any of the lenses. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > do not archive > > > Ralph E. Capen wrote: >> >> Lighting question.... >> >> I installed my lights according to instructions - strapping tape, 75 >> degrees, and all... >> >> The lenses were intact through the entire manufacturing process. I put >> them in fine. >> Today I was working on the wingtips and needed to remove the light >> assemblies and found that every screwhole had cracks. >> >> Anyone else have this issue? >> >> I'm kinda bummed - knowing that subsequent installations will be more >> difficult and won't be as tight. >> >> At a minimum, I need to order a new set of lenses...but I think I need >> some building advice when it comes to these things...... >> >> Thanks, >> Ralph Capen >> > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:19:26 PM PST US From: "Ben Westfall" Subject: RV10-List: wing spar attach hardware I know this has been talked about before but I could not find much in the =93not so=94 archives. I am on Sec 28 and it is time to mount the forward fuse section to the mid fuse section. The plans don=92t say much about the bolts but from the looks of it we are supposed to use the actual bolts that attach the wings. I went and bought some alternate =BC - 5=94 lag bolts but I cannot find any 9/16=92s bolts at the usual lowe=92s, depot, ace places. I am also somewhat hesitant to use the =BC bolts that I bought cause they will not go through without force. Plus the machining on them is nothing like the mil spec ones. I wonder if it would just be a better idea to buy another set from Van=92s? I imagine they aren=92t cheap though (no shipping for me they are 20 minuets away). What does Van=92s do with the quickbuild fuse kits? Is your attach hardware in them when they come? Do the bolts get marred up at all when you install them? I would appreciate any advice and/or what I did=92s. Ben Westfall PDX #40579 ' Fuse Geez this thing is getting BIG in a hurry!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.